Dry Foam Carpet Cleaning: How it Works

Dry foam carpet cleaning is a good way to clean your carpets with minimal moisture. Many people are switching to this method because it is effective and dries quickly.

What You'll Need:

• Dry foam carpet cleaner (rental)
• Dry foam

Dry Foam Basics

In order to take advantage of dry foam carpet cleaners, you will need a carpet cleaning machine to lay down the foam. The machine is required because, in addition to the application of the foam, you use the bristles from the machine to agitate the carpet and break loose any dirt or stains.

Most machines are also designed to vacuum up the leftover residue, if any, directly after the application. If the machine does not have a vacuum built-in, simply wait until the carpet dries and go over it with a regular upright vacuum to remove any leftover residue.

Getting Started with Dry Foam

Before you start cleaning with dry foam, you need to first vacuum the whole area you will be cleaning. This is important because it eliminates any unnecessary waste of dry foam chemicals. This will also allow the entire dry foam application to get down deep into the carpet fibers and pull out the dirt. But when all dry cleaning attempts fail, steam cleaning is often still the last chance solution, with its really effective way to lift dirt and buildups from the carpet fibers including pet scents and mold

You can find dry foam carpet cleaning products online or at your local general merchandise store as well as specialty vacuum shops.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Install Hardwood Floor Medallions

Hardwood floor medallions are an elegant and distinctive way to add to the home décor. Medallions are purchased separately from other flooring and come in round, rectangular and oval shapes.

Before beginning with medallion installation, note that the medallion should be maintained in conditions that control the temperature and humidity for at least one full day (24 hours) before installation. Before and after the installation, use either a built-in or portable humidifier to maintain a humidity of 40 to 60 percent. Be especially vigilant in the winter, when dry air is common. Failing to control the humidity leads to warping, cracking, and gapping with medallions and wood floors.

Mark Area

In rooms with an existing hardwood floor: Decide on the location for your medallion. If you are installing a square or rectangle medallion, use a template to trace the outline onto the installed wood floor.

If the floor is not yet installed, mark the medallion shape on the subfloor.

Install Hardwood Flooring

If you are installing a medallion on an existing hardwood floor, skip this step.

Using the manufacturer’s instruction, install the wood floor around the medallion area. Overlap the medallion area by ½ to 1 inch all around so that you will create a tight cut and leave no gaps. Keep nails away from the medallion install area.

Replace the Template

Line up the template with the lines you have traced on the floor and temporarily tape it down with painter’s tape, double-sided tape, or small staples, and be sure that it completely covers existing flooring.

Cut Hole for Medallion

Using a piece of wood along the line as a guide, use a router in several passes, cutting about 3/16” each pass. Cut down to the subfloor. Repeat for the other sides.

For a round medallion, use a jig, pivoting around a center point that is ½ the diameter of the medallion circle to create a perfect circle, or use a wood template. Again, use several passes and cut to the subfloor.

Clean Area Thoroughly

Use a vacuum then a damp rag to thoroughly clean any wood dust from the area. Put a piece of tape under the medallion area, test fit it into the hole to be sure it is largely flush with the floor, then remove the medallion.

Glue Medallion

Using flooring adhesive of moisture cure urethane adhesive, cover the medallion area. Place medallion in the hole, and put heavyweight that is evenly distributed on the medallion. Bags of sand and concrete on top of an old blanket both work well.

Clean off excess glue immediately and allow the glue to cure according to suggestions by the manufacturer. There is normally a 24 hour curing period.

Sand and Finish

If your floor and medallion are pre-finished, your task is done! If not, sand the medallion and floor to ensure an even fit. Fill any gaps with wood putty, then finish the medallion in concert with the rest of your flooring.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Installing Insulation Under The Floor

Installing floor insulation will save you money on heating and cooling costs. If you live in an older home and notice that the floors are usually cold, then that cold air is radiating into the room. Your heating costs will be much higher during the colder seasons. When you install floor insulation it will protect your floor from moisture, and keep the cold air from reaching the floor.

Installation of floor insulation is a very straightforward process. If the house is new construction, or you are adding an addition, it is easily done before the subfloor goes down. If you live in an older home, then the process is a little trickier, but still easy to do.

Measure The Floor

With your tape measure, determine how much floor insulation you will need. Measure the width and length of the room and multiply them together to give you the square footage of the room. Take this with you when you order the insulation. You will also want to determine the R-factor of the insulation. The R-factor is the amount of insulation your home has. The higher the number, the more efficient it is. Insulation is also sold in rolled batts. If you know how many square feet you need, then you can simply purchase the appropriate number of rolls.

Install Insulation - New Construction

There are two ways to install floor insulation. If you are in a new home that does not have any flooring down yet, you can lay the insulation in between the exposed joists. Starting at one end of the room, work your way to the other corner. Fold out the paper flaps along the side of the insulation and staple them to the joist. Staple the insulation every six inches or so. Lay down the water barrier over the insulation and staple it to the joists.

Install Insulation - Basement

In an older home, the process is basically the same, but you will have to insulate below the floor in the basement or crawl space. Again, start in the corner of the room and unroll the insulation. You will have to lift up the insulation in between the joists and staples. Place metal supports on the joists to help hold the insulation up. Continue until you have completed the entire floor.

If you are remodeling your room in the near future, it would be better to wait until you tear up the floor to add the floor insulation. Once you get to the subfloor, pry it up to expose the joists and lay the insulation as you would in the first example. Reinstall the subfloor over the vapor barrier and finish with your floor remodel. Now when you walk out onto the floor in the dead of winter your feet will be warmer because of the floor insulation.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Installing Brazilian Teak Flooring

Brazilian teak wood is one of the most beautiful woods for adding flooring to your home. Hardwood floors not only add beauty to your home but also add real dollars to your resale value as well. Wood floors are also very easy to clean and require only minimal maintenance. Prefinished lumber is already stained and cuts quite a bit of time from the installation process.

Unless you are going to try and match existing hardwood, prefinished lumber is the way to go. Though not the job for everyone, you can install a Brazilian wood floor with a few purchases from your local home improvement store.

Prepare the Room

You have already determined which type of lumber you want but you have to make sure that you buy the correct amount. Measure the room and account for the square footage. Add 10-15% extra for the occurrence of incorrect cuts and odd-sized pieces.

Make sure to check the subfloor before you lay down any lumber. Your subfloor should be at least ¾” thick. If not, it is best to pull up the subfloor and lay another one. If you notice any squeaky places, take a drywall nail and drive it through the subfloor into the joist. This will eliminate the squeaking. Remove the shoe molding and thoroughly clean the floor.

Put Down Tar Paper

Lay down 15-pound tar paper. This is very inexpensive. Make sure to allow for a 4” overlap on all sides. Mark the wall at every point where there are joists. This will act as a guide.

Install the Boards

Start on the longest wall and begin with a long piece of wood. Remove the shoe molding and snap a chalk line on the wall 3/8” inches from the baseboard. This allows for the wood to expand and contract when the humidity and climate changes. Aligned with the chalk line, place the first piece of wood. When you lay the first row makes sure to nail at each point that there is a joist. Use a nail punch to push the nails below the surface. Continue to put the boards in by hand until you are far enough from the wall to use the pneumatic nail gun. This will make the process easier and faster. Once you get back to close quarters you will have to nail the pieces by hand again.

Finish the Floor

You will have to make some special cuts along the baseboards and threshold. The boards along the baseboard will have to be installed by hand and depending on the opening, those at the threshold may have to be manually installed as well.

Assess the floor and determine if you need to fill any gaps. You probably will. Fill the nail holes with matching wood putty. Fill the hole with putty and wipe off the extra. That’s it. You have an exotic wood floor and you did it yourself. Congrats!

 Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Answers to 7 Common Bamboo Flooring Questions

One thing that makes bamboo flooring stand out for homeowners is its environmentally-friendly properties. Even still though, questions have arisen as to just how “green” it is and whether bamboo flooring is the best choice for your home or not.

As with any investment, there are many factors that affect the decision to make the switch. We checked out some common questions about the product to help you make an executive decision that’s right for you, your family, and your home.

1. How Do I Decide if Bamboo Flooring Is the Right Choice for Me?

Bamboo is an attractive, resilient, and cost-effective flooring style that’s booming in popularity for renovations and new homes. Compared to other hardwoods bamboo is much denser, making it an ideal option for homeowners - but the real decision depends on choosing a product you’ll love to live on in years to come.

Initially, people are drawn to the natural warmth of the bamboo material, which tends to inject a comfortable feeling into a home, and the color consistency it boasts compared to timber floors. Combined with its style variety and flooring options, easy-care maintenance, climate sustainability, and cost-effectiveness, bamboo flooring tends to be an easy choice for homeowners.

2. Where Can I Install Bamboo Flooring and How is it Installed?

Bamboo flooring is extremely versatile and can be installed in any room of your home either as a floating floor, fixed floor, or glued directly onto the subfloor. Like any hardwood flooring, bamboo can be damaged if excessive water is left to puddle for an extended period of time, so wet rooms such as bathrooms and laundries are best tiled instead.

Whilst bamboo flooring can be installed over existing tiles, timber, or concrete, it’s ideal to check for potential issues and if they’re covered in the installation warranty. In most cases, bamboo flooring combined with your current flooring style will work fine if the right glue is used to bond the two together. Tiles will require cleaning and sanding to help with this process.

Just consider how the combined height of your existing flooring in addition to the bamboo boards will impact areas such as full-length windows, door frames, and kitchen benches.

3. Are There any Bad Fumes During the Installation Process?

The type of bamboo flooring you purchase will determine the installation process and whether or not you will have to leave the home. Bamboo flooring can be purchased either as pre-finished panels or raw panels which will be sanded and polished on site.

Pre-finished bamboo requires no sanding or polishing in your home so there is no need to leave or be concerned about bad fumes. Whilst there can be a faint smell of the bonding glue for the first day, it’s not harmful and will stop once the floors dry. Sanding and polishing the floors on-site is the dustier alternative but still, depending on the installation company, it’s relatively clean and quick and the faint smell of glue will disappear after the first day or two.

4. Have the Bamboo Boards and Glue Used Been Tested for Health Risks?

Throughout Europe and Australia, strict guidelines are in place to ensure the glues used are manufactured to a safe level. Manufacturing companies that are reputable will always abide by these guidelines and test their products before distributing them.

The health and safety of you and your family are important so it pays to ask how your floor is impacted by any nasty chemicals. Whilst bamboo is an eco-friendly flooring solution, like a finished floor the glues and products used can emit toxins into your home. Formaldehyde is an organic compound commonly found in these products and is associated with health risks - but the amount of chemicals emitted will vary depending on how the planks are manufactured.

Reputable bamboo flooring companies will only use a very small amount of glue that has been safely tested during the manufacturing process. It’s not uncommon for overseas manufacturers to take shortcuts with the process so when it comes to your health, it’s best to ask how much is used and if the products meet the standards.

5. What Are the Environmental Benefits of Bamboo Flooring and How Sustainable is it?

The environmental impact of bamboo flooring is huge and offers green-conscious homeowners many benefits. As we are becoming more concerned about the sustainability of products we use around the home, bamboo flooring is like a breath of fresh air. In comparison to other woods, bamboo replenishes itself much quicker than grass – making it a highly renewable source.

Bamboo is not threatened by forestry, like hardwood, because cutting the stalks actually promotes faster growth. Thus it’s one of the more sustainable flooring solutions. Most flooring is made from Moso species, different from what pandas and other animals eat – enabling the food sources for wildlife to be protected.

6. How Durable Is Bamboo Flooring?

The durability of bamboo flooring depends on three factors, stalk construction (for example, woven strand bamboo flooring), materials added (adhesives), and the overall quality of the bamboo.

Homeowners often find it hard to comprehend just how durable bamboo flooring is compared to other hardwoods because it’s not actually wood itself. Its durability tends to come from the compression used when manufacturing and producing bamboo. The most hardwearing form of bamboo goes under 2000 tonnes (the equivalent of two jumbo jets) of pressure to make for an incredibly dent-resistant surface.

7. How Will My Bamboo Flooring React to Humidity?

Bamboo flooring can be prone to cupping and warping when exposed to humidity. In an environment that is very dry, the bamboo floors can shrink and expand, causing the bamboo to crack.

How your bamboo flooring reacts to humidity and exposure to moisture depends on its durability and board design. Despite excessive moisture having the ability to ruin any wood floor, bamboo is more advantageous in humid climates because it doesn’t swell and contract as much.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Replace a Cracked or Chipped Ceramic Floor Tile

 With patience and the right tools, you can learn how to replace a cracked or chipped ceramic floor tile. The idea of tile flooring need not be abandoned if one or a few of the tiles should happen to break. If you're considering installing a ceramic tile floor, it's always a good idea to get extra tiles. If there's a problem with breakage, the tile can be matched correctly. It's also easier to match the tile if a broken piece can be taken to the home improvement center or hardware store.

Safety glasses and work gloves are very important. Shards of ceramic tile and grout can be sharp enough to cut skin or cause eye damage. Pets and children should also be kept away from the work area, tools, and materials.

Remove the Broken Tile

Using the awl and hammer, gently chip away the grout surrounding the piece of tile, being careful not to chip the surrounding tiles. Use the chisel and the hammer to pry the tile up from the floor until the entire piece has been removed.

Prepare the Exposed Flooring

Use the hammer and chisel to chip away as much of the adhesive from the subfloor as possible. The new tile piece will stay in place much better if the subfloor is smooth before installation.

Install the New Piece of Tile

Apply the tile adhesive to the back of the tile using the notched trowel or a putty knife. This is referred to as "buttering" the tile. Place the new piece of tile onto the prepared floor, using even pressure to be sure that the new piece is level with the existing floor. Follow the directions on the adhesive itself to know how long to wait before applying the grout.

Apply the Grout

Using the putty knife, apply the grout around the new tile piece. Refer to the directions to know how long to wait before removing the excess grout, usually about fifteen minutes.

Remove the Excess Grout

Use a damp sponge or rag to gently wipe off the excess grout. The sponge or rag should not be too wet, otherwise, the water will displace the grout. Moving in a diagonal direction across the tile is the easiest way to remove excess grout from the surface, without dislodging too much.

Apply Grout Sealer

If desired, a grout sealer can be applied over the new grout to protect it from stains and mildew. Refer to the directions on the sealer to know how long to allow the grout to dry before application.

As simple as that, the floor is repaired and looking its best. This isn't a speedy process, but one that is worth taking the time and patience to complete as thoroughly as possible.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Tile and Stone Cleaning in Beziers South of France

The English owner of a French Chateau contacted Tile Doctor about the hard floors at their property in Béziers in the South of France. There were several floors at the property including Terrazzo, Limestone and Black and White Encaustic tiles all around a hundred years old and in a bad state of repair. There was a lot to cover so for this post we will focus on the Terrazzo flooring.

 

We have been known to carry out tile renovation work in other counties so we were more than happy to consider a visit to the South of France and help bring the floors back to life. Previous overseas projects have included a hotel restaurant in Addis Ababa, holiday cottages in Ireland and a villa in France. 

