Restoring Victorian Tiles

I’ve seen a few Victorian Tiled floors in my time and I can tell you the condition of this particular floor was one of the worst I’ve seen in a while. The tiles had been covered up with carpet tiles which had been stuck down with a strong adhesive and there was still a fair amount of carpet tile backing that needed removing, grout was also missing in places and I could see a fair amount of work would need to be done to get this floor restored.

Cleaning Victorian Floor Tiles

The first job was to clean what I could of the floor and remove the remaining carpet tile so working in sections I applied Tile Doctor Pro-Clean and scrubbed it into the tiles carefully scraping off the tile backing as I went. There were a lot of tiles to cover so as you can imagine this was quite a painstaking process and I was literally working on one time at a time to get the job done. Once complete the floor was given a thorough rinse to remove any cleaning products and soiled cleaning solution which was then removed using a wet vacuum. Once the floor was clean it was evident that some tiles were loose and needed resetting and others would need grouting so I set about doing this making sure to use a matching grout.

Sealing Victorian floor Tiles

I left the floor to dry overnight and came back the next day to seal the tiles. Fortunately they had dried overnight so I applied four coats of Tile Doctor Seal & Go. This is an ideal sealer for Victorian tiles as it adds a classic shine to the floor and will provide good protection from stains going forward. I think you will agree the floor has been transformed and now loos amazing, certainly the customer was very happy.






Source: Expert Victorian Tile Maintenance Advice

Estimating Cork Flooring Prices and Installation Costs

When you are shopping around for cork flooring prices, you will undoubtedly come across several different ranges. Cork is a great type of flooring to have and it can provide a durable floor for you and your family for a number of years. It is quieter and warmer under foot than many other types of flooring. However, you need to determine if it is in your price range or not before you get too far along in the process. Here are a few tips for estimating cork flooring prices and installation costs.

Shop Around

Shopping around for cork will help you ensure that you get the best deal. Cork prices can range from as low as $3 per square foot, all the way up to $20 per square foot. There is definitely a big difference in quality between the cheaper products and the more expensive products. If you go too cheap on the flooring itself, you will likely be sacrificing some quality and durability as well. 

Installation

Installation costs can vary widely across the country. You could find labor as cheap as $1.50 per square foot and as much as $6 per square foot in some areas. Just make sure that you get a good contractor that knows how to install cork properly. 

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Bamboo vs Natural Cork Flooring: Pros and Cons

If you are considering the different types of natural flooring materials that are possible to install in your home, you may narrow it down to bamboo flooring or natural cork flooring. Both types of flooring are attractive options that you may want to consider when choosing what materials to use when building a new floor. However, it may be difficult to tell which is the better option. The truth is that both bamboo and cork make acceptable flooring materials, and come with their own unique set of advantages and disadvantages. What follows should show you the particular pros and cons of choosing to make your floors out of bamboo or cork.

Cleaning

Bamboo flooring is easy to clean. It is water resistant and can be treated like any other flooring material when cleaned. Provided a sealing product is used on it correctly when it is installed, bamboo is also resistant to stains.

Cork floors are slightly more difficult. Cork will expand if it gets wet—something that you do not want your floor to do. Cork floors that are exposed to water and expand may crack, or at the very least take permanent damage. Because of this, special care is required to clean a cork floor.

Damage Resistance

Cork and bamboo are quite similar in their ability to resist different types of damage. Cork flooring can be discolored or lightened by repeated exposure to sunlight. Bamboo is also vulnerable to damage from sunlight, especially over a long period of time. This means that putting bamboo or cork flooring in locations where it will get a lot of sun is not a good idea, which can be a significant drawback.

Cork and bamboo also resist and take physical damage in a very similar way. This is because cork and bamboo are both quite soft materials. On one hand, this is an advantage. Having a soft floor can be much more pleasant than a hard one. Softer floors may feel nicer than hard ones to touch or walk on. Additionally, soft floors may be able to spring back where a harder floor material would crack or chip.

However, the soft nature of bamboo and cork is also a disadvantage. They can both be vulnerable to damage from sharp objects and anything heavy that gets dropped. Additionally, they can be dented by the weight of heavy furniture, especially over the long term.

One difference: cork is particularly resistant to mold and mildew as well as to fire.

