Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Cleaning and Restoring Old Victorian Tiles

The owner of this house located in the village of Holt had discovered a beautiful Victorian Tiled floor hidden underneath their hallway carpet and made contact with us to get it restored and brought back to life.

Victorian Tiled Floor Restoration in Holt Before

Cleaning a Victorian Tiled Floor

We started by making a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean mixed 50/50 with Nanotech Ultraclean which was applied to the floor and left to soak in to eat through the dirt, dust and marks left behind from the carpet and underlay. Once we let the solution dwell for twenty minutes we attached a black scrubbing pad to a rotary machine and worked the cleaning solution into the tile to remove the dirt and any old sealer that may have been present, then once the cleaning solution became was very dirty it was removed using a wet vacuum. The cleaning process revealed that there were paint splatters all around the wall edges where decorating had previous taken place and there was also evidence of carpet adhesive remaining on the tile. To remove this a solution of Tile Doctor Remove & Go was applied to the stubborn areas and left to dwell for ten minutes before being agitated with a stiff deck brush and a floor scraper. Once the edges were to a satisfactory level we then rinsed the area several times with fresh water to ensure any trace of cleaning product had been removed before sealing again using a wet vacuum to remove the water and also to dry the floor as much as possible before leaving for the evening.

Sealing a Victorian Floor Sealing

Upon our return the next day we did a damp test to make sure the floor was ready to be sealed. The test was positive so we then sealed the Victorian tiles with five coats of Seal & Go which both protects the floor against spills and traffic but also enhances the colours of each tile.

Victorian Tiled Floor Restoration in Holt After





Source: Victorian Tile Restoration Tips

Tile Grout Whitener and Decalcifying Gel

Grout whitener and decalcifying gel are two products used on your grout to remove some of the impurities and to re-establish its white shine. Below, these two products are discussed further.

Tile Grout Whitener

You can purchase tile grout whitener in any local home improvement center. Use this whitening product when you want to restore the white look of your grout. It is a great way to even give your grout a light seal.
When you use a grout whitener, you want to make sure that you scratch the surface of the grout before you apply the whitener. This helps to make sure the whitener penetrates into the older grout, seals it and re-whitens it appropriately.
Grout whitener is really easy to use and generally will dry in less than 12 hours. You can clean up the whitener if it is spilled with a simple warm water solution. Grout whitener will last a long time. You do not need to worry about your animals around the fresh whitener because it is non toxic.

Decalcifying Gel

Decalcifying gel is used on your tiles, like the grout whitener. This product can also be purchased at any local home improvement store. Use this product when you are looking to remove lime and mildew build-up in and around your grouted areas.



Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Friday, July 25, 2014

Changing the sealer on Quarry tiles in Lancashire

We were asked to take a look at these Quarry Tiles at a house in the Lancashire town of Formby near Liverpool. The tiles had been sealed with varnish but a polyurethane sealer like Varnish which forms a thin coat on the surface of the tile is easily scratched as you can see in the photograph below:

Varnished Quarry Tiles Cleaning Formby Before

Cleaning Quarry Tiles

To resolve the problem we had to strip off the Varnish coating from the Quarry tile using Tile Doctor Remove and Go which is especially designed for the safe removal of coatings from tile and stone. The product is diluted and spread over the floor allowing it to soak into the tile for around fifteen minutes before being scrubbed into the tile using a rotary floor scrubbing machine fitted with a black pad. The soiled solution is then washed off with clean water and extracted from the floor using a wet vacuum. There were some stubborn areas and these were tackled by repeating the process but this time with the addition of a steamer. A stiff brush was also used in the grout lines and when we were completely satisfied with the condition of the floor it was given an thorough rinse using cold water. The wet vacuum was used again to remove the water and get the floor as dry as possible.

Varnished Quarry Tiles Cleaning Formby After Cleaning

Sealing Quarry Tiles

The floor was left to dry overnight and we came back the next day to seal the floor using four coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which will protect it going forward and it also adds a nice shine to the tile.

