Maintaining Victorian Tiles

Details below of a bread and butter job recently completed in Coundon near Coventry to Clean, repair and seal Victorian floor tiles. I call it a bread butter job as this is something we do a lot off and have therefore become quite proficient including colour matched repairs to grout and tile replacement.

Cleaning Victorian Tiles

The tiles were quite dirty and in need of a deep clean so a 50/50 mix of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean and NanoTech UltraClean was diluted with water and left to soak into the tiles for around 15 minutes before being scrubbed into the Victorian tile and grout using a slow speed rotary machine fitted with a scrubbing pad. The dirty solution was removed and the process repeated and grout lines scrubbed until I was happy the tiles were clean; this was then followed with a thorough rinse with water and a wet vacuum was used to remove the fluids and get the tile and grout as dry as possible. We have a special fan to accelerate the drying process so this switched on and moved around the floor until it was dry.

Sealing Victorian floor tiles

Once the floor was dry we started to seal it using Tile Doctor High Shine sealer which provides stain protection as well as a very shiny finish, hopefully you can appreciate the difference in the photographs on this page.





Source: Expert Victorian Maintenance site

5 Steps to Replace Raised Floor Panels

Replacing missing or warped raised floor panels is a very easy project for anyone to complete. Raised floor systems are those which are lifted slightly off the floor to allow cables and pipes to pass easily underneath. They tend to be susceptible to damage. With the right tools and materials, you will be able to easily replace raised floor panels.

What you'll need

• Screwdriver
• Replacement Panels
• Cleaning Solutions

Step 1 – Inspecting the Floor

The first thing that you will need to do is inspect the state of your raised floor. Decide whether individual floor panels need to be replaced or if the whole floor needs some attention. Move the furniture out of the room so that you can decide exactly how many panels need replacing. Replacing more than one panel now will be much easier, as you are already lifting up one of the panels anyway.

Step 2 – Lifting up the Floor Panels

Once you have identified which panels need to be lifted, it’s then time to remove them. The method of doing this will vary, depending on the type of raised floor you are using in your room. Sometimes these panels simply lift out, whereas other times they need to be unscrewed or unbolted before they can be removed.

If you're not sure how to do this you need to spend time figuring it out. Perhaps you can find the answer in your installation manual, assuming you still have it.

Step 2 – Buying Replacement Panels

Now you need to buy replacement floor panels. You will find this easiest when replacing like for like. Measure the floor panels so that you can buy the right type to fit the floor. Concentrate on not only the measurements, but also the thickness.

Replacement panels can be purchased from many sources. If you are having trouble locating a supplier you could always make your own.

Step 3 – Replacing Panels

Now it's time to replace the panels in the floor. Do this by following the same procedure you used to remove them in the first place. Repeat this as many times as necessary until the damaged panels have been removed and replaced.

Step 4 – Cleaning the Floor

Once your new raised floor panels are in place it’s time to give the whole floor a good clean up. This will make the rest of the floor look as good as new. It will also help to remove any finger prints that you may have accidentally left on the tiles when you picked them up.

The cleaning materials that you will use will depend on the material of your flooring tile. Stainless steel raised flooring tiles, for example, should not be cleaned with an abrasive cleaner. Specialist stainless steel cleaners are available for this task.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Cleaning Slate Tiles in a Kitchen

These Slate tiles were installed in the kitchen of a house in Glasgow and as you can see from the photograph below they were looking dull and tired and there was evidence of grout haze over a lot of the tiles. The Tile Doctor diagnosis was that a face lift was in order for which a deep clean and re-seal was prescribed.

