How to Refinish Bathroom Ceramic Tile

Refinishing bathroom ceramic tile is not as hard as it looks, but careful consideration should be given, to ensure that the process is done correctly. Understand the fact that bathroom ceramic tiles are not suited for painting applications, and need to be sanded prior to refinishing. This will ensure that the paint will adhere to the surface, and prevent the occurrence of shedding, peeling or cracking paint. You also need to pre-treat the surface with acrylic latex primer, to guarantee a beautiful finish.

What you'll need

• Tile cleanser or cleaner (preferably trisodium phosphate)
• 180-grit sandpaper
• Coarse sponge
• Acrylic latex primer
• Latex paint
• Roller brush
• Latex paint brush
• Cotton rags

Step 1 – Clean the Ceramic Tiles Thoroughly

Wash the ceramic tiles with trisodium phosphate cleanser, or any type of commercially available cleaner that is suited for bathroom ceramic tiles. This will help remove any traces of soap, dirt and grease from the tile surface. Rinse the tiles after treating with the cleanser. Wet rags can be used in the rinsing process. Let dry for at least 3 hours.

Step 2 – Scour the Ceramic Tiles                                    

Use 180-grit sandpaper to chafe the surface of the ceramic tile. This will help the primer adhere firmly to the surface of the tile. Sand the surface, until coarse or slightly rough to the touch. Take time to carefully sand the surface, as this will be detrimental to the success of the project. Never apply primer to bathroom ceramic tile surfaces until the whole area has been sanded. This will help prevent peeling and flaking.

Step 3 – Protect the Surrounding Area

Use newspaper, painter’s tape or pieces of drop cloth to protect nearby areas, prior to applying primer and paint. This will better facilitate the cleaning process after the project, and will protect other bathroom furnishings and fixtures from paint and primer stains.

Step 4 – Apply Acrylic Latex Primer

Use a roller brush to apply an even coat of acrylic latex primer to the tiles. Use a latex paint brush to get rid of roller marks on the tile surface. Use soft strokes, until the latex primer creates a smooth, even surface. Wait at least 2 to 4 hours for the primer to dry.

Step 5 – Apply Latex Paint

Use a separate roller brush to apply a coat of latex paint over the entire tiled surface. Similar to the process of applying primer, use a paint brush to smooth the coat of paint over the tiles. Let the paint dry for 2 to 3 hours before applying a second coat. It would be best to apply 2 to 3 thin coats, to ensure maximum coverage. Let the paint dry completely.

You can choose from a wide variety of colors of paint that will match the overall theme and design of your bathroom. Remember to consider using epoxy paint when refinishing ceramic tiles in the shower, to create a permanent waterproof finish. Using acrylic floor paint is highly recommended when refinishing ceramic tile floors, as floor paint is more durable and resistant to skid marks caused by heavy foot traffic.


Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Restoration of Dirty Quartzite Tiled floor

This Quartzite tiled kitchen floor from a house in Leeds was in need of some attention and as well as a build-up of general dirt it was also affected by cooking oil and Grease. Any sealer that may have been in place had long since worn off and it was time for a good clean and re-seal.

Cleaning Quartzite Tile

I followed the usual process for cleaning floors of this type by applying a dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean, allow it to dwell for a while and then give the floor a good scrub using a rotary machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad. The soiled solution was then removed using a wet vacuum and floor washed down with clean water; sometimes this process needs to be repeated a number of times and often you will need to get into the grout lines by hand with a hard scrubbing brush as a scrubbing pad can float over the surface of the grout.

Sealing Quartzite Tile

Once the floor was dry it was sealed using two coats of Tile Doctor High Shine Sealer which gives leaves a durable high sheen finish together with stain resistance. There are a number of sealers available in the Tile Doctor range including Seal and Go which has a Low Sheen finish and Colour Grow which helps to bring out the colour in the tile; the final selection is a combination of the customer’s requirements and my guidance.
 
 

Source: Quartzite Tiled Kitchen floor cleaned and sealed in Leeds

Laying Ceramic Tile Stairs: What You Should Know

Building ceramic tile stairs isn't much different than laying down a ceramic tile floor. Ceramic tile makes a durable covering for stairs if the stair casing can handle the weight of the mortar, tile and grout.

Installation of Ceramic Tile Stairs

When you install ceramic tile on stairs, it is done in the same way as you would with a wall, or countertop. You spread out a layer of thinset on the subfloor and press the tile into the mortar. The use of plastic spacers will help you keep an even distance between tiles for grout.

Choose the Right Tiles

When you install ceramic tile stairs you will need to pay attention to the difference in tile sizes. Riser tiles and tread tiles are types of ceramic tiles that need special attention. When installing these, you will have to make sure that no tread tile extends over the edge of the stairs. Start with the whole tiles in the rear of the stair tread and then use the cut pieces to fill out the rest. Work with a good design or you will be cutting a lot.

Different Types of Grout

Ceramic tile stairs are not just about the tile. Grout has an important part to play also. Choose the wrong type and you could have several different problems all at once. Know where you want to install your tiles. Some grout works great under a lot of stress, while some grout works best in wetter conditions like in an entryway.

Be Careful with Wooden Stairs

Because of the weight of the ceramic tile, the mortar, and the grouting, standard wooden stairs are not a good match for ceramic tile. Concrete stairs should be used when you are going to use ceramic tiles for the stairs. If you do have wooden stairs, consider using a cement backboard for the tile. However, you will also have to reinforce the stairs themselves to handle the weight.

Different Types of Ceramic Tiles

Ceramic tile stairs require tiles that have a grip to them. Because of the glaze, and the nature of a ceramic tile, they can be very slippery. Chose some tiles that have a little bit of a tread to them. This will help to give your feet, or shoes, something to grip while walking on the treads.

When considering to use ceramic tile stairs you also have to consider the amount of use they are going to receive. If they are going to be in a high traffic area, then you will need to have tiles that are going to  be strong enough to handle the constant pressure. Look for the tiles that are hardened and do not chip, or crack easily. They are are little more costly, but it will be worth it if you do not have to change them all the time.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Cleaning and Sealing Black Slate floor tiles in Ilkley

Details below of a slate floor we cleaned and sealed in the kitchen of a house in Ilkley, West Yorkshire. You can see from the photographs that the large Black Slate floor tiles were looking dull and the grout had become soiled with ingrained dirt.

Cleaning Black Slate Tile Flooring

To remove the remaining sealer and dirt from the Slate Floor Tiles I used a solution of Tile Doctor Remove & Go mixed 50/50 with Tile Doctor Nanotech Ultra-Clean agitated with a rotary scrubbing machine fitted with a scrubbing pad. The grout was particularly stained and given the scrubbing machine isn’t as effective on the grout lines it was necessary scrub in Tile Doctor Pro-Clean Tile and Grout cleaner into the grout lines by hand using a grout scrubbing brush. The floor was then washed down with water to neutralise it and remove any remaining cleaning solution prior to sealing, it had take all day to clean the floor so we decided to let it dry overnight and come back the next day to seal.

Sealing Slate Tile Flooring

The Slate was sealed with several coats of Tile Doctor High Shine Sealer which provides a good combination of stain protection together with a high-sheen finish. Slate needs four to five coats and it’s necessary to let it dry between coats this step can take some time to complete. You can see the different in the photograph below; also notice how the sealer has given the floor a lift; the sealer will also protect the grout from further staining.

 

Source: Black Slate in Ilkley, West Yorkshire cleaned and sealed

How to Make and Apply Your Own Limestone Sealer

Using a natural limestone sealer is not only healthy; it is also safe for the environment. When deciding to seal limestone, make sure that it is necessary because some limestone applications do not need to be sealed at all. Not sealing it will preserve its natural beauty and breathability. However, if it is indeed necessary to provide the limestone with a membrane to protect it from constant staining and water infiltration, then make sure to use eco-friendly products. Here is how to make and apply your own limestone sealer.

What you'll need

• Tung Oil or Linseed Oil
• Beeswax
• Citrus Solvent
• Stirrer
• Container
• Brush
• Spray Bottle
• Cloth

Step 1 – Choosing the Best Sealer

Limestone sealer can be made with linseed oil, Tung oil or beeswax. Linseed oil mix is a good sealer but is recommended only if darkening and discoloration is not an issue. Tung oil mix dries completely and does not cause any discoloration after its application. The last option is beeswax. This product does not need any special mixing procedure and can be used as is.

