How to Properly Clean Tile Grout Residue

Having clean tile grout is important to have a bathroom wall that looks nice. Once the tile is installed, grout is applied over the entire wall. It is pressed into the spaces between each tile using a rubber grout float. Until the grout sets and dries it can still be easily removed from the surface of the tile. It is not impossible to miss areas on the tile. Once the grout dries it will leave a grout residue or haze on the surface of the tile. You can clean tile grout haze and residue easily from the surface of the tiles and the following article will show you how to correctly do it.

What You'll Need:

• White distilled vinegar
• Spray bottle
• Water
• Green scrub pad
• Sponge
• Clean rag
• Baking soda
• Plastic bowl

Step 1 - Start Simple First

If you happen to notice a haze or residue forming on the tile within a day you can still clean the tile grout haze without chemicals. The simplest way to do this is to use warm water. Soak a normal sponge in the warm water and squeeze out the excess water. You want the sponge to be damp but not soaking wet. Use medium pressure and wipe clean the tile grout residue off of the surface of the tile. Dry the area with a clean rag and then run your hand over the area. If the residue was removed the tile will feel smooth whereas if there is still a residue on the tile it will feel somewhat coarse.

Step 2 - Use a Vinegar Solution

Vinegar is one of those household products that make for a great cleaner and can cut through grime and dirt. It can also clean tile grout residue. Fill a clean spray bottle with 4-parts warm water and 1-part white vinegar. Spray down the tile and allow the vinegar and water solution to work for a minute or two and then wipe down the tile with a clean rag. You can increase the strength of the solution by adding more vinegar. You can then clean the tiles off with pure water. If this does not clean the tile grout residue then you will need to use a stronger method.

Step 3 - Make a Chemical Reaction

You normally want to stay away from strong cleaners that you find in the store because some of them can eat away at the grout. They also are not very friendly to the environment and some can be dangerous to you if inhaled. They are always a last resort. This does not mean a simple chemical reaction cannot be used to clean tile grout residue. You will need a bowl, baking soda, water, and vinegar. Place baking soda in a bowl and add a few drops of water. Stir the water into the baking soda until it forms a smooth paste. Add water as needed. Apply the paste to the tile with a dry sponge. Fill a clean and dry water spray bottle with vinegar and then spray the area. The baking soda will react to the vinegar causing it to bubble and fizz. Once the chemical reaction slows or stops, simply wipe the area down with a damp rag.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Cleaning Unsealed Tile Floor Grout

Unsealed tile floor grout can be a challenge to keep clean. Depending on where the tile is located in the home, you might end up doing it more frequently than in other places. Floor tile adds a tremendous impact to the overall beauty of a room. The popularity of tile is directly related to the wide variety of different sizes, shapes, styles, and colors. While tile is relatively easy to keep clean, unsealed floor grout has a tendency to accumulate dirt, stains, and grime.

Keep Clean to Retain Beauty

As time goes on, and the tile is traveled on more, the grout will begin to collect dirt, mud, water, and stains that will drastically change its appearance. What was once a bright white is now going to be a dingy gray color. Cleaning the tile on a frequent basis, will help the tile retain its beauty and shine.

Clean Floor

Using a broom or vacuum, sweep the floor of any dirt and debris. You can also mop the floor with some warm water and mild dish soap. This will help loosen up any surface dirt and grime.

Test a Spot

Using a small area of the floor, test a small spot in the grout to make sure the cleaning products will work. Sprinkle some baking soda on the grout and then pour a little vinegar on it. It will begin to foam. Let it work for a few minutes. This foaming is a chemical reaction that will begin working on the stains in the grout. Scrub off with a small hand brush to see if it worked.

If not, apply some of the chlorine bleach. Again, let is set up for a few minutes and then scrub with a small brush. Choose whichever method works best on the grout. Chances are, the baking soda and vinegar will work just fine.

Spread Baking Soda

Sprinkle the baking soda on the grout lines throughout the room. Follow this up with the vinegar. Again, it will begin to foam immediately. Let this happen for a few minutes and then begin scrubbing the floor with the floor brush. Apply a firm pressure and work it back and forth across the floor.

Mop up the Floor Tiles

After scrubbing it until the dirt comes off the tile floor grouting, mop up the water and let the floor dry.

Steam the Floor Tiles

In the event that there is still some grout stain, use a floor steamer and slowly work it across the tile floor. Mop the floor again to clean off any dirt residue on the floor.

Bleach

If you opted for the bleach, pour it into a bucket and use a small hand brush to scrub the grout. Make sure you wear rubber gloves and eye protection to guard against any splashes. Once you have scrubbed the floor, mop up the remaining bleach and residue. You should have sparkling white grout afterwards.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Tile Caulk Cleaning and Whitening

Tile caulk is a rubbery material that is used to line the area between tiles and the edges of a bath or sink. Due to its frequent contact with water, the caulk can become moldy and discolored, giving your bathroom an unpleasant and dirty look.

Depending on the level of dirt and mildew on the tile caulk, you may be able to make it white again by following the process outlined below.

What You'll Need:

• Household bleach or bleach pen (grout and caulk repair pens)
• Old toothbrush
• Baking soda or white vinegar
• Bowl or bucket
• Rubber gloves
• Sponge

Step 1 - Assess the Situation

To determine whether the stains and discoloration on the caulk can be successfully removed by the following methods, you need to work out whether mildew is on the caulk or beneath it. If the mildew appears to be beneath the caulk then you will need to remove it and replace it. If the stains are on the caulk, then simple cleaning should get rid of them.

