Victorian Tiled Floor Cleaning

Southport is an interesting seaside town with many Victorian terraced properties so it came as no surprise when I was asked to maintain a Victorian Tiled hallway in the town.

Cleaning a Victorian Floor Tiles

The floor was in good condition for its age and just in need of a clean and re-seal to keep it looking good, hallway area’s as you can imagine get more footfall than other parts of the house so are more likely to need a regular deep clean.


To get the floor clean and remove any remaining sealer the floor was sprayed with Tile Doctor Remove and Go which was left to soak into the tile for five minutes before being scrubbed in using a rotary machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad. The next step was to wash off the residue with water which was then removed using a wet vacuum. Following this the tiles were given a rinse in Tile Doctor Grout Clean-up which is an acid based product that can remove grout smears and mineral deposits, it also improves the ability of the sealer to bond with the tile. Last step before sealing was to give the floor a thorough wash down with clean water, which is designed to remove any trace of cleaning products before sealing; the water was removed with the wet vacuum and then left to dry overnight.

Sealing the Victorian Tiled Floor

The next day I returned and checked the floor for dampness using a Damp Meter which indicated the floor was dry and ready for sealing. For Victorian Floor tiles I recommend several coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which provides a low sheen finish whilst offering great stain protection.







Source: Stone and Tile Cleaning Advice

Restoring the Polished Appearance of Marble

This was a Marble tiled floor installed in the kitchen of a house in Olney, Bedfordshire which had been scratched in places and was now overdue for some TLC.

Cleaning Marble Tile and Grout

The first job was to give the floor a general clean using a dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which was left to dwell on the Tile and Grout for a short while before being worked in with a rotary machine fitted with a scrubbing pad and a stiff hand brushes along the grout lines. The floor was then washed down with clean water to remove the soiled cleaning solution with the liquids being removed using a wet vacuum.

Burnishing and Polishing Marble Tile

To restore the original finish and remove the scratches the floor needed to be cut back using a set of diamond encrusted burnishing pads. The pads come in a set of four and you start with the coarse pad and a little water and then move on to the Medium, Fine and Very fine pads at which point the surface looks immaculate and polished. The next task was to protect the floor and bring up the appearance even further by applying Tile Doctor Shine Powder which is polished into the floor using a buffing pad; the powder add a really deep finish to the appearance of the Marble and hardens on the surface to provide durable surface protection.


Hopefully you can appreciate the difference in the Marble from the photographs; it was a tricky subject to capture due to the lighting; however I can tell you the customer was amazed by the finish.




Source: Marble Cleaning and Polishing Advice

How to Mix and Apply Sanded Grout

Sanded grout is a special type of grout that has small particles of silica sand in it to make it a lot stronger than regular grout. Grouting ceramic tiles may do well with regular grout, but there are some instances that require the use of stronger and more durable sanded grout. This type of grout is best to use in between tile slates, glass blocks, or any other material that has wider spaces in between. If regular grout were to be used in wide areas in need of grout, the grout will simply crack afterwards because of shrinkage. Therefore, it is important to use sanded grout in these instances. Below is a set of instructions on how to mix and apply sanded grout properly.

What you'll need

1. Bucket
2. Sanded Grout
3. Rubber Float
4. Grouting Sponge
5. Grout Mixing Knife
6. Water

Step 1 – Mixing the Sanded Grout

The grout should match the color of the tile in order to create a good blend. For glass blocks, use white color. Open a bag of sanded grout and pour half of its contents into the bucket. The reason for not pouring all of the grout is to have ready supply of grout in case too much water is added into the mix. Put a small amount of water into the bucket sufficient enough to make a pasty mixture. To get the right grout consistency, follow the instructions carefully on the grout powder bag. Use a mixing knife to mix the water with the grout powder. Make sure that all the grout is made wet. Scrape the sides of the bucket to make sure. If the mix is too watery, add more grout until a consistent mixture is made.