Step 2 – Mixing the Ingredients

For linseed oil or Tung oil mix, simply mix one part of either product with one part of citrus solvent in a container. Sometimes, mineral spirits can be used as an alternative but only when there are no citrus solvent products available. The mix requires the same proportion of solvent.

Step 3 – Applying the Limestone Sealer

Remember that limestone is a very porous stone so make sure to work on the application as quickly as possible. Never leave a thick coating of the mix on the surface of the stone for a long time because it will be absorbed easily and cause uneven darkening. Dip a cloth in the mix and apply it thinly on the surfaces of the limestone. If not, use a paintbrush or a spray bottle to apply the sealer.

When using linseed, it is very important to spread only a thin layer of the mixture on every coating. Never spread a thick coating because linseed takes longer to dry than Tung oil. Allow the first coating to dry for about 24 hours before applying another coat. At least two or three thin coats of linseed oil mix are ideal.

For Tung oil mix, all coatings except the last should be spread thinly. After applying one or two thin coats of Tung oil mix, apply a thick coat for finishing. While the thin coats may take at least 8 hours to dry, the last thick coat may take about 2 to 4 days before it dries completely.

The beeswax is very easy to apply but it may require constant application. To apply the beeswax, simply place a decent amount on a cloth, spread it on the stone and buff immediately. Be careful not to apply too much wax though.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Install Limestone Fireplace Surrounds

Limestone fireplace surrounds are a great way to finish off a fireplace renovation or new install. The look of the natural stone will add a lot of character to a room and draw people's attention to the beauty of the fireplace. Homeowners today are enjoying the convenience of a pre-fabricated fireplace. However, these are usually sold without any type of surround or finish to them. Limestone fireplace surrounds are perfect for finishing off these more modern fireplaces. Here are the steps to take if you want to install a limestone fireplace surround yourself.

What you'll need

• Tape measure
• Level
• Trowel
• Wet saw
• Chisel
• Rubber mallet
• 2 by 4 Lumber
• Nails
• Hammer
• Limestone slabs
• Stress crack membrane
• Thinset
• Sponges, rags, bucket

Step 1 - Plan Your Fireplace Surround

Using a piece of graph paper and a pencil, plan out the way that you want your fireplace surround to look. You do not have to be extremely detailed at this point, but basic placement of the limestone and how far it will surround your fireplace are some considerations. Take plenty of measurements and take them to the hardware store when you buy your limestone slabs.

Step 2 - Prepare Surface

Before doing any work to the fireplace surround it must be prepared in order to receive the different materials. Clean off the different surfaces around the fireplace and dry it off completely. After the surfaces are clean you must make sure everything is level. If there are any low spots on the floor, or dips in the wall, apply some thinset to level off the surfaces.

Step 3 - Install Stress Crack Membrane

Around the fireplace you will find at least two different materials. The metal of the fireplace itself and the drywall of the wall. They both heat at different rates and can cause cracks in the thinset and limestone. A stress crack membrane will help to keep things even to eliminate the problems with the heating process.

Step 4 - Install Limestone on Hearth

The first place to start is the hearth. Start in the middle of the hearth and start to spread out a thin layer of thinset. Use a notched trowel and spread out enough to receive a couple limestone slabs. Set the limestone into the thinset and give it a little wiggle in order to create a stronger bond. Tap the limestone with a rubber mallet to get rid of any air bubbles and keep it level. Continue installing the limestone on the hearth leaving a 1/8 inch space between each slab.

Step 5 - Cut Limestone to Fit

There will be instances where you need to cut the limestone slabs. Use a wet saw with diamond blade to make each cut after careful measurements have been made.

Step 6 - Install Limestone on Wall

Using the same methods of installation of the limestone on the hearth, begin to finish the limestone fireplace surround by installing the slabs on the wall. Use lumber to brace the limestone so it does not fall before the thinset has a time to bond and set up.

Step 7 - Seal Limestone Fireplace Surround

Your surround is not finished until you grout the seams of the limestone and then seal it. Mix the grout according to directions and spread it over the surface filling all of the cracks and seams. Wipe off the excess. Allow the grout to dry and then apply the sealer. Once there are two coats on the limestone you can enjoy your work.


Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Stain Limestone Tiles

Limestone tiles look lovely in a room or an area. You might decide, though, that you want to color the limestone tiles to match the décor of your house. It’s not a difficult job, although it requires patience. At heart it’s similar to applying color to concrete as both are porous

.
What you'll need

• Safety goggles
• Respirator
• Gloves
• Masking tape
• Wet/dry vac
• Broom
• Paintbrush
• Concrete stain
• Sealer

Step 1 - Cleaning

Clear the entire area and then use a broom to remove al the debris, taking special care to get into corners and all the nooks and crannies. After this, use a wet/dry vacuum on the limestone tiles to take off all the dust and remaining dirt. To complete the preparations, apply making tape to other area where they meet the limestone tiles, such as baseboards. This will prevent the stain splashing on other areas and cut down on the cleanup.

Step 2 - Testing Colors

After selecting the stain for your limestone tiles you need to test it on the tiles. If possible, select a place not on view, such as a closet. Use a solution that’s 1 part stain to 1 part water. Allow it to dry for 3 hours then wipe of any excess stain and inspect the results. Since the color is the product of a reaction, it might not be exactly what you’d seen on the color sample.

Step 3-Washing

Before applying stain to the limestone tiles, wash them thoroughly and allow to dry. This will give you a clean surface for the stain. Remember that the concrete stain is mildly acidic so be sure to wear safety goggles, a respirator mask and gloves for your own protection.

You need to mix the stain in a 1 to 1 ratio and mix fully. As you’re working on limestone tiles, the best way to apply the stain is with a paintbrush on the surface of the tiles. This will require some care, and you should only apply a thin coat. Work in sections on the floor and use the brush to work the stain into the limestone tiles. After you’ve finished, leave the floor to dry for several hours.

Step 4 - Baking Soda

To stop the acidic reaction you need to go over the limestone tiles with a solution of baking soda and water. Use a mop and this solution on the floor and then use the wet/dry vac on the floor to taker up excess water. Allow to dry slightly then go over the floor again with the solution. You might need to do this three times to fully neutralize the acid. Leave overnight to dry completely.

Step 5 - Sealer

It will be easiest if you use a roller to apply the sealer to the limestone tiles, after cutting in around the edges with a paintbrush. Apply one coat and then leave it to dry before putting on a second coat. You’ll see that the sealer gives depth to the stain on the limestone tiles.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Install Travertine Wall Tiles

A decorative material that can accentuate the look of a bathroom, a kitchen or any area in the home is the installation of travertine wall tiles. The travertine tile is made of limestone. Travertine tiles are absorbent in nature, unlike other stones that are more dense and compact, making travertine tiles quite daunting to work with. However, with the right tools and materials you can easily cut, replace and install travertine wall tiles. Below are the materials that you need along with the instructions on how to install travertine wall tiles.

What you'll need

Trowel
Premix thin-set
Level
Measuring tape
1x2 lumber
Tile spacers
Cement board
Grout
Sealer
Grout float
Wet tile saw
Towel
Bucket
Water

Step 1-Preparing the Wall

Prepare the wall where the tiles will be installed by inspecting what materials were used on the wall like drywall, concrete or wood.

Step 2- Determine Tile Layout

Determine the design layout preferred for the travertine tiles so that installation will be properly carried on. Lay out the travertine on the floor exactly how you want travertine tiles to look like on the wall.

Step 3- Marking Center Line

Make a measurement of the top to the bottom of the wall and mark the center line with the use of the measuring tape and level. Attach securely a 1x2 board underneath the center line that will be the support for the row of tiles installed which will constitute the upper half installation.

Step 4- Apply Thin-Set Mortar

Apply premix thin-set mortar with a trowel thinly to the wall and to the back of the travertine tiles. It is important to use a white thin-set mortar on the tiles, not dark colored thin-set to avoid tile discoloration.

Step 5- Install Wall Tiles

Apply the travertine tiles to the location preferred by firmly pressing it to the wall making sure that the thin-set applied on the tiles and the wall will not get mixed. Check that tiles installed are at kept aligned using a level.

