How to Lay Pool Tiling

If you’ve recently installed a new swimming pool, tiling is likely next on the list. While hiring a professional can cost many thousands of pounds, confident DIYers may consider tackling the job themselves. It’s not cheap either way – quality pool tiles come at a premium – but doing it yourself can significantly reduce labour costs.

Why Choose Tile?

Tile remains one of the most durable and attractive finishes for a swimming pool. Unlike painted concrete or plaster, it resists staining, copes well with pool chemicals, and is far easier to clean. A well-chosen tile can also elevate the look of your pool, whether you opt for classic blues, reflective glass, or a contrasting border around the coping.

Use the Right Tiles

Standard indoor tiles won’t survive in a pool. Pool tiles are specially fired and glazed to withstand constant moisture, UV exposure, temperature changes and chemicals. Using the wrong tile will almost certainly lead to cracking, water absorption and early failure.

Costs to Expect

In the UK, professional pool tiling can easily run into five figures depending on pool size and tile choice. Labour alone is a major expense. Pool tiles range widely in price, from budget ceramic options to premium glass or hand-finished designs. Ordering extra tiles is essential – running short halfway through can delay the project and increase costs.

The Basic Process (In Brief)

Tiling a pool is labour-intensive and time-sensitive:

1. Drain the pool – check local water regulations first.

2. Thoroughly clean the surface, ideally with a pressure washer.

3. Repair cracks and apply waterproofing where needed.

4. Lay tiles using pool-grade mortar, keeping spacing consistent.

5. Allow adequate curing time before grouting.

6. Use pool-specific grout that resists fading and chemicals.

7. Let everything cure fully before refilling and rebalancing the water.

Rushing any stage can lead to tiles lifting or grout failing later on.

Retiling and Old Tiles

Retiling follows the same process but starts with careful tile removal. Matching old tiles can be tricky due to sun fading, so many homeowners opt for a deliberate design feature instead. Old tiles can sometimes be recycled or reused in garden features or DIY projects – just make sure they’re thoroughly cleaned first.

Final Thought

DIY pool tiling is not a weekend job. It demands planning, patience and physical effort, but done correctly, it can deliver a professional-looking finish while saving a substantial amount of money. If you’re unsure at any stage, it’s wise to consult a specialist before costly mistakes are made.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Removing Ceramic Tile

 Depending on where they are and how they're installed, removing ceramic tiles can be either a nightmare or a relatively simple job requiring little effort. Stripping all the ceramic tiles from a wall or floor, rather than just trying to remove one or a small number, will also be easier simply because you're not worrying about damaging the surrounding tiles. Here are a number of different situations in which you’ll be removing ceramic tile and some ideas on how to do it right.

What You'll Need:

• Putty knife
• Hammer
• Chisel
• Flat-blade shovel
• Safety glasses
• Gloves
• Dust mask

Ceramic Wall Tiles on Cement Board or Gyproc

This is by far the easiest situation. If you want to protect the underlying wall, take a three-inch, stiff putty knife and hold it at a very low angle relative to the wall. Starting at the edge of the wall, place the blade against the mastic and give the handle a solid tap with a hammer. In most cases the knife will slide under the tile and by simply lifting the handle up, the tile will pop off the wall.

Removing a single tile from a wall can be trickier. In this case, your first step is to remove the grout surrounding the tile using a rotary tool, a thin chisel, or a grout removing tool. Once you've taken care of the grout, use your stiff putty knife again, tapping the end to slide it under the tile.

Removing Tiles on Concrete Board

Removing floor tiles laid on cement board is more work than wall tiles but the methodology is similar. Choose an edge, where flooring and the wall come together, and start by removing any edgings or moldings. Now, you may be able to remove a starter tile using your putty knife, but more likely, you will need to remove the grout around a few tiles first.

Once you get a few starter tiles off the floor, break up the underlying cement board by banging on it with your hammer and discard it. Now you've created a small opening where you can slide a flat-bladed shovel under both the cement board and the ceramic tiles. Lifting up the shovel from underneath will break the cement board and the grout holding the tile so you can remove it. Repeat the process, sliding the shovel under the cement board then lifting and you can get rid of the floor in chunks.

Old Ceramic Tiles Laid Directly onto a Cement Base

This is by far the most difficult situation to deal with and thankfully this installation technique isn't used anymore. There are lots of old homes with ceramic tiles installed right onto a cement base. Once the mortar has cured, the concrete base and the floor tiles are in reality a single piece. There are only a few ways to remove ceramic tiles in this situation. One solution is to break up the tiles with a sledge hammer. However, it's a back-breaking, labor intensive project, and you risk damaging the base if you’re not careful.