Cost

Bamboo is particularly cheap in comparison to wood floors. Cork is, at least compared to bamboo, somewhat expensive. However, compared with hardwood flooring, both are relatively cheap.

Sustainability

Bamboo and cork flooring are both thought of as sustainable options that provide a great alternative to traditional wood flooring. This is true, but the reality is slightly more complicated. While neither material innately involves destroying non-renewable resources, there is no requirement that any company that makes cork or bamboo flooring use environmentally friendly practices.

If you are interested in either cork or bamboo flooring for their sustainability, be sure to research the company you purchase your flooring materials from.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Remove Cork Floor Tiles

Cork floor tiles are a beautiful method of flooring that look nice and absorb a lot of sound. The are environmentally friendly and come in a number of different colors. They are attached with a strong adhesive, but are lightweight and easier to install than other kinds of flooring.

What You'll Need

• Utility knife
• Chisel
• Hammer or mallet
• Heat gun
• Garden hoe or shovel
• Broom and dustpan
• Gloves
• Goggles
• Power sander

Step 1 - Prepare and Consider Your Options

Removing cork floor tiles is a difficult process and will require a lot of elbow grease, no matter how you go about it. If the adhesive was applied correctly, you’ll have a difficult time trying to pull up the tiles. You should wear gloves and goggles during the removal process to keep yourself safe from any dust or nails. Before you remove all the cork floor tiles, you should consider laying your new floor down on top of the tiles instead of on the subfloor. There are tools and tips for installing floor tiles on top of cork floor tiles online.

Step 2 - Scrape up the Cork Floor Tiles

Use a utility knife to cut each piece of tile in half. If the tiles are too large to cut in half the whole way through, you can cut them to sizes you can work with. Scrape underneath the half tile with your chisel. Hit it with a hammer or mallet as far as possible under the tile. Your method of removal will depend on how strong the adhesive is and how big your chisel is. Use a bigger chisel to remove larger sections of cork floor tiles.

Step 3 - Other Methods of Removal

If you’re having a tough time on your hands and knees removing floor tiles one by one, there are a few other options to speed up the process. Some have said that using a garden shovel or hoe that you can remove tiles more efficiently and with less strain on your back. If you have a heat gun, you can use it to melt some of the adhesive and remove the cork floor tiles more easily. With a heating gun and a garden tool you can decrease the time spent on removing cork floor tiles.

Step 4 - Clean and Sand

It’s best to clean as you go when removing cork floor tiles to leave more room to scrape up the tiles around where you’re working. Use a broom and dustpan to clean up any small pieces of cork floor tiles leftover. You can use a power sander to help sand down any adhesive that’s leftover on the subfloor and to remove any chunks of cork tile that are still stuck to the floor. The sander will also give you a smooth and even surface where you can install your new floor.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Cleaning Oil from Concrete Flooring

Concrete flooring is a beautiful and nearly maintenance free choice for the interior of your home. Popularity of these floors is increasing and rightfully so. Concrete floors are beautiful and with the treatments available today, you don’t have to be left with a solid gray finish. Decorative polymer overlays, colored glazes, and paints can add color and detail to a concrete floor. However, an oil stain or two can damage the look of your concrete floor. There are a number of chemical products on the market that claim they remove stains from concrete. While that may be true, these products are usually very dangerous and not suitable for use around children and pets. As long as you act quickly, you can remove oil from concrete flooring with soap and water. 

Tools and Materials Needed:

• Dish washing liquid
• Water
• Nylon bristle scrub brush

Step1—Apply the Soap and Water

Apply the dish washing liquid to the soap and add water. When choosing your dish washing liquid, make sure to use the best one you have on hand.  The cheaper brands don’t usually cut grease as well. You want to create a dense lather that will lift the oil out of the concrete. As the stain lifts out, oil carried with the soap can cause a secondary stain. To prevent this, wet down the surrounding area. If the surrounding concrete is wet it shouldn’t absorb the excess oil. Grab the scrub brush and get to work!  Don’t use a metal bristle scrub brush. This type of brush will remove the oil but it will surely damage your floor in the process. If you have a floor with a smooth finish, a metal bristle brush will leave a large scar that cannot be repaired.

