How to Remove Screed and Bitumen from Stone Floors

The owner of this Flagstone floor at a property in Carnforth was told by a damp specialist to remove the carpet and underlay and have the floor taken out and skipped. Then to install new hardcore and concrete put in place but with a Damp Proof Membrane installed in between, then once fully cured (four weeks at least) they could have a new carpet, tile or wood floor etc. installed. All good advice, however, the owner of the house wanted to keep as many original features as possible and wasn’t keen on the proposal.

Looking for an alternative solution they reached out to Tile Doctor and so I went over to take a look. After surveying the floor, I came up with a completely different solution which involved milling the stone with coarse abrasive pads to remove the screed and bitumen and then resurface with diamond encrusted burnishing pads of medium and fine grits which would result in a smooth finish. Not only would this be much easier to clean going forward it would also be much more attractive, especially once sealed.

 

Happy with our alternative we arranged a date to come and do the work which would take three days, two days to prepare the floor and a third to apply a sealer.

Cleaning a Flagstone Tiled Ground Floor

Milling a floor is arduous work and requires the use of a heavy rotary machine that can apply weight onto the stone so the milling pads can really get a bite into the surface. Because of this I roped in a colleague to help take some of the strain. Some of the areas of bitumen and screed were so prominent we used an SDS hammer action drill with a flat bit to chisel them off first, this can leave a few marks in the stone which we then level out with the milling pads starting with a 50 grit and go all the way up to a 400 grit.

We used a lot of water during this process to help lubricate the abrasive action of the milling pads, this also helps to rinse off the soil that is created, all of which is extracted with a wet vacuum.

Next step is to give the floor an acid rinse with Tile Doctor Grout Clean-Up which is designed to neutralise any alkaline salts in the stone that could result in efflorescence later.

With the floor cleaned up the last step was to re-point between the Flagstones using a breathable pointing product called GFtK 800.

 

Sealing a Flagstone Tiled Ground Floor

Sealing was the next step however the floor was still quite damp after the initial renovation, so it was left for a few days to dry out first.

We selected a fully breathable sealer for this floor, this is an important requirement for a floor with no damp proof membrane as it will allow moisture to rise through the flagstone and evaporate at the surface. The concrete screed and bitumen covering will have prevented this previously which is dangerous as a build up of moisture in the stone can lead to it crumbling and you risk moisture reaching out to the walls where it can lead to rising damp. 

Tile Doctor has three breathable sealers to choose from and in this case the customer decided to go with Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is an impregnating sealer that protects from within and enhances the natural colours in the stone.

  The floor was completely transformed by the end of the third day, you would not have known it was the same floor. It was now clear of all the previous coverings and now looked like a characterful old Flagstone floor should.

Before leaving I recommended, they use Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner for everyday cleaning, being pH neutral it won’t prematurely erode the sealer allowing it to work for longer. I also advised that it’s possible that parts of the stone may go a shade darker in winter and a shade lighter in summer due to the moisture rising through the floor.

Source: Stone Floor Restoration Service in Lancashire

How to Clean Natural Stone Tiles in a Shower

 The exceptional colors and distinct textures of natural stone tiles add elegance to shower surfaces. Varying mineral compositions cause stone tile colors to range from vibrant shades to earthy hues. While stone tiles are durable, they are extremely porous and can accumulate soap scum and dirt particles. Frequent cleaning of natural stone tiles maintains their appearance and prevents damages from abrasive grime. Certain cleaning solutions protect natural stone tiles and allow them to last longer.

Things You’ll Need

• Plastic bucket
• 1 gallon water
• 1/2 cup household ammonia
• Soft cloth
• Soft sponge
• Neutral stone soap cleaner
• Soft-bristled brush
• Terry cloth towel

Instructions

1. Fill a plastic bucket with 1 gallon of water. Add 1/2 cup of household ammonia to the water. Mix the solution thoroughly.
2. Dampen a soft cloth in the ammonia solution. Wipe the cloth over any soap scum and mineral deposits. Rinse the tiles thoroughly with water.
3. Dampen a soft sponge with warm water. Apply a few drops of neutral stone soap cleaner to the sponge. Follow the manufacturer’s directions on the product label.
4. Wipe the sponge over the tiles to remove loose dirt and debris. Gently scrub grout lines with a soft-bristled brush to remove accumulated grime.
5. Rinse the tiles thoroughly with water. Dry the tiles with a terry cloth towel.

Tips & Warnings

• You can substitute a non-acidic soap scum remover for the ammonia solution.
• You can substitute mild liquid dishwashing soap for the neutral stone soap cleaner.
• Never clean natural stone tiles with lemon juice, vinegar or other acid-based cleaners that can erode and discolor grout joints.
• Never use abrasive products or scouring powders on natural stone tiles; the tiles can become scratched.

Source: www.Hunker.com

How to Renovate a Quarry Tiled by Northamptonshire Tile Doctor

The following photos are of a Quarry tiled dining room floor in a period cottage located in the small village of Bozeat. My customer had removed a carpet and discovered them underneath, as you can see from the photographs however the tiles were in a poor state of repair. Undaunted the owner wanted to restore them as a lovely period feature and contacted Tile Doctor.

 

I went over to survey the Quarry tiles and could see the floor had not faired well under the carpet over the years, several tiles were cracked and 40 to 50 tiles were loose and would needed resetting to stop them moving underfoot, especially in the high traffic areas. I discussed with them that Tile Doctor could repair the floor and clean it and would be able to restore in a few days. They were happy to go ahead with my quote and we arranged a mutually convenient time to carry the work out.

Cleaning and repairing a Quarry Tiled Hallway Floor

My first course of action was to deep clean the floors using Tile Doctor Oxy-Gel which is an alkaline cleaner. Working in small areas the Gel was worked in using a stiff brush on a rotary machine using a little water. As this process was completed in each area, I rinsed off the resulting slurry away with water and then extracted using a wet vacuum. The initial clean removed most of the black staining and paint spots which had occurred over the years, but more work was needed.

The next step was to apply Tile Doctor Grout Clean-Up to further clean up the tiles and tackle the cement residue and other staining. I used a repeat of the cleaning process and rinsed twice with plain water to ensure all traces of product were removed. The next step was to tackle the broken and loose tiles however it was now the end of day one, so after assessing the floor for all repairs required, I installed a portable dryer to aid drying and left for the day.

