Resolving Disputes between Tilers and Suppliers

This honed Travertine tiled floor was newly laid by a professional tiler in South Lancaster, unfortunately however the tiler mistook some white lines in the stone as resin post installation and tried very hard to remove them damaging the finish of the stone (it’s quite common for new stone to have this issue). The white marks turned out be in the stone itself and not on the surface, to complicate things further the Travertine had been laid onto electric under floor heating so it would have been tricky to lift and replace the tiles without compromising the expensive heating matts placed underneath the stone. The customer was left in a dilemma as the suppliers of the stone were blaming the tiler and the tiler the supplier, the only option was to call out Tile Doctor. On inspection and after conducting two cleaning tests we managed to get a result with our burnishing system with no white lines showing after the Travertine had dried out.

Stripping and Re-Polishing Travertine

To get the Travertine looking new again we had to strip back the surface of the tile using a set of Diamond Encrusted burnishing pads fitted to a rotary machine. You start with a coarse stripper pad with water to strip back the surface and then move onto the finer pads to polish the floor. We also use some grinding discs to remove scratches left behind by the kitchen fitters who were clumsy when fitting the kitchen. Once I was happy that all the problems had been resolved with the Travertine tile we resealed it using two coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow to get a nice overall finish for the floor. Colour grow is a great sealer to use on natural stone as now only will it offer good stain protection it brings out the colours in the stone.



Source: Travertine tile problems resolved

Commercial Tile Cleaning Services

The Ceramic tiles with dark grout were installed in a Bedford Coffee Shop where we have a regular contract to deep clean the tile and grout, whilst we appreciate the regular work you do have to work out of hours to minimise impact to trade. It’s worth noting that many commercial tiling installations do avoid white grout as it can get dirty quite quickly and will be difficult to clean if badly stained, not that that’s a problem for Tile Doctor as we have a solution for most problems.

Cleaning Ceramic Floor Tiles

This was a general maintenance clean so a dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean was applied to the floor and left to soak in for 20 minutes or so before giving the floor a thorough clean using a Rotovac machine which applies and removes water at high pressure to remove the dirt and rinse the floor. Once this was done we took the opportunity to apply more Pro-Clean to the grout and hand scrubbed along the grout lines using a stiff brush to ensure the black grout was clean.



 Ceramic tiles don’t normally need a sealer so once all the tile and grout was clean and was dry we were done.




Source: National Contract Tile Cleaning Service

Cleanly Remove Black Slate Tiles

If your remodeling plans for a bathroom include removing black slate tiles, you will want to salvage them because they are one of the more expensive tiles you can install in a bathroom. If you have no plans to use them again, they can be sold to handymen and other contractors. It is possible to remove black slate tiles safely and cleanly, and the following article will show you how.

What you'll need

• Grout saw
• Metal putty knife
• Plastic putty knife
• Painters tape
• Small rubber mallet
• Adhesive remover
• Utility knife
• Clean rags

Step 1 – Remove the Metal Cap

Black slate tiles can be thicker than other tiles, which will make the tiled wall have a thick edge. Many people will install a metal strip, the same width as the thickness of the tile, to cap the edge. This strip is adhered to the tile using caulk. Slide the utility knife between the strip and the tile and then cut the caulk. Insert the metal putty knife and then pry the strip away from the edge of the tile. Slide the putty knife along the length as you pry.

Step 2 – Grout Removal

The grout is applied between the spaces of the tile. When the grout dries, it is like concrete. In order to remove black slate tiles cleanly, you need to remove the grout. Use the grout saw to begin slicing the grout as close to the edges of the tile as possible. Once the grout is removed, you can start to remove the tiles from wall.

Step 3 – Remove the Black Slate Tiles

Black slate tiles can be very fragile. To protect them, place painter’s tape over each tile to form an “X.” This will help to keep the vibrations down to a minimum so the tiles do not break. Once the tape is applied, you can start removing the tile. Begin at the bare edge of the tiles where you removed the metal strip. Place the blade of the putty knife at a slight angle against the edge of the tile and then gently tap the handle. This will lodge the blade under the tile; keep tapping until most of the blade is under the tile. Pull up on the putty knife to pry the tile from the cement backer board. Repeat for each tile until they are all removed.

Step 4 – Cleaning the Tile

Adhesive will be left on the underside of the tile. This is easily cleaned off the tiles. Apply adhesive remover to a clean rag and then wipe it on the bottom of the black slate tiles. Allow the remover to work for several minutes. Use the plastic putty knife to scrape away the adhesive. For small areas, use the rag with adhesive remover to buff the tiles.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

This Marble tiled floor is located in the pantry of the historical Kinross House which is a late 17th-century country house overlooking Loch Leven that was built by the architect Sir William Bruce as his own home in 1686. You can see from the photograph the floor was in quite a state and given the history it was an honour to be asked to work on the floor.