Step 6- Tile Spacers/ Adjustments

For even spacing of tiles, use tile spacers in-between each tile. Make necessary adjustments on the spacing of tiles. Determine the right size of the tiles if adjustment is needed on it. Mark the spot for the desired size of the tile and cut it along the marked line using a wet tile saw.

Step 7-Prepare Lower Half Installation

When the thin-set mortar on the upper half of the wall has completely settled, take out the 1x2 board from the wall. Determine the number of whole tiles needed on the lower half using a tape measure.

Step 8-Lower Half Installation

Installation of the lower part of the wall can be done following steps 4 to 6.

Step 9-Grout Paste

Combine water and grout powder in a bucket to make a thick paste. Scrape up grout paste using a grout float and evenly apply this on the space between the tiles. Clean up excess grout while it is still wet and allow for it to dry up.

Step 10-Sealer

Apply sealant on the travertine tiles. Make sure to allow the sealant to dry completely.


Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Victorian Tiled Hallway floor restored in Wigston

This beautiful Victorian tiled floor was discovered under hallway carpet at a house in the town of Wigston in Lincolnshire during a refurbishment. The carpet had been glued to the tile and to make things worse there were paint spots from on the tile from decorating.

Victorian Tiled Floor Restoration

Cleaning tiles can get a little messy so first job was to protect the carpet on the staircase with plastic sheeting secured with masking tape. The next step was to apply a solution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go to the tile, Remove and Go is a stripper and cleaner especially designed for use on Tile and very good at removing old sealers, adhesives and paint. The product does need time to get to work though so I left it on the floor to dwell for 50 minutes before agitating it with a rotary machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad. The soiled solution was removed from the floor using a wet vacuum and the tiled floor was then washed down using a high pressure steamer which gives a final clean as well as neutralising the floor ready for sealing. We made a decision sometime ago to invest in what’s known in the industry as a Truck Mounted pressure washing machine which is a very large industrial high pressure machine that’s so large it has to be installed into a van, it’s been well worth the investment as it does a really good job of cleaning hard floors and carpets.


We left the floor to dry and then sealed it with 4 coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which as well as providing stain protection adds a nice sheen to floor.

 

Source: Victorian Floor Restoration in Wigston, Leicestershire

How to Repair Scratches in Limestone Flooring

Though limestone flooring can be a great option because it looks good while remaining durable, it can still suffer scratches due to its porous nature. In order to keep your floor looking its best, you will need to follow the few steps require to undertake a repair.

What you'll need

• Pieces of limestone
• Epoxy resin
• Sealer
• Paintbrush
• Polishing compound
• Putty knife
• Scraper
• Grout
• Masking tape
• Rags
• Water
• Dustpan and brush

Step 1 – Inspection

The first step required before undertaking the repair of scratches in your limestone flooring is to thoroughly examine it. This will allow you to be aware of any scratches that many not be immediately evident that can be repaired at the same time. If necessary, place a piece of masking tape next to each scratch you find so that you don’t lose track of it.

Step 2 – Clean

In order to make the surface of your limestone flooring ready to accept the repair, you must ensure that it is clean and free from any obstruction. Move any items and furnishings away from the vicinity so that they are not at risk of being damaged. Use a broom or dustpan and brush to sweep up any loose dust and debris. More stubborn grime can be cleaned with a rag that has been dampened with water and a little elbow grease. Allow the floor to thoroughly dry naturally or wipe it with a rag.

Step 3 – Minor Scratches

For minor scratches such as scuff marks, begin by using a mild polishing that is available from hardware stores. This should be gently rubbed over the scratch to smooth the surface, while continually checking the status of it. Once you are happy with the finish, wipe away the compound with a damp cloth before brushing on some sealant. This is required to renew that which has been removed with the abrasive and protect the repair. Freshly mixed grout can be used as an alternative in this process.  

Step 4 – Deeper Scratches

Scratches in the limestone flooring that cannot be rectified with the above process will require a little more work to repair. An epoxy resin can be mixed until it matches the color of your limestone floor. A putty knife can be used to gather up a small amount of the epoxy to apply it to the scratch until it has been filled. The surface can be smoothed by running a scraper across it to remove the excess. Leave this to dry completely before sealing the scratch by brushing on some sealant.  

Step 5 – Severe Scratches

In the event that your limestone flooring has suffered scratches which are severe enough to be classed as gouges or chips, you will require spare slivers or ships of the limestone to repair. Flooring suppliers will often be able to supply fragments of limestone that can be used for repair. Apply the fragments with some epoxy and carefully wipe away the excess when they are securely in place. Leave it to thoroughly dry before sealing the repair site.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Tips for Laying Limestone Floor Tiles

Limestone floor tiles are ideal for bathrooms and kitchen floors. They come in various colors to suit the theme of any household. When laying them, some tips will come in handy if you want a perfect job done:

The Surface should be Clean

It is advisable to sweep the area, especially when installing on a surface that has been in use for a long time. If the stone particles are not removed, they will uneven the flooring laid and provide leakage points for water and other fluids. They will also lead to misuse of more materials.

Cut the Edges

In most cases, the walls may not be straight and the limestone floor tiles may require cutting for compatibility with the walls. The easy way is to lay them first in order to calculate the area that needs cutting in order to minimize wastage.

Maintain Symmetry

The limestone floor tiles should be placed along straight lines for even flooring or there will be uncovered corners in the room. This is possible by working with small sections, thus avoiding doing repeat jobs on large surfaces in the house. In case there is a pattern that is expected, they can be laid in that order before fixing them onto the surface.


Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Repair Chips and Cracks in Limestone Floors

Limestone floors are a handsome and durable flooring choice. Although of considerable strength, limestone can still be subject to damages such as minor chips and cracks. If you notice such faults in your limestone flooring and you want to return it back to its former glory, you can undertake a DIY repair, saving yourself the cost of a professional
.
What you'll need

• Brush 
• Dustpan 
• Epoxy resin 
• Grout 
• Masking tape 
• Paintbrush 
• Pieces of limestone 
• Polish 
• Putty knife 
• Rags 
• Scraper 
• Sealant 
• Water

Step 1 – Clearing the Area

Before getting down on your knees, remove all furniture and other home furnishings that might be on the repair area. This will allow you to have an unobstructed view of the entire floor area as well as prevent any damages that can be done on your valuable furniture.

Step 2 – Inspecting the Limestone Floor

The first task on the repair should always be the inspection of the floor area. Check it thoroughly to identify all cracks and dents and if there are many, mark them with masking tape.

Step 3 – Cleaning the Area

To make the repair more effective, clean the surface of your limestone floor as well. Make sure that it is spotlessly clean and devoid of obstructions. Sweep up any dust and debris. For stubborn grimes use a damp rag and some elbow grease, and wipe the floor thoroughly Wait until the floor dries naturally or you can wipe it dry with a rag if you are in a hurry.

Step 4 – Repairing Minor Damages

For chips and cracks that are very shallow and minor, you can make use of a mild polish that you can purchase from local hardware. Rub the product gently over the crack or chip so that you can have a smoother surface. Once you are satisfied with the result, wipe off the polish with a damp cloth and then brush on a sealant. This is to protect the repair that you have made. Alternatively, you can make use of grout that has been freshly mixed.

Step 5 – Repairing Deeper Faults

If there are deeper cracks or chips on the limestone that cannot be corrected through the previous step, you can make use of epoxy resin that has been mixed until its color is the same as that of your limestone floor. Apply the compound on cracks and chips with a putty knife. For deeper damages, you can make use of chips or slivers of limestone. Use the fragments to fill deeper cavities together with epoxy. Once you have the pieces secured, wipe off the excess glue. Allow complete drying before applying the sealant.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Pros and Cons of Limestone Flooring

Installing limestone flooring in your home could be something to consider. Here are a few of the pros and cons associated with using limestone flooring.

Pros: Cost and Looks

The cost of limestone flooring is going to be less expensive than many other natural stone options that you have. While it will be more expensive than a ceramic or porcelain tile, it is going to be less than purchasing granite or marble for your floor. This allows you to get a natural stone floor for less money than you would pay otherwise.

Limestone can provide you with a very beautiful look that is applicable in a number of different situations. Limestone has been used as flooring for centuries and can provide you with a very rustic and old world look.