 

The next day I returned to begin repairs starting by lifting all the loose tiles, working in one square metre sections at a time. Fortunately, my customer had already managed to obtain reclaimed tiles from a reclamation yard so that saved me a job. The colours matched with the originals; however, the reclaimed tiles were slightly larger than the originals and needed to be cut into shape as required. Working methodically, I re-laid the tiles on a fresh bed of screed and grouted them in to match the original floor as best possible.

 

After the repairs were completed I allowed the floor to fully dry for four days, I needed the tiles dry and the newly laid adhesive and grout to set and bed in before the next step. Before leaving I gave my customer strict instructions not to walk over these areas whilst I was gone.

Sealing a Quarry Tiled Hallway Floor

Returning later the following week, I first checked the floor was dry using a damp meter, once satisfied I was able to start the sealing process. The customer had requested a silk finish, however because of the age of the cottage and the possibility of damp in this old floor my choice of sealer was limited to those that are fully breathable.

 

On this occasion I chose to apply several coats of Tile Doctor Seal & Go Extra, this product will allow the floor to breathe and provide the desired finish. It was a good decision, and as hoped it enhanced the appearance of the floor beautifully.

 

My customer was very happy with the renovation and the transformed floor and left the following feedback:

  "Friendly service, reasonably priced and a good standard of work. Has breathed new life into my old quarry tile floor."

Source: Quarry Floor Restoration in South Yorkshire

How to Repair a Slate Floor Tile

Homeowners often choose slate tiles for bathroom and kitchen remodels because they are cost-effective, durable and sturdy. But when accidents happen, even the most well-made tiles can crack or get scratched. Fortunately, slate tiles are simple to replace. Even if you didn't install your tile floor yourself, you can replace a broken tile without calling in a professional. Your most difficult task could be finding a replacement tile that is the same shape and design of your broken tile.

1. Break away the grout around the damaged slate tile with a utility knife. Scrape away as much of the grout as possible, and try to remove the tile. If the tile will not budge, use a hammer and a chisel to break the tile into smaller pieces. Lightly chisel the center of the tile until it breaks into smaller pieces. Do not use too much force when breaking apart the grout or the tile to avoid damaging nearby tiles.
2. Remove the pieces of tile. Remove remaining grout by scraping it away with the utility knife. The area behind the tile should be as smooth as possible. Use a piece of sandpaper if necessary.
3. Fit the open space with the replacement tile. The tile must have the same dimensions as the broken tile. If it fits flush with the other tiles, spread an adhesive on the back and press it into place. Secure the new tile with masking tape, and let it dry overnight.
4. Remove the tape from the tile. With a sponge, apply a premixed grout over the entire surface of the tile. Allow the grout to cover part of the neighboring tiles to ensure that the grout enters the joints around the replacement tile.
5. Round out the edges around the replacement tile using a jointing tool or the rounded end of a toothbrush. Drag the tool along the edges of the tile where the grout has been placed. Keep dragging it along until the grout has a concave look that matches the rest of the tiles.
6. Wipe away the excess grout with a wet rag. Allow the grout to dry for the next hour. Polish the replacement tile with a dry cloth.

Source: www.HomeSteady.com

How to Reset Loose Ceramic Tiles

 If one or more of the ceramic tiles on your bathroom floor or kitchen back splash is loose, it's important to reset it immediately. Tiles and grout together prevent moisture from getting underneath the tiles; if that protection is breached by a loose tile, you could end up with more loose tiles. It's best if you have extra tiles of the same type available. If not, you'll have to be extra careful when you remove the tile to avoid cracking it.

What You'll Need:

• Grout saw
• Small, sharp chisel
• Small hammer
• Hand-held vacuum
• Heavy metal putty knife
• Tile adhesive
• Pre-mixed grout
• Grout float
• Sponge

1. Use your grout saw to remove the grout around the tile. Scrape the blade back and forth, with firm downward pressure, gradually loosening the grout. Stop and vacuum up the debris as necessary.
2. Work your putty knife under the tile, tapping it with the hammer. Don't try to pry it out (you'll break the tile), but gradually work it around the edges until the tile pops out in one piece.
3. Use your hammer and chisel to remove all residual grout and dried glue from the hole. Be careful not to chip the adjacent tiles. Vacuum the area thoroughly.
4. Spread tile adhesive on the back of your tile, using the putty knife. Set the tile in place in the hole. Press it firmly and twist it slightly to get a good seal. Let it set overnight.
5. Scoop up your pre-mixed grout with your rubber grout trowel and press it into the lines around the re-set tile. Run the edge of the float sideways along the surface, to squeeze the excess grout off the tile face. Wipe down the area with a damp sponge. Let the grout set for a few days before resuming use of the area.

Warning: Wear eye protection when using a grout saw.

Source: www.HomeSteady.com

How to Give Shady Grout a Consistent Appearance

The Splashback and Worktops in this Guilford Kitchen had been made from Glazed Ceramic tiles. However, the kitchen units had been extended several times and each time it seems a different shade of grout had been used. Dark grey, light grey and even grout with a brown tint in places. Naturally, she wanted a consistent colour throughout, and the grout needed a good clean.

 

You don’t see so many tiled worktops these days, Granite, Marble, Corian and laminates are more popular however it was an interesting project, and I was happy to help. I was confident we could achieve a consistent appearance by recolouring the grout which would also make the grout easier to clean and give the appearance of the Kitchen a lift.

 

Cleaning Ceramic Tiled Worktops

Firstly, I prepared the whole area by cleaning the grout. Grout colours achieve better adhesion when the grout is free of dirt and grease and Tile Doctor Grout Colourant Pre-Treat Cleaner is ideal for this. It’s an acid-based grout cleaner that cleans and etches the surface of the grout to make a superior bond with the colourant.

Another option is to use Tile Doctor Grout Clean-Up and as I already had a large bottle of this on the van, I decided to go with this instead diluted 50:50 with water. Working in sections I brushed it into the worktop and splashback grout and left it to dwell for thirty minutes before scrubbing it in with a firm wire brush. This action released the dirt which was then rinsed away with more water and then extracted with a wet vacuum to keep the mess to a minimum.

Following the cleaning the grout was now wet, so for the next half an hour I speed dried the grout with a heat gun. The colourant needs to be applied to dry grout, so this was a necessary step to ensure the best result.

The client had selected to use Tile Doctor Grout Colourant in Light Grey so once dried I started the colouring, brushing it in carefully with a narrow paint brush. The product dries quickly so any excess that gets onto the tile must be wiped off immediately. The process is quite slow and meticulous requiring a steady hand, but the results speak for themselves.

