How to Refinish Bathroom Ceramic Tile

Refinishing bathroom ceramic tile is not as hard as it looks, but careful consideration should be given, to ensure that the process is done correctly. Understand the fact that bathroom ceramic tiles are not suited for painting applications, and need to be sanded prior to refinishing. This will ensure that the paint will adhere to the surface, and prevent the occurrence of shedding, peeling or cracking paint. You also need to pre-treat the surface with acrylic latex primer, to guarantee a beautiful finish.

What you'll need

• Tile cleanser or cleaner (preferably trisodium phosphate)
• 180-grit sandpaper
• Coarse sponge
• Acrylic latex primer
• Latex paint
• Roller brush
• Latex paint brush
• Cotton rags

Step 1 – Clean the Ceramic Tiles Thoroughly

Wash the ceramic tiles with trisodium phosphate cleanser, or any type of commercially available cleaner that is suited for bathroom ceramic tiles. This will help remove any traces of soap, dirt and grease from the tile surface. Rinse the tiles after treating with the cleanser. Wet rags can be used in the rinsing process. Let dry for at least 3 hours.

Step 2 – Scour the Ceramic Tiles                                    

Use 180-grit sandpaper to chafe the surface of the ceramic tile. This will help the primer adhere firmly to the surface of the tile. Sand the surface, until coarse or slightly rough to the touch. Take time to carefully sand the surface, as this will be detrimental to the success of the project. Never apply primer to bathroom ceramic tile surfaces until the whole area has been sanded. This will help prevent peeling and flaking.

Step 3 – Protect the Surrounding Area

Use newspaper, painter’s tape or pieces of drop cloth to protect nearby areas, prior to applying primer and paint. This will better facilitate the cleaning process after the project, and will protect other bathroom furnishings and fixtures from paint and primer stains.

Step 4 – Apply Acrylic Latex Primer

Use a roller brush to apply an even coat of acrylic latex primer to the tiles. Use a latex paint brush to get rid of roller marks on the tile surface. Use soft strokes, until the latex primer creates a smooth, even surface. Wait at least 2 to 4 hours for the primer to dry.

Step 5 – Apply Latex Paint

Use a separate roller brush to apply a coat of latex paint over the entire tiled surface. Similar to the process of applying primer, use a paint brush to smooth the coat of paint over the tiles. Let the paint dry for 2 to 3 hours before applying a second coat. It would be best to apply 2 to 3 thin coats, to ensure maximum coverage. Let the paint dry completely.

You can choose from a wide variety of colors of paint that will match the overall theme and design of your bathroom. Remember to consider using epoxy paint when refinishing ceramic tiles in the shower, to create a permanent waterproof finish. Using acrylic floor paint is highly recommended when refinishing ceramic tile floors, as floor paint is more durable and resistant to skid marks caused by heavy foot traffic.


Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Restoration of Dirty Quartzite Tiled floor

This Quartzite tiled kitchen floor from a house in Leeds was in need of some attention and as well as a build-up of general dirt it was also affected by cooking oil and Grease. Any sealer that may have been in place had long since worn off and it was time for a good clean and re-seal.

Cleaning Quartzite Tile

I followed the usual process for cleaning floors of this type by applying a dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean, allow it to dwell for a while and then give the floor a good scrub using a rotary machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad. The soiled solution was then removed using a wet vacuum and floor washed down with clean water; sometimes this process needs to be repeated a number of times and often you will need to get into the grout lines by hand with a hard scrubbing brush as a scrubbing pad can float over the surface of the grout.

Sealing Quartzite Tile

Once the floor was dry it was sealed using two coats of Tile Doctor High Shine Sealer which gives leaves a durable high sheen finish together with stain resistance. There are a number of sealers available in the Tile Doctor range including Seal and Go which has a Low Sheen finish and Colour Grow which helps to bring out the colour in the tile; the final selection is a combination of the customer’s requirements and my guidance.
 
 

Source: Quartzite Tiled Kitchen floor cleaned and sealed in Leeds

Laying Ceramic Tile Stairs: What You Should Know

Building ceramic tile stairs isn't much different than laying down a ceramic tile floor. Ceramic tile makes a durable covering for stairs if the stair casing can handle the weight of the mortar, tile and grout.

Installation of Ceramic Tile Stairs

When you install ceramic tile on stairs, it is done in the same way as you would with a wall, or countertop. You spread out a layer of thinset on the subfloor and press the tile into the mortar. The use of plastic spacers will help you keep an even distance between tiles for grout.

