How to Clean Yellowing Terrazzo Floors

By J. Johnson, eHow Contributor

Carpet, tile, hardwood and terrazzo are common flooring materials--all require different maintenance techniques and cleaning processes. Some terrazzo floors are more than 3,000 years old. Employ proper cleaning techniques and your terrazzo floors will last a long time.

Things You'll Need

• Mop
• Mop bucket
• Water
• Floor cleaner

Instructions

1. Mop your terrazzo floors using clean water with no added cleaning products. This is a preliminary rinse. It can help fight yellowing discoloration and prevent the floor from absorbing the cleaning product.
2. Add a floor cleaning product to the water in your mop bucket. Because you used the preliminary rinse method, you won't need as much cleaner as the manufacturer recommends. To protect your terrazzo floor and prevent future yellowing, the cleaner should be non-chemical and non-abrasive.
3. Mop the floor again with the cleaning and water solution.
4. Empty and rinse your mop bucket and refill it with clean water. Mop your terrazzo floor a third time to rinse away the cleaning solution. Allow it to air dry.

Source: www.eHow.com

Restoration of Semi Riven Black Slate Floor Tiles

Dull and stained semi riven black slate floor tiles installed on a kitchen was restored to a deep shine using Tile Doctor quality cleaning and sealing products. Great tile cleaning and sealing expertise is also a must in bringing up a dull floor into a deep shine result.



Read more: Cleaning and Sealing Dull Black Slate Tiles

How to Cut Around a Toilet

By Ian Kelly, eHow Contributor

Although there are many available options for refinishing bathroom floors, the most common choices are sheet vinyl, vinyl tiles and ceramic tiles. If you are replacing your bathroom fixtures, lay the flooring before bolting the toilet down; this way, cutting a rough circular hole for the sewer outlet is fairly simple. If you plan to lay the flooring around an existing toilet, however, the trickiest part is cutting neatly around the toilet base. You can use one of three distinctive ways to achieve this, depending on your choice of flooring.

Things You'll Need

• Kraft paper
• Scissors
• Steel measuring tape
• Masking tape
• Plastic ruler
• Felt pen
• Pencil
• Duct tape
• Utility knife
• Silicone caulk
• Rag
• Vinyl tile adhesive
• Notched trowel
• Rubber roller
• Cellophane tape
• Patented tile and glass cutter
• Household machine oil
• Ceramic tile adhesive
• Rubber mallet
• Grout line spacers

Instructions

Sheet Vinyl

1. Cut halfway down the center line of a 24-inch-square sheet of kraft paper with a pair of scissors. Fold the cut line back and lay the paper on the floor with each side of the cut straddling the toilet. Push the paper toward the back wall so that the end of the cut lines up with the front of the toilet base.
2. Line the template up with a steel measuring tape, so that the front edge of the template is parallel to the back wall. Tape the front edge of the paper to the floor with masking tape.
3. Make a provisional crease in the paper around the junction between the toilet and the floor by holding the paper flat against the floor and running the ball of your thumb around the toilet base.
4. Trim off the paper protruding upward, about 3 inches from the crease. Harden the crease in small sections with the edge of a plastic ruler. Make a number of progressive cuts downward to the edge of the crease, so that the template opens up like daisy petals as you work. Firm up the crease with the corner of the ruler once you have worked all the way around the toilet base.
5. Remove the masking tape and mark the front corners of the template on the floor with a felt pen. Remove the template and carefully cut out the exact shape of the toilet base with the scissors.
6. Replace the template and line up the corners with the marks on the floor to ensure that you have a perfect fit; if not, mark any gaps or overlapping sections on the first attempt with a pencil, and prepare a second template. Tape the template to the floor with four short strips of masking tape.
7. Build up a master template to cover the entire bathroom floor by progressively taping sheets of Kraft paper to the toilet template and to each other. Cut the paper to fit around any obstructions by following the same techniques used on the toilet template. Line the edges of the additional sheets up with the peripheral walls until you have built up an exact template of the entire floor.
8. Roll out your sheet of vinyl; if you have a large bathroom, butt two cut strips of vinyl to the side edges of the center piece, and secure the joints with duct tape. Tape the master template to the vinyl sheet with masking tape.
9. Split the center of the vinyl opposite the toilet cut-out down to the front edge of the toilet with a utility knife, so that you can fold the sheet around the toilet after cutting it to size. Carefully cut out the toilet opening with a sharp break-away blade of a utility knife. Cut out the rest of the flooring about an inch out from the edges of the template to allow room for final exact trimming before gluing the vinyl down.
10. Run a bead of silicone caulk around the base of the toilet once the sheet vinyl is glued to the floor. Wet the tip of your finger and smooth the silicone down to a neat concave joint. Wipe off excess with a damp rag.