Step 2—Blot Up the Soap and Oil Residue

Because the concrete floor is inside your home, hosing the area down isn’t really an option. Instead, use towels to blot the water/soap/oil mixture from the floor. Cleaning the residue this way also eliminates the chance of oil getting on your rugs or furnishing. If your oil stain was rather large, you can blot up the residue with fresh cat litter. This dry compound will absorb all of the moisture left on the floor and can be swept up and thrown in the garbage once it is completely dry. Simply lay a layer of the cat little on the wet areas and rope off to eliminate foot traffic. The litter is usually dry and ready for disposal in no more than 24 hours.

This method of removing oil from concrete is easy and environmentally friendly. Not to mention it is safe to use around your children and pets. This method also works well on the porous concrete found in patios and driveways. However, the slicker finish of interior concrete makes it all the more effective. With a scrub brush and a few minutes your concrete floor will be oil free and beautiful!      

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Deep Cleaning Victorian Tiled Floors

The Victorian tiled floor shown below comprised of a complex square and diamond pattern contained with a parallel border and must of take a lot of work when it was first installed. It had been a while since it was last given a deep clean and was now looking rather dull and lifeless; we come across a lot of these floors at Tile Doctor and the remedy is a straight forward deep clean and reseal.

Restoring Victorian Quarry Tiles

The first task was to clean the floor with a dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which was left to dwell on the tiles for a short while before being scrubbed in washing the floor down afterwards and extracting it with a wet vacuum to remove the soiled cleaning solution. This did a reasonable job of cleaning up the tiles but there were some stubborn areas that would need further attention and what I suspected to be remnants of an old sealer. A stronger product was required and so the next step was to cover half the floor with Tile Doctor Remove & Go leave it to dwell for a time and then scrub the floor again with a rotary machine fitted with a scrubbing pad. Again the tiles were rinsed and the dirty cleaning solution removed using a wet vacuum. Once done the process was repeated on the other half of the floor. Working in sections like this allows more room in what was a tight hallway and also ensures the cleaning products don’t dry out. This process removed all the old seal and drew out the ingrained dirt. I them rinsed the floor with a dilution of Tile Doctor Grout Clean Up to deal with a few stains and grout problems before removing it with the wet vacuum and giving the entire floor a thorough rinse with water which was repeated a couple of times; again the wet vacuum was used to extract the water from the tiles and get them as dry as possible.

Sealing Victorian Tiles

I had finished cleaning the floor and so left for the evening returning four days later to seal the floor. Fortunately the customer had planned a short break away so the tiles were nice and dry and still clean on my return. To seal I applied a single coat of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is an impregnating sealer to give a good base followed by three coats of Tile Doctor Seal & Go which is a topical sealer that added the shine the customer required.

 



Source: Deep Cleaning Victorian Tiled Floors

Concrete Floor Repair: How to Patch a Hole

Concrete floor repair is essential in the upkeep of your home, patio or garage. Patching a hole while it is small will help prevent future damage.

Clean

Your floor must be clean before you begin working. Remove all dirt and loose material. If the hole is tapered you will need to remove the taper in order for your patch to be strong. 

Adhesive

An adhesive needs to be applied before the concrete filler. Use a paint brush to apply the adhesive, then slowly fill the hole with the concrete filler. The filler should be mixed according to package directions. Do not make more filler than you will use in 20 minutes. If your hole is more than 1/4 of an inch deep you will need to apply the filler in layers. Let each layer dry before you add a new one. Use a trowel to compact the filler and then smooth the surface. Remove any excess filler. 

Finishing 

Once you are satisfied with your patch job cover you need to cover the area with plastic. Place an old garbage bag over the area and weigh it down. Leave the plastic in place for three or four days.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Cleaning Victorian Tiles After Building Works

Apologies for the first photograph, I realise now it’s a little out of focus but hopefully you can see that the Victorian Tiled Floor pictured (at a residence in the market town of Farringdon, Oxfordshire) was not looking its best and this was mainly due to the fact that the house had recently undergone some extensive building work and had become very dirty in the process.

Refurbishing Victorian Tiles

The first thing I did was protect the skirting board and doors from splashes and then to clean the floor I applied a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro Clean and this was left to dwell on the floor for a good twenty minutes. It was then worked into the tile using a deck brush and then more Pro-Clean was applied so the floor didn't dry. I then scrubbed the floor with a rotary floor machine fitted with a scrubbing pad. After I finished the soiled cleaning solution was extracted using a wet vacuum and the whole floor was then rinsed with clean water to remove any trace of cleaning product. The tiles were then inspected and the process re-applied to areas that needed it; I then left the floor for two days so it could dry thoroughly.

