Tuesday, September 30, 2014

Maintaining Mosaic Marble Tiled Shower Installation

This Marble mosaic tiled shower cubicle in Richmond, Surrey was in need of a good clean, re-seal and re-silicone. Moisture had penetrated the old sealer and left mould and mildew in the pores of the tiles. This is quite a common problem in the modern insulated homes we live in today which invariably have in-sufficient ventilation. The silicone sealant around the base of the shower had also perished allowing water in behind the tiles around the base.

Marble Mosaic Shower Tile Refresh Richmond Before

Cleaning Marble Mosaic Tiles and Grout

We first stripped away all of the old silicone and proceeded to clean the tile and grout by scrubbing in a dilution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go, which is a strong coatings remover that shifts just about anything but is also safe to use on tile, stone and grout. This did the trick and resulted in what was left of the old sealer being removed and had the added bonus of cleaning the grime away from the Marble tiles.

Sealing Marble Mosaic Tiles

The bathroom was allowed to dry out for a period of 2 days so as not to trap any moisture behind the new sealer. Then once dry we applied two coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is a solvent based sealer that reaches deep into the pores of the stone preventing other contaminates from becoming ingrained in the tile. The final step was to applying a new silicone sealant to the joints and as you can see from the pictures the Marble tiles responded very well to the process and the shower now looks much fresher if not a new installation.

Marble Mosaic Shower Tile Refresh Richmond After




Source: Expert Marble tile maintenance site

Sunday, September 28, 2014

What Are the Drawbacks of Using a Self Leveling Compound

self leveling compound is ideal in smoothing out un-leveled wood floors and concrete floors. Concrete floors may have bumps, especially if poured incorrectly; wood floors often have problems with dips and bumps. It is important that the floor is leveled and smoothed when planning to do a ceramic floor tiling.  When a floor that is to be placed with ceramic tile is uneven, there is a greater chance that the floor tiles will crack and not last over time; a self leveling compound will prevent this, although it's not always a perfect solution.

Disadvantages

A self leveling compound can dry extremely fast. You may only have about 20 minutes to mix, pour and even out the self leveling compound. Therefore it's important for a person to have all the tools and materials needed in mixing, pouring and spreading the self leveling compound.
Self leveling compounds do not provide stability on the subfloor or the surface where the tiles are to be placed. If the wood subfloor loosens, the self leveling compound may break up, causing the loosening and eventual damage of the ceramic floor tiles. It is therefore important that the stability of the subfloor should be ensured first, before applying any self leveling compound on it.
Another disadvantage of using a self leveling compound is that it does not stick well to a subfloor with dust and grime. The subfloor needs to be cleaned from dust and grime before a self leveling compound is applied; it needs to be spotless.

Preparation Concerns

Self leveling compound needs to be carefully mixed to the right consistency before it's poured in the subfloor. The self leveling compound does not even itself out, so using a squeegee or trowel is essential in smoothing it out. Again, since there's only about 10 to 20 minutes before the self leveling compound dries out, you have to move quickly to spread and even out the mixture.
Problems
A self leveling compound can also break up easily when it's mixed with extra water. Never try to put additional water in the self leveling compound mixture to try to loosen it up. Instead, focus on quickly working and spreading the material to the subfloor surface.
A self leveling compound will be set after half an hour or so. In two to four hours, the surface that was applied with self leveling compound can be walked on. Ceramic floor tiles, however, can be used 24 hours after the self leveling compound was put on the subfloor.
Self leveling compounds can also remain glued on tools like the trowel and the bucket. It's important to immediately wash the tools used in applying and smoothing out the self leveling compound, otherwise these tools will permanently have the compound affixed to them.

Health Hazards

Before using a self leveling compound, read the directions first. Always ensure that safety procedures are followed while working with the it. Breathing in dust that comes from the application of the self leveling compound can pose health risks.
You should know the drawbacks of using a self leveling compound. Knowing these will ensure that you are better prepared when handling and using it.


Thursday, September 25, 2014

Maintaining Marble Floor Tiles

This polished Marble tiled floor was installed in a house in the old market town of Petersfield. The tile and grout was in good condition but like all polished stone floors they will go dull after a period of time and require burnishing and polishing to restore shine.

