Small Marble Bathroom Floor Cleaned and Polished in Birmingham

Our customer had a polished Marble tiled bathroom floor which had been installed some years ago. Over the years the tiles had become water stained and marked and although the customer had tried various household products to remove them they had not had much success. The floor was now really annoying them and so they decided to contact Tile Doctor to see if the problem could be resolved.

Marble is often the preferred choice for bathrooms giving them what can only be described and an opulent feel. It is highly durable, tough and usually of premium quality. However, like any natural stone it is in fact porous and needs to be sealed to prevent dirt becoming trapped in its pores as once that happens it can be very difficult to keep clean.

I visited the property in Brownhills, a historic mining town to the north east of Walsall to see if I could help, I surveyed the bathroom and could see the staining that they had mentioned was quite pronounced. I advised the customer of the options that Tile Doctor could offer, and we agreed a price for the work.

Cleaning and Polishing Marble Bathroom Floor

To clean and polish stone tiles such as Marble we use a process we call burnishing. This involves the application of different grits of Diamond encrusted pads in sequence from coarse to very fine. No chemicals are used in this process, just water and in this case a setup of small six-inch burnishing pads which fit to a hand buffer. I started with the application of a coarse 400-grit pad lubricated with water which successfully removed the marks from the Marble. This pad does dull the appearance of the stone so that has to be gradually restored by working up through the finer set of pads rinsing the floor in between each pad with water. The last pad to be applied is a very fine 3000-grit pad which is applied with a little water sprayed onto the tile and results in a lovely polished finish.

High Shine Sealing Marble Bathroom Floor

The customer was happy with the results, however they had previously mentioned that they liked a very deep shine, so I recommended we build the polish further with the application of Tile Doctor High Shine Powder.


Tile Doctor High Shine is a crystallising powder that provides a very high shine and tough durable finish. It can be used for all-natural stone, such as marble, limestone and granite so was an ideal choice in the instance. The customer agreed so the crystals were buffed into the Marble to give an even deeper shine finish that not only looks great but adds a durable barrier to the floor that will protect it from staining in the future.


The floor was restored in the same day to its’ original look and the customer was over the moon with the finish.

Our very happy customer left the following feedback; "Kieron arrived at our pre arranged time and inspected the condition of my bathroom tiles he was very professional and suggested he would carry out some small tests to determine the best solution for my tile problem. The test results he achieved were excellent so we agreed on an option and price for the work. Kieron worked very hard all morning to finish the work and the end result was outstanding"


Source: Marble Tile Cleaning and Polishing Service in Birmingham

3 Things to do about Floor Joists that Cause Uneven Flooring

Floor joists play an important role in a building's foundation. But, due to a variety of reasons they may cause the floor to be uneven at certain places. Let us discuss what actions can be undertaken in order to avoid this, or when required solve such a problem.

Moisture

It is important to bear in mind that wood will in time deteriorate due to wear and tear and moisture. So, it is important to primarily make sure that no water leaks or penetrates into the joists. Furthermore there should be an appropriate moisture barrier set in place.

Expansions and Contractions

Due to changes in temperature the wood will expand and contract. This will cause problems such as separation, crowning, cupping or buckling. These problems are common, and can be seen by edges being forced up or down. In turn, the floor will end up uneven in some places. In order to solve these problems the best thing to do is make sure that the temperature is rather level. A good way is to have a humidifier, and to regularly check any defects so as to take the necessary action. You should check for any sources of moisture or excessive dryness.

Maintenance

In order to keep the wood floor in its best condition and avoid unevenness problems, you should sand the floor to provide a smoother finish, especially in areas where there are splinters, lower areas or flaking finishes. Once you have finished sanding the floor, apply wood putty where required. When dry, apply a finish such as stain. Regularly check for similar defects so as to apply the necessary maintenance.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Badly Sealed Copper Slate Floor Restored in Lancashire

This customer in the coastal village of Heysham had recently had these beautiful Copper Slate Tiles laid by a builder who had been working on the house. As part of the work he also sealed them with a solvent aerosol sealer. Floor tiles experience a lot of wear from foot traffic and as a result the sealer only lasted about two weeks before it had worn off and dirt had started to penetrate the pores of the stone. The photos below were taken two months after they were sealed.