There was no need to apply a sealant over the colourant and the nature of the product acts as a barrier over the grout making it much easier to keep clean. Tile Doctor has a range of Grout Colourants in ten popular colours so there is plenty of choice. Using a colourant is much easier and less labour intensive than scraping the old grout out and re grouting. My client was also keen to avoid the mess of this option.

 

Once complete the tiles looked so much better, certainly my client was very pleased with the finish and left the following review.

  “I’m very happy with every aspect of Rupert’s work, he renovated my kitchen worktops and splash backs. Great job. Thank you.”

Source: Grout Cleaning and Colouring Service in Surrey

How to Renovate a Terracotta Tiled Floor

I was called in by a client from the Cotswolds market town of Witney who had lifted up a carpet to discover a Terracotta tiled floor underneath. Although the floor was in good physical condition the carpet and underlay had been trapping moisture from evaporating resulting. Old floors like this one were laid before damp proof membranes became standard so covering them up can cause damp issues. It is important to allow moisture from underneath tiled floors to evaporate unimpeded otherwise moisture can reach out to the walls resulting in rising damp.

 

Moisture can also penetrate the pores of the clay Terracotta tile potentially leading to its degradation over time and in this case resulted in the appearance of white efflorescent salts being deposited on the tile surface causing unsightly staining.

 

Cleaning Terracotta Tile

I started cleaning the Terracotta by doing applying strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which is an effective alkaline tile cleaner. For best results I spread the solution on the floor and then leave it to dwell and soak in for up to twenty minutes. This gives the product time to eat into the dirt and old coatings before being scrubbed in with a black pad fitted to a rotary floor machine. This worked very well on the floor and the cleaning solution was soon dirty with the released soil which was removed using a wet vacuum and more water to rinse it away and dry the floor as much as possible.

To remove the white efflorescent staining the floor was given an acid wash using Tile Doctor Grout Clean-up which is designed for removing grout and other mineral stains from tiling. This was brushed into the tile and grout by hand and left to fizz as it reacted with the efflorescence. After another rinse and extract with the wet vacuum the floor was left to dry out for a couple of days. The next step would be to seal the Terracotta and for best results the tile needs to be dry.

 

Sealing Terracotta Tile

On my return I checked the tiles were dry by taking a few moisture readings with a damp meter. The readings came back fine so I need not have been concerned however Terracotta tiles being made from clay are very porous so its always a good idea to check.

Given the previous issues with damp I knew I would need to use a fully breathable sealer, so I opted to use Tile Doctor Colour Grow. This product will cope well with the moisture and contains a colour enhancing formula that really brings out the red colour of the Terracotta.

 

Except for a few deep efflorescent stains in the grout, the floor responded very well to the treatment and made a massive improvement to the overall appearance. My client was pleased with the transformation and the newly restored floor matched well with the character of the property.

Source: Terracotta Cleaning and Renovation Service in Oxfordshire

How to Pattern Ceramic Countertop Tiles

Depending on the size, shape and color of the tiles, the number of options can be staggering when it comes to creating a pattern for your ceramic countertop tiles. Countertops can be tiled with ceramic tiles, natural stone tiles, glass tiles with glittering metallic flakes embedded in the surface, glazed porcelain tile, and even elegant polished marble tiles. You can make patterns with mosaic sheets that are covered with a myriad of tiny ceramic tiles or design your own pattern and add personality to any room.

Thing You'll Need:

• Measuring tape
• 3 different colored tile samples
• Paper
• Pencil
• Ruler
• Digital camera
• Colored pencils

1. Research tile patterns for decor themes on the Internet or in home decorating magazines. Print or make a copy of any patterns that you would like to use as a visual aid.
2. Measure the dimensions of the countertop and write them down. Keep these measurements handy as you go to purchase sample ceramic tiles as they help you determine the size of the tile and how they fit together.
3. Select a main color tile, called a field color, for your countertop that matches the color scheme of your kitchen or bathroom.
4. Select two to three accent colors tiles that go with the color scheme and your overall decorating theme and enhance the visual appearance of the field color tile. Accent tiles are a lighter or darker hue of color, or they can be a matching color that draws attention to the simple pattern on your counter top. They can be square, diamond shaped or circular and can be a single color or have a striking design painted or embossed on them.
5. Draw a map of your countertop. Sketch tile design ideas on it to start brainstorming patterns for the ceramic tiles you selected.
6. Cut a 1-square-foot piece of paper and draw a grid of 1-inch squares on it with a ruler. The grid helps you visualize sections of the counter space and the tile positions of your pattern.
7. Experiment with tile patterns by laying out your ceramic tile samples on the paper grid. Start with simple designs and set the larger tiles down first.
8. Fill spaces between the larger tiles with smaller accent tiles as you begin to design your own tile pattern.
9. Create borders or lines of tile that goes across the entire counter near the midway point to create the illusion of a larger countertop.
10. Place the tiles on your counter in the desired pattern to see how they look once they are installed. You may need to come up with several different patterns before you find one that fits your room perfectly.
11. Take a picture of the tile pattern with a digital camera or draw the tile pattern and shade it with colored pencils that match the tile colors. These visuals assist with laying the tiles in your personalized pattern, as you are able to quickly see the color and position of the tiles without having to read over notes.

Tips:

• Find fabric prints that match the style of your decorating theme and use swatches of the fabric to help you find the perfect tile color combinations for your counter top.
• Brick patterns, straight, diagonal, checkerboard and herringbone patterns are common tile designs.

Source: www.HomeGuides.sfgate.com

How to Remove Carpet Adhesive

Carpet or tile adhesive can seem almost impossible to remove from a concrete or wooden floor, especially when it has been there for a long time. If you try sanding, it will heat up and clog up the sandpaper. If you wire brush it with a wire wheel on your drill, again if you let it heat up, it will just clog up the wire brush. A heat gun can soften most adhesives and allow for some degree of scraping, but it is slow as concrete below will be quite cold and will draw the heat away from the adhesive and bare wood below can just get blacker with melted adhesive. The good news is that most of these adhesives can be softened up by using their original solvent.

Water or Solvent based adhesive?