Cleaning a Slate Floor

The first step was to sweep up all the loose debris from the floor; we scrub the floor quite hard during our work so it’s important to remove any grit that could scratch the surface of the tile. We then mixed a dilution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go 50/50 with Nanotech Ultra Clean and began to work the solution into the floor allowing it to dwell for around an hour first (This process helps to soften and break down the remains of the sealer on the stone). We used a hard deck scrubber to agitate the chemicals and loosen the dirt and old sealer from the floor which is then extracted from the surface using a wet vacuum and rinsed down with clean water several times to make sure all chemicals are removed. The next step was to apply a dilution of Tile Doctor Grout Clean-up which was then scrubbed the floor once again with hard deck scrubber. This broke down and removed all of the cement/ grout haze that the installer had left over the surface of the tile, again the floor was then rinsed with water and extracted to remove any chemical residue. The floor was scrubbed again this time using a dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean to make sure all old sealer, cement, grout haze and dirt had been completely removed. We then give the floor a thorough and final rinse and mopped the tiles with Neutral Tile Cleaner to neutralise any remaining trace of chemicals and removed the solution using the wet vacuum before leaving the floor to dry overnight.

Sealing a Slate Floor Sealing

Once the floor was dry it was then sealed using five coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which was chosen to provide the desired finish that the customer wanted.





Source: Help cleaning Slate tiled floors

Choosing Ceramic Tile Designs

When choosing specific ceramic tile designs for your projects, there are several factors that must be taken into consideration. Where is the space you plan on tiling? Is it a bathroom or kitchen, where water is likely to be introduced? Does the space incur a high level of traffic or excessive wear from family or pets? Is this an area where furniture will be slid or moved on a regular basis? All of these are key factors to consider when choosing ceramic tile finishes or types to install. A well laid tile floor can last for a long time, so your selection should be made carefully, as this investment in your home can be as long-lasting as your home itself. 
A trip to your local tile house or home improvement center can answer most of your questions, and offer ideas for colors, textures, materials and patterns for your specific application. Cost is a consideration for almost any project, and tile can run the gamut from affordability to outlandish expense, but the more common ceramic tiles we will speak about here typically lean more towards affordable. It’s important to shop around and call various suppliers, as cost can vary from store to store, and brand to brand. 

Another consideration when sourcing materials is delivery. The logistics in moving and delivering tile is something to take into consideration, should your personal vehicle not be able to handle the tremendous weight associated with ceramic tiles. Most home improvement suppliers offer truck rentals on an hourly basis, which is an affordable way to get your ceramic tiles home if delivery is not an option. 

Some Ceramic Tile Options

Natural Tile: The Ancient Romans realized the artistic and stylistic benefits of a durable, adaptable tile floor. Many of the styles originated by the ancients can still be found today across the spectrum of tile options. Typically, the tiles were bisque or natural in tone, made of earthenware clay, fired and glazed to the desired colors.

If you are looking for a natural aged look - perhaps in a southwestern or Tuscan style kitchen - then a tile style of this nature might be exactly what you are looking for. The finish on these types of tiles may not be totally uniform, which adds to its beauty and variety. Additionally, this style typically does not support a totally glass-smooth surface area; slight undulations and waves in the finish also add to the aged look. The glaze used in some of the natural tile options also provide for a certain amount of wear that when viewed over time, give the tile a fine aged patina, and truly adds to that natural element many are seeking. 

Patterned Ceramic Tile: For a more modern look, or a mix of old and new, an imprinted or patterned tile may be what you are looking for. Combining elements of both the natural texture of ceramic tile and the technology available today, manufactures have begun stamping and glazing tile in such a way that a uniform size, shape and finish are created in a controlled environment. When installed, the overall effect is a clean, sharp style with the stylistic impact of a stone or natural tile. These tiles are widely available and offered in a range of tones, textures and hues. 

The ease of installation as well as consistency in the tile patterning afford you the ability to seamlessly repair any damaged or cracked tile without the need to adapt, as is the case with earthenware or natural tile option. The application of these types of tiles is wide open, perfect for a kitchen, bath, foyer, living or dining room. One difficulty some have found is matching a bull nose – the rounded corner piece used on stairs – so be sure to verify that a bull nose is available for your selected style. 

Glazed Ceramic Tile: A departure from the stone textures is the heavy glazed ceramic style tile, most typically associated with bathroom floors. These floors are easy to install, highly adaptable, and offered in a wide array of colors and patterns. Depending on your personal styles, you can tailor your floor to almost any pattern and design that you can imagine. 