Luckily for us the customer had invested in some machinery that he had found on eBay but he didn’t have the technical knowledge to do the work and so had decided to seek help. Having discussed each of the floors in detail over the phone and with photographs sent via email I worked out a restoration plan for each floor.

We supplied the products he needed and we were flown down from Manchester to Béziers Cap d'Agde Airport where we were picked up by the client, (very Hollywood). If you have never been to Béziers before it’s well worth a visit, it's a beautiful area, well laid out, with parks and rivers, an old 12th Century Monastery and the property had great views all around.

Deep Cleaning and Filling Terrazzo Flooring in Béziers France

On arrival at the property work started with setting up the machinery and conducting some preliminary cleaning tests to work out the best approach. After that however our host insisted on showing us round Béziers, it was a Saturday afternoon and we were in the South of France so why not, they certainly know how to live properly down there.

   

So, work started on the Sunday with the application of a 200-grit Milling pad and Oxy-Gel cleaning solution. I was concerned (due to some hairline cracks in the Terrazzo) that water would seep through into the rooms below (this was a big old townhouse set on four levels) so by using a gel-based product it would be easier to control and the moisture would be kept to a minimum.

 

The resultant soiling was then extracted with a wet vacuum and attention moved to filling the cracks in the Terrazzo with a resin filler. Once the resin had cured the floor was cleaned again, this time with a 200-grit DRB Milling pad which contains diamond segments. The process was lubricated with water and progress was checked underneath several times to ensure the pad was working as expected.

Polishing a Terrazzo Floor in Béziers France

This work continued with increasingly finer diamond encrusted burnishing pads starting with a 400-grit Diamond burnishing pad and moving up to an 800-grit and finishing with a 1500-grit pad. Only water was used for lubrication and the soiling was extracted with a wet vacuum after each pad was applied. This method slowly improves the surface of the Terrazzo adding a long-lasting polished appearance. 

The floor was left to dry overnight and the following day treated to a spray burnish using a very fine 3000 grit burnishing pad; the pad is applied dry to the floor with only a little amount of water which is sprayed onto the surface.

Sealing Terrazzo Flooring in Béziers France

This final 3000-grit pad leaves the floor dry and allows the floor to be sealed shortly afterwards. The sealer chosen for the Terrazzo was Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is a colour enhancing impregnator which works by soaking into the pores preventing dirt from residing there. Sealing the floors keeps the dirt and other contaminates on the surface where it can be easily removed.

Two coats of Colour Grow were applied and this brought out the lovely pink tones in the Terrazzo which together with the polished appearance really transformed the appearance of the floor.

 

For aftercare cleaning I got the customer to purchase a five-litre bottle of Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner along with the other products. You must be careful what you clean sealed floors with as many products contain bleach and are simply too strong resulting in the premature degradation of the sealer.

We spent the whole week at the property and as well as working on the other floors did find time to do some more sightseeing before flying back the following weekend.

Source: Terrazzo Floor Cleaning and Restoration Service in the South of France

Buckinghamshire Tiling Expert Reveals How to Remove Stains from Encaustic Floor Tiles

The pictures below were taken at a property in the old town of Marlow which had modern Encaustic tiles installed in the downstairs WC. Although they may appear on first appearance to be perfectly fine the owner had called us in to deal with the staining around sink area around toilet.

The tiles had only been installed six months earlier and after surveying the floor it was clear to me that the tiler hadn’t applied enough protective sealant following installation. I quoted for deep cleaning the floor with diamond burnishing pads and then re-sealing with a stronger sealer which given the small size of the floor should be completed in a day.

 

Deep Cleaning an Encaustic Tiled WC Floor

To remove the original sealer and deep clean the encaustic tiles I started with a 200-grit burnishing pad lubricated with water. The floor was too small for a buffer machine so I used 6-inch pads fitted to a hand buffer. This action cuts back the tiles removing the stains in the process.

After rinsing and extracting the soiling that was generated, I checked the floor to confirm the staining was gone. I could see that the 200-grit pad had done the job and there was no need to apply a coarser 100-grit so I followed up with finer 400 and 800 grit pads. Again, water was used to lubricate the process and the floor was rinsed and extracted after each pad. I went over the floor slowly to ensure each tile had a deep clean and to avoid creating any swirl marks.

Once the 400 & 800 grit pads had been applied, I buffed the tiles with a White rag to remove any excess water and get it ready for the next pad which would enhance the deep blue colours in the floor. Once the floor was dry a very fine 1500-grit pad was applied to compete the burnishing and add a slight shine to the tiles, this also leaves the floor nice and dry and ready for sealing.

Sealing an Encaustic Tiled WC Floor

To seal the floor, I used an oil-based sealer called Tile Doctor X-Tra Seal, which is rated for internal and external use. I allowed it to soak into the encaustic tiles which would allow the colours to really darken after the use of the burnishing pads.

After about thirty minutes I rubbed off the excess with a White cloth and then proceeded to apply a 3000-grit buffing pad to leave a smooth surface and an even shine all over the floor. I finished off with a further coat of X-Tra Seal and left for 30 minutes and repeated the same process giving a deep colour finish and leaving the floor well protected.

   

The customer where very happy with the result and recommended us to friends of theirs who had the same tiled floor. Before leaving I spent a few minutes to discuss aftercare cleaning, which for this floor I recommend Neutral Tile Cleaner.

Source: Encaustic Tile Cleaning and Renovation Service in Buckinghamshire

How to Use Floor Sealant on Tile

 Using floor sealant on a tile floor can present you with several benefits. Although tile is a very hard floor, it is porous. The grout surrounding the tile is also very porous and can stain easily. Therefore, sealing it all up properly will help you avoid any problems with staining in the future. It will keep your tile look new longer and be easier to clean. Here are the basics of how to seal your tile floor properly.

What You'll Need:

• Tape measure
•  Broom
•  Dust pan
•  Mop
•  Bucket
•  Fans

Step 1 - Determine How Much To Buy

Tile sealant comes in a variety of different sizes. Depending on how big your tile area is, you will need a certain amount of sealant to get the job done. Therefore, you should take your tape measure and get the dimensions of the room first. This will tell you how many square feet you have and help you determine how big of a container to buy.

Step 2 - Buy the Proper Sealant

There are many different kinds of tile out there and as a result, there are different types of sealer. They make grout sealer, ceramic sealer, natural stone sealer, and others. Therefore, you will want to make sure that you buy the proper sealant for the job. If you are unsure, consult someone at a local tile store before you make a purchase. They should be able to direct you to the proper type of sealant for your tile.

Step 3 - Clean the Floor

Before you seal the floor, you should thoroughly clean the tile floor. If there is any dirt or debris on the floor when it is sealed, it will remain under the sealer and look permanently dirty. You will not be able to clean it without stripping off the sealer. You should start out by taking a dustpan and broom and removing the dirt. Any loose dust that is floating around will be removed in this manner. Then you can mop the floor in your usual manner. Allow the water on the floor to dry sufficiently before moving forward.

Step 4 - Apply the Sealant

Applying the sealant to the tile is a very simple process. If you bought a large amount of sealant, you should be able to dump it into a bucket and then mop it onto the floor. Stick your mop into the bucket and allow it to soak up the sealant. Then mop the floor with the sealant until the entire floor is wet with it. Make sure that you distribute the sealant evenly over the surface of the tile.

Step 5 - Allow it to Dry

Once the sealant has been applied to the tile, you need to allow it to dry before anyone steps on it. Set up some fans to blow over the tile and it will help speed up the drying process.

Step 6 - Apply Again

After the first coat is dry, you are free to apply a second coat to the floor. If the tile and grout soaked up the first coat, you might need a second coat to make sure that everything is sealed up.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Add a Deep Durable Shine to Marble Tiled Flooring

The pictures below are of a Marble tiled floor installed in the hallway of a property at Crakemarsh Hall, near Uttoxeter. The Marble had lost its shine due to several years of wear and was now looking quite flat and uninteresting. This happens with highly polished floors which need to be re-polished every six to 12 months if you want to keep them looking fabulous.