If you can’t find the new removers, or find them too expensive, then you will have to go back to the old techniques. First you want to determine if it is a water base or a solvent based adhesive. Take a face cloth and soak it in hot water. Place it over a patch of the adhesive, even cover it with plastic to keep it from drying out. Leave it for about an hour. Try scraping. If at least a little of the top has softened up enough to scrape off with a putty knife, you are in business. Cover as large an area as you can reach with hot water and something to avoid evaporation. You can dam up the water over concrete but be careful over hardwood as the water will flow between the cracks. You can simply keep rags soaked. You will soon learn just how long it takes for each patch to soften up. This is a slow process but the more patience you have the less elbow grease you will need.

Using Heat

If there is a clear varnish on a wooden hardwood floor under that glue, you can usually successfully soften the varnish with a heat gun, even if your don’t soften the glue. The soft varnish will permit you to easily scrape off the glue on top of it. In this case, sanding lightly and refinishing could give you a nice hardwood floor because the varnish kept the black adhesive from staining the wood.

Using solvents

If the neither water nor heat affect it, try the same technique with paint thinner. If you have to go this route, turn off all heating devices, all pilot lights and assure yourself some good cross ventilation. Put plastic over the soaking rags to prevent evaporation, to force the solvents down into the adhesive and to have less fumes to deal with. Work in a relatively small area at a time. This should soften up just about any adhesives that won’t respond to water. Hang the rags out to dry or keep them in a closed metal container to avoid the possibility of spontaneous combustion and fire. If you can find the new gell like glue strippers mentioned above, they will be less volitle and more effective than paint thinners.

Source: Joneakes.com

How to Renovate Old Terracotta Floor Tiles

This client had acquired a 400-year old cottage in Leatherhead as part of his divorce agreement. The front room was tiled with Terracotta which is a soft stone and particularly porous. The tiles had seen a lot of wear and use over the years and were now in need of some love.

   

He emailed over some photographs however it’s difficult to tell the best remedy without doing any testing, so I arranged visit the property and take a proper look. It was immediately clear the Terracotta had become badly discoloured in places some of which was from burning logs which had previously fallen from the fireplace onto the tiles. There was also a considerable amount of red paint around the edges that would need removing.

This work would take two days with at least 48 hours in-between days to allow for evaporation as a wet tile cannot be sealed. The client was happy to go ahead with my quote and we arranged a suitable time to complete the work for him.

 

Cleaning a Terracotta Tiled Living Room Floor

Firstly, as the terracotta is soft and more importantly red it can make a mess of the woodwork when cleaning with water, so I covered the kickboards with sticky plastic coating to ensure they were protected.

Then I removed the edging paint by softening it with an application of a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go. Once left for half an hour the paint starts to soften and this makes it easier to remove, although this is a manual process carefully scrapping the remains of the paint away.

Next, I coated the floor with Tile Doctor Oxy-Gel. This strong cleaning product is left for half an hour to work into the pores of the Terracotta. With some water I gently cleaned the floor with a rotary machine fitted with a nylon pad. This is a wet process, so no dust is created.

For the next few hours, I cleaned the whole room. The areas damaged by burning wood were worked on with a diamond encrusted pad to get deep into the tile. When finished, the tiles were clean and more consistent in appearance and colour. I left the floor for the weekend to fully dry.

 

Sealing a Victorian Tiled Hallway Floor

On the Monday I returned to seal the Terracotta first checking the tiles had dried out using a damp meter. The customer didn’t want either a shiny finish or a matte finish. He did want a strong, protective sealer so we agreed on using Tile Doctor Seal and Go Extra which leaves a sheen finish and will last for years. The floor was now fully protected and should be durable for the foreseeable future.

   

The client was very happy with the work we had carried out, it had really transformed the room and he was looking forward to getting the furniture back in to position.

Source: Terracotta Floor Cleaning and Renovation Service in West Surrey

How to Seal Quarry Tile

Quarry tile adds beauty and value to your home. Perhaps the most well-known type of quarry tile is terra cotta, which is made from red clay. However, quarry tile is available in a wide range of colors and designs to suit any decorating theme. It’s important to apply sealant to quarry tile.

The tiles are porous and will absorb stains along with water if left unprotected. It’s not hard to seal quarry tile. You should use a sealing compound formulated for unglazed tile. Avoid common substitutes like linseed oil or floor wax. These do not properly seal the tile and may result in discoloration because the tiles will trap dirt.

Things You’ll Need

• QT sealer
• Paintbrush
• Rags
• T and G cleaner

Instructions

1. Test the quarry tile to see if it needs to be sealed. With newly-laid tile this isn’t needed, since you know sealing is required. Existing tile should be re-sealed periodically (about every two years). Place an ounce or so of water on a tile. Allow it to set for 5 or 10 minutes and then dry the tile. Wait about 2-3 minutes. If the tile is still darkened from water absorption, it’s time to re-seal.
2. Clean the tile thoroughly using grout and tile cleaner. Manufacturer’s instructions vary, but in general you should spread the cleaner on and allow it to set for a half hour or so, and then wipe the cleaner off the tile. Allow the tile to dry completely before applying sealant. To be sure it’s completely dry, leave the tile overnight.
3. Use a good paintbrush to apply the first coat of sealant. Spread a layer of sealant over the tile area and let it soak in for about 5 minutes. Use a rag to wipe excess off the tile. Wait at least 30 minutes and then apply a second coat the same way. Again, wait a few minutes, and then wipe off the excess. Allow the tile to dry for 2-3 hours before resuming normal use of the area.

Source: https://homesteady.com/

How to Make Slate Tile Shine

Slate is a natural stone with durability and low maintenance requirements that make it a good choice for flooring. Slate comes in a variety of colors and veins, but rarely does the stone have a natural shine to it, and never a high shine that you see on polished flooring such as marble. Although proper cleaning and avoidance of wax flooring products will reduce dullness of slate tile, to make slate tile shine, you need to treat the floor with acrylic sealer.

Things You’ll Need

• Broom or vacuum
• Mop or steam mop
• Acrylic sealer

Instructions

1. Remove all furniture and non-fixed floor items from the room with the slate tile.
2. Sweep or vacuum the floor to remove dust and dirt.
3. Mop the slate with hot water only to ensure the slate is clean. If you have a steam mop, that is an even better choice as it dries quickly. Hand-dry the floor with towels or wait until the floor naturally dries.
4. Apply acrylic sealer to the slate. Acrylic sealer can be purchased at flooring and home improvement stores. Be sure you select one that is suitable for slate tile. Allow the sealer to dry completely.
5. Assess the shine from the application of sealer. If the shine is not high enough, apply another layer of sealer to the floor. You may have to apply several layers of sealer before you achieve the shine desired. Wait 48 hours after applying the last coat of sealant before returning furniture to the room.

