Maintaining Travertine Floors

This Porcelain Terracotta floor had dark grout and the home owner wanted the colour changing to lighten the floor. There are a number of products on the market for this purpose including grout colour pens which are ok for a quick touch up but for a large area like this you really need to use the range recommend by Tile Doctor which not only change the colour but also provides a protective barrier that seals the grout as well ensuring it keeps it appearance well into the future.

Preparing the Grout

Before applying a Grout Colour it’s important to ensure the grout is clean of grease and dirt; Tile Doctor Pro-Clean is a strong alkaline cleaner that’s good for this purpose, for best results you should allow the cleaner to dwell for a while and then get into the grout joints by hand with a stiff brush. Last step is to rinse the floor down with clean water to remove any remaining cleaning product, I recommend the use of a wet vacuum at this point to remove liquids from the floor.

Applying the Grout Colour

Once the grout has dried you can start applying the colourant which is a relatively straightforward process of squeezing the product onto a toothbrush and running it onto the grout. Don’t be tempted to use an old toothbrush for this purpose as it may contaminate the colourant leading to discolouration in the finish. The product sets in a couple of hours so I was able to do the whole floor in a day.

   

Source: Travertine Floor Maintenance in Mortlake, Surrey

How to Cut Into Terrazzo Flooring

Developed in ancient times, terrazzo flooring is one of the most durable and beautiful floor coverings ever invented. Occasionally you will need to cut into terrazzo flooring to repair or replace a worn spot. Follow the steps outlined below to cut into a terrazzo floor.

What you'll need

• Diamond blade masonry wet saw
• Industrial 480-volt shot blaster
• Sledge hammer
• Large cold chisel
• Safety glasses
• Large noise-reducing ear protectors
• Vibration-absorbing gloves

Step 1: Determine If Your Terrazzo Floor Is Poured Aggregate or Tiles

It is easy to tell if your terrazzo floor is poured aggregate or tiles. Look for thin silvery seams down the edges of a hallway, and around large 48-inch squares on the floor to distinguish a terrazzo tile floor. The tiles will be about 1 inch (25 mm) thick. If your floor has no visible seams or tile markers, it is most likely poured concrete terrazzo.

Step 2: Choose the Most Suitable Method to Cut into the Floor

Use a shot blaster on a poured aggregate floor. This material is too dense and irregular to be cut with a diamond blade saw. To cut into a tile floor, you can use a circular masonry saw and a diamond blade, cooled with water from a bottom-mounted hose.

Step 3: Using a Shot Blaster

A shot blaster breaks up the surface of poured aggregate terrazzo, concrete and other masonry. It prepares these surfaces for filling of holes and cracks with resin and fresh aggregate as needed. The shot blaster provides dustless cutting. It pummels the surface of the terrazzo with tiny steel pellets from a centrifugal wheel at high velocity. A separator picks up unwanted contaminants and the steel pellets, removing the contaminants and recycling the pellets back into the centrifuge. The shot blaster will also etch the surface, so adhesives and epoxies will stick better. Small pellets provide fine surface etching, while large pellets dig in more deeply. A shot blaster must be operated by a trained technician.

Step 4: Prepare to Cut With the Diamond Blade Masonry Wet Saw

Prepare an entry point for the saw blade by creating a deep chip at a corner of the terrazzo tile with a cold chisel and sledge hammer. Make this entry groove as long as the diameter of your blade.

Step 5: Cutting with the Masonry Wet Saw

Masonry wet saws come with 8 feet of water hose, so place your saw, water and power supply close to your cutting job. While wearing your safety glasses and hearing protection, start the water feed for the saw. Turn on the saw and insert the blade carefully into the entry groove.

Step 6: Guiding the Wet Saw

Follow a tile line closest to the part needing repair or replacement. The tile line is a dense grout, easier to cut through than concrete and aggregate. Make a new entry slice with the chisel and sledge hammer when you need to cut at a right angle. Place the wet, turning blade into the new entry slice and continue cutting. Watch continuously for large aggregate lumps. Move the saw through these lumps very slowly to prevent blade recoil.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Wood Floor Finishing

Finishing a wood floor is the most rewarding step. Finishes are applied to wood for two principal reasons. First, a finish should protect the wood from damage such as stains, moisture and mechanical wear. Second, a properly applied clear finish will accentuate woods' natural beauty and color. Penetrating seals (sealers) and surface finishes are the two principal types of protective coatings used on wood floors. Either will give satisfactory performance if applied correctly.

