How to Clean Porcelain Tile Flooring

Porcelain tile flooring is one of the easiest floors to care for. It doesn’t require sealants or special cleaners. However, it does need some extra cleaning from time to time. When those times arise, here are the steps to take.

You Will Need:

• Water
• Bucket
• Sponge mop
• Porcelain tile cleaner or
• ¼ cup vinegar with 2 gallons hot water or
• All purpose household cleaner (ex: Mr. Clean, Fantastik)

Steps to Clean the Floor:

1. Start by vacuuming the floor to remove any loose dirt and debris.
2. When cleaning porcelain tiles, it is best to work in small sections to ensure the cleaning product is applied and removed in a timely manner.
3. Apply the cleaning product or vinegar solution with hot water to the floor’s surface.
4. Allow it to set for a few minutes.
5. After the solution has set on the floor, scrub it with a sponge mop to clean away any dirt and/or stains from the surface.
6. Rinse with clear water. Using a wet vacuum works well to remove all of the cleaning solution.
7. Allow the floor to dry.

Additional Tips and Advice

1. For regular cleanings, sweeping and vacuuming is sufficient. Mopping with plain water will help to remove minor dirt and dust.
2. Do not allow the cleaning solution to dry on the surface of the porcelain tiles. This can result in staining and streaking.
3. If the floor is polished, use half the amount of detergent as described above.
4. Avoid staining on the floor by wiping up spills as soon as possible.
5. All purpose household cleaners can be used on porcelain tile floors. Soapless detergents such as Spic and Span or 409 can also be used.
6. It is recommended that a small test area be conducted with any cleaning product before applying it to the entire floor. This helps to ensure that there are no adverse effects from the cleaning product.

Source: www.HowToCleanStuff.net

How to Clean Brick Flooring

By Ris Lexington, eHow Contributor

Brick flooring on a patio can be very beautiful. Sometimes, though, cleaning a brick floor can be quite exhausting. Learn how to properly care for brick flooring and prevent salt-buildup from occuring.

Things You'll Need

A Warm Sunny Day

Dishwashing Powdered Detergent

Water

Pail

Stiff-Bristled Scrub Brush

Garden Hose

Mop

Old Towel

Instructions

1. Fill a bucket or pail with warm water. Add powdered dishwashing detergent to the water.
2. Dunk the stiff-bristled scrub brush into the pail and begin scrubbing your brick flooring. This will prevent and eliminate white residue build-up on the surface of your bricks.
3. Rinse your brick flooring with a garden hose once you've finished scrubbing.
4. Use your mop to mop up excess water. Too much water can bring natural salts in bricks to the surface, thus causing a white film.
5. Take an old towel and dry any remaining wet spots. Let the sun take care of the rest!

Tips & Warnings

• Never use soap on brick flooring, as it will leave deposits on the surface.

Source: www.eHow.com

How to Clean Stone Fireplaces

By Eleanor Jewell, eHow Contributor

Trisodium Phosphate, also known as TSP, is a powerful chemical cleaner that can be found in most hardware stores. As your fireplace burns, it emits soot and dust particles that are transferred to the stones of your fireplace via the air that circulates throughout the room. TSP is very effective in cleaning this grime that has accumulated on the fireplace stones over a long winter's use.

Things You'll Need

Rubber gloves
Goggles
TSP
Water
2 large buckets
2 soft cloths
Scrub brush

Instructions

1. Wear heavy duty rubber gloves and a pair of goggles. The goggles will protect your eyes from the chemical used to clean you stone fireplace, and the rubber gloves will protect the skin of your hands, as well. TSP is a caustic chemical and can cause burns if it comes in contact with the skin or eyes.
2. Open up all of the windows in the room that has the stone fireplace that needs cleaning. The fumes from the TSP can be quit overpowering, so it is a good idea to allow fresh air to circulate throughout the room during its use. It is also suggested that pets and children be removed from the room before the cleaning begins.
3. Mix the TSP in a large bucket with warm water. Pour 1/2 cup of TSP into the bucket and add 3 quarts of warm water. If the fireplace stones are not in need of a deep cleaning, you can further dilute the product by adding more water to the bucket, otherwise the original 3 quarts of water should suffice.
4. Dip the scrub brush into the bucket of TSP cleaning solution and apply the cleaner to the stones of the fireplace. Scrub the stones until they are free of all dirt, dust and soot. Alternating between dipping the scrub brush into the cleaner and scrubbing the stones should be effective in removing any buildup that has accumulated on the stones during the fireplace's use.
5. Wipe down the stones with a soft cloth and a second bucket filled with warm water. Add no soap or detergents to the water, since this bucket will strictly be used for rinsing.
6. Dry the fireplace stones with a second soft cloth. The stones should be dried thoroughly to prevent mold and mildew from building up in between where the mortar lies. Continue this process as often as necessary.

