How to Lay Linoleum Kitchen Flooring

 Linoleum kitchen flooring is one of the most common types of floor options for this part of the home. Linoleum is both attractive to look at and highly functional. It is comfortable to walk and stand on and is easy to clean and maintain, making it the perfect foundation for your kitchen, where things are likely to spill and get messy on occasion.

While the process of installing linoleum flooring in your kitchen is somewhat involved, it is not particularly difficult. Read on for a brief overview of how to install linoleum flooring in your kitchen.

What You'll Need:

• Linoleum sheeting
• Broom and dustpan
• Linoleum adhesive
• Notched trowel
• Linoleum shears and measuring tape
• Steel floor roller

Step 1 - Prepare the Space

If you've removed the previous flooring in your kitchen, or if you're installing flooring for the first time, you'll first need to make sure that the area underneath the linoleum is perfectly clean. Sweep up any debris and remove any nails or other items which may stick out from the boards underneath the linoleum. This will ensure that the linoleum is able to go on flat and smooth and that it is less likely to suffer damage due to items underneath it.

Step 2 - Locate the Center of the Room

Locate and mark the center of the room using a measuring tape. This is important especially if you are using rolled linoleum, as you'll need to know how far each piece should be rolled out. If you're using precut sheets of linoleum, this will be the place that you begin to place the linoleum.

Step 3 - If Necessary, Cut the Linoleum

Measure out the kitchen floor space to determine how much linoleum you'll need. You'll place four sheets at the center mark, with one touching each corner. For rolled linoleum, measure the kitchen space two times and then double-check the length of the rolls, cutting where you need to with the shears. For sheet linoleum, calculate how many full sheets you can lay down and measure the remaining space so that you'll know how large the smaller pieces that you cut should be.

Step 4 - Apply Adhesive

Use a notched trowel to apply an even layer of linoleum adhesive beginning adjacent to the center mark in the room. Work quickly so that the adhesive doesn't have time to dry before you can lay the linoleum. Apply adhesive only to a small part of the room before you stop to lay linoleum.

Step 5 - Lay and Roll Linoleum

Lay the linoleum down over the adhesive, taking care to make sure that it's as flat as possible. Make sure that the linoleum is perfectly lined up the way that you'd like, because it's difficult to move after it comes into contact with the adhesive.

After laying down the linoleum, use the steel floor roller to roll it completely smooth and get rid of any air pockets that may exist underneath the linoleum sheet.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Tips and Techniques - Victorian Floor Restoration in York, England

The owner of this beautiful period property on the outskirts of York was renovating the whole property and had uncovered a Victorian tiles floor in the hallway. The tiles were extremely dirty and stained with white paint spots from decorating at some point in its long history.

 

I visited the property to survey the floor and come up with a renovation plan. It was indeed dirty but fortunately in reasonably good physical condition for its age. It needed a deep clean and there were some small repairs needed. I conducted a test clean on a small part of the floor which responded well and based on that I was able to give them an accurate quote for the renovation. They were happy to go ahead, and we arranged a mutually convenient time to complete the works.

 

Cleaning and Repairing a Victorian Tiled Hallway Floor

The first thing needing attention was to re-set some loose tiles at the door entrance which is a common problem with old floors. The sub floor and old tile were cleaned and reset using a fast-setting adhesive and grout. This was left to set for a time before making a start on deep cleaning the hallway floor.

First up was to apply Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which is our go to Tile and Grout cleaner which is diluted before being mopped on to the tile and allowed to soak in for ten minutes before being scrubbed in with a black pad and rotary machine.

After rinsing off the now dirty cleaning solution I could see something stronger was required to really shift the deep-seated dirt, paint sports and who knows whatever else had been used on the floor over the years. So, to turn up the cleaning power a notch I applied a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go using the same process and extracting the soil with a wet vacuum. This process where repeated and hand scrubbed some areas until I was satisfied the floor was clean.

The final stage was to give the tiles and acid wash by scrubbing in Tile Doctor Grout Clean-up, this process is designed to counter and salts in the tile, remove old grout smears and neutralise the pH level of the tile after using the alkaline cleaners earlier.

