How to Clean Mold and Mildew in the House From High Humidity

Mold and mildew in the home can grow into a serious health hazard if left untreated. These fungi thrive in bathrooms, laundry rooms or wherever heat and moisture mix. They can cause health issues for the home's inhabitants, especially people with allergies or respiratory problems. While combating mold and mildew is just a fact of life for people who live in humid climates, once you know how to clean and remove mold and mildew, you can address the problem at its source.

A Quick Clean
If furnishings and household items become damp or wet, you must clean them within in the first 24 to 48 hours. Waiting more than 48 hours promotes mold and mildew growth. Clean moldy surfaces using detergent and rinse thoroughly with water before allowing to dry completely. The sun's ultraviolet rays also kill mold spore, so allow items to dry outdoors when possible. You may need to throw out porous materials, such as some woods, ceiling tiles and fabrics when they have severe infestations. As you easily ingest or inhale mold and mildew spores during cleaning, take steps to limit your exposure. Wear gloves, goggles and a N95-rated face mask when working with mold and mildew. Select gloves made from polyurethane, natural rubber and other heavy duty materials to keep your hands protected

A Stronger Solution
For more challenging infestations, use a beach solution consisting of 1 cup of bleach and one gallon of water. A stiff-bristle brush effectively removes fungi growth from the hard surfaces found in tubs and showers. Refrain from mixing bleach with household cleaners containing ammonia as it produces harmful, toxic fumes. Avoid working in enclosed spaces; keep doors and windows open to encourage the circulation of fresh air. Do not use bleach for routine mold and mildew clean-ups -- reserve it for severe cases. Call in a professional mold remediation team for infestations larger than 10 square feet.

Carpets and Floors
Carpets offer an ideal environment for mold and mildew to thrive as moisture collects in the rug fibers and can lead to rampant growth. Frequently launder area or throw rugs to get rid of mold and prevent new growth. Immediately spot clean carpet stains and spills as they occur to prevent the moisture absorption. Blot dry after cleaning to remove excess dampness. Any leftover moisture from the cleaning process exacerbates mold and mildew growth.

Air It Out
Excess moisture combined with heat causes mildew and mold growth. Dealing with mold and mildew becomes an endless cycle of cleaning, unless you treat the problem at its source. Fix drafty windows and leaky pipes in bathrooms, basements and kitchens where moisture accumulates. Open up doors and windows to let in fresh air or ventilate the moisture by turning on exhaust fans in kitchen and bath areas. When temperatures climb -- or if you live in a particularly humid area -- use air conditioners and dehumidifiers to promote dry conditions. Vent clothes dryers to redirect moisture outside the home.


Source: HomeGuides.sfgate.com

How to Remove Glued Down Carpet Tiles From Concrete

Carpet tiles are a do-it-yourself home improvement project, but removing them from concrete can be challenging. If the tiles are newer, they may lift with little effort and leave almost no glue behind. A good scrubbing afterward is all you’ll need. If the tiles are older, or if spreadable adhesive was used, removing the tiles is an arduous process that requires at least a day, possibly a weekend. Remove a few tiles to determine whether the glue is stubborn.

Things You Will Need

• Knee pads
• Work gloves
• Putty knife or metal scraper
• Pliers
• Trisodium phosphate
• Long-handle floor scraper
• Broom
• Carpet tile adhesive remover
• Painter’s tape
• Chemical-resistant gloves
• Eye protection
• Respirator-style face mask
• Sponge or paintbrush
• Paint scraper
• 2 buckets
• Stiff scrub brush
• Wide floor squeegee
• Wet / dry utility vacuum

Pull Up Tiles

1. Put on knee pads and work gloves.
2. Pull up one corner of a carpet tile. The first tile is often the most difficult to lift. If you can’t lift any corner, push the edge of a putty knife or metal scraper under the edge to pry the tile loose.
3. Peel the tile off the floor with gloved hands or pliers.
4. Assess the adhesive. If it is clear and sticky with little remaining on the concrete, peel off the remainder of the tiles and scrub the concrete afterward with trisodium phosphate diluted in warm water according to the manufacturer’s directions. If the glue is hard and stuck to the concrete, peel off the tiles and proceed to scraping the floor.

Scrape the Concrete

1. Push a long-handled floor scraper along the floor at an angle with the blade pointed away from you, removing as much glue as possible.
2. Sweep the floor to remove the particles.
3. Inspect the floor for stubborn glue. If you cannot scrape it off, proceed to dissolving it with carpet tile adhesive remover.

