Tile and Grout Cleaned and Sealed in Hallaton

This beautiful Terrazzo tiled floor in a house in Hallaton, Leicestershire had been left in a bad condition by messy builders who had failed to protect it and left it looking dull and stained with cement and paint.

Cleaning and Polishing a Terrazzo Tiled Floor

Terrazzo is a very hard surface so we used a set of 17” diamond encrusted burnishing pads to cut the surface back to its original appearance. There are four pads in the set which fit a rotary machine, the first pad is red and is used together with a little water to remove sealers. You then move onto the white pad which is the first polishing pad and designed to remove ingrained dirt, next you use the yellow pad which polishes the surface further and can smooth rough surfaces. Before applying the final polishing pad it’s necessary to tackle the grout with Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which is a powerful alkaline cleaner specially designed for use on Tile and Grout where acidic products can harm the tile. Unfortunately machinery struggles in this area and so it’s necessary to tackle this problem by hand using a stiff brush.


The final polishing of the Terrazzo Tile floor was done using a Green 17" Twister Pad and a small amount of water to give a deep high shine finish. The floor was rinsed down to remove any soil and particles from the polishing and allowed to dry before sealing the Tile Doctor Ultra-Seal which is a penetrating sealer recommended for both Terrazzo and Grout formulated to provide maximum stain protection.    

Source: Restoration of Tile and Grout in Hallaton

How to Remove Grout From Porous Tile

By Sarabeth Asaff, eHow Contributor

If you are installing porous tiles, such as marble, granite or slate, always seal them prior to grouting them. If the tiles are not sealed, the grout can seep out the many tiny holes and crevices in the tile and fill them. Once the grout begins to set, it can be difficult to get the grout out of these crevices again. You can remove dried grout from tiles within 2 to 3 weeks of the installation. After this time, the grout will cure. Depending on the type of tile, type of grout and how long it has been on the tile, you may need to take multiple steps to get the grout up.

Things You'll Need

• Green scouring pads
• Alkaline cleaners
• Water
• Grout sponges
• 4-inch razor blades
• Paper towels
• Warm water
• Sugar
• Acid grout stripper
• Rubber gloves
• Baking soda

Instructions
1
Pour some alkaline cleanser directly onto the tiles and work the area with a green scouring pad, moving the pad in a circular motion over the grout. Rinse with water by pouring fresh water over the surface repeatedly as the grout begins to come up. Wipe up excess water and grout with a grout sponge.

2
Scrape the grout from the tiles with a long-handled 4-inch razor blade. Push the blade across the tiles toward the grout joints, taking care to stop just at the joint to avoid removing the grout from the joint.

3
Wash the tiles again with an alkaline cleanser and scouring pad. Rinse well with fresh water, and clean up the area with a grout sponge.

4
Dissolve one cup of sugar into a gallon of warm water. Soak several paper towels in the sugar water, and lay them over the grout-covered tiles. Leave the paper towels on the tiles to soak into the pores for two hours.

5
Rinse the tiles with fresh water to remove the sugar, and wipe the tiles clean with a grout sponge.

6
Apply an acid grout stripper to the tiles to remove any stubborn grout. Test the stripper in an inconspicuous area first to make sure it will not remove the finish from the tiles as well. Use the stripper with a green scouring pad to pull the grout from the tiles, wearing gloves as you work with the acid.

7
Rinse the tiles with warm water, and allow them to air dry.

8
Sprinkle a layer of baking soda over the tiles to neutralize any acids remaining on the tiles before you allow bare skin to come into contact with the tiles.

9
Rinse the tiles with fresh water and allow to air dry before you allow contact with the tiles.


Source: www.eHow.com

How to Grout Porous Stone Tiles

By Kimberly Johnson, eHow Contributor

Grouting is the process of filling in the gaps between tiles. This not only makes the installation more attractive, but prevents moisture from damaging the tile. Since grout is applied on the entire top of the tile, problems occur when the tile is made of porous stone. The stone often absorbs the grout before you can wipe if off, causing stains or a hazy appearance. To prevent this, seal the tile before applying grout.