Vinyl Tile

1. Prepare a template as described in the Sheet Vinyl section.
2. Lay vinyl tiles over the entire bathroom floor as directed in the written instructions, but leave a square opening large enough to accommodate the cut tiles around the base of the toilet.
3. Measure and mark the template with a pencil and ruler, and cut it into squares the same size as the surrounding tiles. Lay the template squares into the opening to ensure that you have a perfect fit.
4. Lay each individual cut template square on a tile and line up the edges carefully. Mark the outline onto each tile with a felt pen. Carefully cut along the line with a sharp utility knife. Test fit the tiles inside the opening; adjust if necessary and remove the tiles once you are satisfied with the fit.
5. Apply a layer of vinyl tile adhesive to the opening with a notched trowel as directed in the written instructions. Lay the cut tiles one-by-one into the opening with the edges butting firmly against the adjacent tile. Run a small rubber roller over the surface with firm downward pressure to bed the tiles in.
6. Finish the installation with a bead of silicone around the toilet base.

Ceramic Tile

1. Prepare a Kraft paper template as described in the Sheet Vinyl section.
2. Tape the template temporarily to a second piece of Kraft paper with short strips of cellophane tape, so that it doesn't shift. Measure and mark the square outline of each tile on the template with a ruler and pencil. Ensure that the required grout-lines are marked out between each individual tile outline. Carry the lines across the underlying sheet for continuity and accuracy, and number each section to avoid confusion.
3. Cut out each tile template and discard the thin strips of Kraft paper representing the grout lines.
4. Position each template on a separate tile and draw the outline of the curved cut line onto the tile with a felt pen, using the edge of the template as a guide.
5. Lay the rest of the ceramic tiles on the floor as directed on the written instructions that came with the tile adhesive. Leave a square opening large enough to accommodate the cut tiles around the base of the toilet.
6. Oil the tungsten carbide wheel on the bottom of a patented tile and glass cutter with thin household machine oil. Place the tile on a smooth flat surface. Position the wheel on the end of the curved cut line.
7. Place your left index finger on the top of the protruding face off the downward sloping upper clamp; each side of the clamp slopes downward slightly, forming a small gap between the upper and lower faces of the clamp.
8. Exert firm downward pressure with both your right hand and left forefinger and draw the tungsten carbide wheel smoothly along the curved line on the tile.
9. Slide the edge of the cut line between the jaws of the clamp. Ensure that the cut line sits in the center of the clamp and that the curved line faces forward and sweeps to the right.
10. Squeeze the handles of the clamp together. Increase the clamp pressure gradually until one side of the tile splits cleanly away from the other side, neatly along the length of the curved cut line.
11. Repeat this action and cut the rest of the marked tiles the same way; remember to lubricate the tungsten carbide wheel before each cut.
12. Test fit the cut tiles into the opening surrounding the toilet base to ensure that all the tiles are cut correctly. Remove the tiles and spread a thin layer of ceramic tile adhesive onto the floor inside the opening with a notched trowel.
13. Lay each tile into the opening in the correct order as marked earlier. Bed the tiles down evenly with a rubber mallet and place grout line spacers in the joints between the tiles in preparation for final grouting.
14. Finish the joint between the tiles and the toilet base with a bead of silicone caulk as described above after grouting the floor.

Tips & Warnings

• Leave your sheet vinyl in a heated room for 24 hours prior to laying the floor to soften the vinyl and to increase its flexibility.

Source: www.eHow.com

How to Install a Tile Edge Backsplash

By Kevin McDermott, eHow Contributor

There are several ways to border a tile backsplash. Using tile itself is one of the best. If you don't want to deal with the durability and maintenance issues of putting wooden trim around the edges, get bullnose tiles, which are like regular wall tiles but are finished on one edge. That edge forms the border of your backsplash. The bullnose tiles can completely match the ``field'' tiles (as the main span of tiles are called), or you can pick entirely different colors and designs to set off the border from the rest of the backsplash.

Things You'll Need

• Level
• Square
• Pencil
• Tape measure
• Tile adhesive
• Adhesive trowel
• Wall tiles
• Bullnose tiles
• 1/8-inch tile spacers
• Tile cutter
• Grout
• Grout float
• Sponge
• Caulk gun with caulk

Instructions
1
Mark on a border on the wall where you want the perimeter of the main tiles of the backsplash to be (not including the bullnose tiles around the edges), using your level, square and tape measure. Mark a vertical line through the center of it.

2
Mark a second perimeter, around the first, to show where you want your bullnose tiles to go. The outer line should be as far outside the inner line as the width of a bullnose tile, plus 1/8 inch.

3
Spread tile adhesive over the whole inner area. Press your wall tiles into place, starting at the bottom row in the middle. Put spacers between the tiles, and at the bottom of the lowest row as well (to separate them from the countertop). Cut the end tiles as needed on your tile cutter.

4
Set your bullnose outer perimeter in place by "buttering" the back of each bullnose tile and setting it next to the inner tiles. Make sure the finished edge of each bullnose tile faces out from the backsplash. Separate them with tile spacers. Cut the bullnose tiles at the corners and by the countertop as needed.