      

Naturally my client had become unhappy with the dull appearance of the stone and I was asked to call round and put the shine back. I viewed the floor and talked them through the polishing process. I left them with a quote which they were happy to accept.

 

Cleaning a Marble Tiled Hallway Floor and Grout

The first job was to clean the floor using a rotary floor machine fitted with a Black pad to scrub in Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which is an effective alkaline tile and grout cleaner. I used a medium dilution of Pro-Clean sprayed onto the tiles and left to soak in for ten minutes before scrubbing.

These pads can struggle to get right into the grout so I used a hand-held scrubbing brush along the grout lines to tackle any stubborn grout stains and dirt hiding in the recesses. The soiling was then rinsed off the floor with water and extracted with a wet vacuum.

Polishing a Marble Tiled Hallway Floor

Work then commenced on polishing the Marble for which I used several grades of diamond burnishing pads starting with a coarse 400-grit. Only water is needed to help lubricate the process and once the pad has been run over each tile at least three times the soiling is rinsed off and extracted with the wet vacuum as before. This process is then repeated with the 800 and 1500-grit pad until you reach the 3000-grit pad which is applied with only a little water sprayed onto the tiles.

Sealing Marble Floor Tiles

To add a deep durable polish to the Marble I then applied Tile Doctor Polishing Powder which is spread over the floor ground into the marble using a White polishing pad. I also went around the edges with a handheld buffing machine fitted with smaller 6" pads.

 

I finished the floor by using a super high speed burnishing machine fitted with a White polishing pad to remove any marks left on the floor. My client was so happy that they have booked in for an annual Maintenance clean for next year to keep the floor in top condition.

 

Before leaving I also encouraged then to clean the floor using Tile Doctor Stone Soap which is a mild but effective cleaning solution that helps maintain the patina on polished stone. Many of the floor cleaning products you find in supermarkets are simply too strong for use on a sealed floor.

Source: Marble Floor Cleaning and Polishing Service in Uttoxeter Staffordshire

Non-Slip Floor Covering

Installing non-slip floor covering can provide you with a much safer flooring surface to walk on. This is essential for many elderly people that are in danger of falling on a slick floor. Here are a few options that you have for non-slip floor covering.

Carpet

Carpet is one of the most basic forms of non-slip floor covering available. You can get in a variety of different styles and colors and it is one of the least expensive options. There is even outdoor carpet that you can use if you are worried about falling in an outdoor space.

Tile

Another great option that you have for non-slip floor covering is to use tile. Many ceramic and porcelain tiles have very rough finishes that would be ideal for a non-slip flooring surface. Some tiles are even made with tiny ridges with this in mind. This is going to be more expensive than carpet.

Rubber Flooring

Another great option for a non-slip flooring surface is rubber flooring. Rubber flooring provide you with great traction and durability. Many people use this in garages and workout rooms. Rubber flooring is very heavy and will be a little more difficult to install than some of your other options that are available.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com 

4 Supplies You Need to Tile

 If you plan on doing it yourself, you will need several supplies to tile a floor. Here are a few of the most commonly used supplies for a tile installation.

1. Wet Saw

One of the most important tools for you to have is a wet saw. A wet saw is a type of saw that is specifically designed to cut tile. It shoots a stream of water onto the tile while you are putting it so it will not chip or break.

2. Trowel

A trowel is another tool that you are going to need for this job. A trowel will be necessary to spread out the tile adhesive on the floor. You can also use a trowel to apply the grout after you are done installing the tile.

3. Adhesive

In order to install tile, you are going to need some adhesive. You could potentially use thinset or mastic depending on your preference. Mastic comes pre-mixed in buckets and most thinset comes in large bags that you have to mix with water. In most cases, thinset is going to be less expensive.

4. Tile Spacers

Tile spacers are something else that you are going to need in order to lay tile. These are used to ensure the proper spacing between the tiles.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Water Damage: Hardwood Floor Replacement

Hardwood floor replacement is nearly always necessary after suffering severe water damage, follow these steps to check the sub-floor below the hardwood floor for damage, repair and replace sections of the sub-floor as needed, and then replace the hardwood floor. 

What You'll Need:

• Measuring tape, pencil and paper
•  Portable circular saw
•  Power screwdriver
•  Power drill with 2-inch bit
•  Sub-floor segments
•  Acoustic underlay foam sheeting
•  Hammer and finish nails
•  Framing nailer
•  2-1/2 inch framing nails
•  Flooring nailer
•  1-1/2 inch L-shaped cleats
•  Air compressor
•  Tongue and groove hardwood planks, 3/4 inch thick

Assess the Depth of Damage

Examine all the hardwood-floored rooms that were flooded. Places where the boards have popped up, split or cracked may indicate sub-floor damage. Go down to the basement and check the sub-floor and the main floor joists below your hardwood floor. If any of the sub-floor sections or joists are warped and damp, those sections will need to be replaced before you install new hardwood flooring. Installing new hardwood over a damaged sub-floor will cause the hardwood planks to lift, buckle and warp.

Remove the Old Hardwood Flooring

Remove all the furniture from the room. Remove the baseboards to determine if the hardwood flooring goes under the wall. If so, you will need to cut the old hardwood planks at the wall edge. If you are removing parquet hardwood flooring, use a glue dissolver to melt off old glue stuck to the sub-floor.

Repair the Sub-floor

Measure all the sub-floor sections that need replacing, and purchase sub-floor plywood or softwood planks larger than the damaged parts. Drill a hole through the center of the damaged sub-floor section to gauge the thickness of the subfloor.

Set the circular saw's cutting depth to that dimension, and cut away the damaged sub-floor completely. Cut the sub-floor sections to fit precisely with the circular saw. Nail the new sub-flooring sections directly to the floor joists with the framing nailer, attached to the air compressor.

Replace the Hardwood Flooring

If you live in an area of high humidity, allow the new flooring to cure and adjust to the air moisture before you install it. Check the sub-floor thoroughly before you begin to install the hardwood. Look for nails or staples protruding from the sub-floor and sink them below the surface.

If the room is over a concrete basement, lay down some acoustic underlay foam as a sound barrier. Start laying the hardwood planks at the straightest wall. Put a 1/4-inch spacer between the first plank and the wall to leave room for the baseboard. Snap a chalk line across the sub-floor to give a straight baseline for all the planks.

Fasten the first plank to the sub-floor with its groove facing the wall, using finish nails. Nail down subsequent planks with the flooring nailer. Lay out the hardwood so plank ends are staggered at least 3 inches apart in adjoining rows. Reinstall the previous baseboards, or purchase new baseboard trim if the baseboards also suffered water damage.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Install Bamboo Click Flooring

 The beauty and efficiency ofbamboo click flooringmay depend on the installation process on some levels. At the onset of the development of bamboo floors, staples and glues were used to keep the floor in place. However, because of the evolution of technology, it is now very easy to install bamboo click flooring like a pro. Your flooring receives a professional touch without the professional price. All you have to consider is the space for the expansion in the bamboo planks.

As observed and attested by those who have already triedbamboo click flooring, installing them is quite easy and the following steps can help you further.

Step one

The area of the house where you would like to install yourbamboo click flooringshould be free from dust and debris. It should be meticulously cleaned with a broom or a vacuum cleaner. You should also remove nails, screws, pins, and other materials that might have stuck in the corners or side edges of the room. If there are noticeable gaps on the floor, it is necessary to fill these gaps with leveling compounds to even out the surface.