Source: www.Hunker.com

How to Remove White Paint Stains From a Black Granite Kitchen Sink

When an accidental paint splatters or drips leave you with white paint stains on your black granite kitchen sink, don't panic. Latex and acrylic paints usually do not stain and should clean right up. Oil-based paints will stain, but you should be able to remedy the problem without major chemical or professional treatments. As with any stain, the quicker you get to the stain, the better your chances of removing it completely.

What You'll Need:

• Razor blade
• Paper towels
• Baking soda
• Plastic scraper
• Plastic wrap
• Tape
• Soft cloth

1. Blot the stain with a paper towel if the paint is still fresh to remove it. Scrape paint off the kitchen carefully with a razor blade if it has dried. Wipe up paint flakes with a damp paper towel.
2. Wet the area, and then create a poultice of equal parts baking soda and water; use more baking soda if needed to create a thick paste. Apply a 1/4- to 1/2-inch-thick poultice. Spread the poultice evenly over the stained area with a plastic scraper tool.
3. Cover the poultice with plastic wrap and tape down the edges. Allow the poultice to stand for 24 to 48 hours, depending on the severity of the stain.
4. Remove the plastic wrap and rinse the area thoroughly. Buff the area with a soft cloth. Repeat the process if the stain has not lifted completely.

Warnings:

• Avoid using flame tools or acid products, such as lemon juice and white vinegar, to remove paint stains on granite.
• Wear goggles and a dust mask if working with a solvent to remove paint stains. Keep windows and doors open as well to circulate the air.
• Avoid using heavy-duty paint strippers to remove paint stains, especially if they are small. Paint strippers will break down the granite surface and you will have to re-polish the stone.
• Refrain from rubbing the paint stains.

Tips:

• Create a poultice of equal parts mineral spirits and poultice materials, such as fuller's earth, diatomaceous earth, talc or powdered chalk as an alternative cleaning solution for oil-based paint stains.

Source: HomeGuides.sfgate.com

How to Remove Bitumen and Cement from Stone Flooring

Late last year I was asked to survey a Flagstone floor in Morecambe which appeared to be beyond restoration. The floor had a long history and at some point in its past was covered with carpet which had been secured onto self-levelling cement with bitumen. All the companies that had visited before we got there said nothing could be done with it and recommended replacing the carpet or covering it with vinyl. As mentioned, it had been previously covered with carpet however this is an old floor and damp had been rising though the floor causing the carpet to rot. My client didn't want to entertain that as a solution and so kept on looking for a company that could restore the stone.


Old houses like this one do not have a damp proof membrane installed under the floor and moisture rising through the stone needs to be allowed to evaporate or you will find damp spreads outwards towards the walls leading to rising damp. In this case I suspect the bitumen which acts as a water barrier had either failed or damp was coming up the wall and into the carpet and underlay. Certainly, in our experience, if you have an old natural stone floor like this it is best not to cover it with anything more than a rug.

 Having inspected the floor, I recommended restoring the appearance of the flagstones by grinding the surface down a few millimetres to reveal new stone. We can do this using several different grades of coarse diamond encrusted diamond pads, a process we call Milling.

Cleaning/Repairing a Flagstone Tiled Hallway Floor

After being given instructions to restore the floor we returned on the schedule date and began by removing as much of the loose cement and bitumen by hand using hand tools.


Milling the floor using a very coarse 50-Grit pad fitted with DRB segments (Diamond Resin Blocks). Cutting the surface of the stone like this is hard work and requires the use of a weighted floor buffer to apply the pads. The process is lubricated with water and generates a lot of slurry which is extracted off the floor with a wet vacuum. The 50-grit pad was followed with a 100-grit DRB pad and then 200-grit DRB pad which start the slow process of refining the surface. It’s a two-man job so I brought a colleague along, whilst one was milling the other could take a rest and help with the clean-up.

The milling did a great job of removing the Black Bitumen, Self-Levelling compound and old paint revealing the true beauty ` and colour of the Flagstones, in fact the stone had quite a variance of colour which was lovely to see coming through. Half the pointing was missing so after milling the stone we moved onto replacing what was left of the old pointing and replacing with a modern breathable product.

We called back the next day to finish the stone cleaning by further renovating the stone surface using finer grades of diamond encrusted burnishing pads of 400 and 800-grit. Again, you need to water to lubricate the process and rinse the slurry of the floor with water after each pad, then extract with a wet vacuum. This does leave the floor damp, so once we had finished it was left to dry out for a few days, old floors without a damp proof membrane can take longer to dry and especially so in the Winter months.

Sealing a Flagstone Tiled Hallway Floor

Returning a few days later the stone was first checked with a damp meter to check it had dried out before sealing. The moisture readings were fine, so it was then sealed with a couple of coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which penetrates deep into the stone protecting it from within and enhancing the natural colours in the process.


The flagstone floor was completely transformed by the process and our client was over the moon with the result. In fact, they have asked us back to do the same in the Kitchen as the vinyl in there has since been torn up and revealed the same stone.


Source: Stone Floor Cleaning and Restoration Service in Lancashire

How to Use Granite Tile Outdoors

Commonly used on cement patios and walkways, granite tiles add elegance to any outdoor space. However, poorly-placed granite tiles can become yellowed, cracked or waterlogged. Ensure your granite tiles withstand the elements by choosing weather-resistant materials and installing these materials with the outdoors in mind.

What You'll Need:

• Class A, B or C granite tile
• Tape measure
• Level
• Epoxy-based cement filler
• Moisture barrier (exterior grade)
• Tile adhesive/mortar (acrylic-or epoxy-based)
• Notched trowel
• Grout
• Grout float (rubber coated)
• Sponge
• Grout sealer (exterior-grade)

1. Measure the space you wish to cover with granite to determine how many tiles you will need. Purchase roughly 10 percent more tile than you will need, to allow for mistakes or broken pieces.
2. Choose a Class A through C granite for your outdoor space, and steer clear of class D granites. Class D granite tiles are highly pocked and filled with a UV-sensitive polyester epoxy resin. After continuous exposure to the sun's rays, the resin breaks down, causing a crackled yellow appearance. Also, avoid dark granite tiles, as these will absorb the sun's intense heat.
3. Remove debris from your existing concrete walkway or patio, and repair any cracks or fissures using an epoxy-based cement filler. Allow the filler to dry completely.
4. Coat your existing concrete slab with a layer of thin-set, acrylic- or epoxy-based tile adhesive or mortar, using a notched trowel.
5. Place the moisture barrier onto the thin-set, and press the barrier into the mortar to be sure it is tightly sealed. Common exterior barriers are polyethylene or plastic sheeting or exterior-grade plywood.
6. Smear a layer of thin-set, acrylic- or epoxy-based tile adhesive over a small portion of the moisture barrier, using a notched trowel.
7. Install the granite tiles quickly, before the mortar dries. Use a level as you go, and add more or less thin-set to raise or lower the tiles, so they remain level with one another. Allow the mortar time to set, according to the manufacturer's directions.
8. Grout over the tile seams, using an exterior grout and a rubber-coated grout float. Wipe away excess grout haze using a moist sponge. For tougher spots, spray off the haze using a garden hose.
9. Seal the grout from stains, using an exterior-grade sealer.

