Tips for Removing Ceramic Tile

 Success at removing ceramic tiles from floors depends on the material the tile was fastened to at installation. In a very old house, the tiles might have been glued directly to a cement subfloor, making removal very difficult. In a newer property (built within the last 40 years), the ceramic tiles were probably fastened to a lightweight cement backer board, nailed to the timber subfloor. Follow these steps for effective removal of ceramic tiles attached to cement board.

What You'll Need:

• 75mm (3-inch) stiff-bladed scraper or filling knife

• Small flat-headed hammer

• Flat garden spade

• Steel crowbar

• Portable angle grinder

• Wet/dry vacuum cleaner

• Wraparound safety goggles

• Heavy leather gloves

• Long-sleeved shirt or jacket

• Half-face dust mask

Step 1: Start at the Edge of the Floor

Prepare to remove tiles from a floor edge that adjoins carpet, vinyl tiles, or other surfaces. Place the scraper under the edge of a tile, and tap it with the small hammer to lift off a tile. Depending on the strength of the tile adhesive, the cement board may come free along with the tiles.

Step 2: Remove the Tile Grout

Pry between the tiles with the scraper to pulverise the grout, so you can more easily pop the tile from the backing board. If the grout is very hard, use the angle grinder to grind out the grout and release the tile more easily.

Step 3: Continue to Remove Single Tiles

Once you have removed the tile grout and a few tiles, slip the scraper under each tile with the handle as close to the floor as possible. Tap the knife handle sharply with the hammer. The tile may break up or lift off all in one piece. Continue to remove tiles until a section of cement board about 20 cm by 15 cm is exposed. Avoid striking ceramic or porcelain tiles with the hammer, as they will shear into razor-sharp flaked pieces.

Step 4: Remove the Cement Board with Tiles Attached

Once you have cleared tiles off an area of cement board, break it up with the hammer so you can see the floor joists. Insert the flat garden spade under the cement board and use it as a lever to remove larger areas of the board with the tiles attached. Stop from time to time and vacuum the area with a wet/dry vacuum cleaner to avoid inhaling cement and tile dust. Move the spade to the left or right side of the floor joist as you encounter the nails used to attach the cement board. The bigger the gap you can create between the cement board and the floor joists, the larger the area of tile you can remove at once.  

Step 5: Remove the Nails from the Cement Board

Use a claw hammer or a steel crowbar with a nail slot to pull the nails out of the cement board. You can then remove these fragments from the floor joists and dispose of them.  

Step 6: If the Cement Board was Screwed Down

Use a power drill with a screwdriver bit to back the screws out of the cement board pieces, then remove and discard them. Vacuum the room thoroughly to remove dust from all surfaces.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Paint a Concrete Floor

Putting a fresh coat of paint on an old concrete floor can cover over stains and scuffs quite well. If you are planning on painting concrete floors then you must remember that concrete is naturally porous.

What You'll Need:

• Plastic sheet
• Tape
• Tri sodium phosphate
• Vacuum cleaner
• Sponge mop
• Scrub brushes
• Primer
• Warm water
• Concrete patch
• Concrete sealer
• Paint roller
• Paint roller trays
• Paint brushes
• Cloths

Step 1 - Remove Existing Paint

If you have a previously painted concrete floor then you will need to remove the existing paint. This can be done with a scraper. It is important to remove all of the old paint so it allows the new paint to settle in as well as not show through onto the new layer.

Step 2 - Patch Concrete

If the concrete floor has any nicks or cracks in it then you should apply a concrete patch to these locations. Concrete patch can be found in any home or hardware store.

Step 3 - Clean Floor

Use tri sodium phosphate and warm water and a scrub brush to clean any grease stains on the floor. These can cause problems with the paint bonding to the surface so it is extremely important you remove all loose oil. Allow the floor to dry completely before continuing. The time needed for this will depend on the climate but 24 to 36 hours is average.

Step 4 - Tape Around

After you have cleaned the floor, make sure you line the area with tape. It is important to match the tape up to the floor to ensure it doesn’t make marks on the walls or baseboard.