Marble Tiled Floor Petersfield Begin Marble Tiled Floor Petersfield Begin

Cleaning Marble Floor Tiles

We gave the floor a quick sweep and wash down with a dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean partly to ensure any surface grit etc. was removed but also so we could get a stiff grout brush in along the grout lines and give them a clean. Once done the floor was rinsed down with water which was removed with a wet vacuum, once done we moved straight onto burnishing the floor to restore the polish. Burnishing requires the application of a little water so there was no need to wait for it to dry. Burnishing requires the application of four different diamond encrusted graded pads in sequence working from coarse which removed old sealers and dirt through to medium, fine and super fine pads which build up the polish on the floor. The floor requires a rinse in-between each pad to remove any slurry and water is extracted from the floor using the wet vacuum, after the super fine pad we removed as much water from the floor as possible and left it to dry overnight ready for sealing the next day.

Sealing Marble Floor Tiles

On our return the next day we made sure the floor was dry with the use of a damp meter and once we were happy we sealed the Marble tiles using two coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is an impregnating sealer the occupied the pores in the tile to prevent other contaminates soaking into the tile. It also does a nice job of lifting the natural colours in the stone and enhancing the look of the tile.

Marble Tiled Floor Petersfield Finished Marble Tiled Floor Petersfield Finished




Source: Expert Marble Maintenance Advice

Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Maintaining Limestone Floor Tiles

This Limestone tiled floor was installed in the kitchen of a house in the town Market Harborough, Leicestershire. The tiles were quite dirty and had become ingrained with dirt which hopefully you can see from the photograph below.

Limestone Tiled Floor Before Cleaning Market Harborough

Stripping the Limestone Tiled Floor

Before commencing cleaning we remove the kick boards from the kitchen units and applied a solution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go which was left to dwell on the tile for twenty minutes before being worked in with a rotary machine fitted with a scrubbing black pad. We also used Remove and Go along the grout lines but scrubbed them using a stiff grout brush by hand to get them clean. When we were happy with the results the soiled cleaning solution was removed with a wet vacuum and the floor rinsed with clean water to remove any trace of cleaning product before sealing.

Sealing the Limestone Floor

The floor was left to dry overnight and we came back the next day to seal the tiles checking first that the floor had dried out. To customer wanted a matt appearance so to seal the tiles a couple of coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow was applied, Colour Grow is an impregnating sealer that soaks into the pores of the stone occupying them so other contaminates can’t become ingrained in the stone, it also lifts the natural colours in the Limestone tiles as well. Once the sealer had dried I then finished it all off with a quick buff using a white buffing pad.

Limestone Tiled Floor After Cleaning Market Harborough




Source: Expert Limestone maintenance advice

Monday, September 22, 2014

How to Install Adjustable Joist Hangers

If you plan on building your own floor or deck, you will need to use joist hangers to increase the amount of weight your project can support. Joist hangers are pieces of metal used to connect outer ledger beams to the parallel boards that support your floor or deck. However, if you must install joist hangers, you should consider selecting adjustable ones. Adjustable joist hangers can allow your joists to be adjusted up and down after they are attached, unlike standard joist hangers that are one piece, and permanent. What follows should give you everything you need to know about installing adjustable joist hangers.

What You'll Need
  • adjustable joist hangers
  • nails
  • hammer
  • ledger board
  • joists
  • extra lumber


Step 1 - Measurement

The first step to installing an adjustable joist hanger is figuring out exactly where to put it. While your joist hanger is adjustable, precise measurements are important. Start from the corner of your ledger board and measure it out in 16 inch intervals. Mark each spot with your pencil.
If you will be installing adjustable joist hangers on multiple ledger boards, you can save yourself a lot of time by doing your measurements on a piece of scrap lumber and using it to quickly find the measurements for all of your ledger boards one at a time.

Step 2 - Placement

Once you have measured and marked your ledger board or boards, place a joist hanger at one of the spots you have marked. Line up the top of the joist hanger with the top of the ledger board—do not rely on the adjustability of the joist hanger. Hold the adjustable joist hanger tightly so it is placed firmly against the ledger board.
If your adjustable joist hanger has speed prongs—small attached fasteners for temporary holding while you nail—hammer them in now. Obviously, this is not enough to hold your adjustable joist hanger, but it will make the next step easier.

Step 3 - Nails

Choose the nails you use for your project carefully, as they can have many important effects on the quality of your work. If you are working on an outdoor project, such as a deck, use hot-dipped galvanized nails. For floors or any other indoor projects, use common nails. Whichever type of nails you use, be sure to use the largest ones that are acceptable to use with your particular adjustable joist hangers. The most common type use 16d nails, but this may vary.
Attach your joist hanger to your ledger board with your hammer and carefully selected nails. Use a nail on every nail hole or your adjustable joist hanger will not be as strong as it can possibly be.