5
Let all the tiles set overnight.

6
Pull out the spacers. Grout the whole backsplash, using your grout float to spread the grout over the tile face, pressing it into the lines between the tiles. Don't grout the horizontal joint between the bottom row of tiles and the countertop. Wipe off the excess grout with a damp sponge.

7
Let the grout set overnight.

8
Run a bead of caulk in the horizontal joint between the bottom row of tiles and the countertop.

Tips & Warnings
Wear eye protection when using your tile cutter.



Source: www.eHow.com

How to Lay Tile Without Grout Space

By Sarabeth Asaff, eHow Contributor

While any tile installation that must be waterproof does require grout to seal the joint between the tiles, many homeowners dislike the look of grout. If the tile job is to be done in a relatively dry area, such as wall tile or a floor that does not see a great deal of moisture, it is possible to install tiles without a grout joint.

To ensure that the tiles line up in straight, even lines and do not rub against one another causing damage in the event of the house settling, you must you vitrify tiles to complete the job.

Things You'll Need

• Vitrified tiles
• Pencil
• Straight edge
• Tile saw
• Thinset
• Trowel
• Beating block or 2-by-4 cut to 6 inches in length

Instructions
1
Purchase tiles that have been vitrified. Vitrified tiles come in ceramic and porcelain for wall and floor use. The tiles are made of compressed clay dust and fired to extremely high temperatures. This ensures that the tiles are all completely straight and square, meaning that they can be installed butted up to one another with no grout joint. The tiles will stay in even rows and will not damage one another from movement.

2
Lay out the vitrified tiles over the area you wish to install them. Butt the tiles right up against one another so they are touching and mark any tiles that will need to be cut to fit with a pencil and straight edge. Cut these tiles on a tile saw before proceeding.

3
Spread a small amount of thinset at a time over the area to be tiled with a trowel. Rake the thinset with the notched end of the trowel and press each of the vitrified tiles into the thinset in the order determined by your layout.

4
Beat the tiles into the thinset mortar with a beating block. Hit them with the flat side of the block, not the edge as this could damage the tiles. The beating will ensure that each tile is completely flat and well-bonded to the thin set. This is important, because there will be no grout joint to make up for any lippage, or tiles that stick up slightly at the sides.

5
Allow the thin set to dry for 24 hours before you walk on the tile installation.

Tips & Warnings

If you are laying tiles in a shower area, or area prone to a lot of moisture, you can still butt vitrified tiles together and then pack the joints with a small amount of unsanded grout. This will seal the tiles against moisture, while keeping the joint to the smallest amount possible.


Source: www.eHow.com

Slate Tile Flooring Cleaning In Northampton

Pictures below from rough slate tile flooring installed in the Kitchen and Toilet of a house in Northampton. The home owner had called us in to give the slate floor a clean and seal.

Cleaning the Slate Tile Flooring

We cleaned the slate tiled floor with a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean in order to strip any remaining sealer together with a buffing machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad. The buffing machine doesn’t get into the grout lines so well so we had to use hand brushes for that. The floor was washed down with clean water and then left to dry overnight.

Sealing Slate Tiled Flooring

We came back the next day to seal the floor using five coats Tile Doctor Seal and Go which provides stain resistance as well as adding a low sheen to the floor.


The home owner was very happy with work we did and left the comment below.

Effective and efficient service, would highly recommend Phil Vissian and the service provided.

Amanda, Northampton

Source: Slated Tiled Flooring Cleaned and Sealed

How to Restore Brick

by Emily Beach, Demand Media

Brick's natural clay composition not only gives this material its classic earth-colored finish, but also a tremendous level of strength and durability. Structures built from brick often outlast those made from wood or other materials, and some brick buildings date back several centuries. Over time, exposure to moisture and extreme temperatures may leave brick with signs of wear, including crumbling mortar and a dull or dirty finish. Cleaning and repairing old or damaged brick can restore this material to like-new condition and allow its natural beauty to shine through.

Things You Will Need

• Safety glasses
• Dust mask
• Masonry hammer
• Flat chisel
• Mortar mix
• Water
• Bucket
• Brick trowel
• Contouring tool
• Angle grinder
• Garden hose
• Household cleaner or dish detergent
• Natural bristle brush

Repair Damaged Mortar
1
Put on safety glasses and a dust mask.
2
Use a hammer and flat chisel to chip away loose or damaged mortar from between bricks. Work carefully to avoid chiseling the bricks themselves.
3
Mix masonry mortar in a bucket according to the manufacturer's instructions. Use a brick trowel to insert mortar into any gaps or empty joints between the bricks. Wipe excess mortar from the face of the bricks using the edge of the trowel.
4
Apply a brick contouring tool, or jointer, to the new joints. Choose a tool that can be used to create a profile that matches the existing mortar profile. For example, use a tool with a round profile if the existing mortar is rounded.