Tips:

• Buy all of your tiles at once, as there may be slight variations from box to box.
• Place tiles close together for exterior surfaces. This helps to keep moisture out of the underlayment.
• Use a moisture-resistant underlayment and slope it away from the home. This will prevent the tiles from becoming waterlogged and then freezing and cracking in the winter.
• Dry fit the tile before installing it to determine how the finished project will look. If pieces need to be trimmed -- using a tile saw -- this is a good time to do so.

Source: GomeGuides.sfgate.com

How to Grout Stainless Steel Tile

Stainless steel tiles are primarily installed on walls but they can also be used on floors except those where water pools like in a shower stall. Because these tiles are susceptible to being scratched, they are face taped to protect the surface during shipping and throughout the installation.
It's only when the installation is complete that the face tape is peeled away from the surface of the tile. Because these tiles are more prone to damage, grouting needs to be done more carefully.

What You'll Need:

• Tile sponge
• Bucket
• Putty knife
• Grout saw
• Utility knife
• Grout, sanded or unsanded
• Rubber float
• Silicone caulk
• Caulk gun
• Silicone grout sealer
• Cheesecloth
• Tile cleaner

1. Clean the stainless steel tile installation to prepare it to receive the grout. Dip the tile sponge in a bucket of cold, clean water and wring it out. Wipe the grout joints to clear away any dirt, dust, debris and thinset mortar that hasn't yet hardened.
2. Use a putty knife, grout saw or utility knife to remove thinset that oozed up between the stainless steel tiles and has dried hard. Clean joints will create clean grout lines.
3. Mix up an unsanded grout if the grout lines between the stainless steel tiles are 1/8-inch wide or less. If grout lines are over 1/8-inch wide use sanded grout. The grout should be good quality and contain latex additives. Mix per manufacturer's directions in a bucket, adding water as needed.
4. Scoop grout out of the bucket with a rubber grout float--a hand tool used to press grout into the tile joints. Holding the float at a 45 degree angle to the tile surface, move the grout-loaded float across the surface of the wall at a 45-degree diagonal to the joint lines.This ensures the grout fills the joints without it being pulled back out with every consecutive pass of the float. Move the float diagonally from left to right and vice versa. Use the same technique if grouting a floor installation.
5. Wait 20 to 30 minutes before wiping the grout the first time. Dip a tile sponge in a bucket of clean water and wring out any excess. Focus mainly on wiping the grout off the surface of the stainless steel tiles. If you notice any low spots in any grout lines, refill them with the float.
6. Wait another 20 to 30 minutes. With a fresh bucket of clean water dip the sponge in, wring it out and wipe the sponge vertically and horizontally across the grout lines to smooth them.
7. Fill the bucket a third time with clean water after a 15 to 30 minute wait. Dip the sponge in and wring it out. The purpose of the third wipe is to wipe the last of any grout residue left on the stainless steel tiles. Wipe once with one side of the tile sponge. Flip it over, and wipe a second time. Dip the sponge into the water and rinse it well. Wring out excess water and repeat you have wiped the entire installation clean.
8. Caulk along the stainless steel tiles with a flexible sealant where they meet the floor, at inside corners or where they come in contact with any surfaces that are restraining like pipes or cabinets. Wait two days to caulk to give the grout time to dry.
9. Apply silicone sealer to the grout lines per manufacturer's instructions. Wait between two days and two weeks for the grout to thoroughly dry before application. Check the grout packaging for generally how long it takes the grout to dry.
10. Peel off the face tape from the front of each of the stainless steel tiles. Clean the metal with a neutral, concentrated tile cleaner. First wipe the surface of the tiles with clean cheesecloth. Next dip a clean tile sponge in the tile cleaner, wring it out and wipe the surface of the tile.

Tip:

Unsanded grout doesn't have silica sand in it which means that as the grout float presses the grout in between the stainless steel tile it can more easily penetrate the space between the tiles. Sanded grout does contain silica sand; this makes the grout more durable, which is necessary with wider grout lines. Grout should be mixed to a consistency where it's loose enough to be pressed into the joints and stiff enough to stay put once it's in the joints. Use a plastic knife to help lift the initial corner of the face tape on the tile when peeling it off. The plastic won't scratch the tile surface. Using warm water to wipe grout will accelerate the drying of the grout. If you are grouting for the first time, use cold water. It will give you more time to work.

Source: www.HomeSteady.com

How to Clean Old Brick Walls

Though they add character and charm to any home, brick walls become dusty and dirty over time. Clean your brick walls regularly to maintain their appearance; use the proper products and methods to clean old brick walls so not to damage the brick surface. Whether you have old brick walls are inside or outside of your home, keep them clean to preserve the beauty of the brick.

Things You’ll Need

• Feather duster or vacuum cleaner with hose attachment
• Garden hose
• Two buckets
• 1/2 cup clear dish soap
• Rags
• Old toothbrush
• Table salt
• Bowl
• Spoon

Instructions

1. Dust off the brick. Use a feather duster or vacuum cleaner hose attachment to remove loose dust and dirt from interior brick walls. Rinse exterior brick walls with plain water from the garden hose.
2. Fill a bucket with 3 gallons warm water. Add 1/2 cup clear dish soap to the water. Use your hands to mix up the soap and water. Fill a separate bucket with 3 gallons of plain, warm water if you are cleaning interior brick. Exterior brick cleaning does not require the use of the second bucket of plain water.
3. Start cleaning at the top of the brick wall, working your way toward the bottom. Clean the wall in sections of about 3 to 5 feet.
4. Dip a rag into the bucket of soapy water. Wring out the rag well.
5. Scrub the bricks with the rag and soapy water. Rinse and wring out the rag often while cleaning. Use an old toothbrush dipped in the bucket of soapy water to clean the mortar between the bricks.
6. Rinse interior brick walls with a rag dipped in a bucket of plain water. Rinse and wring out the rag often to avoid reapplying dirt and soap to the walls. Rinse exterior brick walls with plain water from your garden hose, rinsing from the top of the wall toward the bottom. Allow the brick walls to air dry.
7. Use a salt and soap cream as an alternative method for cleaning brick walls. Mix equal parts liquid dish soap and table salt into a bowl. Stir the ingredients well with a spoon. Dip a rag into the bowl, and scrub the mixture onto the brick walls. Allow it to sit on the walls for 10 minutes, then rinse with a rag and plain water, or water from a garden hose if the walls are outside.

