Cheshire Expert Details how to Remove Mould and Completely Renovate a Ceramic Tiled Shower Cubicle

I was asked by a Chelford homeowner (near Alderley Edge) to renovate their Ceramic Tiled Shower Cubicle which had an unsightly mould problem. They say pictures speak louder than words, so I’ve added some photos on this page which show how the grout and silicone sealant had become discoloured with mould over the ten years since it was installed.

 

Mould likes damp warm areas and shower cubicles make a perfect habitat for it, grout especially can be a problem due to its cementitious rough surface that mould can get a grip on. In this case the ventilation in the ensuite was inadequate and ideally there should have been an extraction vent over the cubicle itself. My advice in these situations is to leave doors and windows open after showering and to run the cold water afterwards.

 

Removing Mould from a Ceramic Tiled Shower Cubicle

To renovate the Tile and Grout I sprayed on Tile Doctor Duo-Clean which was left to soak into the grout line for ten minutes before being scrubbed in by hand. The Ceramic tiles cleaned quite easily but the grout had to be scrubbed hard and needed several applications before I was satisfied.

The whole shower needed treating in this fashion and once rinsed and dried I set about stripping out all the old silicone sealant that had also been badly affected by mould. This is done carefully using a sharp knife. I removed the debris and moved onto applying a fresh mould resistant silicone sealant.

Sealing a Ceramic Tiled Shower Cubicle

Last step before leaving was to spray the Ceramic tile and especially the Grout and Silicone with a can of Tile Doctor Aerosol Grout Sealer. This doesn’t last as long as other sealants in the Tile Doctor range but its quick to apply, especially on wall tiles. The sealer ensures water will run straight off the walls into the shower tray and it also makes the shower easier to clean later.

 

The shower looked like a new installation by the time I had finished, and my client was delighted with the transformation. He was also thankful that I had replaced the silicone, this was something he had considered doing himself but applying it does take practice and you can get yourself into a mess. 

Source: Bathroom Tile and Grout Cleaning and Renovation Service in Cheshire

9 Ways You're Ruining Your Wood Flooring

You’ve spent the time, the money, and the effort putting in that new hardwood floor—and it shows! Protect your investment by following a few simple rules, and keep that floor looking showroom-worthy for years to come.

1. An Un-Welcome Entry

You’re probably ready to invite friends and neighbors over to ogle your newest project, but before you do, roll out the Welcome Mat. Literally. This simple thing is more than a gesture to let your guests know they’re welcome in your home. It’s also a reminder to wipe your feet before coming inside. Besides the obvious dirt and grime that can enter your home, smaller pieces of grit can get ground in, causing your floor to age prematurely. And who wants to look older than they are?

2. No Shoes, No Entry!

Yes, we know. Wear and tear is bound to happen, but some things cause wear and tear to happen much quicker—high heels, for instance. So, we’d like to offer a suggestion. For some, it might sound extreme, but it’s a common custom in many cultures around the world. If you’re comfortable doing so, now's the time to institute the “no shoes in the house” rule. It’s probably more convenient if you live in a climate where "slippahs" are the norm, but it’s still a good practice in general.

Aside from the regular foot traffic and high heels that can wear down the floor, keeping shoes out of the house also prevents the possibility of tracking dangerous chemicals like arsenic or lead into your home. These chemicals are sometimes present in the soil of homes near refineries. Check with your local university extension services for information on how to test the soil for these chemicals.

3. Using Wrong Floor Cleaners

They may all sound alike, but they aren’t all made the same. The wrong cleaner can contain abrasives, waxes, or harsh chemicals, which can either strip or cause a waxy buildup that can dull the floor. Verify with the installer or manufacturer what types and methods of floor cleaning are best for your particular product.

4. Unprotected Furniture Feet

Attaching felt pads under the feet of your furniture is a must. Even small adjustments made to straighten out the coffee table or push a sofa away from the wall are enough to mar the surface. These pads are inexpensive and attach to the bottom of the feet with a peel-and-stick adhesive side to keep them in place.

5. Too Much Sunlight

Just like you don’t want the sun’s rays to hit your skin without proper UV protection, the same goes for your floor. Direct sunlight can fade the finish and cause discoloration, which becomes obvious when you move the furniture or rugs to expose those previously protected sections. Keep direct sunlight to a minimum by closing blinds or drapes during those times of the day. And consider rearranging furniture now and then to allow you to clean the neglected spots and hidden areas and offer shade to those areas that were once exposed.