Step 5 - Apply the Sealer

Poor some concrete sealer into a paint roller pan. Use a paint roller to apply the sealer over the entire area of concrete you are planning to paint. It is not necessary with many paints to apply a sealer but sealing the concrete will help to add an additional layer of protection from both the paint and future spills which could potentially stain the concrete.
When applying the sealer, move the roller in even, slow motions. Do not place a lot of sealer down. Excess sealer may bubble up and create problems. A thin coat of sealer is all that is necessary. Use a brush to get the outer perimeter and corners. Allow the sealer to dry for 24 to 36 hours before proceeding.

Step 6 - Priming the Floor

If the paint you are using to paint your concrete floor contains a primer then you can apply it directly. If it does not then you will need to apply a coat of primer. The primer can be added with a standard roller and brush. You should use smooth even motions and keep the layer thin but ensure it fully coats the floor. Allow the primer to dry for 24-36 hours.

Step 7 - Paint the Floor

Pour the paint into a roller pan. Use a roller and brush to paint the entire floor. Try to do it in smaller sections. When painting, make sure that the paint goes on thinly but covers completely. Do not attempt to finish the entire floor in one quote by putting a thick layer on. Allow the floor to dry and apply a second coat of paint and allow to dry for 24 hours.

Step 8 - Seal the Floor

After you add the second coat of paint you can add a top layer of sealant. This will help the paint to remain intact and make cleanups a lot easier.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com 

Removing Ceramic Tile

 Depending on where they are and how they're installed, removing ceramic tiles can be either a nightmare or a relatively simple job requiring little effort. Stripping all the ceramic tiles from a wall or floor, rather than just trying to remove one or a small number, will also be easier simply because you're not worrying about damaging the surrounding tiles. Here are a number of different situations in which you’ll be removing ceramic tile and some ideas on how to do it right.

What You'll Need:

• Putty knife
• Hammer
• Chisel
• Flat-blade shovel
• Safety glasses
• Gloves
• Dust mask

Ceramic Wall Tiles on Cement Board or Gyproc

This is by far the easiest situation. If you want to protect the underlying wall, take a three-inch, stiff putty knife and hold it at a very low angle relative to the wall. Starting at the edge of the wall, place the blade against the mastic and give the handle a solid tap with a hammer. In most cases the knife will slide under the tile and by simply lifting the handle up, the tile will pop off the wall.

Removing a single tile from a wall can be trickier. In this case, your first step is to remove the grout surrounding the tile using a rotary tool, a thin chisel, or a grout removing tool. Once you've taken care of the grout, use your stiff putty knife again, tapping the end to slide it under the tile.

Removing Tiles on Concrete Board

Removing floor tiles laid on cement board is more work than wall tiles but the methodology is similar. Choose an edge, where flooring and the wall come together, and start by removing any edgings or moldings. Now, you may be able to remove a starter tile using your putty knife, but more likely, you will need to remove the grout around a few tiles first.

Once you get a few starter tiles off the floor, break up the underlying cement board by banging on it with your hammer and discard it. Now you've created a small opening where you can slide a flat-bladed shovel under both the cement board and the ceramic tiles. Lifting up the shovel from underneath will break the cement board and the grout holding the tile so you can remove it. Repeat the process, sliding the shovel under the cement board then lifting and you can get rid of the floor in chunks.

Old Ceramic Tiles Laid Directly onto a Cement Base

This is by far the most difficult situation to deal with and thankfully this installation technique isn't used anymore. There are lots of old homes with ceramic tiles installed right onto a cement base. Once the mortar has cured, the concrete base and the floor tiles are in reality a single piece. There are only a few ways to remove ceramic tiles in this situation. One solution is to break up the tiles with a sledge hammer. However, it's a back-breaking, labor intensive project, and you risk damaging the base if you’re not careful.

The easier solution to this problem is to use a chisel and a hammer. You will want to start at a broken tile, if you have one, or in an area with loose grout so you can get the chisel under the tile. As you get the chisel tip underneath, tap the end of the tool with your hammer to work it further in. These tools will also work to chip away at the old thinset mortar adhered to the floor, which can’t be removed with a sledgehammer. It will be a time-consuming job, but one that will get you a good, clean subfloor to proceed from.