Aerosol sealers are only good for wall Tiles where they experience minimum contact, we usually only recommend their use for shower cubicle or wet rooms and they need constant topping up every 6 months or so. In our experience floor surfaces receive a lot of abrasion from the traffic of shoes and so on which will diminish an aerosol applied sealer very quickly.

Cleaning Rough Copper Slate Tiles

It makes sense to clean tiled floors before applying a sealer otherwise you simply trap the dirt under the seal which will reduce its appearance. So before re-sealing the floor with something more effective it was treated to an abrasive clean using a 200-grit diamond encrusted floor burnishing pad fitted to a weighted buffer machine. The pad was run over the whole floor using water to lubricate and with the machine running at slow speed to reduce splashing.

Next step was to clean the recessed grout which pads can struggle to reach, this was done by applying a dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean along the grout lines and then scrubbing it in with a stiff grout brush by hand. Once done the residue from the tile and grout cleaning was rinsed off the floor with water and then extracted with a wet vacuum.

Sealing Rough Copper Slate Tiles

The floor was left to dry off completely overnight and I returned the next day to re-seal, this time with a more suitable product. My sealer of choice for Slate is Tile Doctor Seal and Go which will not only protect the stone from dirt and staining but also adds a very pleasing sheen finish. The new sealer really brought out the black and copper colours in the stone and now looks amazing.


For long-term care I always recommend customers avoid the use of steam cleaners and acidic or strong alkaline cleaning products which can prematurely reduce the life of the sealer resulting in dirt becoming trapped in the pores of the stone again. Naturally Tile Doctor have designed a product for this which is called Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner, supplied in concentrated form when diluted with water it becomes pH neutral and safe to use on sealed surfaces. I always leave my customers with a complimentary bottle after cleaning their floor, so they are reminded what to use.



Source: Slate Tile Cleaning and Renovation Service in Lancashire

7 Tips for Painting a Floor Joist

When painting a basement floor joist it's important to do the job correctly. The correct paint needs to be selected, as well as providing yourself with the proper protection for your body and eyes. A clean clear area is far easier to work in as you will be working overhead. Moving the stepladder is easier if the floor area is open.

1: Body, Eye, and Breathing Protection

Purchase disposable plastic coveralls, masks, goggles, petroleum jelly, covers for your shoes and some gloves. Cover yourself totally before getting started by using the disposable clothing and include a mask, hair covering and goggles. The paint you will be using will be extremely difficult to get off if it gets on your skin and hair. Any area of skin not covered should be protected with petroleum jelly.

2: Clear the Decks

It is best to cover the entire area of floor and any immovable objects before starting to spray. By clearing the area as much as possible, you will make your job of spraying the floor joists a lot easier. Using a sprayer makes the task of painting easier but tends to make a fine spray throughout the area, whichever paint you decide on. The paint you will be spraying will cover everything with a fine dusting. Its better to invest in some throw away plastic sheeting than to use fabric to cover items.

3: Types of Paint to Use

The best paint for painting floor joists is a non-shiny or matte paint. You do not want the ceiling to be obtrusive. A flat finish with a water-based paint is a better option.

4: Apparatus to Use

Because you will be painting a large area over your head, it will be easier to use a spray painter. If you don’t already have one, rent one for the project. If however, you intend to do further projects, purchasing a sprayer would be a better solution. Check on the sprayer as to what consistency the paint should be mixed to and stick strictly to the directions.

5: Mask the Outlets

Make sure all wires and outlets are masked off. There could well be loose wires along the floor joists. Make sure you mask them off completely. You do not want the paint entering or adhering to these items. If possible, cover them with ducting for cables.

6: Primer

Use a primer first. Although you might be tempted just to paint, a proper primer will make the job last longer. Primer helps paint adhere to the surface better and will provide a more professional look.