Sealing Victorian Quarry Tiles

When I returned the floor was dry so I sealed it using a single coat of Tile Doctor Colour Grow followed by four coats of Tile Doctor Seal & Go. This is a great combination as the Colour Grow impregnates the tile improving the colours and protecting it from within whilst Seal and Go adds a further layer of protection and also added a nice subtle shine that the customer wanted.








Source: Victorian Floor Maintenance in Oxfordshire

Installing A Soundproof Floor

Installing a soundproof floor is a great way to significantly reduce noise levels for almost any type of room. You can install a soundproof floor in a child's bedroom, home theater or literally any other room in the house. Installing a soundproof floor involves attaching a sound muffling barrier to a standard hard floor surface. Then, new flooring is installed on top of the soundproofing. This is a great DIY project for the weekend, and can usually be completed in less than a day.

Before You Begin

When using a heavy duty staple gun or nail gun, you should always ensure that you are wearing adequate eye protection. Standard construction eye safety glasses are inexpensive and provide sufficient protection for this type of work. 

What You'll Need

• Sound barrier Examples: Quiet Barrier or Econo Barrier
• Knee pads
• Heavy duty staple gun or nail gun
• Heavy duty shears or scissors
• Vinyl barrier tape
• Acoustic sealant
• New flooring materials of your choice
• Safety Glasses

Step 1– Preparing the FloorIf your room uses carpet flooring, you will need to remove the carpet, carpet padding in any floor baseboards that are installed. If you plan on reusing this carpet, then simply set it aside so that you can reinstall it after you've finished installing the soundproof floor material. Alternatively, you can choose to install new flooring material afterwards.

Step 2– Placing the Soundproofing Material
Starting at one side of the room, and at the wall, roll out the soundproofing material to the other wall. Then, cut the soundproofing material so that it fits snugly against the wall.

Step 3– Attaching the Soundproofing Material
Using your heavy duty staple gun or nail gun, staple or nail the soundproofing material to the sub-flooring; make sure to put enough staples or nails along the edges to insure the material does not shift or move. Then use the vinyl barrier tape to seal along the edges of the wall perimeter.  If your sub-flooring is made of concrete and not wood, then use contact cement to secure the soundproofing material.

Step 4- Sealing the Soundproofing Material
Once you have completed taping the perimeter of the room with the vinyl barrier tape, use the tube of acoustic sealant to evenly caulk along the top of the tape at the edges of the walls. Make sure that there are no gaps or crevices in the sealant caulking. If you can find acoustic sealant in a standard caulk tube, then using a regular caulk gun works much better.

Step 5– Install the FlooringReinstall the carpet padding and carpet, or install the new floor according to the manufacturer’s instructions. 

Step 6– Finishing Up
Using your heavy duty stapler or nail gun, reattach the baseboards.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Installing Floor Insulation Under the Floor

Installing floor insulation will save you money on heating and cooling costs. If you live in an older home and notice that the floors are usually cold, then that cold air is radiating into the room. Your heating costs will be much higher during the colder seasons. When you install floor insulation it will protect your floor from moisture, and keep the cold air from reaching the floor. 

Installation of floor insulation is a very straightforward process. If the house is a new construction, or you are adding an addition, it is easily done before the subfloor goes down. If you live in an older home, then the process is a little trickier, but still easy to do. 

Materials Needed 

• Insulation
• Stapler
• Utility Knife
• Measuring Tape
• Metal Insulation Brackets
• Vapor Barrier
• Gloves 
• Face Mask

Step One - Measure Floor
With your tape measure, determine how much floor insulation you will need. Measure the width and length of the room and multiply them together to give you the square footage of the room. Take this with you when you order the insulation. You will also want to determine the R-factor of the insulation. The R-factor is the amount of insulation your home has. The higher the number, the more efficient it is. Insulation is also sold in rolled batts. If you know how many square feet you need, then you can simply purchase the appropriate number of rolls. 

