6 Natural Stone Flooring Design Tips

Natural stone flooring can make a smashing accent. The subtle complexity of patterns formed by weather is both calming and engrossing, and they're right on trend with the recent movement toward design elements drawn from nature.

Stone flooring is also intrinsically durable, but it's important to pick the right kind for your needs and to maintain it carefully for the best long-term results. Here are some tips to get you on the right footing.

1. Subtle Styles are More Durable

The variety of stone styles available has exploded over the years. Manufacturers now provide a wide assortment of colors and finishes ranging from dull to shiny. The surface of the tile can also be smooth or rough, allowing you to select from a spectrum of more finished to more rugged.

Of course, your personal preference and existing decor will weigh heavily on your selection. If you want a boost of color, go for it! Consider, though, the value of more understated designs. Neutral tones are well-positioned to accommodate changing trends and future renovations.

2. Some are Easier to Keep Clean

Think about how hectic life in your household tends to be, too, and how much cleaning you like to do. A polished floor will reflect light and offers a snappy look, but it also shows dirt more than a rustic finish. Chips and scratches will also be more noticeable in a polished finish, possibly resulting in more repairs over the life of the flooring.

3. Stone Stays Cool

Similarly, the environment where you live can influence your decision regarding natural stone tiles. They're an ideal choice in warm climates because they stay cool and do not radiate heat.

Even in cooler climates, natural stone performs well, especially when paired with a warming option like radiant heating. It also offers water resistance, which is a great benefit for bathrooms, kitchens, pool rooms, and anywhere else where water is prevalent.

4. Cost Will Vary by Style

Natural stone flooring used to be a product found only in the homes of the elite, but an increase in international trade has made these options more accessible. Now the cost of these types of flooring is about the same, and sometimes even less, than wood flooring. Even if you don’t plan to stay in your spot for decades, natural stone flooring is an investment that typically pays you back by increasing the value of your home.

Marble can be the priciest, as its mesmerizing swirls are highly prized. Slate and granite are typically the cheapest options, with materials like travertine and limestone falling somewhere in between. As a general rule, the larger the tile size you choose, the more you should expect to pay.

5. Think Ahead to Minimize Your Cleaning

The texture you choose may have different maintenance needs, but in general, natural stone flooring is easy to care for with simple, regular upkeep and occasional deep cleaning.

Most stones will just need a sweep or soft vacuuming a few times a week, and occasional mopping to collect dust and dirt. Don't use any harsh chemicals, and avoid acidic cleaners such as vinegar—these can all result in discoloration or damage.

For a deeper clean, use a mild vegetable soap and water or a cleaner specifically made for your type of stone. Clean up spills promptly and apply cleaner directly to any stains as soon as possible.

Rugs near entryways can help minimize the dirt tracked onto the floors. You may want to start a new habit of removing your shoes at the door to make cleaning easier. Furniture cushions on the legs of couches and chairs can help you avoid scratching your stones.

6. Even Installation is Essential

Perhaps the most important tip regarding natural stone flooring is to make sure it's properly installed. Flooring that's not completely level will be much more likely to buckle, shift, and crack over time. That can result in an expensive and time-consuming repair.

Whether you install the natural stone flooring or have a professional tackle the task, watch for slopes and uneven sections that could affect the end result.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Can I Apply a Polyurethane Finish to My Laminate Floors?

Laminate floors are often used as an affordable wood alternative because they have the same look and feel as hardwood. Laminate flooring is usually created with a very thin layer of real wood placed between layers of resin. Many homeowners find laminate floors more durable and easier to care for than actual hardwood floors.

The look of the two materials is where the similarities end, however. When it comes to finishing laminate flooring, you don't want to treat it the same way you would hardwood.

Putting Polyurethane on Laminate

Applying a coat of polyurethane is a common way to finish hardwood floors—it keeps moisture out of the cracks and grain of the wood, which prevents swelling and preserves the natural look of the hardwood. Polyurethane sticks well to real wood and creates an invisible layer of protection to the floors to protect them against scratching, staining, and wear. However, polyurethane doesn't have a similar effect on laminate flooring.

