Deep Cleaning a Terracotta Tiled Kitchen in Somerset

Anyone with familiar with tile cleaning and maintenance will know that Terracotta is one of the most difficult of tiles to seal. This is due to the clay being particularly porous thus requiring several coatings of sealer to ensure complete saturation and protection against ingrained dirt and stains. The next problem is that a sealer will wear down in high traffic areas first and without regular maintenance will wear off allowing dirt to penetrate resulting in areas which seem to be impossible to keep clean.


At this property in Minehead, the coastal town in Somerset known for its beaches, the sealer on the Terracotta kitchen tiles had not been maintained in over four years and during that time, the sealer had deteriorated, allowing dirt and dust to enter the pores of the stone. Trying to get the floor to look clean was now an impossible task so I was contacted by the property owner to resolve the problem first by cleaning the tiles with professional products and methods, and second by applying a fresh sealer.

Cleaning a Dirty Terracotta Tiled Floor

My focus for the cleaning process was soak the Terracotta tiles in Tile Doctor Pro-Clean for around ten minutes before scrubbing the solution into the tiles with the aid of a rotary machine fitted with a scrubbing pad. Pro-Clean is a powerful alkaline cleaner designed for use on all types of natural stone. In concentrated form, it breaks down old sealers as well as removing dirt, while the rotary machine helps the product to penetrate deep into the pores of the stone to eradicate ingrained dirt and stains. The now soiled solution was extracted from the floor using a wet vacuum and the then the floor rinsed with water. With the floor clear I was able to see stubborn areas that need more work and spot treated them using the same process. One I was happy that the floor was clean and free of old sealers it was given a final rinse and then dried as much as possible using the wet vacuum and then then left to dry off overnight.

Sealing a Terracotta Tiled Floor

The next day, I returned to the property to find the tiles fresh, dry, and ready to be sealed. My sealer of choice was Tile Doctor Seal and Go, a topical sealant which provides a robust seal and the durable low sheen finish in one product. Sealing the floor took some time as you need to let the first coat dry before applying the second and if you recall from my note at the beginning of this post it's important to use several coats of sealer on Terracotta to achieve saturation due to the naturally high porosity of the clay.


The floor is now fully sealed and looking like new, additionally It will be easy to keep clean simply by using a mop and Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner which is a pH neutral product designed for the routine cleaning of sealed tiled floors.



Source: Terracotta Tile Cleaning and Restoration Service in Somerset

How to Stain Terrazzo Floors

Terrazzo floors look impressive, but sometimes people want them to have more of an impact and change the color from the standard white. To do this it's necessary to apply a color stain to the terrazzo floors. This can be done, although it’s an involved procedure that contains several steps. However, it’s important to be aware that you can’t stain all the terrazzo floor. The porous part, known as the cementious part, will take the stain, but the particles of marble that are in it won’t. As long as you take this into account you won’t be disappointed by the result after you stain the terrazzo floors.

What You'll Need:

• Ammoniated wax stripper
• Muriatic acid
• Stain
• Water
• Buffer
• Black pad
• Wet/dry vac
• Safety glasses
• Respirator mask

Step 1 - Cleaning

The very first step is the cleaning of the terrazzo floors. To do this, begin by sweeping them and then vacuum them to remove all the dust and dirt. Use an ammoniated wax stripper. Before using it, put on a respirator mask and safety glasses to protect yourself. You can buy the stripper in 5 gallon buckets. Apply it according to the instructions. Complete the process by rinsing off the solution, and then leave the terrazzo floors to dry.

Step 2 - Acid Etch

In order for the stain to penetrate the terrazzo floors properly you need to open up the pores of the cementious area of the terrazzo floor and to do this you'll use acid etching. Put on safety goggles and a respirator mask. Start by preparing a solution of 1 part muriatic acid to 10 parts water, and then apply it to the floor with a mop. Leave it in place for a few minutes and then clean it off. Follow by rinsing with cold, clear water and leaving to dry completely.

Step 3 - Stain

No matter what color stain you choose for the terrazzo floors, it’s important that it’s only mixed with a very small amount of water. Cover the floor in the stain, preferably using a brush or a roller to reach into all the crevices.

Work one section at a time, starting at the corner toward farthest from the door and gradually working toward the exit. After completing each section the stain needs to burnished into the terrazzo floors. To do this you’ll need a buffer and a black pad, which is available at hardware stores. Keep buffing until you can see the stain penetrating into the cementious part and then rinse the section with water before moving on to the next section.

Step 4 - Finishing

To complete the staining, once you’ve finished burnishing the entire floor, plug in your wet/dry vac and vacuum the entire floor to remove all the excess specks of stain. Then, you will still need to seal the floor. Do this after the stain has had time time dry, making sure no one walks on it in the meantime. Be sure to use a good wax that is made specifically for terrazzo floors, one with a high solid content. Apply it according to the instructions and you’ll see that you have terrazzo floors that have taken on the new color of your choice.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

7 Tips for Installing Travertine Pavers on Concrete

Travertine pavers are marble pavers that can be laid on concrete. There are a lot of pavers to use, but travertine pavers are very popular and match almost every color. There are things you should know before attempting to install pavers to concrete, so here are some tips on installing travertine pavers on concrete.

Tip 1: Having the Concrete Ready

Before you even think about laying down your travertine pavers you have to have your concrete ready for them. All loose pieces of concrete have to be swept off the concrete so it's completely smooth. Once done, bleach that is used for outdoors has to be applied so that any mildew or mold on the concrete is killed.

Tip 2: Patch All Holes That Are In the Concrete

All the tiny or large holes seen in the concrete have to be patched with a concrete patching product. The kinds of products you need are available at the local hardware store. The one good thing about the patching products is they are better than normal concrete. Patching products have a much better adhesion and bonds much better.

Tip 3: Layout Dry to Make Your Design

Place your travertine pavers on the concrete and decide on a pattern by moving the pieces around. This allows you to find out if any of your travertine pavers have to be cut to fit into the concrete. Measure and mark the pavers to indicate where cuts will be needed.

Tip 4: Preparing the Mortar

As you will be working outdoors it is best that you mix your mortar in a place that will hold the entire bag. A wheelbarrow is a great item to use for mixing the mortar. Using the entire bag is good as it saves you trying to guess how much mortar you need for doing small sections.