The easier solution to this problem is to use a chisel and a hammer. You will want to start at a broken tile, if you have one, or in an area with loose grout so you can get the chisel under the tile. As you get the chisel tip underneath, tap the end of the tool with your hammer to work it further in. These tools will also work to chip away at the old thinset mortar adhered to the floor, which can’t be removed with a sledgehammer. It will be a time-consuming job, but one that will get you a good, clean subfloor to proceed from.

A Safety Reminder

No matter whether you're removing a whole floor or wall of tiles or just a single tile, remember you need to wear wrap-around eye protection, good quality work gloves, and a dust mask. Obviously, it's also a good idea to place protective covering on the floors and walls around where you're working.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Seal Limestone Tiles

 Installing limestone tiles can provide you with a very beautiful space for your floor or backsplash. In order to keep the tiles looking good over the long-term, you will need to regularly seal them. Limestone is a porous substance and as such, requires sealing to keep from staining. Here are the basics of how to seal limestone tiles effectively.

What You'll Need:

• Limestone sealer
• Rag
• Broom
• Limestone cleaner
• Mop
• Fan

Step 1: Clean the Area

Thoroughly clean the area before you seal it. If you don't clean the area, anything that is left on the floor will be sealed into the floor and end up looking bad. Start out by sweeping the room and removing any dust that you can. You may want to mop the floor as well, with a certified limestone cleaner. This will eliminate any dirt or residue that is left on the tiles.

Step 2: Apply the Sealer

After the tiles have dried from cleaning, apply the sealer as soon as possible. Apply the sealer with a rag or mop and cover the entire surface of the tile.

Step 3: Allow to Dry

Before using the tiles, make sure that they have time to dry. You may want to point a fan on the tiles to speed up the drying process.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Seal Limestone Tiles

 Installing limestone tiles can provide you with a very beautiful space for your floor or backsplash. In order to keep the tiles looking good over the long-term, you will need to regularly seal them. Limestone is a porous substance and as such, requires sealing to keep from staining. Here are the basics of how to seal limestone tiles effectively.

What You'll Need:

• Limestone sealer
• Rag
• Broom
• Limestone cleaner
• Mop
• Fan

Step 1: Clean the Area

Thoroughly clean the area before you seal it. If you don't clean the area, anything that is left on the floor will be sealed into the floor and end up looking bad. Start out by sweeping the room and removing any dust that you can. You may want to mop the floor as well, with a certified limestone cleaner. This will eliminate any dirt or residue that is left on the tiles.

Step 2: Apply the Sealer

After the tiles have dried from cleaning, apply the sealer as soon as possible. Apply the sealer with a rag or mop and cover the entire surface of the tile.

Step 3: Allow to Dry

Before using the tiles, make sure that they have time to dry. You may want to point a fan on the tiles to speed up the drying process.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Remove Staining and Renovate Black Slate Flooring

We received an enquiry from a property developer who had been renovating a property in Acton and needed our help to renovate the Black Slate tiles that had been installed throughout the ground floor. The slate floor had been down over 20 years and ran throughout the downstairs living space. Due to all the work being carried out the black slate had become very dirty with building material and had turned white with staining in many areas. They were uncertain if the floor could be restored but were reluctant to consider relaying it due to the expense.

As usual I went over to the property to understand the nature of the staining and work out the best products and processes for the renovation. There were multiple floors that needed attention so I measured up and worked out a detailed quote that included all the materials that would be needed. After reviewing the quote, I was given the go ahead and a date agreed for the work to start.

Cleaning a Slate Tiled Kitchen

To clean the floor, a strong solution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean was applied to the floor and then scrubbed in with a black buffing pad fitted to a rotary machine. These pads can struggle to reach into the grout lines so they were given an extra clean using handheld scrubbing brushes. This combination brought the dirt out of the floor to the surface where it could be extracted with a wet vacuum.

Tougher stains on the tiles were spot treated using more Pro-Clean and some of the grouting had to be scrubbed harder with wire brushes until the whole floor was consistently clean throughout.

Once done the floor was rinsed with a very weak dilution of Tile Doctor Grout Clean-Up to further clean the floor and neutralise it following the use of Pro-Clean which is a strong alkaline. The solution was then extracted with a wet vacuum and floor left to dry.

Sealing a Slate Tiled Kitchen

Once dry it was time to seal the floor which will protect it from ingrained dirt and enhance the finish. For this Tile Doctor Stone Oil was applied which being oil-based really improves the texture and dark colour of the stone.

The sealer is applied using a microfibre cloth and any excess product is wiped off before buffing with a white buffing pad on the rotary machine. This left a nice sheen to the tile and a consistent look throughout.

Our client was very happy with the finish, the Slate and Grout had been transformed and the sealer had really enhanced the look of the slate. For aftercare we recommended using Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner which will provide effective cleaning whilst not impacting the seal.