Choose the Right Tiles

When you install ceramic tile stairs you will need to pay attention to the difference in tile sizes. Riser tiles and tread tiles are types of ceramic tiles that need special attention. When installing these, you will have to make sure that no tread tile extends over the edge of the stairs. Start with the whole tiles in the rear of the stair tread and then use the cut pieces to fill out the rest. Work with a good design or you will be cutting a lot.

Different Types of Grout

Ceramic tile stairs are not just about the tile. Grout has an important part to play also. Choose the wrong type and you could have several different problems all at once. Know where you want to install your tiles. Some grout works great under a lot of stress, while some grout works best in wetter conditions like in an entryway.

Be Careful with Wooden Stairs

Because of the weight of the ceramic tile, the mortar, and the grouting, standard wooden stairs are not a good match for ceramic tile. Concrete stairs should be used when you are going to use ceramic tiles for the stairs. If you do have wooden stairs, consider using a cement backboard for the tile. However, you will also have to reinforce the stairs themselves to handle the weight.

Different Types of Ceramic Tiles

Ceramic tile stairs require tiles that have a grip to them. Because of the glaze, and the nature of a ceramic tile, they can be very slippery. Chose some tiles that have a little bit of a tread to them. This will help to give your feet, or shoes, something to grip while walking on the treads.

When considering to use ceramic tile stairs you also have to consider the amount of use they are going to receive. If they are going to be in a high traffic area, then you will need to have tiles that are going to  be strong enough to handle the constant pressure. Look for the tiles that are hardened and do not chip, or crack easily. They are are little more costly, but it will be worth it if you do not have to change them all the time.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Cleaning and Sealing Black Slate floor tiles in Ilkley

Details below of a slate floor we cleaned and sealed in the kitchen of a house in Ilkley, West Yorkshire. You can see from the photographs that the large Black Slate floor tiles were looking dull and the grout had become soiled with ingrained dirt.

Cleaning Black Slate Tile Flooring

To remove the remaining sealer and dirt from the Slate Floor Tiles I used a solution of Tile Doctor Remove & Go mixed 50/50 with Tile Doctor Nanotech Ultra-Clean agitated with a rotary scrubbing machine fitted with a scrubbing pad. The grout was particularly stained and given the scrubbing machine isn’t as effective on the grout lines it was necessary scrub in Tile Doctor Pro-Clean Tile and Grout cleaner into the grout lines by hand using a grout scrubbing brush. The floor was then washed down with water to neutralise it and remove any remaining cleaning solution prior to sealing, it had take all day to clean the floor so we decided to let it dry overnight and come back the next day to seal.

Sealing Slate Tile Flooring

The Slate was sealed with several coats of Tile Doctor High Shine Sealer which provides a good combination of stain protection together with a high-sheen finish. Slate needs four to five coats and it’s necessary to let it dry between coats this step can take some time to complete. You can see the different in the photograph below; also notice how the sealer has given the floor a lift; the sealer will also protect the grout from further staining.

 

Source: Black Slate in Ilkley, West Yorkshire cleaned and sealed

How to Make and Apply Your Own Limestone Sealer

Using a natural limestone sealer is not only healthy; it is also safe for the environment. When deciding to seal limestone, make sure that it is necessary because some limestone applications do not need to be sealed at all. Not sealing it will preserve its natural beauty and breathability. However, if it is indeed necessary to provide the limestone with a membrane to protect it from constant staining and water infiltration, then make sure to use eco-friendly products. Here is how to make and apply your own limestone sealer.

What you'll need

• Tung Oil or Linseed Oil
• Beeswax
• Citrus Solvent
• Stirrer
• Container
• Brush
• Spray Bottle
• Cloth

Step 1 – Choosing the Best Sealer

Limestone sealer can be made with linseed oil, Tung oil or beeswax. Linseed oil mix is a good sealer but is recommended only if darkening and discoloration is not an issue. Tung oil mix dries completely and does not cause any discoloration after its application. The last option is beeswax. This product does not need any special mixing procedure and can be used as is.

Step 2 – Mixing the Ingredients

For linseed oil or Tung oil mix, simply mix one part of either product with one part of citrus solvent in a container. Sometimes, mineral spirits can be used as an alternative but only when there are no citrus solvent products available. The mix requires the same proportion of solvent.

Step 3 – Applying the Limestone Sealer

Remember that limestone is a very porous stone so make sure to work on the application as quickly as possible. Never leave a thick coating of the mix on the surface of the stone for a long time because it will be absorbed easily and cause uneven darkening. Dip a cloth in the mix and apply it thinly on the surfaces of the limestone. If not, use a paintbrush or a spray bottle to apply the sealer.