Varnished Quarry Tiles Cleaning Formby After Sealing





Source: Expert Quarry Tile Maintenance site

Thursday, July 24, 2014

Grout Sealant Removal

Without the proper set of instructions, the removal of grout sealant can be a tricky, time-consuming procedure. If you've been looking for an easy method of removing grout sealant from your bathroom, read on.
Prepare Your Bathroom
Begin by placing thin strips of masking tape along the edges of your tiles. This will ensure that the tiles are protected from nicks or being chipped when the removal process is underway. Next, use an old towel to help to cover the surface beneath the area from which you will be removing grout sealant in order to prevent a huge mess from being made.
Protect Yourself
Before beginning the grout removal process, you must put on a dust mask and protective eye goggles. Although removing grout may not strike you as a particularly dangerous, it is imperative that you take the proper steps to protect yourself. The medical costs you will incur from inhaling grout dust or getting a piece of chipped sealant stuck in your eye will far surpass the few dollars you'll need to shell out for basic protection.
Get the Right Tools
Make sure you have the proper tools for the job. Grout removal is often handled with grout saws that have carbide tips or grout-scrapers with carbide tips. Grout saws have blades that are roughly 1.5 inches thick and are mounted atop handles that strongly resemble screwdrivers, whereas grout scrapers look like triangular-headed screwdrivers. Both of these tools can easily be found at your local hardware store for under ten dollars. However, the carbide-tipped attachments available for various rotary tools that are designed specifically for removing sealant. 
Begin the Grout Sealant Removal Process
Now that you've selected the tools you're going to use, it's time to begin removing the grout. Using your carbide-tipped saw or power tool, cut a groove in the sealant, then use a scraping tool to widen the groove, thus removing the grout. The difficulty of this step is largely dependent upon how firmly the grout is in place. If the sealant is exceptionally firm, you may want to incorporate the aid of a chisel and hammer to fully remove it.
Thoroughly Clean the Freshly Grout-less Area
Although the grout has been removed, you're not quite finished. You must now give the grout-less area a thorough cleaning. This will help ensure that your new grout will stick properly.
There are many different types of grout out there to choose from. Be sure to match it to both your decor and your tiles. You can also take this opportunity to repair a few tiles, if necessary.
Using these easy-to-follow steps, removing grout sealant no longer has to be a complex chore. 


Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Bathroom Grout Replacement

Replacing bathroom grout in your home can be an arduous and time-consuming undertaking. Fortunately, the proper set of instructions can make the job much easier and wind up saving you a great deal of time. So if you've been meaning to replace grout in your bathroom, you're in luck. This article will walk you through the process of bathroom grout replacement in a step-by-step fashion, thus ensuring that your grout-related anxieties become a thing of the past.
Step 1: Remove the Original Grout
Before you can install new grout, you must first remove the original grout. The difficulty of this task is largely dependent upon the quality of your original grout and the size of your bathroom. If the bathroom is relatively small and the original grout is not firmly in place, this step can usually be completed with nothing more than a basic hand tool designed specifically for removing grout. Removing large amounts of grout in this fashion can be both physically exhausting and very time-consuming, so for larger bathrooms, it is advised that you incorporate the aid of power tools with grout removal attachments. These attachments are generally shaped like claws and are carbide-tipped.
Step 2: Vigorously Clean the Grout-less Area
Once the original bathroom grout has been completely removed, you must give the newly grout-less area a thorough cleaning before proceeding any further. This step is extremely important, as your new grout may not adhere properly if there is any caked-on dirt or debris. In addition to being given a vigorous scrubbing, it is also recommended that you vacuum the grout-less area in order to ensure that there is no remaining dust.
Step 3: Prepare the Grout Mix
With the tiled area sufficiently cleaned, it is time to prepare the grout mix. Start by pouring the dry grout mix into a clean bucket. Then, give it a powerful stirring so as to lay waste to any meddlesome clumps. Next, consult the package to learn how much water you're going to need, then fill another clean bucket with the specified amount. Slowly begin to add small portions of grout mix to the water while stirring the mixture with a mixing tool. Continue to stir until the mixture becomes sticky.
Step 4: Protect Your Bathroom Tiles
Now that you've prepared the mixture, you're almost ready to begin laying your new grout. But first, you must place thin strips of tape along the edges of your tiles in order to prevent leakage. Should any mixture leak out onto the tiles, it is imperative that you clean it posthaste, lest it harden and become extremely difficult to remove. For this reason, it is recommended that you have a bucket of water and a sponge handy at all times during the bathroom grout replacement process.
Step 5: Begin Applying Your New Grout
Having secured your tiles, you are now ready to applying your new grout. With the aid of a tile float, carefully but firmly begin filling the grout-less areas. When performing this step, it is important that you apply the new grout as slowly as possible. Haste makes waste—especially when it comes to replacing grout.
After giving the new grout ample time to dry, you're all done! And there you have it—grout replacement in five easy steps.