While you can add a layer of polyurethane to laminate flooring, it's really not the best material to use. Polyurethane doesn't stick well to laminate floors, which are already covered in resin because of the way laminate is made. You can't sand down laminate in order to get the polyurethane to stick, so there's no way to improve the cohesion between the two. Polyurethane simply isn't a good option for laminate floors, but you can seal them in other ways to keep them looking great for as long as possible.

Sealing Laminate Floors

To prevent moisture from seeping in between the cracks of laminate floors, you can always use a crack sealer. Look for sealers that are specifically designed to work on laminate so you can ensure that you get a strong bond between the laminate and the sealer you use. You'll apply this directly to the cracks between laminate floorboards or tiles. Wipe away the excess to give your project a neat, finished look. You want to allow the sealant to settle and dry for 24 hours before you use your floors.

You can also get a special laminate coating to apply directly to your laminate floors. These coatings are designed just for laminate to preserve the look and help prevent scratches and stains.

Touching Up Your Floors

If your laminate floors do become dull or damaged, you can always try to repair these issues with a touch-up kit. Get a special laminate touch-up kit and follow the directions to apply laminate restorer directly to the problem area.

Preserving Laminate

By its nature, laminate flooring stands up to ordinary wear and tear. It's low-maintenance, easy to clean, and withstands heavy foot traffic and daily use. Because of the way it's made, laminate flooring doesn't need any additional treatment after it's been put in place. So you don't actually have to seal your laminate floors or give them any additional treatment. Even without any extra care, laminate floors will stay beautiful and withstand daily use far better than most hardwood floors.

Adding sealers and special coatings to laminate floors can actually make them highly slippery, which is a hazard. Most laminate flooring isn't designed to be sealed and doesn't need to be sealed. The resin coating that's already used on laminate provides plenty of protection against scratches, stains, and wear.

If you see that your laminate floors are looking dull and want to give them extra shine, try a specialized laminate floor cleaning product. These products are designed to restore the sine to laminate and fix dull areas to make your floors look like new again.

You can add polyurethane to your laminate floors, but there’s no reason that you'd want to! It won’t work all that well, and there are much better ways to get the pretty, gleaming look you want for your laminate floors, whether they’ve been damaged or simply dulled over time.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

South East London Tiler Demonstrates how to Restore a Damaged Victorian Steps

This client in Chislehurst wanted to create a better first impression as their front Victorian tiled step looked tired and had been damaged by long term settlement in the sub floor. They ideally wanted to keep the original tiling but thought it would have to be replaced. The problem was that one section of the base had dropped and the tiling had cracked either side of this.

 

After visiting the property, I told the client that it could be repaired with matching reproduction tiles and fully restored. My client was happy with this suggestion, and they agreed to go ahead with my quote on that basis.

 

Repairing a Victorian Tiled Path and Step

Our workload has been busy this year so I returned as soon as I could and started by carefully lifting the tiles from the dropped section and all the cracked tiles that had been affected. Before retiling I had to underpin the original base and raise the level with new concrete. Once this was done, I left the property for a few days so the new concrete base could cure fully. When I returned to the job, I set about fixing the replacement reproduction tiles in place laying them down in the same pattern as before, again these needed time for the adhesive to set so I left the property once completed.

 

Restorative Cleaning of Victorian Tiles

I returned again a few days later to clean and seal the tiles. I first used Tile Doctor Remove and Go to remove any ground in dirt and old sealers that may be on the original tiles. As these tiles were outside and open to the elements, I needed to remove some blackening from the tiles and used Tile Doctor Patio and Brick Driveway Cleaner to get that off. I put this on the tiles and let it dwell for a while, adding water to it to keep the tiles wet. It was a small area so to help lift the dirt out of the tile I scrubbed the tiles by hand. Once done the whole area was rinsed with more water and the soil extracted with a wet vacuum. The next step was to bring up the appearance of the tiles and remove further dirt with the application of a 100 and then 200-grit milling pad. These pads are applied with water for lubrication and do a great job of deep cleaning the tiles and hone up the face of the tile to ease the sealing process. It was a small area, and the weather was good so it wasn't too long before I could move onto sealing.

Sealing a Victorian Tiled Path and Step

When the tiles were dry, I applied two coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow and then once this had dried, I applied a coat of Tile Doctor Stone oil. Both these sealers are impregnators, which soak into the pores of the tile to enhance the appearance and natural colours of the tiles.