Penetrating Sealers are probably the most common finish on residential floors. Sealers are usually thinned varnishes which, when applied to wood, penetrate into the wood pores on the surface. The result is usually a low gloss or satin finish that wears only as the wood wears. The eventual effects of traffic are far less apparent than with other finishes that only coat the surface. Scratching and chipping of this finish is not a serious problem. One coat of a penetrating sealer can give satisfactory performance, but two coats are generally better.

There are two basic types of sealers. Normal (slow drying) sealers can be used successfully by most anyone. Fast drying sealers are more difficult to use since it is easy to form lap marks or a splotchy appearance. Therefore, they are usually applied only by experienced professionals.

Surface Finishes which are relatively easy to apply will give satisfactory service and include polyurethane, varnish, shellac, lacquer and some others. The polyurethane is the most popular surface finish today because of their high resistance to moisture, mechanical wear, stains and spills. They are available with a high gloss or matte finish. Polyurethanes are either oil modified or moisture-cured. The oil modified types are the easiest to apply.

Varnishes can also give satisfactory performance. However, varnishes do have a greater tendency to scratch, and worn spots are difficult to patch without showing lines between the old and new finish. Varnishes specifically designated for floors tend to be more durable. A glossy or matte finish is available. Varnishes may be based on phenolic, alkyd, epoxy or polyurethane resins.

Shellac and lacquer are sometimes used as floor finishes. These finishes will dry rapidly, and more than one coat can often be applied in the same day. However, shellac and lacquer are not as resistant to moisture, spills and mechanical wear as are the penetrating sealers, polyurethane and varnish. Surface finishes will usually give a longer life than penetrating sealers without any attention other than regular sweeping or dry mopping. However, when surface finishes must be renewed, it is usually necessary to refinish the entire room.

Staining

In most cases, it is preferable to maintain the natural color of hardwood floors by using a clear finish. However, if a color different than the natural wood color is desired or if the natural wood color is too variable, a stain may be used. Stains do not penetrate wood deeply, and they may fade with continued exposure to bright light. Open grained woods such as oak, ash, pecan and walnut will take stain easily while the close grained woods such as maple, and to a lesser extent, birch and beech, will take stain much more slowly. Soft-woods do not stain well since the less dense spring wood easily stains dark whereas the dense late wood will hardly stain at all. Be certain to use "non-grain-raising'" stains. Take the same care in cleaning and preparing a surface to be stained as would be done in finishing it.

Oil-based pigmented wiping stains are probably the most common. The pigments are in suspension so the material must be stirred regularly during use to maintain a uniform color. The pigment collects in the open pores of the wood and thus accentuates the grain pattern and alters the wood color. Pigmented stains are usually applied by brushing. After the stain has penetrated the surface and the desired effect is achieved, all excess is wiped off with clean rags. Colored or pigmented penetrating sealers are also available. In this case, the pigment is mixed with the sealer, and both are applied at the same time. Pigmented penetrating sealers will not obscure the natural wood grain or shorten the life of the floor. Varnish stains are similar to penetrating sealers since the coloring pigment is formulated with the varnish. Therefore, the wood is colored at the same time it is finished. Since the coloring pigment remains in the varnish as it cures on the surface, much of the natural wood grain and color is obscured.

Certain application precautions are necessary to appropriately finish wood floors.

Dust and dirt are an important factor in causing a rough surface. When applying the first coat of finish, be certain that the wood is perfectly clean and free of dust, dirt and other foreign materials. Dust and dirt must also be removed from cracks or other floor irregularities. The walls, windows and doors should also be cleaned to keep dust motes from dropping into wet finishing materials to mar their appearance. A painter's tack rag or turpentine-dampened rag will help pick up much of this dirt. A careful cleaning is also necessary before a second or third coat of finish is applied.

Most finishes will not stick to wax, oil and other materials which may contaminate the surface. Be certain that the finish is applied only to bare, clean wood.

The temperature of the floor, room and finishing solution should be about 70 degrees F or somewhat warmer to assure that the finish flows on evenly and cures properly.

Most finishes cure faster in dry weather. Therefore low humidity conditions are also ideal.

A rough finish can also result if dust or small piece of dried finish are transferred from an old applicator or from a partially used can of finish. For each job, it is probably best to start with a new applicator and supply of finish.

Provide adequate ventilation to carry off any fumes. 7. Application of finishing materials should begin promptly after sanding so that there will be no time for changing moisture conditions to raise the wood grain.