Source: www.HomeSteady.com

How to Polish Absolute Black Granite

When granite is clean and polished it has a brilliant shine that can make your floors, counters or backsplashes look pristine and luxurious. Absolute black granite is a very dark and pure black color that can look very glossy when you polish it correctly. If the surface of your granite is cracked, chipped or etched you will need to take it to be automatically and professionally polished. If the surface is dull but otherwise intact, you can polish it yourself at home.

1. Wet a clean cloth with clear water.
2. Rub the cloth over the surface of the granite. This will wipe up any crumbs, dust or pieces of dirt. It will also remove any food or cleaning solution residue.
3. Add just enough liquid dish soap to 2 tbsp. flour to make a thick paste.
4. Spread the paste over any stains on the granite counter. Stained counters will not shine.
5. Let the flour paste sit on the area overnight until it dries.
6. Wet another clean cloth and rub it over the flour paste on the black granite.
7. Immediately dry the counters with a microfiber cloth. One common reason why granite counters do not shine is that water air dried on it and has made a watermark. Continue drying the granite in circular motions until the granite is polished and bright.
8. Spray stone polish on the surface of the granite if it still does not appear polished.
9. Buff the polish by rubbing it with a circular motion until the granite shines.

Source: www.HomeSteady.com

Improving a Balcony With Encaustic Cement Tiles in East London

This client from Hackney had started a DIY tiling job using modern Encaustic Cement tiles on an external balcony. The COVID-19 lockdown had just taken effect and it seemed like a great opportunity to get a few DIY projects done. Although it started off well, she began to struggle when having to cut the edging tiles and corners so was forced to leave the tiling incomplete and un-grouted. Furthermore, she had attempted to seal the tiles, but this had somehow caused the tiles to go milky white. Encaustic tiles date back to medieval times and have been popular in the UK since the nineteenth century and have become extremely popular here in the last few years.


Concerned the whole project would need ripping up and starting again she contact Tile Doctor and I arranged a visit to the property to assess the tiling and see if the project it could be rescued. Since the COVID-19 epidemic began we have adopted new working practices such as more PPE and Social Distancing to allow us to continue working.


We test cleaned the sealer and found the application of a 400-grit diamond pad was the best way to clean off the sealer and renovate the tile. Additionally, we had been asked to complete the tiling project which was approx. 24m2. The job would therefore entail tiling, cleaning, and sealing so it took a little while to calculate the quote which was accepted.

Cleaning/Repairing an Encaustic Cement Tiled Balcony

There was a lot of work to do and so I teamed up with fellow Tile Doctor Andrew Newstead for this job working as a two-man team. It took three days to complete the tiling and the grouting, then we returned the following week to allow the adhesive and grout to fully dry over the weekend. The next step was to clean the area the customer had previously laid and sealed to remove the old sealer that had damaged the colour and look of the tiles. For this we used water and a series of 400, 800 and 1500-grit diamond pads. This gradually removed the sealer and brought the tiles back to a more natural finish. We suspect the reason her tiles went milky was she hadn’t buffed off the excess sealer but luckily, we were able to fix it.

Sealing an Encaustic Cement Tiled Balcony

We then returned for one more morning, buffed tiles with a 3000-grit pad to further enhance their appearance and then seal with two coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow. Colour Grow is an impregnating sealer that improves colour and works by soaking into the pores of the tile preventing dirt from becoming ingrained there.


I’m pleased to say the whole job went smoothly and our client was pleased (see feedback below) that they could finally use their balcony which I’m sure has been in constant use since.

Plenty of problems to solve with my half-finished roof terrace, which were solved cheerfully and carefully. By Gemma M, Hackney, 27 May 2020

Source: Patio Tile Cleaning and Renovation Service in East-London

How to Seal Granite Floor Tiles

Granite floor tiles are an elegant and durable addition to any home. Granite is harder and more durable than marble or limestone, but still brings the look and beauty of natural stone to an area. While granite is extremely dense, it can be damaged by repeated exposure to dirt, spills and stains. To help protect the stone, and give you time to wipe these substances up, seal granite floor tiles on a yearly basis.

Things You'll Need

• Broom
• Granite cleaner
• Clean sponge mop with refill
• Granite sealer
• Absorbent cotton cloths

Step 1

Sweep the floor thoroughly to remove any dirt or debris resting on the surface. Spray granite cleaner on the tiles once surface dirt has been removed, and mop with a clean sponge attachment to remove any spills or other substances from the tiles. Allow the floor to dry completely.

Step 2

Pour a silicone-based, impregnating sealer onto the floor. Use a mop with a new sponge attachment to spread the sealer over the floor. Saturate the tiles in sealer so that the granite appears wet; look for and cover dry spots to ensure you cover the entire floor. Wait 10 minutes for the sealer to soak into the stone.

Step 3

Dry the granite with absorbent, cotton cloths to remove excess sealer that has not been absorbed. Buff in a circular motion until the stone is dry. Change cloths whenever the cotton stops absorbing sealer to ensure an even finish on the floor.

Tip: Well-sealed granite will bead water up off of its surface. When your floor no longer beads water, it is time to reseal it.

Source: www.eHow.com

How to Restore Victorian Minton Floor Tiles

Details below of the full restoration of a Victorian Minton tiled hallway floor that I restored earlier this year in the South Birmingham suburb of Kings Heath. The owner had recently purchased the property and discovered a Victorian tiled floor underneath an old carpet in the hallway.


The floor was in a very poor state with areas where tiles were missing and had been backfilled with a cement levelling compound. The adjacent vestibule also had a large area of tiling missing. My client was delighted when they had found some of the missing original tiles and now wanted to investigate having the floor returned to its former glory.