Remove Adhesive

1. Apply painter’s tape across the baseboards.
2. Put on chemical-resistant gloves, eye protection and a respirator-style face mask. If you took off the knee pads to scrape the floor, put them back on.
3. Apply carpet tile adhesive remover to a 12-inch square area of the floor with a sponge or paintbrush.
4. Let the adhesive remover sit on the concrete until the adhesive softens, then scrape it off the floor with a handheld paint scraper.
5. Drop glue scrapings into an old bucket for disposal. Continue around the room until the glue is removed.
6. Sweep the floor and proceed to cleaning it.

Clean

1. Fill a bucket with warm water and trisodium phosphate, known as TSP, in a dilution that the TSP manufacturer recommends to clean floors.
2. Dip a stiff scrub brush into the bucket to wet it, and scrub the floor with the solution. Mix more solution as necessary to scrub the whole floor.
3. Pull a squeegee across the floor and deposit the residue in one location in the room.
4. Vacuum up the liquid and residue with a wet / dry utility vacuum.
5. Fill a bucket with plain warm water. Wet a sponge in the bucket and wipe the floor to remove the last traces of cleaning solution. Empty the bucket and refill it with clean water frequently until the floor is fully rinsed.

Warnings

• Aggressive scraping can break the floor scraper and chip the concrete.
• Some flooring adhesive removers require a well-ventilated room.

Source: HomeGuides.sfgate.com

Expert Reveals Insider Knowledge of Edwardian Floor Restoration

I took these pictures earlier in the year when a homeowner got in touch requesting repairs to a Geometric Tiled Hallway floor at their property in Birstall, Leicestershire.

The tiles were made by Craven Dunhill back in the Edwardian Era, a company which is still in operation today. They are an original Victorian Geometric & Encaustic Tile manufacturer and have been operating from their facility in Jackfield, Telford since 1872. The tiles were a lovely example of their work but clearly the tiles were now in need of some work to bring them back to their former glory.

I popped along to the property to have a look at the floor in person, survey the floor and produce an accurate quote for renovating it. I could see there was damage to border tiles from tacks, fixing holes and resin adhesive which indicated the floor had been covered by a carpet at some point in its long history. The main body of the floor also had movement cracks, and a section in front of the stairs had dropped considerably. This was loose underfoot and a trip hazard.


After surveying the floor, I was able to give the owners an accurate quote for repairing and restoring the floor back to its original condition. They were happy with the quote and we agreed a date for my return. Original features like these are well worth preserving as they are very sought after and add a lot of value to a property, especially when the tiles are from a respected manufacturer like Craven Dunhill or Mintons.

Cleaning and Repairing an Edwardian Era Geometric Tiled Hallway Floor

Arriving on the first day, we prepared the area by taping off the surrounding areas with dust sheets. We then began the careful process of repairing the floor starting with the removal of the damaged and loose tiles.


With the tiles removed the next step was to repair the damage to the subfloor using cement to fill the voids and raise the lowered section. Once this has dried the tiling was replaced using a combination of original and replacement tiles. As the manufacturer was still in business the client had managed to source some replacements tiles which made the job a lot easier to complete and would ensure the heritage of the restoration.


Once the tiles had been replaced you could really see the floor was starting to come together and I we were all looking forward to seeing the finished result.

With the repairs completed we carried out a low-moisture restorative clean and seal using Tile Doctors Remove and Go and Acid Gel products along with light diamond pads. This two-stage process remove the build-up of soiling and sealers. Following this the floor was thoroughly rinsed, and the waste extracted with a wet vacuum. The floor was then left for a few days to dry out.

Sealing an Edwardian Era Geometric Tiled Hallway Floor

We retuned a few days later and tested the floor with the damp meter to check the floor was ready for the seal. The readings were acceptable and so we were able to finish the floor by apply a protecting sealer. For this floor we selected to use Tile Doctor Colour Grow. This is an impregnating sealer that soaks into the pores of the tile intensifies the colours and providing durable protection from within. Colour Grow is fully breathable sealer which is a vital consideration for floors of this age which do not have a damp proof membrane installed.


The work took us a week to complete and by the end floor was level and the lovely patten, colours and appearance of the floor was restored as promised. The owners were very happy with the results and new sealer will help protect the floor for up to 5 years if properly maintained with our Tile Doctor pH Neutral Tile Cleaning Concentrate.




Source: Victorian Floor Cleaning and Restoration in Leicestershire

Types & Costs of House Flooring

Flooring sets the tone of every room. Select the type of flooring according to the room’s function, the desired effect, foot traffic and your budget. Installation is relatively easy for some flooring such as vinyl tile squares and laminate boards, but hiring a professional may be more economical in the long run, particularly for more complicated materials such as stone and wall-to-wall carpeting. The type of material you choose can increase the value of your home. Average costs are current as of August 2010.