Step Two - Install Insulation - New Construction
There are two ways to install the floor insulation. If you are in a new home that does not have any flooring down yet, you can lay the insulation in between the exposed joists. Starting at one end of the room, work your way to the other corner. Fold out the paper flaps along the side of the insulation and staple it to the joist. Staple the insulation every six inches or so. Lay down the water barrier over the insulation and staple to the joists.

Step Three - Install Insulation - Basement
In an older home the process is basically the same, but you will have to insulate below the floor in the basement or crawl space. Again, start in the corner of the room and unroll the insulation. You will have to life up the insulation in between the joists and staple. Place metal supports on the joists to help hold the insulation up. Continue until you have completed the entire floor. 

If you are remodeling your room in the near future, it would be better to wait until you tear up the floor to add the floor insulation. Once you get to the subfloor, pry it up to expose the joists and lay the insulation as you would in the first example. Reinstall the subfloor over the vapor barrier and finish with your floor remodel. Now when you walk out onto the floor in the dead of winter your feet will be warmer because of the floor insulation.




Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Floating Subfloor Installation Tips

If you have a cement floor, you might want to think about adding a floating subfloor before the top covering. Cement can keep the floors cold because it does not retain heat. Plywood, or OSB board, does make a great subfloor over cement. Here are a few tips to help you install your floating subfloor.

Keep Cement Clean beore Laying Plywood Subfloor
If there is any type of dirt, debris, screws, nails, or even a liquid, it can cause major damage to the plywood subfloor. Make sure you thoroughly clean the cement floor before you attempt to add a subfloor.

Acclimate the Wood Before Installation

There is always a period of time when the wood needs to acclimate itself to the room it is going to be installed in before the actual installation. Some wood require more time than others, but letting the plywood sit in the room for at least 24 hours will keep it from shrinking and expanding enough to ruin your floor.

Check Moisture in Cement

Cement does retain some moisture for a long period of time. Check the moisture levels in the concrete before laying the floating subfloor. You many have to use a water barrier.

Lay Floating Subfloor

As you lay down the 1/2 inch plywood, or OSB, keep 1/8 inch of space between each sheet.



Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Rubber Floor Tile Installation

This article will explain how you can complete rubber tile installation. Rubber flooring needs minimal maintenance and creates a slightly supple feeling under your feet. Rubber tiles can withstand daily wear and tear, even in high-traffic areas like the garage. Rubber offers a less slippery surface than vinyl flooring.

What You'll Need

• Trowel
• Leveling compound
• Plywood bit
• Kraft paper
• Packaged rubber tiles
• Chalk
• Utility knife
• Rubber tiling adhesive
• Tape measure
• Linoleum roller
• Caulk

Step 1 – Prepare the Surface

Thoroughly clean the area you will be tiling. The surface should be dry and free of any lose debris. Scrub away all traces of paint, grease and oil with a trowel. Such substances can affect the bonding action of the adhesive. You can use leveling compounds to create a uniform concrete surface.

Step 2 – Prepare the Rubber Tiles

Remove the rubber tiles from their packaging. Ideally you should do this at least 2 days prior to laying the tiles. Place the rubber tiles in the room where you'll complete the tile installation. The tiles will assume the same level of surface moisture and temperature as the floor. This aids the overall bonding process. Ensure that the room is well-ventilated during this period (but without any kind of water seepage).

Step 3 – Measure for the Tile Installation

You need to take measurements in two ways. First take the measurements for the floor with no vertical obstructions. Divide the room into four sections with chalk. Using the tape measure, mark the center of the room. Start laying tiles within each chalked section. Make sure to place them along the chalked lines. You should begin laying the tiles from the marked center. Count and note the number of tiles that fit in each section.

Secondly you need to take measurements for the floor surface that has vertical obstructions, like the floor area around the wall edges and doorjambs. Place a tile against the base of the vertical obstruction and let it overlap the nearby tile, previously placed. Using a utility knife, cut off the overlapping part of this tile. If the vertical obstructions have edges that you can't easily cover with this method, use Kraft paper. Create a template of the problematic base of each vertical obstruction upon the Kraft paper. Trace the design of the template onto the tile. Now, cut along the traced lines with a utility knife.

Step 4 – Install the Tiles

You should start at the corner of the room that is most distant from the exit. Remove the tiles that you placed for measurement purposes. Pour an ample amount of tiling adhesive on the subfloor. Spread the adhesive with a trowel. Start placing the tiles over the adhesive-covered floor. Press down on the tiles to squeeze out excess adhesive. Wipe off the excess with a piece of cloth.

