Steps To Laying A New Subfloor

 If you’ve removed an old floor to replace it only to find that the subfloor underneath is damaged, you will have to replace the subfloor before installing a new floor. While this is not an easy task, a do-it-yourselfer can complete the job with a few pointers. Here’s what you need to know.

What you’ll need

• ¼ -inch plywood
• Hammer
• Nails
• Tape measure
• Hand Saw
• Straight ruler
• Jig Saw
• Circular Saw

Step 1: Remove Old Baseboards

The baseboards will be replaced after you install the new subfloor, but in the meantime you will need to get the baseboards off the wall. Place them aside if you plan on reusing the same boards.

Step 2: Take Measurements

Measure the dimensions of the room you are installing the floor in. You will want to allow a 1/8-inch gap for natural expansion at each edge. Sketch the dimensions on a piece of paper as you measure. This will help you create a diagram to scale to use as a guide for the materials.

Step 3: Orientation

You need to figure out what way you will want to lay the flooring. Remember you need to use the least number of plywood sheets you can. So use your diagram to figure out which direction will give you the most coverage.

Step 4: Start Laying the Plywood

Start by laying one piece of plywood down on the old floor starting in the corner. Remember to leave your 1/8-inch for expansion. Nail this piece down using plenty of nails. They are cheap and will make the floor quieter once it’s finished.

Step 5: Lay Subsequent Pieces

You can now use your jig saw or circular saw to make cuts to the next few pieces and lay them out so they fit snugly. Lay them out in one row from wall to wall.

Once you have finished the first row you can move on to the second row. You will want to use a plywood piece that’s about half the length of the first one. This will create the seams that you need for the subfloor. It should look similar to what a bricklayer would do.

Step 6:  Keep Working Until It’s Finished

You will want to continue laying the flooring down in this manner until you have completed the entire area. Go back over and make sure all the pieces are nailed down securely and the seams are even.

You’ve just finished your new subfloor, and can now start working on laying the new floor down. Once the floor is done you can go back and reattach your baseboards and add any finishing touches.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Soften the Edge after Cutting Ceramic Tile

Cutting ceramic tiles can lead to sharp and serrated edges. These edges require smoothing for both safety reasons and aesthetic appeal. Here is how to soften the edge after cutting ceramic tiles.

What you’ll need

• Protective eye wear
• Work gloves
• Low grit sandpaper
• High grit sandpaper
• A power sander
• A low grit file
• A high grit file
• Cement/concrete slab
• Step 1 – Safety
• Put on your protective eye wear and work gloves.

Step 2 – Sanding the Edges by Hand

The type of sandpaper used to smooth the tiles will depend on the roughness of the edges. The rougher the tile edge, the more abrasiveness needed on the sandpaper. Begin with a sixty grit sandpaper. Use the sandpaper to dull the rough and serrated edges on the tile. Continue the sanding process with finer sandpaper, moving up to a four hundred grit level. The finest sandpaper should be used to smooth and polish the tile edges. 

Step 3 - Power Sanding the Edges

A rotary sander works well with curved tiles and a belt sander is best with flat edged tiles. Use a low grit sandpaper. Connect the paper to the power sander. Gently sand the tile edges. Stop to check the edges often to be sure you are not removing more tile than you would like. Once the sharp edges are dull, polish them with a four hundred grit paper. 

Step 4 – Filing the Edges

Use an abrasive file to begin filing the sharp edges of the tiles. Once the edges are dull, use a finer file to continue the process until the edges are smooth and polished.

Step 5 – Other Smoothing Techniques

Concrete and cement can be used to smooth straight edges if you are unable to locate any sandpaper or files. Hold the tile securely. Gently slide the tile edge along the concrete or cement. This process may not produce a polished texture to the edge, but it will reduce any dangerous sharp edges.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Soften the Edge After Cutting Ceramic Tile

A complex design or just less-than-perfect dimensions might lead you to having to cut your ceramic tiles to install them properly, whether it’s in a shower, as part of a kitchen backsplash, or on your floors. But while manual score-and-snap tile cutters make the task easy, cuts will leave behind sharp and serrated edges. These edges may require smoothing for both safety reasons and aesthetic appeal, such as when you need to set the end of a tile against a bathtub. Here is how to soften the rough areas on your cut ceramic tiles.