Tip 5: Spreading the Mortar

Once the mortar is mixed, it is time to spread it on the concrete. To spread the mortar onto the concrete you will use a trowel. When you spread the mortar onto the concrete, hold the trowel on a 45-degree angle and only spread enough mortar for 2 to 4 travertine pavers.

Tip 6: Placing the Full Travertine Pavers

When you are placing the travertine pavers use a smaller trowel to spread a small layer of mortar on the back edge so that it joins to the travertine paver beside it. This will ensure that the pavers have great adhesion to the concrete and mortar. Continue until all your full-piece pavers are down.

Tip 7: Cutting the Travertine Pavers

Now that you have laid all your whole travertine pavers it is time to cut the ones needed to finish your design. You will use a tile saw to cut the pavers on the marked line you placed on the tile earlier. Once you have cut all the pavers you need then you are ready to lay them. The cut pavers are laid the same way as the whole pavers with mortar on the back edge of the paver that will connect to the travertine pavers beside it.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Rebuilding a Victorian Floor in South Wales

This Victorian tiled hallway floor at a house in Penarth needed a deep clean and seal but also there was the added complication of what to do with the under stairs area as you will see in the photographs below. There were many options to consider and after many visits to the property to discuss various options we finally decided on adding new replacement tiles that complimented the main colour in the floor.


This floor was in quite a bad state covered in paint splashes and cement after new damp proofing also under the staircase there were no tiles just cement which the customer hoped could be tiled. I assured the customer that they made the right choice by contacting Tile Doctor that they would be very happy with the outcome of their project.

Repairing a Victorian Tiled Hallway Floor

Using a Kango hammer I first removed all the cement from area under the stairs that was to be retiled to get the main mess out of way then scraped off as much cement and paint off the tiled surface as possible. Once this was done and the area clear I was able to re-cement the area to be tilled to the right level and once dry tile the area with tiles in the chosen colour from a company known as Original Style which produce good tile replicas.

Deep Cleaning Victorian Hallway Floor Tiles

The floor was checked for moisture which proved dry and then cleaned with a mixture of Tile Doctor products including NanoTech HBU Remover (HBU stands for Heavy Build-up), Remove and Go to tackle the paint splashes and to ensure any sealers were removed and Pro-Clean which is another powerful cleaning product. All these products are safe to use on tiles floors and were worked into the tile and grout using a scrubbing pad fitted to a rotary machine. Once the floor was clean the soiled cleaning solution was extracted from the floor using a wet vacuum and the floor then thoroughly rinsed down with water, again extracted using a wet vacuum. Problem areas were re-treated by hand and scraped using wire wool and Tile Doctor Grout Clean-up which is an acid product designed to remove cement stains and grout smears. The floor was then rinsed again to remove any product traces, dried as much as possible with the wet vacuum and left to dry off overnight.

Sealing a Victorian Floor Sealing

I came back the next day to seal the floor, checking the tiles for moisture first using a damp meter. To seal the tiles, I used Tile Doctor Seal and Go which adds that protective layer and a nice sheen to the floor.


The replacement tiles blended in well with the original Victorian floor tiles which now following the deep clean and re-seal looks like a new installation.




Source: Victorian Tile Cleaning and Restroation Service in SE-Walesshire

4 Natural Stone Flooring Design Tips

Natural stone flooring is one of the best choices as far as floor decoration is concerned. No matter how you want to include it, one of the main worries always remains about the durability, cost and suitability of it with the surrounding environment. Natural stone flooring is one of the more fashionable styles when it comes to home décor. Unlike most fashionable ideas, natural stone flooring also offers a big durability advantage. However, maintenance of natural stone flooring is a requirement.

Tip 1: Choose a Quality Natural Stone Flooring

There can be different varieties of stone flooring, each of them telling a different tale about color, surface, durability and polish. Natural stone flooring materials often undergo polishing and fabrication. If you are looking for an entirely natural product, the polished and fabricated items may fail to satisfy you. Repair and re-polishing is one of the most common aspects of selling slightly defective natural stone flooring. However, you can easily spot such products, as they sport distinct looks which are absent in purely natural stone flooring.

Tip 2: Check the Suitability of the Stone in Your House

Many natural stone flooring products are available to suit a wide range of interiors. Since natural stone flooring is increasing in popularity, one always gets the chance of using different color patterns. Color patterns and textures are the main factors that help one in deciding about the flooring ideas that are applicable amidst one’s personal décor. You can also choose to lay out a certain degree of variation in color and texture, but that can push your costs higher as well.

Suitability of the stone also pertains to its resistant qualities. Water resistance is important as is acid resistance when it comes to bringing home natural stone flooring.

Tip 3: Keep the Stone Design Suitable for Cleaning

While choosing a suitable stone texture, it can be useful to check for gratings. Gratings are the main cause of dirt collection, especially with heavier foot traffic in homes. Rough surfaces on natural stone flooring also help in the growth of germs. Choosing adequately smooth natural stone flooring will help in keeping the surface cleanable as well.

Tip 4: Check for Evenness and Smoothness of Natural Stone Flooring

It is important to check that the stone flooring turns out more comfortable than its counterparts in wilderness. Evenness, sustainability of furniture, slope adjustments and such factors are important for your room to remain in a stable shape. If you ignore such factors, you may face difficulties regarding the positioning of furniture in the desirable places. Leveling and installation are thus very important when it comes to actually getting one made for your home.

