The Easiest Way to Tile a Backsplash

Installing a splashback is one of the most effective DIY projects for transforming a kitchen. It is a manageable task that, with the right tools, can yield a professional finish while saving on labour costs.

What is the Easiest Splashback to Install?

1. Vinyl Stick-On: The simplest option. These come in sheets or individual "tiles" with a peel-and-stick backing. They can be installed over paint, wood, or even existing tiles. They are easy to wipe clean and ideal for renters as they can be removed without surface damage.

2. Paint: A budget-friendly solution where you can mark out designs to mimic patterns or solid blocks of colour.

3. Beadboard: Available in pre-fabricated kits or sheets. For kitchens, bathrooms, or utility rooms, choose vinyl beadboard over MDF, as MDF can swell in moist environments.

4. Faux Tile and Brick: Thin, lightweight sheets that can be stuck over existing splashbacks or plain walls using a small amount of adhesive (like Gripfill or Liquid Nails).

5. Laminate Flooring: You can use leftover laminate flooring on walls. Unlike flooring, which "floats," these must be tacked into place using a brad nailer.

6. Real Tile: For the easiest experience with real ceramics, use pre-fabricated tile sheets. These are real tiles pre-mounted on a mesh backing, ensuring consistent spacing and a much faster installation.

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Step-by-Step Installation Guide

Step 1: Measure Your Space

Measure the width and height of every section. Identify "stop points" like the underside of a wall cupboard or a window sill.

• Top Tip: Plan your layout so you end with whole tiles at the top where possible to avoid difficult lengthwise cuts (ripping).

Step 2: Factor in Material Waste

Always buy 10% more material than required. You will have odd cuts around corners and electrical sockets, and some tiles may break. Keep offcuts for future repairs or mosaic work.

Step 3: Identify Your Starting Point

• Corners: Start at the corner and work outwards in both directions.

• Long Walls: Start in the centre and work towards the edges.

• Focal Points: If you have a window or a range cooker, start there and work outwards to maintain symmetry.

Step 4: Protect the Area

Cover worktops, hobs, and sinks with dust sheets, newspaper, or heavy-duty bin liners. Ensure the protection doesn't cover the specific part of the wall you are tiling.

Step 5: Set Up a Wet Tile Saw

For ceramic or porcelain, an electric wet tile saw is recommended. It uses water to cool the diamond blade, preventing sparks, burn marks, and cracking. Ensure the reservoir is filled and the saw is on a stable, flat surface.

Step 6: The First Row

Mark the centre of the wall and "dry fit" (place without adhesive) the bottom row. Use tile spacers between every tile and between the tiles and the worktop. Once satisfied, apply tile adhesive to the back of each tile with a trowel and press into place.

• Crucial: Use a spirit level on this first row. If the foundation is slanted, every row above it will be crooked.

Step 7: Continue Tiling

Work your way up the wall. You can stack tiles vertically for clean lines or stagger them for a "brick" look. Remove any adhesive that squeezes out onto the front of the tiles immediately; do not let it dry.

Step 8: Cutting Tips

• Apply painter’s tape to the tile before marking your cut line to prevent chipping.

• Always cut with the finished "face" up.

• For complex cuts (like around a light switch), make several parallel "finger" cuts into the waste area with the saw, then snap them off with tile nippers and tidy the edge.

Step 9: Grout

After the adhesive has cured for a few days, remove the spacers. Apply grout using a grout float, pressing it into the gaps with a diagonal motion. Work in small sections. After a few minutes, wipe away excess grout with a damp (not soaking) sponge.

Step 10: Caulking

Apply a bead of silicone sealant (caulk) where the tiles meet the cabinets and the worktop. This provides a finished look and prevents water from getting behind the tiles.

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Pro Hack: Adhesive Mats

Instead of using traditional wet adhesive (mastic), you can use tile adhesive mats. These act like heavy-duty double-sided tape. Apply the mat to a clean, dry wall, peel off the front backing, and stick your tiles directly onto it. You can grout immediately afterward without waiting for the adhesive to dry.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Removing Ceramic Tile

 Depending on where they are and how they're installed, removing ceramic tiles can be either a nightmare or a relatively simple job requiring little effort. Stripping all the ceramic tiles from a wall or floor, rather than just trying to remove one or a small number, will also be easier simply because you're not worrying about damaging the surrounding tiles. Here are a number of different situations in which you’ll be removing ceramic tile and some ideas on how to do it right.

