How to Restore Old Quarry Tiles Covered by Vinyl

The owner of this property in the South London suburb of Cheam got in touch about restoring a Quarry tiled floor that had been covered with Vinyl tiles. After surveying the floor, it became clear that some of the original Quarry tiled floor was missing and had been replaced with concrete before covering with Vinyl.

     

To fully restore the Quarry tiles floor, it would therefore be necessary to dig out the concrete sections and tile with matching quarry tiles which had been supplied by the client. Once done we would then need to renovate both the old and the new sections of floor and seal them to achieve a consistent appearance. I was also asked to dig out an old matwell and prepare it for a new mat as part of the work.  

This was a large job, but following a site visit I was able to provide my client with an accurate price and arranged a time to carry the work out which would take five days.

    

Removing Vinyl Tiles

The first part of the job was to lift the existing Vinyl tiles which had been laid on top of the Quarry tiles. I used a heat gun to help loosen the adhesive and then assisted with a steamer scrubbed Tile Doctor HBU Nanotech stripper into the floor to remove the glue and bitumen from the surface of the newly exposed Quarry tiles.

    

Restoring the Appearance of a Quarry Tiled Floor

The soiled solution was extracted with a wet vacuum and I followed up by giving the Quarry tiles an acid rinse using Tile Doctor Acid Gel. The Gel is applied to the tiles and then scrubbed in with a Black pad fitted to a rotary machine. This process removes old traces of cement and grout from the quarry tiles and further cleans them up. After this the floor was rinsed thoroughly and the soil extracted with a wet vacuum.

   

The next focus was on digging out the concrete areas mentioned earlier and then preparing the subfloor for tiling with self-levelling compound, which of course needs time to set. Once ready the replacement tiles were fixed in place making cuts as necessary and placing them to follow the original floor pattern. This may sound quite this sound straight forward, but this part of the job took some time to complete. The floor was left for a couple of days so the new tiles could set and the whole area could dry out before sealing.

 

Sealing a Quarry Tiled Hallway Floor

I returned later to seal all the Quarry tiles with Tile Doctor Colour Grow which brings out the deep Orange colours in the tiles whilst adding protection from staining and ingrained dirt. This sealer works by occupying the pores in the tile so dirt cannot become ingrained there. Four coats of sealer where applied across the whole floor leaving a nice matt finish that was consistent across the whole floor.

Before leaving I discussed with the client the best way to maintain the floor in the future and recommended the use of Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner which is a pH neutral cleaner. This is important as its gentle enough to use frequently and won’t strip off the newly applied sealer like many household floor cleaners will. Its supplied in concentrated form so a small amount of cleaner goes a long way.

The client was delighted with the results, they were very pleased to see the back of the tired Vinyl floor and pleased the floor now looked consistent throughout.

   

Source: Quarry Floor Tile Cleaning and Renovation Service in South London

Installing Ceramic Tile on Metal Surfaces

As long as you have a rigid hard substrate, installing ceramic tile on metal surfaces is no different than installing it on concrete. Using a fortified thinset adhesive will do the trick plus eliminate any need for a concrete backerboard. It is a fairly easy do-it-yourself job that can be accomplished successfully following some simple to use instructions. Adding ceramic tile to say, a metal floor, can produce a greater control for creating a decorative design that will enhance the beauty of your home while increasing its value.

What you’ll need

1. Ceramic tile
2. Fortified thinset
3. Trowel
4. Tile spacers
5. Grout
6. Grout float
7. Tile and grout sealer

Step 1 – Select Your Tile

The amount of ceramic tile available in today’s building construction industry is staggering, sometimes overwhelming. There’s not enough time to examine all that is available. However, use the Internet to do your search starting with the elements that appeal to you, like color and type of pattern. Write down the name and manufacturer of each tile you do like making sure they are available locally. Once you’ve narrowed your search down to a number that can easily be handled – say five or six – make a visit to the home improvement center or building supply store where these are available. Check the tile out in person to make sure the color that attracted you when viewing online is the color you find in the showroom. If possible, buy a single sample tile of each you like to bring these home to eye them in the environment where you will install the ceramic tile floor.

