Wednesday, November 28, 2012

Tile and Grout Cleaned and Sealed in Hallaton

This beautiful Terrazzo tiled floor in a house in Hallaton, Leicestershire had been left in a bad condition by messy builders who had failed to protect it and left it looking dull and stained with cement and paint.

Terrazzo Floor Before Restoration


Cleaning and Polishing a Terrazzo Tiled Floor

Terrazzo is a very hard surface so we used a set of 17” diamond encrusted burnishing pads to cut the surface back to its original appearance. There are four pads in the set which fit a rotary machine, the first pad is red and is used together with a little water to remove sealers. You then move onto the white pad which is the first polishing pad and designed to remove ingrained dirt, next you use the yellow pad which polishes the surface further and can smooth rough surfaces. Before applying the final polishing pad it’s necessary to tackle the grout with Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which is a powerful alkaline cleaner specially designed for use on Tile and Grout where acidic products can harm the tile. Unfortunately machinery struggles in this area and so it’s necessary to tackle this problem by hand using a stiff brush.

Terrazzo Floor Before Restoration

The final polishing of the Terrazzo Tile floor was done using a Green 17" Twister Pad and a small amount of water to give a deep high shine finish. The floor was rinsed down to remove any soil and particles from the polishing and allowed to dry before sealing the Tile Doctor Ultra-Seal which is a penetrating sealer recommended for both Terrazzo and Grout formulated to provide maximum stain protection.    


Monday, November 26, 2012

How to Remove Grout From Porous Tile

By Sarabeth Asaff, eHow Contributor

If you are installing porous tiles, such as marble, granite or slate, always seal them prior to grouting them. If the tiles are not sealed, the grout can seep out the many tiny holes and crevices in the tile and fill them. Once the grout begins to set, it can be difficult to get the grout out of these crevices again. You can remove dried grout from tiles within 2 to 3 weeks of the installation. After this time, the grout will cure. Depending on the type of tile, type of grout and how long it has been on the tile, you may need to take multiple steps to get the grout up.

Things You'll Need
  • Green scouring pads
  • Alkaline cleaners
  • Water
  • Grout sponges
  • 4-inch razor blades
  • Paper towels
  • Warm water
  • Sugar
  • Acid grout stripper
  • Rubber gloves
  • Baking soda

Instructions
1
Pour some alkaline cleanser directly onto the tiles and work the area with a green scouring pad, moving the pad in a circular motion over the grout. Rinse with water by pouring fresh water over the surface repeatedly as the grout begins to come up. Wipe up excess water and grout with a grout sponge.

2
Scrape the grout from the tiles with a long-handled 4-inch razor blade. Push the blade across the tiles toward the grout joints, taking care to stop just at the joint to avoid removing the grout from the joint.

3
Wash the tiles again with an alkaline cleanser and scouring pad. Rinse well with fresh water, and clean up the area with a grout sponge.

4
Dissolve one cup of sugar into a gallon of warm water. Soak several paper towels in the sugar water, and lay them over the grout-covered tiles. Leave the paper towels on the tiles to soak into the pores for two hours.

5
Rinse the tiles with fresh water to remove the sugar, and wipe the tiles clean with a grout sponge.

6
Apply an acid grout stripper to the tiles to remove any stubborn grout. Test the stripper in an inconspicuous area first to make sure it will not remove the finish from the tiles as well. Use the stripper with a green scouring pad to pull the grout from the tiles, wearing gloves as you work with the acid.

7
Rinse the tiles with warm water, and allow them to air dry.

8
Sprinkle a layer of baking soda over the tiles to neutralize any acids remaining on the tiles before you allow bare skin to come into contact with the tiles.

9
Rinse the tiles with fresh water and allow to air dry before you allow contact with the tiles.


Source: www.eHow.com

Saturday, November 24, 2012

How to Grout Porous Stone Tiles

By Kimberly Johnson, eHow Contributor

Grouting is the process of filling in the gaps between tiles. This not only makes the installation more attractive, but prevents moisture from damaging the tile. Since grout is applied on the entire top of the tile, problems occur when the tile is made of porous stone. The stone often absorbs the grout before you can wipe if off, causing stains or a hazy appearance. To prevent this, seal the tile before applying grout.