A Safety Reminder

No matter whether you're removing a whole floor or wall of tiles or just a single tile, remember you need to wear wrap-around eye protection, good quality work gloves, and a dust mask. Obviously, it's also a good idea to place protective covering on the floors and walls around where you're working.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Getting a Great Finish on a Black Slate Kitchen Floor in Hounslow

This Slate tiled floor at a property in the West of London suburb of Hounslow was not looking its best and now in need of a strip and seal to restore its appearance. The decorators the client used had agreed to clean and re-seal the floor after painting but unfortunately didn’t do a good job of it. I suspect they applied the sealer without rinsing properly and didn't allow the floor to dry fully beforehand.

 

My client was unhappy with the finish and so asked me to quote for resolving the problems. I went over to survey the floor and advised the client that to rectify the problems we would need to strip off the sealer they had applied, clean the floor again and then reseal with the correct product. They were happy to go ahead with my recommendation as they wanted the floor restored to its pre-decoration state. They agreed my quote and we scheduled a mutually convenient time to carry out the works.

 

Cleaning a Slate Tiled Kitchen Diner Floor

In order to break up the sealer, a coatings remover was applied to the floor called Tile Doctor Remove and Go. This is a strong sealer stripper that breaks up the sealer allowing it to be removed. This was left to dwell for a short while to lift the sealer.

The products were then scrubbed into the floor using a heavy-duty machine, alongside this we also applied another cleaning product called Tile Doctor Pro-Clean. This action ensured that all the sealer was removed and it also removed any dirt that had been left on the surface. The floor was then low pressure rinsed and the old sealer and soils were then vacuumed away leaving the floor ready for sealing.

 

Sealing a Slate Tiled Kitchen Diner Floor

The following day, after allowing the floor to dry overnight with the under-floor heating it was ready for sealing. Two coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow sealer were applied which is a durable impregnating product that works by occupying the pores in the stone preventing dirt from residing there.

This sealer also contains a colour enhancer which is ideal for Black Slate as it further darkened the colour and brought out the contrast in the tiles. This product is also fully breathable and recommended for use on a large variety of flooring and can even be used externally.

 

The client pointed out that it looked like it did when originally installed and was very pleased to say the least. Before leaving I took time to discuss aftercare and recommended the use of Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner. This is a pH neutral tile cleaning product that is mild enough to be used regularly and will ensure that the newly applied sealer will stay in place. The new sealer will also ensure cleaning will now be easier which the client was very grateful for.

 

Source: Tile Cleaning and Renovation Service in Hounslow Middlesex

Renovating Old Victorian Hallway Tiles in Cleckheaton, West Yorkshire

I was asked to visit an old house from the Victorian era in Cleckheaton which is part of the West Yorkshire district of Kirklees and only 14 miles from my base in Oxenhope. The owners had bought the house last year and had been renovating it ever since. The last job was to sort out the Victorian tiled hallway that they knew from the previous owners had been covered by carpet for over 50 years.

Leaving the floor restoration until last was a sensible decision as the last thing you need is for a decorator to drip paint over your recently renovated floor. I could see the floor was in good physical condition but had layers of dirt, old sealant and of course paint splashes on it but after doing a test clean I knew that we could bring it back to life and return it to something like its former glory.


The test clean is an important part of our survey as it gives the customer confidence we know what we’re talking about and it gives me a chance to work out the best way of cleaning the floor, so I can provide a more accurate quotation (see below). The owner of the property was impressed with the results of the test clean and keen to have the full potential of the Victorian tiled floor revealed booked me in to do a full clean and seal.

Deep Cleaning a Very Dirty Victorian Tiled Hallway Floor

Normally, we would clean these floors using our rotary machines and chemicals to break down the layers of dirt but in this instance that was not going to be effective. I worked this out during the test clean where I discovered that the tiles were very porous so that any liquid that was put on the floor was immediately absorbed into it. This meant that any chemicals that I applied to the floor did not have time to work before they were absorbed into the floor. When these floors were originally laid there was no damp-proof membrane laid underneath which leaves them very susceptible to damp issues and salting from efflorescence.

After trying a couple of different methods, I decided that the only way to get this floor clean was to use handheld diamond blocks and a small amount of water to clean the floor in very small sections at a time and then immediately remove the residue before it dried back into the floor. This was obviously very time consuming but did remove the dirt very effectively, it also meant that I wouldn’t exacerbate any efflorescence issues which could happen when excessive amounts of water are used.


