What Does it Cost to Polish Terrazzo Floors?

Terrazzo is a man-made composite type of flooring that is either precast or poured directly onto the floor. The polishing process most commonly happens after the floor has had a chance to cure and harden, although for medallions and other custom insets, the polishing can happen in a factory setting. You need specialty tools and experience to polish terrazzo, which means the cost for the process includes a number of factors.

Specialty Tools
Since terrazzo is specifically made to be incredibly hard and durable, specialty tools such as diamond-tipped or carbide-tipped blades are a necessity, and for floors in particular, a large polishing machine is used. These are only available to qualified professionals, which means your only option for polishing terrazzo is to work with a contractor.

Skill of the Craftsman
The skill of the craftsman is directly rated to the per-hour or per-square-foot rate he gives you. For example, a journeyman craftsman may only charge you the equivalent of $25 to $30 per hour, while a master craftsman will often charge around $75 per hour or more, depending on the project. Polishing and sealing rates vary drastically depending on your location in the country, but as a general rule range between $1 and $5 per square foot at time of publication.

New Installation or Remodel
Depending on if you are having a new floor polished for the first time or an old floor repolished after years of foot traffic, the prices for the project can vary. With new installations, the terrazzo professional does not need to worry about the subsequent dust from the polishing process affecting the house, while a remodel project includes dust prevention and protection methods. These extra methods cost extra money. Although it depends on the contractor in question, the standard for remodel projects is to add on 15 to 20 percent extra to cover protection time and effort.

Optional Inclusions
Optional inclusions during the polishing process can also affect the overall price. For example, while mechanical polishing might range between $2 and $4 per square foot depending on the contractor in question, crystallization polishing and densification are additional process that can enhance the durability of the terrazzo as well as add color enhancement or dyes to change the color. These add-ons can range between $.50 per square foot up to $2 per square foot, depending on the contractor.


Source: www.HomeSteady.com

Learn the Correct Way to Renovate Old Quarry Tiles

The Quarry Tiled Floor pictured below was located in a wood on the outskirts of the pretty coastal village of Levington, just East of Ipswich. The client had recently purchased this old Gamekeepers cottage and they were looking to redecorate and refurbish the property including the floors.


The floors in the house were all very dirty and the new owners wanted them cleaned in time for Christmas. I visited site and conducted a demonstration on a small section of Quarry tiles which covered the whole of the ground floor. The demonstration went well, and the client was very pleased to see the kind of result they could expect. We agreed a price for the work and arranged a suitable time to return.

Cleaning a Quarry Tiled Floor

I knew from the age of the cottage it very unlikely to have a damp-proof membrane present under the floor so I had to consider damp and efflorescence issues could become factors during cleaning. Efflorescence occurs when salts trapped in water from the ground rise through the porous Quarry tiles and are left on the surface of the tile as white deposits when the moisture evaporates.

Before starting with the cleaning process, we set about taping up the wooden skirting and doorways to protect them. Then because of the lack of a DPM I decided to clean the floor with Tile Doctor Acid Gel which would require less water and counter any alkaline salts trapped in the floor. It was applied to the floor and then worked in using a rotary machine fitted with a scrubbing pad. The grout was then scrubbed by hand using a wire brush and the resultant slurry vacuumed using our wet vacuum.

Once I was satisfied the floor was as clean as possible the floor was rinsed with warm water using the least amount of water possible. This removed any trace of cleaning product and the floor then dried using the wet vacuum and microfibre cloths. The floor was then inspected, and any stubborn areas were spot treated before leaving the floor to dry off fully overnight.

Sealing a Quarry Tiled Floor

The following morning, I conducted a damp test with a moisture meter to ensure the floor was dry enough to take a sealer. Sure enough, due to the cleaning method used, the floor was dry, and I was able to move on to applying the sealer which for this floor I used Tile Doctor Seal & Go Extra.

I selected Seal & Go Extra as it has a special acrylic-based formula which allows moisture vapour transmission making it partially breathable and well suited for floors without a damp-proof membrane. This is important as to use non-breathable sealer can result in damp building up in the tiles and under the floor where it can cause damage and spread out to the walls resulting in rising damp. Six coats of sealer were applied to the Quarry tiles to ensure the floor was fully sealed and this left a nice low sheen finish.


The clients were extremely happy with the result, as you can see from the the pictures the floor looked in much better condition.

For aftercare I recommended the use of the Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner to keep the floor in the best condition and make maintenance easy for them. This would ensure the newly applied seal stayed put.


Source: Quarry Tile and Grout Cleaning and Renovation Service in Suffolk

Blotches and Imperfections in Granite

Its wide range of colors, scratch and heat resistance, and the ease of polishing it to an aesthetically pleasing high gloss make granite a top choice for kitchen and bathroom counter tops. Although some granite may have a naturally blotchy grain pattern, other imperfections you notice on your granite may be man made. Sealing your granite every three years protects it and helps maintain its luster.