Step 2 - Try Baking Soda or Vinegar

Applying either a baking soda/water paste or vinegar/water solution is a gentle, natural way to start. Scrub your preferred mixture into the stains with a toothbrush. Let the caulk dry before moving on to the next step. Despite some popular but misguided advice, you shouldn't mix the baking soda and vinegar together. Their chemical structures will largely cancel out, and the resulting substance will be salty water.

Step 3 - Use Bleach

Applying a bleach solution to the caulk should help whiten the surface (though it won't necessarily kill mold or mildew, so if you suspect those are present, reach for a more standard bathroom cleaner). Put on your rubber gloves to protect your hands before mixing ¼ cup of bleach with 1 gallon of water. Remember to open the bathroom window or switch on an extractor fan to help aid ventilation. This is necessary to prevent the inhalation of toxic fumes. You should also use eyewear to protect you in the case of splashing bleach. Apply the bleach and water solution to the caulk generously, using a sponge. Leave the solution on the caulk for around 10 minutes for the maximum effect.

Step 4 - Scrub

Scrub stubborn stains off of the caulk with an old toothbrush. Try to do this gently or you might actually scrub the caulk off. Rinse the bleach and water solution off the caulk with warm water. If you're not happy with the results, try repeating the above process.

Step 5 - Use Bleach Pens

Bleach pens or grout and caulk repair pens are another option. They're easy to get hold of and provide a fuss-free solution. Simply press the pen along the caulk, leave it for 10 minutes to set in, and rinse with warm, clean water. Repeat as necessary and let the caulk dry naturally before allowing the area to get wet again.

Step 6 - Protect Against Further Staining

The correct application of caulk and using a mildew-resistant caulk during initial installation are the best methods in the prevention of mildew growth. However, adopting the following methods is also advisable to reduce the presence of this problem in your bathroom.

Clean the caulk regularly with a mold and mildew remover spray to stop the spread of mildew spores. Turn on the extractor fan or open a window whilst using the bathroom. Ventilation will reduce the humidity in your bathroom. Once you are finished showering or bathing, dry your tiles with a towel or cloth so that mold and mildew will have less moisture to thrive on.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Clean Different Kinds of Flooring

Don’t risk damaging your floors by improperly cleaning them. You’ll wear the floors out faster if you don’t care for them correctly. We recommend giving all the floors in your home a little extra love and attention (above and beyond sweeping and vacuuming) once every few months. Learn to care for the various types of flooring in your home with this quick and easy comprehensive guide.

Porcelain Tile Floors

Cleaning porcelain tiles floors is simple. First, vacuum or mop up any surface dirt or grime. Make sure to use a tile-friendly vacuum if you choose to suck instead of sweep. After any removable debris has been removed, switch to mopping. Porcelain can be porous, so use a homemade solution instead of a harsh cleaner. Mix one cup of distilled white vinegar into a bucket of warm water and mop as usual.

Laminate Floors

While wood and laminate are very different, the cleaning process is the same. Sweep and dust the floors and remove all surface-level dirt with a cloth broom. Then take half a cup of vinegar and add it to a gallon of water. Use this solution with rags or a mop to scrub the floors. Be careful not to go overboard with the amount of liquid on the floor. For wood and laminate flooring alike, you may need to go over the floor with this solution two or three times. For laminate flooring, check to see if the floor needs aesthetic touch-ups once it’s clean.

Brick Floors

There are four simple steps to cleaning brick flooring: sweep, scrub, rinse, and dust. First, sweep the floors, then take one tablespoon of washing powder or borax and add it to a gallon of water for your brick scrubbing formula. If you want a stronger cleaning solution, use one part vinegar to fifteen parts water.

After you’ve scrubbed, let the solution sit on the bricks for a few minutes, then rinse it off completely—especially if your brick flooring is sealed. Lastly, if you have a sealed brick floor you may need to flush stuck dust with water and let it dry completely. Repeat the flushing steps until any lime and dust are gone.

Limestone Floors

Start by sweeping your limestone floors and mopping them with a gentle mop solution. Once a month, apply a limestone cleaner.

Epoxy Floors

Epoxy flooring is usually found in garages or on patios. To start the cleaning process, sweep and rinse the area with warm water. Mix 1/3 cup of dish soap in a bucket of warm water and use the solution to wash the epoxy. Using a pH balanced soap will work best on these types of floors. Watch for stains as you mop and use a rag to scrub them up before you rinse the solution off the floor.

Engineered Flooring

Start by taking anything that can be removed from the area off of the engineered floor. Then sweep or vacuum the area. Take your favorite mild cleaning solution and add it to a bucket of lukewarm water and mop the floor. Make sure your mop is damp, not dripping. After you have mopped, dry the floor with towels.

Terrazzo Floors

Sweep the floor with a cloth push broom to avoid bristle scratches. Use a gentle mop solution and a yarn-style mop to remove any dirt or grime. Then, use a steam cleaner to suck the water from the floor. Repeat this process at least twice to get your terrazzo floors fully clean.