Always remember that natural stone flooring and its maintenance requires expert service and knowledge. Handling it yourself and using concrete for installing natural stone flooring can be done by nonprofessionals, but only after considerable thought and preparation in order to prevent wastage of a great amount of money.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Deep Cleaning Dirty Slate Flagstone Flooring in Oxfordshire

Every so often we come across exceptionally old tiles that are in desperate need of restoration. These Slate flagstones at a property in Banbury, Oxfordshire had to be a couple of hundred years old, the grout had come loose and I wagered that it’d been covered by bitumen (also known as asphalt), plaster, and concrete for a significant portion of its life. The property owner was keen to try and restore them and had tried to clean them, only to realise that it was a bigger task than initially thought. Flagstones are known to be hard wearing and durable, but no floor can be easily restored when subject to this kind of treatment. However, at Tile Doctor we are experienced with cleaning tiles in this kind of condition – and I was more t

Cleaning Old Slate Flagstones

Upon arrival at the property, the first thing I did was to cover the walls to protect them from splashes of cleaning products I would be using. I then started the process by mixing two products – Tile Doctor NanoTech HBU and Tile Doctor Remove & Go – in a bucket and spread it over the entire floor. These two products are both very powerful cleaners on their own and work even better together: NanoTech HBU utilises nano-sized particles to penetrate areas that normal cleaners simply can’t reach, while Remove & Go is specifically designed for the removal of coatings such as old sealers. For added impact and so the blend of cleaning products would not dry out, I covered the floor with a plastic sheeting, leaving the solution to dwell and work to break down the bitumen, plaster and concrete overnight. The following day, after removing the plastic sheeting I used my rotary floor machine fitted with a silicone carbon brush to slowly scrub the floor, beginning to loosen the soil. After this, I thoroughly rinsed the floor with water. I then used Tile Doctor Grout Clean Up, which is a concentrated phosphoric acid cleaner to remove the plaster and thin layers of concrete, before again rinsing the floor with water. Next, I had to remove the particularly thick chunks of concrete carefully using a chisel, before scrubbing the floor with Grout Clean Up once more. To complete the cleaning process, I then mixed a solution of our strong alkaline cleaner, Tile Doctor Pro Clean, with water and scrubbed and rinsed the flagstones with water.

Sealing Old Slate Flagstones

The next day I returned to the property to grout the floor, before leaving it again for another day to fully cure. On the final day, I sealed the floor using Tile Doctor Seal & Go, which is a topical water-based blend of acrylic polymers that provides a stain resistant surface seal combined with a long-lasting low-sheen finish. This eliminates traditional two-step sealing methods. I applied eight coats of this to give the floor the strong sheen (seen in the below photo), that the customer requested.


The floor had been in awful condition, for decades or perhaps even hundreds of years, yet using the right methods and products I successfully completed the full restoration within a single week. The customer was absolutely over the moon with the result.


Source: Slate, Stone and Grout Cleaning and Restoration Service in Oxfordshire

A List of New Slate Tile Projects to Take On

Slate tile is a perfect material to use for decorative home projects. Leftover slate tile pieces can be used in both indoor and outdoor areas as well and bathrooms, kitchens, patios, and front entry areas. Slate is a natural material and can easily coordinate with different home decor styles.

Slate is a by product of volcanic material, forming when clay from eruptions hardens. This makes it very durable for floors that can withstand dropped objects and roofs that can withstand harsh weather conditions.

Craft Slate Photo Frames

Use decoupage glue to attach one of your favorite photos to a flat piece of slate. Make sure you wash the slate tile with soap and water beforehand to remove any remaining dust or grit and allow to dry. Apply the glue carefully with a brush, press the photo in place. If you prefer, apply a thin coat of glue to the photo surface if you would like to add a glossy sheen.

Slate Wall Mosaics

If you have leftover slate tile of various sizes from a flooring or counter installation, you can create a unique wall art piece with some paint, decorative appliques, and your creative inspiration. Clean off any dust before sticking on appliques, and allow each paint color planty of time to dry.

Make Your Own House Numbers

Create customized address numbers for the front of your house by mounting metal digits (found in hardware stores) on pieces of slate tile. Be sure to use a good industrial adhesive to hold the numbers in place. Even if your tile pieces are not completely square, they can still be used for this project and give your house numbers more character.

Easy Slate Trivet

Use a larger piece of slate tile to make a trivet that will protect your kitchen counter from hot pans just taken off the stove or out of the oven. Simply take four felt tabs with peel off adhesive backing and attach them to each corner of the underside of your slate tile. The felt will prevent the bottom of the slate from scratching the surface of your counter, especially if it is made of a more delicate material.

Pressed Leaves

Dried and pressed colorful fall leaves mounted on slate tiles make a beautiful and artistic wall hanging. Begin by pressing leaves in between the pages of a large book; it helps to stack one or two other thick hard back books on top. This can take a couple of weeks, but it is worth the wait.

Use a mixture of water and craft glue to attach your leaves to the slate tile. Be sure to only use a thin coat; a little goes a long way when working with dried leaves. Allow this to completely dry, and then apply a coat over the top of each leaf as a protective coating. This can be hung on a small easel or wall area, and these pressed fall leaf pieces also make great gifts. The same project can also be done with dried and pressed flowers. Many of them are more delicate than leaves, so it is a good idea to pick those with thinner petals and small centers. 

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Refurbishing Travertine Floor Tiles

Travertine is a highly coveted and popular choice for tiled floors - and it's easy to see why. At peak condition, it's one of the most beautiful and eye-catching types of tile that is available. However, the appearance of the stone tends to suffer heavily from a natural process of corrosion know as pitting, which results in small holes developing that easily fill up with dirt and muck over time. This ingrained dirt is particularly difficult to remove with domestic, supermarket-quality cleaning products. This customer, who lives in Staverton, near Daventry in Northamptonshire, was very concerned that his Travertine tiled floor had lost its former lustre and shine due to pitting issues, continued foot traffic, and the fact that the sealant has lost its performance over the last few years and hadn't been topped up. Dirt had therefore been allowed to penetrate both the grout and stone making it look dull and uninviting.

A quote was issued and accepted to restore the floor to its former glory. It was agreed the work would best be carried out whilst the customer was away on a short break with his family.