One amazing feature of ceramic glazed tiles is the growing trend of painted, patterned tiles, offered in a wide variety of styles, from Italian frescos to mosaic patterns. Another aspect many like is the availability of smaller joints than other tile floors. Typically on the larger tiles, joint spacing might be 3/8” heavy sanded grout. With these smaller ceramic tiles, you can get away with unsanded, light smooth grout. Most manufacturers of the smaller ceramic floor tiles incorporate spacers molded into the sides of the tiles, making them perfect for first time installers. 

Mosaic Tile. Another option for flooring tiles is the mosaic, or scaled tile, offered in a sheet section, typically 2’ x 4’. These large sheets can be installed easily, and offer the amateur an easy installation as compared to smaller unconnected sections. These mosaic tiles are offered in a wide variety of materials and finishes, from glass to ceramic. One nice feature is the range of options offered by scattered or mixed batch tiles, which have a multi-color pattern and bright, vibrant colors, all while remaining relatively affordable. These tiles are highly adaptable in their colors and textures, and scaled in such a size – 2”x 2” tiles - that you can install them in virtually any space. The combination of colorful grouts and mosaic tiles can truly add sparkle and diversity to the most mundane of spaces.



Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Top Ten Benefits of Ceramic Tile

When deciding on a new floor, you have lots of options, and while ceramic tile is only one of those options, the following are ten facts that set ceramic apart from others. The decorator effect of tile has only recently taken hold in homes of all styles; from contemporary to colonial, tile has a design and style to fit all applications. Tile is widely adaptable and can be used in an array of settings, from kitchens and baths to dining rooms and living rooms. Whether it’s a stone finish you're after or a traditional glazed finish, there’s a style to suit every taste. 

Ease of Maintenance. While no floor remains entirely maintenance free, ceramic tile comes about as close at it can to being service free. Short of the application of the occasional sealant, applied once every four years or so, tile requires only the regular cleaning that any flooring surface would require. With the installation of grout, tile becomes almost impervious to water damage, and can be virtually hosed off if necessary. Many specialty products are currently available that assist greatly in tile maintenance and upkeep, all of which can be found in nearly any home goods provider or supermarket. 

Adaptability. There is a tile option for nearly any application, and your imagination and creativity are your only limitations when installing tile. From porticos in a dining room to a tiled hearth in front of a fireplace, you can adapt tile to nearly any surface, indoors or out. Tile’s adaptability has been exploited throughout Europe, and examples for tile floors can be seen in kitchens, living rooms, dining rooms and even bedrooms. In some destinations abroad, it is not uncommon to find an entire house tiled wall to wall, in an effort to keep cool, and provide a versatile flooring surface. 

Cost Effectiveness. Dollar for dollar, tile still remains one of the most cost effective flooring surfaces on the market today. When considering initial costs versus longevity, it becomes quite clear that ceramic tile overall offers the best "dollar per mile" of any flooring surface. Ceramic tile's limited upkeep and maintenance adds to its value even further. Square footage material costs stay in check with most other alternatives, and while the initial installation costs may be slightly higher, it's important to consider all the long term costs and value when judging overall cost effectiveness. 

Installation Variety. While your installation options are only limited by your imagination, there are a number of ideas already in place to get your creative juices flowing. Although flooring has always been the number one usage of ceramic tile, you aren't limited to just floors. Backsplashes, porticos, murals and countertops can all be tiled in an artistic manner, subject to your décor. You can match your floor to your tile walls, or contrast the two to make your project stand out even more. 

Durability. The ancient Romans saw the benefit of tile in its durability, and this fact is not lost on us modern folks. Tile is great for high traffic situations thanks to its strength and resiliency to staining and wear. The ancient Romans originally used tile in a utilitarian manner, but it was soon obvious even to them that a decorative element could be introduced to tiling. While not extremely impact resistant, the wear ability of tile is the reason for its durability. 