Penetrating Sealers

Penetrating sealers are best mopped on using a clean string mop or long-handled applicator with a lamb's wool pad. Apply generous amounts of the sealer, making sure that final stroking is in the direction of the wood grain if possible. Any excess sealer which remains on the wood surface should be wiped up with a clean cloth or squeegee. A wide brush can also be used for application. After the first coat has dried it should be buffed with No. 2 steel wool. Buffing can be done by hand or with an electric polisher equipped with a steel wool pad. A second coat of penetrating seal will result in longer service life, but is not always necessary, particularly on close grained woods. Penetrating sealers can usually be refinished in heavy traffic areas without showing patch marks.

Polyurethane may be applied using a brush or lamb's wool applicator. Because polyurethane are a surface finish, care should be taken to work along the grain. Polyurethane should be flowed on in a continuous manner so that the leading edge does not have time to dry out. After the first coat is thoroughly dry, buff it with steel wool, dust well and then apply the final coat.

Varnishes are usually applied with a brush and flowed on evenly and smoothly. The first coat can be thinned lightly so that it will penetrate into the wood like a sealer. After the first coat has dried, smooth it with fine sandpaper, dust well and then apply the top coat full strength.

For the final touch of beauty and to protect the finish, apply one or more coats of good wax recommended for use on floors. Use either a liquid buffing wax/cleaner or paste wax. Use only brands that are designated for hardwood floors and if a liquid, be sure it has a solvent base, not a water base.

Apply the wax after the finish coat is thoroughly dry and polish it with a machine buffer. The wax will give a lustrous sheen to the floor and form a protective film that prevents dirt from penetrating the finish. Some manufacturers of urethane finishes do not recommend waxing, especially for commercial jobs, because wax may make the floor slippery.

Wood floors finished with penetrating seals are not too difficult to repair should they show early signs of wear in the traffic channels or become stained or water damaged in localized areas. Floors finished with polyurethane or varnish can also be repaired, but lap marks or a splotchy appearance is more difficult to avoid. Floors finished with lacquer or shellac are nearly impossible to repair successfully.

Finishes are best renewed when they begin to show signs of wear in traffic channels but before the bare wood is exposed. In this case, the floor must be cleaned of all dirt and debris, and all floor wax must be removed as it may interfere with the drying and adhesion of any new finish. Most of the wax can be stripped with rags kept moistened with mineral spirits or other paint thinners. The rest of the wax should be washed off with soap and warm water, doing the work as rapidly as possible so that the water will have little time to contact the wood. After the surface has thoroughly dried, a new finish may be applied.

If a penetrating seal is being restored, apply it to the worn areas as already described. Be careful to wipe up any excess, particularly in those areas where the old finish is still in good repair. If a surface finish such as polyurethane or varnish is being used, it may be a good idea to apply one coat of finish to the worn areas first. End all brush strokes at joints between boards. After the first coat is thoroughly dry, apply a second coat over the entire floor.

If only a small stained or water damaged area is being repaired, try to remove the discoloration first. Use steel wool or a fine grade of sandpaper to smooth out the affected area and an inch or two of the surrounding floor. Remove all dust. Then brush on one or more thin coats of finish, feathering it in to the old finish to prevent lap marks. All plenty of time for drying between coats. Wax the repaired area if appropriate.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Victorian Tile Cleaning

This hallway floor was at a property in the London borough of Richmond which had just been sold and the new owner wanted the Victorian tiled floor cleaning before she moved in.

Cleaning a Victorian Floor

To clean the floor I applied a 50/50 mix of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean and NanoTech Ultra Clean diluted with water. Pro-Clean is a strong alkaline cleaner so it won’t damage the tile like some acidic cleaners and NanoTech Ultra Clean adds tiny abrasive particles to the solution that can help penetrate into the tile to lift out the dirt. This was left to dwell and soak into the floor for a while before being agitated using a rotary machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad. This worked to clean the floor and strip any remaining sealer from the tile; the soiled solution was removed from the floor using a wet vacuum and then thoroughly rinsed to remove any cleaning products before sealing and neutralise the floor.

Sealing a Victorian Floor Sealing

The floor was dried using an floor blower, which is a like an industrial hair dryer, before being sealed with five coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which is an ideal sealer for Victorian tiled floors as it leaves a low sheen finish whilst providing excellent stain protection. You have to wait for each coat to dry before moving on to the next so it was a long day, fortunately the house was empty which made the job easier.


Source: Cleaning and Sealing Victorian Tiles in Richmond, London

Creating Correct Thickness in a Concrete Driveway

Laying a solid base for your concrete driveway and pouring it to the correct thickness will give you a driveway that can stand up to heavy trucks and cars and resist cracking and hollowing under vehicle tires. Learn more below about how to create the correct thickness for your stamped concrete driveway.