Clean the Brick
1
Make sure the mortar is thoroughly dry. Spray the brick with water from a garden hose until it is completely wet.
2
Spray or squirt a household cleaner, such as dish detergent, onto the brick.
3
Work the detergent into the brick using a natural bristle brush. Again spray the surface to rinse away dirt and detergent.
4
Wait for the wall to dry, then check your results. If the wall is clean, the project is complete. If there still are stains or dirt on the brick, repeat Steps 1 through 3 using a cleaner designed for use on brick.


Source: HomeGuides.sfgate.com

How to Put Tiles on Existing Shower Pans

by Alexis Rohlin, Demand Media


Shower floors, also called shower pans, are often tiled to create a stable standing surface for bare feet and to add decorative flair to the bathroom. When redecorating your bathroom, you may wish to redo the tiles in the shower floor with tiles that match your new decorating color scheme. You can put tiles over existing tiled shower pans as long as they are structurally intact, have no visible damage and do not leak.


Things You Will Need

• Screwdriver
• Masking tape
• Angle grinder
• Diamond-angle grinder blade
• Thinset mortar
• Trowel
• Waterproofing membrane
• Utility knife
• Sponge
• Drain grate
• Tile spacers
• Grout
• Rubber grout float
• Grout sealant

1
Remove the screws from the shower drain cover with a screwdriver and remove the cover.

2
Cover the drain and the edges of the shower pan with masking tape.

3
Run an angle grinder with a diamond blade over the existing tile to roughen them up and create grooves. The grooved surface gives the thinset mortar microscopic edges to cling to, allowing it to form a stronger watertight bond when the thinset cures.

4
Apply a layer of thinset mortar over the old tile with a mortar trowel.

5
Set a waterproofing membrane over the thinset mortar. Cut out a hole for the drain with a utility knife. Run you hands over the membrane to flatten it. Remove any air bubbles by running the trowel over the membrane. If any excess thinset oozes out the sides of the membrane, wipe it off with a damp sponge. Let the membrane sit for 24 hours to allow the thinset to cure.

6
Cut off the protruding knobs or the bolt holes from the top of the drain flange with the angle grinder.

7
Apply a layer of thinset mortar around the drain and on the bottom perimeter of the drain grate with the mortar trowel.

8
Remove the masking tape and insert the drain grate into the drain. Push it down firmly to ensure that the thinset covers the bottom of the grate where it extends onto the shower floor so that it creates a watertight seal when it cures.

9
Add thinset to the top of the waterproof membrane with the trowel. Begin laying the tile, staring at the area around the drain grate and working your way out toward the shower walls.

10
Insert tile spacers at the corners of the tiles to ensure that they are evenly spaced.

11
Apply the grout with a rubber grout float to the tile. Run the float over the tiles and push the grout between the spaces, or joints, of the tiles. Remove any excess grout with a damp sponge.

12
Apply two coats total of waterproof grout sealant to the grout on the tiles.



Source: www.HomeGuides.sfgate.com

Problems with Travertine in Shower

As you can see from these photographs we don’t just clean and seal stone floors we can also rectify problems with wall tiles as well. In this case our customer had a problem with Travertine installed in a shower at a house in Stockport which had not been sealed following installation. Travertine is porous and over time the tiles had becomes stained with the dyes and soap scum, mould had also managed to get a grip in the pores of the travertine.

How to Clean a Travertine Shower

To get the Travertine back to its original condition it was necessary to use a dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean with a set of six inch Burnishing pads, each one serves a different function from scrubbing to polishing, the polishing pads are applied with water and restore the shine on the surface of the tile. The Tile Doctor Pro-Clean also came in handy to clean the Grout, its best applied with a spay attachment so it can mix with air allowing it to dwell on the tile before being scrubbed with a stiff brush and washed down. The whole Travertine Shower tile was washed down with water and left to dry before sealing. Last step was to remove and replace the silicone seal at the bottom of the tray using mildew-resistant Mapei Mapeisil Silcone in Jasmine in order to match the grout.

How to seal Travertine Shower

Once the shower was dry we sealed the Travertine using two coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which brings out the natural colours in the stone as well as providing surface protection. The sealer will wear off over time so it will be necessary to reapply it from time to time however it will prevent the problems from re-occurring. The transformation was quite remarkable and the customer was extremely happy with the results.