The floor was given a final rinsed and the wet vacuum was deployed for the las time until as much moisture as possible was taken out of the floor. The floor was left to dry naturally for a few days before returning to carry out the sealing.

Sealing a Victorian Tiled Hallway Floor

On returning to the property to carry out the sealing it was first tested for moisture using a damp meter. The tiles needed to be dry before sealing and any high readings can be resolved using a heat gun.

Once satisfied the floor was dry the floor it was sealed using four coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which will provide maximum protection from staining and enhance the colours in the tile. Additionally, Colour Grow is fully breathable which basically means it will allow any damp in the subfloor to rise through the tile and evaporate at the surface. This is an important consideration for old floors without a damp proof membrane as a non-breathable sealer can cause problems with damp building up under the floor.

 

The client was delighted with the result and was really pleased to see the floor restored to its former glory. As you can see from the photos the floor now looks clean and bright and this vastly improved the appearance of the hallway in keeping with the rest of this beautiful period property.

 

Source: Victorian Tile Cleaning and Restoration Service in Macclesfield

How to Take Care of a Teak Floor

 A teak floor is a beautiful option for flooring, both indoors and out. The straight lines in the grain and the variety of colors are striking. Although teak is very durable and low maintenance, you will need to give it some attention to keep it looking as beautiful as the day it was installed.

What You'll Need:

• Vacuum
• Bucket with warm water
• Ammonia
• Sponge mop
• Cleaner for hardwood floors
• Teak oil
• Rags

1 - Picking Up The Dirt

As with any hardwood floors, you will need to vacuum regularly to keep the dirt and debris from shoes from being ground into the wood grain and dulling the sheen. To get the ground-in dirt out of the joints and wood grain, use your vacuum's brush attachment to loosen it.

2 - Thorough Cleaning

To wash all of the stuck-on dirt and debris, mix one cup of ammonia into a warm bucket of water. Use a sponge mop that has been squeezed to remove most of the water to mop the floor. A sponge mop is best for this step because you do not want to get your teak floors overly wet because it can cause water spots.

The ammonia will help to remove water spots if you have any from a prior spill.

3 - Bring Out The Luster

After cleaning thoroughly to remove stuck-on dirt, allow the floor to dry completely. Next, use a floor cleaner made especially for hardwood floors, again using your sponge mop. This will bring back the sheen of the teak wood, as well as bring out the grain in the wood.

4 - Teak Oil

Teak has natural oils that keep down mold, as well as act as a natural insect repellent that deter termites and other pests. Over time, your teak will lose its oils and this will need to be reapplied. Depending on the traffic that your teak floor gets will determine how often this will need to be reapplied.

In high-traffic areas, you will apply teak oil twice a year. If it is in an area that is free from traffic, or barely used, once a year will be fine.

Apply the teak oil with clean, old rags. Follow the wood grain in the application and rub in well. If you notice that the oil is pulling up old soil within the wood, get a clean rag so you are not rubbing the dirt back in. Allow the oil to sink into the wood before placing the furniture back on it so you don't get spots.

5 - Maintenance

Since teak is very durable, other than regular cleaning and the occasional application of teak oil being reapplied, there are just a few things to keep in mind in maintaining your floor. You will need to rearrange rugs so that the sunlight does not make spots where the rest of the floor is exposed to UV rays.

Also, do not let damp rugs sit for long. If you have a spill, clean it up as soon as possible to avoid spots. If you do get a spot, use a damp cloth with a little ammonia to rub it away.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Making a Polished Concrete Floor

 It’s safe to say the industrial look is here to stay. Many of the highlighted materials included in the style are the same ones that have been used in construction for over 100 years. The difference now is that we don’t put a façade over them but rather allow the iron, steel, and concrete to show off all their natural appeal.

But that doesn’t mean they need to look raw or unrefined. Polished concrete floors are sleek and elegant, and blend with almost any design style for your home.