Burnishing and Cleaning a Travertine Tiled Floor

I decided the best course of action to bring the floor back to its former glory would be to hone and polish the stone with Tile Doctor diamond encrusted burnishing pads. Our burnishing process involves removal of a very thin layer of the top surface of the stone using four pads of different grits. The first pad has a Coarse 400 grit. It is attached to a rotary machine and, with only water for lubrication, removes minor scratches, sealers, and the top surface dirt. Working in small areas of four-six square metres each, I applied the pad across the the entire floor, rinsing in between eras and picking up the soiled solution with a wet-vac machine. I then repeated this same procedure with the second pad, which is a Medium 800 grit pad used to remove dirt from minor scratches and holes in the stone. Next, I mixed up some Tile Doctor Pro Clean and sprayed it on the grout lines, which were only lightly soiled, and used hand brushes to clean them. The next burnishing pad I used had a Fine 1500 grit, which is used to start the polishing process. Following the application of the first three pads, I stopped to allow the area to dry overnight. To get the best results with burnishing, it is best that the tiles are dry as otherwise you won’t achieve the highest level of shine possible. Returning the following day, I proceeded to apply the final Very Fine 3000 grit burnishing pad to achieve a very high quality polished finish.

Sealing a Travertine Tiled Floor

Once the burnishing process was completed, I applied two coats of Tile Doctor Ultra Seal to seal the tiles. Ultra Seal is a no-sheen, natural look impregnating sealer designed to provide maximum protection against dirt and stains. The second coat was allowed to dry for an hour before I re-polished the entire floor with a very fine 3000 grit pad to refine the polish even further. The fantastic results can be seen in the photos below.


The customer was very happy with the result, leaving the following feedback:

“Just wanted to thank you for an excellent job in cleaning and returning our dining room and kitchen floor to its former glory. It looks fantastic! The floor definitely benefits from a more honed/polished finish.”

It’s always nice to get feedback like that, it really does make your efforts feel appreciated.




Source: Grout Cleaning and Colouring Service in Northamptonshire

Restoring old Red Sandstone Steps

We often get called out when other trades with less experience in stone cleaning fail to make a difference which was the case with these Red Jurassic Sandstone Stone steps at a house in Preston which had been stained with paint splashes and years of grime. The customer had tried several solutions to restore these steps including having a go themselves buy applying some Chemicals from a local Tile Shop, however again this didn't achieve the results the customer wanted so they called us after we were recommended to them.

Burnishing Red Jurassic Sandstone

I took a look at the Sandstone and tested a few methods before deciding to go with a process called Burnishing which involves the application of diamond encrusted burnishing pads. The pads come in a set of four and are applied in sequence from Coarse, through medium, fine and super fine; you need to use a little water to lubricate as you go and also rinse with water between the application of each pad. Naturally due to the tight space I couldn’t use a set of full size pads, only he smaller 6 inch pads which fit a small hand buffer.

Sealing an Indian Sandstone Tiled Floor

The floor was left to dry off overnight and then I returned the next day to seal the whole floor with two coats of our impregnating sealer Tile Doctor Colour Grow. The sealer fills the pores of the stone to prevent ingrained dirt and stains, while also emphasising the natural colours in the stone. The full process successfully restored the red colour in the Sandstone and have come up quite well considering they are over 300 years old.     Source: Sandstone Cleaning and Restoration Service in Lancashire

Safety Precautions to Take When Using a Cement Floor Sealer

When you decide to use a cement floor sealer, make sure that you pay a lot of attention and take all the necessary precautions for your health and safety. This is because cement floor sealers are very dangerous and you must protect yourself against its hazards.

1 – Wearing Protective Clothing

Remember to wear protective clothing whenever you are going to handle or apply a cement floor sealer. The fumes and vapors produced by a cement floor sealers can be very dangerous and if you inhale them, they may cause nausea, fatigue, headache and dizziness.

You also need to wear protective eyewear because cement floor sealers can cause irritation to your eyes. You should never use cement floor sealers with bare hands because it tends to cause cracks, rashes or dryness to your skin.

2 – Ventilating the Environment

Due to the high toxicity of the fumes produced when utilizing a cement floor sealer, it is highly important that the place where the sealer is being applied should be ventilated properly to reduce the danger caused by the poisonous fumes. If a worker inhales or swallows cement floor sealer, it may cause great pulmonary damage, vomiting or severe pneumonia.

3 – Keeping Cement Floor Sealer Away from Open Flames

Cement floor sealers are highly flammable and can cause explosions or fires very easily. For this reason, you are advised to keep cement floor sealer at a distance from fire and heat. You are also advised to store cement floor sealer in its own container and its storage place should be specific for flammable liquid substances.

4 – Preventing Water Pollution

Apart from causing damage to human health, cement floor sealers can also pollute lakes, rivers, seas and oceans in a terribly disastrous way. It can poison the water and consequently kill fish and other living organisms that live there. Cement floor sealers should be kept away from any bodies of water in order to prevent water pollution.

5 – Smoking Strictly Forbidden

Workers should not smoke when they are using cement floor sealer. When their work is over, they should wash thoroughly before going to smoke, drink, eat or use the toilet. If your clothing has been contaminated by the cement floor sealer, take it off immediately.

6 – First Aid Procedures

If your hands come in contact with cement floor sealer, apply a suitable hand cream or lotion to protect the skin of your hands against cracking and dryness. From a general perspective, a person needs to breathe fresh air and take some rest in case of exposure. If the person falls unconscious, you must never give him or her a drink.

In case a person inhales the toxic fumes of a cement floor sealer, make sure that he or she is breathing well and if the person still has difficulty to breathe, provide him or her with oxygen or artificial respiration. On the other hand, if the person is poisoned by cement floor sealer through swallowing, tell him or her to wash the mouth thoroughly and drink lots of milk or water. Do not induce the person to vomit. If he or she vomits, keep the head at a low position and take the person to hospital for medical attention as soon as possible.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Tiling a damaged Victorian hallway in North London

A customer in Islington had part of their Victorian tiled floor damaged due to building work and contacted us to ask if it was possible to restore it back to life as they didn’t want to lose such an original feature from their house. Victorian tiled floors are quite popular in the UK and we regularly complete restoration projects of this type so we were confident it could be restored.

Laying Victorian Floor Tiles

Finding replacement tiles was the key to restoring this floor however over the years we have built-up a list of UK suppliers who specialise in Victorian tiles so fortunately we were able to source a matching set and completely rebuild the area at the bottom of the stairs with replacement tiles.

Cleaning Victorian Tiles

The next task was to set about cleaning the tiles using Tile Doctor Pro-Clean worked in with black scrubbing pads fitted to a rotary buffer machine. The soiled solution was then extracted using a wet vacuum and the floor rinsed with water. Final step of the cleaning process was to give the tiles an acid wash using Tile Doctor Acid Gel which removed old traces of grout and other mineral deposits such as efflorescence from the floor. Once happy that is had done its job is was extracted from the floor and then the tiles were given a thorough rinse and left to dry off overnight.

