How to Clean Yellowing Terrazzo Floors

By J. Johnson, eHow Contributor

Carpet, tile, hardwood and terrazzo are common flooring materials--all require different maintenance techniques and cleaning processes. Some terrazzo floors are more than 3,000 years old. Employ proper cleaning techniques and your terrazzo floors will last a long time.

Things You'll Need

• Mop
• Mop bucket
• Water
• Floor cleaner

Instructions

1. Mop your terrazzo floors using clean water with no added cleaning products. This is a preliminary rinse. It can help fight yellowing discoloration and prevent the floor from absorbing the cleaning product.
2. Add a floor cleaning product to the water in your mop bucket. Because you used the preliminary rinse method, you won't need as much cleaner as the manufacturer recommends. To protect your terrazzo floor and prevent future yellowing, the cleaner should be non-chemical and non-abrasive.
3. Mop the floor again with the cleaning and water solution.
4. Empty and rinse your mop bucket and refill it with clean water. Mop your terrazzo floor a third time to rinse away the cleaning solution. Allow it to air dry.

Source: www.eHow.com

Restoration of Semi Riven Black Slate Floor Tiles

Dull and stained semi riven black slate floor tiles installed on a kitchen was restored to a deep shine using Tile Doctor quality cleaning and sealing products. Great tile cleaning and sealing expertise is also a must in bringing up a dull floor into a deep shine result.



Read more: Cleaning and Sealing Dull Black Slate Tiles

How to Cut Around a Toilet

By Ian Kelly, eHow Contributor

Although there are many available options for refinishing bathroom floors, the most common choices are sheet vinyl, vinyl tiles and ceramic tiles. If you are replacing your bathroom fixtures, lay the flooring before bolting the toilet down; this way, cutting a rough circular hole for the sewer outlet is fairly simple. If you plan to lay the flooring around an existing toilet, however, the trickiest part is cutting neatly around the toilet base. You can use one of three distinctive ways to achieve this, depending on your choice of flooring.

Things You'll Need

• Kraft paper
• Scissors
• Steel measuring tape
• Masking tape
• Plastic ruler
• Felt pen
• Pencil
• Duct tape
• Utility knife
• Silicone caulk
• Rag
• Vinyl tile adhesive
• Notched trowel
• Rubber roller
• Cellophane tape
• Patented tile and glass cutter
• Household machine oil
• Ceramic tile adhesive
• Rubber mallet
• Grout line spacers

Instructions

Sheet Vinyl

1. Cut halfway down the center line of a 24-inch-square sheet of kraft paper with a pair of scissors. Fold the cut line back and lay the paper on the floor with each side of the cut straddling the toilet. Push the paper toward the back wall so that the end of the cut lines up with the front of the toilet base.
2. Line the template up with a steel measuring tape, so that the front edge of the template is parallel to the back wall. Tape the front edge of the paper to the floor with masking tape.
3. Make a provisional crease in the paper around the junction between the toilet and the floor by holding the paper flat against the floor and running the ball of your thumb around the toilet base.
4. Trim off the paper protruding upward, about 3 inches from the crease. Harden the crease in small sections with the edge of a plastic ruler. Make a number of progressive cuts downward to the edge of the crease, so that the template opens up like daisy petals as you work. Firm up the crease with the corner of the ruler once you have worked all the way around the toilet base.
5. Remove the masking tape and mark the front corners of the template on the floor with a felt pen. Remove the template and carefully cut out the exact shape of the toilet base with the scissors.
6. Replace the template and line up the corners with the marks on the floor to ensure that you have a perfect fit; if not, mark any gaps or overlapping sections on the first attempt with a pencil, and prepare a second template. Tape the template to the floor with four short strips of masking tape.
7. Build up a master template to cover the entire bathroom floor by progressively taping sheets of Kraft paper to the toilet template and to each other. Cut the paper to fit around any obstructions by following the same techniques used on the toilet template. Line the edges of the additional sheets up with the peripheral walls until you have built up an exact template of the entire floor.
8. Roll out your sheet of vinyl; if you have a large bathroom, butt two cut strips of vinyl to the side edges of the center piece, and secure the joints with duct tape. Tape the master template to the vinyl sheet with masking tape.
9. Split the center of the vinyl opposite the toilet cut-out down to the front edge of the toilet with a utility knife, so that you can fold the sheet around the toilet after cutting it to size. Carefully cut out the toilet opening with a sharp break-away blade of a utility knife. Cut out the rest of the flooring about an inch out from the edges of the template to allow room for final exact trimming before gluing the vinyl down.
10. Run a bead of silicone caulk around the base of the toilet once the sheet vinyl is glued to the floor. Wet the tip of your finger and smooth the silicone down to a neat concave joint. Wipe off excess with a damp rag.