6. Wrong Rug Pad

A nice area rug adds warmth and coziness to a room in addition to protection from sun exposure and foot traffic. Keep you and your guests safe by installing non-slip padding underneath. Rubber-backed mats have great non-slip qualities, can dull the finish. Consider rug pads that contain a combination of felt and rubber to keep those rugs from moving around and causing tripping hazards.

7. Improper Vacuum Attachment

The beater brush used for rugs is—ahem—for rugs. The floor attachment is a less aggressive cleaning method that sucks up the never-ending amount of grit and dust bunnies that seem to escape no matter how much sweeping and vacuuming we do.

8. Pet Nails

It’s not just the nails of large, heavy dogs that can scratch up the floor. Your little fur babies might not have the weight behind them, but they have claws, and if they can scratch up your skin, they can do the same to the floor. Keeping those nails trimmed reduces the likelihood of damage while increasing your sanity by reducing the infernal clicking of their toes when they walk around at night!

9. Put the Brakes on Those Wheels

The convenience of a home office has never been so important as it has been in the past year. A dedicated space must include the all-important rolling office chair. Put a rug or padded mat under that chair to keep scratches at bay. Trust us—we’ve already suffered through the heartache of this tragedy. Please learn from our mistake.

With your new floor in place, keep wear and tear to a minimum by following these simple rules so you can enjoy the new look without worrying about every new scratch that happens.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Refinish Marble Tiles

 Marble tiles make a beautiful accent to any home. However, they need to be regularly cleaned and buffed to bring out the natural beauty of their finish. Like any other flooring material, they are susceptible to scratches and discoloration that may dull the finish. It is easy to refinish marble tiles using a few simple tools and cleaning products that you can purchase at the hardware or home improvement store. Remember to wear appropriate clothing and to use safety equipment such as gloves and goggles when handling chemicals and power tools.

What you’ll need

• Variable speed angle grinder
• Buffing compound and polyester buffing pad
• Water
• Detergent
• Sponge
• Tile or marble stone sealer
• Terry cloth towel

 

Step 1 – Clean the Marble Tiles

Clean the marble tiles using water and mild detergent. Agitate the area using a soft sponge to safely remove dirt, oil and stains on the surface. Let the surface dry before proceeding.

Step 2 – Buff the Surface

Apply an appropriate amount of buffing compound or marble refinishing compound to the buffing pad and use the angle grinder to buff the surface of the marble tile. Apply plenty of water on the marble tiles to provide better lubrication for the buffing pad. Work in a small area at a time. Follow the directions stated on the container of the buffing compound to find the right amount of compound required.

Concentrate the grinder for at least 30 seconds on each tile to thoroughly remove scratches and other contaminants on the surface. Apply more water as needed. Move the grinder in small circular motions to polish the entire surface evenly.

Step 3 – Clean the Area

Pour additional water on the buffed surface to remove excess compound. Wipe the area dry with a terry cloth towel. Pay special attention to the surrounding areas and fixtures that may have been splashed with the buffing compound during the buffing process. Remove any excess compound with a wet towel or sponge and wipe it dry.

Step 4 – Apply Sealer

Use a soft paint brush to seal the marble tiles after refinishing. This will help protect the surface against stains and mild scratches. When using chemical based compounds, follow the directions on the packaging of the marble sealer. A single coat is enough to protect the surface, but applying two coats of sealer is highly recommended. Let the first coat dry before applying a final coat.

Open surrounding windows and doors when using sealers to enhance indoor ventilation. This will help prevent the inhalation of harmful vapors and fumes that may lead to allergic reactions and other health related concerns. Wear a mask when working with sealers and other chemical based compounds. Protective eyewear is also recommended to prevent irritation.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Build a Ceramic Tile Cutter

 A ceramic tile cutter is an important tool for cutting border tiles during floor tile installation. A ready-made tile cutter with base, clamp, and cutter in one unit can cost a lot of money. To lessen the cost, make an improvised ceramic tile cutter unit with a table base instead.

