Wet vs Dry Concrete Grinding: Everything You Need to Know

Concrete grinding and polishing is a cost-effective and efficient way to strengthen and beautify your floor. A professional job enhances any concrete’s natural beauty, boosting aesthetics and value.

It’s also environmentally friendly, low maintenance, and sustainable. There are two main methods: “dry” and “wet.” Each has unique benefits.

Choosing the correct method is crucial for the best results. Read on to compare wet vs dry concrete grinding and find the best option for your project.

What Is Concrete Grinding and Polishing?

Concrete grinding smooths rough surfaces using heavy machinery and diamond tooling. It involves multiple stages, with polishing as the final step.

Fine discs in this stage provide excellent shine and smoothness. Grinding and polishing create an exceptional concrete surface resembling polished stone.

Benefits of Concrete Grinding and Polishing

• Durability: Polished concrete floors are strong and outlast regular floors. They handle high traffic well and resist chipping, stains, and discolouration.
• Easy to Maintain: Sweep and mop ground and polished concrete floors to keep them clean.
• Affordable: Refreshing polished concrete floors in high-traffic areas every 7 to 10 years makes them cost-effective long-term.
• Eco-friendly: Concrete grinding produces minimal waste and improves air quality by reducing mould and dust.
• Enhances Safety: Polished concrete floors are glossy and attractive, reflecting light to create a safer environment and lower lighting costs.

Difference Between Wet and Dry Grinding and Polishing

The Dry Grinding and Polish Method

Dry method of polishing involves using commercial machines to grind concrete surfaces. These machines are tailored to achieve specific levels of shine.

A coarser diamond grit is used, followed by a finer one for the final polish. Modern grinders can connect to dust extraction systems to collect dust.

The Wet Polishing Method

In the wet polishing method, water cools the diamond abrasives and captures dust in a slurry to keep it out of the air. The polishing discs have the same grit size, producing a low lustre shine.

To get a high shine, you should grind wet and polish dry. This approach helps expose the aggregate and removes a significant layer of concrete.

Pros of Wet Grinding and Polishing Concrete Floor

• Increases diamond lifespan: Wet grinding and polishing extend the life of diamond tools and allow for more aggressive grinding. They keep the tools cooler, preventing metal bonds from glazing. This results in faster cutting on medium to tough floors.
• Removes ugly scratches: Using water removes scratches from metal bond diamonds early on. This ensures a duller, easier-to-maintain shine on your floors.
• No dust: Wet grinding eliminates airborne dust, reducing the need for dust collectors, respirators, and vacuums, which lowers operation costs. Water protects users from toxic silicon particles, safeguarding their health.
• More familiarity: Wet concrete grinding and polishing came first before the dry grinding method. So, experienced contractors often prefer it, especially where water is plentiful.
• More options: The wet process of polishing produces a consistent finish in a range of flooring materials from porcelain, marble, terrazzo, quartz, limestone, travertine to the hardest granite.
• Less costly: Wet pads are usually cheaper than dry pads. They stay cool with water, preventing overheating and extending their life. This means your machine will last longer with this method.

Cons of Wet Grinding and Polishing Concrete Floor

• Leads to waste: Large jobs can waste a lot of water, especially when dry process is an option. With water costs rising, it might not be the best choice for big commercial projects.
• Lower shine: Achieving the same level of shine with wet polishing is challenging compared to the dry polishing process.  Wet polishing may not be ideal for decorative flooring or a premium shine.
• Creates a mess: The wet grinding method reduces dust exposure but creates a slurry mess that takes time to clean. Disposing the slurry can be difficult, making it inconvenient for some contractors.
• Safety concerns: The wet method of grinding or polishing poses risks, such as slipping on wet floors and electrical hazards. Proper training and safety measures are essential to avoid workplace accidents.

Pros of Dry Polishing and Grinding

• Deliver more shine: Dry polishing makes your floor shinier than wet polishing. It ensures better light reflection and a more sophisticated look.
• Ideal for a soft concrete floor: The dry polishing method is better for soft concrete. Wet polishing causes aggressive grinding, leaving gouge marks. It also hardens and condenses the slab more.
• Immediate results: With dry grinding, results are immediate. There’s no slurry mess, so workers can quickly assess and improve their work.
• Easy maintenance: With dry grinding, the machine is typically much easier to maintain, as the bearings are not exposed to wet conditions that lead to rusting and faster wear.