Things You'll Need
  • Grout release agent
  • Foam paint brush
  • Buckets
  • Grout
  • Water
  • Grout float
  • Sponge

Instructions
1
Open a bottle of a grout release agent that is designed for the specific type of stone the tile is constructed of. Apply the liquid in a thin coat over the surface of each stone tile after it is mortared to the floor. Wait for the amount of time indicated on the release agent bottle before continuing.

2
Fill a bucket with a bag of dry grout and mix it with water as instructed by the directions. You can also buy a bucket of premixed grout which only require stirring up.

3
Insert a grout float into the grout and scoop up 1 cup. Place the grout onto the stone tile and pull the float toward you to push the grout into the grooves of the tile.

4
Continue applying grout until all of the grooves are filled to the top of the tiles.

5
Scrape the bottom of the grout float on top of the bucket to remove excess grout. Place the grout float back on the floor and hold it at a 45-degree angle. Scrape it over the surface of all of the tiles to remove excess grout.

6
Fill a clean bucket half full of warm water. Insert a sponge into the water and wring it out as much as possible. Wipe the sponge over each of the grout lines to smooth them out. Do not press down on the grout, simply move the sponge over them gently.

7
Rinse the sponge and wipe the surface of all of the stone tiles to remove the excess grout. Rinse the sponge frequently and replace the water in the bucket when it turns cloudy.

8
Wait for 10 to 15 minutes to see if a haze forms on the stone tile. If so, rinse the tiles again with fresh water and a sponge to remove the haze.



Source: www.eHow.com

Thursday, November 22, 2012

How to Install a Porous Stone Tile Backsplash


By Tim Anderson, eHow Contributor

Natural stone tile backsplashes are rapidly becoming one of the most popular types of backslashes installed in kitchens around the nation because of their rugged beauty. The natural defects in porous stones such as tumbled marble and travertine create an aesthetic that man-made products cannot compare to, but the stones' rough texture and imperfections require additional forethought and planning in the installation process.

Things You'll Need

  • Tile wet saw
  • Mastic adhesive
  • Notched trowel
  • Pencil
  • Tape measure
  • Tile spacers
  • Tile wedges
  • Tile sponge
  • Bucket (3 gallon or larger)


Instructions


  1. File the outside edges of the backsplash as well as against the counter top and leave any cuts against the underside of the cabinets and in the corners. The easiest way is to install the entire bottom row from the outside starting point into the corner and then work your way up from there, stacking the tiles into the bottom edge underneath the cabinet.
  2. Spread an even layer of mastic adhesive with the notched trowel, only smearing enough mastic for a few tiles at the time to avoid giving the mastic time to “tack” up and thus ruin the stickiness of the adhesive. Place a piece of the porous, natural stone into the mastic and apply pressure. This process may be repeated for each additional piece of natural stone.
  3. Use a combination of tile spacers and tile wedges to provide the space for grout joints between each piece of tile. While a tile spacer may be enough for some pieces, the imperfections within the natural stone can often create pieces that are slightly different in terms of dimensions, and the tile wedges can be used to help work around these slight imperfections and create roughly even-sized grout joints.
  4. Fill the bucket with warm water and then dampen your sponge to remove any excess mastic that will bleed through the porous holes in the natural stone. This is done to prevent any mastic from showing through the holes once the installation has been completed. Clean the surface of each installed tile within 10 minutes at most of installation; otherwise, the mastic can set up and make it significantly more difficult to clean.
  5. Use the tile wet saw to make any necessary cuts against the bottom edge of the cabinets and into the corners where the backsplashes meet (if necessary), as well as around any electrical outlets. The tape measure and pencil can be used to measure and mark any cuts prior to cutting on the saw.
  6. Allow a minimum of 24 hours before sealing and grouting the natural stone tile backsplash.