Marble Tile Cleaning and Polishing

We brushed out the floor to remove all the loose debris and then proceeded to restore the floor using a set of diamond encrusted burnishing pads which fit a rotary buffing machine. The burnishing process is designed to grind out dirt in the stone and smooth /polish the floor, you start with a course pad and work your way through the four pad set until you get to the finer polishing pad. This may sounds simple but it does take time to complete.

Sealing Marble Tiles

Once the floor was polished we applied a couple of coats of Tile Doctor Pro-Seal which is a non-sheen premium sealer recommended for natural stone that provided the natural matte look the client was after and will protect the Marble and keep the floor looking good.



Source: Marble Restoration Advice and Tips

Marble Tile Maintenance

This Tumbled Marble mosaic wet room floor was installed in a house in London, SE1 four years before prior and was now looking a little tired. This was mostly caused by a build-up of Limescale which had then become grimy.

Stripping a Tumbled Marble Floor

To treat the Limescale I used Tile Doctor Grout Clean Up which managed to remove most of the scale and to remove the remainder I steamed the tiles using an Earlex Steamer and carefully scraped any remaining Limescale residue away with a Stanley window scraper. To restore the marble itself I used Tile Doctor burnishing pads to re-polish the tiles using 17" pads on the main area and 8" pads on a hand-held Clarke polishing machine in the corners. These diamond encrusted pads come in a number of different colours and are applied one after another with each pad being a finer grade than the last. After thoroughly rinsing the stone again and removing the waste water with a wet vacuum. As the marble was naturally fast drying I used an Earlex heat gun to speed dry the floor and repeated this after lunch to ensure the floor was entirely dry before sealing.

Sealing Tumbled-Marble Tiles

Once the Marble tiles were dry I started to seal them using two coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow sealer which is a great choice for natural stone as it enhances the natural colours in the tile as well as providing stain protection.


As the photographs show the results were very good and the customer was highly delighted.




Source: Marble Tile issues resolved

Expert Quarry Tile Cleaning

A while ago I was asked to quote to clean up an old quarry tiled floor in a converted barn in Ashtead. Whilst I was there I carried out a test patch for the lady to show what the results would be; she had said that if she wasn't satisfied she was going to replace the floor so she must have met her expectations as a week later we were given the go ahead to carry out the work.

Cleaning Hallway Quarry Tiles

Fortunately for us they had recently removed the old kitchen and scheduled us after to clean the quarry tiles before completing the decorating and refitting a new kitchen. We cleaned the tiles using a mixture of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean diluted 1:4 parts with water and Nanotech Ultraclean which adds tiny abrasive particles into the cleaning solution. Normally I would work this into the floor using a black scrubbing pad however the floor was very uneven so I used a medium nylon brush on my rotary machine instead, this had the added advantage of reaching into the grout as well. I should mention we thoroughly rinsed the floor as we went along using a wet vacuum to remove the soiled solution. It took two of us two days to scrub the areas that had to be done and we had a blower running to help dry out the floor.

Sealing Hallway Quarry Tiles

We returned three days later and carried out moisture test to ensure the floors were dry and ready to be sealed. The Quarry tiles were then sealed them with five coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is an impregnating sealer that reaches into the pores of the tile and lifts the natural colours. The owner was extremely happy with the floor and couldn’t wait to have her new kitchen installed to see how it would look.






Source: Old Quarry tile restoration

How to Lay and Seal Saltillo Tile Floors

Saltillo tile comes from a place in Mexico of the same name. It is similar to terra cotta and is made entirely from natural clay which provides a rustic and cozy appearance to a home. Saltillo tile is relatively expensive compared to other kinds of tile, but it is also one of the most durable and attractive. Laying and sealing this type of floor is very similar to working with many other types of tile such as slate or ceramic. If you want a rustic and natural touch to a bathroom, kitchen or utility room, Saltillo tile is ideal.

What you'll need

• Saltillo tile
• Saltillo grout
• Oil-based tile sealant
• Wet saw
• Trowel
• Thinset mortar
• Chalk
• Bucket
• Stirring rod
• Mop
• Grout float
• Sponge

Step 1 – Prepare the Floor

It is very important that the floor is properly prepared before you start laying the tiles. The surface should be completely flat and smooth. If there is any damage in the floor such as cracks or holes, these will need to be sealed up and smoothed down before continuing. Make sure that the floor is clean before proceeding to Step 2.

Step 2 – Lay the First Tile

Determine the layout of the tiles. You may want to start from a corner of the room to minimize the requirement to cut the tiles. Alternatively, you may want to start at the centre of the room. Use chalk to mark the lines where you are going to install the first tiles. When the floor is prepared, mix the thinset mortar in a bucket as directed to by the manufacturer. Spread a quarter inch layer of mortar onto an area of the floor, working in one small area at a time. Place a thin layer of the mortar onto the back of the tile and then put it in place, twisting it around slightly so that it sticks firmly in place.