Source: Black Slate Floor Cleaning and Sealing Service near Acton London

How to Set Hexagonal Tile

Hexagonal tile can look wonderful in a room, giving something akin to a mosaic effect. However, it looks as if it can be very awkward to lay, making sure that all the tiles fit properly. Knowing how to lay hexagonal tile properly is important as is having the correct materials.

What You'll Need:

• Thinset
• 5 gallon bucket
• Drill with mixing attachment
• Trowel with 3/16 inch notch
• Grout
• Rubber float
• Sponge
• Level
• Tile nipper
• Utility knife
• Vacuum cleaner

Step 1 - Prepare

Begin by cleaning the floor of the room thoroughly. Use a broom and dustpan and follow up with a vacuum cleaner, using the hose and nozzle to reach into all the corners and crevices. Once the floor is ready, put the thinset into the 5 gallon bucket and mix it up following the instructions. Use a drill with a mixing attachment to ensure that the thinset is fully mixed.

Step 2 - Buy Hexagonal Tile

When you go shopping for hexagonal tile, you’ll find that they’re not packed individually. Instead, they’re glued to a mesh sheet in the same manner as mosaic tile. This makes it easier to lay the tile as there’s no need to position every single tile, just all the sheets. Where most tiles are set out according to reference points marked on the floor, working outward from the center, with hexagonal tiles you begin the process at the corner opposite the door and work to the exit.

Step 3 - Install First Tiles

Start by using the tile nipper to trim the tiles and the sheet so that the tiles fit squarely in the corner. Keep trimming until you’ve achieved good, straight edges on both sides of the corner and dry fit until you’re satisfied.

Having mixed up the thinset, use the mastic trowel to put some on the floor. Be certain to only cover a small amount of the floor at any one time. It should be small enough that you can reach across it to lay the tile without standing on kneeling in the thinset. Lay the first sheet of tile and put the level on press, moving it across the sheet to work out all the air bubbles.

Step 4 - Add Remainder of Tiles

From here work out from the corner, spreading more mastic and laying the sheets of tile. Some will need to be trimmed with the tile nippers for an even fit with the walls. Use the level on each sheet to ensure no air bubbles remain and that the tiles are level. Continue until you’ve covered the entire room and leave to dry.

Step 5 - Add Grout

Mix the grout up in a clean 5 gallon bucket. With the float, spread it across the tile on the floor so that it fills the gaps between the hexagonal tiles. Have another bucket with clean water and a sponge. Use the wet sponge to clean off the excess grout from the tiles, wring it out regularly as you go.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Tile a Border

 Laying a tile border around the outside perimeter of your tile floor is a job that is going to require some preparation and time. However, this is a job that you should be able to do if you have the proper knowledge and patience. Here are the basics of how to tile a border in a room.

What You'll Need:

• Tape measure
• Tile
• Wet saw
• Trowel
• Tile spacers
• Tile adhesive
• Grout
• Chalk line

Step 1 - Select the Proper Border

There are a number of different types of borders that you could potentially do. In order to choose the right one for your job, you are going to need to look at the different products that are available. You can look at magazines or pictures online in order to get an idea of what you want to do. You can completely customize your border to look like anything that you want. Therefore, you need to spend some time choosing the proper border for your room. You could use the same tile that you installed on the floor and just turn it diagonally or stagger it. You could use listello pieces to create a border. You could use small mosaic tiles to create a border. Your options are basically limitless. Choose the tile for your border and then order it.

Step 2 - Lay out the Pattern

Once you have chosen the tiles for your border, you are going to want to lay it out before installing it. This part of the process can take some time. You want to do a diagram on a piece of paper first so that you can see how you should lay it out. Take the tiles and lay them on the floor so that you can see what they will look like. Adjust the layout to fit your needs. If you are using listello pieces with corners, make sure that you have enough corners for each corner of the tile.

Step 3 - Lay the Tile

You are now ready to lay the border. Using your trowel, apply some tile adhesive to the floor. Then press your border pieces down into that adhesive. Make sure that the border pieces are firmly into the adhesive so that there are no gaps behind the tile. Put tile spacers on the edges of the tile so that you can space the tile appropriately.

Step 4--Allow it to Dry

You should then allow the tile border to dry thoroughly. In most cases, you will want to allow it to dry overnight before moving forward.

Step 5--Grout

At this point, you are ready to apply the grout. Using a grout float, spread the grout over the tops of the tiles and fill the grout joints. When you are done with this, you will want to clean up the mess. Use a sponge and water to wipe down the tiles. This is also going to help smooth out the joints. After you grout joints, you will want to let the grout dry overnight before walking on the tile.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com