Tips & Warnings

  • A typical 12-by-12 tile requires a 3/8-inch notched trowel. Larger tiles will require a larger notch, and smaller tiles a smaller notch.
  • Tile spacers come in a variety of widths depending upon the personal preference of the owner relating to the size of grout joints. Tile wedges are spacers that allow for minimal adjustments in the case of natural stone, since pieces can vary in size and thus require additional manipulation.
  • All materials and tools can be purchased or rented from your local home improvement store.
  • Be sure to turn off all electrical current to the outlets in the backsplash before installing the tile. Always be sure to wear protective gear when working with a tile wet saw, such as safety glasses and earplugs.



Source: www.eHow.com

Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Old Terracotta Tiled Kitchen floor hidden under carpet in Oadby

Details here of a customer who had discovered old Terracotta tiled floor that had been hidden under carpet in the kitchen of their house in the village of Oadby Leicestershire. The carpet had been glued to the Terracotta tile which as you can see was in quite a state, the tiles also had grout haze on the surface of the tile which may have been the reason for covering them up in the first place.

Terracotta Floor in Leicester Before


Restoring Terracotta Floor Tiles

First step was to remove the carpet adhesive and grout haze which we did using a special coatings and sealer remove product called Tile Doctor Remove and Go which is a multi-purpose stripper and cleaner. We applied Remove and Go to the whole floor and then covered it with a plastic sheet and left it to dwell on the floor for around 12 hours so it could really get to work. When we returned we gave the floor a good scrub and rinsed off with clean water to neutralise the floor ready for sealing.

Sealing Terracotta Floor Tiles

The floor was dried and then sealed with six coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which is recommended for Terracotta tiled floors as it brings out the deep red colour in the tile with an attractive durable low sheen combined with stain protection whilst allowing vapour to transmission through the sealer, something you need if the floor is old and your not sure if a damp proof course has been installed. You can see from the photographs what a fantastic transformation we achieved, naturally the customer was very pleased.

Terracotta Floor in Leicester After
   


Tuesday, November 20, 2012

How to Seal a Travertine Back Splash

By Sarabeth Asaff, eHow Contributor

Travertine is a form of limestone with a warm and rich color palette. For this reason, travertine is frequently installed on the backsplash of many kitchen designs. The purpose of the backsplash is to protect the wall from splatters, so the travertine will need to be protected as well since it is porous and susceptible to staining. Travertine can be sealed both prior to grouting, and on an ongoing basis as part of your home's yearly maintenance.


Things You'll Need

  • Sealer made for porous stone
  • Foam paint roller
  • Wide dish or tray
  • Absorbent cotton cloths


Instructions
1
Pour the sealer out of the bottle into a dish or tray wide enough for a paint roller to be dipped into. Soak a foam paint roller in the sealer and roll it over the edge of the tray to remove any drips.

2
Roll the sealer onto the travertine, starting just below the cabinets and working down to the counter to avoid drips. If sealer gets on the counter, wipe it up with an absorbent cloth. Let the sealer soak into the travertine for 10 minutes.

3
Buff the travertine with an absorbent cotton cloth. Begin below the cabinets and work down to the counter, moving the cloth in a circular motion to remove any sealer than was not absorbed into the stone.


Source: www.eHow.com

Monday, November 19, 2012

How to Install Ceramic Wall Tile

Ceramic tile is a versatile and durable finishing material. Tiles can be installed as a floor or wall covering nearly anywhere, but they are especially useful in bathrooms and kitchens. Tiled walls can resist moisture and handle scrubbing much more readily than drywall or other materials, and so they are the ideal choice for humid bathrooms and kitchens where they will be exposed to cooking splatters. Learning how to install ceramic wall tile is a task well within the reach of an average homeowner. The process requires only a few tools and materials.

Things You'll Need

  • Flat head screwdriver
  • Coarse-grit sandpaper
  • Cloth
  • Water
  • Tile mastic or thinset mortar
  • V-notched trowel
  • Ceramic tiles
  • Tile spacers
  • Snap tile cutter
  • Tile grout
  • Rubber grout trowel
  • Sponge


Steps
1.
Prepare the wall for the ceramic tile. Begin preparing the wall by removing any outlet covers and switch plates. Roughen the surface of the wall by sanding it with coarse-grit sandpaper; this will help to improve adhesion when you install the tile. Use a damp rag to clear away the dust left from sanding.