Step 3 – Continue Laying the Tiles

Apply enough mortar each time to lay 4 tiles. Continue laying the tiles, leaving the same size spaces between them. You can use tile spacers if you prefer, though this should not be necessary if you want to achieve the more rustic look that Saltillo is famous for. Cut the tiles as needed using the wet saw. Once finished, allow the installation to dry over night before continuing.

Step 4 – Apply Sealer

Mix an oil-based sealer product as directed to by the manufacturer’s instructions. Use a clean mop to cover the floor thoroughly with the sealant. Allow this to dry as directed by the instructions. In exactly the same manner, apply a second coat once the first is dry.

Step 5 – Apply Grout

Mix the grout as directed on the product packaging. Pack the grout tightly into the joints between the tiles by using a rubber float. Be sure to wipe away any excess using a damp sponge.

Step 6 – Apply a Final Sealer

Mop a final coat of sealant over the entire surface of the floor. Leave this at least several hours to dry before using the floor.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Add River Rock Tile to Your Shower Floor

Adding a river rock tile floor to your shower will give the look and feel of a natural stone floor. River rock tile shower floors can also compliment other aspects of the bathroom. River rock tiles come in different color schemes, most of them being neutral. Before tackling this project, it is best to practice tiling and grouting on a different surface. The tools and instructions to take on this job are listed below.

What you'll need

• Thinset
• Mortar
• Putty knife
• Bucket
• Trowel
• Scoop
• Interlocking mesh
• Sealant
• Stiff bristled brush
• Sponge
• River rock tiles

Step 1 – Setting the Thinset

Spread the thinset adhesive all across the concrete base. The thinset will set the tiles in a thin layer of mortar. It is best to have a good quality thinset. The right thinset adhesive will assist with avoiding mishaps in the future. Spread the thinset starting in the back corner of the shower and working in small increments. Increments of 3 square feet should do the trick. This will keep you from spreading more thinset than is needed before it dries. The thinset will usually dry in about 10 or 15 minutes. Scoop the thinset from the bucket onto the floor of the shower. Spread it with a 1/4 inch notched trowel. The trowel should be held at a 45 degree angle with the notched side down. Drag the trowel across the thinset in order to corm rows of ridges that will be neat.

Step 2 – Adding the River Rock Tiles

The river rock tiles need to now be placed on the thinset. You can usually purchase the tiles mounted on sheets of interlocking mesh. They are 12 inch by 12 inch sheets. These are a plus because the stones are already spaced the way the need to be. This makes it faster to set the tiles and you can easily see the patterns across all of the tiles. You can get these tiles in a wide array of colors. Some of the tiles even mimic the look of a river bed. Others come in gray monotones, brown, black or white. You can cut the backing on the tiles to make shapes or patterns by mixing them. Another option when adding the river rock tiles is to use individual stones. This is more time consuming but gives you more creative options. 

Step 3 – Sealing, Grouting and Sealing Again

Use a penetrating sealer to seal the natural stones. The stones need to be covered in grout. Press the grout down in between the stones. Give it about 30 minutes to dry. You can use a brush with stiff bristles to remove the excess grout. Using a clean damp sponge, remove all of the grout that remains on the surface of the tiles. Lastly, apply the second and last coat of the penetrating sealant.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Tips for Laying Granite Floor Tiles

Granite floor tiles are beautiful and durable. They can also be expensive. You can reduce your costs by installing the tiles yourself.

Measuring the Area

Use a measuring tape to determine the length and width of the space that you will be flooring. Multiply the two measurements together to find the amount of space that requires tiles.

Determining the Amount of Materials Required

Granite floor tiles are available in various sizes. The typical size is one foot by one foot. Divide the space you determined by one tile in order to determine howmany tiles you will need. Check the grout container for the amount you will need. Add about 15 percent to your tile and grout totals for any wastage.

Marking the Area

Use a chalkline to mark the center of the space to be covered. Mark the middle of the floor from one wall to the wall on the other side of the space. Continue with the other two walls. The intersection of the lines is the mark for beginning the installation.

Applying the Mortar

Use a trowel to apply the mortar to the beginning spot. Work in small areas at a time. Lay the tiles on the mortar. Press them into the adhesive to be sure they are sitting level. Place spacers between them. Continue working outward from the center of the space until the entire floor has been covered. Use a tile cutter for any spaces that require smaller tile pieces. Allow the floor about a day to dry completely.

