How to Build a Ceramic Tile Cutter

 A ceramic tile cutter is an important tool for cutting border tiles during floor tile installation. A ready-made tile cutter with base, clamp, and cutter in one unit can cost a lot of money. To lessen the cost, make an improvised ceramic tile cutter unit with a table base instead.

What you’ll need

• Handheld Tile Cutter
• Table (2-3 feet in width and at least 3 feet in length)
• 1x1 or 2x2 Wooden Board
• Drill
• Screws
• Screwdriver
• Meter Stick
• Two C-Clamps
• Saw

Step 1 – Setting up the Table

Determine which side edge of the table to work with. For right-handed people, the right side edge is best. On the back length of the tabletop, secure the meter stick on the edge with the scaled markings, rising up and facing toward the tabletop. Half of the width of the meter stick should be rising from the tabletop and the scales should be in centimeters (or in inches depending on one’s preference). The end of the stick should be flush with the right side edge of the table. At the back of the meter stick, on the lower half of its width, pre-drill screw holes 2 inches apart. Set the screws and tighten them.

Step 2 – Installing the Fixed Straight Edge

Cut two 1x1 or 2x2 wooden boards exactly the same width as the table. Position one on top of the table with the tip exactly on the starting edge of the meter stick and the length perpendicular with the meter stick. The other board will serve as the straight edge guide for cutting the tile.

Step 3 – Positioning the Tile on the Table Base

To prepare a tile for cutting, position it on top of the table with one side flush with the fixed wooden beam and the other side flush with the meter stick. The meter stick and the beam will ensure that the tile is positioned at a right angle. Position one of the C-clamps on the back length of the table and use it to clamp the left side corner of the tile. Tighten the clamp, but make sure not to put too much pressure to avoid breaking the tile.

Step 4 – Marking, Scoring and Cutting the Tile

Using the scales on the meter stick, determine where the tile will be cut. Use the straight edge wooden beam as a guide; mark the tile with a pencil. With the straight edge in position, use the other clamp to secure it on top of the tile. Take the hand-held tile cutter and position it on top of the marked line. Place the tip of the cutter exactly on the marked line, apply pressure and score the entire line downwards to the bottom edge. Remove the clamps and the straight edge, move the tile towards the right side edge of the table until the scored line is in line with the edge. Press the left side of the tile with the left hand and push the right side of the tile slightly downwards until it snaps off.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Restore the Polish on old Marble Floor Tiles

This Black and White Marble tiled hallway floor at a Grade II listed property in the village of Tattenhall has quite a history. The building was constructed in 1865 and at one time it has been the home to the high sheriff of Cheshire, and the family home of Edith Wignall the daughter of Sir Henry Tate the founder of the sugar company Tate and Lyle.

In more recent years the property had been used as a council building and even a nursing home for the elderly. After a long history of decline it has now been restored to a lavish family mansion however the marble floor had suffered over the years and still need attention. The current owner had been in touch as they wanted it restoring and basically brought back to life.

 

As it turns out I had already planned to go to Tattenhall the following week to work on another listed building which was formerly the village bank. After discussing the Marble floor over the phone, I agreed a date and time to pop over from the bank and inspect the floor in detail. I can provide a rough quote from photographs, which has been especially useful recently, but it’s far better for all concerned if I’m able to properly survey the floor first.

The Marble floor consisted of Black and White Mable tiles laid in a diamond pattern, it wasn't a very large area perhaps 9 square metres in total. The tiles were well worn as described but also stained and scratched. I would see they would need a deep burnish and polish to bring them back to life and then protected with a fresh sealer. Following on from that visit I was able to provide an accurate quote which was accepted, and a date agreed for my return.

