How to Restore Colour and Structure to Tired Flagstone Flooring

A customer from Ulverston was nearing the end of a house refurbishment and got in touch regarding the renovation of a Flagstone floor. A lot of contractors had been through the property and the stone was not looking its best. Happy to assist I arranged to visit the property and provide advice on its restoration.

I went over to survey the floor and could see it was suffering from heavy ground-in soiling. The stone had lost its colour and now looked dull and lifeless; the grout was also heavily soiled with ingrained dirt. We discussed the floor in detail and I recommended a deep clean to remove all the dirt and then applying a sealer to restore colour to the stone and prevent ingrained dirt.

After measuring up I worked out a detailed quote and emailed it across to the customer for their review. Happy with quote I got the go ahead to restore the floor and agreed a date.

Deep Cleaning a Tired Flagstone Floor

To get the stone clean it was sprayed with a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean and this was left to soak in for a good fifteen minutes to give it time to start breaking down the ingrained dirt. The floor was then scrubbed with a rotary machine fitted with a coarse carborundum brush which lifts the dirt out of the stone and grout. The soiling was then rinsed off the floor and extracted with a wet vacuum.

To further clean the Flagstones and strip off old sealers and remaining surface residues the floor was further treated with a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go. This time the solution was scrubbed into the stone using a coarse 200-grit diamond burnishing pad to refine the appearance of the stone.

After rinsing and extracting again the stone was given an acid rinse using Tile Doctor Acid Gel. This neutralises the stone after the use of alkaline cleaners and further cleans the stone to remove grout smears and old mineral deposits to further refine the surface, improving clarity and tone within the stone.

After a final review of the stone to spot clean any stubborn areas, it was given another rinse and dried as much as possible using the wet vacuum.

Sealing a Flagstone Floor

The floor was left to dry out overnight and work resumed the next day to finish the stone with the application of a sealer. First however the floor was checked for moisture, applying sealer to damp stone can result in a patchy appearance so best avoided.

The results were fine so work started to apply the first of what would be two coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow. This sealer is an impregnator that soaks in the stone adding protection from within, this ensures dirt remains on the surface where it can be easily cleaned away. Another feature of Colour Grow, as its name suggests, is to enhance and deepen the colour and features in the stone.

 

Once complete the flagstones were restored to a rich, natural finish with improved colour depth and a far more uniform appearance. The surface is now protected and significantly easier to maintain.

 

For aftercare I recommended Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner which will clean the floor without impacting the sealer which can be a problem with many of the stronger products you find in supermarkets.

Source: Flagstone Floor Cleaning and Renovation Services in Ulverston Cumbria

Cleaning Aggregate Flooring: Tips and Mistakes to Avoid

 Aggregate flooring can look good for years, even decades, if you know how to care for it correctly. Aggregate is made from a mixture of epoxy resin and small stones or pebbles. Glass or quartz chips can also be used instead of stones. The finish of aggregate flooring is bumpy, since the surface of the stones is not flat, although some companies can pour another layer of resin over the floor or grind it for a smooth finish. Long lasting and durable, not much can go wrong when cleaning it.

Tips for Cleaning

1. Aggregate floors are made with a plastic mix, epoxy resin, and are also sealed. Treating the flooring as a plastic is the best way to go about cleaning it.
2. First, sweep with a stiff broom to remove dust and dirt. Fill a mop bucket with boiling hot water. Add a dash of mild detergent. Mop floor in a figure eight motion. Using this motion makes it easier to cover large areas, and also picks up extra particles more effectively. Discard water and then rinse the mop. Refill the bucket with boiling hot water only. Give the floor another mopping. Dry the floor with towels.
3. Resealing every five years is recommended to keep your floors looking their best.

Mistakes to Avoid

1. Do not use harsh chemicals or abrasives on your aggregate floor. If a product can damage plastic, then it can eat into the resin.
2. Metal and hard plastic scourers should not be used on aggregate floors that are coated with epoxy resin.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Paint a Concrete Floor

Putting a fresh coat of paint on an old concrete floor can cover over stains and scuffs quite well. If you are planning on painting concrete floors then you must remember that concrete is naturally porous.

What You'll Need:

• Plastic sheet
• Tape
• Tri sodium phosphate
• Vacuum cleaner
• Sponge mop
• Scrub brushes
• Primer
• Warm water
• Concrete patch
• Concrete sealer
• Paint roller
• Paint roller trays
• Paint brushes
• Cloths

Step 1 - Remove Existing Paint

If you have a previously painted concrete floor then you will need to remove the existing paint. This can be done with a scraper. It is important to remove all of the old paint so it allows the new paint to settle in as well as not show through onto the new layer.

Step 2 - Patch Concrete

If the concrete floor has any nicks or cracks in it then you should apply a concrete patch to these locations. Concrete patch can be found in any home or hardware store.

Step 3 - Clean Floor

Use tri sodium phosphate and warm water and a scrub brush to clean any grease stains on the floor. These can cause problems with the paint bonding to the surface so it is extremely important you remove all loose oil. Allow the floor to dry completely before continuing. The time needed for this will depend on the climate but 24 to 36 hours is average.

Step 4 - Tape Around

After you have cleaned the floor, make sure you line the area with tape. It is important to match the tape up to the floor to ensure it doesn’t make marks on the walls or baseboard.

Step 5 - Apply the Sealer

Poor some concrete sealer into a paint roller pan. Use a paint roller to apply the sealer over the entire area of concrete you are planning to paint. It is not necessary with many paints to apply a sealer but sealing the concrete will help to add an additional layer of protection from both the paint and future spills which could potentially stain the concrete.
When applying the sealer, move the roller in even, slow motions. Do not place a lot of sealer down. Excess sealer may bubble up and create problems. A thin coat of sealer is all that is necessary. Use a brush to get the outer perimeter and corners. Allow the sealer to dry for 24 to 36 hours before proceeding.

Step 6 - Priming the Floor

If the paint you are using to paint your concrete floor contains a primer then you can apply it directly. If it does not then you will need to apply a coat of primer. The primer can be added with a standard roller and brush. You should use smooth even motions and keep the layer thin but ensure it fully coats the floor. Allow the primer to dry for 24-36 hours.

Step 7 - Paint the Floor

Pour the paint into a roller pan. Use a roller and brush to paint the entire floor. Try to do it in smaller sections. When painting, make sure that the paint goes on thinly but covers completely. Do not attempt to finish the entire floor in one quote by putting a thick layer on. Allow the floor to dry and apply a second coat of paint and allow to dry for 24 hours.

Step 8 - Seal the Floor

After you add the second coat of paint you can add a top layer of sealant. This will help the paint to remain intact and make cleanups a lot easier.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com