Tips & Warnings

• Foaming bathroom cleaners, often used to remove soap scum and other residues from shower walls and tubs, work wonders in cleaning stone surfaces. This can be used in between TSP cleanings and for lighter jobs. Spray the foaming cleaner onto the stones and wipe away the grime.
• TSP is accepted as a drain disposable chemical. It is advised that the tap be turned on full force to help the chemical flow through the drainage system. Remember to continue wearing the rubber gloves and goggles when disposing of the TSP as well as during cleaning.

Source: eHow.com

How to Install Terra-cotta Tile

By Drue Tibbits, eHow Contributor

Terra-cotta tiles have a charm all their own. Hand-formed from clay, these rustic, earth-toned tiles are available in many different sizes and shapes. No two terra-cotta tiles are ever alike, and even within a batch of tiles, you will find variations of color and thickness. Terra-cotta tiles need special consideration during installation. Most terra-cotta tiles are unglazed, and consequently are very porous. The varying thickness of the tiles requires adjustments in the adhesive bed. Once you learn the special requirements of terra-cotta tiles, you can save money by installing them yourself.

Things You'll Need

• Tape measure
• Chalk box
• Carpenter's square
• Thick-bed adhesive, premixed or dry
• Adhesive trowel
• Tile spacers
• 4-foot level
• 4-foot straightedge
• Angle grinder
• Stone-cutting wheel
• Safety glasses
• Presealer, specifically for terra-cotta tile
• Grout mix
• 5-gallon bucket
• Grout bag
• 12-inch piece of metal pipe, 1-inch outside diameter
• Rags
• Terra-cotta sealer

Instructions

1. Clean the floor and remove all dust and debris.
2. Find the center of the floor by measuring each wall and marking their centers. Run chalk lines on the floor from the center of each side of the room to the center of the opposite side. Use a carpenter's square to check if the chalk line intersection is square. Adjust the lines as needed until you have a squared center point.
3. Mix up enough thick-bed adhesive to cover a 3-foot by 3-foot area. Apply the adhesive, using the trowel, to the backside of one tile. Place the tile in position on the floor, in one of the corners made by the chalk line intersection.
4. Apply adhesive to the back of another tile. Place it in position in one of the remaining corners of the intersection. Use spacers between the tiles to maintain an even gap. Apply adhesive and place the next two tiles in the remaining two spaces.
5. Apply adhesive on the floor and continue laying the terra-cotta tile, using the chalk lines to keep the tile straight, until you have covered a 3-foot by 3-foot area. Continue using spacers throughout the installation to maintain an even gap between tiles.
6. Place a 4-foot level on top of the tile. Adjust the tiles as necessary until they are level. You may be able to push some tiles down until they are level, but you may have to pull up a tile and add more adhesive to bring it level. Check that the tiles are level in all directions.
7. Continue installing 3-foot by 3-foot blocks of tile at a time, using the chalk lines and a straightedge to keep the tiles lined up. Check the tiles with the level frequently, and adjust tiles as needed to bring them up to level.
8. Cut tile as needed to fit, using an angle grinder with a stone-cutting wheel. Wear safety glasses when cutting the tile. Cut thin tiles all the way through, and cut thicker tiles 3/4 of the way through the tile, then snap the tile apart.
9. Allow the thick-bed adhesive to dry, following the manufacturer's directions, before you walk on the tile.
10. Apply terra-cotta presealer to the tile after the thick-bed adhesive has dried. Follow the manufacturer's directions for application instructions. Allow the presealer to dry.
11. Mix some grout in a bucket. The size of the room and the thickness of the grout lines determine the quantity of grout needed. You can find quantity guidelines listed on the grout package.
12. Fill a grout bag with the mixed grout. Place the grout bag opening into the grout line. Fill the space with grout, moving the bag along the line as you go. Fill the grout line completely, but avoid overfilling. Fill the grout lines in a 3-foot by 3-foot section.
13. Use a metal pipe held at an angle to create a slightly concave surface in the grout. Lay the pipe end on the tile and pull it slowly toward you. Clean any grout off the terra-cotta tile immediately with a damp rag.
14. Continue grouting the room in sections until all of the tile has been grouted. Allow the grout to dry completely.
15. Apply a terra-cotta tile sealer to your finished installation to help the tile resist stains and make it easier to clean. Follow the sealer's application instructions.