Cons of Dry Polishing and Grinding

• Health hazards: Dry grinding creates harmful dust. Controlling it is crucial to prevent respiratory risks.
• Added costs: This method requires purpose-built dust collectors to maintain healthy airflow, which increases equipment costs. It also consumes more energy per unit of mass.
• Risks of glazing: Using an inappropriate tool can cause overheating and glazing. It’s also not ideal for very hard concrete.

What Is the Greener Method?

The debate between wet and dry grinding continues. Dry grinding handles disposal better since it avoids slurry mess. However, slurry disposal regulations differ by state, so check your local rules.

Wet grinding tackles toxic silicon, a major environmental concern. It also eliminates dust clouds from dry polishing. Silicon dust is a big issue in the flooring industry.

Even with proper extraction, workers face significant dust exposure during dry polishing.

Most Ideal Environments for Wet or Dry Concrete Grinding and Polishing Process

Choosing the best grinding and polishing method for concrete floors depends on the environment and project needs.

Each method has pros and cons for residential, commercial, and industrial settings. Knowing these differences helps contractors and facility managers make smart performance, cost, and safety decisions.

• Hospitals
• Manufacturing Plants
• Showrooms
• Schools / Universities
• Warehouses

Source: www.DCFlooring.co.uk

How to Make a Baking Soda Carpet Cleaner

 If you are not keen on using chemicals when it comes to cleaning your carpets, you will find that an effective one can be made from baking soda. By combining it with other substances, you will be able to create a cleaner that will leave no residue or harsh aromas.

What You'll Need:

• Empty spray bottle
• Funnel
• White vinegar
• Baking soda
• Water

Step 1 - Materials

Start by determining the quantity of carpet cleaner you will need, which will help you to get the correct amount of raw materials. For this step, you will need to think about how often you intend to use the carpet cleaner and the surface area that the carpet covers. Once you know how much you need, you will be in a position to gather all the materials that you need. An empty spray bottle can be bought from a hardware store and should be of a large enough size to hold the entire quantity of carpet cleaner. You should ensure that it can be closed with a watertight seal. Baking soda is cheap and easy to obtain, while white vinegar should be chosen over any other types as it is less likely to leave a strong odor.

Step 2 - Experiment

Depending on how you intend to use the carpet cleaner, you may find it prudent to do some experimentation on the concentration levels. For carpet cleaner that will be used on stains and heavy soiling, a mixture of straight white vinegar and baking soda will be most beneficial. However, for general cleaning, the solution can be diluted with water and still be effective. A quarter cup of baking soda should be combined with a pint of white vinegar as a base. From this point, the levels of ingredients and concentrations can be adjusted to create small test examples.

Step 3 - Test

Before committing to a combination of white vinegar, baking soda and water, you should test different examples to ensure that it works with carpet and that it does the job it is intended for. Make up different amounts by reducing the amount of ingredients to scale. Apply a little of the solution to an inconspicuous section of the carpet where cleaning is required and determine how well and how quickly it works.

Step 4 - Combine

Once you're satisfied with the levels and concentration of the ingredients, you will be in a position to combine them to make a full amount. If necessary, use a funnel to deposit the soda into the bottle. The entire quantity can be put in. If the carpet cleaner is to be diluted, the vinegar and water should be mixed together before being added to the bottle. This will create a reaction, so it should be done little by little, allowing the solution to settle between each additional amount of liquid. The spray top of the bottle can then be tightly screwed back into place before the bottle is gently dipped back and forth to thoroughly combine the components.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Best Sealers to Use When Sanding Hardwood Floors

 When it comes to sanding hardwood floors, there are a number of different sealers that you could apply when you are finished. The quality of the sealer has a lot to do with the overall performance of the wood floor after you are done refinishing it. Here are some of the best sealers that you can use when sanding a hardwood floor.

Oil-Modified Urethane

Oil-modified urethane is a type of hardwood sealer that is commonly used in the industry today. In fact, more people use this type of sealer than all of the other types of finishes that are available. With this type of urethane sealer, you can expect it to dry in about eight hours after applying it to the wood floor. You can also get this type of sealer in different levels of gloss. This type of finish is also very easy to apply to the floor.