 

Removing Scratches and Stains from a Marble Tiled Entrance Hall Floor

The first job was to protect the surrounding heavy wooden panelling with masking film. The floor was very heavily stained yellow with deep scratches, to remove these I would have to grind the marble back until a clean fresh tile was left. To start I used a 200-grit coarse pad fitted to a weighted buffing machine, the abrasive action of the pad was lubricated with water. After inspection I found that the staining and scratches were still there, so I needed to use stronger pads, so I worked my way through a set of very coarse milling pads starting at a 50, 100 and finishing with a 200-grit pad. Again, water was used to lubricate, and the resultant slurry was removed by a powerful wet vacuum and washed down between each pad.

The milling pads had the desired effect, and I was then able to bring back the polished appearance of the Marble surface using a set of finer burnishing pads with the same process. The 400 and 800-grit pads helped to clean and remove the fine scratches left by the milling pads and then the next 1500-grit pad started to build the shine back on the marble tile.

After finishing with 1500-grit pad I washed the Marble with Tile Doctor Stone Soap and vacuumed up the residue with the wet vacuum. I left an industrial blower in place overnight to dry out the floor ready for the next morning when it would be sealed.

Sealing a Marble Tiled Entrance Hall Floor

The next morning, I used the last of the four burnishing pads which is a very fine 3000-grit to polish the floor further. This last pad is applied dry with just a spray of water to create a high gloss finish.

When I was happy, I sealed the floor with two coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is an impregnating sealer that soaks into the fine pores of the Marble to protect it from within. This product also improves colour and after application it was left to soak into the tile for five minutes before polishing off and then leaving it to dry.

 

The last step was to I buff the floor with a white pad. The finish was impressive, and the family were very happy with the work we had carried out. For aftercare I recommended they use Stone Soap as its designed for the regular cleaning of sealed and polished stone, as well as cleaning it also helps build the patina.

Source: Marble Floor Cleaning and Polishing in Cheshire

Steps To Laying A New Subfloor

 If you’ve removed an old floor to replace it only to find that the subfloor underneath is damaged, you will have to replace the subfloor before installing a new floor. While this is not an easy task, a do-it-yourselfer can complete the job with a few pointers. Here’s what you need to know.

What you’ll need

• ¼ -inch plywood
• Hammer
• Nails
• Tape measure
• Hand Saw
• Straight ruler
• Jig Saw
• Circular Saw

Step 1: Remove Old Baseboards

The baseboards will be replaced after you install the new subfloor, but in the meantime you will need to get the baseboards off the wall. Place them aside if you plan on reusing the same boards.

Step 2: Take Measurements

Measure the dimensions of the room you are installing the floor in. You will want to allow a 1/8-inch gap for natural expansion at each edge. Sketch the dimensions on a piece of paper as you measure. This will help you create a diagram to scale to use as a guide for the materials.

Step 3: Orientation

You need to figure out what way you will want to lay the flooring. Remember you need to use the least number of plywood sheets you can. So use your diagram to figure out which direction will give you the most coverage.

Step 4: Start Laying the Plywood

Start by laying one piece of plywood down on the old floor starting in the corner. Remember to leave your 1/8-inch for expansion. Nail this piece down using plenty of nails. They are cheap and will make the floor quieter once it’s finished.

Step 5: Lay Subsequent Pieces

You can now use your jig saw or circular saw to make cuts to the next few pieces and lay them out so they fit snugly. Lay them out in one row from wall to wall.

Once you have finished the first row you can move on to the second row. You will want to use a plywood piece that’s about half the length of the first one. This will create the seams that you need for the subfloor. It should look similar to what a bricklayer would do.

Step 6:  Keep Working Until It’s Finished

You will want to continue laying the flooring down in this manner until you have completed the entire area. Go back over and make sure all the pieces are nailed down securely and the seams are even.

You’ve just finished your new subfloor, and can now start working on laying the new floor down. Once the floor is done you can go back and reattach your baseboards and add any finishing touches.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Soften the Edge after Cutting Ceramic Tile

Cutting ceramic tiles can lead to sharp and serrated edges. These edges require smoothing for both safety reasons and aesthetic appeal. Here is how to soften the edge after cutting ceramic tiles.