Step 2 –Measure Carefully

Take accurate measurements of the square footage in the area where you will install the ceramic tile floor. Use these measurements with the help of your home improvement center or building supply store professional to determine the amount of supplies to get the job done successfully. Always allow about a 10 to 15 percent overrun for mistakes and unforeseen needs for extra material.

Step 3 – Clean the Area

Makes sure the entire metal surface is clean from any dirt, oil, grease and other residue. The tile adhesive will not bond properly unless the surface area is perfectly clean.

Step 4 – Apply Adhesive

Working in 15 square foot segments, apply adhesive to the metal surface area using a trowel. Spread enough in your segmented work area that will allow you to finish that spot in less than 10 minutes. Place the tile into the adhesive using firm exertion in a circular type motion to ensure a proper bond. Place spacers to create a straight grout line. Allow for a 24-hour dry time.

Step 5 – Grout the Surface

After proper drying time, remove the spacers. Mix the grout in a 5-gallon container to the consistency of peanut butter. Using a grout float spread the grout forcing it into the grout lines from varying angles. The grout also needs a during time of 24 hours.

Step 6 – Seal the Floor

Allow the grout 24 hours to set before walking on it. Then wait a total of 72 hours before applying a high quality penetrating sealer to complete the project.

 Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Renovate Marble Floors by Berkshire Flooring Expert

I had a call out late last year to a property in the market town of Wokingham to survey a dull Marble floor which was installed throughout most of the ground floor. It turns out that the house was only built two years prior and had been the show home for a new development. The owner explained to me that to show off the potential of the new homes the developer had installed quality materials throughout, particularly the marble flooring, however the property had seen more than its fair share of foot traffic because of it.

   

Two years of wear later and the owner was concerned with how dull the Marble floor was and the appearance of small circular stains which had appeared throughout. I explained that Marble which is made from calcium is easily etched by the use of acidic cleaning products and that most tile cleaners you purchase in supermarkets are really only for use on Ceramic or Vinyl floor tiles. I suspect any sealer used on the floor to protect the stone had also been worn away for the same reason resulting in the now dull appearance.

 

After explaining the process, I would use for burnishing the Marble to deep clean and restore the shine I measured up and worked out a quotation. I received a message later that evening comforting they would like to go ahead, and a date was booked in.

 

Cleaning and Polishing a Marble Tiled Floor

I should mention that this job was carried out in compliance with the Covid-19 restrictions to ensure it was a safe working environment for both myself and the customer. This includes the wearing of full PPE equipment, increasing air circulation, and ensuring we kept our distance.

My first task was to protect the skirting and the fitted kitchen units from splashing by applying protective sheeting. Once this was done, I turned my attention to the grout which had become dark in places in accumulated dirt. To do this I used a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which is a strong alkaline cleaner specifically designed to break down soils, grease and oils on Tile and Stone. The cleaner was sprayed onto the grout lines and left to soak in for a few minutes before being scrubbed in by hand. Some of the grout needed more attention than others and once done the soil was rinsed off the floor with water and extracted using a wet vacuum.

Now the grout was cleaned I moved onto polishing the Marble floor tiles. I did this using the Tile Doctor four stage diamond burnishing system. This consists of applying a sequence of four refinishing pads fitted to a weighed buffing machine. You start with a coarse 400-grit pad and working through to a fine 1500-grit pad, each time removing the stone slurry with a wet vacuum. This process removed the acidic etching and repolished the surface of the Marble to a nice shine. I worked in sections room by room and then left the floors to fully dry off overnight.