Cons: Sealing and Durability

Limestone is a natural substance and therefore is very porous. If you are going to use it as a flooring option, you will have to seal it periodically for best results. Otherwise, it could stain and look bad within a short period of time.

Compared to other natural stones, limestone is one of the softer products available on the market. This means, that you should avoid putting it in high-traffic areas as it could chip or break.


Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Remove Carpet Glue From Hardwood Floors

By an eHow Contributor

A floor glue is necessary to bond carpeting to a solid foundation. This adhesive is highly resilient once it has dried, and often remains tacky even after the carpet has been lifted. A chemical remover is required to dissolve the carpet glue since it typically cannot be removed using ordinary cleaning methods. Along with specific tools, the solvent will help restore the underlying hardwood to its bare condition.

Things You'll Need

• Pot
• Respirator
• Adhesive remover
• Long-handled scraper
• Push broom
• Garbage bag
• Mop
• Soap

Instructions

1

Boil a small pot of water that is easy enough to carry. Bring it to the hardwood floor and carefully poor the hot water over a manageable area of the carpet glue; the heat softens the adhesive and allows it to dissolve more easily.

2

Wear a respirator and thoroughly ventilate the area. Open all the windows nearby and place an electric fan in the workspace to improve circulation if necessary.

3

Apply an adhesive remover to the softened glue according to the manufacturer's directions; varieties of this chemical solution are available in nontoxic formulas from home improvement retailers. Leave the remover to set into the glue for the time instructed on the product label.

4

Loosen the softened carpet glue with a long-handled scraper. The process can be time-consuming but is necessary to lift all of the residue.

5

Sweep the floor with a push broom to clear the excess residue from the hardwood. Properly dispose of it in a garbage bag and mop the floor with a mild soap or detergent for cleaning.

Source: www.eHow.com

Tile and Grout Cleaned and Sealed in Hallaton

This beautiful Terrazzo tiled floor in a house in Hallaton, Leicestershire had been left in a bad condition by messy builders who had failed to protect it and left it looking dull and stained with cement and paint.

Cleaning and Polishing a Terrazzo Tiled Floor

Terrazzo is a very hard surface so we used a set of 17” diamond encrusted burnishing pads to cut the surface back to its original appearance. There are four pads in the set which fit a rotary machine, the first pad is red and is used together with a little water to remove sealers. You then move onto the white pad which is the first polishing pad and designed to remove ingrained dirt, next you use the yellow pad which polishes the surface further and can smooth rough surfaces. Before applying the final polishing pad it’s necessary to tackle the grout with Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which is a powerful alkaline cleaner specially designed for use on Tile and Grout where acidic products can harm the tile. Unfortunately machinery struggles in this area and so it’s necessary to tackle this problem by hand using a stiff brush.


The final polishing of the Terrazzo Tile floor was done using a Green 17" Twister Pad and a small amount of water to give a deep high shine finish. The floor was rinsed down to remove any soil and particles from the polishing and allowed to dry before sealing the Tile Doctor Ultra-Seal which is a penetrating sealer recommended for both Terrazzo and Grout formulated to provide maximum stain protection.    

Source: Restoration of Tile and Grout in Hallaton

How to Remove Grout From Porous Tile

By Sarabeth Asaff, eHow Contributor

If you are installing porous tiles, such as marble, granite or slate, always seal them prior to grouting them. If the tiles are not sealed, the grout can seep out the many tiny holes and crevices in the tile and fill them. Once the grout begins to set, it can be difficult to get the grout out of these crevices again. You can remove dried grout from tiles within 2 to 3 weeks of the installation. After this time, the grout will cure. Depending on the type of tile, type of grout and how long it has been on the tile, you may need to take multiple steps to get the grout up.

Things You'll Need

• Green scouring pads
• Alkaline cleaners
• Water
• Grout sponges
• 4-inch razor blades
• Paper towels
• Warm water
• Sugar
• Acid grout stripper
• Rubber gloves
• Baking soda

Instructions
1
Pour some alkaline cleanser directly onto the tiles and work the area with a green scouring pad, moving the pad in a circular motion over the grout. Rinse with water by pouring fresh water over the surface repeatedly as the grout begins to come up. Wipe up excess water and grout with a grout sponge.

2
Scrape the grout from the tiles with a long-handled 4-inch razor blade. Push the blade across the tiles toward the grout joints, taking care to stop just at the joint to avoid removing the grout from the joint.

3
Wash the tiles again with an alkaline cleanser and scouring pad. Rinse well with fresh water, and clean up the area with a grout sponge.

4
Dissolve one cup of sugar into a gallon of warm water. Soak several paper towels in the sugar water, and lay them over the grout-covered tiles. Leave the paper towels on the tiles to soak into the pores for two hours.

5
Rinse the tiles with fresh water to remove the sugar, and wipe the tiles clean with a grout sponge.

6
Apply an acid grout stripper to the tiles to remove any stubborn grout. Test the stripper in an inconspicuous area first to make sure it will not remove the finish from the tiles as well. Use the stripper with a green scouring pad to pull the grout from the tiles, wearing gloves as you work with the acid.

7
Rinse the tiles with warm water, and allow them to air dry.

8
Sprinkle a layer of baking soda over the tiles to neutralize any acids remaining on the tiles before you allow bare skin to come into contact with the tiles.

9
Rinse the tiles with fresh water and allow to air dry before you allow contact with the tiles.


Source: www.eHow.com

How to Grout Porous Stone Tiles

By Kimberly Johnson, eHow Contributor

Grouting is the process of filling in the gaps between tiles. This not only makes the installation more attractive, but prevents moisture from damaging the tile. Since grout is applied on the entire top of the tile, problems occur when the tile is made of porous stone. The stone often absorbs the grout before you can wipe if off, causing stains or a hazy appearance. To prevent this, seal the tile before applying grout.

Things You'll Need

• Grout release agent
• Foam paint brush
• Buckets
• Grout
• Water
• Grout float
• Sponge

Instructions
1
Open a bottle of a grout release agent that is designed for the specific type of stone the tile is constructed of. Apply the liquid in a thin coat over the surface of each stone tile after it is mortared to the floor. Wait for the amount of time indicated on the release agent bottle before continuing.

2
Fill a bucket with a bag of dry grout and mix it with water as instructed by the directions. You can also buy a bucket of premixed grout which only require stirring up.

3
Insert a grout float into the grout and scoop up 1 cup. Place the grout onto the stone tile and pull the float toward you to push the grout into the grooves of the tile.

4
Continue applying grout until all of the grooves are filled to the top of the tiles.

5
Scrape the bottom of the grout float on top of the bucket to remove excess grout. Place the grout float back on the floor and hold it at a 45-degree angle. Scrape it over the surface of all of the tiles to remove excess grout.

6
Fill a clean bucket half full of warm water. Insert a sponge into the water and wring it out as much as possible. Wipe the sponge over each of the grout lines to smooth them out. Do not press down on the grout, simply move the sponge over them gently.

7
Rinse the sponge and wipe the surface of all of the stone tiles to remove the excess grout. Rinse the sponge frequently and replace the water in the bucket when it turns cloudy.

8
Wait for 10 to 15 minutes to see if a haze forms on the stone tile. If so, rinse the tiles again with fresh water and a sponge to remove the haze.



Source: www.eHow.com

How to Install a Porous Stone Tile Backsplash

By Tim Anderson, eHow Contributor

Natural stone tile backsplashes are rapidly becoming one of the most popular types of backslashes installed in kitchens around the nation because of their rugged beauty. The natural defects in porous stones such as tumbled marble and travertine create an aesthetic that man-made products cannot compare to, but the stones' rough texture and imperfections require additional forethought and planning in the installation process.