Vinyl Tile

1. Prepare a template as described in the Sheet Vinyl section.
2. Lay vinyl tiles over the entire bathroom floor as directed in the written instructions, but leave a square opening large enough to accommodate the cut tiles around the base of the toilet.
3. Measure and mark the template with a pencil and ruler, and cut it into squares the same size as the surrounding tiles. Lay the template squares into the opening to ensure that you have a perfect fit.
4. Lay each individual cut template square on a tile and line up the edges carefully. Mark the outline onto each tile with a felt pen. Carefully cut along the line with a sharp utility knife. Test fit the tiles inside the opening; adjust if necessary and remove the tiles once you are satisfied with the fit.
5. Apply a layer of vinyl tile adhesive to the opening with a notched trowel as directed in the written instructions. Lay the cut tiles one-by-one into the opening with the edges butting firmly against the adjacent tile. Run a small rubber roller over the surface with firm downward pressure to bed the tiles in.
6. Finish the installation with a bead of silicone around the toilet base.

Ceramic Tile

1. Prepare a Kraft paper template as described in the Sheet Vinyl section.
2. Tape the template temporarily to a second piece of Kraft paper with short strips of cellophane tape, so that it doesn't shift. Measure and mark the square outline of each tile on the template with a ruler and pencil. Ensure that the required grout-lines are marked out between each individual tile outline. Carry the lines across the underlying sheet for continuity and accuracy, and number each section to avoid confusion.
3. Cut out each tile template and discard the thin strips of Kraft paper representing the grout lines.
4. Position each template on a separate tile and draw the outline of the curved cut line onto the tile with a felt pen, using the edge of the template as a guide.
5. Lay the rest of the ceramic tiles on the floor as directed on the written instructions that came with the tile adhesive. Leave a square opening large enough to accommodate the cut tiles around the base of the toilet.
6. Oil the tungsten carbide wheel on the bottom of a patented tile and glass cutter with thin household machine oil. Place the tile on a smooth flat surface. Position the wheel on the end of the curved cut line.
7. Place your left index finger on the top of the protruding face off the downward sloping upper clamp; each side of the clamp slopes downward slightly, forming a small gap between the upper and lower faces of the clamp.
8. Exert firm downward pressure with both your right hand and left forefinger and draw the tungsten carbide wheel smoothly along the curved line on the tile.
9. Slide the edge of the cut line between the jaws of the clamp. Ensure that the cut line sits in the center of the clamp and that the curved line faces forward and sweeps to the right.
10. Squeeze the handles of the clamp together. Increase the clamp pressure gradually until one side of the tile splits cleanly away from the other side, neatly along the length of the curved cut line.
11. Repeat this action and cut the rest of the marked tiles the same way; remember to lubricate the tungsten carbide wheel before each cut.
12. Test fit the cut tiles into the opening surrounding the toilet base to ensure that all the tiles are cut correctly. Remove the tiles and spread a thin layer of ceramic tile adhesive onto the floor inside the opening with a notched trowel.
13. Lay each tile into the opening in the correct order as marked earlier. Bed the tiles down evenly with a rubber mallet and place grout line spacers in the joints between the tiles in preparation for final grouting.
14. Finish the joint between the tiles and the toilet base with a bead of silicone caulk as described above after grouting the floor.

Tips & Warnings

• Leave your sheet vinyl in a heated room for 24 hours prior to laying the floor to soften the vinyl and to increase its flexibility.

Source: www.eHow.com

How to Install a Tile Edge Backsplash

By Kevin McDermott, eHow Contributor

There are several ways to border a tile backsplash. Using tile itself is one of the best. If you don't want to deal with the durability and maintenance issues of putting wooden trim around the edges, get bullnose tiles, which are like regular wall tiles but are finished on one edge. That edge forms the border of your backsplash. The bullnose tiles can completely match the ``field'' tiles (as the main span of tiles are called), or you can pick entirely different colors and designs to set off the border from the rest of the backsplash.

Things You'll Need

• Level
• Square
• Pencil
• Tape measure
• Tile adhesive
• Adhesive trowel
• Wall tiles
• Bullnose tiles
• 1/8-inch tile spacers
• Tile cutter
• Grout
• Grout float
• Sponge
• Caulk gun with caulk

Instructions
1
Mark on a border on the wall where you want the perimeter of the main tiles of the backsplash to be (not including the bullnose tiles around the edges), using your level, square and tape measure. Mark a vertical line through the center of it.

2
Mark a second perimeter, around the first, to show where you want your bullnose tiles to go. The outer line should be as far outside the inner line as the width of a bullnose tile, plus 1/8 inch.

3
Spread tile adhesive over the whole inner area. Press your wall tiles into place, starting at the bottom row in the middle. Put spacers between the tiles, and at the bottom of the lowest row as well (to separate them from the countertop). Cut the end tiles as needed on your tile cutter.

4
Set your bullnose outer perimeter in place by "buttering" the back of each bullnose tile and setting it next to the inner tiles. Make sure the finished edge of each bullnose tile faces out from the backsplash. Separate them with tile spacers. Cut the bullnose tiles at the corners and by the countertop as needed.

5
Let all the tiles set overnight.

6
Pull out the spacers. Grout the whole backsplash, using your grout float to spread the grout over the tile face, pressing it into the lines between the tiles. Don't grout the horizontal joint between the bottom row of tiles and the countertop. Wipe off the excess grout with a damp sponge.

