Installing Ceramic Tile 101

Installing ceramic tile greatly transforms a room. If you plan on doing a home installation yourself, there are numerous installation guides available to help with your project. This article lays out the basics, but installing ceramic tile may involve extra steps depending on the kind of tile, size, and foundation underneath your installation area.

What You'll Need:

• Ceramic tiles
• Grout
• Backing or foundation
• Adhesive or thinset
• Rubber mallet or hammer and block of wood
• Long piece of wood

Before You Install

Installing ceramic tile differs depending on whether you plan to install it directly onto a wood surface, over vinyl or linoleum floor covering, or directly to a concrete slab. Tile experts discourage installing ceramic tile directly to a wood surface. You’ll need to install a sub-floor first. The same sub-floor is required for ceramic tile over vinyl or linoleum floor coverings. If installing ceramic tile directly to concrete, make sure you thoroughly clean surfaces before installation begins. Fill in any dips, cracks, waves, or bumps in the concrete.

Step 1 - Lay Out Room

Lay out the tile pattern on the floor before applying adhesive. Use a chalk line to snap a line perpendicular to the room’s length. Do larger tiles first, and then border tiles. Place tile spacers between the tiles. Next, place a long 1-inch thick piece of wood perpendicular to the tiles, securing it with a screw gun. Lay tiles going across the room next to the board in both directions. Be sure to use spacers between the tiles. Once you’ve laid out the tiles, check spacing and shift tiles to achieve balance in the room. The line where tiles intersect the wood board is the point where you’ll snap a second chalk line. This is your starting point for installing the tiles.

Step 2 - Lay Tiles

With a notched trowel, apply a 2 inch square of tile adhesive in your starting corner, using spacers between tiles and a level to ensure they’re flush. Use a rubber mallet (or hammer and block of wood) to nudge tiles down that are too high. Work across and down the entire room. Allow adhesive to set overnight.

Step 3 - Apply Grout

Make cuts and work on installing ceramic tile borders. Cut border tiles with a glasscutter or tile cutter. For more complex cuts, use a tile ripper or tile saw. Mix grout per manufacturer’s instructions and apply at a 45-degree angle. Wipe off excess grout with a sponge. Once your grout sets up, go back over to clean off any remaining grout. Allow grout to cure for a full week before applying clear sealer.

Step 4 - Replace Molds

The final step is to replace base moldings and furniture. Installing ceramic tiles is just that easy.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Tile a Kitchen Counter

The kitchen counter is one of the first things that people notice when they enter your kitchen, so you need to make your counter look good. If granite counters are beyond your means, there are tiles that bring out your desired results.

Kitchen counter tiles are easy to install, so you do not need to hire an expert to do the job for you. To install tiles on your kitchen counter, follow the step-by-step guide below.

What You'll Need:

• Work gloves
• Face mask
• Sponge
• Trowel
• Electric power drill with screwdriver set
• Tape measure
• Level
• Board knife
• Tile cutter/saw
• Plastic buckets,
• Backer board, ¼-inch
• Backer board tape, 2-inch wide
• Screws, 2-inch
• Tile
• Tile spacers
• Tile modified thinset
• Grout
• Tile or grout finish
• General purpose cleaning detergent
• Water
• Cleaning rags

Prepare the Area

Installing tiles can be a dusty and messy business, so you need to wear gloves and a face mask to protect yourself. After donning your protective gear and clothing, pour water into the bucket and mix it with powder detergent to make your cleaning solution. Wet the kitchen top with water and brush the detergent solution briskly to remove grease, dirt, mold, and so on. Wash the area thoroughly and let it dry.

Measure and Lay down the Backer Board

Use a tape measure to measure the countertop for the coverage of the backer board. Use a knife to cut the backer board according to the measurements taken. Mix thinset according to mixing directions. Spread it evenly on top of the kitchen counter.

Place the backer board on top of the thinset and secure it with screws into the outer edge of the kitchen counter. Allow 5-inch intervals between screws. Once this is done, spread the backer board tape to cover the edge of the kitchen counter, including the wall, where applicable.

Lay the Tile

Mix the tile modified thinset in the plastic bucket with water, according to the package instructions. Use the trowel to spread the mixture on top of the kitchen counter. Place the tiles in a line on the front edge first. Use the tile spacers to keep a uniform distance between tiles. Use the level along the way to ensure that you have uniformly pitched tiles. When you come to the edge, measure the remaining space of the kitchen counter, and if it is less than a whole tile, saw off the extra tile part to obtain the right size to cover the whole surface.

Apply the Grout

Mix the grout in another bucket and spread it out evenly in between tiles, filling out the spaces and cracks. Use a sponge to spread it. Let the grout dry for 1 day. Wet a sponge with warm water to wipe the tile surface, remove the remains of the grout and clean up the tile finish. Let the grout cure for another three days. Then apply a penetrating sealer for the tile and grout. This should keep it shielded from liquid penetration and early grout deterioration.