What you’ll need

• Protective eye wear
• Work gloves
• Sanding block
• Emery cloth
• Low-grit file
• High-grit file
• Cement/concrete slab

Step 1 – Stay Safe

Since the edges of cut tile can be very sharp and filing them can produce nasty slivers, you will need some heavy-duty work gloves to ensure that you don’t injure yourself. Dust coming off the tile could also irritate your eyes or lungs, so you should put on a face mask and safety glasses too.

Step 2 – Smooth the Edges by Hand

When sanding by hand, avoid using simply sandpaper in your hand as the sharp, rough edges can cause it to rip. Instead, use a sanding block with a low-grit side or some emery cloth. Both of these solutions are much more durable than straight sandpaper and are more likely to yield a better result. If your edges are particularly rough to start, use the emery cloth first as it is made to be able to smooth rough metals, and then move progressively to a high-grit edge on your sanding block for the final touches. 

Step 3 - File the Edges

You can also use an abrasive file to begin smoothing the sharp edges of the cut tiles. Just place your tile on a flat, firm surface, holding the end down with your non-dominant hand. Then, place the file on the edge, about an inch from the tip, and push downward in a single smooth stroke. Repeat this process until the edges are no longer sharp. Switch to a finer grit file to continue refining until the edges are smooth and polished. 

Step 4 – Try Other Smoothing Techniques

Concrete and cement can be used to smooth straight edges if you are unable to get ahold of the aforementioned materials. Hold the tile securely and gently slide the edge along the concrete or cement several times. Check between every few strokes to see if the edge is as smooth as you need This process may not produce a polished texture, but it will work in a pinch to reduce any dangerous sharp edges.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Prepare a Floor to Install Porcelain Tile

 Before preparing to install porcelain tile in the floor of a kitchen, living room, bathroom, or bedroom, make sure to have a subfloor that is in good condition. Porcelain tile can be a good substitute to other types of ceramic tiles, but when you install porcelain tile, like any other ceramic tile, be sure to work on a level subfloor. Here are the instructions for how to achieve that goal.

What You'll Need:

• Cement Backer Board
• Thinset Mortar
• Notched Trowel
• Drill
• Seam Tape for Cement Backer Boards
• Utility Knife
• Pencil
• Tape Measure
• Square
• Saw
• Patch and Leveler
• Level
• Roofing Nails or Screws

Step 1 - Prep the Subfloor

Check if the subfloor is ready for the installation of the backer boards by using a level to check for surface uniformity. If some portions of the subfloor are lower than the others, make it level by applying a patch. Apply the patch according to the manufacturer’s instructions and allow it to dry before checking again with a level. If there are baseboards or trim at the sides of the floor, remove them first and reinstall them after the backer boards and the tiles are all set.

Step 2 - Prep the Cement Backer Boards

Do not install porcelain tile directly to the subfloor unless it is already made of cement that has been made accurately level. Install cement backer boards first if the subfloor is made of other materials. First, measure the entire area to be tiled and use that measurement to determine how many backer boards are needed for the job. Purchase additional backer boards just in case (about ten percent of the estimated number of backer boards required). Cement backer boards are very useful because they provide a sturdy and stable foundation for the tiles.

Step 3 - Install the Cement Backer Boards

Prepare the thinset according to the manufacturer’s instructions and mix it well in a container. Scoop out a good amount of the mixture and transfer it to the notched trowel. Start working on the corners for easier installation. Begin the application of the mortar on a small portion of the floor enough to cover the area of one cement backer board. Make sure the thinset is applied evenly to ensure the backer boards will be installed uniformly.

Place one piece of backer board on top of the thinset mortar. Be sure to have its edges touch the walls. Press firmly until it is all set. Drill the screws on all four sides to secure it to the subfloor. Proceed with the other backer boards by following the same procedure. For the final pieces, measure the required dimensions and transfer the measurements on the boards. Cut them using a utility knife and install them in the same manner.

Step 4 - Finishing Touches

When everything is all set, cover the butt joints with seam tape. Cover the seam tapes with thinset mortar as well and allow it to dry. When the foundation is ready, install porcelain tile.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Soften the Edge After Cutting Ceramic Tile

Cutting ceramic tiles can lead to sharp and serrated edges. These edges require smoothing for both safety reasons and aesthetic appeal. Here is how to soften the edge after cutting ceramic tiles.

What you’ll need

• Protective eye wear
• Work gloves
• Low grit sandpaper
• High grit sandpaper
• A power sander
• A low grit file
• A high grit file
• Cement/concrete slab

Step 1 – Safety

Put on your protective eye wear and work gloves.