Step 4 - Joist

Now you are ready to actually attach your joist. Insert the joist into the joist hanger, making sure it is placed correctly and tightly. Use short nails—1 1/2 inch ones are best—as you do not want them to go all the way through your joist.
If need be, now or later, you can adjust your joist up and down by using the screw mechanism.



Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Sunday, September 21, 2014

How Do Joist Hangers Strengthen a Floor?

Joist hangers strengthen a floor because without them, there would be no floor to support. Floor joists are the lengths of 2-by-6-, 2-by-8- or 2-by-10-inch lumber. They run horizontally and provide the support for subflooring, flooring and everything that rest atop the floor. In other words, they provide support for weight that is focused solely downward. Floor joist hangers, in turn, support and enable floor joists to stay in place. 

Joist hangers are metal fixtures that attach to horizontal beams and rims of a building’s frame. They provide a cradle for the joist to fit into. Each joist is supported by a hanger at either end. The joist hangers themselves are affixed to a beam or rim joist with tico nails, extra-wide nails designed for sheer weight. The joists are then affixed to the joist hangers with the same nails. Screws or 16d nails are never used. 
Without joist hangers, joists would eventually give way under the weight. In some instances, joists are doubled or tripled and attached to a corresponding joist hanger to add even more support. 


Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Thursday, September 18, 2014

Refinishing Granite Flooring

Any kind or color of granite flooring provides a lively appeal to rooms and spaces. However, like all good things, the beauty of these items might fade over time. The luster of granite flooring may diminish thus making your floor look old and unattractive. Good thing there are steps that you can follow to make sure that your granite flooring always look as good as new. These steps include refinishing. This type of granite flooring maintenance is usually performed by equipped workers. However, those who believe that they can perform the job well, follow the steps below.

What You'll Need

Industrial sander
Diamond pads with abrasive grits
Diamond pads with less abrasive grits
Buffing chemical solution
Clean rug
Broom
Pail of water

Step 1 – Clean the Granite Flooring Area

Granite flooring undoubtedly loses its luster and shine because of dirt and stains. Make sure that your granite flooring really needs refinishing by removing dust particles and stains using a broom, clean rag and water. Consider letting it dry after cleaning to see if you need to proceed to the next steps.

Step 2 – Flatten Your Granite Flooring

Once you have determined that your granite flooring really needs refinishing, start the steps to flatten out the tiles. Get a regular industrial sander to even out slants and rough edges on your granite flooring. Flatten areas that have seemingly irremovable stains. Clean off dusts and debris.

Step 3 – Hone Your Granite Flooring

Fit a diamond pad with an abrasive grit to your industrial sander. Get to the spots that have deep scratches, slants and rough surfaces. You can also use the diamond pad-powered industrial sander to get rid of the hardest to remove stains and similar impurities. Be careful not to hone the areas that do not need further sanding as this would only create irregular textures.

Step 4 – Polish Your Granite Flooring

Remove the diamond pad with abrasive grit from your industrial sander and replace it with one that has a lot less abrasive grit. Again, run your industrial sander on the entire space of your granite flooring. Remember to do this with care so as not to damage your precious granite tiles. Clean off dust with an airbrush to determine if you still need to do the next step. If you think that your granite flooring has gained back its shine and luster, stop your refinishing routine here.

Step 5 – Buff Your Granite Flooring

Buffing for granite flooring only takes place when the project involved is considered to be old. Those who have abandoned spaces usually resort to this last step to gain back the shine of granite flooring. Get a buffing chemical solution especially made for granite floor. Apply it to the area concerned as instructed by the packaging. Leave the chemical solution to dry unless otherwise advised. The solution would begin a chemical reaction that would bring out the best shine possible from your granite flooring. Read the instructions of the solution as you might need to use a floor polisher for the best results.


Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Kitchen Grout Refresh

The photographs below are from a set of steps outside a house in the small West Lothian town of Kirkliston near Edinburgh airport and as you can see from the photograph the Quarry Tiled steps and Grout were looking tired and now in need of a good deep clean.

External Quarry Tile Steps Before Cleaning

Cleaning Quarry Tile and Grout

To get them clean we scrubbed in a strong solution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean, it was a small area so this was done by hand using water to rinse away the soiled cleaning solution. The process was repeated until the dirt and grime had been removed and particular attention was applied to the grout using a stiff brush and plenty of elbow grease. Cleaning tiles outside does have its advantages as there is less preparation required but drying can take longer if it’s a cold day or shady spot.