Grouting the Tiles

Remove the spacers from between the tiles. Apply the grout to the floor with a grout float. Be sure to push the grout into all of the spaces between the tiles. Work in small areas. Wipe any excess grout from the surface of the tiles with a damp sponge. Allow the grout about a day to dry. Wipe away any grout that still remains with a damp sponge.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Application of Anti-Slip in Porcelain Tiles

Last week we were asked to carry out a demonstration of our AntiSlip Treatment for a lady in Ashtead Surrey. She has white shiny Porcelain tiles laid on a patio area and when they get wet they are really slippery and dangerous and she was especially concerned about young children hurting themselves. We carried out a test patch for her and asked her to see if she could slip, not only did she try, but her gran and mother-in-law also tried and were extremely impressed. I left her with our quotation so she could discuss it with her husband. The next day I received a call asking me to go ahead and carry out the works.

Applying the Anti-Slip Solution

When applying this treatment it is vital that you follow all the guidelines and times for the different types of stone. It is a 3 stage application, the first is the primer which is mixed 4 : 1 which we scrubbed into small areas of about 6m2 at a time, when scrubbing we used a brush head on our rotary scrubbing machine which has the added advantage of cleaning the tiles.


After about 5 minutes of scrubbing using a scrubbing pad we then vacuumed it all and left the tiles to dry and because we were outside in the sun it didn't take long to dry. The next stage is to apply the Antislip treatment and for this we used a flat mop and for these type of tiles we needed to leave it to dwell for between 3 and 5 minutes, but we had to make sure that it did not dry in. After the dwell time the 3rd stage is to scrub in another solution of the primer, but this time it locks in the Antislip. When you are scrubbing this stage you can feel the treatment working. Once we have completed this stage we vacuum it all up then rinse the area with fresh water to remove any residues.


The complete area was around 50m2 and luckily the treatment package covered this area. In all the application took two of us around five hours to complete and after clearing our equipment away we then put all the garden furniture back in place. We returned the next day because the customer also asked us to clean their driveway and the patio area was wet because of rain, but it was great to walk on and I did not slip at all.


The customer was really happy, because if the treatment hadn't worked her only other option would have been to rip up the tiles and replace them at a cost of thousands and to make things even better for her, this treatment will last around 4 years before she needs to have it re-applied.



Source: Anti-Slip Tile Maintenance Problems Solved

Deep cleaning etched Anti-Slip tiles

You may recall a Limestone job I did recently at a Manchester country club in Hale. This Anti-Slip porcelain floor was installed at the same location in the passageway on route to the toilets and in the toilets themselves. Slips and falls can be a huge problem for buildings with public areas and so tiles which have been etched to make a normally smooth surface rough make perfect sense, the downside of course is that those rough surfaces trap dirt and are difficult to clean. Tile Doctor have a chemical Anti-Slip alternative that only activates when the tile get wet that doesn't require the tile to be etched but it does need to re-applied every few years.

Cleaning Anti Slip Floor Tiles

The floor tiled need a deep clean to bring out the ingrained dirt so we applied a strong solution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean using two parts water to one part Pro-Clean and left it to soak into the tile for twenty minutes. The solution was then scrubbed into the tile using a rotary machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad. You could see the dirt coming out the pores of the tile and the resultant soiled solution was removed using a wet vacuum before washing the tiles down with clean water.


Including the ladies, gents and hallway there was a lot of floor area to cover and some of the stubborn areas had to be re-treated so it was a long job but I think you will agree the floor now looks great.




Source: Anti-Slip tile maintenance problems solved

Common Pitfalls to Avoid When Installing Travertine Tile Floors

Travertine tile floors can offer advantages not found in other types of flooring, such as a more unique appearance and a more secure footing than you may find with ceramic tile. But in the installation of this tile you should be aware of common pitfalls you're likely to encounter if you're not aware of them.

Spreading Glue

In spreading the thinset glue that is typically used for adherence of this tile, avoid using any trowel except one with ½ inch teeth. Using any other trowel will result in applying too much glue that could ooze up from beneath the tile. Too little glue could inhibit the tile from adhering properly to the floor.

Choosing the Right Grout

When your tile has been glued to the floor and has dried, you'll need to use the proper grout to spread on it. A common mistake made in choosing grout is in assuming that there is a single, universal grout that should be used. Grout should be chosen according to the color that will match your tile, and the grout should be sanded.

Choosing the Right Sealer

Travertine tile, because it is porous, is easily stained by common household products that may be spilled on it. Choosing the wrong sealer will allow products such as coffee and wine to stain your tile, even after it is sealed.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Naturally Clean a Travertine Tile Shower

A travertine tile shower can make an attractive addition to any bathroom, but can be somewhat tricky to clean without the proper tools. Fortunately, with a few natural cleaning products, you can make your travertine tile shower sparkle like new in no time.