Step 2 – Applying the Grout

Make sure that the tiles or blocks to be grouted are clean enough before applying the grout. Scoop a good amount of grout and spread it on the sides of the tiles or glass blocks. If the grout is of good consistency, it will not fall down easily when spread onto a wall. Do not put too much grout on the wall or the floor at once. Work on a portion of the floor or the wall one area at a time.

Wet the rubber float to make it easy to use. Wipe off the excess water. Use the float to go across the tiles or the blocks while pressing firmly. This motion will drive the excess grout into the large spaces in between the tiling materials.

Wet the sponge and squeeze off all the excess water. Use the sponge to go over the tiles or blocks as lightly as possible. This will remove the excess grout on the surface of the tiling materials. Rinse the sponge, squeeze off the water and go over the tiles or blocks all over again until most or all of the excess grout is removed from the surfaces. Continue in this manner until all spaces are grouted. Afterwards, allow the grout to cure.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Cleaning Ceramic Tile Floors in Commercial Bathrooms

If you work in the janitorial field and frequently find yourself cleaning ceramic tile floors in commercial bathrooms, there are a number of tips you should keep in mind to ensure that the floors get the most out of your cleanings. Below are the best ways to keep the ceramic tile floors found in commercial bathrooms dirt-free.

Clean the Floors Every Few Days

Depending on how much traffic cycles through a particular commercial bathroom, you may have to engage in cleaning the ceramic tile floors as frequently as once every day or as infrequently as once every week. For a commercial bathroom that serves as host to an average amount of daily traffic, cleaning the floors once every two or three days should suffice. While ceramic tile floors are quite resilient, excessive dirt buildup and stains are particularly noticeable on this type of flooring.

Use Basic Cleaning Tools

One of the great things about cleaning ceramic tiles floors is that you don't have to spend top dollar on pricey commercial cleaning products. In fact, you are strongly advised against the use of such products, as the bleach and assorted chemicals found therein can damage ceramic tile floors with repeated use. Instead, a mixture of warm water and liquid soap should suit your needs perfectly. Alternatively, if the floor has come under fire from mold or mildew, use a mixture of vinegar and warm water. Also, while the bulk of the flooring should be scrubbed with a mop, you will need to use a toothbrush or soft-bristled scrub brush to purge any filth from the surrounding grout.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Dealing with Dirty Quarry floors

The customer called me in to resolve a problem in at a beautiful holiday cottage in Cockermouth which had an old Quarry tiled floor installed which she had tried to make shine but had ended up turning it pink in places

Cleaning Quarry Floor Tiles

On my arrival I spent time protecting the kitchen units and adjacent wooden floor and then started on removing the old sealer with Tile doctor Remove and Go; I sprayed it on working in small areas and working it into the tile with a brush making sure to scrub it in well, the resultant soiled solution was washed off with clean water the and then removed using a wet vacuum. After finishing with the tile I moved onto the grout joints using the same process to make sure they were all clean and then the floor was given a good rinse to neutralise the floor before sealing. Again a wet vacuum was used to remove any liquids from the floor and it was then left to dry fully overnight.

Sealing Quarry Floor Tiles

The next day I returned to the cottage and after verifying the floor was dry with a damp tester it was sealed with four coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which provides on-going protection as well as adding a nice shine to the tile.


This job took me two days and whilst I was there I took the time to explain how to maintain the floor going forward and the importance of using a Neutral Cleaner to extend the life of the sealer. Certainly the customer was very happy with the results and left the following message our feedback system: “Absolutely delighted the tiles were very marked in places but Heidi has managed to get them off and the tiles are back to their true colour which I hoped they would be. Heidi explained step by step the procedure and I am very pleased with the result Thank you very much for the time spent and I would recommend Heidi -- Veronica”



Source: Quarry tile cleaning tips

How to Repair a Hole in Ceramic Bathroom Tile

The ceramic bathroom tile is considered to be a durable and long lasting finishing material. Bathroom accessories and fixtures are usually drilled on previously untouched surfaces, therefore creating unsightly holes that ruin the overall look of the finish. It is easy to repair a hole in a ceramic bathroom tile and all you need are simple materials that can be purchased at any hardware store. Auto body repair filler is the preferred material of choice in covering holes in ceramic bathroom tiles. You can also use silicon caulk or pre-mixed grout to cover the holes on ceramic tiles.