What you’ll need

• Handheld Tile Cutter
• Table (2-3 feet in width and at least 3 feet in length)
• 1x1 or 2x2 Wooden Board
• Drill
• Screws
• Screwdriver
• Meter Stick
• Two C-Clamps
• Saw

Step 1 – Setting up the Table

Determine which side edge of the table to work with. For right-handed people, the right side edge is best. On the back length of the tabletop, secure the meter stick on the edge with the scaled markings, rising up and facing toward the tabletop. Half of the width of the meter stick should be rising from the tabletop and the scales should be in centimeters (or in inches depending on one’s preference). The end of the stick should be flush with the right side edge of the table. At the back of the meter stick, on the lower half of its width, pre-drill screw holes 2 inches apart. Set the screws and tighten them.

Step 2 – Installing the Fixed Straight Edge

Cut two 1x1 or 2x2 wooden boards exactly the same width as the table. Position one on top of the table with the tip exactly on the starting edge of the meter stick and the length perpendicular with the meter stick. The other board will serve as the straight edge guide for cutting the tile.

Step 3 – Positioning the Tile on the Table Base

To prepare a tile for cutting, position it on top of the table with one side flush with the fixed wooden beam and the other side flush with the meter stick. The meter stick and the beam will ensure that the tile is positioned at a right angle. Position one of the C-clamps on the back length of the table and use it to clamp the left side corner of the tile. Tighten the clamp, but make sure not to put too much pressure to avoid breaking the tile.

Step 4 – Marking, Scoring and Cutting the Tile

Using the scales on the meter stick, determine where the tile will be cut. Use the straight edge wooden beam as a guide; mark the tile with a pencil. With the straight edge in position, use the other clamp to secure it on top of the tile. Take the hand-held tile cutter and position it on top of the marked line. Place the tip of the cutter exactly on the marked line, apply pressure and score the entire line downwards to the bottom edge. Remove the clamps and the straight edge, move the tile towards the right side edge of the table until the scored line is in line with the edge. Press the left side of the tile with the left hand and push the right side of the tile slightly downwards until it snaps off.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Restore the Polish on old Marble Floor Tiles

This Black and White Marble tiled hallway floor at a Grade II listed property in the village of Tattenhall has quite a history. The building was constructed in 1865 and at one time it has been the home to the high sheriff of Cheshire, and the family home of Edith Wignall the daughter of Sir Henry Tate the founder of the sugar company Tate and Lyle.

In more recent years the property had been used as a council building and even a nursing home for the elderly. After a long history of decline it has now been restored to a lavish family mansion however the marble floor had suffered over the years and still need attention. The current owner had been in touch as they wanted it restoring and basically brought back to life.

 

As it turns out I had already planned to go to Tattenhall the following week to work on another listed building which was formerly the village bank. After discussing the Marble floor over the phone, I agreed a date and time to pop over from the bank and inspect the floor in detail. I can provide a rough quote from photographs, which has been especially useful recently, but it’s far better for all concerned if I’m able to properly survey the floor first.

The Marble floor consisted of Black and White Mable tiles laid in a diamond pattern, it wasn't a very large area perhaps 9 square metres in total. The tiles were well worn as described but also stained and scratched. I would see they would need a deep burnish and polish to bring them back to life and then protected with a fresh sealer. Following on from that visit I was able to provide an accurate quote which was accepted, and a date agreed for my return.

 

Removing Scratches and Stains from a Marble Tiled Entrance Hall Floor

The first job was to protect the surrounding heavy wooden panelling with masking film. The floor was very heavily stained yellow with deep scratches, to remove these I would have to grind the marble back until a clean fresh tile was left. To start I used a 200-grit coarse pad fitted to a weighted buffing machine, the abrasive action of the pad was lubricated with water. After inspection I found that the staining and scratches were still there, so I needed to use stronger pads, so I worked my way through a set of very coarse milling pads starting at a 50, 100 and finishing with a 200-grit pad. Again, water was used to lubricate, and the resultant slurry was removed by a powerful wet vacuum and washed down between each pad.

The milling pads had the desired effect, and I was then able to bring back the polished appearance of the Marble surface using a set of finer burnishing pads with the same process. The 400 and 800-grit pads helped to clean and remove the fine scratches left by the milling pads and then the next 1500-grit pad started to build the shine back on the marble tile.

After finishing with 1500-grit pad I washed the Marble with Tile Doctor Stone Soap and vacuumed up the residue with the wet vacuum. I left an industrial blower in place overnight to dry out the floor ready for the next morning when it would be sealed.

Sealing a Marble Tiled Entrance Hall Floor

The next morning, I used the last of the four burnishing pads which is a very fine 3000-grit to polish the floor further. This last pad is applied dry with just a spray of water to create a high gloss finish.