7: Paint

Paint over the entire area. Make certain no part of the ceiling or the joists remains uncovered. It could well require two coats. When spraying, spray lightly and move on to the next area. You do not want globs of paint appearing. If you leave the sprayer for a while, you will have to clean the nozzles or they will clog up. Clean the whole sprayer if you intend on leaving it over night. Paint should not be left in it for long periods.

It is not a difficult job to do and the basement will look far better once the floor joists are painted.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Deep Cleaning Terracotta Kitchen Tiles in Devon

Earlier this year I was called to the Dartmoor town of Moretonhampstead in order to take a look at a large Terracotta tiled kitchen/dining room which the owners had ‘lived with’ for over a decade but were finding it harder and harder to keep clean. Upon arrival, I could see that any sealer that had been used previously was well beyond its best and the floor was holding in the dirt and grime because of how porous unsealed terracotta is.

 

I conducted a test on a small area of the floor which not only helped me to identify the most suitable product to clean the floor with but also to show the customer how much of an impact a professional clean and seal of a floor is likely to have. The first product I tried was Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which although cleaned the tiles very well I could tell was going to be a problem when it came to rinsing because the floor was absorbing it almost as quickly as I was able to put it down! My solution came in the form of Tile Doctor Oxy-Gel which is a very similar product to Pro-Clean and is a very powerful stripper/degreaser but has the added benefit of being in gel form, so it sits on the tiles rather than becomes absorbed into them. It is also a very good option for riven stone, uneven tiles or undulating floors because unlike a liquid it will not run off the high spots.

The clients were thrilled with the test area and couldn’t believe how much lighter the tiles were and as soon as I sent them my quote they booked me in at my next availability.

Deep Cleaning Terracotta Tiles

When I returned to the property my first task was to protect the woodwork from splashing by dressing the skirting boards and kitchen plinths in a blue plastic covering. I then set to work applying Oxy-Gel to the tiles and allowing it to dwell for about five minutes before scrubbing it in with a stiff bristled brush fitted to a rotary buffer.

The scrubbing action released the dirt form the Terracotta and I was then able to extract it from the floor using a wet vacuum. I worked methodically in small areas at a time and when the whole floor was done it was given a thorough rinse to remove any trace of cleaning products from the floor. I also checked the floor carefully and spot treated any stubborn staining and used the wet vacuum to get the floor as dry as possible before leaving for the day.

Sealing Terracotta Tiles

After I was satisfied that the tiles were all clean I then needed to wait for the floor to dry before I could seal. As I mentioned these tiles were very porous and so took longer than usual to dry out but once the moisture levels were at an acceptable level I returned to finish the job.

Once terracotta has been stripped it can reveal historic damage such as acid stains or from inappropriate cleaning products which look like lighter patches on the tiles. Upon my return I spent a while improving any areas like this by using diamond encrusted burnishing pads to resurface the tiles. In general, it is not recommended on terracotta because you lose the natural texture of the tiles and create a smooth finish but in this instance the customer decided that this was preferable to the stains remaining visible.

After both the customer and I were happy with the condition of the tiles I began to seal the floor with Tile Doctor Seal and Go, an acrylic based sealer which would give the tiles a slightly glazed or freshly mopped appearance. Because of the porosity of this particular batch of terracotta tile it took eleven coats before the floor was fully sealed!

The customer was very happy, and the tiles lit the room up, transforming it.




Source: Terracotta Tile Cleaning and Renovation Service in Devon

How to Install Steel Floor Joists

Commercial buildings, and larger homes, use steel floor joists in order to handle the load of the structure. These steel floor joists are especially important for the ground floor of the structure as they have the most load upon them. Many homeowners are finding that they can eliminate sagging and bouncing floor problems by replacing their wood joists with steel floor joists. Even though this might seem like a large project, it is easily done with the right instruction, the right tools, plenty of help, and taking your time.

