Tile Installer Trade Secrets You Can Use

Tile installers have a number of great insider secrets. They are consummate professionals, so they’ve developed systems and even shortcuts that work well. Often, they’ll try to keep their tricks to themselves but nothing can truly stay secret for long. Knowing some of those secrets can make your tiling job a lot easier. You might imagine that most tillers will have superb secrets regarding the laying of the tile itself. In fact, their greatest secret is in the preparation they do before a single tile is laid.

Secret 1: Preparation

The biggest key to making a job go smoothly is good preparation. In the case of large jobs this can mean days of preparation. Check the rooms to see how square the walls are, how even and smooth the edges appear and how level the surface is that you’ll be covering with your tiles.

Once you’ve established this, begin work your preparation methods out. If necessary, build up floors a little, using mortar rather than self-leveling compound. Where walls are being tiled, especially if they have concave bows, use thinset to level them out. With convex bows, remove the board and use a plane on the wall studs before replacing.

This can take longer than the actual tiling but it’s definitely worthwhile. Not only will the tiling process go smoothly, but you'll have a much outcome. Starting with a level floor spares you having to deal with a problem called lippage, which effectively means the tiles aren’t quite even.

Secret 2: Layout

You’ll save a lot of time later if you establish lines parallel and square to the longest wall in the room. Next, lay out a run of tiles about 6 feet long, including spacers. This will let you know if you’ll end up with slivers around the room edges. If that’s the case, you can make adjustments so it doesn’t happen.

Lay out tiles from the center of the room, going in all directions to ensure the perimeters will all be the same. When you’ve done that, re-check everything thoroughly to avoid mistakes later.

Secret 3: Installation

To avoid boxing yourself into a corner and having to wait while the mortar dries, move from the field which is classed as the center of the room and work outwards to the perimeter of the room. Set the tile in the thinset then take the time to level it in all directions. This ensures you’ll have a perfectly level floor.

If you’re tiling more than the floor, complete the other surfaces such as countertops and walls first. This means that you’ll never be stuck for a surface to work on.

Some tiles, such as ceramic, porcelain and terra cotta, will require grout. However, you should still take the time to make sure they’re flat and even rather than relying the grout to make things look good. It’s a matter of pride and craftsmanship.

Secret 4: Grouting

When you’ve grouted the tiles, use clean water and thick sponges to clean up and do so thoroughly. When you caulk areas with splashbacks or where two different surfaces join, use latex caulk that’s matched in color to the grout. To get a good bead, work the caulk into the join carefully and firmly.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Stained Flagstone Floor Deep Cleaned in Gloucestershire

I recently helped a homeowner from my home town of Dursley who got in touch about her kitchen Flagstone floor. The problem revolved around an accident she had with raspberries which had stained the flagstones and the problem became compounded when a house hold clearing product was applied neat to clean up the mess. If you follow any of our Tile Doctor blogs, you will know that using strong household cleaning products can damage the sealer and, in this case, it had left white marks on the floor.


I called round to the property to survey the floor as was surprised to find out that the floor had been cleaned and sealed only four months prior by another company. I don’t like to comment on other people’s work, but I found the grout lines and flagstones were still badly ingrained with dirt, so it wasn’t a through job.


I completed by survey and demonstrated the process I would follow to resolve the issues on one of the flagstone tiles. She could not believe the difference I was able to make and booked me in straight away to restore the entire floor.

Cleaning a traditional Yorkshire Stone internal floor

My first task was to protect the wooden kitchen units from splashing that can happen when cleaning the floor. Once that was done, I set about stripping the sealer from the floor and deep cleaning the tile and grout with a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean. Pro-Clean is a concentrated, multi-purpose high-alkaline cleaner, stripper and degreaser which is safe to use on all types of tile, stone and grout including natural stone.

Working in sections across the Kitchen and adjacent dining room I diluted one part Pro-Clean to two parts water and mopped it onto the flagstones and grout where I left it to soak in for roughly fifteen minutes. Then using a rotary floor buffer fitted with a black scrubbing pad I scrubbed the solution into the floor into the old sealer and trapped dirt came away turning the cleaning fluid black in the process. The soil was then rinsed off with water and then extracted with a powerful 3,000 watt wet and dry vacuum. This process was repeated until I was satisfied the floor was clean and I ran a stiff grout brush along the grout lines to ensure they also received a good scrub. After I was satisfied the section was clean it was rinsed thoroughly with water to neutralise the floor and remove any trace of product and then dried with the wet and dry vacuum.

The cleaning process took up the whole day, but the flagstones would need to be dry before sealing so after giving the owner an update I left the floor for two days, so it could dry out thoroughly.