Step two

There should be a moisture barrier on the concrete sub-floors. This structure is needed to thwart the water from leaking and damaging the bamboo. It is advisable to have at least a six-millimeter layer of plastic. On the other hand, it is no longer necessary to use this layer of plastic if you have wooden sub-floors.

Step three

Check the moisture barrier. It should be evened out. After checking, spread a sheet of foam padding if you have a concrete sub-floor.

Step four

It is always good to start at the corner of your room. When you place thebamboo click flooring, make sure to use tile spacers so that they are placed close to the wall. After the measurement, place the first cut of bamboo flooring in the angle. A point that you should remember with bamboo flooring is that it expands more than the standard laminate so the gap between the bamboo tiles should be a little bit bigger.

Step five

Take the second piece of bamboo flooring and place its smaller end next to the head of the first piece. Glide the second piece carefully into the furrow on the next board. As you vigilantly place it, wait until you hear it click into place. Again, be reminded to make use of spacers to keep enough distance from the wall.

Step six

Cut your third tile using the table saw. This will help you create a staggered but beautiful natural look on yourbamboo click flooring. If you are done cutting, place the cut end of the tile in front of the wall. It should be lengthwise next to the first board. Then place the tongue into the furrow and gently lower it until it fits into place. Use a mallet or hammer to fasten the tile in place.

Step seven

Place the fourth tile beside the second board. Gently lower it in place as you slot the tongue into the furrow on the second board. Slip it along the groove until it runs a bit against the third board. The fourth tile should slip into the head of the third board. Then pat it in place using a mallet.

Step eight

Repeat the same process interchanging tiles from one row to the other until you arrive at the next wall. Cut the boards and shape them if needed. Do the tiling row by row until you reach the last part of the room. Always be mindful of the spaces between the tiles for expansion.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How To Install Laminate Flooring On Stairs

Installing new laminate flooring on stairs is a good idea when covering stairs making them easier to maintain and keep clean than stairs covered in carpet. You should be warned though that laminating steps can make them more dangerous as they can be quite slippery (especially when wet) if you choose laminates of lower grade rating meant for lesser traffic areas.

There are a few ways to get around the slip and fall hazards by using a higher and more abrasive grade, another being the installation of an additional anti-slip device onto the threads. This being said, your laminate stair threads will hold up well and will not need to be replaced as frequently as carpet stairs.

What You'll Need:

• Laminate
• Construction adhesive
• Measuring tape
• Pencil
• Square
• Electric circular saw

Step 1 - Prepare the Stairs

If the stairs you want to refinish are carpeted, remove all of the carpet and the adhesive below. Clean the stairs completely to make sure your new laminate flooring will adhere well to the surface. Smooth out the surface of the stairs and pound down any nails that stick up.

Step 2 - Set the First Tile

Measure the top thread to determine its exact center and mark that point with a pencil. Put the first laminate tile over the mark, making sure that the center of the tile is exactly over the mark.

Step 3 - Work Your Way Outward

Installing laminate flooring on stairs will require much more stability than provided by a floating floor system, so don't use underlayment. On such installations, you should instead always glue the laminates down to the treads and risers with a good grade construction adhesive.

Moving your way from the center to the left and then the center to the right, cover the entire thread. Move to the riser face and continue the same process.

When you have completed the first thread and riser, move down to the next step and repeat the process. Continue all the way down the stairs until they are all covered.

Maintaining Your Stairs

Keep your new laminate stairs free from debris that can scuff or scratch the tiles when the stairs are in use. Stairs outside of a home should never be covered with laminate as this would leave them extremely slippery when getting wet from snow or from rain, and they should always be covered instead with a much more abrasive and safe alternative.

Laminate flooring has become one of the most popular choices in flooring because of its durability, ease of installation, and low price. It is a great way for homeowners to bring the look of hardwood into their home without the added expense and maintenance concerns.

Laminate floor tiles, such as the ones that are used on stairs, are resistant to many problems, but they still must be kept clean and free of loose debris. Keep the floors from becoming excessively wet to prevent water and moisture damage.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Remove Excess Grout from Brick Slip Bathroom Flooring in Saxilby Lincoln

I was asked if I could improve the look of this new bathroom floor that had been laid with brick slips in a herringbone pattern at a property in Saxilby near Lincoln. The builder had done a solid job of laying the bricks but had been overzealous on the grouting and was unable to remove all of it resulting in a whitening of the red bricks due to grout haze. Unhappy with the appearance of their new bathroom floor and with little chance of resolution with the builder they contacted Tile Doctor to see what could be done to improve their appearance.

 

Brick Slip tiles are basically a very thin brick which allows it to be laid like a tile, normally they are cut from an actual clay brick although there are other types. Thin like a tile and light weight they can be used to quickly create authentic looking brick walls and floors.

I visited the property to understand the problems and whilst I was there, I carried out a test clean to show the client what could be achieved. They were happy with what I showed them and booked me in to have the work done.

 

Removing Grout Haze from Brick Slip Flooring

To remove the grout haze, I started off with an application of Grout Clean-up which contains phosphoric acid and is designed exactly for this purpose. It was a small space to work in so the product was scrubbed into the tile by hand until I got them as clean as possible. This was followed by a quick rinse and extraction with a wet vacuum.

I then inspected the floor and could see more work was required so this time I laid down Acid Gel which is a blend of Phosphoric and Hydrochloric acids and left it to dwell for ten minutes. After another scrub I was pleased to see I had managed to remove all the grout haze and the red brick was really starting to come through. I then gave the floor a thorough rinse with water and then removed the soiling and as much moisture as possible with the wet vacuum. I left the floor to dry off whilst I went to lunch leaving an air mover in place to assist with the drying.

 

Sealing Brick Slip Flooring

Once it had dried the floor was then sealed using Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is a colour enhancing product that as the name suggests improves colour in the tile, it’s also an impregnator which works by occupying the pores in the brick protecting it from within.

 

The client was over the moon and said that is how they wanted it to look originally. For cleaning I made the client aware of the problem of using harsh cleaning products on sealed tiles and advised them to use Neutral Tile Cleaner which is a mild but effective cleaner that won’t erode the sealer with regular use.

 

Source: Grout Haze Removal Service in Saxilby Lincolnshire

How to Glue Engineered Hardwood Floors

Gluing engineered hardwood floors is not a difficult job. If you take your time and have everything ready, you should be able to lay a room in a day. Don't skimp on adhesive, buy a good hardwood floor glue.

Remove the Baseboards

Remove your baseboards as they will not usually be the right height to slide the new floor. Make a chalk line on the floor 31 inches from, and parallel to the longest wall (across the floor beams). Pre-sort the boards according to color according to your likes. You may need to trim the door casing if it will not swing easily over the new floorboards.

If you are installing your engineered floor over tiles, use a grinder or sander to smooth down the surface of the tiles and allow the glue to adhere to them. Sweep or mop up any dirt before filling in any holes or gaps. Vacuum any dust. If you are starting with a linoleum floor, remove the linoleum first.

Nail Down a Straight Edge

Take a straight-edged piece of plywood and nail it into place along the chalk line, on the inside of the line.

Spread the Glue

Trowel glue on a 20-inch strip according to the directions on the adhesive can, using the trowel. Don't spread more glue than you can cover within the open time of the glue or there will be a poor bond. It is better to do smaller areas at a time. If you get glue on your fingers, clean them immediately with solvent or you could get stuck to the wood. It will not come off easily when it has dried.

Glue Down the Boards

Kneeling in the 31-inch area, line up the tongues of the boards against the straight edge. Working from left to right, press the board into the glue. Before you use each piece, discard any ones that are warped or you are not happy with. If necessary, tap the boards into place with a rubber mallet. Make sure you only glue the bottom of the boards, the boards will not fit tightly if the grooves are filled with glue. Don't line up two end splices at the same place, they should be 6 inches apart. Cut the pieces at the end using the miter saw.