 

Sealing Marble Tiled Flooring

I returned the next day and using a damp meter took a few readings from the floor to check the moisture levels to ensure it was dry and ready to be sealed. Before sealing though I went over the floor with a very fine 3000-grit pad which is applied dry with a little water sprayed onto to the floor, this final pad further builds up the polish and achieve the appearance desired by the customer.\

Last step was to seal the floor with Tile Doctor Colour Grow, a colour enhancing seal designed to bring out the natural colours in the stone whilst adding protection from liquid and oil spills. Impregnating sealers like Colour Grow work by occupying the tiny pores in the stone thus preventing contaminates from becoming ingrained in them.

 

The customer could not believe with how well the floor had come up and were pleased they finally had the floor they had been promised prior to moving in. For aftercare I left them with a complimentary bottle of Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner which is designed for the regular cleaning of tiled floors.

Source: Marble Floor Tile Cleaning and Polishing Service in Berkshire

Different Types Of Marble Tile

Marble tile comes in a wide range of colors, making it an ideal choice for accentuating any type of décor. In addition to the various hues available, the differences in vein patterns and grain distinguish each type of marble from one another. No matter which type you decide to install, marble tile adds a timeless visual impact. Here are some popular marble options:

Carrara Marble Tile

This is generally white, gray or blue-glue and commonly used in sculpture and building décor. Its veining is more linear and usually small and fine or soft and feathery, although it can be dramatic. Carrara is one of the most commonly used marbles in homes. Since it can have a stark, pristine whiteness, use Carrara marble tile in the bathroom to add an airy and clean feel.

Statuary Marble Tile

A sister stone to Carrara, Statuary marble features a uniform background and light gray tones with distinctive and more dramatic veining. Its semi translucent white background gives it a shiny, glossy feel, reflects light and provides a radiant finish that enhances any room.

Calacatta Marble Tile

Often misspelled as Calcutta, Calcata, and Calacata, this marble tile is also commonly mistaken for Carrara marble. Even though Calacatta marble is often quarried in the Carrara region of Italy and shares similarities with Carrara marble, such as their white coloring with gray veining, the two marbles have several distinct characteristics that set them apart. Calacatta marble tiles are generally white with dark veining in large, thick patterns. For some homes, Calacatta tiles can add a striking look when paired with stainless steel of a kitchen or the white porcelain of a bathroom. Since it’s rarer than Carrara, many people consider Calacatta a luxury stone.

Emperador Marble Tile

Quarried from three regions of Spain, Emperador marble tile comes in different shades of brown, straying from the whites and grays associated with Calacatta and Carrara. It typically exhibits fine grains with irregular veins. Its darker color makes it an ideal choice for a high-traffic floors of a charming fireplace surround.

Crema Marfil Marble Tile

Also quarried in Spain, Crema Marfil marble tile comes in many tones. The most well-known tones have a light-beige or yellowish color with uniform backgrounds and irregular veins.

History of Marble Tile

Marble has been the material of choice for monuments, temples and buildings for thousands of years. It has long been a symbol of tradition, luxury and extraordinary taste. Throughout Europe, the Mediterranean, and the Far East, historic marble buildings remain. The Ancient Greeks used fine white marble to erect some of the most iconic buildings in the world. And after the Greeks, Romans started using marble slabs to clad brick and mortar buildings. It was this innovation that allowed them to erect entire marble cities, in a short amount of time.

So, there you have it, the fascinating facts, and the different types of marble tiles it was used for. It’s pretty clear to see that it’s a material that adds value and elegance to your home!

Source: www.AvalonFlooring.com

Yorkshire Expert Explains how to Renovate Chinese Slate Kitchen Tiles

The pictures above are of a 12 metre squared Chinese slate floor in the kitchen of a property in Harrogate which had been laid ten years prior. You can see from the photographs that the grout had darkened and the slate itself had lost a lot of its character and colour.

 

Sealers typically last between three to five years so by now there was little protection left and so dirt had become trapped in the pores of the stone and grout making it difficult to keep clean. It was now overdue a deep clean and the application of a fresh seal.

I went over to survey the floor and provide a quote for stripping off what was left of the original sealer, cleaning the floor, and then resealing. I had been recommended by a previous customer so happy with my track record and the price I quoted, they asked me to do the work. They had received a quote from another firm which as it turned out was a lot more expensive than mine.