Assess Your Climate

Winters in northeastern and central North America experience deep frosts, heavy snow and ice. To prevent driveway heaving, you will need a compacted 4-inch base of crushed stone and sand, topped by 4 inches of 4000 psi concrete.

Assess Your Driveway Use

If you own a medium or large pickup truck and two cars, your driveway will be under plenty of pressure when the vehicles are all parked. Dig your driveway 10 inches deep, put in 4 inches of crushed stone, add reinforcing bars across it, and add 2 inches of sand. Use concrete rated at 4500 psi for the driveway surface.

For a Sloped Driveway

On a sloped driveway increase the thickness of the driveway base to 8 inches and the top layer of concrete to 5 inches for stability. Add control joints every 8 feet. Note that 7 percent is considered the maximum safe slope for a stamped concrete driveway.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How Often Should You Seal a Stamped Concrete Driveway?

A stamped concrete driveway should be sealed on a periodic basis in order to help it maintain its seal. The period in which the stamped concrete driveway should be sealed should be no less than once every 2 or 3 years, depending on the type of climate that the stamped concrete driveway is exposed to as well as the wear and tear that the concrete experiences.

What is a Stamped Concrete Driveway?

A stamped concrete driveway is one that has a design or pattern stamped within it. This design is made into the concrete during the time the concrete is first poured. Once the concrete hardens the design or pattern that was stamped into the driveway becomes permanent. The reason that a homeowner may decide to stamp their concrete driveway is to add additional style or curb appeal to the home as well as adding a distinctive feature that makes it different from a neighbor’s driveway.

Conditions that Warrant Sealing Your Stamped Concrete Driveway

Over time foot traffic, driving over the stamped pattern with your car and the weather can cause the stamped concrete driveway to deteriorate. Following a planned schedule of applying a sealer and color agents in the case of a colored stamp will help you maintain the desired look for your stamped concrete driveway.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Slate Tile Restoration

This Slate tiled kitchen floor at a house in Royal Leamington Spa needed a full clean and seal plus some of the tiles were reclaimed having been used originally outside and as well as loosing colour were suffering from salt damage.

Cleaning Slate Tiled Flooring

To remove the sealer, clean the floor and tackle the salt damage the floor we used a 50/50 mix of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean and Nanotech Ultra-Clean worked into the floor with a buffing machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad. This product combination creates a powerful cleaning solution with Nano sized abrasive cleaning particles that’s ideal for cleaning difficult floors. It’s also very good for cleaning up grout however I find that’s best tackled manually using a stiff brush. The next step was to remove the salts from the floor, this problem is more commonly known as efflorescence and results in white salt deposits being left on the surface of the tile, the only way to remove it is with an strong acidic cleaner such as Tile Doctor Grout Clean-Up, you do need to be careful not to allow it to dwell too long as it can damage the tile surface. Last step in the process was to remove the soiled cleaning solution with wet vacuum and then wash down the whole floor with clean water in order to neutralise it before sealing. We have invested in a powerful indoor spinner tool for this purpose which is a fantastic product that applies and removes water under high pressure. We then left the floor so it could dry overnight.

Sealing and Colouring Slate Tiles

The reclaimed slate tiles were a different colour to the rest and the owner was keen to have them dyed to make the floor uniform, fortunately we access to an industrial stone colouring product and were able to apply this to darken the stone.

The next step was to seal the slate floor and for this we applied a coat of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which seals and deepens the black colour of the Slate, the floor was left to dry fully and then we applied a further three coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go to bring out more colour and add a low sheen.



Source: Slate Tile Colouring in Warwickshire

What to Avoid When Installing a Marble Floor

Installing a marble floor will add a touch of elegance to the room. Working with marble can be a costly experience if you are not careful. When installing a marble tile floor in any home, follow some simple suggestions on what to avoid producing a productive project.


Suggestions

• Marble tile can be fragile. Use only approved floor tiling when installing your new floor. Stay away from bargain types that ultimately will cost you more.
• Professional installation will ensure a great looking floor, but if you are keen toward doing it yourself, make sure you have the proper skills and tools to complete the job. Avoid using inferior tools and materials so you won’t have to do the job twice.
• Many marble tile floors wind up having to be redone because the installer failed to examine the subflooring. Don’t make this mistake. Avoid any extra added cost by examining the subfloor making sure it can accept the new marble tile flooring.
• One critical area to avoid is the lack of tamping down tiles to ensure full bonding. If air exists between tiles and the subfloor instead of a proper cement bond, tiles will crack when eventually walked upon. Another mistake to avoid is not allowing at least 24 hours drying time.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com