What you'll need
Auto body repair filler
Silicone caulk and caulk gun
Pre-mixed grout
Putty knife
Sandpaper

Sponge

Step 1 – Preparation

Inspect the holes and remove any debris that may hinder the bond between the filler of choice and tiles. Use a vacuum cleaner or pressurized air to remove any dirt that may remain inside the holes.

Step 2 - Apply the Filler of Choice

When deciding to use auto body repair filler, it would be best to follow the instructions stated on the packaging. Mix the resin with the hardener until achieving a smooth, even consistency and apply immediately using a putty knife. You may also use pre-mixed auto body repair filler to take off the guesswork in the mixing process. Fill the holes and press firmly with the putty knife to ensure the holes are completely filled. Let dry for a few minutes until a rubbery consistency is achieved. Scrape off excess material using a putty knife or razorblade. You may need to sand the area to achieve a smooth consistency.

When using silicone caulk, it would be best to use a caulk that is of the same color as the tile. Attach the cartridge to the caulk gun and press the trigger firmly to dispense the caulk and fill the holes on ceramic tiles. Press on the hole firmly with a putty knife and wipe off excess caulk using a wet sponge. Let dry.

The same procedure applies when using pre-mixed tile grout. Similar to silicone caulk, you can buy pre-mixed grout in the same color as that of the ceramic bathroom tile. Fill the hole with grout with a putty knife and wipe off any excess with a wet sponge.

Step 3 – Clean Up

Remember that auto body repair filler can prove extremely difficult to remove when completely dry. Sanding the surface is the only way to remove any excess filler.

Silicone caulk and pre-mixed grout should be immediately removed on unaffected surfaces. Wipe clean with a wet sponge before the mixture gets a chance to dry completely.

Bathroom fixtures and accessories that come with suction cups will help prevent the accumulation of holes in your ceramic bathroom tiles. Purchase bathroom accessories that negate the use of screws and drills during installation. There are a lot of available bathroom accessories that use suction-type devices to facilitate installation. 

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Sand Ceramic Tiles

There aren’t many instances when you would need to sand ceramic tiles. It’s a job that needs to be carefully done as it’s all too easy to remove the finish of the tile, which is part of its charm. About the only time you’d consider sanding ceramic tile would be if you were going to repaint it; sanding will help paint adhere to the surface. Under any other circumstances you’d remove the tiles and replace them.

What you'll need
Gloves
Sandpaper
Drop cloth
Tack cloth
Soap and water
Sponge
Cleaner

Orbital sander

Step 1 - Cleaning

Before starting to sand ceramic tiles, they have to be completely clean. Begin by using a cleaner on them with a soft scrubber if there are marks that won’t remove easily. If the tiles haven’t been cleaned for a long time this could involve plenty of work. Once all the marks are off the tile, wash with soap and water and leave them to dry.

Step 2 - Sanding

If there are areas you don’t want to sand you should use masking tape and cardboard to ensure they’re not accidentally sanded. Similarly, put masking tape at the edge of the tile area where it meets the wall. Put a drop cloth under the area you’ll be sanding to catch much of the dust; this will make the clean up easier when you finish.

Use an orbital sander and sandpaper with a fine grit. 220 grit is recommended to sand ceramic tiles. This will take the glaze off the tile but still leave the surface smooth. The sanding needs to be a slow and careful process. The trick is to ensure that all the glaze is removed but none of the finish. Just work on a small area at a time, cleaning it often to see what progress has been made. Don’t push too hard with the sander, let it do the work for you. If you miss some small areas you can go back over them later, moving the sander very lightly. Be prepared to change sanding discs frequently so the sandpaper can be most effective.

Step 3 - Checking

Whenever you stop to check progress, you need to clear the dust off the tiles. A tack cloth is the very best way to do this. It will allow you to see if there is glaze still left without dampening the tiles.