The Higher the Grade, the Better
Granite quality is broken down into three grades: first choice, commercial quality and second quality, according to Alabama Countertops. Although granite in any category is equally durable and can be polished to a nice sheen, imperfections and blotchiness are detected more easily in lower quality granite. First choice is the most expensive granite and contains no visible imperfections. Although commercial quality is less expensive -- it contains hairline cracks, blotches, and cloudiness -- the imperfections can be masked with a high polish. The multitude of natural defects and blotches in second quality granite, on the other hand, often make it a poor choice for counter tops.

Naturally Imperfect
Because granite is a natural rock, it's innately filled with imperfections such as hairline cracks and variations in color. Dark or solid colored granite shows natural imperfections, dings and spills more easily than lighter granite. Additionally, since most granite is a mixture of colors and patterns, any seam in a granite counter top may be clearly evident, sometimes making the overall appearance seem mismatched once the counter is installed.

External Causes
While granite is regarded for its durability, it isn't invincible. When not regularly wiped dry, water left on granite may eventually leave behind a white crusty residue -- a hard water stain -- from the minerals it contains. This can be remedied by scraping away the crustiness with a plastic scraper, but it takes some elbow grease and patience. Spills from oils, dark sauces, red wine, and organic material such as acidic fruits can create dark splotches on granite even when wiped away quickly. Applying a homemade poultice, or cleaning paste mixture, specific to the type of spill can safely pull out the substance that has seeped into the granite.

Professional Remedies
If you've noticed an unusual imperfection, like a gouge or dent, in your granite, it's best to contact a professional to remedy the situation. Professionals who have experience working with granite can remove scratches or other defects without causing further damage. A professional may repolish the granite to mask the imperfection and apply a granite sealer on the entire surface to protect it from stains, preventing further damage.


Source: Living.TheBump.com

The Slate Tile

Slate tile has been widely used for centuries in the building industry. Its main function has been as a building stone due to its easy to work with texture. However, it is a very heavy material, thus quite expensive to move around, so it was mainly used in regions close to slate quarries. Those areas producing such beautiful slate tiles included Wales, Portugal, United Kingdom and New York.

Slate is a natural quarried stone consisting mainly of quartz and muscovite particles.

Some of the secondary ingredients may include chlorite, graphite and magnetite. The process of slate formation begins when layers and layers of clay and volcanic ash have been foliated together over a long period of time. This foliation then forms the clay and ash into a finely grained sedimentary rock.

Slate tile and pavers come in many amazing and varied colors, ranging from the dark blacks and browns, to purples and greens, to blue-grays and also reds and rusts. The aesthetic appeal of slate tile or pavers is that no two tiles are the same, not only in color but also in texture! The use of slate gives a natural yet elegant appeal!

Slate Paving Stones will give you the look of traditional slate with the strength and durability of concrete.

Slate Paving Stones are available with straight edges, straight sides, a variety of sizes and consistent thicknesses. These features make Slate Paving Stones so easy to work with when installing them. It also means that they are extremely versatile when it comes to laying out various patterns and designs.

Slate Paving Stones are flexible and have high compressive strength, with an absorption rate of less than 5%. This makes Slate Pavers a great flooring alternative for your patio, decking and walkways.

Source: www.RafterTales.com

How to Color & Age a Limestone Wall

Stacked limestone walls---outdoors in a garden or indoors on a fireplace---provide a note of rustic beauty to any design. Limestone can come in a variety of natural colors---gray, tan, yellow---or a combination of all three. If you want to give your limestone wall a single, unifying color, you can stain the stone with a colorant compound, available at most landscape supply stores or online. You can also use colorants to artificially "age" limestone by adding tell-tale streaks of green to represent the development of moss.

Things You Will Need:

• Stone colorant products (base color and green)
• Power sprayer
• Two spray applicator bottles with adjustable nozzles
• Watch or timer
• Clean cotton rags or cloths
• Garden hose
• You can color and age limestone garden walls.