Sealing a traditional Yorkshire Stone internal floor

On my return I tested the floor was dry in multiple places with a damp meter to ensure it was ready to be sealed. The readings showed that the wet and dry vacuum had done a good job in removing the moisture, so all was well. To seal I applied several coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go allowing each coat to dry before applying the next however with such a large area to cover I was able to work in sections around the floor.

Seal and Go works really well on Flagstones and leaves a very appealing sheen finish, also being water based it doesn’t leave a smell as it dries.


The results were amazing, and the customer thanked me for making such a massive improvement on her floor. Before leaving I made sure to discuss after-care and to avoid the use of hash cleaning products.



Source: Flagstone Tile Cleaning and Sealing Service in Dursley, Gloucestershire

Floor Tiles: Pros and Cons

Floor tile is a popular material used for many different rooms in a home. A wide variety of floor tiles exist today on the market ranging in size, shape and material. Most frequently used in kitchens and bathrooms, floor tile is also commonly used in entryways, sunrooms or even as the threshold to a fireplace. Here are some pros and cons regarding the use of floor tiles

Pros of Floor Tiles

There are so many advantages to floor tiles. We have chosen our top five things we love about floor tiles.  They are as follows:

1. Tile Floors are Beautiful

Floor tiles add an element of beauty to the floor. Coming in so many unique styles, shapes, colors and designs, floor tiles accent a room’s design and ambiance. They quickly become an integral part of the room’s look and feel.

2. Tile Floors are Durable

Most floor tiles are hard to crack, break and destroy. Drop a pot, a dish or any other piece of glassware and you'll find that the tile isn't  cracked, shattered or broken. They will last for years to come.

3. Tile Floors are Easy to Clean

The easiest way to clean floor tile is with a mild vinegar and warm water solution. Mop up the tile and you'll have a shiny, clean surface.

4. Tile Doesn't Absorb Odors

If you like to cook, and if you cook food using oils or strong smells, you know how the odor can penetrate almost anything. Tile floors are generally not porous materials and they resist absorbing any of the smells or scents that are developed inside your home because of your hobbies or your cooking desires.

5. Tile Floors are Easy to Install

With a little instruction and the right materials, floor tiles are very easy for the average person to install. Installation of floor tiles becomes a great weekend do-it-yourself project.

Now to the Cons of Floor Tile

Yes, there are some negative aspects to your lovely floor tile. Here they are!

1. Cold To The Touch

If you have sensitive feet or if you get cold easily, going barefoot is not an option on tile floors, especially in the colder months. Tile flooring tends to retain cold. 

2. Slick when Wet

After a good wash and a rinse, floor tiles may have you flying across the room if you don't have a matt or rug.  Because most floor tiles do not have texture, they are slippery when squeaky clean!

3. Noisy!

If you wear click-and-clack shoes or high heels, the floor tile will do nothing to muffle the sound. Be ready to every step in your household  and a great deal of echoing as tile tends to carry sound across rooms and down hallways.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Renovating Tired Quarry Tile and Grout in East Surrey

This client who lived in a property in the Village of Outwood had a tired looking Quarry tiled floor in their lounge and asked if we could improve the look of it. I went over to take a look and can see the tiles were situated in front of a brick fireplace and added a nice rustic feel to the room that was well suited to the house.


It had clearly been some time however since the Quarry tiles had been given a good clean and seal; the tiles were looking dull and lifeless and the grout was especially bad and had darkened with the ingrained dirt. I could see a deep clean would be required to lift the dirt out so after discussing the process we agreed a date for me to come back and renovate the floor.

Deep Cleaning Quarry Tile and Grout

When I returned to clean the floor my first task was to protect any areas that may be impacted by the cleaning process which in this case related to the adjacent carpet.

To be able to reach into the pores of the tile and grout and lift out the dirt I needed to remove any remaining sealer. To do this I applied a medium dilution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go which is a strong coatings remover and cleaner that’s ideal for these situations. The product is left to dwell for ten minutes, so it can get to work breaking down the old sealer and dirt and is then scrubbed into the floor. Normally I use a black scrubbing pad fitted to a rotary machine running on slow speed to do this however given the size of the floor I decided to use a deck brush to scrub the tiles and a narrow grout brush along the grout lines.

The soiled cleaning solution was rinsed off the floor with water and extracted using a wet vacuum. I then inspected the floor and spot treated any areas that needed further attention with a repeat of the same process. Once I was satisfied the Quarry tile and grout was as clean as it could be, I left for the night so the floor cold dry off.

Sealing Quarry Tiles

Returning the next day, I sealed the Quarry tiles with several coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which adds a nice subtle sheen finish to the tiles and will provide the tiles with long lasting protection. Seal and Go is a water-based sealer so doesn’t leave a smell as it dries which is always a plus.

My client was impressed with the transformation and as I think you will agree the Quarry tiles now look much brighter and the grout has returned to a much lighter shade.