 

Source: Problems with Travertine in Shower

How to Caulk a Large Gap Between Ceramic Tiles & Laminate Countertops

by Sarabeth Asaff, Demand Media

Tile is often used with countertops either on the wall surrounding the counter as a backsplash, or sometimes inlaid into the counter itself. Whenever there is a change in angle from the wall to the counter, or a change in material, such as tile to laminate, the space between the two areas must be caulked with a flexible joint filler to help seal the area and absorb small movements that could damage the tile job. If this gap is oversized, it can still be filled with caulk, but the caulk should be modified with sand, like grout, to help fill the area. Things

You Will Need

• Utility knife
• Sanded caulk, matched to color of grout
• Caulk gun

1. Cut the tip off of the tube of caulk with a utility knife. Try to cut off enough tip so that the resulting hole is just slightly smaller than the gap you are filling. If this is not possible due to the gap being larger than the widest spot on the tip, cut to the center of the tip to provide some control over the placement of the caulk.
2. Insert the tip of the caulk tube into the caulk gun. Push the plunger on the gun into the back of the tube and squeeze the trigger a few times to prime the tube and help get the caulk up to the tip.
3. Insert the tip of the gun into the gap between the counter and the tile in a corner or end of a row. Hold the gun close to upright rather than at an angle. Squeeze the trigger and slowly move the gun along the gap toward the other end of the row. Try to move the gun slowly enough that the resulting bead of caulk completely fills the gap; the faster you go the less caulk will be left behind.
4. Wet down your index finger with water and smooth the top of the caulk into place against the tile and the laminate. Let the caulk dry for 24 hours.

Tip

Most grout manufacturers make a matching caulk in both sanded and unsanded varieties. Purchase the matching color caulk to the grout, but get sanded no matter what was used on the tiles. The sand will add bulk to the caulk and help it fill the bigger gap.


Source: HomeGuides.sfgate.com

The Best Ways to Insulate a Floor

by Andrew Latham, Demand Media

Insulating your floors will reduce the energy costs of heating and cooling your home and increase its resale value. A well-insulated home is also easier to sell because lower utility costs are an attractive selling point for buyers. The best type or method of insulating your floor depends on how much insulation you need, how accessible the area you need to insulate is, and the availability and cost of insulation materials. You should also consider your climate and the methods you use to heat and cool your home when deciding which insulation to choose.

Rigid Foam

Rigid foam, also called foam board, provides a high insulating value to floors and ceilings. It is especially suitable for new-builds and areas without obstacles and a regular substructure. Rigid foam is made of polystyrene or polyurethane, both flammable materials, so you must cover it with half an inch of gypsum board or some other approved fire-resistant material to meet fire-safety standards.

Loose-Fill

Loose-fill insulation is a good choice when accessibility is an issue. It is not a do-it-yourself project because you will need specialized equipment and training. Loose-fill is usually made of fiberglass, cellulose or rock wool and is blown or poured into an area. This allows you to use it in attic floors, around obstacles and in retrofits where it is difficult to install rigid forms of insulation.

Rolls and Batts

Rolls and batts of insulation are an easy method to install insulation in floors. The rolls are made of fiberglass, mineral wool and natural fibers and are designed to fit the standard spacing between studs and joists. This method is suitable for do-it-yourself projects.

Reflective Systems

Reflective systems are made of aluminum foils with such materials as plastic film, cardboard or polyethylene bubbles as backing. Reflective systems are well-suited for floors because they are designed to reduce downward heat loss. Reflective systems are easy to install. If the area you need to insulate has obstructions, you can use the bubble-form reflective system, which is much more flexible and can be applied to irregular areas.

Source: HomeGuides.sfgate.com

Victorian Quarry Tiled Floor Restoration

This original Victorian quarry tiled floor was laid in the hallway of an old 1897 cottage dating back to built in the Norwich village of Great Melton. The owner was able to show me pictures from the early 1900s showing the then owner and the floor. It had been covered by carpet for several years and was covered in paint and other debris from the renovation work being carried out.

Cleaning the Victorian Quarry Tiled Floor

You can see from the pictures above that the floor was in quite a state and it took a day to whole day to clean. The floor area was only around 6m2 but consumed two litres of Tile Doctor Remove & Go which is a very strong tiled floor stripper that will just about shift anything and a further 2 litres of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean getting it clean. Once that was done we washed down the floor to neutralise the floor and left it to dry so it could be sealed the next day

Sealing the Victorian Quarry Tiled Floor

We returned the next day to seal the floor, for this we used four coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which gives a nice low sheen finish and is recommended for these types of floor, one litre of sealer was sufficient to do the job. You can see a huge improvement from the photographs which clearly show a stunning transformation.

   

Source: Victorian Quarry Tiles Restored in Norfolk

How to Prepare a Floor for Ceramic Tile and Weight

By Kevin McDermott, eHow Contributor

Ceramic tile floors are one of strongest, most solid surfaces you can lay, but they're only as good as what's under them. A solid underlay is especially crucial with ceramic tile because any movement will cause the tiles to loosen or crack. Plywood was once the preferred underlay, but most installers today use cement board. This material comes in rectangular sheets, like drywall, and can be easily cut with a utility knife. Once mortared to the floor, it provides the stability of a cement slab.