Source: www.eHow.com

How to Tile a Bathroom Floor

Laying bathroom floor tile is an easy first-time tile project because bathrooms tend to be much smaller and less visible than a kitchen or foyer. If you are laying tile over a sub-floor, rather than a cement foundation, you should first lay cement board, which seals out moisture and helps the tile to adhere to the floor. Once you have purchased your tile and a complementary color of grout, you just need a few more supplies and inexpensive tools to tile a bathroom floor yourself.

THINGS YOU'LL NEED

• Measuring tape
• Cement board
• Utility knife
• Thin-set mortar
• 2 large buckets
• Notched trowel
• Roofing nails
• Hammer
• Square
• Chalk line
• Tile
• Tile cutter or wet saw
• Tile spacers
• Level
• Large sponge
• Grout
• Grout float
• Grout sealant
• Knee pads

THE STEPS

Laying Cement Board

1. Mix a batch of thin-set mortar with water in a bucket, according to the manufacturer directions. It should be thick, but not so thick that is doesn't fall off a trowel. Don't mix more thin-set than you can use within an hour, or it will begin to dry out.
2. Spread a layer of thin-set on the sub-floor with the notched trowel.
3. Cut the cement board to fit the space, if necessary, by scoring it with a utility knife. Lay the cement board over the thin-set.
4. Pound in roofing nails along the edge to secure the backer board to the floor.
5. Continue this process until the floor is covered in backer board.
6. Apply a thin layer of thin-set mortar over the joints.
7. Wait until the next day to begin laying tile.

Laying Bathroom Floor Tile

1. Establish a straight vertical and horizontal reference line from the center of the room. If you simply start laying tile along a crooked wall, it will look really crooked by the time you reach the opposite wall.
   • Identify the most visible wall when you walk into the room. This is the wall with the longest area of continuous tile.
   • Determine a 90-degree angle from that wall, using a square, and snap a chalk line across the room.
   • Use the square again to mark a perfect 90-degree angle from that chalk line and snap another chalk line that's perpendicular to the first one. Now you have two intersecting chalk lines as a reference to lay the first tile.
2. Lay out a single horizontal and vertical row of tiles across the floor along the chalk reference lines. Shift the tiles, if needed, so any cuts that must be made by the wall are against the least noticeable wall. You also don't want cut tiles at the entrance to the bathroom, so adjust the tiles so cuts are against the far wall.
3. Snap additional chalk reference lines, once the tile layout is finalized.
4. Set the first tile in the far corner of the room and work towards the doorway. You won't want to step on the newly laid tile before the mortar has a chance to dry.
5. Work on laying the tile in small sections at a time.
   • Mix up a small batch of thin-set mortar and spread a thin layer on the cement board with the notched trowel.
   • Lay several pieces of tile with tile spacers to establish even grout lines.
   • Firmly press the tile into the mortar so there are no air bubbles underneath.
   • Set a level across the top of the tiles to make sure they are perfectly flat.
6. Cut tiles with a tile cutter or wet saw, if necessary, to fit along the wall. You may also need to make cuts for tiles that sit around toilets and other rounded objects in the floor.
7. Allow the thin-set to dry for at least a day, or as recommended by the manufacturer, before grouting.