What you'll need

• All-natural liquid soap
• Warm water
• Clean empty spray bottle
• Sponge
• Washcloth
• Shower-head

Step 1 - Produce your Travetine-Safe Cleaning Solution

Before the cleaning can commence, you'll need to take a few moments to produce a natural, travertine-safe cleaning solution. Begin by combining an all-natural liquid soap with warm water in a clean empty spray bottle. Follow up by securely sealing the bottle and shaking it until your newly formed cleaner begins to sud.

Step 2 - Apply Your Cleaning Solution

Now that your cleaning solution has taken shape, use your shower-head to give your travertine tile shower a thorough water rinsing before proceeding to dry it with a clean cloth. Next, apply your homemade cleaning solution to the area you wish to clean and wipe it down with a sponge or washcloth using broad circular motions.

Step 3 - Rinse Your Shower

Once your shower has been successfully cleaned, use your shower-head to rinse away any remaining traces of your cleaning solution. Any caked-on soap stands to lead to the formation of mold and/mildew, so take care to be thorough when performing this step.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Measure for Installing Travertine Tile Floors

Travertine tile floors are made from mineral stone materials, specifically marble. A lot of people use this type of flooring for their shower, kitchen and deck. Travertine tile floors were actually used as far back as the Roman era, which has dubbed this flooring as very long lasting and durable. Here is how to measure for installing travertine tile floors.

What you'll need

• Measuring Tape
• Calculator

Step 1 – Determine the Floor Area

Decide on which area of the floor you are going to install the Travertine tile. Have your measurements in square inches to achieve an accurate number. For example, if you are going to tile a square bathroom and one side measures 60 inches, multiply this number by itself to get 3,600 square inches of space that must be tiled. To get the area you simply multiply the length and width of the place.

Step 2 – Determine the Area of One Tile

Once you have chosen your travertine tile, calculate its area. Just like with the computation above, multiply the length and width.  For example, if you get a 14-inch square tile, it will have an area of 196 square inches.

Step 3 – Calculating How Many Tiles You Ned

The last step will be to divide the room’s floor area by the tile’s area. In this case, it is 3,600 square inches by 196 square inches, which is equal to 18.37 square inches. Round it up to the nearest whole number and you get 19 pieces. Nonetheless, it would be prudent to add 10% more onto the number you get to account for breakages during installation.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Subway Tile Installation Tips

The conventional wall tiles are often called subway tile because of their appearance. They often used in decorating houses. The most common size used is 3-by-6 inch tiles. Many designers recommend subway tiles on the walls and floors, and they tend to always be popular. The installation of subway tiles is simple. Here are a few important tips:

Preparing

The adhesive used on these tiles can stick to all types of surfaces. Before installing the tiles, the surface should be cleaned and made smooth and dry so that it can take the weight of the tiles. You can apply a backer board or cement-fiber board on the wall to be tiled so that the surface is level and flat. Use screws to fix the board.

Layout

It is better to plan the layout of tiles prior to fixing them. Begin attaching tiles from the middle of the area and then proceed outwards. Mark a horizontal line at the center of the area. Align the edges of the tiles with the line. This will help maintain the width of tiles on the corners equal to half the width of tiles on both sides. In the same way, draw the vertical line. Start fixing tiles closest to the intersection of both lines. Use the recommended adhesive. Keep the first row of tiles nearest to the middle of the area.

Symmetry

Maintaining the symmetry is very important. The look of tiling will depend on the way the first row is set. It is better to use a level for proper alignment. You can use a support strip fixed at the base of the horizontal line to support the tiles and put plastic spacers in between them to create straight grout lines until the adhesive gets set. Fill the gout lines and clean the tiles.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Subway Tile Installation Tips

The conventional wall tiles are often called subway tile because of their appearance. They often used in decorating houses. The most common size used is 3-by-6 inch tiles. Many designers recommend subway tiles on the walls and floors, and they tend to always be popular. The installation of subway tiles is simple. Here are a few important tips:

Preparing

The adhesive used on these tiles can stick to all types of surfaces. Before installing the tiles, the surface should be cleaned and made smooth and dry so that it can take the weight of the tiles. You can apply a backer board or cement-fiber board on the wall to be tiled so that the surface is level and flat. Use screws to fix the board.

Layout

It is better to plan the layout of tiles prior to fixing them. Begin attaching tiles from the middle of the area and then proceed outwards. Mark a horizontal line at the center of the area. Align the edges of the tiles with the line. This will help maintain the width of tiles on the corners equal to half the width of tiles on both sides. In the same way, draw the vertical line. Start fixing tiles closest to the intersection of both lines. Use the recommended adhesive. Keep the first row of tiles nearest to the middle of the area.