2.
Apply tile mastic or thinset mortar to the wall. Ceramic tiles can be adhered to a wall using either of 2 products: tile mastic or thinset mortar. The application process is the same for both products. Use a V-notched trowel (sometimes sold as a "tiling trowel") to spread some of the mortar onto the wall, covering an area just big enough to lay in about 8 tiles.

  • Hold the notched trowel at a shallow angle against the wall, so that the notches on one of its long sides dig grooves into the mortar. Use long, sweeping motions to apply the mortar.
  • It is best to start applying the mortar along an edge of your wall (such as the area where a tile backsplash meets the countertop). Installing your first few tiles along this straight edge will ensure that your overall tile pattern is not crooked.

3.
Install the ceramic tiles. To install your first tile, align one of its edges with the edge of the wall. Making sure that it is straight, push it firmly into the thinset mortar to seat it. Installing each successive tile is easier if you use tile spacers - small X-shaped plastic pieces that fit between corners of tiles and ensure an even spacing of all joints.

  • Keep installing tiles by lining them up and pressing them firmly into the mortar. Once you have reached the edges of the area where you applied the mortar, repeat the process by applying another equal-sized area of mortar and applying about 8 more tiles. This process keeps the mortar from curing too quickly.
  • Install each tile in this manner until you reach the other edges of the wall. Most likely, you will need to cut the final tiles smaller to get them to fit against the other edges.

4.
Cut any tiles that need to be trimmed to fit your pattern. The final row of tiles in either direction will likely need to be cut to size. Begin by holding the full tile up to the area where it needs to be installed, and marking a pencil line where it will need to be cut. The most economical way to cut straight lines in tiles is using a snap tile cutter. Run the scoring wheel firmly over the pencil line on the tile and then snap it cleanly along the score mark. The cut tiles can then be installed as usual.

  • Many home improvement stores run tool rental programs through which you can rent a snap tile cutter by the day. For bigger jobs, consider using a wet tile saw. If you anticipate multiple tiling projects, you may want to purchase a tile saw of your own.
  • If you need to make cuts in any shape other than a straight line, you will need to use a wet tile saw that can notch cuts partially through a tile. This is helpful for making rectangular cutouts to fit tile around an electrical outlet.

5.
Grout the joints between the tiles. After allowing the mortar to cure for about 24 hours, you are ready to fill in the joints with grout. Use unsanded grout for joints narrower than 1/8 inch (3 mm), and sanded grout for joints wider than this. Mix the grout in a clean plastic bucket according to the package directions.

  • Use a rubber grout float to scoop a small amount of grout out of the bucket. Run the float across the surface of the tile, pressing firmly to work it fully into each joint. Running the float diagonally with respect to the joints provides the best results.

6.
Clean the ceramic tiles after grouting. When each joint has been filled with grout, you can clean the excess grout from the surface of the tiles. Do this by rubbing the tiles gently with a sponge and water, rinsing often. Working diagonally to the joints will keep you from lifting any grout out from between the tiles. After about half an hour, the grout will be cured and a hazy film will develop over the tiles. Buff this film away using a clean, dry cloth.


Tips

  • If you notice a skin forming on top of the thinset mortar or tile mastic, do not install tiles over it. Scrape it off using a paint scraper and apply fresh mortar before continuing.
  • In wet environments, it is best to apply a bead of silicone caulking around the borders of the tile installation.
  • Ceramic tiles can be applied to nearly any surface, including both painted and unfinished drywall. However, for the best adhesion, consider installing cement backer board underneath the tiles.

Source: www.WikiHow.com


Sunday, November 18, 2012

How to Eliminate Musty Odors Naturally


By Alicia Bodine, eHow Contributor

Musty odors are unpleasant and can quickly take over the entire house. To address a musty smell naturally, you must first find the cause of the odor and take measures to address the cause. Cleaning the area, decreasing the humidity and lowering the temperatures will help. Once this is done, you can focus on getting rid of musty odor. You can accomplish this with all natural products.