Once the whole floor was clean it was given an Acid Wash with Tile Doctor Acid Gel to neutralise any potential salting issues. The gel was then rinsed off with water and extracted using a wet vacuum to remove as much moisture as possible from the floor. The now clean floor was then left to dry off thoroughly, so it would be ready for sealing.

Sealing an Old Victorian Tiled Hallway Floor in

A couple of days later I returned and started by checking the moisture levels in a couple of areas to verify that the tiles were dry enough to be sealed. All was well and so I proceeded to seal the floor with a couple of coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is an impregnating sealer that seeps into the pores of the tile protecting it from within. Colour Grow is also a colour enhancing sealer that improves the natural colours in the tile and most importantly it’s a breathable sealer that will allows any moisture rising through the tile to evaporate. Using a breathable sealer is highly recommended for floors with no damp-proof membrane as moisture can become trapped under the tile which over time can cause damp to rise through the walls and even tiles to become loose.


The Customers were very impressed by the transformation in their floor and hopefully you can see from the photos how much of a difference that has been made to the floor.


Source: Victorian Tile Cleaning and Renovation Service in Kirklees

Getting the Best From Multi-Coloured Slate in Yorkshire

The owner of this house in Silkstone, which is a village situated in the foothills of the Pennines a few miles West of Barnsley, had inherited this Kitchen Slate floor from the previous owner of the house and in the years, they'd lived at the house they hadn't done anything with the floor. Slate tiles are beautiful but like any natural stone you really need to maintain the sealer if you want them to stay that way, once the sealer wears off dirt can penetrate the pores of the stone resulting in a floor that always looks dull and dirty.


In this case of this Slate floor the sealer had worn off many years prior and a thick layer of grime had built up on top of what was once an amazing looking floor. Stone floors never come with a care guide and the process of degradation happens so slowly, so you can understand how this could happen over time.

Cleaning Dirty Slate Kitchen Tiles

Before starting I protected the wooden kitchen units from splashing using plastic sheeting. Next step was to soak the tiles in a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go and Pro-Clean combined into a strong cleaning and stripping cocktail. The solution was left to dwell for ten minutes before being scrubbed in using a black scrubbing pad fitted to a rotary floor machine running at slow speed to break through the grime and the sealers and oils that the previous owner had used on the slate. The pad is good at scrubbing the tiles but struggles to get into the grout so after the tiles were scrubbed I followed by running a stiff brush along the grout lines to give them a thorough clean. The soiled cleaning solution was rinsed off the tiles with water and then extracted off the floor using a wet vacuum. With the floor clear it was inspected, and problem areas re-treated using the same process. Once I was satisfied that the Slate and the Grout was clean and clear of old sealers I gave the whole floor a final rinse to remove any trace of cleaning products and then dried as much as possible using the wet vacuum. The floor was then left to dry out fully overnight.

Sealing Kitchen Slate Tiles

Returning to the property the next day, I ran some quick damp tests to check for any excess moisture that might have prevented me from sealing the floor. We will always do this as excess moisture can affect the sealer curing. Our client had previously decided that they liked the look of our High Shine Sealer due to how it brings the stunning colours of the Slate out. High Shine Sealer is a specially formulated water-based blend of acrylic polymers that provides both a stain resistant surface seal and a durable high-sheen finish. Four coats of sealer were applied and when the customer arrived home later that day they were totally blown away by the floor and how amazing it looked.




Source: Slate Tile Cleaning and Restoration Service in Yorkshire

Renovating Dull Encaustic Hallway Tiles in Hertfordshire

I had an enquiry from a client in the London commuter town of Berkhamsted who had a beautiful Encaustic tiled floor in their hallway which was in need of cleaning. Encaustic tiles are made from layers of cement that are hydraulically compressed to make a very hardwearing surface that can then be decorated. The result is an easy to clean hardwearing surface that is ideal for high traffic areas such as hallways.


Encaustic tiles however are micro-porous so do need to be sealed to prevent dirt from becoming ingrained in the tiny holes. The tiles at this property in Berkhamsted had been sealed at some point in the past but over the years the sealer had worn down lettering dirt enter the pores making it difficult to clean effectively. The floor now required a deep clean and seal to bring back the life into this artistic floor pattern.