Grouting Bathroom Floor Tile

1. Pull the tile spacers out from between the tiles before adding grout.
2. Mix the sanded grout with water in a bucket, according to the manufacturer directions.
3. Scoop some grout onto the file floor with a trowel, and then firmly press it into the grout lines with the grout float, working in small sections at a time.
4. Remove the excess grout from the surface of the tile before it has a chance to dry.
   • Fill a second bucket with water and use it to wet the large sponge with rounded corners.
   • Wring out the sponge and then wipe over the tile so that you are moving at a diagonal to the grout lines. If you wipe parallel to the grout lines, you might gouge out some of the grout and leave an uneven surface.
   • Rinse the sponge in the bucket of water and repeat until all the grout is removed from the surface of the tile.
5. Repeat this process until the entire floor is grouted.
6. Wait at least 2 days for the grout to cure before sealing it.

TIPS

• Purchase your tile all at once, accounting for at least 15 percent overage for cut tiles and breakage, because the dye lot can vary from shipment to shipment.
• Wearing knee pads during tiling and grouting, which requires kneeling on a hard surface for long periods of time, protects your knees.
• A sponge with rounded corners is best for removing grout from the surface of the tile, because a sponge with squared edges may gouge out some of the grout when you wipe across the grout lines.

WARNINGS

• Expect the grout to appear much darker when applying it. If you aren't sure the color is correct, dry a small area with a hair dryer before grouting the entire floor with the wrong color. It's extremely difficult to remove grout once it's dried.
• Don't add too much water to grout or it won't harden as well. It should be about the consistency of thick batter.

Source: WikiHow.com

Saltillo Tiles in Shirley

We went and had a look at a floor in a house in Shirley recently to find a dull Saltillo Terracotta tiled floor that was in need of some Tile Doctor TLC. Saltillo tiles are typically made in a region of Mexico; they are very porous and can scuff and stain quite easily if not protected so it’s important to maintain a sealer.

Cleaning Saltillo Tiles

We advised the customer that we would probably not be able to get the tile in the traffic lanes back to the same colour due to the excessive wear from foot traffic but we would certainly try our best. We find it best to be honest about what we can achieve and set the customer’s expectations up front. They were happy for us to continue and accepted our very reasonable quote for the amount of work involved so we about cleaning the floor. This we did using a solution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean tile and grout cleaner. To clean the tougher areas that were heavily stained we mixed the Pro-Clean with a little Tile Doctor NanoTech Ultra-Clean which helps to enhance the cleaning power.

Grout Re-Colouring

We left the floor to dry for 2 days then we went back and re-coloured the customer’s grout which as you can see from the pictures made a huge difference to the look of the floor. Grout Colourant can make a old tired looking floor look totally different and when applied properly forms a barrier that protects the grout from dirt engraining into the grout.

Sealing Saltillo Tiles

Terracotta tile are extremely porous and so it came as no surprise that we needed to apply nine coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go. After the last coat we waited for fourty minutes and then buffed the floor to bring out the shine and harden the sealer, the customer was very pleased with the results and made the following comment:

Thank you very much for doing such a wonderful and professional job my wife and I are very impressed with the results.

Source: Saltillo Tiles Restoration in Shirley

How to Clean Tile and Grouted Counter Tops

By Mary Lamphere, Yahoo! Contributor Network

If you find that your grouted tile counter tops have begun to get stained and maybe even grow some mold then it is definitely time to clean them. Cleaning tile counter tops begins with making sure that the grout itself is clean. Most times, it's not really the tile that is difficult to clean but rather the grout that tends to become a pesky little problem on cleaning day. Follow these tips for cleaning grouted counter tops effectively without spending hours trying!

How to Clean Tile Counter Tops Step 1:

Begin by choosing a cleaner for the tile count tops. I use bleach if the counters are really bad such as in a rental clean out or the bathrooms but if the grout and the tile isn't super dirty then you can go with a cleaner such as Tile-X or even Mr. Clean. Whatever your household cleaner preference is will do.

How to Clean Tile Counter Tops Step 2:

Using a toothbrush, begin by cleaning grouted counter tops along the grout lines first. Follow the grid of the tile grout scrubbing the entire grouted area with a toothbrush and your chosen cleaner. If the grout is very dark stained or dirty and hasn't been cleaned in a long time you may need to use a wire bursh to clean the grout. I don't suggest using a wire brush more than necessary because it will tend to break down the grout over time.

How to Clean Tile Counter Tops Step 3:

Using a sponge, gently wipe away the dirt and grime that you have scrubbed up while cleaning the tile counter tops. The dirt from the grout should lift easily since you scrubbed it with a toothbrush or a wire brush.