What you’ll need

• Protective eye wear
• Work gloves
• Low grit sandpaper
• High grit sandpaper
• A power sander
• A low grit file
• A high grit file
• Cement/concrete slab
• Step 1 – Safety
• Put on your protective eye wear and work gloves.

Step 2 – Sanding the Edges by Hand

The type of sandpaper used to smooth the tiles will depend on the roughness of the edges. The rougher the tile edge, the more abrasiveness needed on the sandpaper. Begin with a sixty grit sandpaper. Use the sandpaper to dull the rough and serrated edges on the tile. Continue the sanding process with finer sandpaper, moving up to a four hundred grit level. The finest sandpaper should be used to smooth and polish the tile edges. 

Step 3 - Power Sanding the Edges

A rotary sander works well with curved tiles and a belt sander is best with flat edged tiles. Use a low grit sandpaper. Connect the paper to the power sander. Gently sand the tile edges. Stop to check the edges often to be sure you are not removing more tile than you would like. Once the sharp edges are dull, polish them with a four hundred grit paper. 

Step 4 – Filing the Edges

Use an abrasive file to begin filing the sharp edges of the tiles. Once the edges are dull, use a finer file to continue the process until the edges are smooth and polished.

Step 5 – Other Smoothing Techniques

Concrete and cement can be used to smooth straight edges if you are unable to locate any sandpaper or files. Hold the tile securely. Gently slide the tile edge along the concrete or cement. This process may not produce a polished texture to the edge, but it will reduce any dangerous sharp edges.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Soften the Edge After Cutting Ceramic Tile

A complex design or just less-than-perfect dimensions might lead you to having to cut your ceramic tiles to install them properly, whether it’s in a shower, as part of a kitchen backsplash, or on your floors. But while manual score-and-snap tile cutters make the task easy, cuts will leave behind sharp and serrated edges. These edges may require smoothing for both safety reasons and aesthetic appeal, such as when you need to set the end of a tile against a bathtub. Here is how to soften the rough areas on your cut ceramic tiles.

What you’ll need

• Protective eye wear
• Work gloves
• Sanding block
• Emery cloth
• Low-grit file
• High-grit file
• Cement/concrete slab

Step 1 – Stay Safe

Since the edges of cut tile can be very sharp and filing them can produce nasty slivers, you will need some heavy-duty work gloves to ensure that you don’t injure yourself. Dust coming off the tile could also irritate your eyes or lungs, so you should put on a face mask and safety glasses too.

Step 2 – Smooth the Edges by Hand

When sanding by hand, avoid using simply sandpaper in your hand as the sharp, rough edges can cause it to rip. Instead, use a sanding block with a low-grit side or some emery cloth. Both of these solutions are much more durable than straight sandpaper and are more likely to yield a better result. If your edges are particularly rough to start, use the emery cloth first as it is made to be able to smooth rough metals, and then move progressively to a high-grit edge on your sanding block for the final touches. 

Step 3 - File the Edges

You can also use an abrasive file to begin smoothing the sharp edges of the cut tiles. Just place your tile on a flat, firm surface, holding the end down with your non-dominant hand. Then, place the file on the edge, about an inch from the tip, and push downward in a single smooth stroke. Repeat this process until the edges are no longer sharp. Switch to a finer grit file to continue refining until the edges are smooth and polished. 

Step 4 – Try Other Smoothing Techniques

Concrete and cement can be used to smooth straight edges if you are unable to get ahold of the aforementioned materials. Hold the tile securely and gently slide the edge along the concrete or cement several times. Check between every few strokes to see if the edge is as smooth as you need This process may not produce a polished texture, but it will work in a pinch to reduce any dangerous sharp edges.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Prepare a Floor to Install Porcelain Tile

 Before preparing to install porcelain tile in the floor of a kitchen, living room, bathroom, or bedroom, make sure to have a subfloor that is in good condition. Porcelain tile can be a good substitute to other types of ceramic tiles, but when you install porcelain tile, like any other ceramic tile, be sure to work on a level subfloor. Here are the instructions for how to achieve that goal.