Ease of Repair. Even though ceramic is strong, there is still the opportunity for breakage, as with any earthenware. When a breakage does occur, repairing tile is far simpler than fixing hardwood or plank flooring. Simply remove the broken pieces, clean the area, reinstall replacement tiles and regrout the repaired area. Completing tile repairs typically takes less time than repairing a wood floor, or even a composite flooring surface. It is important to keep several pieces of tile left over from your installation for these repair needs. 

Style. As always, style counts, and tile is no exception to that rule. Tile has a finish and style to adapt to any décor; from southwest to cosmopolitan, there is a color and a texture to fit every need. There is an unlimited variety to tile, from bright vibrant colors to muted tones and everything in between, and a brief trip to any tile house or home improvement retailer will prove this point. While colors and textures can vary greatly between manufacturers, virtually any combination of color and texture can be found on today's market. 

Easy Installation. Generally speaking, the installation process for ceramic tile floors is a project easily completed by the average do-it-yourselfer. The basic procedure involves prepping the area, gauging the space, installing the tile, and grouting finished the project. If done correctly, a DIY'er should be able to effectively gauge and lay approximately 150 square feet of space in a day. While this should be used as a gauge for time budget reasons, everyone’s pace is different and it’s important to keep a realistic pace when tackling any potential projects. 

Design Flexibility. Thanks to the variety of sizing options of ceramic tiles, design flexibility is drastically improved. You can opt for smaller 6" x 6" tiles, all the way up to the 24" x 24", as well as the squaring options, such as "brick and block" or "Flemish" style joints. All these choices add to the design characteristics that are perfect for your application. 

Capital Improvement. In many cases, adding a tile floor to your home will increase its potential resale value tremendously. Potential buyers will certainly take notice of a well installed and designed tile floor. With its attractive style and impressive presentation, a good tile floor can add thousands of dollars in potential value to prospective customers. 


Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Renovating old Terracotta Tiles at a Coach House

This Terracotta Tiled floor was in an old Coach House in Shepperton that had been subject to building renovations for over 2 years. Prior to this, it was used as a motor garage and as a school before that so as you can see from the photograph below it had seem extensive wear and tear and was now in need of full restoration.

Deep Cleaning Terracotta Tiles

To remove the large build-up of soiI and dirt the tiles were cleaned using a using a strong solution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which was left to soak into the tile before being scrubbed in with a black pad fitted to a rotary machine. The process was repeated a number of times and a stiff hand brush used along the grout lines to get the grout clean.


Following this we spot treated the areas with paint and oil marks with Tile Doctor Remove and Go which is a strong coatings remover assisted with a steam cleaner to help release the oil from the pores of the tile and bring it to the surface. Once happy with the general condition of the Terracotta tile it was given a thorough rinse with fresh water to remove any remaining cleaning product and neutralise the floor before the sealing. We use a wet and dry vacuum to quickly remove liquids from the floor it also speeds up the drying process.

Sealing Terracotta Tile

We allowed the floor 72 hours to dry due to the porosity of the Terracotta and then returned to re-seal it using nine coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go. Seal and Go is a water based sealer that doesn’t give off an odour when it’s drying and also offers durable stain protection together with a low sheen finish which really enhances the natural colour of the tile.


The work took two days and I think you will agree the floor has had a huge improvement in appearance. If you have a similar floor do get in touch, I cover Shepperton and the surrounding areas outside of that Tile Doctor can put you in touch with your local representative.




Source: Expert Terracotta  Tile Cleaning advice website

Preparing a Worksite for Ceramic Tile Installation

Preparation for a tile floor is as important as any step in the tiling process. Taking extra care in the preparation process can save you time, material and aggravation, so follow these guidelines closely. The first steps are to insure the substrate is appropriate for the application. Taking these steps will not only insure the quality of your work, but also guarantee that your flooring will remain in place and free from stress cracks for as long as possible. 