How to Clean Tile Counter Tops Step 4:

Once you have thoroughly scrubbed the tile counter tops and the grouted areas of the counter tops you are ready to let the entire area dry and then apply a sealer to the grouted areas to prevent future staining.

Sealing the Counter Tops after Cleaning Tile Counter Tops:

Using a professional grout sealer and a roll on grout brush you will apply a coat of sealer to all of the grout joints on the counter top. Allow the sealer to dry for at least 24 hours before using the counter tops regularly. This sealer will prevent future items from staining the grout so easily.

Once the tile and grouted counter tops have been thoroughly cleaned and sealed with grout you should have very little trouble getting them clean in the future. A good application to use on sealed grout and tile is a solution of ¼ cup of white vinegar to a gallon of water to clean the surface. The vinegar solution will keep tile clean and glowing without damaging the grout!

Source: www.Voices.Yahoo.com

How to Lay Travertine Flooring

Travertine stone tile that is durable, beautiful and easy to fit into any space. Most people use it for floors and counter tops. Travertine comes in natural textures and variations of ivory, beige and rust colors. You can learn how to lay travertine flooring yourself.

Things You'll Need

Hammer
Chisel
Travertine tiles
Adhesive
Grout
Trowel
Sealant (optional)

Instructions

1. Remove any existing tiles to create an even solid surface. Use an electric chisel or the more traditional hammer and chisel to remove the old tiles.
2. Arrange the new tiles on the floor--without adhesive--to make sure your layout plan works. Mark the back of each tiles with a number to help you remember where they fit in the pattern. Make sure you leave enough space between your tiles for grout.
3. Apply a thinset adhesive, either a liquid or powder mix, specifically made for travertine on a 4-foot section of the floor. Lay the tiles carefully onto the adhesive. Stick to your layout plan and keep the tiles even and level.
4. Repeat the process until all you've placed all the tiles. Allow the adhesive to dry completely.
5. Mix your grout, or buy a pre-mixed grout, and apply it with a grout trowel. Push the substance into the crevices and corners. Use a sanded grout in your choice of color.
6. Wipe any excess grout off the tiles and allow the work to dry. After a week, or when the floor is definitely set, apply a sealant. This will help to make your new travertine floor stain-resistant and protect against wear. Make sure you use a sealant since travertine tiles are porous and can stain easily if you accidentally leave spills to sit for too long.

Tips & Warnings

• Use backer board under tiles for a more even surface.
• Avoid using cleaners with vinegar or citric acid, which can erode and stain the surface of unsealed tiles.

Source: www.eHow.com

How to Repair a Crack in a Marble Slab

By Joshua Bailey, eHow Contributor

For many different reasons, marble may become cracked. Replacing marble of any size is very expensive, so repairing it yourself is a great alternative. Using a precise mix of marble dust and polyester resin, you can have your marble slab looking like new again.

Things You'll Need

Rubber gloves
Safety goggles
Soft-bristle brush
Water
Soft cloths
8-oz. glass
Epoxy adhesive
Powdered marble
Calcined magnesite or polyester resin
Bucket
Wooden spoon
Putty knife
Trowel


Instructions

Put on your safety gear, and use the soft-bristle brush to gently remove loose pieces of marble from the crack. Wet the area and allow it to stay wet for better bonding between the existing marble and the epoxy adhesive.
Place a small amount of epoxy adhesive around the inside of the crack.
Measure 4 oz. each of powdered marble, also known as marble dust, and polyester resin or calcined magnesite. Pour the elements into the bucket and stir with a wooden spoon. The consistency should be pasty but not too thick or watery.
Scoop a small amount of the mixture onto the putty knife, and place it inside the crack. If it is a thin, hairline crack, use the tip of the putty knife to push the mix down into the crack. Overfill it so there is marble mix above the surface.
Smooth over it with a trowel, and use the side of the trowel to gently scoop off the excess marble. The filled crack should now be flush and even with the top surface. Allow the repair to dry for 24 hours.


Source: www.eHow.com

Cleaning Limestone Tiles fitted in the kitchen and utility room in a peaceful residence in London. This involved a good deep clean, burnishing and then sealing to restore the natural colour and appearance of the stone.