Moisture-Cured Urethane

Moisture-cured urethane is one of the most durable types of hardwood finishes that is available. This type of finish is a little bit more difficult to apply for the average person. Professionals often apply this type of finish. One of the big benefits of this type of urethane is that it does not turn yellow or amber over time. This type of floor can also take a long time to cure depending on the amount of moisture in the air.

Water-Based Urethane

Water-based urethane is a type of finish that is considered to be a little bit nicer to work with. It will dry in as little as two hours. Water-based urethane is resistant to moisture and it is also very durable. This type of finish usually costs a little bit more than some of the other finishes that are available on the market.

Penetrating Oil Sealers

Penetrating oil sealers are another type of sealer that you could use for finishing hardwood floors after sanding them. This type of finish often comes with a color in it and is used by individuals that want to seal and stain the floor at the same time. Using this type of sealer can significantly speed up the process of staining and refinishing as everything is done in one step.

When you utilize this type of sealer, you need to put it on the floor and then allow it to absorb and penetrate down into the wood. This will fill up the pores in the wood and make it a more dense structure. Many people like this type of finish because it helps the wood become a bit harder on the surface which limits the number of scratches.

Wax

Wax is another type of finish that you could use on a hardwood floor. This type of finish has been used longer than any of the other finishes that are available. You can easily apply this to the hardwood floor and it is also one of the least expensive finishes on the market.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Patch and Repair Damaged Carpeting

 If your carpeting has suffered permanent damage due to a burn or stain, you don't have to hire a professional to repair the damage. People often hire professionals to mend damaged carpeting, and after observing the repair, they realize they could have easily completed the job in a matter of minutes.

Repairing a Burn

If you've discovered a burn, try to locate a piece of carpeting with similar wear as the area surrounding the damage. A piece of extra carpeting that was used for a runner is usually a good match for a moderately worn location.

If you don't have a piece of leftover carpeting and can't locate a match through a dealer, consider removing a section of carpeting from an inconspicuous area such as a closet. As a last resort, carpeting can be removed from under a piece of furniture that you don't plan on moving.

Begin by cutting away the damaged area with a sharp carpet knife. Cut all the way down to the surface of the padding, and remove a rectangular or square shaped piece surrounding the burned area. If the padding isn't damaged or burned, try to keep it intact.

Remove the piece you cut away, and use it as a stencil to create the patch. Pay careful attention to the direction of the pile, and trace the damaged piece on the back of the new carpeting with a marker. After cutting it out, you should have an exact replica of the damaged piece you removed.

Once you obtain a perfect fit, apply an even layer of carpet glue on the back and edges of the new piece. Carefully press it into place like a puzzle piece, and gently brush the fibers with your hand to blend and camouflage the repair. Let the glue dry for several hours before vacuuming or walking on the repaired area for best results.

Removing a Small Stain

If a small stain can't be removed with carpet cleaner, you can still get rid of it. If you have an extra piece of carpeting, or if you can obtain one from a dealer or from an inconspicuous area, it's possible to repair the damage. For best results, this meticulous method of repair should only be used for smaller stains. A larger stained area should be patched or replaced.

With a sharp pair of scissors, trim away the stained fibers, all the way down to the base of the carpeting. Once the stained fibers have been removed, trim off new fibers of the same length and shade from an extra piece of carpeting. The new fibers will be used to fill in the bare area.

Using a small paintbrush, carefully and thoroughly apply carpet glue to the bare spot. Using a pair of tweezers and a toothpick, position the ends of the new fibers into the base of the carpet until the area is entirely filled in. Allow the glue to dry completely before walking over the repair, and before vacuuming.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Refinish a Wood Floor with Varnish

 To varnish wood floor is an easy task that you can do all by yourself without hiring a professional. Varnished wood flooring is elegant and is better protected from damages compared to an unvarnished wood floor. Below are the materials that you need along with the instructions on how to varnish a wood floor.