In some cases, screeding - a procedure that uses a very dense cement mixture - is spread to level a floor. While this is not a procedure often tackled by the non-professional with care and patience, the finished result can be truly amazing. The next step in preparing for a tile floor is to gauge or lay out the planned flooring area. During this process, it is important to take into consideration any obstacles you may encounter during the installation. These obstacles may include standpipes, drains, doorways, electrical receptacles or floor vents. When preparing for a tile job, it is best to think forward to these potential scenarios and know what to do when they arise. 

Consider Substrate Material. When considering an appropriate subfloor or substrate, it's imperative to consider a few factors. Introducing a cement board or hardi-backer style substrate may raise the level of your floor by up to a half inch. Once that is added to the quarter inch height of the adhesive and the quarter inch of the tile itself, you have now increased the height by nearly an inch. This may be a factor when considering door clearance, or thresholds for crossings into other rooms. When considering height increases in bathrooms, an extended drain pipe may need to be installed in certain circumstances to insure proper connection and sealing to prevent leakage.

In applications where height restrictions prevent cement board, thinner materials are available; lauan or composite substrates offer an equally strong bonding agent and are only around 1/8" inch thick. Both these substrates are applied approximately the same way: drywall screws are applied to all four corners of the board, secured tightly, and countersunk appropriately to ensure levelness throughout. This procedure should be followed for the entire flooring area, and seams should overlap evenly over plywood joints. This is done to ensure that no tile is left in the middle of a gap, where stress and traffic can cause the tile to break. 

Screeding. Screeding is a procedure most commonly associated with commercial applications, yet in recent years, it has found usage in homes across the country. It is best used in a scenario where a high spot is present and the rest of the floor must be brought up to that high spot to ensure levelness.

1. Using a moist mixture of sand, Portland cement and lime, rake together everything in a large pan and spray lightly with a hose. Once the mix is sufficiently moist enough to clump in your hand and stay together, you are ready to spread the mixture across your floor. 
   
2. From the low spot, create a level “ribbon” of sand the length of one wall and even with the high spot. Create another ribbon on the opposite wall, level with the high spot. The two ribbons should now be level to each other. You will use these ribbons in conjunction with a large straight edge to evenly distribute the rest of the mixture across the open floor space. 
   
3. As you make your way across the open area, using a flat trowel, firmly trowel the screeded area to satin finish and inspect the areas for cavities. If you find a cavity, take a fistful of the screed mixture, and forcibly throw it directly on top of the affected area. Pull your straight edge over the area, and trowel to a smooth finish. 
   
4. Once you have screeded the entire area, let the mixture sit overnight to ensure a solid working surface that you will be able to walk and work on.

Laying Out the Tile. Gauging an area, or creating a layout, requires a certain amount of patience and savvy. 

1. Beginning with the center of the main entrance to the room, snap a straight chalk line through to the back of the room. Use a square to make sure the line is perpendicular to the door. 
   
2. Determine the center of the chalk line you just laid. Snap another straight line again, perpendicular to the line already present. This is your guideline, a simple gauge to determine if the floor you are laying is straight. 
   
3. Start laying out dry tile from the main door into the room, so that a full row of tiles is visible when you enter the room. Starting from the door, lay tiles along the first line you snapped. Use a spacer in between each tile to ensure consistent joints between tiles. You can use the side of another tile or another uniform object as a spacer. 
   
4. Once you reach the opposite end of the room and can no longer fit a full tile, lay a long 1” thick piece of wood perpendicular to the row of tiles, and tack it in place with a screw gun. Continue laying tiles next to this board, moving across the room in both directions. 
   
5. Examine the amount of un-tiled space left on the sides of the room, and determine how much you need to shift the rows so that you have equal borders on both sides of the room. Snap a new center line based on this measurement. The intersection of the new line and the board will be your new starting point for installing the tile. The original snapped line can be disregarded. 
   
6. Examine the area for obstacles. If drain pipes are located in the area, make note of their location in the courses, and determine if an adjustment in the layout needs to be made. 
   
7. Factor in any space, such as a closet or open cabinet bottom, that may need to be tiled. These can be tricky cuts, so prepare for them early to insure a timely and easy installation further down the line.