Finish Up

Gather up all leftover materials and store them in a safe place for future use. Put away all your tools and clean up the kitchen counter using a sponge, mild soap, and warm water.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Lay Pool Tiling

If you’ve recently installed a new swimming pool, tiling is likely next on the list. While hiring a professional can cost many thousands of pounds, confident DIYers may consider tackling the job themselves. It’s not cheap either way – quality pool tiles come at a premium – but doing it yourself can significantly reduce labour costs.

Why Choose Tile?

Tile remains one of the most durable and attractive finishes for a swimming pool. Unlike painted concrete or plaster, it resists staining, copes well with pool chemicals, and is far easier to clean. A well-chosen tile can also elevate the look of your pool, whether you opt for classic blues, reflective glass, or a contrasting border around the coping.

Use the Right Tiles

Standard indoor tiles won’t survive in a pool. Pool tiles are specially fired and glazed to withstand constant moisture, UV exposure, temperature changes and chemicals. Using the wrong tile will almost certainly lead to cracking, water absorption and early failure.

Costs to Expect

In the UK, professional pool tiling can easily run into five figures depending on pool size and tile choice. Labour alone is a major expense. Pool tiles range widely in price, from budget ceramic options to premium glass or hand-finished designs. Ordering extra tiles is essential – running short halfway through can delay the project and increase costs.

The Basic Process (In Brief)

Tiling a pool is labour-intensive and time-sensitive:

1. Drain the pool – check local water regulations first.

2. Thoroughly clean the surface, ideally with a pressure washer.

3. Repair cracks and apply waterproofing where needed.

4. Lay tiles using pool-grade mortar, keeping spacing consistent.

5. Allow adequate curing time before grouting.

6. Use pool-specific grout that resists fading and chemicals.

7. Let everything cure fully before refilling and rebalancing the water.

Rushing any stage can lead to tiles lifting or grout failing later on.

Retiling and Old Tiles

Retiling follows the same process but starts with careful tile removal. Matching old tiles can be tricky due to sun fading, so many homeowners opt for a deliberate design feature instead. Old tiles can sometimes be recycled or reused in garden features or DIY projects – just make sure they’re thoroughly cleaned first.

Final Thought

DIY pool tiling is not a weekend job. It demands planning, patience and physical effort, but done correctly, it can deliver a professional-looking finish while saving a substantial amount of money. If you’re unsure at any stage, it’s wise to consult a specialist before costly mistakes are made.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Removing Ceramic Tile

 Depending on where they are and how they're installed, removing ceramic tiles can be either a nightmare or a relatively simple job requiring little effort. Stripping all the ceramic tiles from a wall or floor, rather than just trying to remove one or a small number, will also be easier simply because you're not worrying about damaging the surrounding tiles. Here are a number of different situations in which you’ll be removing ceramic tile and some ideas on how to do it right.

What You'll Need:

• Putty knife
• Hammer
• Chisel
• Flat-blade shovel
• Safety glasses
• Gloves
• Dust mask

Ceramic Wall Tiles on Cement Board or Gyproc

This is by far the easiest situation. If you want to protect the underlying wall, take a three-inch, stiff putty knife and hold it at a very low angle relative to the wall. Starting at the edge of the wall, place the blade against the mastic and give the handle a solid tap with a hammer. In most cases the knife will slide under the tile and by simply lifting the handle up, the tile will pop off the wall.

Removing a single tile from a wall can be trickier. In this case, your first step is to remove the grout surrounding the tile using a rotary tool, a thin chisel, or a grout removing tool. Once you've taken care of the grout, use your stiff putty knife again, tapping the end to slide it under the tile.

Removing Tiles on Concrete Board

Removing floor tiles laid on cement board is more work than wall tiles but the methodology is similar. Choose an edge, where flooring and the wall come together, and start by removing any edgings or moldings. Now, you may be able to remove a starter tile using your putty knife, but more likely, you will need to remove the grout around a few tiles first.

Once you get a few starter tiles off the floor, break up the underlying cement board by banging on it with your hammer and discard it. Now you've created a small opening where you can slide a flat-bladed shovel under both the cement board and the ceramic tiles. Lifting up the shovel from underneath will break the cement board and the grout holding the tile so you can remove it. Repeat the process, sliding the shovel under the cement board then lifting and you can get rid of the floor in chunks.

Old Ceramic Tiles Laid Directly onto a Cement Base

This is by far the most difficult situation to deal with and thankfully this installation technique isn't used anymore. There are lots of old homes with ceramic tiles installed right onto a cement base. Once the mortar has cured, the concrete base and the floor tiles are in reality a single piece. There are only a few ways to remove ceramic tiles in this situation. One solution is to break up the tiles with a sledge hammer. However, it's a back-breaking, labor intensive project, and you risk damaging the base if you’re not careful.