Things You'll Need

• Tile wet saw
• Mastic adhesive
• Notched trowel
• Pencil
• Tape measure
• Tile spacers
• Tile wedges
• Tile sponge
• Bucket (3 gallon or larger)

Instructions

1. File the outside edges of the backsplash as well as against the counter top and leave any cuts against the underside of the cabinets and in the corners. The easiest way is to install the entire bottom row from the outside starting point into the corner and then work your way up from there, stacking the tiles into the bottom edge underneath the cabinet.
2. Spread an even layer of mastic adhesive with the notched trowel, only smearing enough mastic for a few tiles at the time to avoid giving the mastic time to “tack” up and thus ruin the stickiness of the adhesive. Place a piece of the porous, natural stone into the mastic and apply pressure. This process may be repeated for each additional piece of natural stone.
3. Use a combination of tile spacers and tile wedges to provide the space for grout joints between each piece of tile. While a tile spacer may be enough for some pieces, the imperfections within the natural stone can often create pieces that are slightly different in terms of dimensions, and the tile wedges can be used to help work around these slight imperfections and create roughly even-sized grout joints.
4. Fill the bucket with warm water and then dampen your sponge to remove any excess mastic that will bleed through the porous holes in the natural stone. This is done to prevent any mastic from showing through the holes once the installation has been completed. Clean the surface of each installed tile within 10 minutes at most of installation; otherwise, the mastic can set up and make it significantly more difficult to clean.
5. Use the tile wet saw to make any necessary cuts against the bottom edge of the cabinets and into the corners where the backsplashes meet (if necessary), as well as around any electrical outlets. The tape measure and pencil can be used to measure and mark any cuts prior to cutting on the saw.
6. Allow a minimum of 24 hours before sealing and grouting the natural stone tile backsplash.

Tips & Warnings

• A typical 12-by-12 tile requires a 3/8-inch notched trowel. Larger tiles will require a larger notch, and smaller tiles a smaller notch.
• Tile spacers come in a variety of widths depending upon the personal preference of the owner relating to the size of grout joints. Tile wedges are spacers that allow for minimal adjustments in the case of natural stone, since pieces can vary in size and thus require additional manipulation.
• All materials and tools can be purchased or rented from your local home improvement store.
• Be sure to turn off all electrical current to the outlets in the backsplash before installing the tile. Always be sure to wear protective gear when working with a tile wet saw, such as safety glasses and earplugs.

Source: www.eHow.com

Old Terracotta Tiled Kitchen floor hidden under carpet in Oadby

Details here of a customer who had discovered old Terracotta tiled floor that had been hidden under carpet in the kitchen of their house in the village of Oadby Leicestershire. The carpet had been glued to the Terracotta tile which as you can see was in quite a state, the tiles also had grout haze on the surface of the tile which may have been the reason for covering them up in the first place.

Restoring Terracotta Floor Tiles

First step was to remove the carpet adhesive and grout haze which we did using a special coatings and sealer remove product called Tile Doctor Remove and Go which is a multi-purpose stripper and cleaner. We applied Remove and Go to the whole floor and then covered it with a plastic sheet and left it to dwell on the floor for around 12 hours so it could really get to work. When we returned we gave the floor a good scrub and rinsed off with clean water to neutralise the floor ready for sealing.

Sealing Terracotta Floor Tiles

The floor was dried and then sealed with six coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which is recommended for Terracotta tiled floors as it brings out the deep red colour in the tile with an attractive durable low sheen combined with stain protection whilst allowing vapour to transmission through the sealer, something you need if the floor is old and your not sure if a damp proof course has been installed. You can see from the photographs what a fantastic transformation we achieved, naturally the customer was very pleased.

   

Source: Terracotta Tile renovation in Leicestershire

How to Seal a Travertine Back Splash

By Sarabeth Asaff, eHow Contributor

Travertine is a form of limestone with a warm and rich color palette. For this reason, travertine is frequently installed on the backsplash of many kitchen designs. The purpose of the backsplash is to protect the wall from splatters, so the travertine will need to be protected as well since it is porous and susceptible to staining. Travertine can be sealed both prior to grouting, and on an ongoing basis as part of your home's yearly maintenance.


Things You'll Need

• Sealer made for porous stone
• Foam paint roller
• Wide dish or tray
• Absorbent cotton cloths

Instructions
1
Pour the sealer out of the bottle into a dish or tray wide enough for a paint roller to be dipped into. Soak a foam paint roller in the sealer and roll it over the edge of the tray to remove any drips.

2
Roll the sealer onto the travertine, starting just below the cabinets and working down to the counter to avoid drips. If sealer gets on the counter, wipe it up with an absorbent cloth. Let the sealer soak into the travertine for 10 minutes.

3
Buff the travertine with an absorbent cotton cloth. Begin below the cabinets and work down to the counter, moving the cloth in a circular motion to remove any sealer than was not absorbed into the stone.


Source: www.eHow.com

How to Install Ceramic Wall Tile

Ceramic tile is a versatile and durable finishing material. Tiles can be installed as a floor or wall covering nearly anywhere, but they are especially useful in bathrooms and kitchens. Tiled walls can resist moisture and handle scrubbing much more readily than drywall or other materials, and so they are the ideal choice for humid bathrooms and kitchens where they will be exposed to cooking splatters. Learning how to install ceramic wall tile is a task well within the reach of an average homeowner. The process requires only a few tools and materials.

Things You'll Need

• Flat head screwdriver
• Coarse-grit sandpaper
• Cloth
• Water
• Tile mastic or thinset mortar
• V-notched trowel
• Ceramic tiles
• Tile spacers
• Snap tile cutter
• Tile grout
• Rubber grout trowel
• Sponge

Steps
1.
Prepare the wall for the ceramic tile. Begin preparing the wall by removing any outlet covers and switch plates. Roughen the surface of the wall by sanding it with coarse-grit sandpaper; this will help to improve adhesion when you install the tile. Use a damp rag to clear away the dust left from sanding.

2.
Apply tile mastic or thinset mortar to the wall. Ceramic tiles can be adhered to a wall using either of 2 products: tile mastic or thinset mortar. The application process is the same for both products. Use a V-notched trowel (sometimes sold as a "tiling trowel") to spread some of the mortar onto the wall, covering an area just big enough to lay in about 8 tiles.

• Hold the notched trowel at a shallow angle against the wall, so that the notches on one of its long sides dig grooves into the mortar. Use long, sweeping motions to apply the mortar.
• It is best to start applying the mortar along an edge of your wall (such as the area where a tile backsplash meets the countertop). Installing your first few tiles along this straight edge will ensure that your overall tile pattern is not crooked.

3.
Install the ceramic tiles. To install your first tile, align one of its edges with the edge of the wall. Making sure that it is straight, push it firmly into the thinset mortar to seat it. Installing each successive tile is easier if you use tile spacers - small X-shaped plastic pieces that fit between corners of tiles and ensure an even spacing of all joints.

• Keep installing tiles by lining them up and pressing them firmly into the mortar. Once you have reached the edges of the area where you applied the mortar, repeat the process by applying another equal-sized area of mortar and applying about 8 more tiles. This process keeps the mortar from curing too quickly.
• Install each tile in this manner until you reach the other edges of the wall. Most likely, you will need to cut the final tiles smaller to get them to fit against the other edges.

4.
Cut any tiles that need to be trimmed to fit your pattern. The final row of tiles in either direction will likely need to be cut to size. Begin by holding the full tile up to the area where it needs to be installed, and marking a pencil line where it will need to be cut. The most economical way to cut straight lines in tiles is using a snap tile cutter. Run the scoring wheel firmly over the pencil line on the tile and then snap it cleanly along the score mark. The cut tiles can then be installed as usual.

• Many home improvement stores run tool rental programs through which you can rent a snap tile cutter by the day. For bigger jobs, consider using a wet tile saw. If you anticipate multiple tiling projects, you may want to purchase a tile saw of your own.
• If you need to make cuts in any shape other than a straight line, you will need to use a wet tile saw that can notch cuts partially through a tile. This is helpful for making rectangular cutouts to fit tile around an electrical outlet.

5.
Grout the joints between the tiles. After allowing the mortar to cure for about 24 hours, you are ready to fill in the joints with grout. Use unsanded grout for joints narrower than 1/8 inch (3 mm), and sanded grout for joints wider than this. Mix the grout in a clean plastic bucket according to the package directions.

• Use a rubber grout float to scoop a small amount of grout out of the bucket. Run the float across the surface of the tile, pressing firmly to work it fully into each joint. Running the float diagonally with respect to the joints provides the best results.