 

Cleaning a Chinese Slate Tiled Kitchen Floor

Given there was little sealer left to remove I decided to start by scrubbing the floor with a strong concentration of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which was left to soak into the slate for ten minutes. Then I worked the solution in with a rotary machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad. Pro-Clean is a very versatile product that will strip the sealer off a floor when used in a strong dilution with water, it will also remove deep seated dirt too.

 

Due to the riven nature of the tiles however I found the black pad was struggling to reach into the crevices of the tile so to achieve the desired result I resorted to scrubbing the floor on my hands and knees with a scrubbing brush. Its important that the floor is as clean as it possibly can be before sealing otherwise you simply lock the dirt in and it will never look clean.

Sealing a Chinese Slate Tiled Kitchen Floor

The floor was left to dry off overnight and I returned the next day to apply the new sealer. First, I checked to ensure that the floor was fully dry using a damp meter. The sealer would not cure properly if the floor damp and this can detract from the finished appearance.

I was happy with the readings, so I started to apply the first coat of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which I felt was the best product sealing Slate. The stone needed four coats; each one being left to dry before applying the next. Seal and Go is a stain resistant sealer which results in a low sheen silky appearance, it is good on surfaces such as the Chinese Slate which tend to be more porous and being water based it does not leave a smell as it dries.

 

The client was very happy with the result and mentioned to me that it had never looked that good even when new.

For aftercare cleaning I recommended the use of Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner which will keep the floor in the best condition. This is a pH neutral cleaner which can be used daily and won’t compromise the newly laid sealer like many of the stronger products you find in supermarkets.

Source: Chinese Slate Floor Cleaning and Renovation Service in Yorkshire

How to Fix Warped Wood Floors

Warped wood floors in your home may feel like an almost unfixable issue, but luckily, there are ways to straighten out these areas so that they look as good as new.

What Causes Warped Wooden Floors?

Typically, moisture is the culprit that causes wooden floors to warp. That can come in the form of water or humidity, and can get especially bad during the transition in seasons, when temperature changes bring about the moisture in the air.

This unwanted moisture causes wood to swell, then contract as it dries, causing an unsightly bump or bubble in your flooring. Conversely, excessively dry conditions or too much direct sunlight can also be the cause behind floor gaps by causing wood to shrink.

Deciphering the Size of Your Warp Issue

Every floor warping problem is different, so it’s important to decipher the scope of the problem in determining how to fix it.

Small warps are typically characterized by small bumps in the wood. In these cases, the wood will be pretty pliable. Larger warps will take up more room along a wood board. Giant warps are more of a large-scale issue - and are thus harder to treat. These will be large in size and are most times attributed to aged wood, significant water damage, or a lack of attention and care to the space.

Sanding Down a Warped Floor

The first method to fix a warped floor is to sand it. This works best for warps that come from humidity or a water spill rather than from a leak that originated below your flooring. Sand down the bump in your flooring until it is level with the rest of the floor. Keep in mind that this will require an aggressive amount of sanding in most instances. That means that about a quarter of thickness could be given up in this process, which is something to consider.

Fixing a Small Warp

You can fix a small warp issue quite easily. As long as the wood is still pliable, it can be fixed by moistening the area slightly, then placing a heavy object like a barbell or a cinderblock on top. Leave the weight for several days and let gravity do its job. After those few days have passed, remove it and see if the warped area is fixed. If the warp is still present, treat the issue like a large warp, as detailed below.

Fixing a Large Warp

If you have a warp that is larger than what a cinderblock can cover, you’ll want to replace the flooring area that is affected. Remove the warped plank. Once you do that, it’ll be easier to determine the root of the problem, if you haven’t already. For instance, an underlying leak could be the culprit causing your wood to move.

After you’ve done some investigating, replace the plank with one of the same kind to match the rest of your flooring. Nail and secure the plank using the same installation technique that was used for the rest of your floor so that the look remains seamless.