Symmetry

Maintaining the symmetry is very important. The look of tiling will depend on the way the first row is set. It is better to use a level for proper alignment. You can use a support strip fixed at the base of the horizontal line to support the tiles and put plastic spacers in between them to create straight grout lines until the adhesive gets set. Fill the gout lines and clean the tiles.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Cleaning a Sandstone pool surround without chemicals

These Indian Sandstone floor tiles were installed around an indoor swimming pool at a magnificent residence in Oxford. As you can see from the photograph below the Sandstone was not looking its best and given its proximity to the pool care needed to be taken not to contaminate the pool with dirty water from the cleaning process or chemicals

Swimming Pool Tile Cleaning

We made a decision early on that we would not use any chemicals to clean or seal the tiles to ensure the water in the pool remained un-contaminated, we also setup a temporary barrier to stop any debris going in the pool and used a high pressure machine fitted with a flat surface head to prevent water flying everywhere.


The process worked well and you can see the difference in the photographs above however the job did take taking longer than usual to complete but the main thing was the customer was happy with the result.    




Source: Sandstone swimming pool tile cleaning

How to Hone Travertine Tile

Travertine tile floors and surfaces are sedimentary and solid natural stones that may need to grinded, honed or polished to bring back the natural beauty of the finish. This type of material is ideal for most flooring applications, as well as kitchen and table countertops. You only need simple household tools and cleaning products to get the job done safely and efficiently. You may choose to hire a professional to hone or polish your travertine tiles, but you can save lots of money if you decide to do it yourself.

Wear and tear may be evident on travertine floor and counter tiles due to age, scratches, stains and heavy foot traffic. Hone and polish the finish of travertine tiles with these simple steps.

What you'll need:

• Variable speed orbital sander
• 400-grit resin bond attachment
• 115-grit diamond resin attachment
• 220-grit carbide stone
• Sealer
• Cotton towel or rag

Step 1 – Clean the Surface Thoroughly

Use water and mild household detergent to thoroughly remove stains, dirt and other contaminants from the surface. Use a sponge or bristled brush to safely loosen and remove excess dirt.

Step 2 – Hone the Surface

Use a variable speed angle grinder with the 400-grit resin bond attachment to hone the surface of the travertine tile. Apply water to the entire surface of the tile and work the grinder on the surface on a small area at a time. Start at the edge and work your way towards the entire surface. Apply more water as needed to provide lubrication for the angle grinder attachment. Use a circular, side to side motion to efficiently polish the surface and avoid concentrating the grinder on a specific area for an extended period of time as you sand the finish. Add more water as you move on to other parts of the surface.

Step 3 – Change the Attachment

Change to a 115-grit diamond resin attachment and repeat the procedure as stated in Step 2. This attachment is less harsh than the 400-grit resin bond and will produce a smoother finish. Remember to constantly add water to the surface as you sand the travertine tile. Work with a small area at a time to produce a better result.

Step 4 – Sand the Surface with 220-grit Carbide Stone

Use a 220-grit carbide stone attachment to further polish the travertine tile. Refer to the above-mentioned steps when doing further polishing. Remember to constantly apply water over the surface as you polish the tile. Allow the entire surface to dry thoroughly.

Step 5 – Apply Sealer to the Travertine Tile

Use a soft paint brush to apply stone sealer to your travertine tiles. Adding sealer to marble or travertine tile surfaces will help protect the finish against minor cuts, scratches and stains, as well as add beauty and luster to the surface. Let dry for at least 2 to 4 hours.

It is easy to hone and restore the appearance of your travertine tiles. Keep in mind that proper safety equipment such as hand gloves and goggles are required when working with power tools.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

7 Tips for Installing Travertine Pavers on Concrete

Travertine pavers are marble pavers that can be laid on concrete. There are a lot of pavers to use, but travertine pavers are very popular and match almost every color. There are things you should know before attempting to install pavers to concrete, so here are some tips on installing travertine pavers on concrete.

Tip 1: Having the Concrete Ready

Before you even think about laying down your travertine pavers you have to have your concrete ready for them. All loose pieces of concrete have to be swept off the concrete so it's completely smooth. Once done, bleach that is used for outdoors has to be applied so that any mildew or mold on the concrete is killed.

Tip 2: Patch All Holes That Are In the Concrete

All the tiny or large holes seen in the concrete have to be patched with a concrete patching product. The kinds of products you need are available at the local hardware store. The one good thing about the patching products is they are better than normal concrete. Patching products have a much better adhesion and bonds much better.

Tip 3: Layout Dry to Make Your Design

Place your travertine pavers on the concrete and decide on a pattern by moving the pieces around. This allows you to find out if any of your travertine pavers have to be cut to fit into the concrete. Measure and mark the pavers to indicate where cuts will be needed.

Tip 4: Preparing the Mortar

As you will be working outdoors it is best that you mix your mortar in a place that will hold the entire bag. A wheelbarrow is a great item to use for mixing the mortar. Using the entire bag is good as it saves you trying to guess how much mortar you need for doing small sections.