When I was happy, I sealed the floor with two coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is an impregnating sealer that soaks into the fine pores of the Marble to protect it from within. This product also improves colour and after application it was left to soak into the tile for five minutes before polishing off and then leaving it to dry.

 

The last step was to I buff the floor with a white pad. The finish was impressive, and the family were very happy with the work we had carried out. For aftercare I recommended they use Stone Soap as its designed for the regular cleaning of sealed and polished stone, as well as cleaning it also helps build the patina.

Source: Marble Floor Cleaning and Polishing in Cheshire

Steps To Laying A New Subfloor

 If you’ve removed an old floor to replace it only to find that the subfloor underneath is damaged, you will have to replace the subfloor before installing a new floor. While this is not an easy task, a do-it-yourselfer can complete the job with a few pointers. Here’s what you need to know.

What you’ll need

• ¼ -inch plywood
• Hammer
• Nails
• Tape measure
• Hand Saw
• Straight ruler
• Jig Saw
• Circular Saw

Step 1: Remove Old Baseboards

The baseboards will be replaced after you install the new subfloor, but in the meantime you will need to get the baseboards off the wall. Place them aside if you plan on reusing the same boards.

Step 2: Take Measurements

Measure the dimensions of the room you are installing the floor in. You will want to allow a 1/8-inch gap for natural expansion at each edge. Sketch the dimensions on a piece of paper as you measure. This will help you create a diagram to scale to use as a guide for the materials.

Step 3: Orientation

You need to figure out what way you will want to lay the flooring. Remember you need to use the least number of plywood sheets you can. So use your diagram to figure out which direction will give you the most coverage.

Step 4: Start Laying the Plywood

Start by laying one piece of plywood down on the old floor starting in the corner. Remember to leave your 1/8-inch for expansion. Nail this piece down using plenty of nails. They are cheap and will make the floor quieter once it’s finished.

Step 5: Lay Subsequent Pieces

You can now use your jig saw or circular saw to make cuts to the next few pieces and lay them out so they fit snugly. Lay them out in one row from wall to wall.

Once you have finished the first row you can move on to the second row. You will want to use a plywood piece that’s about half the length of the first one. This will create the seams that you need for the subfloor. It should look similar to what a bricklayer would do.

Step 6:  Keep Working Until It’s Finished

You will want to continue laying the flooring down in this manner until you have completed the entire area. Go back over and make sure all the pieces are nailed down securely and the seams are even.

You’ve just finished your new subfloor, and can now start working on laying the new floor down. Once the floor is done you can go back and reattach your baseboards and add any finishing touches.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Soften the Edge after Cutting Ceramic Tile

Cutting ceramic tiles can lead to sharp and serrated edges. These edges require smoothing for both safety reasons and aesthetic appeal. Here is how to soften the edge after cutting ceramic tiles.

What you’ll need

• Protective eye wear
• Work gloves
• Low grit sandpaper
• High grit sandpaper
• A power sander
• A low grit file
• A high grit file
• Cement/concrete slab
• Step 1 – Safety
• Put on your protective eye wear and work gloves.

Step 2 – Sanding the Edges by Hand

The type of sandpaper used to smooth the tiles will depend on the roughness of the edges. The rougher the tile edge, the more abrasiveness needed on the sandpaper. Begin with a sixty grit sandpaper. Use the sandpaper to dull the rough and serrated edges on the tile. Continue the sanding process with finer sandpaper, moving up to a four hundred grit level. The finest sandpaper should be used to smooth and polish the tile edges. 

Step 3 - Power Sanding the Edges

A rotary sander works well with curved tiles and a belt sander is best with flat edged tiles. Use a low grit sandpaper. Connect the paper to the power sander. Gently sand the tile edges. Stop to check the edges often to be sure you are not removing more tile than you would like. Once the sharp edges are dull, polish them with a four hundred grit paper. 

Step 4 – Filing the Edges

Use an abrasive file to begin filing the sharp edges of the tiles. Once the edges are dull, use a finer file to continue the process until the edges are smooth and polished.

Step 5 – Other Smoothing Techniques

Concrete and cement can be used to smooth straight edges if you are unable to locate any sandpaper or files. Hold the tile securely. Gently slide the tile edge along the concrete or cement. This process may not produce a polished texture to the edge, but it will reduce any dangerous sharp edges.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com