Encaustic Tiled Floor Cleaning

We first removed what was left of the old sealer and ground in dirt using a coarse 400 grit Red burnishing pad attached to a rotary floor buffer. The burnishing pads we use are encrusted with industrial diamond and are applied using water for lubrication, once the pad has been run over all the tiles the floor is rinsed with more water which is then extracted with a wet vacuum to remove the slurry that is generated. The coarse pad was the followed by a medium 800 grit burnishing pad which is the first step in restoring the appearance of the tiles and is applied and rinsed off using the same process as the 400 grit. The 800 grit pads is followed by the 1500 grit pad which is the second step In restoring the appearance of the tile. Again, the pad is applied with water to lubricate and the floor given a good rinse afterwards. The next step was to get the grout clean which was done by applying Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which was left for ten minutes before being scrubbed in by hand with a narrow stiff brush. The floor was then given yet another rinse and then dried with the wet vacuum to remove the dirt that was generated from the grout. The last step in the cleaning process was to run over the floor with a very fine 3000 grit pad, this last pad is the final step in restoring the appearance of the tile and is applied dry with only a little water that is sprayed on using a technique we like to call spray burnishing.

Encaustic Tiled Floor Sealing

Once the floor was dry it was sealed using two coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is an impregnating sealer that seeps into the pores of the tile protecting it from within. This sealer has the added advantage of enhancing the existing colours in the tile improving its overall appearance. The overall process worked incredibly well and made a huge difference to the floor as you can see in the final photograph.


To keep Encaustic floor tiles in first class condition I recommend the use of the Tile Doctor Neutral Tile cleaner which being pH neutral does not reduce the life of the sealer and is ideal for the cleaning of all types of sealed floors. The product comes in a concentrated form, so I recommend it’s used in a mild 1-30 dilution spray applied and wiped over with a microfibre flat mop, then buffed dry.


Source: Encaustic Tile Cleaning and Sealing Service in Hertfordshire

Renovating very old Quarry Tiles in Berkshire

These Yellow and Black Quarry tiles are though to be original feature of this Victorian house in Reading and the owner was keen to get them renovated. The tiles were in basement of the house and over the years the tiles had suffered from water damage due to various small floods, they were now heavily soiled and the most challenging task would be to remove a large build up of mortar and cement.


I ran a test clean in a corner of the smallest room to demonstrate the cleaning process and although confident I could significantly improve the appearance of the Quarry tiles. I had to explain to my customer that due to the years of neglect the outcome would not be perfect, however the test clean went well and the customer was happy with the outcome so booked me in to do the work.

Soiled Quarry Tile Cleaning

The first issue to tackle was to remove the dirt and ingrain soil which I did by scrubbing in a strong mix of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which is a strong tile and grout cleaner. The solution was left to soak in before ten minutes before being agitated with a black scrubbing pad fitted to a rotary machine. I then rinsed off the now soiled cleaning solution off using a hot water truck mounted extraction system.


Now the ingrained dirt was taken care of, the most difficult task was to remove the cement/mortar built up that was covering a high percentage of the tiles. I did this using a combination of Tile Doctor products including Grout Clean-Up, Acid Gel and 50,100 grit diamond pads. I started with Grout Clean-up but found that Acid Gel worked better on this occasion. To deal with stubborn areas I left the Acid Gel to dwell overnight covered with plastic sheeting so it wouldn’t dry out.

The Acid Gel worked wonders and I was able to complete the cleaning process when I came back the next day giving the floor another rinse with the hot water extraction system. With the quarry tiles now clear I able to do a final spot check and used hand held burnishing blocks and very coarse 50 grit milling pad followed by a 100 grit diamond pad and another rinse to finish it off.

Quarry Tile Sealing

After leaving the floor to dry out over the weekend it was ready to be sealed. We had agreed on giving the Quarry Tiles a matt finish so I used three coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is a fully breathable colour enhancing sealer that works well on old clay tiles.


I’m happy to say the floor turned out very well considering its condition, certainly my customer was very happy with the outcome and left the following feed back on the Tile Doctor Feedback system.

  “Fantastic job - completely revived our Victorian cellar tiles, the before and after photos accurately show the difference the work has made! Also impressed by Dennis's communication and responsiveness to our needs with the work”.