Things You'll Need

  • Baking soda
  • Lemons
  • Pot
  • Vinegar
  • Spray bottle
  • Cedar chips
  • Bowl


Instructions
1
Open several containers of baking soda and set them around the house. Baking soda is an excellent odor eliminator. You can also sprinkle some baking soda on the floors and sweep or vacuum it up the next day.

2
Cut two to three lemons in to wedges. Set them in a pot of water and bring the pot to a boil. This will help rid a kitchen and surrounding rooms of a musty smell.

3
Pour straight vinegar in an empty spray bottle. Spray around every room that has a musty odor. Vinegar is another odor eliminator that has the power to get rid of even the strongest smells.

4
Sprinkle cedar chips in a few bowls and set them around the house. The cedar chips have a strong odor of their own that will overpower the musty odor.


Tips & Warnings

  • Open your windows to introduce fresh air in to the house.
  • If the musty smell is coming from an old set of books, stick a few dryer sheets in between the pages.

Source: www.eHow.com


Wednesday, November 14, 2012

How to Clean Up Liquid Soap/Detergent Spills

Cleaning up a soap spill can be a real headache. Our first thought is to mop it up, but adding water only makes the problem worse. Here are the steps and a helpful tips to tackle this mess and clean it up as quickly as possible.

Cleaning Up Soap Spills on Solid Flooring

You Will Need:
  • Kitty litter
  • Salt
  • Soft cloths
  • Paper towels
  • Bucket
  • Water
  • Mop
  • Dustpan

Steps to Clean Up the Spill:
  1. When a spill happens on a hard floor, there are several ways to absorb it first.
  2. Kitty litter makes a great absorbent. Cover the soap spill with the litter and allow it to sit and absorb the moisture.
  3. Use paper towels to push the moistened litter into a dustpan and dispose of it.
  4. Repeat if needed.
  5. If no kitty litter is available, use salt to absorb the soap with the same method as above.
  6. Use dry paper towels of soft cloths to wipe up as much of the soap as possible.
  7. When a majority of the soap is removed, you are ready to tackle the remaining film. Soap is concentrated and suds up greatly when water is added.
  8. Fill a bucket with plain water.
  9. Use a mop to clean the remaining soap off of the floor. Rinse the mop frequently and change the water as needed to keep lifting the soap from the floor.
  10. If excessive suds begin to form, vegetable oil can be used to reduce them. Both will be removed during the cleaning process.
  11. Once the floor is clean, dry it with a soft cloth.
  12. Allow it to air dry completely.
  13. If there is residue or a sticky film remaining, the floor needs to be mopped again.


Tuesday, November 13, 2012

Sealing Limestone

Sealing limestone is very important if you want to protect your limestone floor from any unwanted staining.

If you have a limestone tiled floor, you know that it absorbs liquids very quickly.

Although sealing limestone won't completely stop liquids from absorbing into it, it will give you more time to wipe up spills.

The porosity of limestone will differ greatly from a polished finish to a honed finish.

Honed finishes will be much more porous than the polished finishes.

Our recommendation would be sealing limestone when it's first installed and sealing after a deep cleaning every year, depending on your foot traffic.

If you don't have a lot of traffic moving through your limestone floors, you can wait two or even three years.

One thing about limestone you should be aware of is that limestone is a calcium based stone like marble and is susceptible to etching by any acidic liquid.

Sealing limestone will not protect it from etching, so caution should be used with any acidic liquid (e.g. orange juice).

How to Seal Limestone

Sealing limestone is not very complicated and if you take your time and clean it properly before you seal it, you shouldn't have any problems. 


  • The first thing you need to know before doing anything to your floor is find out if there is any kind of coating on the floor. If there is a coating it needs to be stripped off, which is a different process than described below.


  • Clean your limestone thoroughly with a neutral cleaner or if it's badly soiled, you can use an akaline stone cleaner to break down dirt and grease build-up.


  • Once the limestone surface is clean, dry it with a cotton or microfiber cloth. It's very important the limestone is dry before any sealer is applied. In some cases, if the limestone is more porous, it may need 24 to 72 hours to dry before applying a sealer.