Things You'll Need

• Grout release agent
• Foam paint brush
• Buckets
• Grout
• Water
• Grout float
• Sponge

Instructions
1
Open a bottle of a grout release agent that is designed for the specific type of stone the tile is constructed of. Apply the liquid in a thin coat over the surface of each stone tile after it is mortared to the floor. Wait for the amount of time indicated on the release agent bottle before continuing.

2
Fill a bucket with a bag of dry grout and mix it with water as instructed by the directions. You can also buy a bucket of premixed grout which only require stirring up.

3
Insert a grout float into the grout and scoop up 1 cup. Place the grout onto the stone tile and pull the float toward you to push the grout into the grooves of the tile.

4
Continue applying grout until all of the grooves are filled to the top of the tiles.

5
Scrape the bottom of the grout float on top of the bucket to remove excess grout. Place the grout float back on the floor and hold it at a 45-degree angle. Scrape it over the surface of all of the tiles to remove excess grout.

6
Fill a clean bucket half full of warm water. Insert a sponge into the water and wring it out as much as possible. Wipe the sponge over each of the grout lines to smooth them out. Do not press down on the grout, simply move the sponge over them gently.

7
Rinse the sponge and wipe the surface of all of the stone tiles to remove the excess grout. Rinse the sponge frequently and replace the water in the bucket when it turns cloudy.

8
Wait for 10 to 15 minutes to see if a haze forms on the stone tile. If so, rinse the tiles again with fresh water and a sponge to remove the haze.



Source: www.eHow.com

How to Install a Porous Stone Tile Backsplash

By Tim Anderson, eHow Contributor

Natural stone tile backsplashes are rapidly becoming one of the most popular types of backslashes installed in kitchens around the nation because of their rugged beauty. The natural defects in porous stones such as tumbled marble and travertine create an aesthetic that man-made products cannot compare to, but the stones' rough texture and imperfections require additional forethought and planning in the installation process.

Things You'll Need

• Tile wet saw
• Mastic adhesive
• Notched trowel
• Pencil
• Tape measure
• Tile spacers
• Tile wedges
• Tile sponge
• Bucket (3 gallon or larger)

Instructions

1. File the outside edges of the backsplash as well as against the counter top and leave any cuts against the underside of the cabinets and in the corners. The easiest way is to install the entire bottom row from the outside starting point into the corner and then work your way up from there, stacking the tiles into the bottom edge underneath the cabinet.
2. Spread an even layer of mastic adhesive with the notched trowel, only smearing enough mastic for a few tiles at the time to avoid giving the mastic time to “tack” up and thus ruin the stickiness of the adhesive. Place a piece of the porous, natural stone into the mastic and apply pressure. This process may be repeated for each additional piece of natural stone.
3. Use a combination of tile spacers and tile wedges to provide the space for grout joints between each piece of tile. While a tile spacer may be enough for some pieces, the imperfections within the natural stone can often create pieces that are slightly different in terms of dimensions, and the tile wedges can be used to help work around these slight imperfections and create roughly even-sized grout joints.
4. Fill the bucket with warm water and then dampen your sponge to remove any excess mastic that will bleed through the porous holes in the natural stone. This is done to prevent any mastic from showing through the holes once the installation has been completed. Clean the surface of each installed tile within 10 minutes at most of installation; otherwise, the mastic can set up and make it significantly more difficult to clean.
5. Use the tile wet saw to make any necessary cuts against the bottom edge of the cabinets and into the corners where the backsplashes meet (if necessary), as well as around any electrical outlets. The tape measure and pencil can be used to measure and mark any cuts prior to cutting on the saw.
6. Allow a minimum of 24 hours before sealing and grouting the natural stone tile backsplash.

