Applying Mud And Setting Tile Flooring

Applying a mud base and installing tile flooring is a labor intensive, messy job that can be tough on your knees and back. It takes good deal of patience and a sharp eye if you want to end up with professional results. However, there’s no need to panic about the cost of hiring a contractor. With a few rental tools and the right knowledge, you can tackle this project yourself.

What you’ll need

• Latex Gloves
• Knee Pads
• Tile Spacers
• Wet Saw (available at your local tool rental supplier)
• ¼ " notched trowel
• Thinset mortar
• Mixing bit for power drill

Step 1 – Prepping the Floor

In order to properly lay the mud base you need to make sure you have a clean sub-floor whether it’s wood or concrete. You can use a heavy duty vacuum to remove all of the dirt and debris from the floor. Dirt and dust in the mud base will cause an improper bond between the mud and tile.

Step 2 – Laying the Mud Base

This is probably the most important part of installing tile flooring since a properly installed mud base will ensure a long lasting floor. To mix the mud base you’ll need a 5 gallon bucket and a water supply along with your drill and mixing bit. You’ll need to mix the water and mortar until you get a consistency of thick mud. Before you begin laying the base, it’s important to layout the tile to ensure a symmetrical pattern with even cuts on both sides of the room. You can do this by finding the center point of the room and laying out your tile from there. It helps to lay the tile out before you apply the mud base so you can visually check the layout. Now you can begin spreading the mud base with the ¼ inch trowel. Start in one corner and work your way from the back of the room to the front. Make sure that you only lay a small section of mud at a time since it dries out very quickly.

Step 3 – Installing Tile Flooring

As you’re installing the mud base you can also begin the install of the tile flooring. Begin in the area that you just installed the mud base in and firmly press the tile into the mud. Pay particularly close attention to the corners of the tile. You’ll want to make sure the corners are secured in the mud base to prevent the tiles from popping loose in the future. Use the tile spacers to ensure that the grout lines between the tiles are even. After you’ve installed a few tiles, place a straight edge across the top to ensure the floor tiles are level and even. Repeat the process as you work your way to the front of the room.

Step 4 – Making the Cuts

Once you get started installing the tile flooring, you’ll eventually need to cut the tile to complete the installation. To make sure you keep the grout lines consistent you’ll need to take into account the width of the grout line. For example, for cuts along the wall you’ll need to take the measurement from the wall to the edge of the tile. If the dimension is 9 inches, then subtract the width of the grout line you’ve chosen. Common gout line sizes are 1/8 inch or ¼ inch. If you’ve selected a 1/8 inch grout line, then the tile should be cut at 8 7/8 inches to allow for a tight fit while still maintaining the grout line. You can use the wet saw to ensure straight and even cuts.

Installing tile flooring can be hard work but with a little confidence and the right tools, you can lay a tile floor like a seasoned veteran.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Remove Epoxy Grout from Porcelain Tiles

Detailed below is a great example of why Tile Doctor uses the slogan:

"We Love the Jobs Tilers Hate"
First of all, apologies for the photographs, at this time of year it is tricky to get good pictures when the natural light is poor. If you look closely however you should recognise what is essentially a new installation of Cream Porcelain floor tiles. The work was done at a house in Banbury which is a market town in Oxfordshire. Banbury is a significant commercial and retail centre for the surrounding area of north Oxfordshire and southern rural parts of Warwickshire and Northamptonshire.


The tiler who laid the floor had used an epoxy grout and unfortunately had not polished off the grout quickly enough after grouting and it was now ruining the appearance of the floor. He now found it impossible to remove the excess residue and was unable to offer a solution leaving the problem to the customer to sort out. Fortunately, the client found Tile Doctor and having visited the property to survey the floor and assess the correct procedure required to renovate the tiles. Epoxy grout is a superior product to cement based grout and very resistant to staining however it is trickier to work with and often causes problems. We have come across this problem before however so I knew how to treat it and assured the client it could be resolved.

Removing Epoxy Grout from Porcelain Tiles

The first process was to apply a specialist epoxy grout remover then mix in Tile Doctor Acid Gel, I then scrubbed the resulting solution with a black pad fitted to a rotary machine running at a very slow speed to reduce splashing. The Tile Doctor Acid Gel has a unique pH1 blend of Phosphoric and Hydrochloric acids in a gel form and is perfect for treating grout haze.