  • If you're sure the limestone is completely dry, you can apply the sealer evenly using a lamb's wool applicator or any soft cloth. Honed or textured limestone will require more sealer due to it being more porous than a polished limestone.


  • Not all sealers behave the same and if you're using a water based sealer, it will take longer to dry compared to a solvent based sealer. It's important not to let the sealer puddle up as any unwanted residue can dry up and even stain some stones.


  • Let the sealer absorb into the limestone for at least 15 to 30 minutes not letting dry on the surface. You want to see the sealer beginning to dry on the limestone, but not completely before removing any residue.


  • Depending on the porosity of the limestone you can apply a second coat of sealer. Remove sealer residue with either a microfiber or cotton cloth, making sure to remove all excess sealer. You don't want to see any streaks left by the sealer


  • If you do see streaks left by the sealer, re-activate the sealer with some more sealer, and then buff off.




  • Maintaining Limestone

    Maintaining limestone can be easy, as long as you know what cleaners are best and how to use them. 

    When cleaning limestone we recommend using a neutral floor cleaner. Neutral meaning neautral pH or pH of 7 on the pH scale. 

    For daily cleaning, use a microfiber mop, with warm water and your neutral cleaner. Mop your floor and dry with dry mop. 
    When it comes to cleaning and sealing limestone or cleaning ceramic tile and grout, we strive to help educate our customers on the best protection they can have, helping them save time and money in costly restoration costs down.


    Monday, November 12, 2012

    Restoration of Kitchen Quarry Tile in Coundon, Coventry

    These Quarry tiles were in the kitchen of a house in Coundon, Coventry; the owner of the house found them hidden under a carpet and was keen to restore them. You can see from the photograph below they had been seriously neglected, covered in paint and cement and then finally carpet adhesive.


    Restoring Quarry Tiles

    First the quarry tiled floor was dry vacuumed to remove loose soil and particles from the surface. It was then cleaned using Tile Doctor Grout Clean-Up which is an acid based product useful for the removal of grout from the surface of the tile and in this case cement. The solution was worked into the tile using a buffing machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad. The soiled solution was removed using a wet vacuum and then rinsed with water; the process had to be repeated a second time before we were happy with the result.

      Quarry-Tile-Before-Restoration

     The next step in the cleaning process was to use a powerful industrial steam cleaner on the surface of the quarry tiles, as well as cleaning the steam had the added advantage of neutralising the floor before sealing.

    Quarry Tile Sealing

    The floor was now clean and the hot steam soon evaporated so it wasn’t long before we set about sealing the Quarry Tiles with four coats for Tile Doctor Seal and Go which combines stain resistance with a durable low-sheen finish.
    Quarry-Tile-After-Restoration Quarry-Tile-After-Restoration
     

    Source: Quarry Tile Restored in Coventry

    Sunday, November 11, 2012

    How to Clean Onyx Tile

    By Larry Simmons, eHow Contributor

    Onyx tile is a soft, calcareous stone tile. Composed primarily of calcium carbonate, cleaning onyx tiles with an acidic-based cleanser can damage them. Because of this, cleansers and methods used for other tile types are unsuitable for cleaning onyx tiles. Using a pH-neutral cleanser, along with frequent cleaning, can keep your tile looking fresh and extends the life of the tiled surface by years.


    Things You'll Need
    • Cloth
    • Dust mop
    • pH-neutral cleaner
    • Bucket
    • Sponge
    • Rope mop


    Instructions
    1
    Clean the surface of the onyx tiles using a clean, lint-free dry cloth or dust mop. Wipe any loose dirt or debris from the surface of the tiles, working in a single direction.

    2
    Dilute a pH-neutral cleanser in a bucket of warm water, combining the mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions. Use a cleanser made specifically for use with calcareous stone tiles. Use a damp sponge or rope mop to go over the surface of the onyx tiles, cleaning the tiles briskly, but not allowing the water to puddle. Use a light pressure on the tiles, as firm pressure applied to ingrained dirt may scratch the onyx.

    3
    Rinse the surface of the cleaned tiles with clean water to remove any residue from the pH-neutral cleanser. Wipe away the cleanser in a single direction to avoid displacing cleanser over areas already rinsed off.