Concrete Floors

Start cleaning your concrete floors by sweeping or vacuuming up loose dirt and dust. Then, make a mop solution and begin mopping the floor. Use a hard bristle brush to remove stuck buildup or gunk, then gently rinse the floor off with clean water. If you have a stain on your concrete, use a soft bristle to scrub.

Vinyl Plank Flooring

Have you ever wondered how to clean vinyl flooring? It’s simple. Start by sweeping and mopping like normal—don't use a vacuum on this type of floor. Use a gentle mop solution and go over the floor twice. Once a year, reseal your vinyl flooring to keep the flooring looking good and functioning great.

Aggregate Flooring

Start by sweeping and mopping your aggregate flooring. When mopping aggregate, you will need to use a heavy-duty chemical cleaner. Some aggregate floors may even require the use of acid to get fully clean. Safety Note: Acid cleaners can be dangerous. Always wear protective gloves when cleaning with these solutions.

Tile Floors

Tile is an easy material to clean, which is why it is so popular in many homes. First sweep the floor, paying special attention to the groves in the grout. Make up a mop solution next using a specific tile cleaner, or a combination of water and vinegar. Use a mop or go full Little Orphan Annie on your hands and knees with a rag to get your tile nice and clean.

Sealed Cork Floors

Cleaning sealed cork floors is relatively simple. After you have swept the floor, take a non-acid floor cleaner (like one you would use on lino) and use a damp rag to wipe the floor with the cleaner. Use very little water on the rag, and then towel dry the floor before you let it air dry.

Unsealed Cork Floors

Cleaning an unsealed cork floor is a little tricky. It’s important to remember that untreated cork will warp and expand when wet, so use as little liquid as possible cleaning cork. Before you resort to washing your cork, try vacuuming it first. If vacuuming isn’t enough, use a barely damp sponge to spot treat the floor. When you dip your sponge into dish soap and warm water solution, make sure to wring it out all the way before it goes near your floor.

Ceramic Tile Floors

While you can clean your ceramic tile floors like any other tiles floors, for the best results you need to steam. You may not have a steam cleaner around your house, but renting one is often inexpensive and easy. If you don’t have means to steam, sweep and mop the floor like normal, making sure to use a gentle, tile-specific cleaner.

Flagstone Floors

Clean your flagstone floor like you would a basic tile or wood floor. Sweep and mop with a gentle cleanser, making sure not to get the floor too wet. For best results with flagstone floors though, consider sealing the floor. This will keep the floor nicer longer, and make it easier to clean.

Granite Floors

B is for blot, which is how you should always clean your granite floors. If the granite in your home is new or newly sealed, only use a dry mop on this porous flooring. If you choose to deep clean your granite, be careful. Cleaners can leave the floor streaked and can even change the color. Use a pH balanced cleaner and risk the urge to go overboard. For best results with granite, spot clean daily. Regularly buffing granite floors is also a great way to keep them looking their best.

Wood Floors

Clean wood floors much like laminates. After you have swept, prepare a gentle mop solution. The key to getting clean wood floors without damaging them is to use minimal water and to not let the water sit on the wood for long. There are several all-natural solutions when it comes to keeping your wood floor shiny after a clean. Pick a favorite and make sure to treat your wood regularly.

Marmoleum Floors

A great green flooring option, you need to make sure you use special cleaner on your Marmoleum floors. After you sweep, use a Marmoleum-specific cleaner from the hardware store on the floor. Make sure to wash the solution off completely and towel-dry the floor. Use an old toothbrush or a nylon brush to scrub in the deep grooves of this floor. Marmoleum needs to be deep cleaned twice a month.

Linoleum Floors

Sweep your linoleum floors and then gently mop them with mild dish soap and warm water solution. If your linoleum is stained, make a baking soda paste and use vinegar to help lift the stain. You can also use a scouring pad on linoleum floors to get a deep clean.

Carpet

Most homes have carpet flooring in at least one room. All carpet is different, so it’s always a good idea to know how to best treat your specific types. Regardless though, all carpet should be vacuumed several times a week—especially in high traffic areas. There are several ways to DIY carpet clean if you don’t want to pay a professional company. If you stain your carpet in between deep cleanings, spot treat immediately. As a general rule, we recommend that you keep a bar of Fels Naptha laundry stain treat on hand to use (sparingly) in carpet emergencies.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Natural vs Carbonized Bamboo Flooring

 If you’re looking for a wider variety of color shades in bamboo flooring, carbonized bamboo flooring is sure to meet your needs.

Bamboo is carbonized by undergoing a boiling process during manufacture subjecting it to high heat thus "caramelizing" the wood fibers giving it a rich brown color almost coffee-like, but available in varying shades. Natural bamboo flooring is however light-colored, typically falling between yellow and blond shades. Below is a comparison of natural and carbonized bamboo floors.

Pros of Natural Bamboo Flooring

It costs much less than the carbonized variety. This makes it easier for homeowners to achieve bamboo floors without price imposing a restriction. The natural straw color appeals to homeowners who desire the un-tampered natural bamboo color. The floor also enhances the natural lighting effect indoors which adds to the ambiance. Natural bamboo floors are also extremely durable.

Unlike the carbonized variety that is softened significantly during manufacture, natural floors are a lot harder. They can withstand heavy usage and will not easily develop dents, scratches, or other marks. You can install them in whatever area of the house you choose without worrying about the effects of high traffic. Natural bamboo flooring also holds up better to water and moisture than the carbonized variety. You can confidently use it in the kitchen or bathroom.