Source: Quarry Tile Cleaning and Renovation Service in East Surrey

Installing And Maintaining Peel And Stick Tile

A very affordable and easy-to-do renovation of a floor uses peel and stick tile. These tiles work exactly as their name suggests.

What You'll Need:

• Very sharp craft knife
• Metal straight edge
• Tape measure
• Waste bin

Step 1 – Clean the Floor

The success of most jobs depends on the early preparation, and this preparation is very important with peel and stick tile. The floor must be totally clean and dust-free. Fix any irregularities before you lay the first tile.

Step 2 – Find a True Corner

Find a true corner in the room or the longest straight wall for your starting point. Test the tile against the corner before you remove the backing to make sure it fits snugly on both edges.

Step 3 – Fit the First Tile

Remove the paper backing and fit the tile to the floor. Try to get the tile into the right position immediately. The adhesive is quite strong, and you will probably ruin the tile if you try to reposition it.

Some people tear the paper backing, and the parts left behind prevent the full adhesive surface from making contact with the floor. With care, you can remove all the backing sheets in one piece.

Step 4 – Fit Other Tiles

Repeat the process. Make sure each new tile sits tight against any others. The paper backing of peel and stick tile is very slippery, so you should immediately dispose of each backing sheet into the waste bin.

Step 5 – Fill Gaps

Once you fit all the tiles, measure and cut tiles to fill the remaining gaps. The tiles are difficult to cut with scissors. Use a sharp knife, drawn along a straight edge. It is safer to stand and use a table for cutting, but always make sure you have some backing material to prevent damage to the floor or the table where you cut.

Don’t dispose of all the tiles or parts of tiles you have left. You might need them for repairs later.

Step 6 – Clean and Maintain the Floor

Maintaining your peel and stick tile floor is easy. You can clean the tiles with a damp mop, but you should never wash them.

Consult the manufacturer’s recommendations before you try any exotic cleaners. Most vinyl cleaners are acceptable, and some non-wax floor polishes can help create and maintain a glossy finish. To achieve the very best results, you can hire a buffing machine every month or so to bring the shine back to the tiles and remove any stains.

Peel and stick tile is supposed to be a short-term solution, but if you install and maintain them correctly, they could serve you well for a long time.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Original 1901 Mosaic Floor Restored in Warrington, Cheshire

Around five years ago Tile Doctor was asked to quote for restoring the Mosaic tiled floors in the former Warrington Technical College which is a Grade II listed building that was built in 1901. Tile Doctor are the biggest restorative tile network in the UK and we often get asked to quote for restoring old floors like these. Although we quoted for the work, nothing happened, and it now appears the local borough council had put the work on hold until they could come up with a fully costed plan to fully restore it.

It took some time, but I’m pleased to report that a plan did evolve and a joint venture between the council and a developer has now restored the building to its former glory and is now home to several restaurants and bars spread across its three floors.


The restoration plan included preserving the main stair enclosure along with the original features which includes oak panelling and thankfully the beautiful Mosaic floor tiles. Having previously quoted for the latter and with the main building works complete we were asked to return and restore the floors ASAP at what has since been renamed as “The Treasury Building of Palymra Square”.

On the first day I was given a large vase full of mosaic tile pieces which the developers had collected during the building works and figured would come in handy later.

Day 1 – Preparing and Cleaning the Mosaic Flooring

Starting at the top of the building my first job was to remove the builders rubbish and sweep both floors. I then washed both Mosaic floors with Tile Doctor Pro-Clean using a strong 1:3 dilution with water. After leaving the cleaning solution to soak in for a few minutes it was scrubbed in using a black scrubbing pad fitted to a weighted buffing machine.


This process brought out the dirt and dust that had been ingrained in the tiles turning the cleaning solution into a grey slurry which was then removed with a wet vacuum. It was a large floor and I had to repeat the cleaning process a couple of times to remove the layers of dirt, but the result was worth it and by the end of the first day the colours and design of the floor was really standing out.

Day 2 – Replacing Missing Mosaic Tiles on the Top Floor

On day two I started work to repair the floor where the mosaic pieces were missing using the collection of mosaic tiles the builders had kindly left me at the start of the restoration. It was quite a jigsaw that involved looking through the hundreds of pieces that had been collected, finding a suitable piece and if necessary shaping it with a grinder so it could fit in the pattern. I used a flexible tile adhesive and then left them to set overnight.

Replacing the missing mosaics on the first floor was a slow process which ended up taking up much of the second day.

Day 3 – Replacing Missing Mosaic Tiles on the Top Floor

My plan on day 3 was to continue the restoration work on the top floor and ensure the repaired areas were level with the rest of the floor. I attempted to use a 50-grit milling pad fitted to weighted floor buffing machine for this but found the segments on the pad would catch the edge of the replaced pieces and knock them out of place. Clearly this was not going to work so I changed tack and smoothed them down using a set of graded hand-held Diamond burnishing blocks. Again, there was lot to do so this work took up much of the day; some might say I could have worked around this but I’m a bit of a perfectionist and I like to ensure a job is done right.