The floor was then rinsed with water to remove the soil which was then extracted with a wet vacuum. It was a slow process and I worked in sections until the whole floor was clear. There was still some residue in the grout, so I washed the floor with a medium dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean and scrubbed it into the floor using a medium brush fitted on my rotary machine.

Last step was to give the whole floor a thorough rinse with water, again using the wet vacuum to remove the water and get the floor as dry as possible. The process took about six hours and when I was finished the Porcelain tiles looked much better. There was no need to add any sealant to this floor as this particular make of Porcelain are not porous and won’t accept it.


The client was very relieved to see the floor looking as good as new, it was how the floor should have looked following installation.


Source: Porcelain Tile Cleaning and Restoration Service in Banbury, Oxfordshire

5 Benefits of a Chipboard Sub-Floor

Chipboard or particle board is an engineered wood composed of pressed fibers like paper, course sawdust and resin. It has many uses from notepad backings, business form holders, scrapbook embellishments and as sub-flooring material. Sub-flooring is essential because this it is where the decorative loft flooring such as carpets are laid. Read on to learn about the advantages and disadvantages of chipboard as a sub-floor material.

3 Types of Particle Board

The 3 main types of particle board consist of Medium Density Fibreboard (MDF), Oriented Strand Board (OSB) and the basic particle board. MDF is a material used for furniture making, speaker boxes and artificial panels and is characterized as heavy, even brown color and novisible fibers. Meanwhile, OSB is composed of larger wood strips while the basic particle board has smaller visible fibers. Basic particle board is usually installed as sub-floor material.

5 Benefits of Chipboard Explained

1. Practical – Chipboard is easy to use, simple and fast to install, and ideal to use to any flooring including tiles, slate, carpet and vinyl.
2. Economical This type of material is reasonably priced and provides another alternative to solid wood. As compared to a corrugated cardboard, chipboard are lesser priced for shipping and packing. Also, this type of sub-floor material functions as treatment for termites and fungus which is perfect for homes located in humid areas.
3. Durable – It is made of sturdy material that can endure pressure and even protects shipping items. When used as a furniture material, the furniture product is secure and seamless.
4. Looks Like Wood – Chipboard is aesthetically designed with its different finishes, wood-like features, superior class and without any kind of flaws on it.
5. Environmentally Friendly – It is made from recycled materials such as wood chips, wood particles, sawmill or sawdust shavings and it comprises 70 percent of it. If the people choose to use chipboard instead of solid wood or corrugated there will also be lesser damage done to the forests.

Disadvantage

If you plan to purchase chipboard, make sure to check that it is properly sealed and away from wet areas.  This type of sub-floor is vulnerable to damage and deformation when exposed to wet areas or to water. Once it is wet the particle board loses its strength and can be easily damaged. The reason behind this is that is has no natural shape because it is made of collective recycled wood pieces and do not hold well. It tends to split on joints and screws that come off also damages the board. Adhesives can also ruin the board.

Tips to Prevent Damage

When installing chipboard, place plywood over it before installing the decorative flooring (e.g. carpet) this will serve as an underlayment and will add thickness to the flooring.  It will effectively protect the sub-floor for a longer-lasting and water resistant home material for your home or building. Remember never to use glue or adhesives when installing chipboard, use staples instead and you will have a guaranteed sturdier sub-floor.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Tile Installer Trade Secrets You Can Use

Tile installers have a number of great insider secrets. They are consummate professionals, so they’ve developed systems and even shortcuts that work well. Often, they’ll try to keep their tricks to themselves but nothing can truly stay secret for long. Knowing some of those secrets can make your tiling job a lot easier. You might imagine that most tillers will have superb secrets regarding the laying of the tile itself. In fact, their greatest secret is in the preparation they do before a single tile is laid.

Secret 1: Preparation
The biggest key to making a job go smoothly is good preparation. In the case of large jobs this can mean days of preparation. Check the rooms to see how square the walls are, how even and smooth the edges appear and how level the surface is that you’ll be covering with your tiles.

Once you’ve established this, begin work your preparation methods out. If necessary, build up floors a little, using mortar rather than self-leveling compound. Where walls are being tiled, especially if they have concave bows, use thinset to level them out. With convex bows, remove the board and use a plane on the wall studs before replacing.