Cons

Dust and dirt show easily on natural bamboo floors due to the light-colored surface. This necessitates more frequent cleaning. The light color, although ideal for those who prefer the natural color shade may limit color scheme choices where décor is concerned. Generally, the darker shades of the carbonized variety give more flexibility when trying to attain the desired décor.

Pros of Carbonized Bamboo Flooring

The rich dark color of carbonized bamboo adds a luxurious and elegant touch to rooms. This helps achieve a uniquely fashionable décor for your home. You’ll find you have greater flexibility with carbonized flooring when décor changes become necessary. Due to the dark-colored floor, dirt and dust will not easily show. It makes it easier to maintain a clean and neat look for longer without frequent cleaning.

Cons

The carbonization process adds to the overall cost of the floor. This may push it out of range where the budget is tight. Carbonized bamboo floors aren’t as durable as the natural bamboo variety. The boiling process during manufacture weakens the bamboo considerably, by about 30 percent. Certain activities or heavy impacts will easily cause dents or scratches on the floor.

You need to be extremely careful when moving heavy furniture around the room. This type of floor will not hold up well in high traffic areas. It is best to use it where floor usage is not as frequent. More restrictions are associated with carbonized bamboo because it is susceptible to water. Frequent moisture or water also causes wear and tear on carbonized floors. It is best not to use carbonized bamboo floors in the kitchen or bathroom.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Wet vs Dry Concrete Grinding: Everything You Need to Know

Concrete grinding and polishing is a cost-effective and efficient way to strengthen and beautify your floor. A professional job enhances any concrete’s natural beauty, boosting aesthetics and value.

It’s also environmentally friendly, low maintenance, and sustainable. There are two main methods: “dry” and “wet.” Each has unique benefits.

Choosing the correct method is crucial for the best results. Read on to compare wet vs dry concrete grinding and find the best option for your project.

What Is Concrete Grinding and Polishing?

Concrete grinding smooths rough surfaces using heavy machinery and diamond tooling. It involves multiple stages, with polishing as the final step.

Fine discs in this stage provide excellent shine and smoothness. Grinding and polishing create an exceptional concrete surface resembling polished stone.

Benefits of Concrete Grinding and Polishing

• Durability: Polished concrete floors are strong and outlast regular floors. They handle high traffic well and resist chipping, stains, and discolouration.
• Easy to Maintain: Sweep and mop ground and polished concrete floors to keep them clean.
• Affordable: Refreshing polished concrete floors in high-traffic areas every 7 to 10 years makes them cost-effective long-term.
• Eco-friendly: Concrete grinding produces minimal waste and improves air quality by reducing mould and dust.
• Enhances Safety: Polished concrete floors are glossy and attractive, reflecting light to create a safer environment and lower lighting costs.

Difference Between Wet and Dry Grinding and Polishing

The Dry Grinding and Polish Method

Dry method of polishing involves using commercial machines to grind concrete surfaces. These machines are tailored to achieve specific levels of shine.

A coarser diamond grit is used, followed by a finer one for the final polish. Modern grinders can connect to dust extraction systems to collect dust.

The Wet Polishing Method

In the wet polishing method, water cools the diamond abrasives and captures dust in a slurry to keep it out of the air. The polishing discs have the same grit size, producing a low lustre shine.

To get a high shine, you should grind wet and polish dry. This approach helps expose the aggregate and removes a significant layer of concrete.

Pros of Wet Grinding and Polishing Concrete Floor

• Increases diamond lifespan: Wet grinding and polishing extend the life of diamond tools and allow for more aggressive grinding. They keep the tools cooler, preventing metal bonds from glazing. This results in faster cutting on medium to tough floors.
• Removes ugly scratches: Using water removes scratches from metal bond diamonds early on. This ensures a duller, easier-to-maintain shine on your floors.
• No dust: Wet grinding eliminates airborne dust, reducing the need for dust collectors, respirators, and vacuums, which lowers operation costs. Water protects users from toxic silicon particles, safeguarding their health.
• More familiarity: Wet concrete grinding and polishing came first before the dry grinding method. So, experienced contractors often prefer it, especially where water is plentiful.
• More options: The wet process of polishing produces a consistent finish in a range of flooring materials from porcelain, marble, terrazzo, quartz, limestone, travertine to the hardest granite.
• Less costly: Wet pads are usually cheaper than dry pads. They stay cool with water, preventing overheating and extending their life. This means your machine will last longer with this method.

Cons of Wet Grinding and Polishing Concrete Floor

• Leads to waste: Large jobs can waste a lot of water, especially when dry process is an option. With water costs rising, it might not be the best choice for big commercial projects.
• Lower shine: Achieving the same level of shine with wet polishing is challenging compared to the dry polishing process.  Wet polishing may not be ideal for decorative flooring or a premium shine.
• Creates a mess: The wet grinding method reduces dust exposure but creates a slurry mess that takes time to clean. Disposing the slurry can be difficult, making it inconvenient for some contractors.
• Safety concerns: The wet method of grinding or polishing poses risks, such as slipping on wet floors and electrical hazards. Proper training and safety measures are essential to avoid workplace accidents.