Carpet and Rugs

Carpets and rugs provide a quiet, comfortable and slip-resistant surface that enhances the look of a room. Nylon is most commonly used for carpeting due to its ease of maintenance, durability and affordability. However, homeowners can now choose from a variety of natural fibers such as wool, linen and grass. Wool provides a flame-resistant surface that is soft and luxurious, as well as environmentally friendly. Linen fibers are durable, and grass-based carpeting provides a natural anti-static surface. Given the range of materials, consider carpets that have received the Carpet and Rug Institute’s Green Label certification. These carpets emit lower levels of volatile organic compounds, or VOCs, that contribute to allergies and asthma, and promote a green and sustainable environment. Pricing for natural fiber flooring can be as low as $2 per square yard to over $100 for high-end custom designs. Homeowners can expect to pay between $14 and $30 per square yard for nylon-based carpeting and between $30 and $60 per square yard for wool carpeting.

Wood and Laminate

Homeowners can choose between two types of hardwood flooring: solid or engineered. Engineered wood boards consist of a wood veneer surface that covers layers of plywood. Unlike solid wood, these boards cannot be sanded down over the floor’s lifetime but are less susceptible to moisture and temperature changes. The existing sub floor determines the type of wood that may be used. Wood-like sub floors allow for glue down, staple, or floating installation methods of wood boards so both engineered and solid wood flooring may be installed. However, concrete and other hard sub floors limit the choice to engineered wood flooring. Pricing for hardwood floors average $8 to $14 per square foot for material and installation. Laminates imitate the look of natural materials such as wood and stone for a fraction of the real material‘s price. Laminates are comprised of a high resolution photographic image printed on a dense fiberboard with a moisture-resistant underlay. However, laminates do not add appreciably to the value of the home and are easily damaged by water. Laminate flooring ranges from $7 to $11 per square foot including installation. Bamboo flooring is gaining in popularity. Technically a grass, bamboo is a durable, resilient and moisture-resistant alternative to hardwood floors. Its rapid growth rate compared to hardwoods makes bamboo an environmentally friendly option for flooring. Bamboo flooring averages $4 to $6 per square foot for material only.

Stone and Tile

Stone flooring can make the right home look elegant while adding to its resale value. Use natural stone, which includes marble, granite and limestone, or choose agglomerates, which are manufactured by binding natural stone chips in cement, epoxy resin or polyester. They offer the natural look of stone with the advantage of being stain and scratch-resistant, and practically maintenance free. Ceramic tiles are primarily made of clay and fired to hardness. These tiles offer a durable, low-maintenance surface that is fire, water and scratch-resistant. Note that not all stones and tiles are equal; some stones and ceramic tiles can be porous, and will require extra care and attention, particularly if used in high-traffic areas. Ceramic tiles range from $1 to $20 per square foot; natural stone tiles cost more, starting at $2 per square foot and rising according to custom designs and special orders. For best results, these materials should be professional installed.


Source: Homeguides.sfgate.com

How to Remove a Single Tile

Upgrading the appearance of your bathroom may include installing a new soap dish in the shower or repairing a damaged tile. In either case, you will most likely have to remove an existing tile. Forget hiring an expensive professional, this is a perfect project for the budget-minded, DIY homeowner. All you need, in addition to a few basic tools and supplies, are an inexpensive specialized handsaw and drill bit.

Things You Will Need

• Drop cloth (optional)
• Masking tape
• Safety glasses
• Carbide handheld grout saw
• Nail set
• Hammer
• Chisel
• Putty knife
• Cordless drill
• Carbide-tipped masonry drill bit

Damaged Tile Removal

1
Spread a drop cloth below the work area if the damaged tile you plan to remove is a wall tile. Protect the tiles around the damaged tile. Tear off several strips of masking tape and adhere the pieces to the edges of the surrounding tiles. Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes.

2
Remove the old grout in the joints around the tile with a carbide handheld grout saw. Use a back-and-forth sawing motion to cut away the old grout. Be careful not to cut into the drywall or underlayment behind the tile.

3
Position the tip of a nail set against the tile at the cracked or chipped area. Tap the end of the nail set with a hammer to shatter the tile and pry the pieces off with a chisel. Move the nail set to several areas on the surface of the tile and continue to shatter and chisel away the pieces until you remove the majority of the tile.

4
Chip away at the old tile adhesive with a chisel and hammer. Scrape and smooth the area clean with a stiff putty knife. Be careful not to gouge into the drywall or underlayment during this process. The area is now ready for the new soap dish or replacement tile.

Undamaged Tile Removal

1
Follow the instructions as outlined in Step 1 and Step 2 for the removal of a damaged tile.

2
Take your nail set and punch a series of holes in an “X” pattern along the surface of the tile. These holeshelp to keep the drill bit from wandering when drilling through the tile.