 

It took a half few days to fully restore the path, fortunately Chislehurst is very close to my base in Bromley and so I was able to do some other work in between. The step looked new afterwards and my client was very impressed with the completed job.

Source: Victorian Step Cleaning and Repair Service in Chislehurst

9 Ways You're Ruining Your Wood Flooring

You’ve spent the time, the money, and the effort putting in that new hardwood floor—and it shows! Protect your investment by following a few simple rules, and keep that floor looking showroom-worthy for years to come.

1. An Un-Welcome Entry

You’re probably ready to invite friends and neighbors over to ogle your newest project, but before you do, roll out the Welcome Mat. Literally. This simple thing is more than a gesture to let your guests know they’re welcome in your home. It’s also a reminder to wipe your feet before coming inside. Besides the obvious dirt and grime that can enter your home, smaller pieces of grit can get ground in, causing your floor to age prematurely. And who wants to look older than they are?

2. No Shoes, No Entry!

Yes, we know. Wear and tear is bound to happen, but some things cause wear and tear to happen much quicker—high heels, for instance. So, we’d like to offer a suggestion. For some, it might sound extreme, but it’s a common custom in many cultures around the world. If you’re comfortable doing so, now's the time to institute the “no shoes in the house” rule. It’s probably more convenient if you live in a climate where "slippahs" are the norm, but it’s still a good practice in general.

Aside from the regular foot traffic and high heels that can wear down the floor, keeping shoes out of the house also prevents the possibility of tracking dangerous chemicals like arsenic or lead into your home. These chemicals are sometimes present in the soil of homes near refineries. Check with your local university extension services for information on how to test the soil for these chemicals.

3. Using Wrong Floor Cleaners

They may all sound alike, but they aren’t all made the same. The wrong cleaner can contain abrasives, waxes, or harsh chemicals, which can either strip or cause a waxy buildup that can dull the floor. Verify with the installer or manufacturer what types and methods of floor cleaning are best for your particular product.

4. Unprotected Furniture Feet

Attaching felt pads under the feet of your furniture is a must. Even small adjustments made to straighten out the coffee table or push a sofa away from the wall are enough to mar the surface. These pads are inexpensive and attach to the bottom of the feet with a peel-and-stick adhesive side to keep them in place.

5. Too Much Sunlight

Just like you don’t want the sun’s rays to hit your skin without proper UV protection, the same goes for your floor. Direct sunlight can fade the finish and cause discoloration, which becomes obvious when you move the furniture or rugs to expose those previously protected sections. Keep direct sunlight to a minimum by closing blinds or drapes during those times of the day. And consider rearranging furniture now and then to allow you to clean the neglected spots and hidden areas and offer shade to those areas that were once exposed.

6. Wrong Rug Pad

A nice area rug adds warmth and coziness to a room in addition to protection from sun exposure and foot traffic. Keep you and your guests safe by installing non-slip padding underneath. Rubber-backed mats have great non-slip qualities, can dull the finish. Consider rug pads that contain a combination of felt and rubber to keep those rugs from moving around and causing tripping hazards.

7. Improper Vacuum Attachment

The beater brush used for rugs is—ahem—for rugs. The floor attachment is a less aggressive cleaning method that sucks up the never-ending amount of grit and dust bunnies that seem to escape no matter how much sweeping and vacuuming we do.

8. Pet Nails

It’s not just the nails of large, heavy dogs that can scratch up the floor. Your little fur babies might not have the weight behind them, but they have claws, and if they can scratch up your skin, they can do the same to the floor. Keeping those nails trimmed reduces the likelihood of damage while increasing your sanity by reducing the infernal clicking of their toes when they walk around at night!

9. Put the Brakes on Those Wheels

The convenience of a home office has never been so important as it has been in the past year. A dedicated space must include the all-important rolling office chair. Put a rug or padded mat under that chair to keep scratches at bay. Trust us—we’ve already suffered through the heartache of this tragedy. Please learn from our mistake.

With your new floor in place, keep wear and tear to a minimum by following these simple rules so you can enjoy the new look without worrying about every new scratch that happens.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Adding Value to your Victorian Property with Floor Tile Renovation

We were contacted by a customer in West Kirby who needed help renovating a Victorian tiled hallway in a house they had just purchased. Kirby is a desirable seaside location North of Heswall that expanded with the arrival of the railway in 1848. The railway brought a demand for property and so it’s not unusual to find housing stock in this area dating back to the Victorian era.