Step 4 - Washing

When you believe you’ve finished sanding the ceramic tiles you need to wash them down to take off the rest of the dust. Use soap and water and a sponge for this. Wash the grout areas too, as this is where dust will gather. Give the tiles ample time to dry before you inspect them again. If there are any tiny areas with glaze that you missed, you should sand the ceramic tile by hand to remove the last pieces of glaze. Again, don’t press too hard, and keep checking to be certain you’re not going beyond the glaze.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Dealing with White marks on Terracotta tiles

At first glance and this Terracotta tiled floor at a house in the village of Great Bourton looks in good condition, but on closer inspection there were visible white marks where there had been a water leak in previous years and the salts had come through the tiles. The customer also told me she had to wax the floor on a regular basis and was looking for a seal where she didn't have to do this.

Cleaning Terracotta Tile

My first task was to protect all the skirting and kickboards with protective tape. I then mixed Tile Doctor Pro Clean with water and spread it over a section of the floor and then left it to dwell for a few minutes. The solution was then scrubbed in with a black pad on a 17inch rotary floor scrubbing machine. I then used a wet vacuum to remove the slurry and rinsed the floor with water. This process was repeated this process until the whole floor was scrubbed and rinsed with any stubborn areas re-treated. To remove the white salts from the Terracotta I applied Tile Doctor Grout Clean Up over the floor which was scrubbed in and then removed using the wet vacuum. The whole floor was then thoroughly rinsed with water and the wet vacuum used to suck up the water until it the surface was dry. The photograph below shows the terracotta floor at this stage with the floor clean and stripped back before re-sealing. I left the floor a couple of days at this point to allow it fully dry before applying the sealer.

 

Sealing Terracotta Tile

On my return I checked the floor had dried and then applied two coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is an impregnating seal that enhances the natural colour of terracotta, I then added five coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which is a topical sealer giving it the nice finish the customer required. The customer was really pleased with the results and also relieved that she would not have to keep waxing the floor; whilst I was there I demonstrated how to clean the floor using Tile Doctor Neutral cleaner which unlike acidic cleaners will not harm the sealer.

The floor looks much better and certainly my customer thought so and left the following feedback on the system. Very pleasant young man and he has done a great job. The kitchen floor is transformed. Thank you Barry!




Source: Terracotta tile problems resolved

10 Factors in Selecting Tiles for Flooring

Homeowners and builders have several different options to consider in selecting tiles for flooring. Tiles are attractive, durable options to consider. Though tiles are most commonly used in the kitchen or bathroom, they are also great options to consider in other parts of the house. Before you select tiles for flooring, there are several factors you must consider.

1 – Material

Some of the most popular tile materials are wood, laminate, ceramic, brick, marble, granite, slate, porcelain, mosaic and vinyl. All these materials are available in many colors and price ranges.

2 – Durability

While ceramic, brick and vinyl are highly resistant to wear and tear, some other options such as granite and marble may be prone to cracks and staining. Before you select a tile, carefully consider the foot traffic in the intended area of installation.

3 – Resistance to Water

In areas such as the kitchen and bathroom, some of the better options for tiles are materials such as marble, granite, mosaic or ceramic. However, you must also remember that the smooth finish on marble and granite can increase the chances slipping. Hardwood and laminate are not good choices for the kitchen or bathroom.

4 – Indoor or Outdoor Use

Some of the best tiles for outdoor use include terracotta, clay and brick. Most other tile materials can be adversely affected by the elements if they are installed outdoors.

5 – Ease of Maintenance

The texture of the tile and the number of grooves on the material have a direct relation with the amount of dirt the tiles will accumulate. You must also consider the compatible cleaners for the tile. Stone tiles and other expensive options require special cleaners that will not erode the sealant or damage the surface.

6 – Resistance to Chemicals

If you plan to install the tiles in a commercial environment or in an area where they may be subject to abrasive materials or chemicals, you must select a hardy tile, such as slate.