Fill the Original Gap

When you have finished the main section, remove the original straight edge and install the flooring to fill the gap. You will now be fitting groove into your tongue instead of the other way round as you work in the opposite direction.

Roll the Floor

There should be a rolling weight value on the adhesive can. It will probably be around 100 pounds. Don't let the glue get too dry before you roll. Rolling seats the wood firmly into the glue and squeezes out blobs; this is difficult if the glue has dried.

Cover the rollers with tape or foam sheets to avoid damaging the floor.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

A Guide to Bamboo Flooring Hardness

The subject of bamboo flooring hardness is commonly debated in the market. Some people say that bamboo is extremely hard and durable. Others argue that it is easy to dent and is not very hard. Here are a few things to consider about the hardness of bamboo flooring.

Janka Scale

When looking at the hardness of bamboo or hardwood flooring, the industry uses a tool called the Janka scale. This is a scale that is used to compare the hardness of wood flooring against each other. In order to perform this test, they drop a steel ball bearing on the floor from a particular height. Depending on how it reacts to having a ball dropped on it, it will achieve a score on the scale. The higher the score, the harder the wood is.

Carbonized Bamboo

One type of bamboo that many people consider is carbonized bamboo. Carbonizing bamboo is a process that is used to change the color of the bamboo. If you see a dark, caramel color bamboo, generally it was made this way by carbonization. When a bamboo goes through this process, it is going to make it softer. This is the softest type of bamboo that you can purchase. On the Janka scale, it has a score of 1180. This is softer than red oak, as it has a score of 1290. This means that it is the most susceptible to dents and scratches of all of the different kinds of bamboo on the market.

Natural Bamboo

Another type of bamboo is natural bamboo. This is a very common type of bamboo that you frequently see in the market. You will be able to tell that it is natural bamboo by the yellowish, gold color in the floor. Natural bamboo is a little bit harder than carbonized bamboo. On the Janka scale it has a value of 1380.

Strand Woven Bamboo

The hardest and most durable form of bamboo flooring is called strand woven bamboo. This type of bamboo flooring is made differently than traditional bamboo flooring. In order to construct this, they use small slivers of bamboo fibers. They take the pieces of bamboo and mix it together with a strong adhesive and resin. They take this mixture and press it together very tightly. It is constructed under extreme heat as well. Once the mixture is pressed together, they allow it to dry and it forms a very hard board. On the Janka scale, it can achieve values as much as 3000. This is comparable to some of the hardest hardwoods in the world.

Compared to Hardwood

Although people use the Janka scale to compare hardness, there are other factors that you need to consider as well. Pieces of bamboo are held together with adhesive. If something sharp drops on the surface of the bamboo, it will be much more likely to scratch or dent when compared to a hardwood with an equal Janka scale rating.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Lay Tile Properly

In order to lay tile properly, there are a number of steps that have to be followed. Laying tile is something that most people can do if they have the proper knowledge. Here are the basics of how to lay tile properly.

What You'll Need:

• Tile
• Adhesive
• Trowel
• Wet saw
• Tile spacers
• Grout
• Grout float
• Bucket
• Tape measure
• Chalk line
• Concrete board
• Hammer
• Nails

 Measure

Start out by measuring the room in which you are going to install the tile. You need to get the dimensions of the room. Multiply the length and the width to get the square footage of the room. You will then need to add 10 percent to that number to allow for waste.

Prepare the Room

You will need to move everything out of the room and take up any old floor. You need to get down to the subfloor. If you have a concrete subfloor, you can lay the tile directly onto it. If you have a wood subfloor, you are going to need to install a concrete board. Put some tile adhesive on the bottom of the concrete board and then nail it down to the floor.

Mark Center

In most cases, you are going to want to lay the tile from the center of the room out towards the wall. This is going to center the tile and make it look more professional. In order to do this, you need to measure the center point of both walls and snap a chalk line in both directions. Where the lines cross is where you should start laying your tile.

Spread Adhesive

You will now want to spread out some of the adhesives onto the ground. Using your trowel, place some tile adhesive on the ground and spread it out evenly. Make sure that there are no uneven spots in the adhesive.

Place the Tile

Take your first tile and press it down into the adhesive firmly. Make sure that there are no gaps in the adhesive underneath and that it is solidly down in the adhesive. Put a tile spacer on each corner of the first tile.

Continue Laying

Take your next tile and press it directly up against the tile spacers from the first tile. Make sure that the second tile is pressed firmly down into the tile adhesive. Place tile spacers around the second tile as well. Continue putting tiles up against the previous tile and using the spacers for alignment.

Cutting the Tiles

When you get to a wall or the cabinet, you are going to need to make a cut. In order to do this, measure the appropriate size that you need and then place the tile in your wet saw to make the cut.

Dry

After the entire floor has been laid, you are going to want to allow the adhesive to dry overnight.

Grout

You will then need to remove the tile spacers and start grouting. Use your grout float to apply the grout to the grout joints. When you are done, use a sponge and water to clean the tops of the tiles. This will remove any extra grout and smooth everything out. Let the grout dry overnight before anyone walks on it.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Putting the Shine Back on Encaustic Floor Tiles in Hemswell Cliff Lincolnshire

The photographs below are of an Encaustic Tiled Floor which had been installed some years prior in the kitchen of at a property in the village of Hemswell Cliff which is between Gainsborough and Market Rasen.

I paid a visit to the property initially to survey the floor and discuss the problem with the client. The main issue was the tiles had become dull and she couldn't keep them clean. I explained that Encaustic tiles are porous and need to be kept sealed to prevent the dirt from becoming ingrained in its pores; over the years since installation the sealer had simply worn down and now dirt was getting into the pores of the tile and once that happens it can be difficult to get it out. 

To prove my point, I carried out a demonstration on how I would clean them and explained the different sealer options available and how each sealer can have a different effect. She was pleased with the demonstration and was happy to accept my quote to deep clean the whole floor and then re-seal it.

Deep Cleaning Encaustic Kitchen Floor Tiles

I set about scrubbing the floor using a hot water dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean Tile and Grout cleaner combined 50:50 with NanoTech HBU Remover which adds tiny abrasive particles to the solution to make a more effective cleaning product. The solution was worked into the tiles by scrubbing with a rotary machine fitted with a Black scrubbing pad.

The pads struggle to reach into the recesses between the tiles so to get the grout clean I scrubbed them by hand using a stiff brush. Once done the soiled solution was removed using a wet vacuum and floor inspected to ensure it was as clean as possible. Any stubborn areas were spot treated by hand and then the whole area thoroughly rinsed down with clean water to remove any trace of cleaning product.

Finally, the wet vacuum was used to dry the floor as much as possible with assistance from a Turbo Air blower to help reduce the drying time.

 

Sealing Encaustic Floor Tiles

It wasn’t a particularly large floor and a warm day so I was able to complete the cleaning process by lunch time and after a few hours later with the assistance of the air blower the floor was dry and ready to be sealed.

Having discussed sealer choice with the client earlier a decision had been made to seal the encaustic tiles with Tile Doctor Seal and Go which adds a nice subtle sheen to the tile. Five coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go were needed before the tiles were fully sealed, it’s a water based protective sealer so it doesn’t give off any odour whilst it dries and it provided the finish the customer was looking for.

Once completed the colours in the tiles were really vivid and resulted in one happy customer with a clean easy to maintain floor. On the subject of cleaning, I recommended the use of Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner which is a mild but effective tile cleaner. The problem with many of the tile cleaning products you find in supermarkets is they contain bleach which is simply too strong for use on a sealed tile as it will strip off the sealer.