When using linseed, it is very important to spread only a thin layer of the mixture on every coating. Never spread a thick coating because linseed takes longer to dry than Tung oil. Allow the first coating to dry for about 24 hours before applying another coat. At least two or three thin coats of linseed oil mix are ideal.

For Tung oil mix, all coatings except the last should be spread thinly. After applying one or two thin coats of Tung oil mix, apply a thick coat for finishing. While the thin coats may take at least 8 hours to dry, the last thick coat may take about 2 to 4 days before it dries completely.

The beeswax is very easy to apply but it may require constant application. To apply the beeswax, simply place a decent amount on a cloth, spread it on the stone and buff immediately. Be careful not to apply too much wax though.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Install Limestone Fireplace Surrounds

Limestone fireplace surrounds are a great way to finish off a fireplace renovation or new install. The look of the natural stone will add a lot of character to a room and draw people's attention to the beauty of the fireplace. Homeowners today are enjoying the convenience of a pre-fabricated fireplace. However, these are usually sold without any type of surround or finish to them. Limestone fireplace surrounds are perfect for finishing off these more modern fireplaces. Here are the steps to take if you want to install a limestone fireplace surround yourself.

What you'll need

• Tape measure
• Level
• Trowel
• Wet saw
• Chisel
• Rubber mallet
• 2 by 4 Lumber
• Nails
• Hammer
• Limestone slabs
• Stress crack membrane
• Thinset
• Sponges, rags, bucket

Step 1 - Plan Your Fireplace Surround

Using a piece of graph paper and a pencil, plan out the way that you want your fireplace surround to look. You do not have to be extremely detailed at this point, but basic placement of the limestone and how far it will surround your fireplace are some considerations. Take plenty of measurements and take them to the hardware store when you buy your limestone slabs.

Step 2 - Prepare Surface

Before doing any work to the fireplace surround it must be prepared in order to receive the different materials. Clean off the different surfaces around the fireplace and dry it off completely. After the surfaces are clean you must make sure everything is level. If there are any low spots on the floor, or dips in the wall, apply some thinset to level off the surfaces.

Step 3 - Install Stress Crack Membrane

Around the fireplace you will find at least two different materials. The metal of the fireplace itself and the drywall of the wall. They both heat at different rates and can cause cracks in the thinset and limestone. A stress crack membrane will help to keep things even to eliminate the problems with the heating process.

Step 4 - Install Limestone on Hearth

The first place to start is the hearth. Start in the middle of the hearth and start to spread out a thin layer of thinset. Use a notched trowel and spread out enough to receive a couple limestone slabs. Set the limestone into the thinset and give it a little wiggle in order to create a stronger bond. Tap the limestone with a rubber mallet to get rid of any air bubbles and keep it level. Continue installing the limestone on the hearth leaving a 1/8 inch space between each slab.

Step 5 - Cut Limestone to Fit

There will be instances where you need to cut the limestone slabs. Use a wet saw with diamond blade to make each cut after careful measurements have been made.

Step 6 - Install Limestone on Wall

Using the same methods of installation of the limestone on the hearth, begin to finish the limestone fireplace surround by installing the slabs on the wall. Use lumber to brace the limestone so it does not fall before the thinset has a time to bond and set up.

Step 7 - Seal Limestone Fireplace Surround

Your surround is not finished until you grout the seams of the limestone and then seal it. Mix the grout according to directions and spread it over the surface filling all of the cracks and seams. Wipe off the excess. Allow the grout to dry and then apply the sealer. Once there are two coats on the limestone you can enjoy your work.


Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Stain Limestone Tiles

Limestone tiles look lovely in a room or an area. You might decide, though, that you want to color the limestone tiles to match the décor of your house. It’s not a difficult job, although it requires patience. At heart it’s similar to applying color to concrete as both are porous

.
What you'll need

• Safety goggles
• Respirator
• Gloves
• Masking tape
• Wet/dry vac
• Broom
• Paintbrush
• Concrete stain
• Sealer

Step 1 - Cleaning

Clear the entire area and then use a broom to remove al the debris, taking special care to get into corners and all the nooks and crannies. After this, use a wet/dry vacuum on the limestone tiles to take off all the dust and remaining dirt. To complete the preparations, apply making tape to other area where they meet the limestone tiles, such as baseboards. This will prevent the stain splashing on other areas and cut down on the cleanup.