Sealing Victorian Tiles

Next day we sealed the floor using Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is a breathable solvent based sealer, and is also very good at lifting the colours out of the clay tiles as providing a seal that will help protect the tiles from stains going forward.


Another fantastic restoration completed and well worth the time that went into it, it’s great to see such a lovely feature in a house of this age which I’m sure adds value to the property.


Source: Victorian Tile Cleaning and Restoration Service in North London

How to Prevent Heat Loss Through Your Basement Cement Floor

Insulating a basement cement floor is the simple way to prevent heat leaking through the cement.

What You'll Need

• 1 inch XPS rigid foam insulation
• Plywood
• Screws
• Mastic
• Mesh tape

Step 1 - Foam

Begin by cleaning the basement cement floor thoroughly to remove all dirt and possible mold. Once you’ve done this, cover the floor with 1 inch XPS rigid foam insulation, packing the sheets together as tightly as possible. To prevent heat loss, secure in place with mastic and use mesh tape over all the joins.

Step 2 - Plywood

Lay 1/2 inch plywood over the top on the insulation and screw in place, with screw going down into the basement cement floor. This will keep the floor steady, and the insulation will also provide some cushioning for the feet. Top this with another layer of ½ inch plywood. Screw this into the layer of plywood beneath it.

Step 3 - Flooring

At this stage you have the choice of either leaving the plywood as it is or putting down flooring. The latter is the better option. Without it, the plywood will soon turn dirty as people walk across it. If putting down carpet or a floating wood floor, be certain to add an extra underlay, which will give more insulation.



Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Renovating a Victorian Tiled Hallway

These photographs are from a dirty Victorian tiled hallway floor at a house on Mersea Island which is south of Colchester in the Colne Estuary. The tiles were in good physical condition but the sealer had worn down and dirt had become lodged in the pores of the tile causing them to look dull and faded.

Deep Cleaning Victorian Floor Tiles

To strip off any remaining old sealer and to give the tiles a good deep clean I applied a strong 1:3 dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean with water and worked it into the floor using a rotary buffing machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad. The now soiled cleaning solution was rinsed off and extracted using a wet vacuum and I could see there were some stubborn stains that would need extra work. To tackle these I used a solution of Nanotech HBU cleaner which was applied and left to dwell for fifteen minutes before being scrubbed in using the black scrubbing pad as before. The dirty solution was then removed using a wet vacuum and the floor was rinsed thoroughly with water to ensure all trace of cleaning products was removed.

Sealing Victorian Floor Tiles

The Victorian tiles were left to dry out for a few days before we returned to seal the floor using numerous coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which is our recommended sealer for Victorian tiles as it gives a nice low sheen effect that enhances their appearance as well as protecting them from future staining.




Source: Victorian Cleaning and Renovation Service in Essex

How to Fill Holes in Concrete Basement Floors

The holes in concrete basement floors can be filled, but you have to repair the concrete first. This step will make the patched hole a more permanent solution.

What You'll Need

• A hammer
• A chisel
• A vacuum
• A bucket
• Water
• A sponge
• Concrete adhesive
• Concrete patch material
• A 2x4 post
• A trowel

Step 1 – Removing the Broken Concrete Pieces

Use a hammer and chisel to break all of the loose concrete pieces free from the flooring.

Step 2 – Removing Small Loose Particles

Use the vacuum to remove all of the loose concrete particles. Fill a bucket with warm water. Immerse the sponge in the bucket. Squeeze out any excess water. Use the sponge to clean the hole in the concrete floor. Allow the area time to dry.

Step 3 – Applying the Concrete Adhesive

Read the instructions provided with the concrete adhesive. Apply the concrete adhesive to the inside of the hole.

Step 4 – Mixing the Concrete Patch Solution

Read the instructions to the concrete patch material. Mix the material according to the directions.

Step 5 – Applying the Concrete Patch Mixture

Fill the hole in the concrete with the patch mixture. Be sure the mixture fills all of the crevices. Drag the 2x4 post across the patch mixture to level it. Use the trowel to smooth the surface of the mixture.

Step 6 – Curing the New Concrete

Allow the concrete patch mixture at least twenty-four hours to cure.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Renovating a Dirty Quarry Tiled Hallway

What causes a tiled floor to become dull and discoloured? Typically, it's a combination of heavy soil build-up and an ineffective approach to cleaning and maintenance. Such was the case with this heavily soiled Quarry tiled hallway floor in Bedford. A further problem was that the tiles were very pitted and at some point, in the past they had been filled with grout, additionally, when I took a closer inspection of tiles, I established that there was a wax sealer present on the floor that has bend topped up from time to time - without the tiles being deep cleaned. This has caused an accumulation of soil trapped between multiple layers of wax. The result? Extremely dull and unattractive Quarry tiles that the customer was desperate to get back to looking their best.

Cleaning a Very Dull and Dirty Quarry Tiled Hallway

My first course of action was to vacuum the floor thoroughly to remove any small quantities of grit or loose debris. I then masked up the carpet and radiator to protect them before mixing up a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro Clean mixed with hot water. This was then applied to the surface of the floor in small areas of three square metres each. The high alkaline cleaning product was left to dwell for a short period before I agitated the tiles with a black stripping pad to remove the heavy soil. The resulting cleaning slurry was extracted with a wet vax machine. This cleaning process was repeated throughout the entire area. Inaccessible places, such as under the radiator and stairs, were manually cleaned using hand brushes. I then dried the floor with a fan for 30 minutes, before mopping on a solution of the acid-based Tile Doctor Grout Clean Up to neutralise the Pro Clean and removing the dirt on the grout lines with the hand brushes.

Sealing a Quarry Tiled Hallway

The area was allowed to dry completely overnight. I returned the following day and applied two different types of sealer in two separate test areas so the customer could get a better idea of the final effect that would be achieved. The customer could've opted for Tile Doctor Seal and Go, which is a topical sealer that provides a high quality, durable low-sheen finish. However, after further discussion, it was decided that the best product would be Tile Doctor Colour Grow, which is an impregnating sealer that penetrates the tiles and provides a more natural finish, emphasising the colours in the stone.