Grout Colouring Quarry Tiles

Despite our best efforts to get the grout clean there was still evidence of staining so once it was dry the grout was coloured with 2 coats of grout colourant. The top layer of grout is actually porous so it will become ingrained with dirt over time that makes cleaning very difficult, the grout colourant product we use however forms an epoxy barrier over the grout which seals the grout and makes it easy to clean. Once complete and dry the steps were finished off with a wipe down using Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner.

External Quarry Tile Steps After Cleaning






Source: Expert Grout Maintenance Advice

Sunday, September 14, 2014

Building a Floating Floor on an Uneven Surface

floating floor can really spice up any kind of home design. Some even serve multi-purposes such as a small stage for live performances and the likes. However the floor will be used, it is necessary that the area where the floating floor would be installed first be inspected.

Ideal Locations for Floating Floors

Ideally, a floating floor must be installed in a sturdy and even space. If this is not the case in your set-up, you should search for ways to improve the location of your floating floor.

Preparations in Correcting Uneven Surfaces for Floating Floor

Decide on the space where you would be putting up your floating floor. If you are considering using wood, make sure that the area you would choose would be safe for such materials. As such, laying a wooden floating floor on soil would need more considerations to ensure the protection of the wood.
Measure the area to ascertain what materials you would be using. If you are laying floating floor on the ground, considering having dips filled up with soil. You could also have rising areas plowed prior to the installation of your floating floor.

Sanding and Filling

For concrete and other similar subfloors or grounds, it might be best to allot a budget for sanding and filling. Get a level to determine the areas which you need to level. Evenly sand those areas that are a lot higher than the rest of the surface. Dust off all debris before measuring it up using your level. For dips, get concrete putty or other similar filler. Apply this to areas that need fillings. Let it dry completely before measuring it again. Sand the fills that has risen to more than the desire level.
Installing a floating floor on an uneven surface could also be achieved by skipping all the above-mentioned steps. However, the task at hand would be trickier. Thoroughly clean the area where you would be building the floating floor. After that, measure the areas where there are depressions and rises. The “legs” of your floating floor should be made to fit such sections.
In this regard, you need to measure up each of the fills and rise to be able to adjust the sizes of your floating floor’s legs. Measuring and wood cutting are the most important steps here. Any miscalculation could lead you to the misfit of the floating floor’s legs to the surface. Also, remember that the materials you would be using for the floating floor’s legs should be the sturdiest. These parts are like foundations that would be tasked to carry most of the pressure to the floating floor.
After all the adjustments have been done, continue on attaching the floor boards of your floating floor. Drive down nails and screws next to each other to stop the boards from squeaking. Also, double check for surface impurities that would need sanding. Hammer down each nail to ensure that they don’t come loose. Apply varnish and paint as desired.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Saturday, September 13, 2014

Quarry Tiled Room Renovation

This Quarry tiled floor was at a house in the town of Market Harborough and as you can see from the photograph below it was in a right state due to the plastering that had gone on previously while the property was refurbished. The plasterer has taken no steps to protect the tiles and as a result there was plaster and plaster dust ingrained into the tile.

Quarry Tiles Deep Cleaned in Market Harborough Before

Deep Cleaning Quarry Tiles

To clean the floor and remove mess of plaster that it has become covered it the whole floor was soaked in a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go which is a strong coatings remover that is safe to use on tile, stone and grout. If was left to dwell on the tiles for around twenty minutes before being worked into the floor with a rotary machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad, the grout was also scrubbed but this needs to be done by hand with a stiff brush. The soiled cleaning solution is then rinsed away using a wet vacuum and the process repeated on stubborn areas until all the tiles were clean. Once I was happy the floor was in an acceptable condition it was thoroughly rinsed with water to remove any cleaning products that might upset the sealer and then left to dry overnight; the wet vacuum was used again to remove the water and help dry the floor.

Sealing Quarry Tiles

We delayed our return until the decorators had painted the walls and unlike the plasterers they protected the floor so we didn’t have to spend time removing paint from the tiles. The tiles were thoroughly dry when we returned and so we got straight on with the task of sealing them with five coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is an impregnating sealer that occupies the pores in a tile preventing contaminates from become ingrained and as its name suggests does a great job of enhancing the colour in the tile.