Step 2 – Sanding the Edges by Hand

The type of sandpaper used to smooth the tiles will depend on the roughness of the edges. The rougher the tile edge, the more abrasiveness needed on the sandpaper. Begin with a sixty grit sandpaper. Use the sandpaper to dull the rough and serrated edges on the tile. Continue the sanding process with finer sandpaper, moving up to a four hundred grit level. The finest sandpaper should be used to smooth and polish the tile edges. 

Step 3 - Power Sanding the Edges

A rotary sander works well with curved tiles and a belt sander is best with flat edged tiles. Use a low grit sandpaper. Connect the paper to the power sander. Gently sand the tile edges. Stop to check the edges often to be sure you are not removing more tile than you would like. Once the sharp edges are dull, polish them with a four hundred grit paper. 

Step 4 – Filing the Edges

Use an abrasive file to begin filing the sharp edges of the tiles. Once the edges are dull, use a finer file to continue the process until the edges are smooth and polished.

Step 5 – Other Smoothing Techniques

Concrete and cement can be used to smooth straight edges if you are unable to locate any sandpaper or files. Hold the tile securely. Gently slide the tile edge along the concrete or cement. This process may not produce a polished texture to the edge, but it will reduce any dangerous sharp edges.

 Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Middlesex Stone Floor Expert Shares Secrets of Travertine Floor Renovation

Our client had inherited this Travertine floor when purchasing in a lovely street in Walton-On-Thames, close by was the River Thames which runs all the way into London. The new owners were unhappy with the floor in that it did not look very clean, and they were keen to get this rectified. I arranged a site visit to survey the floor and see what could be done to restore its appearance. 

 

The floor itself was in good physical condition, however, it was apparent from the level of dirt ingrained in the stone that it had not been maintained very well by the previous owner. I carried out a small test clean which came out well and they could see straight away what the floor should look really like! They were happy with my renovation quote and we agreed a mutually convenient time where I could work in relation to the COVID guidelines.

 

Cleaning a Travertine Tiled Kitchen Floor

The Travertine floor was scrubbed using a mixture of Tile Doctor Pro Clean and Remove and Go. These are heavy duty cleaning products designed for use on tile and stone can be combined to form a powerful cleaning/stripping solution which is left to dwell on the floor surface. After a short while the solution was worked into the stone using a rotary machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad.

This cleaning recipe works extremely well breaking down dirt, stains, and grease in the stone. Following a machine scrub and a more manual hand scrub of the grout lines, we then pressure rinsed the soil away and then it was extracted using an industrial wet vacuum. In a couple of areas, it was necessary to repeat the process to ensure it was completely clean. Once we were satisfied that the stone was fresh and clean, the floor was left to dry off overnight, so it would be ready for sealing the following day.

 

Sealing a Travertine Tiled Kitchen Floor

After drying overnight, the floor was checked with a damp meter to make sure it was dry. Once reassured I started with the application of the fresh sealer to the floor using Tile Doctor Colour Grow Sealer which is a colour enhancing sealer that works from within by soaking into the pores of the stone. Several coats were applied allowing each one to dry before applying the next. This sealer does not provide a glossy finish, just a nice natural sheen. This brought back the contrast and natural colours in the stone, whilst adding protection to stone for many years to come.

 

The client was very happy with the work we carried out, the floor had come up much better than they had expected, and it really made a difference to the lovely kitchen space. The floor looked like new. I recommended the regular use of Tile Doctor Stone Soap for future cleaning which will keep the floor in great condition and ensure the longevity of the newly applied sealant.

Source: Travertine Floor Maintenance Service in Walton-On-Thames, Middlesex

Non Sanded vs. Sanded Grout: Which to Use?

Sanded grout is just one of the two main types of grout available for construction use. Home builders use grout to secure the joints between tiles of various sorts. Laying the right grout with the right tiles needs careful consideration, depending on the type of project.

Sanded Grout
Sand can be added to all grout to supplement the strength in the tile joint. The amount of sand added depends on what sort of tiles you are using. If the tile joints are equal to or larger than 1/8th inch, sand should be used to increase the joint strength.

Ceramic tiles
Ceramic tile grout needs less or no sand at all. If the joint is a thin joint between the set tiles and no greater than 1/8th inch, then there is less reason to use sanded grout. Non-sanded grout is usually Portland cement based. It also contains colored pigments and water retardant additives.

Conclusion
When you decide which grout to use, you should consider the size of the joints, the type of the tile, and the base upon which the tiles will be laid, for example, whether you are laying tiles on the floor or they are being set onto a wall.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com