Pros of Dry Polishing and Grinding

• Deliver more shine: Dry polishing makes your floor shinier than wet polishing. It ensures better light reflection and a more sophisticated look.
• Ideal for a soft concrete floor: The dry polishing method is better for soft concrete. Wet polishing causes aggressive grinding, leaving gouge marks. It also hardens and condenses the slab more.
• Immediate results: With dry grinding, results are immediate. There’s no slurry mess, so workers can quickly assess and improve their work.
• Easy maintenance: With dry grinding, the machine is typically much easier to maintain, as the bearings are not exposed to wet conditions that lead to rusting and faster wear.

Cons of Dry Polishing and Grinding

• Health hazards: Dry grinding creates harmful dust. Controlling it is crucial to prevent respiratory risks.
• Added costs: This method requires purpose-built dust collectors to maintain healthy airflow, which increases equipment costs. It also consumes more energy per unit of mass.
• Risks of glazing: Using an inappropriate tool can cause overheating and glazing. It’s also not ideal for very hard concrete.

What Is the Greener Method?

The debate between wet and dry grinding continues. Dry grinding handles disposal better since it avoids slurry mess. However, slurry disposal regulations differ by state, so check your local rules.

Wet grinding tackles toxic silicon, a major environmental concern. It also eliminates dust clouds from dry polishing. Silicon dust is a big issue in the flooring industry.

Even with proper extraction, workers face significant dust exposure during dry polishing.

Most Ideal Environments for Wet or Dry Concrete Grinding and Polishing Process

Choosing the best grinding and polishing method for concrete floors depends on the environment and project needs.

Each method has pros and cons for residential, commercial, and industrial settings. Knowing these differences helps contractors and facility managers make smart performance, cost, and safety decisions.

• Hospitals
• Manufacturing Plants
• Showrooms
• Schools / Universities
• Warehouses

Source: www.DCFlooring.co.uk

How to Make a Baking Soda Carpet Cleaner

 If you are not keen on using chemicals when it comes to cleaning your carpets, you will find that an effective one can be made from baking soda. By combining it with other substances, you will be able to create a cleaner that will leave no residue or harsh aromas.

What You'll Need:

• Empty spray bottle
• Funnel
• White vinegar
• Baking soda
• Water

Step 1 - Materials

Start by determining the quantity of carpet cleaner you will need, which will help you to get the correct amount of raw materials. For this step, you will need to think about how often you intend to use the carpet cleaner and the surface area that the carpet covers. Once you know how much you need, you will be in a position to gather all the materials that you need. An empty spray bottle can be bought from a hardware store and should be of a large enough size to hold the entire quantity of carpet cleaner. You should ensure that it can be closed with a watertight seal. Baking soda is cheap and easy to obtain, while white vinegar should be chosen over any other types as it is less likely to leave a strong odor.

Step 2 - Experiment

Depending on how you intend to use the carpet cleaner, you may find it prudent to do some experimentation on the concentration levels. For carpet cleaner that will be used on stains and heavy soiling, a mixture of straight white vinegar and baking soda will be most beneficial. However, for general cleaning, the solution can be diluted with water and still be effective. A quarter cup of baking soda should be combined with a pint of white vinegar as a base. From this point, the levels of ingredients and concentrations can be adjusted to create small test examples.

Step 3 - Test

Before committing to a combination of white vinegar, baking soda and water, you should test different examples to ensure that it works with carpet and that it does the job it is intended for. Make up different amounts by reducing the amount of ingredients to scale. Apply a little of the solution to an inconspicuous section of the carpet where cleaning is required and determine how well and how quickly it works.

Step 4 - Combine

Once you're satisfied with the levels and concentration of the ingredients, you will be in a position to combine them to make a full amount. If necessary, use a funnel to deposit the soda into the bottle. The entire quantity can be put in. If the carpet cleaner is to be diluted, the vinegar and water should be mixed together before being added to the bottle. This will create a reaction, so it should be done little by little, allowing the solution to settle between each additional amount of liquid. The spray top of the bottle can then be tightly screwed back into place before the bottle is gently dipped back and forth to thoroughly combine the components.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Best Sealers to Use When Sanding Hardwood Floors

 When it comes to sanding hardwood floors, there are a number of different sealers that you could apply when you are finished. The quality of the sealer has a lot to do with the overall performance of the wood floor after you are done refinishing it. Here are some of the best sealers that you can use when sanding a hardwood floor.

Oil-Modified Urethane

Oil-modified urethane is a type of hardwood sealer that is commonly used in the industry today. In fact, more people use this type of sealer than all of the other types of finishes that are available. With this type of urethane sealer, you can expect it to dry in about eight hours after applying it to the wood floor. You can also get this type of sealer in different levels of gloss. This type of finish is also very easy to apply to the floor.

Moisture-Cured Urethane

Moisture-cured urethane is one of the most durable types of hardwood finishes that is available. This type of finish is a little bit more difficult to apply for the average person. Professionals often apply this type of finish. One of the big benefits of this type of urethane is that it does not turn yellow or amber over time. This type of floor can also take a long time to cure depending on the amount of moisture in the air.

Water-Based Urethane

Water-based urethane is a type of finish that is considered to be a little bit nicer to work with. It will dry in as little as two hours. Water-based urethane is resistant to moisture and it is also very durable. This type of finish usually costs a little bit more than some of the other finishes that are available on the market.

Penetrating Oil Sealers

Penetrating oil sealers are another type of sealer that you could use for finishing hardwood floors after sanding them. This type of finish often comes with a color in it and is used by individuals that want to seal and stain the floor at the same time. Using this type of sealer can significantly speed up the process of staining and refinishing as everything is done in one step.