Now that you have taken the time to gauge, lay out and prepare your flooring area for installation, you can rest assured that your project will move smoothly towards completion. Should any questions arise, refer to your local home improvement store professionals. Be sure to inspect any beams or hardwood subfloors prior to installing any type of substrate. If the removal of any prior flooring is necessary, make certain that every element of that previous floor is fully removed and disposed of properly.




Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Seal Ceramic Tile Art and Make a Homemade Sealer

You can get ceramic tile with art already on it, but you can also create your own works of ceramic tile art. The main problem you'll find with ceramic tile art is that the paint can fade, wear off or simply run. This, of course, is if you do not take the time to seal the ceramic tile. Sealing ceramic tile art seems as if it should be easy, but you cannot seal it with the materials you find in stores for sealing ceramic. These chemicals include ingredients that are great to seal ceramic but will damage the artwork. Ceramic tiles are baked in a kiln in order to get the glazed look, but painted artwork does not have the same finish. The article that follows will show you not only how to seal ceramic tile art correctly but how to make your own sealer.

What you'll need

• Mixing bowl
• Linseed oil
• Alcohol
• Cotton swabs
• Clean rags
• Soft natural paintbrush

Step 1 – Make Sure the Art Is Dry

Before you even begin mixing up your home brew of ceramic tile art sealer, you need to make sure that the art is completely dry. If you try to apply the sealer to paint that is not completely dry, it will run or be wiped off the tile. It takes longer for paint to dry on ceramic tile than on most common painting surfaces, so take that into consideration. You also need to consider the humidity of the area you are working in. High levels of moisture will cause the paint not to set. Whatever the drying time is for the paint you are using, always double and even triple it to be certain it is set.

Step 2 – Using Alcohol

Alcohol is fast drying and can be used to set the paint on the ceramic tile just prior to applying the sealer. Alcohol can, however, damage paint, so it is important to test the alcohol on a very small area of the paint. Use a cotton swab to do this. If the paint dissolves, then use the alcohol very carefully. Otherwise, you can paint it on the tile as you would any other paint or sealer. Some kinds of paint can come off when you scrub it with alcohol. Prevent this by soaking a rag in alcohol and draping it over the tile. After several seconds, you can carefully remove the rag. The alcohol will dry in seconds and, in the process, will set and protect the paint.

Step 3 – Linseed oil

This type of oil is very safe on most paint products and also safe to use on glazed ceramic tile. Once the alcohol has dried, paint it on the tile over the art. Use a clean rag to dab up the oil but never scrub or wipe it off.

Step 4 – Make a Sealer

If this is a hobby you do often, then mixing your own sealer will prove beneficial. In a mixing bowl, pour in four parts of linseed oil. Thin the oil out with one part alcohol.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Cleaning Edwardian Tiles in a London Hallway

This Edwardian period tiled hallway floor at a house in Teddington, Middlesex was in need of a deep clean and removal of paint marks following a year of building work.

Cleaning Edwardian Tiles

Initially the floor was cleaned using a medium dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which is a strong alkaline cleaning agent; it’s applied with a mop and left it to soak into the floor for five minutes before being scrubbed into the tile with a rotary scrubbing machine fitted with a scrubbing pad. Pro-Clean was also used along the grout joints but scrubbed in with stiff brush by hand. The soil was then washed off and removed with a wet vacuum. Whilst this process did clean up the tile and grout it didn’t remove the paint marks so the next step was to target those area’s with Tile Doctor Remove and Go which is a coatings remover and as its name suggests is good at removing pretty much anything. Once the floor was clean it was thoroughly washed down with clean water partly to remove any further soil but also to remove any trace of cleaning products before sealing, again the wet vacuum was used to remove the liquids and get the floor as dry as possible before leaving for the day.

Sealing Victorian Tiles

The next day the floor had dried so I proceeded to seal the tile with four coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which is the recommended sealer for Victorian Tile, providing good stain protection whilst adding a nice sheen to the surface bringing out the colour in the tile.