What You'll Need:

• Cement Backer Board
• Thinset Mortar
• Notched Trowel
• Drill
• Seam Tape for Cement Backer Boards
• Utility Knife
• Pencil
• Tape Measure
• Square
• Saw
• Patch and Leveler
• Level
• Roofing Nails or Screws

Step 1 - Prep the Subfloor

Check if the subfloor is ready for the installation of the backer boards by using a level to check for surface uniformity. If some portions of the subfloor are lower than the others, make it level by applying a patch. Apply the patch according to the manufacturer’s instructions and allow it to dry before checking again with a level. If there are baseboards or trim at the sides of the floor, remove them first and reinstall them after the backer boards and the tiles are all set.

Step 2 - Prep the Cement Backer Boards

Do not install porcelain tile directly to the subfloor unless it is already made of cement that has been made accurately level. Install cement backer boards first if the subfloor is made of other materials. First, measure the entire area to be tiled and use that measurement to determine how many backer boards are needed for the job. Purchase additional backer boards just in case (about ten percent of the estimated number of backer boards required). Cement backer boards are very useful because they provide a sturdy and stable foundation for the tiles.

Step 3 - Install the Cement Backer Boards

Prepare the thinset according to the manufacturer’s instructions and mix it well in a container. Scoop out a good amount of the mixture and transfer it to the notched trowel. Start working on the corners for easier installation. Begin the application of the mortar on a small portion of the floor enough to cover the area of one cement backer board. Make sure the thinset is applied evenly to ensure the backer boards will be installed uniformly.

Place one piece of backer board on top of the thinset mortar. Be sure to have its edges touch the walls. Press firmly until it is all set. Drill the screws on all four sides to secure it to the subfloor. Proceed with the other backer boards by following the same procedure. For the final pieces, measure the required dimensions and transfer the measurements on the boards. Cut them using a utility knife and install them in the same manner.

Step 4 - Finishing Touches

When everything is all set, cover the butt joints with seam tape. Cover the seam tapes with thinset mortar as well and allow it to dry. When the foundation is ready, install porcelain tile.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Soften the Edge After Cutting Ceramic Tile

Cutting ceramic tiles can lead to sharp and serrated edges. These edges require smoothing for both safety reasons and aesthetic appeal. Here is how to soften the edge after cutting ceramic tiles.

What you’ll need

• Protective eye wear
• Work gloves
• Low grit sandpaper
• High grit sandpaper
• A power sander
• A low grit file
• A high grit file
• Cement/concrete slab

Step 1 – Safety

Put on your protective eye wear and work gloves.

Step 2 – Sanding the Edges by Hand

The type of sandpaper used to smooth the tiles will depend on the roughness of the edges. The rougher the tile edge, the more abrasiveness needed on the sandpaper. Begin with a sixty grit sandpaper. Use the sandpaper to dull the rough and serrated edges on the tile. Continue the sanding process with finer sandpaper, moving up to a four hundred grit level. The finest sandpaper should be used to smooth and polish the tile edges. 

Step 3 - Power Sanding the Edges

A rotary sander works well with curved tiles and a belt sander is best with flat edged tiles. Use a low grit sandpaper. Connect the paper to the power sander. Gently sand the tile edges. Stop to check the edges often to be sure you are not removing more tile than you would like. Once the sharp edges are dull, polish them with a four hundred grit paper. 

Step 4 – Filing the Edges

Use an abrasive file to begin filing the sharp edges of the tiles. Once the edges are dull, use a finer file to continue the process until the edges are smooth and polished.

Step 5 – Other Smoothing Techniques

Concrete and cement can be used to smooth straight edges if you are unable to locate any sandpaper or files. Hold the tile securely. Gently slide the tile edge along the concrete or cement. This process may not produce a polished texture to the edge, but it will reduce any dangerous sharp edges.

 Source: www.DoItYourself.com