    4
    Dry the surface of the tiles with a cloth to prevent streaks from developing due to air-drying. Pat the tiles dry with the cloth rather than pushing the cloth during the drying process.


    Tips & Warnings
    • Prevent staining of onyx tiles by blotting up all spills immediately.
    • Protect floor-tiled surfaces by using a non-slip mat or area rug at the entrances to high-traffic areas.


    Source: www.eHow.com

    Thursday, November 8, 2012

    Caring for the Surfaces of Your Home


    The surfaces of homes and businesses are what guests and clients see when they enter the space. Dirty or dull surfaces can under whelm clients and make guests uncomfortable. They can also be unhealthy for people living in homes and working in businesses. Therefore, it is very important not to only clean surfaces, but to care for them as well. With simple tools, such as the various types of floor machines and carpet cleaning machines, the surfaces of homes and businesses can become pleasing to the eye and healthy for those using them.

    Caring for Bare Floors

    Bare floors have no protection from walking traffic, busy children, crawling babies, pets, etc. They also have no protection from the discerning eye of guests and clients. To impress clients, keep guests comfortable and children safe, bare floors should be clean, shiny and free from dangerous imperfections, such as splinters and cracks. Regular washing, buffing and polishing will make bare floors look good, be safe and protect them from floor destroyers, such as spills, heels and rolling chairs. A good floor buffer can do all of the cleaning, polishing and protecting any bare floor needs.

    Keeping a Clean Carpet

    Carpets, while protecting bare floors and small children, are easily damaged by traffic and spills. Furthermore, failing to deep clean a carpet can leave it stained over time. A dirty carpet inside a business looks sloppy. Businesses want to present themselves as competent. A dirty carpet says the opposite. Inside the home, a dirty carpet can be unhealthy for children and pets. It can trap dirt, allergens and even parasites, like fleas. That is why it is important to vacuum carpets frequently and use a carpet cleaning machine whenever a carpet starts to look a little dingy. This will stop usage stains from setting in.

    Clean Countertops for Good Health

    Countertops are typically the place where people put their food, their hands, their personal belongings, such as keys and purses. If these surfaces are not cleaned regularly, they can transfer bacteria and other illnesses between people when food or hands touch them. Countertops are also typically below eye level and draw attention. If a business or home has dirty countertops, people will notice. Care for countertops by using disinfectant cleaners and keeping grout clean and complete. For example, if the grout is coming up, fix it, or the problem will only get worse.

    Don’t Forget Walls and Doorframes

    Walls are often neglected when people care for surfaces in their homes and businesses. People focus on the surfaces where we place items or on floors, which become obviously dirty. Walls should have the same kind of care, but typically
    do not require it as often. As any parent with young children can testify, people lean on walls and touch walls with their hands. They may leave behind greasy, dirty fingerprints and germs. Neither a home nor a business looks good with dirty walls. Care for walls by keeping the paint fresh and using paint that is easy to clean. From there, it is a simple matter of using a mild spray cleaner and soft rag to wipe down the walls.

    Doorframes are another largely neglected surface of homes and businesses. Like walls, people often lean on them and touch them. Items brush up against them as people pass through as well. Keeping up with doorframes is the same as keeping up with walls. Make sure the paint looks fresh and is easy to clean. The use of a mild spray cleaner or a bucket of soap and water to wipe them down are all that is needed when they need cleaning.

    Keeping surfaces clean is not difficult. Caring for them is simply a matter of maintenance and sufficient washing or vacuuming with the right products. This can help eliminate odours and bacteria/allergens in homes and businesses. It can also make the room in question look more presentable, homely or professional, and ensure people enjoy their stay and want to come back.

    Source: www.RafterTales.com

    Tuesday, November 6, 2012

    Porcelain Tile Deep Cleaning at a Hotel Health Club

    Some further photographs below of work we did at a London Hotel in the West End where we removed staining from the Limestone laid in reception. These photographs relate to the cleaning of a Porcelain Tiled floor laid in the Health Club changing rooms which although in good condition were in need of a heavy duty clean.