Quarry Tiles Deep Cleaned in Market Harborough After



Source: Expert Tile, Stone and Grout Advice

Tuesday, September 9, 2014

How to Disassemble a Raised Floor

Dissembling a raised floor is a vital if you are ever installing any type of wiring or repairing heating systems under your floor. A raised floor is a type of flooring system which was perfected for use in offices and is now commonly used in lots of modern homes.
A raised floor is a type of flooring which is raised over the top of the original floor. This is done by using a frame and stands to jack the flooring up off the surface. A raised floor is commonly used to make running new cables and maintaining existing cables and pipes much easier.
Disassembling a raised floor is actually very easy if you follow a few simple tips and you have the right tools and materials available.
What You'll Need
  • Screwdriver
  • Wrench
  • Level

Step 1 - Removing Floor Covering

If you have a floor covering on top of the raised floor tiles, then the first thing you need to do is remove it. Raised floors don't have to look any different to normal floors because they can be covered in a variety of different materials. If you have carpets, laminate floors, or tiles over the top of the raised floor then these will need to be lifted up.

Step 2 - Removing Raised Floor Panels

The raised floor is made up of a series of frames which are fixed together on the floor. These have their own feet and stand on the floor very happily. Their job is to hold a small removable floor panel which can be lifted up when needed. If you are installing a new cable then try to lift up the sections of floor that you actually want to work on. Although it is possible to lift up the entire floor, you won't have anywhere else to work from.

Step 3 - Removing the Frame

If there has been any damage to the frame or if the legs need readjusting then you can remove it from the frame. The individual frames are typically bolted together, once the bolts are removed you can then lift the small frame out. Adjusting the legs is very easy and this can be done to make the floor level on any surface. Using a spirit level you can check whether or not the legs need adjusting.

Step 4 - Running New Wires

The wires or pipes can now be run in between the real floor and your raised floor. This creates an extra cavity which is much easier to access than your crawl space. Make sure you don't accidentally pinch any of the wires though as this could cause damage.

Step 5 - Re-assembly

Re-assembling your raised floor is also very easy. This can be done by bolting the frames back together and then simply dropping the panels back on top. If any of these panels are damaged then they might need to be replaced. The floor covering can then be replaced over the top, and nobody should be any the wiser that you've taken your entire floor up.


Wednesday, September 3, 2014

How to Repair Raised Flooring Pedestals

Raised flooring pedestals are what support a raised floor off the ground, if these become bent or damaged it can affect the structure of the whole raised floor. This is why it's so important to learn how to fix raised flooring pedestals. With the right tools and equipment, you can repair the problem and improve the overall health of your flooring.

What You'll Need

Replacement raised flooring frames
Replacement raised flooring pedestals
Replacement raised flooring panels (optional)
Screwdriver
Spanner
Measuring Tape
Cleaning Solution

Step 1 - Removing the Raised Flooring Panel

The first thing that you should do is remove the raised flooring panels from the affected area. You can't only remove the panel which is affected because you will need access around the entire frame. Remove the square of panels so that  you can access the area needed.

Step 2 - Assessing the Situation

Once the area is uncovered, take a look at the problem, there are a few other problems which can result in similar symptoms to a broken pedestal, including a break in the frame itself.

Step 3 - Removing the Damaged Frame

Remove the damaged frame from the floor. Depending on the floor you are using, you will either need to unscrew the frame, or alternatively it might just lift out. Normally you will need to unbolt the frame before it can be removed. Once it is removed take a look at it again to ensure that the problem is actually caused by a damaged pedestal.

Step 4 - Repairing the Frame

Depending on the type of floor frames that you used, you might be able to repair the frame by screwing in new pedestals. However most frames are welded together which doesn't make this a sensible option for most people. Most people will have to replace the frame entirely. When replacing the frame, choose a frame that is exactly the same size as your existing frame. If you do not, you will not be able to properly install the flooring.

Step 5 - Replacing the Frame

Once you have either repaired or replaced your frame, you will need to fit it again. This is done in exactly the same way as when you took it out, only in reverse. Start by adjusting the feet so that the frame is the right height off the floor. Also make sure that the frame will be level with all of the others.
Then, you need to decide whether or not you want to replace the panels. If one of the pedestals becomes damaged, your floor can bow and look unsightly. If any of the panels need to be replaced, be sure you choose the right shape and size of floor panel.

Step 6 - Finishing Touches

It is normal to leave fingerprints on the metal panels. Consider cleaning the floor panels using stainless steel polish to get a better result.