When you utilize this type of sealer, you need to put it on the floor and then allow it to absorb and penetrate down into the wood. This will fill up the pores in the wood and make it a more dense structure. Many people like this type of finish because it helps the wood become a bit harder on the surface which limits the number of scratches.

Wax

Wax is another type of finish that you could use on a hardwood floor. This type of finish has been used longer than any of the other finishes that are available. You can easily apply this to the hardwood floor and it is also one of the least expensive finishes on the market.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Patch and Repair Damaged Carpeting

 If your carpeting has suffered permanent damage due to a burn or stain, you don't have to hire a professional to repair the damage. People often hire professionals to mend damaged carpeting, and after observing the repair, they realize they could have easily completed the job in a matter of minutes.

Repairing a Burn

If you've discovered a burn, try to locate a piece of carpeting with similar wear as the area surrounding the damage. A piece of extra carpeting that was used for a runner is usually a good match for a moderately worn location.

If you don't have a piece of leftover carpeting and can't locate a match through a dealer, consider removing a section of carpeting from an inconspicuous area such as a closet. As a last resort, carpeting can be removed from under a piece of furniture that you don't plan on moving.

Begin by cutting away the damaged area with a sharp carpet knife. Cut all the way down to the surface of the padding, and remove a rectangular or square shaped piece surrounding the burned area. If the padding isn't damaged or burned, try to keep it intact.

Remove the piece you cut away, and use it as a stencil to create the patch. Pay careful attention to the direction of the pile, and trace the damaged piece on the back of the new carpeting with a marker. After cutting it out, you should have an exact replica of the damaged piece you removed.

Once you obtain a perfect fit, apply an even layer of carpet glue on the back and edges of the new piece. Carefully press it into place like a puzzle piece, and gently brush the fibers with your hand to blend and camouflage the repair. Let the glue dry for several hours before vacuuming or walking on the repaired area for best results.

Removing a Small Stain

If a small stain can't be removed with carpet cleaner, you can still get rid of it. If you have an extra piece of carpeting, or if you can obtain one from a dealer or from an inconspicuous area, it's possible to repair the damage. For best results, this meticulous method of repair should only be used for smaller stains. A larger stained area should be patched or replaced.

With a sharp pair of scissors, trim away the stained fibers, all the way down to the base of the carpeting. Once the stained fibers have been removed, trim off new fibers of the same length and shade from an extra piece of carpeting. The new fibers will be used to fill in the bare area.

Using a small paintbrush, carefully and thoroughly apply carpet glue to the bare spot. Using a pair of tweezers and a toothpick, position the ends of the new fibers into the base of the carpet until the area is entirely filled in. Allow the glue to dry completely before walking over the repair, and before vacuuming.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Refinish a Wood Floor with Varnish

 To varnish wood floor is an easy task that you can do all by yourself without hiring a professional. Varnished wood flooring is elegant and is better protected from damages compared to an unvarnished wood floor. Below are the materials that you need along with the instructions on how to varnish a wood floor.

What You'll Need:

• Working Gloves
•  Safety Glasses
•  Mask
•  Plastic sheeting
•  Hammer
•  Pliers
•  Nail pry
•  Electric floor sander
•  nail set
•  Belt or orbital sander
•  Orbital palm sander
•  Fine Grit Sandpaper
•  Putty knife
•  Putty
•  Vacuum Cleaner
•  Tack cloth
•  Polyurethane varnish
•  Paint brush

Step 1 - Wood Floor Preparation

Prepare the wood floor that you will work on by removing the old varnish using an orbital or belt sander. If you do not have an electric floor sander you can search your local yellow pages for nearby equipment rental shops. The internet is also a good source of information when looking for an electrical floor sander for hire.

Step 2 - Remove all the Furniture

Remove all the furniture found in your working areas such as chairs, tables, cabinets, sofas, and desks. This is to make sure that your working area is free from obstructions so that you can uniformly apply the varnish to the wood flooring. If you have floor molding you can also remove it so that it will not scuff with the electric floor sander.

Step 3-Check the Flooring

Check your wooden flooring for any protruding objects such as carpet tacks and nails. Remove the protruding objects using a pair of pliers. There are cases where removing a protruding nail on your wood flooring will do more harm than good. Instead, use a nail set to hammer down the nails. Check your wood flooring for any gaps as well and use putty to fill the gaps. Make sure to allow the putty to dry before proceeding to the next step.

Step 4-Seal your Working Area

Seal the room using plastic sheeting secured by tape. Cover all the openings such as doors and windows. This is to prevent dusts from entering your working area and damage your varnishing.

Step 5 - Wear your Protective Gear

Wear your mask, safety glass and working gloves before moving on to the next step.

Step 6 - Use the Electric Floor Sander

Remove the old varnish using the electric floor sander. Floor sanders can be quite heavy so be careful in handling your floor sander. Start in one corner of your wooden flooring and work your way gradually into the other side until you have covered all the areas. For sanding tight places, use smaller sanders.

Step 7 - Remove the Dusts

Using a vacuum cleaner, remove all the dust from using the electric floor sander. Vacuum the ceiling and walls as well to make sure that your working area is free from dust before applying the varnish to your wood floor.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Remove Mold from Berber Carpet

 A Berber carpet is one of the most comfortable and nicest looking carpets available. If there is ever any mold anywhere on your carpet then this can be very distressing.