Tips & Warnings

• A typical 12-by-12 tile requires a 3/8-inch notched trowel. Larger tiles will require a larger notch, and smaller tiles a smaller notch.
• Tile spacers come in a variety of widths depending upon the personal preference of the owner relating to the size of grout joints. Tile wedges are spacers that allow for minimal adjustments in the case of natural stone, since pieces can vary in size and thus require additional manipulation.
• All materials and tools can be purchased or rented from your local home improvement store.
• Be sure to turn off all electrical current to the outlets in the backsplash before installing the tile. Always be sure to wear protective gear when working with a tile wet saw, such as safety glasses and earplugs.

Source: www.eHow.com

Old Terracotta Tiled Kitchen floor hidden under carpet in Oadby

Details here of a customer who had discovered old Terracotta tiled floor that had been hidden under carpet in the kitchen of their house in the village of Oadby Leicestershire. The carpet had been glued to the Terracotta tile which as you can see was in quite a state, the tiles also had grout haze on the surface of the tile which may have been the reason for covering them up in the first place.

Restoring Terracotta Floor Tiles

First step was to remove the carpet adhesive and grout haze which we did using a special coatings and sealer remove product called Tile Doctor Remove and Go which is a multi-purpose stripper and cleaner. We applied Remove and Go to the whole floor and then covered it with a plastic sheet and left it to dwell on the floor for around 12 hours so it could really get to work. When we returned we gave the floor a good scrub and rinsed off with clean water to neutralise the floor ready for sealing.

Sealing Terracotta Floor Tiles

The floor was dried and then sealed with six coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which is recommended for Terracotta tiled floors as it brings out the deep red colour in the tile with an attractive durable low sheen combined with stain protection whilst allowing vapour to transmission through the sealer, something you need if the floor is old and your not sure if a damp proof course has been installed. You can see from the photographs what a fantastic transformation we achieved, naturally the customer was very pleased.

   

Source: Terracotta Tile renovation in Leicestershire

How to Seal a Travertine Back Splash

By Sarabeth Asaff, eHow Contributor

Travertine is a form of limestone with a warm and rich color palette. For this reason, travertine is frequently installed on the backsplash of many kitchen designs. The purpose of the backsplash is to protect the wall from splatters, so the travertine will need to be protected as well since it is porous and susceptible to staining. Travertine can be sealed both prior to grouting, and on an ongoing basis as part of your home's yearly maintenance.


Things You'll Need

• Sealer made for porous stone
• Foam paint roller
• Wide dish or tray
• Absorbent cotton cloths

Instructions
1
Pour the sealer out of the bottle into a dish or tray wide enough for a paint roller to be dipped into. Soak a foam paint roller in the sealer and roll it over the edge of the tray to remove any drips.

2
Roll the sealer onto the travertine, starting just below the cabinets and working down to the counter to avoid drips. If sealer gets on the counter, wipe it up with an absorbent cloth. Let the sealer soak into the travertine for 10 minutes.

3
Buff the travertine with an absorbent cotton cloth. Begin below the cabinets and work down to the counter, moving the cloth in a circular motion to remove any sealer than was not absorbed into the stone.


Source: www.eHow.com

How to Install Ceramic Wall Tile

Ceramic tile is a versatile and durable finishing material. Tiles can be installed as a floor or wall covering nearly anywhere, but they are especially useful in bathrooms and kitchens. Tiled walls can resist moisture and handle scrubbing much more readily than drywall or other materials, and so they are the ideal choice for humid bathrooms and kitchens where they will be exposed to cooking splatters. Learning how to install ceramic wall tile is a task well within the reach of an average homeowner. The process requires only a few tools and materials.