Source: Quarry Tile Cleaning, Renovation and Maintenance Service in Reading, Berkshire

Screed Covered Quarry Tiled Floor Renovated in South London

Pictures below of a Quarry Tiled floor that a customer had discovered when taking up the lino at her house in Coulsdon. Realising the floor was original and worth saving she contacted Tile Doctor and I popped round to take a look.

A lot of the tiles had been covered in a screed to provide a flat base for the Lino and that would need removing. In order to be sure what treatments would work to remove the screen and successfully restore the Quarry tiles without causing any damage I ran a couple of tests and everything seemed ok.


We could both see the job wasn’t going to be easy and would take some days to complete so I worked out a price which was accepted and we agreed a date for the work to start.

Removing Screed from Quarry Tiles

The Quarry tiles in the WC hadn’t been covered in Lino so they would just need a good clean and seal so the main work would be in the Hallway and Kitchen. Fortunately my customer was having a lot of other work done in the house and was in the middle of stripping the walls so I didn’t need to worry too much about protecting the skirting boards etc.

Working in sections I soaked the screed in water and then carefully chipped away at it until it came loose, it was slow work but I could see the process was working as expected and eventually all the Quarry tiles were revealed. There was still a lot of cement from the screed stuck to the surface of the tile so after sweeping up the chippings I set to work applying a strong solution of Tile Doctor Grout Clean-up to the tiles and leaving it to soak in for a short while. Grout Clean-Up is an acidic product that we normally use for removing grout smears from the surface of tiles. The solution was scrubbed in and then rinsed off with water and extracted with a wet vacuum.


To get the tiles in the toilet clean I gave them a good scrub with Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which is a reliable and effective Tile and Grout cleaner. Once clean they were rinsed with water and dried with the wet vacuum.

Sealing Quarry Tiles

I had timed my visit between working being carried out at the property so I was able to leave the floor for a few days so it could thoroughly dry out. I returned later to check the Quarry tiles were dry and completed the renovation by sealing the floor with Tile Doctor Seal and Go which is a water based sealer that works really well on Quarry tiles. Five coats of Seal and Go were needed to fully seal the tiles and the floor now looks transformed.

The owner was very satisfied with the improvements and before leaving I advised to cover the floor before starting the decorating work.


Source: Quarry Tile Cleaning and Sealing Service in South London

Renovating a Brazilian Slate Tiled Kitchen Floor in Lancashire

Rough Slate is notorious for homeowners to maintain as dirt can quickly become trapped in the rough surfaces. The example on this page is that of Brazilian Semi Riven Slate installed in the Kitchen of a house in the village of Hornby, which while naturally cleft from the rock loses none of its texture and style and yet has a much smother appearance than the typical rough Slates from China. Less processing means it’s not quite completely smooth but it is a lot less expensive to buy than say a honed or polished Slate which is more difficult to maintain due to various polishing techniques required to keep up the appearance. Brazilian Slate is in fact one of my favourite slates to clean and also one of the most rewarding of Slates to seal as the sealer really does bring out the colour and character of the stone.

Sealers provide a protective barrier on natural stone floors and without it dirt can penetrate into the pores of the stone making it more and more difficult to clean effectively. Unfortunately on this floor the new homeowners were unaware on what sort of Stone it was and had no idea how to look after it which resulted in the sealer wearing down prematurely and the floor becoming dull and un-inviting.

Cleaning Black Semi-Riven Brazilian Slate Tiles

To restore the appearance of the Slate floor we started by taping up the edges of the new kitchen units to protect the wood from splashing. This was followed with an application of a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-clean worked in with a black buffing pad fitted to a buffing machine running at slow speed (working at a slower speed results in less splashing). The pads can struggle to reach the edges and corners so these were cleaned by hand.

Once we had finished on the main floor area we then concentrated on the grout using a steam cleaner and more Pro-clean scrubbed in with a narrow stiff brush.

Last step of the cleaning was to rinse the floor with water to remove any trace of cleaning products from the Slate and then dried off the floor the best we could with our high wattage wet vacuum machine and left the floor to dry off naturally over night.

Sealing Black Semi-Riven Brazilian Slate Tiles

The next day we returned to seal the floor checking first that the floor had completely dried. The customer had requested a matt finish however we have worked on Brazilian Slate many times before and we knew how good they can look with this Satin finish sealer. Naturally its the customers decision so we offered to do a test piece and let them decide if they didn't like it we would strip off the test piece and apply a Matt finish sealer like Tile Doctor Colour Grow instead.