What You'll Need:

• Working Gloves
•  Safety Glasses
•  Mask
•  Plastic sheeting
•  Hammer
•  Pliers
•  Nail pry
•  Electric floor sander
•  nail set
•  Belt or orbital sander
•  Orbital palm sander
•  Fine Grit Sandpaper
•  Putty knife
•  Putty
•  Vacuum Cleaner
•  Tack cloth
•  Polyurethane varnish
•  Paint brush

Step 1 - Wood Floor Preparation

Prepare the wood floor that you will work on by removing the old varnish using an orbital or belt sander. If you do not have an electric floor sander you can search your local yellow pages for nearby equipment rental shops. The internet is also a good source of information when looking for an electrical floor sander for hire.

Step 2 - Remove all the Furniture

Remove all the furniture found in your working areas such as chairs, tables, cabinets, sofas, and desks. This is to make sure that your working area is free from obstructions so that you can uniformly apply the varnish to the wood flooring. If you have floor molding you can also remove it so that it will not scuff with the electric floor sander.

Step 3-Check the Flooring

Check your wooden flooring for any protruding objects such as carpet tacks and nails. Remove the protruding objects using a pair of pliers. There are cases where removing a protruding nail on your wood flooring will do more harm than good. Instead, use a nail set to hammer down the nails. Check your wood flooring for any gaps as well and use putty to fill the gaps. Make sure to allow the putty to dry before proceeding to the next step.

Step 4-Seal your Working Area

Seal the room using plastic sheeting secured by tape. Cover all the openings such as doors and windows. This is to prevent dusts from entering your working area and damage your varnishing.

Step 5 - Wear your Protective Gear

Wear your mask, safety glass and working gloves before moving on to the next step.

Step 6 - Use the Electric Floor Sander

Remove the old varnish using the electric floor sander. Floor sanders can be quite heavy so be careful in handling your floor sander. Start in one corner of your wooden flooring and work your way gradually into the other side until you have covered all the areas. For sanding tight places, use smaller sanders.

Step 7 - Remove the Dusts

Using a vacuum cleaner, remove all the dust from using the electric floor sander. Vacuum the ceiling and walls as well to make sure that your working area is free from dust before applying the varnish to your wood floor.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Remove Mold from Berber Carpet

 A Berber carpet is one of the most comfortable and nicest looking carpets available. If there is ever any mold anywhere on your carpet then this can be very distressing.

It is possible to remove mold from your carpet if you have the right tools and materials available. Removing mold yourself will save you a hefty professional cleaning bill.

What You'll Need:

• Bristle brush
• Vacuum
• Hydrogen peroxide
• Baking soda
• Spray bottle
• Cloth

Brush Away Mold

Start by brushing away the surface mold by using the stiff wire brush. You may also like to vacuum the area after brushing the affected area to remove everything.

After vacuuming the area take the bag out and throw it away. Mold spores can be very dangerous and it's important to avoid inhaling them. You can never be too careful when it comes to mold because it can cause respiratory diseases and many other medical conditions.

Mixing the Solution

Mix up a solution of 1 part hydrogen peroxide to 3 parts water. Pour this solution into a spray bottle which is then ready for application. You can mix up a whole bottle of the solution and then store it for use when you need it. This mixture won't go bad so it's worth mixing up as much as you can.

Spraying the Area

Spray the affected area. Leave this until it dries completely and then thoroughly soak the area again. When spraying the solution on the carpet, you need to fully saturate it. Leave the solution on the carpet for about 15 minutes. Once you have let this rest you can then start scrubbing at it with the clean cotton cloth. You can also use a washing-up sponge to clean the affected area if the stain is more severe.

Baking Soda

Once you have cleaned the area using hydrogen peroxide you should then sprinkle baking soda on the stain. The baking soda will help to neutralize any smells and also get rid of the stain. This baking soda needs to be left on the carpet overnight. Before putting the baking soda on the stain make sure that the carpet is dry. If the carpet is still wet then the baking soda will turn into a paste which could damage your Berber carpet.

Vacuum

Vacuum the affected area to get rid of all of the baking soda. This will also help to fluff the carpet up again so that it's not all flat. Don't worry if the carpet doesn't spring back to life instantly, it may take some time for it to dry out completely.