    Health Club Porcelain floor tiles changing room before cleaning


    Deep Cleaning Porcelain Tiles

    Unlike stone Porcelain Tile is a relatively straight forward surface to clean. It does help however if you have the right tools and products for the job as household tools and products can struggle. For this floor we applied a 50/50 mix of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean and NanoTech Ultra Clean diluted with three parts water to the dry surface. The solution was left on the surface to dwell for 30 minutes to allow it to penetrate the heavy soiling on the floor. During this time the product was scrubbed in using black polypropylene floor pads on a slow speed orbital scrubber. The soiled cleaning solution was extracted using a wet vacuum before rinsing with clean water. A second clean using the Tile Doctor Grout Clean-Up was applied diluted with three parts water and the scrubbing process repeated. This was needed in order to penetrate deeper into the porcelain tile and also to remove any calcium (limescale) deposits from the surface. The soiled solution was extracted again using a wet vacuum and then each tile was carefully rinsed using a fan jet power wash to fully flush the tiles and finally wet vacuumed to dry.

    Health Club Porcelain floor tiles part way through

    You can see from the photographs the difference deep cleaning made to the Porcelain floor, not only did we manage to restore their natural appearance and texture but there was a significant improvement in the wet slip resistance of the tile surface. The work was all completed out of hours between 22.00hr and 06.00 hrs so that there was no disruption to the hotel or health club guests.

    Health Club Porcelain floor tiles after cleaning
       


    Monday, November 5, 2012

    How to Tile a Concrete Floor

    By eHow Contributor

    Concrete floors are the ideal surface to lay tile on. The surface is hard, flat and easy to clean. Tiling a concrete floor will leave a lasting impression in whatever room you choose to makeover. Here's how to tile a concrete floor:

    Things You'll Need
    • tiles and spacers
    • level
    • pencil
    • tile adhesive
    • floor patch and leveler compound
    • notched trowel
    • tile cutter
    • grout
    • rubber float
    • sponge
    • acid based solution for roughing up the concrete
    • knee pads

    Instructions
    1. A concrete floor must be thoroughly cleaned before laying tile on top of it - any old paint, fillers, glues or sealants need to be removed prior to tile installation. Also be sure to remove any dust, mop the concrete floor with water and allow it to dry completely. If the concrete floor is smooth, treat it with an acid based solution to roughen it up before you lay tile on top of it.
    2. Be sure to fill any holes and smooth out any bumps on the concrete floor before laying tile on top of it (use a floor patch and leveler compound from your local home improvement store). Use a leveler to ensure the surface is flat.
    3. Find the center of the concrete floor and 'dry fit' the tiles to see if the pattern ends similarly on the edges. Use a pencil to mark vertical and horizontal lines where appropriate. You want the tile size to be consistent as they approach each end point when laying tile on a concrete floor.
    4. Apply the tile adhesive with the notched trowel, starting in the middle of the concrete floor. Lay the tiles in the adhesive and place the spacers in-between each tile as you go. Be sure to give each tile a little twist to ensure a good bond with the adhesive. Cut the tiles as needed to fit on the ends. You can also use sandpaper to smooth out the tile edges if they are sharp after you cut them.
    5. Let the tiles dry in the adhesive overnight.
    6. Remove the tile spacers and mix the grout according to the manufacturer's directions.
    7. Using the rubber float, apply the grout to the tiles at a 45 degree angle. Wipe off excess grout with a wet sponge.
    8. After about an hour, check for grout haze on the tiles and wipe them clean as needed.
    9. Seal the edges with mildew resistant caulk if you are tiling on a floor that may get wet like the bathroom or kitchen.
    10. See the Resources listed below for more tiling and home improvement ideas.
    Tips & Warnings
    • If the space between your tiles is wider than 1/8 inch, use sanded grout for a stronger hold. Otherwise you can use non-sanded grout.
    • Make sure you use a waterproof grout if you are tiling in an area that will get wet. Apply grout sealant as desired.
    • Use rubber gloves when applying the adhesive and grout.
    • After cutting tiles, be sure to handle them carefully - their edges may be sharp.
    • Always wear goggles when cutting tile.

    Source: www.eHow.com