What You'll Need:

• Putty knife
• Hammer
• Chisel
• Flat-blade shovel
• Safety glasses
• Gloves
• Dust mask

Ceramic Wall Tiles on Cement Board or Gyproc

This is by far the easiest situation. If you want to protect the underlying wall, take a three-inch, stiff putty knife and hold it at a very low angle relative to the wall. Starting at the edge of the wall, place the blade against the mastic and give the handle a solid tap with a hammer. In most cases the knife will slide under the tile and by simply lifting the handle up, the tile will pop off the wall.

Removing a single tile from a wall can be trickier. In this case, your first step is to remove the grout surrounding the tile using a rotary tool, a thin chisel, or a grout removing tool. Once you've taken care of the grout, use your stiff putty knife again, tapping the end to slide it under the tile.

Removing Tiles on Concrete Board

Removing floor tiles laid on cement board is more work than wall tiles but the methodology is similar. Choose an edge, where flooring and the wall come together, and start by removing any edgings or moldings. Now, you may be able to remove a starter tile using your putty knife, but more likely, you will need to remove the grout around a few tiles first.

Once you get a few starter tiles off the floor, break up the underlying cement board by banging on it with your hammer and discard it. Now you've created a small opening where you can slide a flat-bladed shovel under both the cement board and the ceramic tiles. Lifting up the shovel from underneath will break the cement board and the grout holding the tile so you can remove it. Repeat the process, sliding the shovel under the cement board then lifting and you can get rid of the floor in chunks.

Old Ceramic Tiles Laid Directly onto a Cement Base

This is by far the most difficult situation to deal with and thankfully this installation technique isn't used anymore. There are lots of old homes with ceramic tiles installed right onto a cement base. Once the mortar has cured, the concrete base and the floor tiles are in reality a single piece. There are only a few ways to remove ceramic tiles in this situation. One solution is to break up the tiles with a sledge hammer. However, it's a back-breaking, labor intensive project, and you risk damaging the base if you’re not careful.

The easier solution to this problem is to use a chisel and a hammer. You will want to start at a broken tile, if you have one, or in an area with loose grout so you can get the chisel under the tile. As you get the chisel tip underneath, tap the end of the tool with your hammer to work it further in. These tools will also work to chip away at the old thinset mortar adhered to the floor, which can’t be removed with a sledgehammer. It will be a time-consuming job, but one that will get you a good, clean subfloor to proceed from.

A Safety Reminder

No matter whether you're removing a whole floor or wall of tiles or just a single tile, remember you need to wear wrap-around eye protection, good quality work gloves, and a dust mask. Obviously, it's also a good idea to place protective covering on the floors and walls around where you're working.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Properly Clean Tile Grout Residue

Having clean tile grout is important to have a bathroom wall that looks nice. Once the tile is installed, grout is applied over the entire wall. It is pressed into the spaces between each tile using a rubber grout float. Until the grout sets and dries it can still be easily removed from the surface of the tile. It is not impossible to miss areas on the tile. Once the grout dries it will leave a grout residue or haze on the surface of the tile. You can clean tile grout haze and residue easily from the surface of the tiles and the following article will show you how to correctly do it.

What You'll Need:

• White distilled vinegar
• Spray bottle
• Water
• Green scrub pad
• Sponge
• Clean rag
• Baking soda
• Plastic bowl

Step 1 - Start Simple First

If you happen to notice a haze or residue forming on the tile within a day you can still clean the tile grout haze without chemicals. The simplest way to do this is to use warm water. Soak a normal sponge in the warm water and squeeze out the excess water. You want the sponge to be damp but not soaking wet. Use medium pressure and wipe clean the tile grout residue off of the surface of the tile. Dry the area with a clean rag and then run your hand over the area. If the residue was removed the tile will feel smooth whereas if there is still a residue on the tile it will feel somewhat coarse.

Step 2 - Use a Vinegar Solution

Vinegar is one of those household products that make for a great cleaner and can cut through grime and dirt. It can also clean tile grout residue. Fill a clean spray bottle with 4-parts warm water and 1-part white vinegar. Spray down the tile and allow the vinegar and water solution to work for a minute or two and then wipe down the tile with a clean rag. You can increase the strength of the solution by adding more vinegar. You can then clean the tiles off with pure water. If this does not clean the tile grout residue then you will need to use a stronger method.