Things You'll Need

• Flat head screwdriver
• Coarse-grit sandpaper
• Cloth
• Water
• Tile mastic or thinset mortar
• V-notched trowel
• Ceramic tiles
• Tile spacers
• Snap tile cutter
• Tile grout
• Rubber grout trowel
• Sponge

Steps
1.
Prepare the wall for the ceramic tile. Begin preparing the wall by removing any outlet covers and switch plates. Roughen the surface of the wall by sanding it with coarse-grit sandpaper; this will help to improve adhesion when you install the tile. Use a damp rag to clear away the dust left from sanding.

2.
Apply tile mastic or thinset mortar to the wall. Ceramic tiles can be adhered to a wall using either of 2 products: tile mastic or thinset mortar. The application process is the same for both products. Use a V-notched trowel (sometimes sold as a "tiling trowel") to spread some of the mortar onto the wall, covering an area just big enough to lay in about 8 tiles.

• Hold the notched trowel at a shallow angle against the wall, so that the notches on one of its long sides dig grooves into the mortar. Use long, sweeping motions to apply the mortar.
• It is best to start applying the mortar along an edge of your wall (such as the area where a tile backsplash meets the countertop). Installing your first few tiles along this straight edge will ensure that your overall tile pattern is not crooked.

3.
Install the ceramic tiles. To install your first tile, align one of its edges with the edge of the wall. Making sure that it is straight, push it firmly into the thinset mortar to seat it. Installing each successive tile is easier if you use tile spacers - small X-shaped plastic pieces that fit between corners of tiles and ensure an even spacing of all joints.

• Keep installing tiles by lining them up and pressing them firmly into the mortar. Once you have reached the edges of the area where you applied the mortar, repeat the process by applying another equal-sized area of mortar and applying about 8 more tiles. This process keeps the mortar from curing too quickly.
• Install each tile in this manner until you reach the other edges of the wall. Most likely, you will need to cut the final tiles smaller to get them to fit against the other edges.

4.
Cut any tiles that need to be trimmed to fit your pattern. The final row of tiles in either direction will likely need to be cut to size. Begin by holding the full tile up to the area where it needs to be installed, and marking a pencil line where it will need to be cut. The most economical way to cut straight lines in tiles is using a snap tile cutter. Run the scoring wheel firmly over the pencil line on the tile and then snap it cleanly along the score mark. The cut tiles can then be installed as usual.

• Many home improvement stores run tool rental programs through which you can rent a snap tile cutter by the day. For bigger jobs, consider using a wet tile saw. If you anticipate multiple tiling projects, you may want to purchase a tile saw of your own.
• If you need to make cuts in any shape other than a straight line, you will need to use a wet tile saw that can notch cuts partially through a tile. This is helpful for making rectangular cutouts to fit tile around an electrical outlet.

5.
Grout the joints between the tiles. After allowing the mortar to cure for about 24 hours, you are ready to fill in the joints with grout. Use unsanded grout for joints narrower than 1/8 inch (3 mm), and sanded grout for joints wider than this. Mix the grout in a clean plastic bucket according to the package directions.

• Use a rubber grout float to scoop a small amount of grout out of the bucket. Run the float across the surface of the tile, pressing firmly to work it fully into each joint. Running the float diagonally with respect to the joints provides the best results.

6.
Clean the ceramic tiles after grouting. When each joint has been filled with grout, you can clean the excess grout from the surface of the tiles. Do this by rubbing the tiles gently with a sponge and water, rinsing often. Working diagonally to the joints will keep you from lifting any grout out from between the tiles. After about half an hour, the grout will be cured and a hazy film will develop over the tiles. Buff this film away using a clean, dry cloth.


Tips

• If you notice a skin forming on top of the thinset mortar or tile mastic, do not install tiles over it. Scrape it off using a paint scraper and apply fresh mortar before continuing.
• In wet environments, it is best to apply a bead of silicone caulking around the borders of the tile installation.
• Ceramic tiles can be applied to nearly any surface, including both painted and unfinished drywall. However, for the best adhesion, consider installing cement backer board underneath the tiles.

Source: www.WikiHow.com