As you can see from the photos above, a deep clean and fresh seal truly worked wonders for these Quarry tiles. Both myself and the customer were very happy with the outcome of the work.


Source: Quarry Tile Cleaning and Renovation Service in Bedfordshire

Renovating Dull and Tired Slate Floor Tiles

This Slate tiled floor at this house in the Pontypool was laid over ten years ago in the kitchen/dining room. The floor had ground in dirt into the tiles and grout which the client wanted brought back to life.

Repairing and Cleaning Dirty Slate Tiles

I could see the tiles would need to be deep cleaned so I started the cleaning process with a strong combination of Tile Doctor Remove and Go to strip away the old sealer and Tile Doctor Pro-Clean to get the tiles as clean as possible. The solution was scrubbed into the tile and grout using a rotary machine fitted with a black 17” scrubbing pad. The floor was then rinsed with water and the soiled residue was extracted with a wet vacuum. This process was repeated until I was satisfied all the sealer and dirt had been removed from the tile and then I concentrated my attention on the grout lines using more Pro-Clean and a stiff wire brush to get them as clean as possible. With the tile and grout as clean as it was possible to get it, I gave the whole floor a final rinse to neutralise the cleaning products and then extracted as much moisture as possible from the floor with a wet vacuum and left the floor to dry overnight.

Sealing Slate Tiles

When I returned to the property I made sure the floor had dried by checking for any dampness with a damp meter. If you neglect to remove all excess moisture from the surface of the tiles before sealing it will impact the effectiveness of the sealer. Once satisfied that the floor was completely dry, I proceeded to seal the tiles using Tile Doctor Seal and Go which will protect the floor from staining in the future and adds a nice sheen to the surface. The Slate was quite porous so I found eight coats of sealer were needed to fully seal the floor.


I think you will agree the floor now looks amazing!


Source: Slate Tile Cleaning and Renovation Service in Monmouthshire

Renovating Damaged Stone Shower Tiles

One problem we encounter a lot at Tile Doctor is damaged caused to natural stone tiles by unsuitable household cleaning products. This customer, who lives in the small West Surrey village of Churt, had done this by attempting to use Cilit Bang, which is an acidic product, to remove limescale from his fantastic Slate tiled shower cubicle. While the product may indeed remove Limescale, it does say on the label that it should not be used on natural stone.


Putting these types of products in contact with acid-sensitive stone typically results in some sort of etching, however, I had never before seen the type of damage that had occurred on these Slate tiles. At first, I thought the damage - which appeared as a sort of white staining - might simply be damage to the sealer. But when I did a test clean to remove the sealer, it became clear that the stone had suffered from very deep staining and the only way to remove it would be to use a process we call burnishing.

Burnishing an Acid-Damaged Slate Tiled Shower Cubicle

The burnishing process is a type of polishing which involves the application of diamond burnishing pads in sequence. Each pad has a different level of grit, allowing for dirt and stains to be broken down before the stone is gradually polished. We typically use burnishing on Limestone, Marble, and Travertine, but it can be used on all manner of stone in the right circumstances. This being a vertical surface, I had to complete the process using smaller six-inch pads fitted to a handheld buffer. I started by applying the 400 grit (Coarse) pad, and followed on through to the 800 grit (Medium) and 1500 grit (Fine) pads, using a small amount of water as lubrication. I then left the tiles to dry until the next day. When I arrived back at the property, the customer remarked that the tiles looked massively improved. Nonetheless, I found I hadn't removed all the staining possible, so decided to repeat the burnishing process once - but this time used the pads without any lubrication. Once I was satisfied with the results, it was time to seal the tiles.

Sealing a Slate Tiled Shower Cubicle

My choice of sealer was Tile Doctor Colour Grow, which impregnates the stone to block ingrained dirt and staining. As the name of the product suggests, it also enhances the dark natural shades in the Slate, giving the shower cubicle a bold, healthy and rich appearance.


The customer was really pleased with the end result, which can be seen in the photographs above and below. So pleased was the customer, in fact, that he asked me to quote for the restoration of his Limestone tiled patio.




Source: Slate Tile Cleaning and Renovation Service in Surrey

Concrete Floor Restoration Options in Older Houses

Sometimes older houses need concrete floor restoration in order to make the floor look like new again. Restoring concrete floors require repairing damaged concrete and hiding the repairs using various strategies, such as stenciling, staining, or painting.

Concrete Patching

Small cracks on the floors of old houses can be fixed by patching it with a special mortar mix designed for concrete repairs. Before applying the patch, remove any loose debris on the damages and clean them thoroughly with a wire brush. Use a vacuum to remove any remaining dust or residue. Purchase a concrete patch mix. Pour the powder in a container and add water until a good consistency is achieved. Make sure that the patch is level with the concrete floor surface. Allow it to dry completely.

Concrete Injections

Cracks and joints may also be repaired using an injectable concrete repair product, such as hydraulic mortar or epoxy. Once the product is injected into the cracks, it fills in the gaps and creates a strong bond that will protect the concrete from further damage. If the holes on the cracks are too small, new holes can be drilled into them to allow the injecting device to access the inner gaps in the crack. Before applying the product, make sure to clean and remove any loose debris inside the cracks first.

Concrete Recasting

If the floor has a large extent of damage, the entire damaged area has to be demolished first. When the damaged area is removed from the floor, the damaged steel bar supports have to be replaced as well. Afterwards, the damaged area has to be cemented again with a better grade of concrete.

Staining

Staining is a great way to cover up the repaired concrete. Concrete patches and re-casted areas may be very noticeable after repair and need to be hidden. Staining is one of the best ways to restore the concrete floor and hide the repairs from public view. This method requires the use of an acid solution that will easily get absorbed in the concrete floor. When using this method, make sure to cover all surfaces connected to the floor with painter’s tape, especially the walls and the door. 

Painting and Stenciling

Painting the floor with epoxy-based paints is a good way to hide repaired areas on the floor. Use paints specifically designed for concrete floors. Stencils are ready-made patterns that can be placed on top of the floor to create elaborate designs when painting the floor. Use stencils only after staining or painting the concrete.