The easier solution to this problem is to use a chisel and a hammer. You will want to start at a broken tile, if you have one, or in an area with loose grout so you can get the chisel under the tile. As you get the chisel tip underneath, tap the end of the tool with your hammer to work it further in. These tools will also work to chip away at the old thinset mortar adhered to the floor, which can’t be removed with a sledgehammer. It will be a time-consuming job, but one that will get you a good, clean subfloor to proceed from.

A Safety Reminder

No matter whether you're removing a whole floor or wall of tiles or just a single tile, remember you need to wear wrap-around eye protection, good quality work gloves, and a dust mask. Obviously, it's also a good idea to place protective covering on the floors and walls around where you're working.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Seal Limestone Tiles

 Installing limestone tiles can provide you with a very beautiful space for your floor or backsplash. In order to keep the tiles looking good over the long-term, you will need to regularly seal them. Limestone is a porous substance and as such, requires sealing to keep from staining. Here are the basics of how to seal limestone tiles effectively.

What You'll Need:

• Limestone sealer
• Rag
• Broom
• Limestone cleaner
• Mop
• Fan

Step 1: Clean the Area

Thoroughly clean the area before you seal it. If you don't clean the area, anything that is left on the floor will be sealed into the floor and end up looking bad. Start out by sweeping the room and removing any dust that you can. You may want to mop the floor as well, with a certified limestone cleaner. This will eliminate any dirt or residue that is left on the tiles.

Step 2: Apply the Sealer

After the tiles have dried from cleaning, apply the sealer as soon as possible. Apply the sealer with a rag or mop and cover the entire surface of the tile.

Step 3: Allow to Dry

Before using the tiles, make sure that they have time to dry. You may want to point a fan on the tiles to speed up the drying process.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Seal Limestone Tiles

 Installing limestone tiles can provide you with a very beautiful space for your floor or backsplash. In order to keep the tiles looking good over the long-term, you will need to regularly seal them. Limestone is a porous substance and as such, requires sealing to keep from staining. Here are the basics of how to seal limestone tiles effectively.

What You'll Need:

• Limestone sealer
• Rag
• Broom
• Limestone cleaner
• Mop
• Fan

Step 1: Clean the Area

Thoroughly clean the area before you seal it. If you don't clean the area, anything that is left on the floor will be sealed into the floor and end up looking bad. Start out by sweeping the room and removing any dust that you can. You may want to mop the floor as well, with a certified limestone cleaner. This will eliminate any dirt or residue that is left on the tiles.

Step 2: Apply the Sealer

After the tiles have dried from cleaning, apply the sealer as soon as possible. Apply the sealer with a rag or mop and cover the entire surface of the tile.

Step 3: Allow to Dry

Before using the tiles, make sure that they have time to dry. You may want to point a fan on the tiles to speed up the drying process.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Remove Staining and Renovate Black Slate Flooring

We received an enquiry from a property developer who had been renovating a property in Acton and needed our help to renovate the Black Slate tiles that had been installed throughout the ground floor. The slate floor had been down over 20 years and ran throughout the downstairs living space. Due to all the work being carried out the black slate had become very dirty with building material and had turned white with staining in many areas. They were uncertain if the floor could be restored but were reluctant to consider relaying it due to the expense.

As usual I went over to the property to understand the nature of the staining and work out the best products and processes for the renovation. There were multiple floors that needed attention so I measured up and worked out a detailed quote that included all the materials that would be needed. After reviewing the quote, I was given the go ahead and a date agreed for the work to start.

Cleaning a Slate Tiled Kitchen

To clean the floor, a strong solution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean was applied to the floor and then scrubbed in with a black buffing pad fitted to a rotary machine. These pads can struggle to reach into the grout lines so they were given an extra clean using handheld scrubbing brushes. This combination brought the dirt out of the floor to the surface where it could be extracted with a wet vacuum.

Tougher stains on the tiles were spot treated using more Pro-Clean and some of the grouting had to be scrubbed harder with wire brushes until the whole floor was consistently clean throughout.

Once done the floor was rinsed with a very weak dilution of Tile Doctor Grout Clean-Up to further clean the floor and neutralise it following the use of Pro-Clean which is a strong alkaline. The solution was then extracted with a wet vacuum and floor left to dry.

Sealing a Slate Tiled Kitchen

Once dry it was time to seal the floor which will protect it from ingrained dirt and enhance the finish. For this Tile Doctor Stone Oil was applied which being oil-based really improves the texture and dark colour of the stone.

The sealer is applied using a microfibre cloth and any excess product is wiped off before buffing with a white buffing pad on the rotary machine. This left a nice sheen to the tile and a consistent look throughout.

Our client was very happy with the finish, the Slate and Grout had been transformed and the sealer had really enhanced the look of the slate. For aftercare we recommended using Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner which will provide effective cleaning whilst not impacting the seal.

Source: Black Slate Floor Cleaning and Sealing Service near Acton London