Check the Results and Repeat

Once you have vacuumed up the baking powder you should be able to see how well the technique worked. If the stain wasn't removed properly then you may need to repeat the steps above several times.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Remove Self Levelling Cement from Quarry Tiles

This Quarry tiled floor was discovered in an old cottage in the Surrey village of Cranleigh. The new owners had found the quarry tiled floor under an old carpet and wanted to have it restored as an original feature. Unfortunately, it also had a covering of concrete screed over a large percentage of it. This is a fairly common practice when laying vinyl or carpet over tiles as it ensures a completely flat surface. From experience, I knew returning the tiles to a decent state would be possible but it’s difficult and unpleasant work. None the less I was happy to do the restoration and having visited the property to survey the floor I came up with a restoration plan that I was happy with. This evolved into a quote which the owners were happy to accept, and a date set for the work to commence.

 

Cleaning a Quarry Tiled Living Room

To remove the screed, I started with a power chisel fitted with a serrated attachment and started to carefully chip away at the screed. This is noisy and messy work, so I shut myself off from the world wearing eye protection goggles and ear defenders. Slowly the cement screed came away and was bagged up for removal.

Once I’d cleared the area of screed, a heavyweight buffing machine was introduced to the floor. Heavy iron bars were attached to the front to increase traction with the tiles and make cleaning and burnishing more effective. With the machine ready the quarry tiles were covered in a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean, and this was left to soak in for ten minutes.

A coarse 200-grit diamond pad was fitted to the machine and then run over the floor to work in the cleaning solution. This abrasive pad cuts into the surface of the tile to remove the years of dirt and grime. This is an aggressive, wet process but the cleaning solution captures the dirt and dust minimising the mess. Once done the floor was rinsed with water and the soiling extracted with a wet vacuum.

Attention was then directed at the grout which had to be hand scrubbed for the best results using more Pro-Clean. The whole floor was then inspected and any stubborn areas of staining were spot treated using the same process. Once I was happy with the condition of the tiles the floor was left to dry out overnight ready for sealing the next day.

 

Sealing a Quarry Tiled Living Room

Quarry tiles don’t particularly like aggressive cleaning processes and it can cause their colour to fade, however there is little alternative when they are this bad. With this in mind, I had decided to seal them with a colour enhancing sealer called Tile Doctor Colour Grow. This product is an impregnator which works by soaking into the pores of the tile, protecting it from within and ensuring any dirt remains on the surface, it also leaves the matt finish the client had requested.

Other sealers are available that offer a sheen or shiny finish however this client had a couple of dogs whose claws can damage a topical sealer, so an impregnator was the best option.

I returned a month later with some reclaimed tiles to fit around the front of the fireplace For aftercare cleaning I recommended the use of Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner which is ideal for the regular cleaning of sealed tiles and won't impact the integrity of the sealer.

Source: Quarry Tiled Floor Tile Renovation Service in Cranleigh Surrey

Terrazzo Stain Removal FAQs

 Caution: Follow directions carefully when you use chemicals to remove stains. Always "remove the stain remover" as soon as its job has been done. Remember many of these substances are on the "Not recommended list" for general floor care, but must be used if the stain is to be removed. Try the following methods for these common stains. Try the first method listed first, and go to the second only if this doesn't work. For unknown stains or heavy staining, consult a professional.

What You'll Need:

• Liquid detergent
• Powdered detergent
• Lemon juice
• Denatured alcohol
• Alcohol
• Hydrogen peroxide
• Ammonia
• Powdered malt
• Abrasive powder
• Glycerin
• Calcium carbonate
• Sodium perborate
• Powdered pumice
• Sodium perborate
• Whiting
• Paint solvent
• Sodium citrate crystals
• Absorbent cloth

Alcoholic Beverages

Use liquid detergent and warm water.

Follow with denatured alcohol if stain remains.

Lay an absorbent cloth soaked in hydrogen peroxide directly over the stain; put an ammonia-saturated cloth on top of this.

Blood

Try cold clear water first, then add a few drops of ammonia.

Wet spot with lukewarm water and sprinkle with powdered malt. Let stand an hour and rinse.

Coffee

Saturate an absorbent cloth with a solution of one part glycerin and three parts water and lay it over the spot.

Apply a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and calcium carbonate.

Apply a mixture of abrasive powder and hot water.

Fruit

Use a powdered detergent and warm water.

If rough spot results, rub with powdered pumice stone under a block of wood.