This can take longer than the actual tiling but it’s definitely worthwhile. Not only will the tiling process go smoothly, but you’ll have a much outcome. Starting with a level floor spares you having to deal with a problem called lippage, which effectively means the tiles aren’t quite even.

Secret 2: Layout
You’ll save a lot of time later if you establish lines parallel and square to the longest wall in the room. Next, lay out a run of tiles about 6 feet long, including spacers. This will let you know if you’ll end up with slivers around the room edges. If that’s the case, you can make adjustments so it doesn’t happen.

Lay out tiles from the center of the room, going in all directions to ensure the perimeters will all be the same. When you’ve done that, re-check everything thoroughly to avoid mistakes later.

Secret 3: Installation
To avoid boxing yourself into a corner and having to wait while the mortar dries, move from the field which is classed as the center of the room and work outwards to the perimeter of the room. Set the tile in the thinset then take the time to level it in all directions. This ensures you’ll have a perfectly level floor.

If you’re tiling more than the floor, complete the other surfaces such as countertops and walls first. This means that you’ll never be stuck for a surface to work on.

Some tiles, such as ceramic, porcelain and terra cotta, will require grout. However, you should still take the time to make sure they’re flat and even rather than relying the grout to make things look good. It’s a matter of pride and craftsmanship.

Secret 4: Grouting
When you’ve grouted the tiles, use clean water and thick sponges to clean up and do so thoroughly. When you caulk areas with splashbacks or where two different surfaces join, use latex caulk that’s matched in color to the grout. To get a good bead, work the caulk into the join carefully and firmly.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com`

Removing Carpet Adhesive from Victorian Hallway Tiles in Glasgow's West End

I thought you might be interested in these pictures of a tile restoration that we carried out in the hallway of a victorian property in the West End of Glasgow. Glasgow is actually the most populated city in Scotland and the third biggest by population in the whole of the UK so naturally a busy location for us.

The floor had been previously covered in carpet and as a result was stained with adhesive and paint splashes. We popped in to do a site visit, so we could survey the floor and see for ourselves the condition of the floor. Although not in great shape, I was happy that the overall floor was in good physical condition and could be restored with the help the products and methods.


I discussed with the client the process involved and the costs to put it right. They were happy to accept my quote and we booked the job in for later in the month. The job would take two days to complete, one day to clean and a further day to seal the floor.

Cleaning a Victorian Tiled Hallway Floor

The first job was to clear the floor of the wooden carpet gripper by carefully chipping it off the floor. This took a bit of time and we had to be careful not to damage the floor further.

Next, we started on deep cleaning the floor by applying Tile Doctor Oxy-Gel. This is a strong alkaline based cleaner and degreaser in gel form, its great for when a long dwell time is required to break down dirt, grime, acrylic sealers, stains and oil-based products and waxes.

We left the Oxy-Gel to dwell for twenty to thirty minutes to ensure it got to work on breaking down the layers. It was then worked into the tile using a black scrubbing pad fitted to a rotary machine with the slurry rinsed off the floor and extracted with a wet vacuum. This process was carried out a few times to get the floor as clean as possible could before we gave a final scrub and rinse with Tile Doctor Acid Gel to combat any efflorescence issues that can occur on these old floors that do not have a damp proof membrane.

Sealing a Victorian Tiled Hallway Floor

I returned the following day to seal the floor checking first that it had dried using a damp meter. Once I was satisfied, four coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go Extra were applied to the tiles to give the sheen finish asked for by the client. This process takes longer that you might think as you have to wait for the first coat to dry before applying the next and naturally this can vary depending on the conditions. 

I chose Seal and Go Extra as these Victorian properties were built before the invention of damp-proof membranes so you need to use a fully breathable sealer that will allow dampness to rise through the tile and evaporate. Use of a non-breathable sealer can lead to damp becoming trapped under the floor which can spread into the walls leading to rising damp. The sealer will protect the tiles and make it much easier to clean going forward, additionally it enhances the appearance of the tile leaving a sheen finish which allows the vivid colours to shine through.


The client was very happy with the floor and quite amazed with the before and after shots, they had not expected the results to be as good. They would now be able to easily keep the floor clean and looking good for any visitors.