It is possible to remove mold from your carpet if you have the right tools and materials available. Removing mold yourself will save you a hefty professional cleaning bill.

What You'll Need:

• Bristle brush
• Vacuum
• Hydrogen peroxide
• Baking soda
• Spray bottle
• Cloth

Brush Away Mold

Start by brushing away the surface mold by using the stiff wire brush. You may also like to vacuum the area after brushing the affected area to remove everything.

After vacuuming the area take the bag out and throw it away. Mold spores can be very dangerous and it's important to avoid inhaling them. You can never be too careful when it comes to mold because it can cause respiratory diseases and many other medical conditions.

Mixing the Solution

Mix up a solution of 1 part hydrogen peroxide to 3 parts water. Pour this solution into a spray bottle which is then ready for application. You can mix up a whole bottle of the solution and then store it for use when you need it. This mixture won't go bad so it's worth mixing up as much as you can.

Spraying the Area

Spray the affected area. Leave this until it dries completely and then thoroughly soak the area again. When spraying the solution on the carpet, you need to fully saturate it. Leave the solution on the carpet for about 15 minutes. Once you have let this rest you can then start scrubbing at it with the clean cotton cloth. You can also use a washing-up sponge to clean the affected area if the stain is more severe.

Baking Soda

Once you have cleaned the area using hydrogen peroxide you should then sprinkle baking soda on the stain. The baking soda will help to neutralize any smells and also get rid of the stain. This baking soda needs to be left on the carpet overnight. Before putting the baking soda on the stain make sure that the carpet is dry. If the carpet is still wet then the baking soda will turn into a paste which could damage your Berber carpet.

Vacuum

Vacuum the affected area to get rid of all of the baking soda. This will also help to fluff the carpet up again so that it's not all flat. Don't worry if the carpet doesn't spring back to life instantly, it may take some time for it to dry out completely.

Check the Results and Repeat

Once you have vacuumed up the baking powder you should be able to see how well the technique worked. If the stain wasn't removed properly then you may need to repeat the steps above several times.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Remove Self Levelling Cement from Quarry Tiles

This Quarry tiled floor was discovered in an old cottage in the Surrey village of Cranleigh. The new owners had found the quarry tiled floor under an old carpet and wanted to have it restored as an original feature. Unfortunately, it also had a covering of concrete screed over a large percentage of it. This is a fairly common practice when laying vinyl or carpet over tiles as it ensures a completely flat surface. From experience, I knew returning the tiles to a decent state would be possible but it’s difficult and unpleasant work. None the less I was happy to do the restoration and having visited the property to survey the floor I came up with a restoration plan that I was happy with. This evolved into a quote which the owners were happy to accept, and a date set for the work to commence.

 

Cleaning a Quarry Tiled Living Room

To remove the screed, I started with a power chisel fitted with a serrated attachment and started to carefully chip away at the screed. This is noisy and messy work, so I shut myself off from the world wearing eye protection goggles and ear defenders. Slowly the cement screed came away and was bagged up for removal.

Once I’d cleared the area of screed, a heavyweight buffing machine was introduced to the floor. Heavy iron bars were attached to the front to increase traction with the tiles and make cleaning and burnishing more effective. With the machine ready the quarry tiles were covered in a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean, and this was left to soak in for ten minutes.

A coarse 200-grit diamond pad was fitted to the machine and then run over the floor to work in the cleaning solution. This abrasive pad cuts into the surface of the tile to remove the years of dirt and grime. This is an aggressive, wet process but the cleaning solution captures the dirt and dust minimising the mess. Once done the floor was rinsed with water and the soiling extracted with a wet vacuum.

Attention was then directed at the grout which had to be hand scrubbed for the best results using more Pro-Clean. The whole floor was then inspected and any stubborn areas of staining were spot treated using the same process. Once I was happy with the condition of the tiles the floor was left to dry out overnight ready for sealing the next day.

 

Sealing a Quarry Tiled Living Room

Quarry tiles don’t particularly like aggressive cleaning processes and it can cause their colour to fade, however there is little alternative when they are this bad. With this in mind, I had decided to seal them with a colour enhancing sealer called Tile Doctor Colour Grow. This product is an impregnator which works by soaking into the pores of the tile, protecting it from within and ensuring any dirt remains on the surface, it also leaves the matt finish the client had requested.

Other sealers are available that offer a sheen or shiny finish however this client had a couple of dogs whose claws can damage a topical sealer, so an impregnator was the best option.

I returned a month later with some reclaimed tiles to fit around the front of the fireplace For aftercare cleaning I recommended the use of Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner which is ideal for the regular cleaning of sealed tiles and won't impact the integrity of the sealer.

Source: Quarry Tiled Floor Tile Renovation Service in Cranleigh Surrey

Terrazzo Stain Removal FAQs

 Caution: Follow directions carefully when you use chemicals to remove stains. Always "remove the stain remover" as soon as its job has been done. Remember many of these substances are on the "Not recommended list" for general floor care, but must be used if the stain is to be removed. Try the following methods for these common stains. Try the first method listed first, and go to the second only if this doesn't work. For unknown stains or heavy staining, consult a professional.