 

The Victorian tiles at this property appear to have been neglected by the previous owner and were now looking very dull and marked by paint from decorating; all the colours looked washed out and the floor was now looking very unappealing.

 

The good news however is that this problem is not uncommon and with a deep clean and a fresh sealer applied it can be transformed. I gave the owner a quote which was accepted a date agreed for my return to do the work.

 

Deep Cleaning a Victorian Tiled Hallway Floor

On the first day the floor was sprayed with a neat solution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go which is a powerful alkaline cleaning and stripping agent used to remove old seals and paint. The solution was left to dwell for about twenty minutes so it could soak in and get to work. It was then scrubbed into the tiles using a coarse 200-grit pad fitted to a heavy buffing machine. Water was then added to the floor for lubrication and the soils released from the pores of the tile during scrubbing was removed by with a wet vacuum.

To treat the stubborn paint stains and remains of what I suspect was carpet adhesive a hand scraper and wire brush was used, this was made easier by the Remove and Go which had softened the paint etc.

The next stage was to give the Victorian tiles a mild acid wash using Acid Gel which is applied to the floor, scrubbed in, and rinsed off with a little water then extracted using the wet vacuum. We always recommend an acid wash for old floors like these as it will counter any efflorescent salts resident in the tiles and helps to remove other mineral contaminates and old grout that can mask the true beauty of the tiles.

Sealing a Victorian Tiled Hallway Floor

I left the tiles to dry out for two days before returning to apply the sealer, first checking it was dry by testing for moisture in various places with an electronic damp tester. It’s not a good idea to apply a sealer to a damp floor so we always check first.

Satisfied the floor was dry, I started applying a coat of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is a colour enhancing impregnating sealer that helps to bring out the true colours in the tile. This was allowed to dry for thirty minutes and then followed up five coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go Extra which is a breathable sealer that leaves a lovely satin finish and builds on the protection.

 

Once done the Victorian hallway tiles looked so much cleaner and healthier. It was quite a transformation and the new sealer had given the floor a nice low sheen shine which the customer was very happy with.

 

For aftercare cleaning I left them with a bottle of Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner which is specially formulated for cleaning sealed tiles. We don’t recommend tile cleaning products you find on supermarket shelves as the are usually too strong and can strip a sealer off the floor prematurely. If your choosing another product to clean your floor always read the label to make sure its compatible.

Source: Victorian Floor Cleaning and Renovation Service in Merseyside

Cheshire Expert Details how to Remove Mould and Completely Renovate a Ceramic Tiled Shower Cubicle

I was asked by a Chelford homeowner (near Alderley Edge) to renovate their Ceramic Tiled Shower Cubicle which had an unsightly mould problem. They say pictures speak louder than words, so I’ve added some photos on this page which show how the grout and silicone sealant had become discoloured with mould over the ten years since it was installed.

 

Mould likes damp warm areas and shower cubicles make a perfect habitat for it, grout especially can be a problem due to its cementitious rough surface that mould can get a grip on. In this case the ventilation in the ensuite was inadequate and ideally there should have been an extraction vent over the cubicle itself. My advice in these situations is to leave doors and windows open after showering and to run the cold water afterwards.

 

Removing Mould from a Ceramic Tiled Shower Cubicle

To renovate the Tile and Grout I sprayed on Tile Doctor Duo-Clean which was left to soak into the grout line for ten minutes before being scrubbed in by hand. The Ceramic tiles cleaned quite easily but the grout had to be scrubbed hard and needed several applications before I was satisfied.

The whole shower needed treating in this fashion and once rinsed and dried I set about stripping out all the old silicone sealant that had also been badly affected by mould. This is done carefully using a sharp knife. I removed the debris and moved onto applying a fresh mould resistant silicone sealant.

Sealing a Ceramic Tiled Shower Cubicle

Last step before leaving was to spray the Ceramic tile and especially the Grout and Silicone with a can of Tile Doctor Aerosol Grout Sealer. This doesn’t last as long as other sealants in the Tile Doctor range but its quick to apply, especially on wall tiles. The sealer ensures water will run straight off the walls into the shower tray and it also makes the shower easier to clean later.