Day 4 – Burnishing Mosaic Tiles on the Top Floor

The next step was to use a set of Tile Doctor Burnishing Pads to clean and restore the finish of the mosaics. The pads which are encrusted with industrial diamonds are applied with a rotary floor buffer in sequence from coarse to extra fine. The first pad is a coarse 400-grit and is applied with only water for lubrication, it removes minor scratches, sealers, and the top surface dirt.


Working in sections, I applied the pad across the floor, rinsing with water in between and picking up the soiled solution with the wet vacuum. I then repeated this same procedure with the medium 800-grit pad which is the first stage polishing pad again rinsing with water after use. The next two pads are a fine 1500-grit and extra fine 3000-grit which really build up a high-quality polish on the stone. This last pad is applied at the very end of the process when the floor is dry and is run over the floor using a small amount of water which is sprayed onto the floor.

Day 5 – Restoring Mosaic Flooring on the Ground Floor

The next day we started on the ground floor which consisted of a large main lobby and hallway running off it. The mosaic pattern in the lobby featured an impressive oval zodiac design with two restaurants looking on to it behind wood and glass panelling. It must have taken a long time to lay back in 1901 and we were quite often stopped by people that worked there saying how nice it was seeing the wonderful floor being restored to its former glory.


The ground floor Mosaics had the same issues as the first floor however the experience gained restoring the first floor meant I was able to crack on quite quickly and completed the repairs in a single day.

Day 6 – Burnishing Mosaic Tiles on the Ground Floor

On the sixth day I proceeded to burnish the Mosaic flooring on the ground floor and hall using the same system as before


With two large areas to cover I found the burnishing of the ground floor and hall using the 400, 800 and 1500-grit pads as before took up the whole day. After finishing the floor was given a final rinse to remove the slurry and then left to dry out overnight.

Day 7 – Sealing Mosaic Flooring

I returned early the next day to complete the polishing process using the 3000-grit burnishing pad which further builds the polished appearance of the floor. Once this was done the floor was sealed using two coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is an impregnating sealer that adds stain protection to the floor and enhances colour. With two floors to do I was able to work on one floor as the sealer on the other dried.


The owners were very pleased with the work we did and have asked us if we can come back every two months to maintain the floor and keep it in tip top condition. Having a maintenance plan in place for busy tiled areas like these are a good idea if you want to keep your floor looking its best.




Source: Mosaic Tile Cleaning and Restoration Service in Cheshire

Install A Foam Floor In A Kids' Room

A kids room will greatly benefit from having a foam floor. This flooring is not only comfortable and soft, but it also adds a new dimension for you to decorate your room.

Many home owners install their foam floors in playrooms and even on basement floors where the kids can have their own play area. These foam floors are incredibly durable, easy to clean, and spill proof. There is a wide variety of different shapes, sizes, and designs for the foam floor which makes it easy to match to any decor. Depending on what your child likes, you can have letters, designs, cars, dinosaurs, colors, and even sports teams as designs on the foam floors.

What You'll Need:

• Foam flooring of your choice
• Utility Knife
• Carpet tape
• Measuring Tape
• Square

A Big Puzzle

For the most part, installing a foam floor is much like putting together a puzzle. Foam floors come with interlocking joints that make them much more stable, and less likely to come apart from use.

Step One

Clean the entire subfloor of the area you are going to be working in. You can install the foam floor on any type of hard surface, but it needs to be clean of any residue, oils, nails, or splinters.

Step Two

Take the time to lay out the foam floor tiles in the way you want them. Resist the temptation to begin laying them down permanently right at the beginning. You might see that they way you originally planned the floor does not look quite right.

Leave at least 18 inches all the way around the room for the border tiles. Position the floor in the middle so that there are equal amounts of a floor all the way around the room so the border tile installation will be much smoother.

This step is important so you will get the exact pattern that you want for the children's play area.

Step Three

Measure the remaining floor space and transfer these measurements to the border tiles. Cut them down to size using the utility knife and a straight edge. Once these are cut to size, then install them along the entire outside edge of the room, or play area.

Step Four

When you are absolutely sure you have the right configuration you want for your foam floor, then begin to adhere them to the floor for a permanent fixture.

Pull up each border tile and place double sided carpet tape onto floor. Use tape for each corner of the tile and the middle area. Press the tile back into place and apply pressure to it to create a stronger bond. Repeat this process all the way around the room.

Do not adhere the middle tiles to the floor. This way you still have the option of changing them out or rearranging them for a new look.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com