Tip 5: Spreading the Mortar

Once the mortar is mixed, it is time to spread it on the concrete. To spread the mortar onto the concrete you will use a trowel. When you spread the mortar onto the concrete, hold the trowel on a 45-degree angle and only spread enough mortar for 2 to 4 travertine pavers.

Tip 6: Placing the Full Travertine Pavers

When you are placing the travertine pavers use a smaller trowel to spread a small layer of mortar on the back edge so that it joins to the travertine paver beside it. This will ensure that the pavers have great adhesion to the concrete and mortar. Continue until all your full-piece pavers are down.

Tip 7: Cutting the Travertine Pavers

Now that you have laid all your whole travertine pavers it is time to cut the ones needed to finish your design. You will use a tile saw to cut the pavers on the marked line you placed on the tile earlier. Once you have cut all the pavers you need then you are ready to lay them. The cut pavers are laid the same way as the whole pavers with mortar on the back edge of the paver that will connect to the travertine pavers beside it.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Stripping and Resealing Stone tiles

Details below of a Natural Riven Stone tiled floor installed in the Kitchen of a house in Boston, Lincolnshire. The client had previously sealed this floor with a commonly available sealer and found the results unsatisfactory; the floor had a riven surface and that combined with two large dogs made cleaning was a constant burden.

Natural-Stone Tile Cleaning

The first step was to remove the existing sealer and give the floor a thorough clean; fortunately we were able to do this using a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which is a multipurpose cleaner/stripper. Pro-Clean was applied to the floor and then left to dwell for a good twenty minutes giving it time to break down the remaining sealer before being worked in using a rotary machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad. To get the grout clean we made up a further batch of Pro-Clean, this time with warm water and scrubbed it by hand into the grout lines using a stiff grout brush. The soiled cleaning solution was removed using a wet vacuum and the floor given a thorough rinse using clean water. Stubborn areas were re-treated using the same process and the floor was left to dry overnight assisted with a turbo air blower.

Sandstone Tile Sealing

The next morning we applied three coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go to the tiles with each coat taking around twenty minutes to dry. Seal and Go is an ideal sealer for natural stone flooring and being water based there are no nasty smells to worry about like most solvent based products. Seal and Go also added a nice subtle sheen to the floor and will protect the tiles for years to come.


The customer was delighted with the results.




Source: Restoration of Natural Riven Stone Floor

How to Remove Water from a Flooded Basement Cement Floor

If the basement cement floor gets flooded with water, it is important to work on it right away. The water vapor coming from the water on the cement floor can condense on the ceiling or on the walls and cause further damage, future mold problems, and other potential problems.

What you'll need

• Dehumidifier
• Water Vacuum Cleaner
• Electric Fans
• Rubber Gloves
• Respirator Mask
• Safety Goggles

 Step 1 – Preparations

Open the windows and the doors to allow the moisture to escape. Wear protective equipment and remove everything in the basement including books and metal objects that can get affected by the intense moisture. If there is a carpet on the cement floor, remove it so that the surface of the cement can be accessed and dried quickly. Every floating object on the water should be removed as well. Make sure that nothing is left behind in the room to ensure faster evaporation of water after the water has been drained.

Step 2 – Drain the Water

Locate the basement drain and remove anything that is clogging it. Most of the times, the drain will not work due to heavy clogging. If this is the case, find a container to scoop the water out and place it in a bucket. This may require more hands so call for other people for help. Throw the water away outside the house. When the water is not too deep, run the water vacuum cleaner over the surface of the cement to suck out the excess water.

Step 3 – Run a Dehumidifier and a Fan

Find an elevated spot on the basement and place the fan and the dehumidifier on top of the flat stable surface. Before turning the appliances on, make sure that the doors and windows are closed first. Plug the devices to power outlets. This may require an extension cord if the power outlet is at a remote location. Turn on the dehumidifier to speed up the drying process not only for the cement floor but for any furniture inside the basement.

Direct the fan to face the surface of the cement floor. If the floor is wide, try to get additional fans to increase the drying speed. Cement absorbs water and the only way to dry it completely is to allow it to evaporate much faster. If there are radiation heaters available in the home, make use of them in the basement as well.

Step 4 – Clean the Basement Cement Floor Surface

Chances are that the floor is covered in dirt or mud. Remove any debris left on the floor to expose the bare cement floor while the electric fans, dehumidifier, and the heaters are working. Check the drain and flush it with water to remove any clogged debris. Rinse the floor with water and direct the waste water to the drain. Scrub the floor to remove any excess dirt and rinse again. Vacuum the surface to remove any excess water and allow the appliances to dry the entire room.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Restoring a Victorian Tiled Hallway

The photograph below is from a Victorian tiled floor that we recently restored in the seaside town of Brighton. The house owner discovered the tiles under carpet and after realising what a beautiful and original feature they were decided to have them restored and so called in Tile Doctor. The tiles had been well preserved by the carpet although as you can see they were looking rather washed out and were in need of a thorough deep clean.