Source: Limestone Tile Cleaning

Cleaning Natural Slate Paving

We were asked to take a look at a natural slate paving leading up to the entrance of a lovely old residence in North London. The slate path had only been recently laid, grouted and sealed and the owner was not best pleased with the results and a request was made to remedy the situation and return the slate back to its natural colour and appearance.


We carried out a series of tests to ensure we could remove both the sealer and grout haze from the surface of the tile. It’s not a good idea to apply a different sealer on top of an existing product as the end results will be inconsistent and the products maybe incompatible. We cleaned up the tile, sealed it and left it to weather for a few days to demonstrate to the customer the durability of the finish.

Cleaning Natural Slate Paving

All was well with the test and we got the green light to do the whole slate path. We started by cleaning the path with Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which was then washed off and allowed to dry. We then applied Tile Doctor Remove and Go mixed 50/50 with Tile Doctor NanoTech Ultra Clean; this is a really powerful combination which we left to dwell on the tile for an hour in order to soften up the current sealer and ingrained dirt. The solution was then removed and the slate tile washed down with more water.

With the sealer removed we tackled the Grout Haze by using Grout Clean Up and a fair amount of elbow grease with stainless steel and polypropylene detail brushes.
Last step before sealing was to neutralise the floor with another rinse down, this time washing the tile with Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner, it’s important that any remaining chemical is removed from the surface otherwise it may upset the sealer.

Sealing Natural Slate Paving

Finally once the slate had dried, we applied 3 coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow and buffed off the last coat with a buffing pad to bring out the deep colour from within the Slate; the sealer was fully dry and path ready for normal use 12 hours. For maintenance we recommend using Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner, diluted 1 to 30 with water applied with a microfibre flat mop, rinse with water and dry with second microfibre mop. The customer was very happy with the results and left the following message:

Robert’s communication was excellent and he always kept us informed on what to expect and the timescales involved. He was very reliable and punctual and the quality of his work was to a very high standard. We were very pleased with his work and overall service.
Mr. M. Vaughan, Alexandra Park, London



Source: Cleaning a Natural Slate Path

How to Remove Oil-Based Paint From Tile Floors

By Sarah Coennen, eHow Contributor

Oil-based paints are used in many crafts and are also used in remodeling. These types of paints are sometimes labeled as permanent paints, but this is not necessarily true. When this paint is used around tile and the paint spills, it needs to be removed from the tile as soon as the spill occurs. Fortunately, most of the tiles on the market have a glaze that makes the tiles pretty stain resistant. When the oil paint is allowed to dry, it is a bit more difficult to remove, but it can still be done.

Things You'll Need

Heavy-duty detergent
Cloth
Warm water

Instructions

1. Mix 1 part heavy-duty detergent per 3 parts of warm water to make a cleaning solution.
2. Dip the cloth into the cleaning solution and wring out some of the liquid.
3. Place the cloth over the oil-based paint stain and let it sit until the cloth is cool to the touch.
4. Re-wet the cloth and wring out as much liquid as possible.
5. Scrub the oil paint with the wet cloth until it is removed from the tile.

Source: www.eHow.com

Riven Slate Floor Cleaning

Riven Slate cleaning in Lincoln done by Tile Doctor Phil Barrs. Slate floors especially riven slate can be a nightmare to keep clean as the uneven surface of a riven tile traps dirt and makes it difficult to clean.




Source: Riven Slate Floor Cleaning

Slate Tile Floor Installation

By Mason James, Yahoo! Contributor Network

Before installing your tile floor, be sure to pick up the proper tools to help with your project. You are going to need a tape measure, hammer, square, and glass cutter. Clean rags and a sponge will also help you along the way. Also, don't forget to wear safety goggles as safety is important in any construction job.

Before tiling installation can get under way, the floor must be properly prepared to accept the tile being layed. Remove the original flooring. When the original floor is removed, inspect the sub-floor to make sure it is in good condition. If the subfloor moves up and down when being walked upon, it may need to be nailed back down so it's held firmly in place. A sub-floor that is not rigid may crack the new tile that is layed over it.