7 – Attractiveness

Tiles are available in a variety of finishes ranging from glossy and semi glossy to dull. Some of the tiles that are most sought after for their attractiveness include marble, granite and hardwood. Mosaic tiles are also attractive and provide a range of color options.

8 – Size and Shape of Tiles

Square or rectangular tiles are no longer the standard. Tiles are available in every shape imaginable. Some interesting options include hexagonal, octagonal, circular, triangular and concave shapes. Keep in mind the final look you want to achieve. Choose darker colors for high traffic areas that are prone to more dirt.

9 – Room of Installation

Higher traffic areas such as the living room, family room and kitchen require tough tiles that will last for long. Kids’ playrooms require tiles that will stand up to abrasion and heavy use as well. Bedrooms can be suitable for stone or wood tiles that will require delicate care.

10 – Exposure to Sunlight

Consider the amount of sunlight that streams into the room at different times of day. Some tiles are equipped with ultraviolet proof coatings that provide more protection. Synthetic materials such as concrete and vinyl offer more sunlight resistance.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Lay Tile in a Non-Square Room

If you can lay tile in a regular room, you should also be able to lay it in a non-square room. While the process may be a little bit more involved, the same basic principles apply. Here are the basics of how to effectively lay tile in a non-square room.

What you'll need
Tile
Adhesive
Notched trowel
Wet saw
Grout
Grout float
Bucket
Water
Tile spacers
Tape measure

Step 1--Measure the Room

In order to install the tile in this room, you are going to have to know how much tile to purchase. To measure this room, you need to break it up into rectangles. If you have a curved or angled wall, you need to act as if the curve or angle were not there and pretend that it is a rectangle. Multiply the length and the width of the rectangles together to get the square footage. You will then want to add approximately 10 percent to that number so that you can have enough for waste.

Step 2--Determine Starting Point

With a non-square room, you are not going to be able to start along the wall in most cases. You will need to try to determine the center point of the room. This way, you can work out towards the wall and the pieces will fall as they should. When you get to the wall, you can simply cut the pieces to fit. This is going to create a professional look in your room. Do your best to determine where the center of each wall is with your tape measure. Then snap a chalk line in both directions so that they will intersect in the center of the room. This will give you a place to start and will make the tile align properly in the room.

Step 3--Lay the Tile

Apply some of the tile adhesive to the floor in the corner of the chalk lines with your trowel. Then take one of your tiles and press it down firmly into the adhesive. Put tile spacers on the corners of the first tile. Take a second tile and then place it directly next to the first tile using the spacers as a guide. Place tile spacers around the second tile and then place a third tile up against it. Continue doing this until you get to the wall.

Step 4--Cutting the Tile

You will then need to make cuts on the tiles so that they will fit in place. If you are up against an angled wall, this can be a little more difficult. You will want to use a wet saw to make the most accurate cuts on the tile. Take your time and make a smooth cut. Place the cut pieces into place.

Step 5--Grout

Allow the tile to dry overnight. Then you can apply the grout. Use your grout float to apply the grout to the grout joints. After you have filled the joints, use a sponge to clean the tile.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Finishing Ceramic Tile Floors: 2 Mistakes to Avoid

When finishing your ceramic tile floors there are at least 2 mistakes that you should look to avoid. These 2 mistakes are unavoidable if you pay close attention to the application process when finishing the flooring in order to complete the job in as professional manner as possible.

Using the Incorrect Type of Finish

The first mistake when finishing your ceramic is applying the incorrect type of finish on your ceramic tile floor. This mistake can be easily avoided by selecting the correct type of floor finish for your ceramic tile. This will ensure that the finish that you are looking for is correct and that the ceramic floor tile does not become damaged as a result of the application of the incorrect finish.

Applying Too Much Finish to the Ceramic Tile

The second mistake that you should avoid when finishing your ceramic tile floor is not to apply too much finish to the ceramic tile. Applying too much tile will cause the tile to look different from the other tiles that are being finished. This will affect the overall look of your ceramic tile and give it a very unprofessional look upon installation. 

Source: www.DoItYourself.com