What You'll Need:

• Steel floor joists
• Hydraulic jack
• Joist brackets
• Level
• Drill
• Bolts

Step 1 - Measure Joists for Length

Making sure you have the right size floor joists is the most important part of the installation. Steel floor joists are thick steel and are not easily cut without specialized equipment. Before ordering the steel floor joists make sure you take accurate measurements. It is highly recommended that you take several measurements along the floor area to ensure accurate lengths of the steel floor joists.

Step 2 - Purchase Correct Steel Floor Joists

There are different grades to steel floor joists that give the amount of load they can handle. When ordering the floor joists, make sure that you purchase the joists that are strong enough for your home.

Step 3 - Install Joist Brackets

In order for the steel floor joists to be installed properly, you will need to first install the joist brackets on the ledger boards. Hold the joist bracket up to the ledger boards and predrill the holes for the bolts. Drive in carriage bolts to secure the joist brackets to the ledger board. Continue to install the joist brackets beside each of the wooden joists.

Step 4: Install First Steel Floor Joist

The steel floor joists are going to be heavy. In order to install them without any injury or damage to your home you will need to have some help carrying them in your home. Also, have some hydraulic jacks ready to lift the steel floor joists into position to negate the need to hold them for a long period of time. Line up the first steel floor joist with the joist brackets. Secure the joist to the bracket with the use of nuts and bolts. Tighten the bolts with a ratchet wrench.

Step 5 - Remove Wood Joist

Once the steel floor joist is installed next to the wood joist, you can remove the old joist. Keep the hydraulic jacks under the steel joist for added support while the wood joist is removed.

Step 6 - Continue Installing Steel Floor Joists

Following the same installation method, continue to install the individual steel joists. It is important to keep a hydraulic jack under each new joist while you complete the installation process. This will allow the home to settle on the steel joists without causing a lot of stress.

Step 7 - Remove Jacks

To finish off the installation of the steel floor joists you will need to wait a few weeks. After 2 or 3 weeks have passed, remove the hydraulic jacks slowly to make sure that the house has settled upon the joists. Remove every other jack first, then go back and remove the rest.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Repair Floor Joist Termite Damage

Are your floor joists in danger from termites? If they are and the damage is very minimal, you may be able to do the repairs yourself. You can save yourself a lot of money by doing the work yourself. Making repairs like this is quite a job. There won’t be much in the way of supplies that you would need. Time will be the biggest factor here. If this is your first attempt at repairing a floor joist with termite damage, you might consider having a friend who knows how to do work like this to come lend you a hand. There are some steps to follow that will hopefully get you going in the right direction.

What You'll Need:

• A couple of 2-by-4 wooden floor joists
• A hammer
• Plenty of Nails

Step 1 - Preparation

You will need to look for the damaged area that will need to be repaired. Once you find it, remove any of the top floorboards above the damaged area to look at the subfloor. Then you must attempt the repairs from the crawl space or basement so that you can save the interior flooring. You will also need to be able to see the damaged area well enough from underneath it to be able to fix it properly.

Step 2 - Disconnect Utilities

You will now need to disconnect your utilities temporarily because you could run into some wires near the damaged area. If they are live wires, you could get electrocuted. Be sure to clear all the wires away from the area if there are any.

Step 3 - Placing the New 2-by-4

Now that you have the utilities cut off, you can set the new 2-by-4. Place it as close to the termite damaged one as possible. You need to secure it by nailing it to the crossbeam on the base of the floor. This will help to provide the structural support needed for the damaged beam. Then you can remove the damaged portion and replace it with a good sturdy wooden beam.

Extra Tip

• Removing termite infested lumber from your floor without replacing any kind of support: you might do some significant damage to the foundation and put yourself as well as others in harm’s way. If you don’t know what to do or you are unsure, seek the help of a professional.
• Now that you have learned how to replace a termite infested floor joist, you can see that it is not an easy job. One way to be sure that you can prevent this kind of a situation is to have your home termite treated. A once a year inspection can save you from having to tear up your floors to repair damage that could have been prevented. Should you ever have to tackle a job like this, Ask for help and play it safe? It might also be a good idea to get the opinion and advice from a professional. They will be able to give you the best advice possible.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com