Things You'll Need

• 5/8-inch cement board sheets
• Pencil
• Thin set mortar
• Mortar trowel with notches
• Screw gun
• 11/2-inch galvanized screws
• Tape measure
• Utility knife
• Mesh drywall tape

Instructions

1. Lay a cement board in one corner of the room and mark around it with a pencil. Remove the board. Use your mortar trowel to apply a thin set mortar over marked area onto the subfloor.
2. Put the cement board back in place, setting it into the mortar. Walk over it to press it down tightly.
3. Screw down the board with 11/2-inch galvanized screws, using your screw gun. Put screws about every foot. Sink them deep enough so the screw heads are just slightly below the surface.
4. Lay additional pieces of the cement board end to end off the first one, along the wall, spreading more mortar as you go and driving in screws every square foot. Cut the last board, by the perpendicular wall, with a utility knife, scoring it and then snapping it along the scored line.
5. Continue setting boards for the subsequent courses, starting a full board next to the one you cut at the end so the edges are staggered. Avoid making any four-way intersections.
6. Press mesh drywall tape over the seams between the boards. Cover the tape with thin-set mortar, using the flat edge of the mortar trowel. Get it flat and smooth. Let it dry for one to two days. You can now tile the floor.

Tips & Warnings

• Wear protective eye goggles when driving in the screws.

Source: www.eHow.com

What Kills Mold on Bathroom Tile?

By Larry Parr, eHow Contributor

Several different types of mold can grow on bathroom tiles and in the grout between tiles. Some of these molds can be hazardous to your health, and almost all molds detract visually from the pristine look of bathroom tile. Molds require high humidity (above 55 percent) to grow and spread, so keeping the humidity level down in the bathroom is a good way to stop mold growth and to prevent new growth.

Seal off the Bathroom
Mold reproduces by spores, which are microscopic and easily become airborne, allowing them to spread from room to room whenever mold is disturbed. Therefore, you should seal your bathroom door with plastic and tape, allow any vent fans to run and, if possible, keep an air purifier running in the room as well whenever you are killing bathroom mold.

Dampen the Tiles Before Beginning
Spray plain water on the tiles and their mold colonies before beginning the cleanup job. Use a standard spray bottle. Dampening the mold will help keep the spores from flying up into the air and possibly spreading to other parts of the house as you clean.

Rubbing Alcohol
Fill a spray bottle with 70 to 91 percent rubbing alcohol, and spray all tiles and the grout between them even if you cannot see any mold growth in a particular area. Mold spores are invisible to the naked eye and can remain dormant in grout or on tiles for many months before growing. Do not wipe the rubbing alcohol off, but allow it to dry. Wear eye goggles when spraying, and do not breathe the alcohol vapors any more than necessary.

Bleach
Dilute normal household bleach in a spray bottle using 10 parts water to 1 part bleach. Wear old clothing when spraying bleach as even diluted bleach may remove colors from clothes. Spray the bleach and water solution liberally on all tiles, even tiles which do not currently show signs of mold growth. Do not wipe off. Allow the bleach and water to remain on the tiles until dry. Wear eye goggles when spraying, and do not breathe the vapors.

Hydrogen Peroxide
Pour hydrogen peroxide straight from the bottle into a spray bottle. Spray onto all tile and all grout liberally, and let it dry. Wear eye goggles when spraying, and try not to breathe in the vapors.

Heavy-Duty Mold Killers
If the methods described so far fail to kill the mold growing on your bathroom tiles or on the grout between the tiles, you may need to resort to a commercial mold killer. Read labels and look for ingredients such as quarternary ammonium compounds, phenolic, iodophor or glutaraldehyde. Always wear a breathing mask as well as gloves and eye protection when using any of these chemicals as many of them can be toxic, and all are hazardous in some way. Read and follow all label directions precisely.


Source: www.eHow.com

Mold Prevention Tips

• Make an environment unfavorable to mold growth. Mold thrives on moist surfaces- especially dark warm crevices. You can start by simply letting some light into your bathroom by opening the curtains if there's a window in there. If there is not a window, you can leave a light on now and then-preferably one that is energy efficient.
• Opening a window to allow fresh air in may also help, however, if you happen to live in a humid climate-such as Florida, it may be wiser to simply turn on the air conditioning and make use of fans.
• Control humidity to prevent bathroom mold.
  Keep humidity levels below 60% at all times. 30-50 percent humidity is far better. Some air conditioning units allow you to set your humidity level, otherwise you can buy a Relative Humidity Meter to keep track of your humidity. I've seen them online for less than $100.
• Good ventilation is a must.
  When you take a shower, the steam accumulates on the surfaces throughout the bathroom. A bathroom fan helps draw excess steam out of your bathroom. If you don't have a fan, and keep the door shut while showering, the steam has nowhere else to go and so the condensation will collect around your bathroom on places such as the mirror, ceiling and shower walls. This practically sends an invitation for mold spores to grow.
• After showers, use a squeegee to wipe excess water off your shower walls.
• Towel dry surfaces with excess moisture such as floors, walls, and even the ceiling (Tip: you can put a towel on the end of a broom for better reach)
• Keep fewer products in your bathtub for mold to grow on. Shampoo & conditioner bottles, body wash, razors, shaving gel, bath salts, washcloths, loofah sponges, cups, toys and other items left in and around your bathtub provide convenient crevices for mold spores to grow and hide behind. These items should be limited in a mold prone bathroom, and the ones you do leave in your bathroom should be cleaned with a mold removal product and dried thoroughly.
• Wash bathroom rugs frequently to prevent bathroom mold
• Use a mildew resistant shower curtain or wash shower curtains a couple times/year in the washing machine, or replace it as needed.
• Keep your towels free of mold. A moldy towel will smell sour or stale. You can add vinegar to the wash to help freshen them. Never throw wet towels in a hamper or on the floor. Always hang towels up to dry. If your bathroom is prone to mold, it might help to hang your towels up outside to air dry.
• Clean your bathroom regularly with products that will not endanger your family’s health or the environment
• Beware of Abrasive Products. Abrasive cleansers and scrubbing products can cause bathroom surfaces to wear out more quickly which also makes the bathroom more susceptible to mold growth.