3
Drill through the tile at each hole with a drill equipped with a carbide-tipped masonry bit. Be careful not to drill through the drywall or underlayment behind the tile. Use your chisel and hammer and connect the “X” pattern of holes.

4
Shatter the tile and remove the pieces with your chisel and hammer. Follow the instructions in Step 4 for the removal of a damaged tile.

Source: HomeGuides.sfgate.com

How to Clean Dirty Kitchen Floor Corners

Corners become a magnet for dirt in the kitchen. Crumbs and dirt tend to get kicked into the corners, which aren’t always perfectly visible if the corners sit beneath cabinets or behind a table. By the time you notice the dirt, it may have built up to a thick layer of grime that doesn’t easily sweep or wipe up. Getting into the corners and washing the soil from both the floor and the baseboard without damage regularly prevents them from developing a heavy dirt layer and makes the entire kitchen look cleaner.

Things You Will Need

• Broom
• Whisk broom
• Vacuum
• White vinegar or ammonia
• Spray bottle
• Soft-bristle toothbrush
• Rags

1
Sweep the entire kitchen floor. Use a small hand-held whisk broom to get into the corners if a standard broom is too large. Alternatively, use a vacuum baseboard attachment to get grime and dust from the corners that has worked between the flooring and the baseboard.

2
Combine 2 tablespoons white vinegar or ammonia with 1 quart water in a spray bottle. Spray the corner with this solution, which is safe for most flooring and for vinyl or painted baseboards.

3
Scrub the corner with an old soft-bristled toothbrush. Use the brush to access the tight corner and along the seam where the baseboard meets the floor.

4
Rinse the corner with clear water and wipe dry with a rag. Inspect the area for remaining dirt and scrub a second time if some remains.

5
Mop the rest of the kitchen after the corners are clean, using your preferred floor cleaner or the vinegar solution. Do not use a bleach-containing cleaner if you used ammonia to wash the corners. Rinse and dry the floor after mopping so water and dirt don’t accumulate in the corners again.

Tip
Sweeping or vacuuming the baseboards and corners of the kitchen at least twice a week prevents dirt from accumulating in kitchen corners.

Warning
Avoid harsh abrasive cleaners and brushes, because these can scratch kitchen floor tiles and baseboards.


Source: HomeGuides.sfgate.com

How to Restore and Extend a Victorian Tiled Hallway Floor

This client had recently moved into an older property in Bridgend and having pulled up the previous hallway covering had found a heavily soiled Victorian tiled floor underneath. However, for some reason we never discovered the answer to it only ran from the porch to the foot of the stairs which I guess explains why it had been covered up and neglected.


The client asked if we would be able to restore the existing Victorian floor and if would be possible to extend the tiling throughout the hall continuing the original pattern. Cleaning the original floor and completing the tiling work didn't present a problem however it can be tricky finding tiles to match the pattern of the original floor. Unsure if it could be done, I offered to do some research and get back to him once I had found a workable solution.

Fortunately, there are still a few suppliers that produce tiles and after speaking with other members of the Tile Doctor network I was able to source matching tiles. The owner was still keen to proceed and so I agreed a price, placed an order for the tiles and scheduled a date to start the work.

Cleaning and Repairing a Victorian Tiled Hallway Floor

Before starting the tiling work, I applied a latex levelling compound to bring the height of the floor we were going to lay up, level and flush with the existing Victorian floor. After allowing the latex to dry and now having an equally level surface, we were ready to begin laying.


Laying a tiled floor to match an existing pattern is a tricky process as your constantly having to check the geometry of the pattern as well as keeping everything in line with our levels. Another issue we ran into with this job was the new tiles that we had ordered, all differed in width from the originals which made it a very long strenuous process having to cut them to fit.


Once the floor was laid and had dried out it was time to turn our attention to the original floor which needed several deep cleans. For this we used Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which was worked in with a black scrubbing pad to release all the ingrained dirt from the tile. The dirt was then rinsed off and extracted with a wet vacuum.

Sealing a Victorian Tiled Hallway Floor

The job took eight days in total and ended with the application of five coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go sealer. Each coat is left to dry before applying the next. This seal gives the floor protection and a lovely finish. This final step of sealing really brought both floors together and left the subtle sheen finish the client requested.

For aftercare I left the client a bottle of Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner, which we recommend for cleaning sealed tiled floors. Neutral clean has a pH neutral formula which won’t harm the sealer like stronger cleaners which can prematurely strip a sealer off the floor.




Source: Victorian Tile Cleaning and Restoration Service in Swansea