Sealing

After repairing, staining or painting the floor, it also needs to be sealed to ensure that it stays protected. A concrete sealer can be applied using a paint roller or a specialized sealer spray. Make sure that the floor is completely dry when doing this. Any trapped moisture can lead to further concrete damage. The sealer should also be reapplied after two years.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

The Pros and Cons of Terrazzo Floors

Terrazzo floors date back to the Renaissance.  Invented by the Venetians, they used terrazzo floors in cathedrals and other places of meaning. Even Michelangelo had terrazzo floors installed when he was working on St Peter’s Basilica. They have been installed in high rise office buildings, upscale doctor's offices and million dollar homes. Terrazzo floors are often known as Venetian mosaic, due to their appearance. They are made from chips of granite and marble that is placed in resin or concrete. Once the concrete or resin sets, you are left with a durable floor that resembles a mosaic. The following article goes over both the pros and the cons of having terrazzo floors installed in your home, office or place of business.

Cost

Terrazzo floors are probably the most expensive flooring you can ever have installed. They are more expensive than marble and granite. You are not only using a combination of two of the most expensive materials, but also using concrete or resin to set it. The process of installing terrazzo floors adds to the expense because it needs to be professionally installed, unlike marble, granite or concrete.

Beauty and Style

If what you want is a way to convey style, beauty and opulence, then nothing compares to terrazzo floors. You will wind up with a floor that is not only beautiful but unique. Terrazzo floors give you a look that no other floor can give you. Since manufacturers use small pieces of marble, granite and glass when making terrazzo floors, you can get a floor that is customized to your tastes and space.

Durability

Terrazzo floors, like other floors made from stone, can chip, but you really need to work at damaging terrazzo floors. They are one of the most durable floors you can have installed. The pieces of granite and marble are set in strong concrete or resin and when set, terrazzo floors will last for a long time while still looking as if it was installed the day before. You cannot compare terrazzo floors in durability to carpet, wood or even marble.

Cleaning Terrazzo Floors

Many feel that cleaning these floors is a difficult job because cleaning marble can be a chore. This is not the case with terrazzo floors. They are very difficult to stain, due to their texture. If you spill something on the floor, you can clean it up by using a mop dipped in plain water. There is no need to use cleaners that contain astringents or chemicals. There is also no need to scrub the floor.

Installation

You can install terrazzo floors yourself if you are installing tiles, but true terrazzo floors have to be installed by a professional. This makes terrazzo floors a specialized installation. Concrete or resin is first poured on the floor. On top of this sandy concrete is poured. On top of this layer the chips are placed by hand in intricate patterns. Once this is complete they are sanded down, cleaned and a sealer is applied to finish the floor. The terrazzo floor is then polished.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Repair a Hole in a Natural Stone Floor

A natural stone floor provides a very pleasant look, but it does require some special care and attention which might, at times, be quite costly when compared with other flooring. This is especially the case if you opt to hire a professional repairer or restorer rather than attempting to do the work yourself. Here, we shall be discussing the basic steps you should follow in order to try to repair any holes that might develop in the natural stone floor.

What You'll Need

• Sandpaper
• Broom
• Scraper
• Water
• Bucket
• Rags
• Paintbrush
• Grout
• Sealer
• Soft cloth

Step 1: Examine The Floor

First of all, examine the floor well to check for any holes and other defects. If you notice any, try to ascertain the reason behind their development in order to be able to treat them accordingly, while making sure to prevent any new holes from developing.

Step 2: Sand the Hole

It is best that you hand-sand the hole to prepare it for the subsequent processes. Use some water to wet it while sanding for better results. Holes or small scratches will, in the vast majority of cases, be rough and have some loose small stones at the edges. Hence, if not sanded well, you will find problems filling it adequately, causing small holes to remain. This will ultimately end up ruining your work because if the hole is not filled in a solid manner, it will develop again over time.

Step 4: Clean the Hole

The next step is to clean the hole of any dust or other residues that might have accumulated around the hole’s edges and nearby areas. It is also recommended that you clean the area with some suitable cleaner diluted with some water. Before proceeding to the next step, make sure that you have allowed the hole to dry completely.

Step 5: Apply the Grout

Once you are done, start to apply some grout inside the hole. Make sure you use a good quality brand and one which is suitable for your stone. Use sparingly in order to fill the hole well. Any excess will then have to be cleaned off before drying up. Make sure you do not leave any open parts, as even if they are small, they are porous and will end up ruining the work and requiring you to repeat the whole process after a short period of time. Also, make sure to follow the particular instructions for the brand of grouting you use when applying it.

Step 6: Apply Sealer

At this point, you need to apply some sealer. You can apply it either by means of a brush or by using the tip of a soft cloth or small towel. If you are aware that your natural stone floor is very porous, it is best that you apply more than one coating of sealer for better final results.

By following these steps carefully, you will manage to repair any holes in your natural stone floors yourself.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Renovating Old Quarry Floor Tiles

It's not every day that I get to work on a 350-year old property, however, not too long I was contacted by a client who was in the process of renovating one in the village of Ringstead, complete with an original Quarry tiled floor.


After removing the old flooring in the property, the client had discovered a broken-up screed of concrete covering the original tiles, the remnants of which can be seen in the photos below. He proceeded to manually scrape the screed off over the course of several days - successfully removing about 60 per cent of it - but found there to be many stubborn areas and instances where the tiles were badly cracked and would need replacing. As a passionate renovator, the client treats restoring old properties as a labour of love, and only recruits professional help when he really needs it, so it was a real compliment to be consulted to see if the floor was salvageable. I’ve worked on floors in an equally bad state before so I was confident it could be restored, I provided a quote which was accepted and a date was agreed to start the work.

Cleaning 350-Year Old Quarry Tiles

Upon arriving at the property, my first course of action was to run my rotary machine, fitted with a dry concrete cleaning brush, over the entire area to remove dust and etch the area to allow the cleaning products to permeate the surface of the screed. I then vacuumed the area thoroughly before applying Tile Doctor Acid Gel across the entire area.