What You'll Need:

• Liquid detergent
• Powdered detergent
• Lemon juice
• Denatured alcohol
• Alcohol
• Hydrogen peroxide
• Ammonia
• Powdered malt
• Abrasive powder
• Glycerin
• Calcium carbonate
• Sodium perborate
• Powdered pumice
• Sodium perborate
• Whiting
• Paint solvent
• Sodium citrate crystals
• Absorbent cloth

Alcoholic Beverages

Use liquid detergent and warm water.

Follow with denatured alcohol if stain remains.

Lay an absorbent cloth soaked in hydrogen peroxide directly over the stain; put an ammonia-saturated cloth on top of this.

Blood

Try cold clear water first, then add a few drops of ammonia.

Wet spot with lukewarm water and sprinkle with powdered malt. Let stand an hour and rinse.

Coffee

Saturate an absorbent cloth with a solution of one part glycerin and three parts water and lay it over the spot.

Apply a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and calcium carbonate.

Apply a mixture of abrasive powder and hot water.

Fruit

Use a powdered detergent and warm water.

If rough spot results, rub with powdered pumice stone under a block of wood.

Grease or Oil

Use a liquid detergent and warm water

Pour solvent on spot. Rub with a clean, soft cloth.

Ink

Use a liquid detergent and warm water.

Apply a mixture of two tablespoon sodium perborate in a pint of water mixed with whiting into a paste. Repeat if necessary.

Some blue inks respond to the treatment of strong ammonia water solution applied on a layer of cotton.

Lipstick

Use a liquid detergent and warm water.

Lay an absorbent cloth soaked in hydrogen peroxide directly over the stain; put an ammonia-saturated cloth on top of this.

Paint

Use a liquid detergent and warm water.

Pour solvent on spot. Rub with a clean, soft cloth.

Rust/Iron

Apply a treatment made by mixing one part sodium citrate crystals to six parts water, mixed thoroughly with an equal amount of glycerin. Mix with whiting to form a paste stiff enough to stick to the surface in a thick coat. Allow standing several days. Repeat process if stain remains.

Soft Drinks

Lay an absorbent cloth soaked in hydrogen peroxide directly over the stain; put an ammonia-saturated cloth on top of this.

Tobacco

Try lemon juice in water.

Lay an absorbent cloth soaked in hydrogen peroxide directly over the stain; put an ammonia-saturated cloth on top of this.

Use a mixture of abrasive powder and hot water.

Treat with equal parts of alcohol and glycerin.

Urine

Apply a mixture of abrasive powder and hot water.

Lay an absorbent cloth soaked in hydrogen peroxide directly over the stain; put an ammonia-saturated cloth on top of this.

The chemicals listed may be purchased at drug stores or at chemical or laundry supply houses. Where poultices are recommended, apply them about one-half inch thick, and let the mixture dry thoroughly before removing.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

What Is Self-leveling Compound?

 A self-leveling compound is a chemical mixture used to smooth uneven concrete or wooden floors. It is ideal for filling dips in wooden floors or for smoothing concrete ones. It is very important to have an even-surfaced floor when planning to place ceramic tiles or any other floorings because uneven surfaces cause tiles to crack.

What You'll Need:

• Safety glasses
•  Face mask
•  Self-leveling compound
•  Trowel
•  Containers
•  Primer
•  Paintbrush

Preparing the Floor

The floor should be stable before applying a self-leveling compound. With concrete floors, this is hardly an issue, but with wooden subfloors, the task may be almost impossible to handle. If a wooden subfloor moves when you step on it, a self-level compound might not be the best decision: it will break. Furthermore, the floor needs to be cleaned from dust and dirt before applying a self-leveling compound.

Applying Primer to the Floor

Before placing the self-leveling compound, it is essential to apply a brush or two of primer. This way, you will ensure a solid bond for the self-leveling compound. You have to wait until the primer dries because if wet, it may react with the self-leveling compound and make it less stable. As part of the process, air the room after applying the primer and you will speed up drying and eliminate unpleasant smells.

Identifying Uneven Surfaces

You can slide a framing square over the floor and find if it has any cavities. Mark these spots: they will be the ones you apply self-leveling compound to.

Prepare to Work with a Self-leveling Compound

It is important to work fast because the self-leveling compound dries very fast. The whole process of pouring, mixing, and spreading the compound should take no more than 20 minutes. The manufacturer’s guide should be followed. It is recommended to work with gloves and a face mask to avoid breathing the dust from the self-leveling compound: it may lead to cough or even allergies. For best results, you should mix the compound with a drill and add as much water as specified in the instructions. It is better to use cold water, thus lengthening the period before the compound dries up.

Applying a Self-leveling Compound

Immediately after mixing the compound, you need to spread it to the previously identified uneven areas. Wait a little while until it begins to thicken and then use a drywall tool to make it even. Then you can spread it out to the whole room and ensure that the floor is even. It is important to know what you are doing and to do it quick. When the compound begins to thicken, you shouldn’t try to slow down the process by heating it up or by adding additional water. It will spoil the self-leveling compound and make it break afterward. In four hours, the compound will be hard enough to step on it.

Cleaning Up Afterward

Have a container on hand to store any leftover self-leveling compound, especially if you're filling up cavities. Wash the tools and containers you use with water right after using them to remove as much compound as possible. You may not be able to remove all the compound, in which case those tools will become the ones you use every time you work with self-leveling compound.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com