Step 3 - Make a Chemical Reaction

You normally want to stay away from strong cleaners that you find in the store because some of them can eat away at the grout. They also are not very friendly to the environment and some can be dangerous to you if inhaled. They are always a last resort. This does not mean a simple chemical reaction cannot be used to clean tile grout residue. You will need a bowl, baking soda, water, and vinegar. Place baking soda in a bowl and add a few drops of water. Stir the water into the baking soda until it forms a smooth paste. Add water as needed. Apply the paste to the tile with a dry sponge. Fill a clean and dry water spray bottle with vinegar and then spray the area. The baking soda will react to the vinegar causing it to bubble and fizz. Once the chemical reaction slows or stops, simply wipe the area down with a damp rag.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Polishing Marble Wall and Floor Tiles in Suffolk

Not too long ago I was called down to a house in the small village of Elmswell, Suffolk. I was asked to take a look at a Marble floor and wall tiles which had become dull and lifeless over time, especially in high traffic areas and now need to be burnished to bring the polish back. In addition, my client was unhappy with the beige colour of the grout lines, requesting that I change the colour to white following the clean and polish. Cleaning and Polishing a Marble tiles To get the floor clean and bring back the polish I used a set of four diamond encrusted burnishing pads which have different levels of grit, applied to the Marble tiles with a small amount of water. I started with a Coarse pad, before moving on to a Medium pad, a Fine pad, and finally a Very Fine pad to achieve the desired polished look. The floor was given a thorough rinse between each pad in order to remove any excess residue that had resulted from the burnishing process. Once I had finished the floors I moved onto the Marble wall tiles in the bathroom where the same process was repeated, for wall tiles however you need to use the smaller six inch burnishing pads fitted to a hand held buffer. Sealing Marble Floor Tiles I left the floor to dry for a few days before returning to seal it for which I used Tile Read more...

Travertine Wall Tile Shower Refresh in Wandsworth

These travertine wall tiles were laid in a brick pattern in a large shower cubicle in a house in Wandsworth, South London. As you can see the tiles hadn't been cleaned for a couple of years and had become discoloured from the shampoo dyes etc, there was also some mould which is a common problem in wet areas and usually down to insufficient ventilation. The owner wanted to sell her house and was keen to get the shower looking like new again. Cleaning Travertine Wall Tiles We cleaned the Read more...

Cleaning, Polishing and Sealing a Marble floor and Wall Tiles in Elmswell

Not too long ago I was called down to a house in the small village of Elmswell, Suffolk. I was asked to take a look at a Marble floor and wall tiles which had become dull and lifeless over time, especially in high traffic areas and now need to be burnished to bring the polish back. In addition, my client was unhappy with the beige colour of the grout lines, requesting that I change the colour to white following the clean and polish. Cleaning and Polishing a Marble tiles To get the floor Read more...

Maintaining Marble Floor and Shower Wall Tiles

Not too long ago I was called down to a house in the small village of Elmswell, Suffolk. I was asked to take a look at a Marble floor and wall tiles which had become dull and lifeless over time, especially in high traffic areas and now need to be burnished to bring the polish back. In addition, my client was unhappy with the beige colour of the grout lines, requesting that I change the colour to white following the clean and polish.

Cleaning and Polishing a Marble tiles

To get the floor clean and bring back the polish I used a set of four diamond encrusted burnishing pads which have different levels of grit, applied to the Marble tiles with a small amount of water. I started with a Coarse pad, before moving on to a Medium pad, a Fine pad, and finally a Very Fine pad to achieve the desired polished look. The floor was given a thorough rinse between each pad in order to remove any excess residue that had resulted from the burnishing process. Once I had finished the floors I moved onto the Marble wall tiles in the bathroom where the same process was repeated, for wall tiles however you need to use the smaller six inch burnishing pads fitted to a hand held buffer.

Sealing Marble Floor Tiles

I left the floor to dry for a few days before returning to seal it for which I used Tile Doctor Shine Powder. This is a crystallising powder that offers a very high shine and tough durable finish. It it ground directly into the tiles, and can be used to seal all natural stone, including Marble, Granite, Limestone, Slate and Travertine, for both interior and exterior floors.

Changing the Grout Colour

My final task was to change the colour of the grout, as per my client's request. I did this using a couple of tubes of Tile Doctor Grout Colourant in white. The colourant is painted onto the grout with any excess wiped off the tile before it gets chance to harden. It’s an epoxy product that looks completely natural and additionally provides excellent stain protection for the future.


My client was very pleased with the results of my work and took the time to leave the following comment on the Tile Doctor feedback system. "I cannot praise the standard of Bruce Copping's work enough. He completely transformed the marble floors and shower room walls in my home and made them look brand new. His attention to detail was excellent, plus no mess, just a perfect finish and valuable advice on maintaining the walls and floors. I'm so relieved I was able to find Tile Doctor online; I'd almost given up hope of finding someone to sort out the problems with my marble, but Bruce Copping was superb. I'm absolutely delighted with the results and have no hesitation in recommending him."


Source: Tile and Stone Floor Cleaning and Polishing Services in Suffolk