6.
Clean the ceramic tiles after grouting. When each joint has been filled with grout, you can clean the excess grout from the surface of the tiles. Do this by rubbing the tiles gently with a sponge and water, rinsing often. Working diagonally to the joints will keep you from lifting any grout out from between the tiles. After about half an hour, the grout will be cured and a hazy film will develop over the tiles. Buff this film away using a clean, dry cloth.


Tips

• If you notice a skin forming on top of the thinset mortar or tile mastic, do not install tiles over it. Scrape it off using a paint scraper and apply fresh mortar before continuing.
• In wet environments, it is best to apply a bead of silicone caulking around the borders of the tile installation.
• Ceramic tiles can be applied to nearly any surface, including both painted and unfinished drywall. However, for the best adhesion, consider installing cement backer board underneath the tiles.

Source: www.WikiHow.com

How to Eliminate Musty Odors Naturally

By Alicia Bodine, eHow Contributor

Musty odors are unpleasant and can quickly take over the entire house. To address a musty smell naturally, you must first find the cause of the odor and take measures to address the cause. Cleaning the area, decreasing the humidity and lowering the temperatures will help. Once this is done, you can focus on getting rid of musty odor. You can accomplish this with all natural products.

Things You'll Need

• Baking soda
• Lemons
• Pot
• Vinegar
• Spray bottle
• Cedar chips
• Bowl

Instructions
1
Open several containers of baking soda and set them around the house. Baking soda is an excellent odor eliminator. You can also sprinkle some baking soda on the floors and sweep or vacuum it up the next day.

2
Cut two to three lemons in to wedges. Set them in a pot of water and bring the pot to a boil. This will help rid a kitchen and surrounding rooms of a musty smell.

3
Pour straight vinegar in an empty spray bottle. Spray around every room that has a musty odor. Vinegar is another odor eliminator that has the power to get rid of even the strongest smells.

4
Sprinkle cedar chips in a few bowls and set them around the house. The cedar chips have a strong odor of their own that will overpower the musty odor.


Tips & Warnings

• Open your windows to introduce fresh air in to the house.
• If the musty smell is coming from an old set of books, stick a few dryer sheets in between the pages.

Source: www.eHow.com

How to Clean Up Liquid Soap/Detergent Spills

Cleaning up a soap spill can be a real headache. Our first thought is to mop it up, but adding water only makes the problem worse. Here are the steps and a helpful tips to tackle this mess and clean it up as quickly as possible.

Cleaning Up Soap Spills on Solid Flooring

You Will Need:

• Kitty litter
• Salt
• Soft cloths
• Paper towels
• Bucket
• Water
• Mop
• Dustpan

Steps to Clean Up the Spill:

1. When a spill happens on a hard floor, there are several ways to absorb it first.
2. Kitty litter makes a great absorbent. Cover the soap spill with the litter and allow it to sit and absorb the moisture.
3. Use paper towels to push the moistened litter into a dustpan and dispose of it.
4. Repeat if needed.
5. If no kitty litter is available, use salt to absorb the soap with the same method as above.
6. Use dry paper towels of soft cloths to wipe up as much of the soap as possible.
7. When a majority of the soap is removed, you are ready to tackle the remaining film. Soap is concentrated and suds up greatly when water is added.
8. Fill a bucket with plain water.
9. Use a mop to clean the remaining soap off of the floor. Rinse the mop frequently and change the water as needed to keep lifting the soap from the floor.
10. If excessive suds begin to form, vegetable oil can be used to reduce them. Both will be removed during the cleaning process.
11. Once the floor is clean, dry it with a soft cloth.
12. Allow it to air dry completely.
13. If there is residue or a sticky film remaining, the floor needs to be mopped again.

Source: www.HowToCleanStuff.net

Sealing Limestone

Sealing limestone is very important if you want to protect your limestone floor from any unwanted staining.

If you have a limestone tiled floor, you know that it absorbs liquids very quickly.

Although sealing limestone won't completely stop liquids from absorbing into it, it will give you more time to wipe up spills.

The porosity of limestone will differ greatly from a polished finish to a honed finish.

Honed finishes will be much more porous than the polished finishes.

Our recommendation would be sealing limestone when it's first installed and sealing after a deep cleaning every year, depending on your foot traffic.

If you don't have a lot of traffic moving through your limestone floors, you can wait two or even three years.

One thing about limestone you should be aware of is that limestone is a calcium based stone like marble and is susceptible to etching by any acidic liquid.

Sealing limestone will not protect it from etching, so caution should be used with any acidic liquid (e.g. orange juice).

How to Seal Limestone

Sealing limestone is not very complicated and if you take your time and clean it properly before you seal it, you shouldn't have any problems. 

The first thing you need to know before doing anything to your floor is find out if there is any kind of coating on the floor. If there is a coating it needs to be stripped off, which is a different process than described below.

Clean your limestone thoroughly with a neutral cleaner or if it's badly soiled, you can use an akaline stone cleaner to break down dirt and grease build-up.

Once the limestone surface is clean, dry it with a cotton or microfiber cloth. It's very important the limestone is dry before any sealer is applied. In some cases, if the limestone is more porous, it may need 24 to 72 hours to dry before applying a sealer.

If you're sure the limestone is completely dry, you can apply the sealer evenly using a lamb's wool applicator or any soft cloth. Honed or textured limestone will require more sealer due to it being more porous than a polished limestone.

Not all sealers behave the same and if you're using a water based sealer, it will take longer to dry compared to a solvent based sealer. It's important not to let the sealer puddle up as any unwanted residue can dry up and even stain some stones.

Let the sealer absorb into the limestone for at least 15 to 30 minutes not letting dry on the surface. You want to see the sealer beginning to dry on the limestone, but not completely before removing any residue.

Depending on the porosity of the limestone you can apply a second coat of sealer. Remove sealer residue with either a microfiber or cotton cloth, making sure to remove all excess sealer. You don't want to see any streaks left by the sealer

If you do see streaks left by the sealer, re-activate the sealer with some more sealer, and then buff off.

Maintaining Limestone

Maintaining limestone can be easy, as long as you know what cleaners are best and how to use them. 

When cleaning limestone we recommend using a neutral floor cleaner. Neutral meaning neautral pH or pH of 7 on the pH scale. 

For daily cleaning, use a microfiber mop, with warm water and your neutral cleaner. Mop your floor and dry with dry mop. When it comes to cleaning and sealing limestone or cleaning ceramic tile and grout, we strive to help educate our customers on the best protection they can have, helping them save time and money in costly restoration costs down.

Source: www.Intergrity-Tile-and-Grout-Cleaning.com

Restoration of Kitchen Quarry Tile in Coundon, Coventry

These Quarry tiles were in the kitchen of a house in Coundon, Coventry; the owner of the house found them hidden under a carpet and was keen to restore them. You can see from the photograph below they had been seriously neglected, covered in paint and cement and then finally carpet adhesive.

Restoring Quarry Tiles

First the quarry tiled floor was dry vacuumed to remove loose soil and particles from the surface. It was then cleaned using Tile Doctor Grout Clean-Up which is an acid based product useful for the removal of grout from the surface of the tile and in this case cement. The solution was worked into the tile using a buffing machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad. The soiled solution was removed using a wet vacuum and then rinsed with water; the process had to be repeated a second time before we were happy with the result.

 

 The next step in the cleaning process was to use a powerful industrial steam cleaner on the surface of the quarry tiles, as well as cleaning the steam had the added advantage of neutralising the floor before sealing.

Quarry Tile Sealing

The floor was now clean and the hot steam soon evaporated so it wasn’t long before we set about sealing the Quarry Tiles with four coats for Tile Doctor Seal and Go which combines stain resistance with a durable low-sheen finish.
 

Source: Quarry Tile Restored in Coventry

How to Clean Onyx Tile

By Larry Simmons, eHow Contributor

Onyx tile is a soft, calcareous stone tile. Composed primarily of calcium carbonate, cleaning onyx tiles with an acidic-based cleanser can damage them. Because of this, cleansers and methods used for other tile types are unsuitable for cleaning onyx tiles. Using a pH-neutral cleanser, along with frequent cleaning, can keep your tile looking fresh and extends the life of the tiled surface by years.


Things You'll Need

• Cloth
• Dust mop
• pH-neutral cleaner
• Bucket
• Sponge
• Rope mop

Instructions
1
Clean the surface of the onyx tiles using a clean, lint-free dry cloth or dust mop. Wipe any loose dirt or debris from the surface of the tiles, working in a single direction.