The floor was dry so a couple of coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go were applied to one Tile so that they could appreciate how it would look. Luckily the customer agreed with us and so we set about sealing the whole floor with Seal and Go.

To speed up the drying process Air Blowers were installed as we worked and it wasn’t long before the sealer was dry and the customers were able to walk on the floor and inspect every area before we left. I’m please to report that they were over the moon with the floor and my recommendation of sealer.


To maintain the slate tiles going forward we always give our customers a free bottle of Tile Doctor pH neutral tile cleaner, which is a little incentive for them to provide some feedback via our website. 


Source: Slate Tile Cleaning and Sealing Service in Lancashire

Renovating an Old Terrazzo Floor in West Midlands

This post follows on from the Victorian Tiled floor article I published earlier, if you recall I was asked to restore a Victorian Tiled Hallway at a house in Dudley and there was a section that was Terrazzo, so I thought it would make sense to write about this separately as the cleaning method is different. Both period floors were original, having been installed when the house was built over 100 years prior and whilst Victorian tiles are quite the norm in these properties it’s quite unusual to find Terrazzo as this was mostly used in large public buildings. There was a crack running across the floor which is quite a common problem with Terrazzo as it’s laid in one piece like concrete and any movement in the ground will cause stress leading to a crack. Unfortunately, the only way to resolve this properly is to have a Terrazzo expert relay that section of the floor which would prove expensive.


Terrazzo is the by-product of broken pieces of stone, often Marble, Limestone and Granite, which rather than being wasted are set into to a cement screed and poured onto the floor, then once the screed is set it is grinded to a polish.

Cleaning Original Victorian and Terrazzo Tiles

The polish on Terrazzo will eventually wear down with use and to restore the appearance it needs to be burnished with a series of pads with different grits from coarse to fine. So, to start the renovation I gave it a general clean with Tile Doctor Pro-Clean mainly to remove any grit before burnishing. Next, the Terrazzo tiles were cleaned using a coarse 400 grit pad fitted to a rotary machine and lubricated with water. This process removes dirt and any coatings such as sealers and the floor needs to be rinsed afterwards to remove the slurry that is generated. Then to build back the polished appearance, the floor is burnished with an 800 grit medium pad followed by a 1500 grit fine pad. Less water is used this time, but you do need to rinse the floor again after each pad to remove any slurry gets generated during the process. Once this was done the floor was dried with a wet vacuum and left to dry off fully overnight.

Sealing a Terrazzo Floor

The next day, I returned to the property and started with a damp test to make sure the floor was dry and ready for sealing. The floor was dry so I finished the Burnishing process by applying the last pad in the set which is a 3,000 grit (very fine) pad that adds the final polish to the Terrazzo. To protect the floor from staining and dirt becoming ingrained in the pores of Terrazzo it was then sealed with two coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is a colour enhancing impregnating sealer that protects from within. Once the sealer had dried the floor was buffed with a white pad.


The floor looked a lot cleaner and shiner at the end and the customer was very happy with the transformation.


Source: Terrazzo Tile Cleaning and Restoration Service in Dudley, West Midlands

Old Terrazzo Floor Fully Restored as Part of Renovation Work in Llandudno

The Washington Hotel in Llandudno, North Wales, is a truly historic building and one of the enduring features on the promenade of the sea resort. This beautiful part of Wales was the holiday destination of choice for Lewis Carrol, the famed author of Alice in Wonderland, and you can see several statues of him in and around the town. The Washington Hotel first opened in 1855, but was rebuilt in 1925 after being destroyed by a fire. The building most recently served as a nightclub, before it Read more...

Old Terrazzo Restaurant Floor Fully Restored in North Wales

The Washington Hotel in Llandudno, North Wales, is a truly historic building and one of the enduring features on the promenade of the sea resort. This beautiful part of Wales was the holiday destination of choice for Lewis Carrol, the famed author of Alice in Wonderland, and you can see several statues of him in and around the town. The Washington Hotel first opened in 1855, but was rebuilt in 1925 after being destroyed by a fire. The building most recently served as a nightclub, before it Read more...