Acid Gel is a blend of phosphoric and hydrochloric acids in gel form which helps to remove inherent grout haze, efflorescence and other stubborn staining. The product was left to dwell for 20 minutes, before I repeated the action with the concrete cleaning brush to work the product into the tiles. Acid Gel was left on for a further 10 minutes and agitated with handheld brushes to clean the stone. Following this, the resulting cleaning slurry was removed with a wet-vac machine. To complete the cleaning process, I used a long handled scraper to score along the top of the remaining concrete and break it down by applying Tile Doctor Grout Clean Up, which is essentially the liquid version of Acid Gel. I carried out this action twice to ensure the removal of all the concrete.

Sealing 350-Year Old Quarry Tiles

The floor was then allowed to dry for 4 days; properties of this age have no damp proof membrane to the this provided time to allow excess moisture to evaporate following the cleaning. Returning to the property, I ran some quick deal tests to check that the Quarry tiles were ready to sealed. Once I was satisfied with the condition of the floor I proceeded to apply two coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow, our impregnating, breathable sealant which offers provides robust protection and enhances the natural reddish shades in the Quarry.


The client was very pleased with the results. Our work has helped him massively along the way to the complete renovation of this great property. His long-term plan is to keep the Quarry tiled floor as it is, however when he encloses the area under the stairs he will use the tiles from that area to replace cracked and damaged tiles that are in the centre of the room. If more tiles he intends to source them from a reclamation yard.




Source: Quarry Tile Cleaning and Renovation Service in Northamptonshire

How to Seal Tumbled Marble Tiles

If you're looking for an great way to protect your tumbled marble tiles from falling victim to excess moisture, you should consider sealing them. Well-sealed tumbled marble tiles will be considerably more resistant to mold, mildew and other tile-based filth than unsealed tiles.

What You'll Need

• Marble sealer
• All-natural stone cleaner
• Small paintbrush
• Nonabrasive washcloth
• Breathing mask
• Broom and dustpan
• Vacuum cleaner

Step 1 - Clean Your Tumbled Marble Tiles

Make sure to remove any dust deposits from your tiles before proceeding to seal them. Using a broom and dustpan, thoroughly sweep the tiled area until it is completely dust-free. Alternatively, this step can be performed with a vacuum cleaner that features brush attachments. Next, remove any dirt from the tiles with the aid of an all-natural stone cleaner and a nonabrasive washcloth. It's important that your stone cleaner be all-natural, as a standard stone cleaner may have a potentially dangerous chemical reaction when combined with your sealer.

Step 2 - Apply Your Sealer

With your tiles clean, it's time to apply your sealer. If you selected a spray-on sealer, spray it across the tiled area, then smooth it out with a nonabrasive washcloth or small paintbrush. If the sealer you purchased needs to be manually applied, use a small paintbrush to spread it evenly across the tiled area. Make sure to perform this step in a well-ventilated area, and, if you feel weak from the sealer fumes, wear a breathing mask. Lastly, allow the sealer to dry for the amount of time listed on its box.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Cleaning Tumbled Marble Flooring: Mistakes to Avoid

Cleaning tumbled marble flooring yourself can be tricky. There are many common but easily avoidable mistakes that can ruin your floor.

Avoid Generic Solutions

Tumbled marble does resemble many other types of stone in a superficial way. However, you should avoid using cleaning techniques designed for most stone floors unless you have specific information saying they will work. Tumbled marble is easy to accidentally damage, particularly if you do not seal your floor, use acidic cleaners, or scrub using abrasive materials.

Use the Right Cleaners

Using a generic cleaning product, even one designed for stone, is a mistake when dealing with tumbled marble flooring. You should be able to purchase a specially designed product for your tumbled marble floor. Be sure to follow this product's instructions carefully, taking extra care to follow  the section on dilution. More concentrated cleaners will require more dilution than others. Dilution will also effect how much rinsing you need to do before you can consider yourself done.

Use the Right Tools

Use a mop and a bucket to dilute and apply the cleaner to your marble floor. You can use an old toothbrush to clean the grout, but do not scrub your floor with an abrasive tool, as that will scratch the seal.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Renovating Dirty Quarry Floor Tiles

This customer had just bought a house in the small Shropshire village of Nesscliffe. Like many new property owners, she was keen to make some changes to the interior decoration, deciding to pull up the carpet they she didn't like that covered almost the entire ground floor of the house. Upon doing so she and her partner discovered a large area of original Quarry tiles.


They decided that instead of replacing the carpet with a new one, they would keep the original floor and attempt to restore its condition. However, their efforts to restore the tiles by themselves proved ineffective - many of the cheaper, supermarket cleaning products were not suited for the job of removing years' worth of dirt and stains.


At that point they decided to call me. I visited the property and ran a test clean to see what could be achieved. The customer was more than happy with the initial results and booked me in to undertake the full restoration.

Cleaning Dirty and Stained Quarry Tiles

The most noticeable problem with the tiles was a series of paint splashes and plaster deposits covering almost the entirety of the floor, the result of previous decoration work and the installation of carpet. I removed these by applying a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro Clean and working it into the tiles using a scrubbing brush fitted to a rotary machine, with the alkaline cleaner reliably breaking down the stubborn paint splashes. I then worked the product into the grout lines too using a grout brush. To tackle the plaster and cement-based residue I used Tile Doctor Grout Clean Up, a phosphoric acid cleaner which removes heavy stains. Following the cleaning, I left the floor to dry for a week to allow for any excess moisture to evaporate.

Sealing Quarry Tiles

On my return to the property I immediately checked whether the floor was dry enough to be sealed. We always do this as excess moisture can very easily effect the performance of the sealer. Thankfully the floor was completely dry and I was able to seal the tiles using five coats of Tile Doctor Seal & Go. Seal & Go is a topical sealer, meaning it builds up a layer of protection again dirt and stains on the surface of the stone. We recommend it for tiles such as Quarry, Victorian and Slate. While offering surface protection it also provides a pleasing low-sheen finish.


The customer was really pleased with the result. Within a week the newly discovered Quarry tiled floor had been transformed from an apparent lost cause to a real asset to the home of the new property owners.



Source: Quarry Tiled Floor Cleaning and Restroation Service in Shropshire