Grease or Oil

Use a liquid detergent and warm water

Pour solvent on spot. Rub with a clean, soft cloth.

Ink

Use a liquid detergent and warm water.

Apply a mixture of two tablespoon sodium perborate in a pint of water mixed with whiting into a paste. Repeat if necessary.

Some blue inks respond to the treatment of strong ammonia water solution applied on a layer of cotton.

Lipstick

Use a liquid detergent and warm water.

Lay an absorbent cloth soaked in hydrogen peroxide directly over the stain; put an ammonia-saturated cloth on top of this.

Paint

Use a liquid detergent and warm water.

Pour solvent on spot. Rub with a clean, soft cloth.

Rust/Iron

Apply a treatment made by mixing one part sodium citrate crystals to six parts water, mixed thoroughly with an equal amount of glycerin. Mix with whiting to form a paste stiff enough to stick to the surface in a thick coat. Allow standing several days. Repeat process if stain remains.

Soft Drinks

Lay an absorbent cloth soaked in hydrogen peroxide directly over the stain; put an ammonia-saturated cloth on top of this.

Tobacco

Try lemon juice in water.

Lay an absorbent cloth soaked in hydrogen peroxide directly over the stain; put an ammonia-saturated cloth on top of this.

Use a mixture of abrasive powder and hot water.

Treat with equal parts of alcohol and glycerin.

Urine

Apply a mixture of abrasive powder and hot water.

Lay an absorbent cloth soaked in hydrogen peroxide directly over the stain; put an ammonia-saturated cloth on top of this.

The chemicals listed may be purchased at drug stores or at chemical or laundry supply houses. Where poultices are recommended, apply them about one-half inch thick, and let the mixture dry thoroughly before removing.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

What Is Self-leveling Compound?

 A self-leveling compound is a chemical mixture used to smooth uneven concrete or wooden floors. It is ideal for filling dips in wooden floors or for smoothing concrete ones. It is very important to have an even-surfaced floor when planning to place ceramic tiles or any other floorings because uneven surfaces cause tiles to crack.

What You'll Need:

• Safety glasses
•  Face mask
•  Self-leveling compound
•  Trowel
•  Containers
•  Primer
•  Paintbrush

Preparing the Floor

The floor should be stable before applying a self-leveling compound. With concrete floors, this is hardly an issue, but with wooden subfloors, the task may be almost impossible to handle. If a wooden subfloor moves when you step on it, a self-level compound might not be the best decision: it will break. Furthermore, the floor needs to be cleaned from dust and dirt before applying a self-leveling compound.

Applying Primer to the Floor

Before placing the self-leveling compound, it is essential to apply a brush or two of primer. This way, you will ensure a solid bond for the self-leveling compound. You have to wait until the primer dries because if wet, it may react with the self-leveling compound and make it less stable. As part of the process, air the room after applying the primer and you will speed up drying and eliminate unpleasant smells.

Identifying Uneven Surfaces

You can slide a framing square over the floor and find if it has any cavities. Mark these spots: they will be the ones you apply self-leveling compound to.

Prepare to Work with a Self-leveling Compound

It is important to work fast because the self-leveling compound dries very fast. The whole process of pouring, mixing, and spreading the compound should take no more than 20 minutes. The manufacturer’s guide should be followed. It is recommended to work with gloves and a face mask to avoid breathing the dust from the self-leveling compound: it may lead to cough or even allergies. For best results, you should mix the compound with a drill and add as much water as specified in the instructions. It is better to use cold water, thus lengthening the period before the compound dries up.

Applying a Self-leveling Compound

Immediately after mixing the compound, you need to spread it to the previously identified uneven areas. Wait a little while until it begins to thicken and then use a drywall tool to make it even. Then you can spread it out to the whole room and ensure that the floor is even. It is important to know what you are doing and to do it quick. When the compound begins to thicken, you shouldn’t try to slow down the process by heating it up or by adding additional water. It will spoil the self-leveling compound and make it break afterward. In four hours, the compound will be hard enough to step on it.

Cleaning Up Afterward

Have a container on hand to store any leftover self-leveling compound, especially if you're filling up cavities. Wash the tools and containers you use with water right after using them to remove as much compound as possible. You may not be able to remove all the compound, in which case those tools will become the ones you use every time you work with self-leveling compound.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com