Source: Victorian Floor Cleaning and Sealing Service in Glasgow

4 Cobblestone Flooring Installation Tips

If you want to improve the interior of your home with a stone floor, then why not select cobblestone flooring? This type of flooring gives a European feel to your kitchen or dining room, and can help to make the gap between the inside and outside of your home seem less wide. Cobblestone flooring is also more environmentally friendly than other types of flooring, as you can get reclaimed stone, or find some local stone which can be adapted to your floor. You could also use cobblestones designed for outside in order to ensure that your home improvement doesn’t cost too much. However you choose to find your cobblestones, using a few simple installation tips will help you to get the best from your installation.

1 – Purchase Good Stone

The first step when purchasing cobblestone flooring is to find the right kind of stone for your needs. Cobblestones are usually light-to-medium brown in color, slightly curved, and small enough not to stick out too far. Think of a chestnut-colored stone, round, about the size of a man’s fist. This should be a suitable type of cobblestone for your needs. Measure the room you want to lay the cobblestones in to get the right quantity, plus a small amount extra in case of mistakes. You should also ensure that the stone you purchase comes from a suitable location, and is not cracked or damaged in any way.

2 – Lay the Stones Out

Once your stones have arrived, lay them out on the floor where they will be installed. If you are removing any furniture or old flooring, do this before laying out the stones. Arrange your cobblestone flooring to a pattern that you like, and then take a concrete mix, and pour it around the cobblestones. Don’t allow the concrete to cover the stones, instead they should just poke out above the concrete. You need to have enough concrete to keep the stones firm, and create a suitable walking area, but not so much that it ruins the effect.

3 – Clean the Stones
Once the concrete has dried, go along the stones and remove any splashes of concrete, and any debris which has gathered on the surface of the stones. Give them a good sweep to get rid of dust, and then ensure that all of the holes are filled with caulk or mastic. Remove and replace any stones which have become cracked or damaged. Leave any of these changes to dry and then sweep the floor again.

4 – Add a Sealant

Once your cobblestone floor is set, you should add a sealant over the surface. This will help you to keep your cobblestones clean. Stone floor sealants can be purchased at any local home improvements store. Leave this sealant to dry, and then add a second coat. You should reapply this second coat regularly, using a wax or similar product which can just be placed on the floor and then polished to a shine.




Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Resurfacing a Flagstone Kitchen Floor in Broadbottom, Greater Manchester

The new owners of this lovely terraced house in the village of Broadbottom that was built circa 1900, inherited with it a lovely old flagstone floor in the Kitchen which was now in a rather bad state with ingrained dirt and stains.


I suspected that the White staining was due to alkaline salts, a problem more commonly known as efflorescence. However, I took a moisture reading of the floor with a damp meter and the readings were normal, so it may have been a historic damp problem that cause it. We are always wary of efflorescence issues when it comes to older properties as damp proof membranes which resolve this problem are a relatively modern invention.


After explaining the process, I worked out a quote which was accepted and booked a date in the diary for the work to commence, which would take place over two days.

Cleaning and Grouting a Flagstone Kitchen Floor

First the floor was in a terrible state and needed to be resurfaced if it was going to live up to its potential. To do this I used a 100 followed by a 200-grit coarse Diamond milling pads to grind off the top layer of ground in dirt, resurface the stone and reveal the beautiful stone beneath. These abrasive pads are run over the floor with a weighted floor buffer running on a nice slow speed and lubricated with water. The floor is rinsed with more water after each pad and then the soil extracted using a wet vacuum.

As the floor had quite a few areas where the grout had cracked and crumbled, I decided to rake this out and replaced it with a flexible grout using a colour sympathetic to the original. This and the milling made an immediate improvement to the overall appearance of the floor. The floor was then left to dry off overnight and I came back the next day to apply a sealer.

Sealing a Flagstone Tiled Kitchen Floor

The next day I checked the floors moisture level before sealing, all was well, so I applied a couple of coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow. This is an impregnating sealer that has a matt finish. Tile Doctor Colour Grow is also fully breathable so should cope well with any damp issues and allow moisture to rise through the stone and evaporate. This is important as otherwise moisture could become trapped under the floor where it could eventually cause problems in the walls.


The customers were delighted with the outcome, the colour of the stone had really improved also Milling the surface of the floor makes it smoother so it would now be much easier for them to keep clean in future.


For aftercare I left them with a bottle of concentrated Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner which once diluted is a pH neutral product that will not erode the newly applied sealer. Many household cleaners are too strong for sealed floor and will prematurely erode the sealer over time.


Source: Flagstone Floor Cleaning and Sealing Service in Broadbottom, Greater Manchester