7
Let the grout set overnight.

8
Run a bead of caulk in the horizontal joint between the bottom row of tiles and the countertop.

Tips & Warnings
Wear eye protection when using your tile cutter.



Source: www.eHow.com

How to Lay Tile Without Grout Space

By Sarabeth Asaff, eHow Contributor

While any tile installation that must be waterproof does require grout to seal the joint between the tiles, many homeowners dislike the look of grout. If the tile job is to be done in a relatively dry area, such as wall tile or a floor that does not see a great deal of moisture, it is possible to install tiles without a grout joint.

To ensure that the tiles line up in straight, even lines and do not rub against one another causing damage in the event of the house settling, you must you vitrify tiles to complete the job.

Things You'll Need

• Vitrified tiles
• Pencil
• Straight edge
• Tile saw
• Thinset
• Trowel
• Beating block or 2-by-4 cut to 6 inches in length

Instructions
1
Purchase tiles that have been vitrified. Vitrified tiles come in ceramic and porcelain for wall and floor use. The tiles are made of compressed clay dust and fired to extremely high temperatures. This ensures that the tiles are all completely straight and square, meaning that they can be installed butted up to one another with no grout joint. The tiles will stay in even rows and will not damage one another from movement.

2
Lay out the vitrified tiles over the area you wish to install them. Butt the tiles right up against one another so they are touching and mark any tiles that will need to be cut to fit with a pencil and straight edge. Cut these tiles on a tile saw before proceeding.

3
Spread a small amount of thinset at a time over the area to be tiled with a trowel. Rake the thinset with the notched end of the trowel and press each of the vitrified tiles into the thinset in the order determined by your layout.

4
Beat the tiles into the thinset mortar with a beating block. Hit them with the flat side of the block, not the edge as this could damage the tiles. The beating will ensure that each tile is completely flat and well-bonded to the thin set. This is important, because there will be no grout joint to make up for any lippage, or tiles that stick up slightly at the sides.

5
Allow the thin set to dry for 24 hours before you walk on the tile installation.

Tips & Warnings

If you are laying tiles in a shower area, or area prone to a lot of moisture, you can still butt vitrified tiles together and then pack the joints with a small amount of unsanded grout. This will seal the tiles against moisture, while keeping the joint to the smallest amount possible.


Source: www.eHow.com

Slate Tile Flooring Cleaning In Northampton

Pictures below from rough slate tile flooring installed in the Kitchen and Toilet of a house in Northampton. The home owner had called us in to give the slate floor a clean and seal.

Cleaning the Slate Tile Flooring

We cleaned the slate tiled floor with a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean in order to strip any remaining sealer together with a buffing machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad. The buffing machine doesn’t get into the grout lines so well so we had to use hand brushes for that. The floor was washed down with clean water and then left to dry overnight.

Sealing Slate Tiled Flooring

We came back the next day to seal the floor using five coats Tile Doctor Seal and Go which provides stain resistance as well as adding a low sheen to the floor.


The home owner was very happy with work we did and left the comment below.

Effective and efficient service, would highly recommend Phil Vissian and the service provided.

Amanda, Northampton

Source: Slated Tiled Flooring Cleaned and Sealed

How to Restore Brick

by Emily Beach, Demand Media

Brick's natural clay composition not only gives this material its classic earth-colored finish, but also a tremendous level of strength and durability. Structures built from brick often outlast those made from wood or other materials, and some brick buildings date back several centuries. Over time, exposure to moisture and extreme temperatures may leave brick with signs of wear, including crumbling mortar and a dull or dirty finish. Cleaning and repairing old or damaged brick can restore this material to like-new condition and allow its natural beauty to shine through.

Things You Will Need

• Safety glasses
• Dust mask
• Masonry hammer
• Flat chisel
• Mortar mix
• Water
• Bucket
• Brick trowel
• Contouring tool
• Angle grinder
• Garden hose
• Household cleaner or dish detergent
• Natural bristle brush

Repair Damaged Mortar
1
Put on safety glasses and a dust mask.
2
Use a hammer and flat chisel to chip away loose or damaged mortar from between bricks. Work carefully to avoid chiseling the bricks themselves.
3
Mix masonry mortar in a bucket according to the manufacturer's instructions. Use a brick trowel to insert mortar into any gaps or empty joints between the bricks. Wipe excess mortar from the face of the bricks using the edge of the trowel.
4
Apply a brick contouring tool, or jointer, to the new joints. Choose a tool that can be used to create a profile that matches the existing mortar profile. For example, use a tool with a round profile if the existing mortar is rounded.

Clean the Brick
1
Make sure the mortar is thoroughly dry. Spray the brick with water from a garden hose until it is completely wet.
2
Spray or squirt a household cleaner, such as dish detergent, onto the brick.
3
Work the detergent into the brick using a natural bristle brush. Again spray the surface to rinse away dirt and detergent.
4
Wait for the wall to dry, then check your results. If the wall is clean, the project is complete. If there still are stains or dirt on the brick, repeat Steps 1 through 3 using a cleaner designed for use on brick.


Source: HomeGuides.sfgate.com