Step 2 - Testing Colors

After selecting the stain for your limestone tiles you need to test it on the tiles. If possible, select a place not on view, such as a closet. Use a solution that’s 1 part stain to 1 part water. Allow it to dry for 3 hours then wipe of any excess stain and inspect the results. Since the color is the product of a reaction, it might not be exactly what you’d seen on the color sample.

Step 3-Washing

Before applying stain to the limestone tiles, wash them thoroughly and allow to dry. This will give you a clean surface for the stain. Remember that the concrete stain is mildly acidic so be sure to wear safety goggles, a respirator mask and gloves for your own protection.

You need to mix the stain in a 1 to 1 ratio and mix fully. As you’re working on limestone tiles, the best way to apply the stain is with a paintbrush on the surface of the tiles. This will require some care, and you should only apply a thin coat. Work in sections on the floor and use the brush to work the stain into the limestone tiles. After you’ve finished, leave the floor to dry for several hours.

Step 4 - Baking Soda

To stop the acidic reaction you need to go over the limestone tiles with a solution of baking soda and water. Use a mop and this solution on the floor and then use the wet/dry vac on the floor to taker up excess water. Allow to dry slightly then go over the floor again with the solution. You might need to do this three times to fully neutralize the acid. Leave overnight to dry completely.

Step 5 - Sealer

It will be easiest if you use a roller to apply the sealer to the limestone tiles, after cutting in around the edges with a paintbrush. Apply one coat and then leave it to dry before putting on a second coat. You’ll see that the sealer gives depth to the stain on the limestone tiles.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Install Travertine Wall Tiles

A decorative material that can accentuate the look of a bathroom, a kitchen or any area in the home is the installation of travertine wall tiles. The travertine tile is made of limestone. Travertine tiles are absorbent in nature, unlike other stones that are more dense and compact, making travertine tiles quite daunting to work with. However, with the right tools and materials you can easily cut, replace and install travertine wall tiles. Below are the materials that you need along with the instructions on how to install travertine wall tiles.

What you'll need

Trowel
Premix thin-set
Level
Measuring tape
1x2 lumber
Tile spacers
Cement board
Grout
Sealer
Grout float
Wet tile saw
Towel
Bucket
Water

Step 1-Preparing the Wall

Prepare the wall where the tiles will be installed by inspecting what materials were used on the wall like drywall, concrete or wood.

Step 2- Determine Tile Layout

Determine the design layout preferred for the travertine tiles so that installation will be properly carried on. Lay out the travertine on the floor exactly how you want travertine tiles to look like on the wall.

Step 3- Marking Center Line

Make a measurement of the top to the bottom of the wall and mark the center line with the use of the measuring tape and level. Attach securely a 1x2 board underneath the center line that will be the support for the row of tiles installed which will constitute the upper half installation.

Step 4- Apply Thin-Set Mortar

Apply premix thin-set mortar with a trowel thinly to the wall and to the back of the travertine tiles. It is important to use a white thin-set mortar on the tiles, not dark colored thin-set to avoid tile discoloration.

Step 5- Install Wall Tiles

Apply the travertine tiles to the location preferred by firmly pressing it to the wall making sure that the thin-set applied on the tiles and the wall will not get mixed. Check that tiles installed are at kept aligned using a level.

Step 6- Tile Spacers/ Adjustments

For even spacing of tiles, use tile spacers in-between each tile. Make necessary adjustments on the spacing of tiles. Determine the right size of the tiles if adjustment is needed on it. Mark the spot for the desired size of the tile and cut it along the marked line using a wet tile saw.

Step 7-Prepare Lower Half Installation

When the thin-set mortar on the upper half of the wall has completely settled, take out the 1x2 board from the wall. Determine the number of whole tiles needed on the lower half using a tape measure.

Step 8-Lower Half Installation

Installation of the lower part of the wall can be done following steps 4 to 6.

Step 9-Grout Paste

Combine water and grout powder in a bucket to make a thick paste. Scrape up grout paste using a grout float and evenly apply this on the space between the tiles. Clean up excess grout while it is still wet and allow for it to dry up.

Step 10-Sealer

Apply sealant on the travertine tiles. Make sure to allow the sealant to dry completely.


Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Victorian Tiled Hallway floor restored in Wigston

This beautiful Victorian tiled floor was discovered under hallway carpet at a house in the town of Wigston in Lincolnshire during a refurbishment. The carpet had been glued to the tile and to make things worse there were paint spots from on the tile from decorating.