Now that the floor is level and determined to be in good condition, clean any and all debris off of the floor. In the bathroom, you will need to remove the toilet. When laying tile in a bathroom or kitchen, a waterproof underlayment must be used to aid in moisture protection. If not used, any spills that occur in these areas might get under the tile and damage the flooring underneath it. Even though you will not see it, having a quality underlayment is a very important part of installing and maintaining a tile floor. Use a high quality underlayment with a concrete core and fiberglass facing. This is the best protection against any water damage, especially in a bathroom or kitchen. Use patience when installing the underlayment and things should fall into place much easier. The room will need to be measured and the underlayment will need to be cut to the proper length. Use a square and a straight edge to mark the underlayment and score it with a strong utility knife where it's needed to be cut off. It will easily break on the score line and can be fitted into place. A tile mortar can be used on the sub-floor and specially made screws that are made just for this, can be used to hold the underlayment in place. When the underlayment is finally secured to the floor, fill in all the joints with mortar and use a joint tape to seal all of the seams.

Before you lay any tile down, locate the center of the room. Having your tiles properly centered will give a better appearance upon completion of the floor. Use a chalk line to find the center of the room and this line will also be used when you start to lay the tile. It will provide a straight line to begin laying the tile. Now the tile can start to be installed.

Start by spreading a layer of tile adhesive along the side of the chalk line you created to find the center of the room. Lay the first tile down and then start on another. Be sure to have purchased some spacers to place in between the tiles so that there is a nice even line where the grout is going to be placed later on. Remove the spacers as needed to continue laying the tile. After laying a couple of rows of tile down, go back and make sure they are all level and fit snuggly into place. A subtle tap with a rubber mallet might need to be used if not positioned properly. If any adhesive has squirted out between the tiles, definitely go back and wipe it clean with a damp sponge or rag. Don't let this stuff dry hard or you are going to have a really difficult time removing it later.

You started your project in the center of the room for the best possible appearance and now you have made it all the way out to the walls. This is where things become a little more tricky because the tiles will more than likely need to be cut in order to fit in place. The cheapest way is to just use a glass cutter. This also works quite well. Measure the desired dimension of the area needed to be filled with a tile. Transfer those dimensions onto the tile. Use a straight edge and glass cutter to score the mark. You should then be able to snap the tile on the score and fit it into place. In the bathroom, you will need to cut the tile to fit around the toilet drain. Different types of masonry drill bits can be used for this. Another good way to fit a tile around a drain is to repeatedly score the area to be removed with a glass cutter and then use a pliers to carefully remove the tile a piece at a time.

Now that the tile floor is completely installed, the joints must be filled in with grout. Ask for a grout applicator when purchasing your materials and you'll have it ready for when this step comes. Mix the grout to the packaging recommendations and apply it into the joints. Be sure to clean up any excess with a damp sponge or rag. The longer the grout cures the better. I would allow up to a week. If a water sealer is needed, you may go over the grout and apply the finishing touches. In the bathroom, you can now reinstall the toilet. Be sure to use a brand new wax ring. A reinforced wax ring works best. Different types of baseboards can be used to match the floor in the kitchen. There are also decorative quarter round that can be placed around the wall to fill the outer gaps. You should have no trouble finding some nice looking ones that match the decor. There are many types to choose from.

Remember when doing at home projects, to always wear safety goggles and other personal protective equipment to protect yourself from injury. It is also a good idea to read all of the instructions and manufacturers recommendations labeled on the packaging to get the best results for you new tile floor.

Source: www.Voices.Yahoo.com

How to clean marble floors

Marble is a beautiful stone and a luxurious and wonderful addition to a home. However, marble is also a delicate stone and homeowners with marble know that great care is required to maintain your floor’s shine and prevent scratching. Cleaning marble floors starts with preventative care and regular maintenance. Sweeping or dusting and mopping on a daily basis will remove any dirt or surface debris that could scratch or otherwise harm your marble. It’s also important to take care of spills as soon as they occur so that water or other liquids aren’t allowed to stain your floor.

How to clean marble floors?  It is important that the cleaning solution used on marble be pH neutral. Do not use acidic cleaners on your marble or it will scratch and lose shine. This means no vinegar! You can clean your marble floors with a highly diluted mixture of ammonia and water or with a highly diluted mixture of dish soap and water. (No more than 1/2 cup per bucket of water). Once you are finished mopping it is recommended that you dry the floor using a soft, fluffy towel. Because marble is such a porous stone sitting water can seep into the stone and cause stains.