If you’re having trouble sourcing flooring that matches yours or you don’t want to shell out the cash to do so, a useful trick is to “steal” planks from an unseen area within your home. For instance, take planks from a space like a closet or under your refrigerator. These will serve as a perfect match to replace the warped planks. Then, you can use whatever you want to replace the stolen planks, such as something more cost effective or something that’s not a perfect match.

Other Tips and Tricks

Finish Your Floors - To prevent wood from warping in the first place, your wood floors should be properly finished to protect against moisture. This means that the subfloor has a vapor barrier, locking out moisture and preventing swelling, contracting, and gaps regardless of the moisture levels or dryness surrounding them.

Limit Humidity - Careful humidity control can help minimize wooden floor warping. Run fans in rooms with wood floors and avoid exposing them to excess air conditioning. To create the best circumstances for your floors, run dehumidifiers to pull moisture from the air.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Remove Screed and Bitumen from Stone Floors

The owner of this Flagstone floor at a property in Carnforth was told by a damp specialist to remove the carpet and underlay and have the floor taken out and skipped. Then to install new hardcore and concrete put in place but with a Damp Proof Membrane installed in between, then once fully cured (four weeks at least) they could have a new carpet, tile or wood floor etc. installed. All good advice, however, the owner of the house wanted to keep as many original features as possible and wasn’t keen on the proposal.

Looking for an alternative solution they reached out to Tile Doctor and so I went over to take a look. After surveying the floor, I came up with a completely different solution which involved milling the stone with coarse abrasive pads to remove the screed and bitumen and then resurface with diamond encrusted burnishing pads of medium and fine grits which would result in a smooth finish. Not only would this be much easier to clean going forward it would also be much more attractive, especially once sealed.

 

Happy with our alternative we arranged a date to come and do the work which would take three days, two days to prepare the floor and a third to apply a sealer.

Cleaning a Flagstone Tiled Ground Floor

Milling a floor is arduous work and requires the use of a heavy rotary machine that can apply weight onto the stone so the milling pads can really get a bite into the surface. Because of this I roped in a colleague to help take some of the strain. Some of the areas of bitumen and screed were so prominent we used an SDS hammer action drill with a flat bit to chisel them off first, this can leave a few marks in the stone which we then level out with the milling pads starting with a 50 grit and go all the way up to a 400 grit.

We used a lot of water during this process to help lubricate the abrasive action of the milling pads, this also helps to rinse off the soil that is created, all of which is extracted with a wet vacuum.

Next step is to give the floor an acid rinse with Tile Doctor Grout Clean-Up which is designed to neutralise any alkaline salts in the stone that could result in efflorescence later.

With the floor cleaned up the last step was to re-point between the Flagstones using a breathable pointing product called GFtK 800.

 

Sealing a Flagstone Tiled Ground Floor

Sealing was the next step however the floor was still quite damp after the initial renovation, so it was left for a few days to dry out first.

We selected a fully breathable sealer for this floor, this is an important requirement for a floor with no damp proof membrane as it will allow moisture to rise through the flagstone and evaporate at the surface. The concrete screed and bitumen covering will have prevented this previously which is dangerous as a build up of moisture in the stone can lead to it crumbling and you risk moisture reaching out to the walls where it can lead to rising damp. 

Tile Doctor has three breathable sealers to choose from and in this case the customer decided to go with Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is an impregnating sealer that protects from within and enhances the natural colours in the stone.

  The floor was completely transformed by the end of the third day, you would not have known it was the same floor. It was now clear of all the previous coverings and now looked like a characterful old Flagstone floor should.

Before leaving I recommended, they use Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner for everyday cleaning, being pH neutral it won’t prematurely erode the sealer allowing it to work for longer. I also advised that it’s possible that parts of the stone may go a shade darker in winter and a shade lighter in summer due to the moisture rising through the floor.

Source: Stone Floor Restoration Service in Lancashire