What You'll Need:

• Concrete (optional)
•  Concrete polisher w/vacuum attachment
•  Metal bonded diamond sanding wheels of varying grits
•  Polymer bonded diamond sanding wheels of varying grits
•  Epoxy concrete repair
•  Concrete densifier
•  Concrete sealer
•  As ALWAYS proper safety gear, including eye protection and gloves.

Step 1 - Pour Your Slab

Actually, this is a lot of work with a lot of equipment that merits a step-by-step article of its own. Your average DIYer should start with an existing slab. If you're an advanced DIYer starting your building project literally from the ground up, make sure you have all the necessary permits in hand before starting.

Mark out the boundary of your slab, check the level, and excavate as necessary. Create a solid base of compacted gravel. Frame out the form with dimensional lumber. You may need rebar reinforcements, especially on the perimeter.

Pour the premixed concrete into the form. Distribute the concrete into all the areas of the form. Screed it level to the top of the form using a 2x4. Use an edger to round the edges of the slab. Cut in control joints with a straight edge and a groover.

Let the concrete cure a little longer, then use a float to smooth it further. The concrete should continue to cure for three to four days, and can be misted with water and covered with plastic to keep it from cracking. After this point, remove the form, build a room around it, and get to polishing.

Step 2 - Prep Your Concrete and Your Space

If you’re pouring your own slab, it should be in pretty good shape, but if you’re polishing a pre-existing piece of concrete, this is the time to check things over for repairs and maintenance. Any large issues, like dried construction adhesive, should be removed at this time. The polishing process will create a lot of dust, so it’s best to keep things clean. Make sure the room you’re working on is properly separated from the rest of the living area with dust barriers.

Step 3 - The First Pass

If there’s already a finish on the concrete, it will be removed by the first pass with a concrete polisher. This tool is a walk-behind machine with sanding and polishing discs spinning at the bottom. It's rentable at many home improvement stores. Make sure you get one with an attached vacuum for dust control.

The polishing of the concrete starts with the heaviest grit metal bonded diamond disc. This will remove any finishes and small flaws on your slab. Take your time with each pass, overlapping slightly so there are no bare patches. This method will be the approach for the entire process.

Once the first pass is finished, inspect for more flaws exposed by the grinding. Use epoxy concrete repair to fill any cracks or blemishes.

Step 4 - Heavy Metal Grinding

Now that the first pass on the slab is done and the flaws are repaired, it’s time to work your way through the metal bonded diamond disc grits, going from heavy to light. Again, take your time with each pass, keeping an eye on how the surface is being removed. You may need to replace the discs in order to keep things fresh before you’re ready to step down to the next level.

If the polisher you rented doesn’t get all the way to the edges of your room, you’ll need to rent a separate edger so everything is even. Like everything else in this process, don’t rush and don’t skip a step. Because the polished look is so refined, it’ll reveal where you’ve skimped.

Continue on with the metal bonded discs, using finer and finer grit until you get the concrete to the desired level of smoothness.

Step 5 - Concrete Densifier and Polymer Polishing

With the heavy grinding done, you're almost ready to move on to polishing. But before that, there’s an important step that will add years to your polished concrete, and make it much easier to maintain. A liquid concrete densifier should be applied to the entire floor.

This material soaks into the concrete, bonding with it and making it denser. This surface is harder and will take a polish more readily.

Once the densifier is dry, mount the polymer-bonded diamond discs to the concrete grinder and start polishing. Like the last process, go down from heavier to lighter grits, taking your time with each pass, until the concrete reaches the desired level of polish.

Step 6 - Finish the Finish

Now that your floor is at the level of shine desired, you can apply a concrete sealer. This step is optional because the slab should be quite hard from the densifier, but the sealer will help in keeping the concrete clean.

Maintaining your polished concrete is simple. A microfiber cloth sweeping can take care of light dust and dirt. Wet mopping, either with clear water or a floor cleaner, can be used for heavier trafficked areas. Other than that, the concrete should give you years of durable use.

A simple process can take a basic building material like concrete and make it shine, producing a durable design element that can fit with nearly any style.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com