I went along to quote and give a demonstration of the restoration process and provide an indication of the expected results. The test area responded well to the treatment and they were happy with my quote to repair and renovate the floor, so were booked in to restore the whole floor and I set about sourcing matching replacement tiles.

Repairing a Victorian Tiled Hallway Floor

The first two days were spent carefully removing the leveller, cleaning up the exposed subfloor then cutting and fitting replacement tiles. One of the areas that needed extra work was a doorway which required a sub-floor installing before being able to tile with a matching pattern.


With the main hallway tiling completed I started on the tiling in the adjacent vestibule. I had been given a couple of bags of original tiles to sort out by the owner and fortunately most of them were in good condition, so I was able to repair the vestibule with approximately 90% original tiles. The rest were made up of reproduction tiles that I had managed to source. Additionally, the floor had numerous loose tiles which needed resetting and finishing with replacements. Due to so many of the tiles being original the appearance between the newly replaced area did not look too much different however I was confident the following deep clean and seal would blend them in well.

Deep Cleaning a Victorian Tiled Hallway Floor

With the tiling now repaired my next focus was the cleaning which I started on day three with an application of neat Tile Doctor Pro-Clean to help loosen the carpet adhesive and paint splashes that were staining the floor. The Pro-Clean was mopped onto the floor and then worked in with a 200-grit diamond pad fitted to a weighted rotary buffing machine. The extra weight, cleaning agent and coarse pad gets into the pores of the tile releasing years of ingrained dirt and removing old sealers and coatings. The floor was then rinsed with water and the waste extracted with a wet vacuum.


The next step was to give the floor an acid rinse using another Tile Doctor product called Grout Clean-up which is designed to remove grout smears and mineral salts that will have been trapped into the pores of the tile after years of being covered in carpet. The grout clean-up was worked into the tiles using a 400-grit burnishing pad to refine the tile surface and close up the pores. The floor was rinsed and extracted again and left to dry out for two nights.

 Sealing a Victorian Tiled Hallway Floor

I returned a few days later and after testing the floor was dry set about applying a sealer. For this floor I chose to apply six coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which gives a lovely sheen finish and really brought out the character in the beautiful tiles. It’s also water based so it doesn’t leave a smell as it dries.


By the time I had finished the floor was looking transformed and the client was delighted, so much so they left this fantastic review:

Kieron was fantastic. He brought our Minton flooring back to life and kept us informed every step of the way. He really knew what he was talking about and has done a fantastic job. Not to mention he was a really really lovely guy and great value for the incredible workmanship he offers."
I left the customer with a bottle of Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner to help maintain the tiles appearance. It is important to use a neutral pH cleaner when maintaining sealed floors as stronger tile cleaning products that you find in supermarkets are too strong and will prematurely strip the protective sealer off a floor.



Source: Minton Tile Cleaning and Restoration Service in Birmingham

What Causes Cracked Grout?

Cracked grout is something that many homeowners have to deal with at some point. When your grout cracks it can be a very frustrating experience, and prompt you to make some repairs. Here are a few possible causes of cracked grout and what it means to you as a homeowner.

Cracked Grout Causes

Cracked grout can be caused by a number of different things. One of the most common reasons that grout cracks is because of settling in the foundation. When tile is installed on a concrete subfloor, there is always a chance that the foundation could settle a bit. The earth below your house could move and if it does, this can cause the grout to crack. Grout is more flexible than the tile and therefore has a higher likelihood of cracking in this situation.

Another common reason that grout cracks is because the floor below the tile is not structurally sound. For example, if you install tile directly onto a wood subfloor, this will not be strong enough to protect the tile and grout. Using concrete board is essential in this situation and it will help prevent grout cracking in the future. When you walk on tile that does not have concrete or concrete board below it, there is a good chance that the grout or tile will crack.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Remove Carpet Glue from Edwardian Floor Tiles

This Edwardian tiled hallway floor was a real hidden feature of this 1940s house in Coundon Coventry. I say hidden as it had spent years under the carpet which had protected it but had also left it ingrained with dirt. The owners decided to lift the carpet and had left the floor to dry over a few months, old floors like these do not have a damp proof membrane installed and so moisture in the subfloor was being trapped underneath. Now it was dry they were now keen to get the floor fully restored and late later last year they got in touch to have it renovated.


I popped in to survey the floor and unusually for a floor of its age could find no damage or loose tiles, there was some adhesive tape to deal with along the edges but generally the floor just needed a good clean and seal. I gave them my quote which they readily accepted, and we arranged a date.

Cleaning an Edwardian Tiled Hallway Floor

The first part of the clean which involved removing the old adhesive tape and paint on the edges and corners was carefully done by hand with a scraper. The whole floor was then given a deep clean using a 45kg floor buffer fitted with a scrubbing brush to work in different products. First, I applied Tile Doctor Remove and Go to remove the old wax polish. I find it works best if you leave products to soak in for ten minutes before scrubbing it into the tiles, this gives it time to activate and breakdown the coatings. The slurry is then rinsed off with a little water and extracted with a wet vacuum.

I repeated the process, but this time using Tile Doctors Acid Gel using as little water as possible. The Tile Doctor Acid Gel will remove old grout and other mineral deposits from the tiles and it also counters any alkaline salts which can be a problem in floors of this age. This is important as the lack of a damp proof membrane will allow salts to rise through the floor as moisture evaporates on the surface resulting in white deposits, a process known as efflorescence. Again, this was rinsed off with a little water and extracted with the wet vacuum.

This work was carried out over the winter and I was careful not to over wet the tiles as they can take a long time to dry out naturally at this time of year. The moisture levels in the tiles are always a concern as my next task would be to apply a sealer and the tiles would need to be dry for the best result.

Sealing an Edwardian Tiled Hallway Floor

Conscious of the damp issue I arranged to return to seal the floor seven days later, checking the moisture levels of the tiles with a damp meter in numerous places before starting. Fortunately, seven days had been plenty of time and the floor was dry.

The floor was then sealed with five coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go Extra which allows for moisture to rise through the tile, again an important feature for a floor with no damp proof membrane. To use a sealer that was not breathable would lead to a build-up of damp under the floor where it can cause damage to the tiles and potentially work its way into the walls causing rising damp.


The client was very happy with the newly revived floor, it was nice to have an additional period feature revealed. Going forward I suggested the use of Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner which is ideal for the regular cleaning of sealing floors and will ensure the tiles remain in this lovely condition for a long time.


Source: Edwardian Floor Cleaning and Restoration Service in Warwickshire