Cleaning Victorian Tiles

We set about cleaning the tile using Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which is a powerful alkaline cleaning product that is safe to use on tile and stone. It was applied with a mop and left it to dwell on the floor for ten minutes first in order to give it chance to soak into the tile and get to work on the dirt. It was then worked into the floor using a rotary machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad, stiff hand brushes and a substantial amount of elbow grease was used to tackle the stubborn stains and along the grout lines. The soiled water was picked up with a wet and dry vacuum and once we were happy the floor was clean it was given a thorough rinse with fresh water to remove any leftover chemical and then left to dry.

Sealing Victorian Tiles

Once the floor was dry we were able to seal it using four coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which adds a nice shine to the floor as well as providing a surface seal that will help protect the tile from stains going forward.


It was quite a transformation and well worth the effort as you can see from the photographs above.    



Source: Help Restoring an Original Victorian Tiled Hallway

Concrete Floor Restoration Options in Older Houses

Sometimes older houses need concrete floor restoration in order to make the floor look like new again. Restoring concrete floors require repairing damaged concrete and hiding the repairs using various strategies, such as stenciling, staining, or painting.

Concrete Patching

Small cracks on the floors of old houses can be fixed by patching it with a special mortar mix designed for concrete repairs. Before applying the patch, remove any loose debris on the damages and clean them thoroughly with a wire brush. Use a vacuum to remove any remaining dust or residue. Purchase a concrete patch mix. Pour the powder in a container and add water until a good consistency is achieved. Make sure that the patch is level with the concrete floor surface. Allow it to dry completely.

Concrete Injections

Cracks and joints may also be repaired using an injectable concrete repair product, such as hydraulic mortar or epoxy. Once the product is injected into the cracks, it fills in the gaps and creates a strong bond that will protect the concrete from further damage. If the holes on the cracks are too small, new holes can be drilled into them to allow the injecting device to access the inner gaps in the crack. Before applying the product, make sure to clean and remove any loose debris inside the cracks first.

Concrete Recasting

If the floor has a large extent of damage, the entire damaged area has to be demolished first. When the damaged area is removed from the floor, the damaged steel bar supports have to be replaced as well. Afterwards, the damaged area has to be cemented again with a better grade of concrete.

Staining

Staining is a great way to cover up the repaired concrete. Concrete patches and re-casted areas may be very noticeable after repair and need to be hidden. Staining is one of the best ways to restore the concrete floor and hide the repairs from public view. This method requires the use of an acid solution that will easily get absorbed in the concrete floor. When using this method, make sure to cover all surfaces connected to the floor with painter’s tape, especially the walls and the door. 

Painting and Stenciling

Painting the floor with epoxy-based paints is a good way to hide repaired areas on the floor. Use paints specifically designed for concrete floors. Stencils are ready-made patterns that can be placed on top of the floor to create elaborate designs when painting the floor. Use stencils only after staining or painting the concrete.

Sealing

After repairing, staining or painting the floor, it also needs to be sealed to ensure that it stays protected. A concrete sealer can be applied using a paint roller or a specialized sealer spray. Make sure that the floor is completely dry when doing this. Any trapped moisture can lead to further concrete damage. The sealer should also be reapplied after two years.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Seal Tumbled Marble Tiles

If you're looking for an great way to protect your tumbled marble tiles from falling victim to excess moisture, you should consider sealing them. Well-sealed tumbled marble tiles will be considerably more resistant to mold, mildew and other tile-based filth than unsealed tiles.

What you'll need

• Marble sealer
• All-natural stone cleaner
• Small paintbrush
• Nonabrasive washcloth
• Breathing mask
• Broom and dustpan
• Vacuum cleaner

Step 1 - Clean Your Tumbled Marble Tiles

Make sure to remove any dust deposits from your tiles before proceeding to seal them. Using a broom and dustpan, thoroughly sweep the tiled area until it is completely dust-free. Alternatively, this step can be performed with a vacuum cleaner that features brush attachments. Next, remove any dirt from the tiles with the aid of an all-natural stone cleaner and a nonabrasive washcloth. It's important that your stone cleaner be all-natural, as a standard stone cleaner may have a potentially dangerous chemical reaction when combined with your sealer.

Step 2 - Apply Your Sealer

With your tiles clean, it's time to apply your sealer. If you selected a spray-on sealer, spray it across the tiled area, then smooth it out with a nonabrasive washcloth or small paintbrush. If the sealer you purchased needs to be manually applied, use a small paintbrush to spread it evenly across the tiled area. Make sure to perform this step in a well-ventilated area, and, if you feel weak from the sealer fumes, wear a breathing mask. Lastly, allow the sealer to dry for the amount of time listed on its box.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com