We service Teddington and the surrounding areas for all types of natural and man-made stone flooring, please get in touch for a free quotation.



Source: Help Cleaning Victorian and Edwardian floor tiles

Ceramic Tile Repair: How to Fill in a Chipped Tile

Ceramic tile repair is entirely possible for a do-it-yourselfer and can easily be done by following these steps:

What you'll need
Water and detergent
Small brush
Sealer
Finish paint
Marine epoxy

Step 1 - Clean and Rinse

Clean the chipped area with detergent and water and rinse with a blow dryer for about 15 minutes.

Step 2 - Apply Primer

Use a very small brush and apply a tiny amount of primer/sealer to the chip using caution so it doesn’t puddle or go on the surface. Allow the sealer to dry for at least 2 hours.

Step 3 - Apply Finish Paint

Apply a small amount of finish paint to the chipped area in the same manner you applied the primer/sealer. Use the same caution as you did in Step 3. If you see a color difference between the paint and the chip, apply another coat of paint. Allow it to dry for 24 hours.

Step 4 - Apply Marine Epoxy

Mix your marine epoxy according to the manufacturer’s directions. Dab the epoxy in small amounts with a toothpick into the chip. Add enough epoxy so that its surface is level with the surface of your tile. While allowing the marine epoxy time to dry, be sure you prevent the epoxy from being touched or disturbed.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Cleaning Dirty Quarry Tiled Floors

We were asked to work our magic on these dirty Quarry tiles at a residence in the historic town of Hitchin. The tiles had been sealed on a number of occasions but had not been deep cleaned beforehand which effectively trapped the dirt under the sealer making it difficult to get clean.

Stripping Quarry Tiles

To get them clean the coatings on the surface of the Quarry tile had to be stripped off back to the original surface. To do this we mixed a dilution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go 50/50 with NanoTech UltraClean and applied it to the floor leaving it to soak in to the tile for around 20 minutes before scrubbing it in with a wire brush. Remove and Go is as its name suggests is a coatings remover which is safe to use on Tile and Stone and is designed to remove most products from, this is assisted by the addition of NanoTech UltraClean which adds tiny abrasive particles into the solution making it more effective. The floor was then scrubbed using a rotary machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad and the grout lines scrubbed by hand using a stiff brush. The floor was then rinsed with water which was removed using a wet vacuum. The process was then repeated until we were happy that the tile and grout was clean and that the old sealer had been removed, again the floor down and being the last time washed down thoroughly as traces of cleaning products can upset sealers later on.

Sealing Quarry Tiles

Once happy with the floor and it had time to dry off it was sealed with four coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go sealer adds a nice sheen to the floor as well as adding long term stain protection; needless to say the customer was very happy with the results.






Source: Expert Quarry Tile Cleaning

Ceramic Tile Repair: How to Fill in a Chipped Tile

Ceramic tile repair is entirely possible for a do-it-yourselfer and can easily be done by following these steps:

What you'll need

• Water and detergent
• Small brush
• Sealer
• Finish paint
• Marine epoxy

Step 1 - Clean and Rinse

Clean the chipped area with detergent and water and rinse with a blow dryer for about 15 minutes.

Step 2 - Apply Primer

Use a very small brush and apply a tiny amount of primer/sealer to the chip using caution so it doesn’t puddle or go on the surface. Allow the sealer to dry for at least 2 hours.

Step 3 - Apply Finish Paint

Apply a small amount of finish paint to the chipped area in the same manner you applied the primer/sealer. Use the same caution as you did in Step 3. If you see a color difference between the paint and the chip, apply another coat of paint. Allow it to dry for 24 hours.

Step 4 - Apply Marine Epoxy

Mix your marine epoxy according to the manufacturer’s directions. Dab the epoxy in small amounts with a toothpick into the chip. Add enough epoxy so that its surface is level with the surface of your tile. While allowing the marine epoxy time to dry, be sure you prevent the epoxy from being touched or disturbed.

Source; www.DoItYourself.com