Source: www.MaidBrigade.com

How to Remove Paint From Tile

By an eHow Contributor

It can be tough to remove paint from tile, especially if it's been there for a while. Whether you're trying to restore the tile to its original luster, or just trying to clean up after a sloppy paint job, there are a few things you can do to make the job easier.

Instructions

1
Bring out the heavy chemicals. Most commercial paint removers are equipped to handle the job of removing paint from tiles; they work especially well if the tile is painted over completely. It may take a bit of time and money to get the job done, but this is a no-fail way to clean up those tiles the first time around.

2
Apply a little pressure. If you're just trying to clean up a few spots after painting the walls, use a putty knife or razor blade to scrape the offensive paint off the tile surface. Steel wool or abrasive pads will also work here. You need some patience for this to work properly, but it's much easier than going the chemical route.

3
Use a more natural product if the paint is fairly new. Begin by scrubbing the tile with soapy water and a rag, then rinse it clean. Follow up with a household cleaner like Goo Gone to remove fresh paint spills or spots.

4
Bring out the sander. This is a last-resort kind of option, but if nothing else works, carefully use an electric sander to remove just the top layer of paint.


Source: www.eHow.com

How to Replace a Damaged Tile

By Sarabeth Asaff, eHow Contributor

If the majority of a tile installation is in good shape, there is no reason to tear it out. If there are a few damaged tiles, you can replace damaged tiles quickly and without harm to the surrounding tiles by chiseling out the old tile in minutes, and installing the new tile on the same day. Make sure you purchase not only a matching replacement tile for the job, but also a matching grout color to ensure a seamless installation.


Things You'll Need

• Masking tape
• Nail
• Hammer
• Chisel
• Trowel
• Thin set
• Grout
• Grout float
• Sponge

Instructions

1. Tape off the edges of the surrounding tiles to protect them during the damaged tile's removal. Cover only the tiles themselves, and not the grout joints. You will be replacing the grout along with the damaged tiles.
2. Place a nail in the center of the damaged tile and hit the nail head firmly with a hammer. This will crack the tile into pieces, while breaking it away from the substrate and making it easier for you to remove.
3. Position the chisel in the center of the damaged tile, pointing away from your body at a 45-degree angle. Hit the chisel with the hammer into and under the damaged tile from the center out to the edges of the tile. Bring up both the tile and the mortar, down to the substrate, extending out to the edges of the surrounding tiles.
4. Spread a thin layer of thin set mortar onto the back of the replacement tile with a trowel. Apply only enough mortar to skim coat the back of the tile, not so much that it will come up around the edges of the tile when pressed. Line up the tile with the space left and press it firmly into place. Allow the mortar to dry overnight.
5. Grout the tile into place by spreading the grout across the joints with a grout float. A float is a flat, lightweight tool for pushing the grout into place, and packing it into the joints. Wipe away any excess grout from the surface of the tiles.

Source: www.eHow.com

How to Create a Tile Floor Pattern

By an eHow Contributor

You can create a visual illusion or draw attention to a section of your room with tile floor patterns. Using tiles of the same or different size, as well as matching and coordinating colors, gives you the opportunity to be creative in designing a pattern with your tile flooring that flows, but looks great.

Instructions

1. Map out your ideas. There are many options of patterns you can choose from, such as a checkerboard motif, crosswise design, diagonal or vertical layouts and/or stepping stone or brick weaving patterns. Draw a pattern that you have in mind onto a piece of paper to see how it will work with your tile options.
2. View tile choices. Visit a flooring store, or a home improvement store that sells flooring, to look at the selection of tiles available. This way, you can look at the different sizes of tile options, as well as the material of the tile.
3. Consider different colored tiles. You can select one style of tile to make a floor pattern, or go for a more dramatic look through coordinating tiles of different or similar color pallets.
4. Purchase sample tiles. After selecting the tile you want to create your floor pattern with, buy a small quantity of your tiles to take home to determine that they'll go with your home's style and wall color.
5. Test your pattern. Lay out the sample tiles in the pattern you've mapped out in Step 1. If that initial pattern you chose doesn't seem to be working, choose a different pattern and redesign your test layout.
6. Make your final determination and purchase all the necessary tiles. Measure your room and bring your tile layout with you to make sure you buy the correct number of tiles you're going to need to complete your pattern.

Source: www.eHow.com