2
Dilute a pH-neutral cleanser in a bucket of warm water, combining the mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions. Use a cleanser made specifically for use with calcareous stone tiles. Use a damp sponge or rope mop to go over the surface of the onyx tiles, cleaning the tiles briskly, but not allowing the water to puddle. Use a light pressure on the tiles, as firm pressure applied to ingrained dirt may scratch the onyx.

3
Rinse the surface of the cleaned tiles with clean water to remove any residue from the pH-neutral cleanser. Wipe away the cleanser in a single direction to avoid displacing cleanser over areas already rinsed off.

4
Dry the surface of the tiles with a cloth to prevent streaks from developing due to air-drying. Pat the tiles dry with the cloth rather than pushing the cloth during the drying process.


Tips & Warnings

• Prevent staining of onyx tiles by blotting up all spills immediately.
• Protect floor-tiled surfaces by using a non-slip mat or area rug at the entrances to high-traffic areas.

Source: www.eHow.com

Caring for the Surfaces of Your Home

The surfaces of homes and businesses are what guests and clients see when they enter the space. Dirty or dull surfaces can under whelm clients and make guests uncomfortable. They can also be unhealthy for people living in homes and working in businesses. Therefore, it is very important not to only clean surfaces, but to care for them as well. With simple tools, such as the various types of floor machines and carpet cleaning machines, the surfaces of homes and businesses can become pleasing to the eye and healthy for those using them.

Caring for Bare Floors

Bare floors have no protection from walking traffic, busy children, crawling babies, pets, etc. They also have no protection from the discerning eye of guests and clients. To impress clients, keep guests comfortable and children safe, bare floors should be clean, shiny and free from dangerous imperfections, such as splinters and cracks. Regular washing, buffing and polishing will make bare floors look good, be safe and protect them from floor destroyers, such as spills, heels and rolling chairs. A good floor buffer can do all of the cleaning, polishing and protecting any bare floor needs.

Keeping a Clean Carpet

Carpets, while protecting bare floors and small children, are easily damaged by traffic and spills. Furthermore, failing to deep clean a carpet can leave it stained over time. A dirty carpet inside a business looks sloppy. Businesses want to present themselves as competent. A dirty carpet says the opposite. Inside the home, a dirty carpet can be unhealthy for children and pets. It can trap dirt, allergens and even parasites, like fleas. That is why it is important to vacuum carpets frequently and use a carpet cleaning machine whenever a carpet starts to look a little dingy. This will stop usage stains from setting in.

Clean Countertops for Good Health

Countertops are typically the place where people put their food, their hands, their personal belongings, such as keys and purses. If these surfaces are not cleaned regularly, they can transfer bacteria and other illnesses between people when food or hands touch them. Countertops are also typically below eye level and draw attention. If a business or home has dirty countertops, people will notice. Care for countertops by using disinfectant cleaners and keeping grout clean and complete. For example, if the grout is coming up, fix it, or the problem will only get worse.

Don’t Forget Walls and Doorframes

Walls are often neglected when people care for surfaces in their homes and businesses. People focus on the surfaces where we place items or on floors, which become obviously dirty. Walls should have the same kind of care, but typically
do not require it as often. As any parent with young children can testify, people lean on walls and touch walls with their hands. They may leave behind greasy, dirty fingerprints and germs. Neither a home nor a business looks good with dirty walls. Care for walls by keeping the paint fresh and using paint that is easy to clean. From there, it is a simple matter of using a mild spray cleaner and soft rag to wipe down the walls.

Doorframes are another largely neglected surface of homes and businesses. Like walls, people often lean on them and touch them. Items brush up against them as people pass through as well. Keeping up with doorframes is the same as keeping up with walls. Make sure the paint looks fresh and is easy to clean. The use of a mild spray cleaner or a bucket of soap and water to wipe them down are all that is needed when they need cleaning.

Keeping surfaces clean is not difficult. Caring for them is simply a matter of maintenance and sufficient washing or vacuuming with the right products. This can help eliminate odours and bacteria/allergens in homes and businesses. It can also make the room in question look more presentable, homely or professional, and ensure people enjoy their stay and want to come back.

Source: www.RafterTales.com

Porcelain Tile Deep Cleaning at a Hotel Health Club

Some further photographs below of work we did at a London Hotel in the West End where we removed staining from the Limestone laid in reception. These photographs relate to the cleaning of a Porcelain Tiled floor laid in the Health Club changing rooms which although in good condition were in need of a heavy duty clean.

Deep Cleaning Porcelain Tiles

Unlike stone Porcelain Tile is a relatively straight forward surface to clean. It does help however if you have the right tools and products for the job as household tools and products can struggle. For this floor we applied a 50/50 mix of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean and NanoTech Ultra Clean diluted with three parts water to the dry surface. The solution was left on the surface to dwell for 30 minutes to allow it to penetrate the heavy soiling on the floor. During this time the product was scrubbed in using black polypropylene floor pads on a slow speed orbital scrubber. The soiled cleaning solution was extracted using a wet vacuum before rinsing with clean water. A second clean using the Tile Doctor Grout Clean-Up was applied diluted with three parts water and the scrubbing process repeated. This was needed in order to penetrate deeper into the porcelain tile and also to remove any calcium (limescale) deposits from the surface. The soiled solution was extracted again using a wet vacuum and then each tile was carefully rinsed using a fan jet power wash to fully flush the tiles and finally wet vacuumed to dry.


You can see from the photographs the difference deep cleaning made to the Porcelain floor, not only did we manage to restore their natural appearance and texture but there was a significant improvement in the wet slip resistance of the tile surface. The work was all completed out of hours between 22.00hr and 06.00 hrs so that there was no disruption to the hotel or health club guests.

   

Source: Deep Cleaning Porcelain tiles at a Health Club

How to Tile a Concrete Floor

By eHow Contributor

Concrete floors are the ideal surface to lay tile on. The surface is hard, flat and easy to clean. Tiling a concrete floor will leave a lasting impression in whatever room you choose to makeover. Here's how to tile a concrete floor:

Things You'll Need

• tiles and spacers
• level
• pencil
• tile adhesive
• floor patch and leveler compound
• notched trowel
• tile cutter
• grout
• rubber float
• sponge
• acid based solution for roughing up the concrete
• knee pads

Instructions

1. A concrete floor must be thoroughly cleaned before laying tile on top of it - any old paint, fillers, glues or sealants need to be removed prior to tile installation. Also be sure to remove any dust, mop the concrete floor with water and allow it to dry completely. If the concrete floor is smooth, treat it with an acid based solution to roughen it up before you lay tile on top of it.
2. Be sure to fill any holes and smooth out any bumps on the concrete floor before laying tile on top of it (use a floor patch and leveler compound from your local home improvement store). Use a leveler to ensure the surface is flat.
3. Find the center of the concrete floor and 'dry fit' the tiles to see if the pattern ends similarly on the edges. Use a pencil to mark vertical and horizontal lines where appropriate. You want the tile size to be consistent as they approach each end point when laying tile on a concrete floor.
4. Apply the tile adhesive with the notched trowel, starting in the middle of the concrete floor. Lay the tiles in the adhesive and place the spacers in-between each tile as you go. Be sure to give each tile a little twist to ensure a good bond with the adhesive. Cut the tiles as needed to fit on the ends. You can also use sandpaper to smooth out the tile edges if they are sharp after you cut them.
5. Let the tiles dry in the adhesive overnight.
6. Remove the tile spacers and mix the grout according to the manufacturer's directions.
7. Using the rubber float, apply the grout to the tiles at a 45 degree angle. Wipe off excess grout with a wet sponge.
8. After about an hour, check for grout haze on the tiles and wipe them clean as needed.
9. Seal the edges with mildew resistant caulk if you are tiling on a floor that may get wet like the bathroom or kitchen.
10. See the Resources listed below for more tiling and home improvement ideas.

Tips & Warnings

• If the space between your tiles is wider than 1/8 inch, use sanded grout for a stronger hold. Otherwise you can use non-sanded grout.
• Make sure you use a waterproof grout if you are tiling in an area that will get wet. Apply grout sealant as desired.
• Use rubber gloves when applying the adhesive and grout.
• After cutting tiles, be sure to handle them carefully - their edges may be sharp.
• Always wear goggles when cutting tile.