Source: Encaustic Floor Cleaning and Sealing Services in Hemswell Cliff Lincolnshire

How to Finish Walnut Flooring

Walnut flooring is a great way to add beautiful detail to your home. The strongest type of walnut flooring is Brazilian flooring which is ideal for kitchen flooring. Brazilian walnut flooring is more durable compared to the standard black walnut flooring. It is also three times more durable than oak.

Applying finish to your walnut flooring will increase the lifespan of your walnut flooring as well as protect it from damaging elements such as water. Below are the materials that you need along with the instructions on how to finish walnut flooring.

What You'll Need:

• Trisodium phosphate
•  Wood putty
•  #36-, 80-, 100-, 220-grit sandpapers
•  Drum sander
•  Edging sander
•  Wet/dry vacuum
•  Tact cloth
•  Wood sealer
•  Stain
•  Polyurethane
•  Orbital sander

Step 1—Floor Cleaning

Using warm water and trisodium phosphate, clean your floor well. Be sure to rid it of all grease, dirt, debris, and dust particles. Let the floor dry for a few minutes prior to sanding.

Step 2—Prepare the Wood Surface

Make sure to sink all protruding nails back into the wood of your floor. If you find any cracks or holes, use your wood putty to fill them in. Allow the wood putty to dry first before proceeding to Step 3.

Step 3—Sanding

Use a drum sander (such as a 36-inch drum sander) to sand the floor. If you encounter sections of the floor that were missed by the sander, you can manually fix that with your edger. Sanders can usually be rented at your local equipment rental store.

Step 4—Use a Vacuum Cleaner

Remove all residue of the sawdust generated from the sanding. Use either a wet or dry vacuum to clean up the floor.

Step 5—Second Sanding

Using 80-grit sandpaper, sand the floor a second time. Also, be sure to vacuum the floor to rid it of sawdust after sanding.

Step 6—Third Sanding

Using 100-grit sandpaper, sand the floor again as with the previous steps. Vacuum the area again. You can use a tack cloth to remove the dust found in between floorboards.

Step 7—Apply Sealer

Apply the wood sealer onto the floor to close the wood’s pores in order to avoid blotching or streaking when you apply the stain.

Step 8—Apply Stain

Coat your floor with the stain using a brush. You can also use clean pieces of cloth or rags to apply the stain. When applying the stain, make sure to follow the grain of the wood. Leave the stain on the wood for 30 seconds up to 15 minutes. Allow the stain to dry on the wood completely before proceeding to Step 9.

Step 9—Stir Polyurethane

Stir the polyurethane to equally distribute the solvents, all the particles, and the solids that are found at the bottom. Slowly stir so as to not create air bubbles in the polyurethane.

Step 10—Brush Polyurethane

Carefully brush the polyurethane to coat your walnut flooring. Brush the polyurethane in the wood grain’s direction. Allow it to dry.

Step 11—Fourth Sanding

Using an orbital sander with 220-grit sandpaper, sand the walnut flooring again and vacuum after. Repeat steps 10 and 11.

Step 12—Brush Another Coat Of Polyurethane

Coat the floor again with another layer of polyurethane. Make sure that this dries before you bring back your furniture into your room and onto your new walnut flooring.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Lancashire Stone Expert Details how to Resurface Old Flagstones using Coarse Milling Pads

 The client said when he moved into this house in Lytham St Annes late last year that this room had a really bad smell of damp. The Flagstone floor was covered in carpet and he had the impression that the previous owner’s cat had been known to use it as place to pee!

   

The smell was rank and probably bad for your health so he decided to remove the carpet and the thick underlay underneath. Under that there was some old Vinyl flooring which all came out to reveal the original flagstone floor. As you can see from the pictures it was in a poor state covered in red and white paint, bits of bitumen here and there and the pointing had been lost in several areas of the floor. Additionally, all those layers over the stone would have prevented any moisture from naturally evaporating at the surface thereby resulting in damp.

 

The client had seen what we could do on our website and sent us some pictures of his floor which covered approximately 16m2. I priced for milling the flagstone as a deep clean would not resolve the shaling issues on its own and only a good mill of the stone would do that. Also, it needed all the pointing that was still in place knocking out and new flexible breathable pointing put back in place.

 

Cleaning and Repairing a Flagstone Tiled Hallway Floor

Milling stone is not a low-cost option, but it is a lot more cost effective than pulling up the whole floor and putting in a modern subfloor. Milling involves using a weighted buffing machine fitted with different grits and grades of coarse Diamond encrusted pads which cut into the surface of the stone to reveal new stone underneath, you then apply finer pads to hone and refine the surface.

In this case I used a set of Tile Doctor Milling Pads applied in sequence starting with 50-grit, 100-grit and then 200-grit. Water is used to lubricate the process and keep the dust down, it’s also important to rinse the stone off after each pad and extract the slurry that is generated with a wet vacuum.

The floor was then cleaned with Tile Doctor Remove and Go allowing the product to soak in for ten minutes to loosen deep seated paint staining. The Tile Doctor Remove and Go was then worked in with another 200-grit pad before another rinse and extract again with the wet vacuum.

Older floors like this were installed before the invention of the damp proof membrane so moisture is always a concern. To counter any issues that might develop later such as Efflorescence the last step in the cleaning process was to give the floor an acid rinse using Tile Doctor Grout Clean-up, this neutralises any latent salts trapped in the subfloor.

 

Sealing a Flagstone Tiled Hallway Floor

The milling, re-pointing and cleaning work took two days and we returned for a third day to apply a breathable sealer called Tile Doctor X-Tra Seal. This product is fully breathable and a great choice for any floors where damp can be a problem as it will allow for moisture to rise through the stone and evaporate at the surface. Being oil-based it also adds character to natural stone and adds an appealing low satin finish.

 

The whole process completely transformed the appearance of the flagstone floor and really suits the property which was a late Victorian four-story house with a basement. Original features like this are very sought after so it makes sense to restore them as it will add value.

 

An additional advantage of the milling process is it also reduces the roughness of the stone surface makes it smoother and easier to clean. On the topic of cleaning its worth mentioning that you should never use a strong bleach-based tile cleaning product on a sealed floor as it will erode the sealer prematurely. For a floor like this you need to use a product like Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner which is a mild but effective cleaning product designed for use on sealed tile and stone.

Source: Flagstone Floor Restoration Services in Lytham St Annes Lancashire

5 Tips to Protect Your Hardwood Floors and Plumbing From Winter

Winterizing your home is a necessary project to take on if you live in colder temperatures. Failing to do so puts home owners at risk of facing costly repairs and consequences come spring. In order to prepare your home for the dropping temperatures, we spoke to experts in the wood renewal and plumbing industries to learn essential tips.

Hardwood Floors - Dave Murphy, Training Director for N-Hance Wood Renewal, a national franchise that is the trusted partner of The Home Depot for the renewal of hardwood floors and kitchen cabinets, provided us with tips on how to protect wood floors:

Prevent Rock Salt Damage

Rock salt can cause severe damage to hardwood floors. Not only can it stain the floor, but the rough crystals can scratch it up. Some people say that salt stains can be cleaned with vinegar and water. However, this method should be avoided. Vinegar can leave residue and excess water can ruin hardwood floors.

To help prevent the problem in the first place, place a sturdy mat both inside and outside of every entrance of your home and have guests remove their shoes upon entering. Furthermore, homeowners should sweep frequently, and mop when needed with a neutral floor cleaner to help protect floors from salt buildup.