Read more: WriteStudio.com

Removing Grout Haze from Slate Tile Flooring

You may remember a previous Limestone floor job we did for a Mrs Schwartz from Stourbridge, well true to her word she invited us back to clean and seal the slate tile flooring in her hallway which had been left with grout smears (aka grout haze) on the surface after tiling. Grout smears can be removed however if the floor is sealed it’s necessary to remove the sealer first.

Cleaning Grout Haze off Slate Tile Flooring

To remove the sealer and clean off the grout smears we used a 50/50 mix of Tile Doctor Remove and Go combined with Nanotech Ultra-Clean for added effect, the solution was left to dwell on the surface of the slate for 15 minutes to break down the polymers in the grout. The next step was to turn on a high pressure spinner tool which is a very effective cleaning tool on its own; the water from the spinner tool also washes away any chemicals and neutralises the floor ready for sealing.

Sealing Slate Tiles

We speed dried the slate tile flooring using a number of industrial fans and applied three coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which offers a good combination of stain resistance with a low sheen finish that brings out the natural colours in the slate.



Source: Cleaning Slate Tile Flooring

How to Install Limestone Tile

By Emily Beach, eHow Contributor

Limestone is a natural stone product known for its relatively soft texture, similar to marble. This material offers the look of more expensive stone tiles at a lower cost, and can be used in almost any room of the home. The key to successful limestone tile installation is careful preparation of the subfloor, which can greatly reduce the risk of cracks or damage. Take the time to carefully prepare your floor for this tile and enjoy the beauty and texture of natural limestone in your home.

Things You'll Need

• Drill
• 2-inch deck screws
• Vacuum
• Thinset mortar
• Notched trowel
• 1/2- to 3/4-inch cement board
• Jigsaw
• 2-inch cement board screws
• Mesh tape
• Chalk line
• Wet saw
• Safety glasses
• Spacers
• Tile sealer
• Paintbrush or roller
• Grout
• Grout float
• Rags

Instructions
Prepare the Subfloor

1. Fasten any loose sections of the subfloor more securely to the joists below, using 2-inch-long deck screws. Focus on areas that squeak or move when walked in.
2. Vacuum the floor to remove dust and debris.
3. Spread thinset mortar over the entire subfloor surface, using a notched trowel. Lay cement backerboard over the mortar, butting the sheets tightly together.
4. Screw in 2-inch-long cement backerboard screws every 6 to 8 inches along the edges of each board.
5. Cover the seams between each board with a 2- to 3-inch-wide line of thinset, then cover the thinset with mesh tape. Allow the mortar to dry.

Install the Tiles

1. Snap a chalk line from the center of each wall to the wall opposite. The point where these lines intersect is the center of the room. Start installing your tiles at this point to minimize the impact of walls that may be crooked or uneven.
2. Lay out your limestone tiles without the use of mortar. Decide on the pattern you will use, including any accents or borders.
3. Cut tiles to fit, using a wet saw with a diamond blade. Keep your safety glasses in place to protect your eyes when using this type of saw.
4. Remove a small area of tiles from the floor and spread thinset mortar over the cement board, using a notched trowel. Place the tiles firmly onto the thinset, pressing them in place by hand. Use plastic spacers to maintain even grout lines between each tile. Repeat this process until all tiles have been secured to the subfloor.
5. Apply a penetrating stone sealer to the limestone, using a paintbrush or roller. Follow the directions on the sealer to determine how much to use. Allow the sealer to dry overnight.
6. Mix grout according to the manufacturer's instructions. Pour the grout onto the tile and use a grout float to force it into the joints between the tiles. Immediately wipe excess grout from the surface of each tile, using a clean, damp rag.

Tips & Warnings

• Choose sanded grout for joints wider then 1/8 inch, or unsanded grout for joints narrower than 1/8 inch.