Source: www.eHow.com

How to Clean Yellowing Terrazzo Floors

By J. Johnson, eHow Contributor

Carpet, tile, hardwood and terrazzo are common flooring materials--all require different maintenance techniques and cleaning processes. Some terrazzo floors are more than 3,000 years old. Employ proper cleaning techniques and your terrazzo floors will last a long time.

Things You'll Need

• Mop
• Mop bucket
• Water
• Floor cleaner

Instructions

1. Mop your terrazzo floors using clean water with no added cleaning products. This is a preliminary rinse. It can help fight yellowing discoloration and prevent the floor from absorbing the cleaning product.
2. Add a floor cleaning product to the water in your mop bucket. Because you used the preliminary rinse method, you won't need as much cleaner as the manufacturer recommends. To protect your terrazzo floor and prevent future yellowing, the cleaner should be non-chemical and non-abrasive.
3. Mop the floor again with the cleaning and water solution.
4. Empty and rinse your mop bucket and refill it with clean water. Mop your terrazzo floor a third time to rinse away the cleaning solution. Allow it to air dry.

Source: www.eHow.com

Restoration of Semi Riven Black Slate Floor Tiles

Dull and stained semi riven black slate floor tiles installed on a kitchen was restored to a deep shine using Tile Doctor quality cleaning and sealing products. Great tile cleaning and sealing expertise is also a must in bringing up a dull floor into a deep shine result.



Read more: Cleaning and Sealing Dull Black Slate Tiles

How to Cut Around a Toilet

By Ian Kelly, eHow Contributor

Although there are many available options for refinishing bathroom floors, the most common choices are sheet vinyl, vinyl tiles and ceramic tiles. If you are replacing your bathroom fixtures, lay the flooring before bolting the toilet down; this way, cutting a rough circular hole for the sewer outlet is fairly simple. If you plan to lay the flooring around an existing toilet, however, the trickiest part is cutting neatly around the toilet base. You can use one of three distinctive ways to achieve this, depending on your choice of flooring.

Things You'll Need

• Kraft paper
• Scissors
• Steel measuring tape
• Masking tape
• Plastic ruler
• Felt pen
• Pencil
• Duct tape
• Utility knife
• Silicone caulk
• Rag
• Vinyl tile adhesive
• Notched trowel
• Rubber roller
• Cellophane tape
• Patented tile and glass cutter
• Household machine oil
• Ceramic tile adhesive
• Rubber mallet
• Grout line spacers

Instructions

Sheet Vinyl

1. Cut halfway down the center line of a 24-inch-square sheet of kraft paper with a pair of scissors. Fold the cut line back and lay the paper on the floor with each side of the cut straddling the toilet. Push the paper toward the back wall so that the end of the cut lines up with the front of the toilet base.
2. Line the template up with a steel measuring tape, so that the front edge of the template is parallel to the back wall. Tape the front edge of the paper to the floor with masking tape.
3. Make a provisional crease in the paper around the junction between the toilet and the floor by holding the paper flat against the floor and running the ball of your thumb around the toilet base.
4. Trim off the paper protruding upward, about 3 inches from the crease. Harden the crease in small sections with the edge of a plastic ruler. Make a number of progressive cuts downward to the edge of the crease, so that the template opens up like daisy petals as you work. Firm up the crease with the corner of the ruler once you have worked all the way around the toilet base.
5. Remove the masking tape and mark the front corners of the template on the floor with a felt pen. Remove the template and carefully cut out the exact shape of the toilet base with the scissors.
6. Replace the template and line up the corners with the marks on the floor to ensure that you have a perfect fit; if not, mark any gaps or overlapping sections on the first attempt with a pencil, and prepare a second template. Tape the template to the floor with four short strips of masking tape.
7. Build up a master template to cover the entire bathroom floor by progressively taping sheets of Kraft paper to the toilet template and to each other. Cut the paper to fit around any obstructions by following the same techniques used on the toilet template. Line the edges of the additional sheets up with the peripheral walls until you have built up an exact template of the entire floor.
8. Roll out your sheet of vinyl; if you have a large bathroom, butt two cut strips of vinyl to the side edges of the center piece, and secure the joints with duct tape. Tape the master template to the vinyl sheet with masking tape.
9. Split the center of the vinyl opposite the toilet cut-out down to the front edge of the toilet with a utility knife, so that you can fold the sheet around the toilet after cutting it to size. Carefully cut out the toilet opening with a sharp break-away blade of a utility knife. Cut out the rest of the flooring about an inch out from the edges of the template to allow room for final exact trimming before gluing the vinyl down.
10. Run a bead of silicone caulk around the base of the toilet once the sheet vinyl is glued to the floor. Wet the tip of your finger and smooth the silicone down to a neat concave joint. Wipe off excess with a damp rag.

Vinyl Tile

1. Prepare a template as described in the Sheet Vinyl section.
2. Lay vinyl tiles over the entire bathroom floor as directed in the written instructions, but leave a square opening large enough to accommodate the cut tiles around the base of the toilet.
3. Measure and mark the template with a pencil and ruler, and cut it into squares the same size as the surrounding tiles. Lay the template squares into the opening to ensure that you have a perfect fit.
4. Lay each individual cut template square on a tile and line up the edges carefully. Mark the outline onto each tile with a felt pen. Carefully cut along the line with a sharp utility knife. Test fit the tiles inside the opening; adjust if necessary and remove the tiles once you are satisfied with the fit.
5. Apply a layer of vinyl tile adhesive to the opening with a notched trowel as directed in the written instructions. Lay the cut tiles one-by-one into the opening with the edges butting firmly against the adjacent tile. Run a small rubber roller over the surface with firm downward pressure to bed the tiles in.
6. Finish the installation with a bead of silicone around the toilet base.

Ceramic Tile

1. Prepare a Kraft paper template as described in the Sheet Vinyl section.
2. Tape the template temporarily to a second piece of Kraft paper with short strips of cellophane tape, so that it doesn't shift. Measure and mark the square outline of each tile on the template with a ruler and pencil. Ensure that the required grout-lines are marked out between each individual tile outline. Carry the lines across the underlying sheet for continuity and accuracy, and number each section to avoid confusion.
3. Cut out each tile template and discard the thin strips of Kraft paper representing the grout lines.
4. Position each template on a separate tile and draw the outline of the curved cut line onto the tile with a felt pen, using the edge of the template as a guide.
5. Lay the rest of the ceramic tiles on the floor as directed on the written instructions that came with the tile adhesive. Leave a square opening large enough to accommodate the cut tiles around the base of the toilet.
6. Oil the tungsten carbide wheel on the bottom of a patented tile and glass cutter with thin household machine oil. Place the tile on a smooth flat surface. Position the wheel on the end of the curved cut line.
7. Place your left index finger on the top of the protruding face off the downward sloping upper clamp; each side of the clamp slopes downward slightly, forming a small gap between the upper and lower faces of the clamp.
8. Exert firm downward pressure with both your right hand and left forefinger and draw the tungsten carbide wheel smoothly along the curved line on the tile.
9. Slide the edge of the cut line between the jaws of the clamp. Ensure that the cut line sits in the center of the clamp and that the curved line faces forward and sweeps to the right.
10. Squeeze the handles of the clamp together. Increase the clamp pressure gradually until one side of the tile splits cleanly away from the other side, neatly along the length of the curved cut line.
11. Repeat this action and cut the rest of the marked tiles the same way; remember to lubricate the tungsten carbide wheel before each cut.
12. Test fit the cut tiles into the opening surrounding the toilet base to ensure that all the tiles are cut correctly. Remove the tiles and spread a thin layer of ceramic tile adhesive onto the floor inside the opening with a notched trowel.
13. Lay each tile into the opening in the correct order as marked earlier. Bed the tiles down evenly with a rubber mallet and place grout line spacers in the joints between the tiles in preparation for final grouting.
14. Finish the joint between the tiles and the toilet base with a bead of silicone caulk as described above after grouting the floor.

Tips & Warnings

• Leave your sheet vinyl in a heated room for 24 hours prior to laying the floor to soften the vinyl and to increase its flexibility.

Source: www.eHow.com