1. Purchase stone colorant products, not "color enhancers." Color enhancers revive the stone's natural colors. You want to change the color altogether. Read the package carefully so you're sure to get the right product. You can use colorants meant for "concrete" staining on limestone walls.
2. Study the directions for the product carefully before proceeding and gather all the recommended tools for the job ahead of time. Limestone is extremely porous and you won't have time to "stop" the recoloring process to fetch another tool.
3. Clean the limestone surface with a power sprayer, with the sprayer head set on "broad" or "wide." Don't use a fine setting: you could accidentally etch the stone. Let the stone dry completely before proceeding, unless your product directions tell you to apply the product to wet stones.
4. Pour the "base color" (gray, tan or yellow) colorant product into a clean spray applicator bottle. Set the nozzle to "wide." Spritz the product onto a test stone (or a less visible area of the wall or walkway). Let the product settle onto the limestone for a few minutes, or according to the product recommendations. Since limestone is so porous, longer "setting" times will usually increase the color effect. Wipe off any excess colorant with a thirsty fabric rag.
5. Evaluate the effect of this first trial "setting" time. If the color isn't deep enough, apply a second coat and let it set longer before wiping it off. If the color is too deep, reduce the setting time and test this theory on a second trial stone.
6. Color only two or three stones at a time across the wall until the entire project has been treated with the base colorant. Let the colorant dry completely.
7. Pour a green-toned colorant product into another empty spray bottle. Set the nozzle on "narrow" or "fine." Choose areas along the wall where you want to apply faux moss to the surface of the stones. To make this choice, think of the behavior of real moss. Real moss on a wall follows a path of water as it flows down the face of the wall and so cascades down stones in an inverted pyramidal shape. The top stones on the walls will have the most moss, and the width of the moss will taper as the moss goes lower on the wall.
8. Spray the green "aging" faux moss color on the stones and let the color set for a pre-determined amount of time. Wipe away any excess. Let the color dry.
9. Gently rinse the limestone with a garden hose, not a power sprayer. You will likely remove the colorant you just applied if you use a power sprayer.
10. Apply a sealant if your colorant product recommends it, and do so according to the product directions. Sealants generally retard fading of colors due to water and sun.

Source: www.HomeSteady.com

How to Maintain Your Concrete Driveway

One of the best attributes of a decorative concrete driveway is how little maintenance and routine care it will need over its lifetime. But no driveway paving material—including concrete—is truly maintenance-free. Here are some tips for preserving the life and appearance of your investment.

Clean and reapply sealer as needed
Cleaning your concrete driveway on occasion and keeping it sealed are the best measures you can take to keep it looking its best. How often you clean and reseal will depend on the weather conditions the concrete is exposed to and the amount of vehicle traffic it receives. Generally, you should reseal a concrete driveway every two years or so, or when the finish begins to show wear. Good commercial sealers are available from concrete material suppliers and hardware stores. Or ask your contractor for recommendations. Always apply the sealer according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Remove stains immediately
While a sealer will help to protect concrete from stain absorption, it’s still a good idea to remove oil, gasoline, grease and other spills as soon as possible. If the concrete does discolor, pressure washing and certain cleaning chemicals will remove most stains.

Avoid using deicing chemicals
Using deicers on your concrete driveway in the winter can cause surface damage—primarily scaling and spalling—by forcing the thawing and refreezing of moisture. Products containing ammonium nitrates and ammonium sulphates are especially harmful because they will actually attack the concrete chemically. Rock salt (sodium chloride) or calcium chloride will do less damage, but they can harm vegetation and corrode metal. Avoid the use of any deicers the first winter after driveway placement, since new concrete is more susceptible to the harmful effects of salt. As an alternative, use sand for traction.

Treat it with care
Although concrete is one of the most durable paving materials for driveway construction, the typical residential driveway isn’t engineered to support heavy vehicles (like a huge moving van) and large construction equipment. Also use care when plowing or shoveling your driveway. Avoid the use of metal blades that might scrape or scratch the surface.

Source: www.ConcreteNetwork.com

How to Seal Before Grouting Travertine Stone

Travertine stone tiles are more complicated to seal and grout than are most types of tiles, because of the trademark holes that are all over the travertine surface. Those holes are generally filled with grout of a different shade than the tile, so the patterns of the holes are highlighted, but they aren't left open to collect dirt and moisture. You have to seal the stone before grouting (so the grout doesn't stain the stone), and then afterward, to seal in the grout.

1. Brush over your newly installed travertine with a dry paintbrush to take off all dust and debris, from the tile surface as well as from the gaps between the tiles.
2. Use the paintbrush to apply penetrating tile sealant to the surface with a paintbrush. Apply it in a thin, smooth coat. Don't brush into the holes that are on the face of the tiles or in the gaps between them. Let the sealant dry for four to six hours.
3. Spread unsanded grout over the tile using your grout squeegee to scrape it over the surface and force it into the spaces and holes. Make sure the grout is flat over the holes and spaces.
4. Let the grout sit in the holes and spaces for about 10 minutes. Wipe down the surface of the tile with a damp sponge, running it flat over the surface to avoid pulling the grout out of the holes and spaces.
5. Allow the grout to set for five to seven days. Apply two more layers of tile sealant, brushing it over both the tile and grout.

Source: HomeSteady.com