Prevent Shrinkage from Dry Air

During the winter, in the air dryness and temperature change can cause hardwood floors to shrink, which creates spaces between boards. If the humidity is not right, it can cause a lot of damage to the floors. Homeowners should have a humidifier on hand and keep the humidity level as constant as possible throughout the year. The same goes for temperature. Huge swings in temperature cause the wood to shrink and expand.

Drain Excess Water

In order to prevent your garden hoses and air conditioner pipes from freezing, be sure to always drain them before the cold temperatures arrive. A frozen garden hose can become the source of various issues, such as a decrease in water pressure or a weakening in the lining of the hose, while a frozen air conditioner line can cause leaks or breaks in the unit. Also, make sure you turn off the AC water shut-off valve.

Insulate Your Pipes

By insulting pipes, you will not only help prevent them from freezing, but it can potentially allow you to save money on bills. It will reduce the amount of time it takes for your water to heat up and will raise temperatures by a couple degrees. The most important pipes to insulate are ones located in areas of your house that aren’t heated, such as in the garage or attic.

Clean Your Gutters

It is essential to make sure your gutters are cleaned before freezing temperatures hit your area. If water can’t flow freely through your gutters, icicles can form causing damage to shingles and backing up the gutter. This leads to clogs, water leaks and various other unexpected issues.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

The Dangers of Grout Sealer

The Grout sealer serves as extra protection to keep moisture and dirt from soaking down into the grout. Some even offer UV protection. Grout sealers, like other chemical-based components, can cause health issues if you are not careful when using them. Grout sealers can be applied using a brush or by spraying it on.

Harmful Chemicals

Since there are various harmful chemicals contained in most sealers, it is recommended to use them in properly ventilated areas. Sometimes, the vapors from the grout sealer can be so strong that you can get such symptoms as shortness of breath, cough, and chest pain, wheezing, and rales if too much is inhaled. Respiratory problems are a very serious reaction to not taking precautions when using grout sealers. It is always good to step out and get some fresh air frequently when using a grout sealer. If your breathing does not seem to get better, seek medical help. Wash your eyes if they come in contact with the sealer and seek medical help.

Catches Fire Easily

The fumes are so strong that if they are left out in the sun and heat for an extended period of time, the fumes and vapors in the container could actually catch on fire. Protect your skin and your eyes by wearing gloves and safety goggles while using the grout sealer.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Easily Install Marmoleum Flooring

 Marmoleum flooring is the newest ‘green’ floor choice among many homeowners today. The materials that go into this type of floor are natural, they do not emit toxins. That makes it an environmentally-friendly floor choice. It is durable, soft, and comfortable to walk on, which does not require much maintenance and does not attract dust. It is also resistant to spills and stains, very easy to clean, and is anti-bacterial. Installing Marmoleum flooring is environmental-friendly as solvent-free adhesives can be used. Follow the step-by-step guide below to install Marmoleum flooring.

What You'll Need:

• Speed square
• Solvent-free adhesives
• Sealer
• Cement
• Water
• Marmoleum flooring
• Utility knife
• Square-notched trowel (1/16 by 1/16 inches)
• Chalk line
• Steel hand roller
• Putty knife
• Hammer
• 100lb roller
• Scribing tool
• Hook knife
• Screwdriver
• Gloves
• Scrapper
• Mudding knife
• Sandpaper
• Hairspray
• Under-scribe tool
• Acrylic sealer

Remove Any Obstacles

Wear gloves for protection from cuts. Scan and remove any obstacles, such as screws, nails, and staples, from the floor. If there are any nails sticking up, use a hammer to pound them down. Use a screwdriver to screw down any screws that are raised. Pull out any staples found. Briefly scan and run over the floor using a scraper to be sure that all obstacles have been removed.

Fill Seams

Mix the cement with water until it is sticky. Then, spread a layer of the cement mixture over low spots and all seams with a mudding knife. Spread it smoothly so that less sanding is required later on. Allow the cement to air dry.

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Smooth Floor

After the cement is dry, scrape the excess hardened cement off using a putty knife. Sanding with sandpaper may be required to make it smooth.

Mark Border Layout

After the seams are smoothed out, mark an indication of the layout of the border with a chalk line. To prevent the chalk line from smudging, spray a little bit of hairspray.

Install Border Pieces

Pre-cut and dry-fit the border pieces before gluing down permanently. Use a speed square to cut a 45-degree angle with a utility knife, where the border pieces meet. This is to have the joint mitered. Take the borders up. Using the square notched trowel, spread the solvent-free adhesive. Then, lay down the border pieces immediately into their correct places. Use a steel hand roller to run over the border pieces to make sure that all the edges are glued down. Do a cut at the bottom of the mitered joint so that it overlaps the piece on the top. Mark the top piece with a scribing tool and utility knife. Then, use a hook knife to finish and get the perfect cut.

Install the Main Floor

Lay the flooring loosely. Roughly cut it with an extra inch at the borders. Fold the main flooring in half and spread the adhesive on the exposed half. Then, unfold the flooring back onto the floor and glue it down immediately. Use the 100-lb roller to run over the flooring to ensure that it is glued down properly and also to remove any air bubbles.

Trim and Finish the Floor

After the entire floor is glued down, trim each edge with an under-scribe tool. Be sure that there is adhesive underneath the edges. Use the 100-lb roller to re-roll the whole floor again. Then, apply a few coats of acrylic sealer to finish the floor.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Amazing Restoration of a Victorian Path in South London

Here we have an old Victorian tiled path in front of a property in Battersea which was very much worse for wear. Tiled in a red and black diamond pattern it had seen a lot of use and weathering and the owner now wanted it renovating or improving at the very least.

 

I was asked to pop over to the property, survey the path and provide a quote for its restoration. Hopefully you can appreciate from the photographs the numerous cracks and missing tiles. It was certainly going to need a lot of work to improve its appearance, which I was happy to do but I had to lower the expectations of the owner as it would never be perfect. We agreed a price for the work and booked the job in.

 

Repairing a Victorian Tiled Pathway

Before starting work we tried to source salvaged tiles that would blend in with the originals, but unfortunately, we couldn't find any that were a close enough match, so had to make do with modern tiles. These are still suitable but the metric sizing makes it a little tricker.

Work started by digging out the broken and loose tiles and then cleaning what could be salvaged. Once removed the base was then cleared of debris and where required rebuilt with cement. There were numerous affected areas, so it took quite some time to complete. Finally with the preparation done the tiles were re-laid using a mixture of original and new. The new tiles being metric had to be cut to shape as needed. The repair work was extensive and took two days to complete.

 

Cleaning a Victorian Tiled Pathway

On day three the replaced tiles had set, and I was able to clean up the whole path by scrubbing in Tile Doctor Oxy-Gel which being a gel cleaner doesn't require a lot of water. This was then followed by giving the path an acid rinse using Tile Doctor Acid Gel which further cleans the tiles and again being in gel format doesn’t require a lot of water and is much easier to control. After each stage in the cleaning process the soils were extracted with a wet vacuum.

I recommend the use of gel cleaners on old tiles like this example as they were laid before the invention of the damp proof membrane and less water means it dries quicker. This was important as it was planning to apply a sealer the next day and the tiles must be dry to achieve the best result.

 

Sealing a Victorian Tiled Pathway

The weather held out and after leaving the path to dry overnight I confirmed they were dry the next morning with a damp meter. Two coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow sealer were applied to the tiles which is a fully breathable sealer that works by soaking into the tile, occupying the pores and thereby preventing dirt from becoming ingrained there. With the dirt forced to remain on the surface they are much easier to clean. This product also contains a colour enhancing formula which helps improve the deep Red and Black colours in the tile.

 

The tiles responded very well to the treatment and transformed the appearance of the path. Expecting only a small improvement my client was over them moon with the difference.

 

Source: Victorian Path Restoration Services in South London