Source: www.eHow.com

Sealing Reproduction Victorian Tiles

These Victorian Tiles had been laid in a hallway floor ten years prior and sealed with what turned out to be an impregnator that had long ago lost its strength through oxidation and years of cleaning with flash which is far too strong and attacks sealers. What was left of the sealer was easily stripped off with Tile Doctor Pro-Clean agitated using a rotary scrubber and then washed down with a hot pressure wash.

Sealing Victorian Tiles

We offer the customer a choice when it comes to choice of sealer as there are a number of sealers we recommend and each one can leave a different finish, we can also apply a sample of the different sealers to a few tiles but it isn’t always a reliable way of telling the difference. In this case we sealed the Victorian tiles with 8 coats of Tile Doctor Seal & Go which is ideal for Victorian tiled floors and leaves a low sheen finish.


However the story doesn’t end there, the customer decided the Victorian tiles looked too shiny and wanted a more matt finish. It’s the customer’s choice in the end so we removed the Seal and Go and sealed the tiles again using Tile Doctor Pro-Seal which is a no-sheen, natural look penetrating sealer and the results were great. For regular cleaning of sealed floors we recommend using a Neutral PH cleaner such as Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner.



Sealing Victorian Tiles

Cleaning Granite Countertops

By Sarah Aguirre, About.com Guide

What Are Granite Countertops?

Granite is a super tough stone that is formed from volcanic magma. Granite has earned a reputation as a great building stone. It ranges in color, but is known for how beautiful it is, especially for countertops.

Granite Countertop Pros:

Granite countertops are gorgeous additions to a home, with each piece like a unique work of art. Because granite is available in so many colors, homeowners have many options to choose from. Granite is also very durable and resists heat. This makes it great for kneading dough, making roll-out cookies, and other tasks that need a cool countertop for best results.

Granite Countertop Cons:

Granite requires regular maintenance. Besides just cleaning, you'll need to make sure the granite is sealed periodically. Stains can be difficult to remove, but not impossible. Countertops may also be susceptible to cracking.

Basic Cleaning:

To keep granite countertops clean, use a microfiber cloth to dust off the surface. Wipe down the granite countertop daily and as needed using water. Once a week wipe down with a damp cloth and a stone cleaner formulated with a neutral pH. Never use harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners. They can scratch, pit, and etch the surface of the stone. For oily stains, try a poultice made of a cup of flour or baking soda and 5 tablespoons of dish soap. Add water to make it the consistency of sour cream or yogurt. Place the solution directly on the stain and cover with plastic wrap overnight, before washing away the poultice.

Seasonal Maintenance:

Sealing is a regular maintenance task for granite. Re-seal the countertop when water splashed on the surface no longer beads up. It's important to examine your granite at least once a year. Inspect areas to make sure there is no cracking or shifting at the seams. Inspect for stains and scratches as well. If there are stains or damage, contact a stone-care professional for repair.


Source: HouseKeeping.About.com

Cleaning Terracotta Tiles Marked With Dirty Boot Prints

I had a rather long conversation with this worried terracotta flooring customer. This was a new installation of around 30 m2 of terracotta tiles. The tiler had laid the tiles and was in the process of sealing with a rather nasty rubber based yellow coloured sealer when his assistant walked through from outside with dirty boots. Being a very absorbent tile the dirty prints penetrated into the tiles within the sealer leaving lovely dirty chevrons all over the new floor.

To rectify this the tiler tried first of all with Nitromors and then with Gripex paint and glue strippers. Using these on any tile is not a good idea but on terracotta due to porosity all it was sink in and remain there along with the foot print. So at this point the tiler decided to try angle grinding one of the tiles which eventually he did manage to take out one of the prints although damaging the integrity of the tile. After visiting a tillers forum he was wrongly advised to sand the tiles with an industrial sander so he hired a sander for a day and set about sanding the tile back. After spending a fortune on sandpaper that just got gunked up with rubber sealer and a days of labour he had managed to sand around 5sqm and cover the whole house with orange dust...

This was when he said ‘ok enough is enough just don’t pay me for the tiling’ and walked off the job!

I spent two days stripping the sealer out with Tile Doctor Remove and Go and cleaning with Tile Doctor Pro-Clean assisted with a rotary machine fitted with a scrubbing pad in order to remove both the sealer and the dirty foot prints. After a hot pressure wash to clear the pores and remove any remaining chemical from the floor we left it to dry for a week.

Sealing Terracotta Tiles

We sealed the Terracotta Tiles with Tile Doctor Seal and Go which is a low sheen water based sealer recommended for Terracotta floors. Terracotta is quite porous and in this case the tiles required a lot of sealer where tops had been sanded off and in the end it took 12 coats before if was fully sealed.

The results were outstanding, you wouldn’t know that there had been any damage at all and the customer was very happy, not only that the job cost less than what was due to the tiler.

Source: Terracotta Tiles Restoration