Step 5 – Finish the Tile Installation

The tiled surface may display some bumps due to air bubbles in the adhesive. You should level it with a linoleum roller. Let the floor and tiles bond properly through the night. On the next day, caulk any visible gaps between the vertical structures and the rubber floor tiling.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Burnishing Travertine Floor Tiles

This property in Telford had been purchased six months earlier with a view to refurbishing it and had recently started to get it back in shape. The history of the Travertine tiled floor was unknown but there was evidence of the wrong kind of maintenance as the legs of the kitchen cabinet was blown by excess moisture. The new owner did mention that the previous owner had three teenage children and I suspect keeping the floor maintained properly was probably not a priority.

Cleaning Travertine Tiles

The first step was to give the floor a general wash to remove any grit and the grout clean so we started by applying a mild dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which was spread over the floor with particular attention paid to getting the solution into the grout lines. The solution was left to dwell for 10 minutes in order for it to soak in and eat through any dirt and existing sealer; we then used a stiff grout brush to scrub each and every grout line. Next we removed any trace of product by using a wet vacuum and rinsing thoroughly with clean water. The next step was to use our diamond encrusted burnishing pads which attach to a rotary machine and burnish the floor with four different grits from coarse to super fine. First using course pad number 1 we put some clean water on the floor and using our rotary machine slowly burnished the area making sure that we passed over each tile 4 times, this coarse pad cuts into the surface grime of the floor and also removes sealers. The resultant soiled water is rinsed away with clean water which in turn is removed using a wet vacuum. This process is then repeated with the remaining pads, rinsing between each pad until a nice polish is built up on the tile. The floor is then given a final rinse and once we were satisfied that all the slurry had been removed we left the floor to dry overnight.

Cleaning Travertine and Limestone Tiles

When I returned the floor was tested using a damp meter to make sure the Travertine had dried sufficiently for sealing. It had so I started to seal it using a single coat of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is an impregnating sealer that will occupy the pores in the stone to prevent other contaminates getting in there, Colour Grow also brings out the colours in the stone.


It’s tricky to capture all of this with photographs although you should be able to see the shine now the polish has been restored, the main thing is the customer was very happy with the results and was kind enough to leave the following message. “We moved into a house with very unloved travertine tiles in the kitchen, bathroom and WC. We were really impressed with Jozsef. He was friendly, knowledgeable and conscientious. He was up front with us about what could be achieved with the tiles and we are very pleased with the results. He worked efficiently, was tidy, prompt and mindful of our very young children. We would definitely recommend Jozsef.”





Source: Expert Travertine Tile Maintenance Site

Cleaning A Stained Concrete Floor

You may choose a stained concrete floor because it is easy to clean and also because it is safe if you suffer from allergies. While a stained concrete floor is sealed against dirt, it does need some special care when cleaning.

What You'll Need

• Broom 
• Mop 
• Bucket of cool water 
• Mild cleaner (dish soap) or other neutral cleaner 

What You'll Never Need

• Floor pads that are green, brown or black 
• High alkaline cleaners 
• Synthetic mop 

Step 1-Sweep the Stained Concrete Floor
Keep dirt off of your stained concrete floor by regularly sweeping the floor with a broom or dust mop. Dirt left on the concrete can leave scratches.

Step 2-Avoid Concrete Floor Stain
Add a small amount of dish soap or other neutral cleaner to a bucket of cool water. Clean the stained concrete floor with a mop. Thoroughly wring the mop before swabbing a small section of the floor. Rinse and repeat wringing and moping until the entire floor is cleaned without any soap residue.

Step 3-Concrete Floor Stain Removal
Immediately wipe up spills or soiled areas so they don’t cause a stain. Gently scrub the floor with a soft brush, mild soap and cool water for a concrete floor stain that is not removed with mopping.

Step 4-Stained Concrete Floor Finish
Keep the finish on the concrete floor looking glossy with the occasion use of a high-speed buffer with a white pad.

Step 5-Maintaining a Stained Concrete Floor
To maintain the durability of a stained concrete floor apply sealer at least every 3 to 4 years. Sealers for a stained concrete floor are available at home improvement stores or you can contact a professional to do the job.


Source: www.DoItYourself.com