 

The shower looked like a new installation by the time I had finished, and my client was delighted with the transformation. He was also thankful that I had replaced the silicone, this was something he had considered doing himself but applying it does take practice and you can get yourself into a mess. 

Source: Bathroom Tile and Grout Cleaning and Renovation Service in Cheshire

9 Ways You're Ruining Your Wood Flooring

You’ve spent the time, the money, and the effort putting in that new hardwood floor—and it shows! Protect your investment by following a few simple rules, and keep that floor looking showroom-worthy for years to come.

1. An Un-Welcome Entry

You’re probably ready to invite friends and neighbors over to ogle your newest project, but before you do, roll out the Welcome Mat. Literally. This simple thing is more than a gesture to let your guests know they’re welcome in your home. It’s also a reminder to wipe your feet before coming inside. Besides the obvious dirt and grime that can enter your home, smaller pieces of grit can get ground in, causing your floor to age prematurely. And who wants to look older than they are?

2. No Shoes, No Entry!

Yes, we know. Wear and tear is bound to happen, but some things cause wear and tear to happen much quicker—high heels, for instance. So, we’d like to offer a suggestion. For some, it might sound extreme, but it’s a common custom in many cultures around the world. If you’re comfortable doing so, now's the time to institute the “no shoes in the house” rule. It’s probably more convenient if you live in a climate where "slippahs" are the norm, but it’s still a good practice in general.

Aside from the regular foot traffic and high heels that can wear down the floor, keeping shoes out of the house also prevents the possibility of tracking dangerous chemicals like arsenic or lead into your home. These chemicals are sometimes present in the soil of homes near refineries. Check with your local university extension services for information on how to test the soil for these chemicals.

3. Using Wrong Floor Cleaners

They may all sound alike, but they aren’t all made the same. The wrong cleaner can contain abrasives, waxes, or harsh chemicals, which can either strip or cause a waxy buildup that can dull the floor. Verify with the installer or manufacturer what types and methods of floor cleaning are best for your particular product.

4. Unprotected Furniture Feet

Attaching felt pads under the feet of your furniture is a must. Even small adjustments made to straighten out the coffee table or push a sofa away from the wall are enough to mar the surface. These pads are inexpensive and attach to the bottom of the feet with a peel-and-stick adhesive side to keep them in place.

5. Too Much Sunlight

Just like you don’t want the sun’s rays to hit your skin without proper UV protection, the same goes for your floor. Direct sunlight can fade the finish and cause discoloration, which becomes obvious when you move the furniture or rugs to expose those previously protected sections. Keep direct sunlight to a minimum by closing blinds or drapes during those times of the day. And consider rearranging furniture now and then to allow you to clean the neglected spots and hidden areas and offer shade to those areas that were once exposed.

6. Wrong Rug Pad

A nice area rug adds warmth and coziness to a room in addition to protection from sun exposure and foot traffic. Keep you and your guests safe by installing non-slip padding underneath. Rubber-backed mats have great non-slip qualities, can dull the finish. Consider rug pads that contain a combination of felt and rubber to keep those rugs from moving around and causing tripping hazards.

7. Improper Vacuum Attachment

The beater brush used for rugs is—ahem—for rugs. The floor attachment is a less aggressive cleaning method that sucks up the never-ending amount of grit and dust bunnies that seem to escape no matter how much sweeping and vacuuming we do.

8. Pet Nails

It’s not just the nails of large, heavy dogs that can scratch up the floor. Your little fur babies might not have the weight behind them, but they have claws, and if they can scratch up your skin, they can do the same to the floor. Keeping those nails trimmed reduces the likelihood of damage while increasing your sanity by reducing the infernal clicking of their toes when they walk around at night!

9. Put the Brakes on Those Wheels

The convenience of a home office has never been so important as it has been in the past year. A dedicated space must include the all-important rolling office chair. Put a rug or padded mat under that chair to keep scratches at bay. Trust us—we’ve already suffered through the heartache of this tragedy. Please learn from our mistake.

With your new floor in place, keep wear and tear to a minimum by following these simple rules so you can enjoy the new look without worrying about every new scratch that happens.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com