Victorian Tiled Floor Restoration

Cleaning tiles can get a little messy so first job was to protect the carpet on the staircase with plastic sheeting secured with masking tape. The next step was to apply a solution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go to the tile, Remove and Go is a stripper and cleaner especially designed for use on Tile and very good at removing old sealers, adhesives and paint. The product does need time to get to work though so I left it on the floor to dwell for 50 minutes before agitating it with a rotary machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad. The soiled solution was removed from the floor using a wet vacuum and the tiled floor was then washed down using a high pressure steamer which gives a final clean as well as neutralising the floor ready for sealing. We made a decision sometime ago to invest in what’s known in the industry as a Truck Mounted pressure washing machine which is a very large industrial high pressure machine that’s so large it has to be installed into a van, it’s been well worth the investment as it does a really good job of cleaning hard floors and carpets.


We left the floor to dry and then sealed it with 4 coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which as well as providing stain protection adds a nice sheen to floor.

 

Source: Victorian Floor Restoration in Wigston, Leicestershire

How to Repair Scratches in Limestone Flooring

Though limestone flooring can be a great option because it looks good while remaining durable, it can still suffer scratches due to its porous nature. In order to keep your floor looking its best, you will need to follow the few steps require to undertake a repair.

What you'll need

• Pieces of limestone
• Epoxy resin
• Sealer
• Paintbrush
• Polishing compound
• Putty knife
• Scraper
• Grout
• Masking tape
• Rags
• Water
• Dustpan and brush

Step 1 – Inspection

The first step required before undertaking the repair of scratches in your limestone flooring is to thoroughly examine it. This will allow you to be aware of any scratches that many not be immediately evident that can be repaired at the same time. If necessary, place a piece of masking tape next to each scratch you find so that you don’t lose track of it.

Step 2 – Clean

In order to make the surface of your limestone flooring ready to accept the repair, you must ensure that it is clean and free from any obstruction. Move any items and furnishings away from the vicinity so that they are not at risk of being damaged. Use a broom or dustpan and brush to sweep up any loose dust and debris. More stubborn grime can be cleaned with a rag that has been dampened with water and a little elbow grease. Allow the floor to thoroughly dry naturally or wipe it with a rag.

Step 3 – Minor Scratches

For minor scratches such as scuff marks, begin by using a mild polishing that is available from hardware stores. This should be gently rubbed over the scratch to smooth the surface, while continually checking the status of it. Once you are happy with the finish, wipe away the compound with a damp cloth before brushing on some sealant. This is required to renew that which has been removed with the abrasive and protect the repair. Freshly mixed grout can be used as an alternative in this process.  

Step 4 – Deeper Scratches

Scratches in the limestone flooring that cannot be rectified with the above process will require a little more work to repair. An epoxy resin can be mixed until it matches the color of your limestone floor. A putty knife can be used to gather up a small amount of the epoxy to apply it to the scratch until it has been filled. The surface can be smoothed by running a scraper across it to remove the excess. Leave this to dry completely before sealing the scratch by brushing on some sealant.  

Step 5 – Severe Scratches

In the event that your limestone flooring has suffered scratches which are severe enough to be classed as gouges or chips, you will require spare slivers or ships of the limestone to repair. Flooring suppliers will often be able to supply fragments of limestone that can be used for repair. Apply the fragments with some epoxy and carefully wipe away the excess when they are securely in place. Leave it to thoroughly dry before sealing the repair site.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Tips for Laying Limestone Floor Tiles

Limestone floor tiles are ideal for bathrooms and kitchen floors. They come in various colors to suit the theme of any household. When laying them, some tips will come in handy if you want a perfect job done:

The Surface should be Clean

It is advisable to sweep the area, especially when installing on a surface that has been in use for a long time. If the stone particles are not removed, they will uneven the flooring laid and provide leakage points for water and other fluids. They will also lead to misuse of more materials.

Cut the Edges

In most cases, the walls may not be straight and the limestone floor tiles may require cutting for compatibility with the walls. The easy way is to lay them first in order to calculate the area that needs cutting in order to minimize wastage.

Maintain Symmetry

The limestone floor tiles should be placed along straight lines for even flooring or there will be uncovered corners in the room. This is possible by working with small sections, thus avoiding doing repeat jobs on large surfaces in the house. In case there is a pattern that is expected, they can be laid in that order before fixing them onto the surface.


Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Repair Chips and Cracks in Limestone Floors

Limestone floors are a handsome and durable flooring choice. Although of considerable strength, limestone can still be subject to damages such as minor chips and cracks. If you notice such faults in your limestone flooring and you want to return it back to its former glory, you can undertake a DIY repair, saving yourself the cost of a professional
.
What you'll need

• Brush 
• Dustpan 
• Epoxy resin 
• Grout 
• Masking tape 
• Paintbrush 
• Pieces of limestone 
• Polish 
• Putty knife 
• Rags 
• Scraper 
• Sealant 
• Water

Step 1 – Clearing the Area

Before getting down on your knees, remove all furniture and other home furnishings that might be on the repair area. This will allow you to have an unobstructed view of the entire floor area as well as prevent any damages that can be done on your valuable furniture.

Step 2 – Inspecting the Limestone Floor

The first task on the repair should always be the inspection of the floor area. Check it thoroughly to identify all cracks and dents and if there are many, mark them with masking tape.

Step 3 – Cleaning the Area

To make the repair more effective, clean the surface of your limestone floor as well. Make sure that it is spotlessly clean and devoid of obstructions. Sweep up any dust and debris. For stubborn grimes use a damp rag and some elbow grease, and wipe the floor thoroughly Wait until the floor dries naturally or you can wipe it dry with a rag if you are in a hurry.

Step 4 – Repairing Minor Damages

For chips and cracks that are very shallow and minor, you can make use of a mild polish that you can purchase from local hardware. Rub the product gently over the crack or chip so that you can have a smoother surface. Once you are satisfied with the result, wipe off the polish with a damp cloth and then brush on a sealant. This is to protect the repair that you have made. Alternatively, you can make use of grout that has been freshly mixed.

Step 5 – Repairing Deeper Faults

If there are deeper cracks or chips on the limestone that cannot be corrected through the previous step, you can make use of epoxy resin that has been mixed until its color is the same as that of your limestone floor. Apply the compound on cracks and chips with a putty knife. For deeper damages, you can make use of chips or slivers of limestone. Use the fragments to fill deeper cavities together with epoxy. Once you have the pieces secured, wipe off the excess glue. Allow complete drying before applying the sealant.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Pros and Cons of Limestone Flooring

Installing limestone flooring in your home could be something to consider. Here are a few of the pros and cons associated with using limestone flooring.

Pros: Cost and Looks

The cost of limestone flooring is going to be less expensive than many other natural stone options that you have. While it will be more expensive than a ceramic or porcelain tile, it is going to be less than purchasing granite or marble for your floor. This allows you to get a natural stone floor for less money than you would pay otherwise.

Limestone can provide you with a very beautiful look that is applicable in a number of different situations. Limestone has been used as flooring for centuries and can provide you with a very rustic and old world look.

Cons: Sealing and Durability

Limestone is a natural substance and therefore is very porous. If you are going to use it as a flooring option, you will have to seal it periodically for best results. Otherwise, it could stain and look bad within a short period of time.

Compared to other natural stones, limestone is one of the softer products available on the market. This means, that you should avoid putting it in high-traffic areas as it could chip or break.


Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Remove Carpet Glue From Hardwood Floors

By an eHow Contributor

A floor glue is necessary to bond carpeting to a solid foundation. This adhesive is highly resilient once it has dried, and often remains tacky even after the carpet has been lifted. A chemical remover is required to dissolve the carpet glue since it typically cannot be removed using ordinary cleaning methods. Along with specific tools, the solvent will help restore the underlying hardwood to its bare condition.

Things You'll Need

• Pot
• Respirator
• Adhesive remover
• Long-handled scraper
• Push broom
• Garbage bag
• Mop
• Soap

Instructions

1

Boil a small pot of water that is easy enough to carry. Bring it to the hardwood floor and carefully poor the hot water over a manageable area of the carpet glue; the heat softens the adhesive and allows it to dissolve more easily.

2

Wear a respirator and thoroughly ventilate the area. Open all the windows nearby and place an electric fan in the workspace to improve circulation if necessary.

3

Apply an adhesive remover to the softened glue according to the manufacturer's directions; varieties of this chemical solution are available in nontoxic formulas from home improvement retailers. Leave the remover to set into the glue for the time instructed on the product label.

4

Loosen the softened carpet glue with a long-handled scraper. The process can be time-consuming but is necessary to lift all of the residue.

5

Sweep the floor with a push broom to clear the excess residue from the hardwood. Properly dispose of it in a garbage bag and mop the floor with a mild soap or detergent for cleaning.

Source: www.eHow.com