Tuesday, July 22, 2014

Deep Cleaning Quarry Tiles in Wiltshire

I recently paid a free home survey visit to a home owner in the village of Sherston near Malmesbury where the sealer on her Quarry Tiled Floor had started to fail in places and was becoming difficult to keep clean. Whilst I was there I did a sample clean and after reviewing the results she was happy to book us in for the job.

Quarry Tiles in Sherston Before Cleaining

Cleaning Quarry Tiles

To clean the Tiles and strip off the remaining sealer we used a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-clean mixed 50/50 with Nanotech Ultraclean, the Nanotech product adds tiny abrasive particles to the mix making it a more effective cleaning product. This was left to dwell on the floor for twenty minutes before being worked into the tile using and black buffer pad fitted to a rotary buffing machine. The whole area was cleaned in this manner along with a stiff hand brush to get into the grout lines and a wet vacuum which was used to suck up the dirty residue before the floor was rinsed down with cold water. Once the floor had started to dry it had become apparent that there was still some seal left behind. To resolve this problem I used Tile Doctor Remove and Go which is a powerful coatings remover product. It was left to dwell on the Quarry tiles for ten minutes before being scrubbed in with both a deck brush and black pad. I was still having problems removing all the seal so I then used a steamer with Remove and Go and a stiff deck brush to remove the last of the evident seal. The floor was then thoroughly rinsed the floor several times with clean water to remove any product build up and the ware removed using the wet vacuum.

Sealing Quarry Tiles

The floor was left to dry for a couple of days and then I returned to seal the floor first testing it was dry with a damp meter. The floor was fully dry we applied multiple coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which will protect the floor from stains going forward making it easier to clean and also adds a nice shine to the tile.

Quarry Tiles in Sherston After Cleaining

Before leaving I advised the customer on the use of a Neutral tile cleaner to help prolong the life of the sealer, there are a number of acidic floor cleaning products available which should not be used with stone or sealed floors as the acid will eat into the sealer over time reducing its life.





Source: Expert Quarry Tile Maintenance site

Monday, July 21, 2014

Using Tile Glaze to Make Repairs

Tile glaze can help maintain and repair ceramic floors that are used heavily and have a lot of wear. In order to make repairs to your ceramic floor, you can use tile glaze and a small set of tools to fully repair and maintain the ceramic floor to its original state.

What You'll Need
Tile glaze
Mop
Vacuum
Gloves
Tape
Roller
Small Brush
Chisel

Grout

Step 1: Cleaning the floor

The ceramic tile floors will need to be cleaned first. This will make it possible to have a smooth and even surface when you apply the glaze later. Clean the floor with a vacuum that does not have a roller because these will damage the floor. Or you can sweep the floor which will help loosen the dirt to make the floor cleaner. Once you have cleaned up all the dirt, use warm water and soap to mop. Be sure to remove any extra residue and mop at least three times. Dry the floor with a sponge or a rinsed out mop and let it stand until it is no longer wet and becomes dry.

Step 2: Taping and Replacing

Use scotch tape to block off the surrounding areas where you do not want to include glaze. If there are broken, or extremely damaged tiles, you may want to consider removing and replacing them before you add the glaze. To do this, use a chisel to remove the grout and then lift up the old tile and place it aside so you can clean out the debris of the whole you made from the tile. Add adhesive to the new tile and the floor and place it so it lines up with the other tiles. Let this dry for a day then you can use a knife to place in the new grout and let this sit from a day as well. When these are in place you are ready to begin the glaze to the floor.

Step 3: Applying Glaze

You will first want to consider the type of glaze you will be using when applying it to the floor. For most purposes, you will want to use a clear glaze, but a colored glaze will work best if your ceramic floor has a unique color. Find the right glaze for your floor and use the paint roller or the brush to apply a small layer of it across the floor to seal in the cracks and chips from the damaged floor. Before you do this, make sure you open a window and wear a mask because the glaze may contain chemicals that can harm you.
The glaze will dry quickly so you will have to work fast in order to cover the entire floor. When the first layer is dry, you will want to add another coat for a strong finish. Adding glaze to your floor covers up the cracks and chips and makes your floor stronger and nicer.



Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Friday, July 18, 2014

Installing Mexican Tile: What You Should Know

Mexican tiles or Talavera tiles are famed for their bright colors and uniqueness.

Variations

No two Mexican tiles are the same because they are all made and decorated by hand. They are mostly quite small – up to 6inches square. As well as minor color variations, sizes can differ. The glaze can appear crazed (*see note below), some tiles are warped or bowed, and it is not unusual to find cracks in Mexican tiles. Even when sets of tiles are produced they are all slightly different from each other.

Best Use

Mexican tiles are unique and very colorful so they tend to be used to create highlights. A very popular use is to frame house numbers and yet they lend themselves equally well to covering whole walls in a riot of color. The tiles are water proof so they are used in bathrooms and around swimming pools as well as in kitchens where they make excellent back splashes.

Versatility

Mexican tiles can be applied to any surface that will take a setting adhesive. With standard tiles it is necessary to use spacers to create space for grouting but the irregular sizes and shapes of Mexican tiles make that unnecessary.

Laying Out

If you are trying to create a particular pattern with Mexican tiles it is advisable to lay the pattern out on a bench or table to see what the final result might look like. If many tiles are warped or don’t lie flat the lay out will show where there will be tiles standing proud and, if that is not a desired effect, the tiles can be moved around to minimize the effect.

Use on a Flat Surface

Mexican tiles have been used to surface tables but when they are used on flat surfaces the tiles need to be supported to prevent a heavy object that has been placed on the table from breaking tiles that are warped. The tiles are unsuitable for kitchen surfaces because they are not smooth and are difficult to keep hygienically clean.

In the Garden

Mexican tiles can be used to create highlights on fountains, garden furniture, patios and planters. Surprisingly they make very hard wearing additions to footpaths if they are set in cement or concrete.

Easy Care

As pretty as Mexican tiles are, they are simplicity itself to care for. Tiles that are outdoors can be almost ignored because the normal rainfall is enough to keep them clean and sparkling. Indoors all that is needed is an occasional wash with mild soapy water. Abrasives should never be used on Mexican tiles because they will eventually destroy the glaze and the tile would be spoiled by water penetration.

If you are looking for something bright and different, why not explore Mexican tiles. Maybe you can install one on each of the risers of your staircase or create a colorful panel around your house number or name.

*Crazed – This is an industry wide term used to describe a random network of fine cracks that can appear in the glaze of ceramic objects. Crazing can be the result of over-heating the kiln during the firing when the glaze cannot expand as quickly as the base material of the object. The apparent crazing on Mexican tiles is usually the result of an over generous application of glaze which allows the top surface bake and then be cracked by the lower levels of glaze expanding. The crazing could be limited to small areas of the product where an extra coat of glaze has been made in error. Crazing does not weaken the ceramic object but they should be sealed before use to prevent the penetration of liquids that might weaken of discolour the object..



Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Saturday, July 5, 2014

How To Buy A Mortar Thin Set

When you are applying tile to the floor, you are obviously going to want to make sure that it will be durable, especially in choosing the right mortar thin set. Additionally, you will want to make sure that it adds more beauty to the home. There are many vendors that distribute mortar thin sets, which means that there are many different directions a person can go when finding something that has the right look. There are certain steps a person should take to make sure that they have made the right decision.

Using the Right Grout

Firstly, you need to know what color of grout that you will be using. There are a few different types, but it is wise to use gray grout if you are using dark tile. On the other hand, if you are using light tiles, you should go with white. 

Latex or Sanded
If you are applying the mortar to cement, you should go with a sanded base. If your canvas is vinyl or some kind of wood, it’s best to invest on the latex based mortar thin set. You will also need to calculate how much you will need, so you do not buy too much. And lastly, consider your experience, as there could be more qualified people to handle the job.



Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Friday, July 4, 2014

Make Your Own Porcelain Tiles

If you prefer the strength and durability of porcelain tile over ceramic but you don't want to pay the higher price, consider producing your own porcelain tile at home. To make porcelain tile, you will need access to a kiln since it gets hotter than a conventional kitchen oven. A pottery studio or community college can be contacted for information on using their kiln oven.

What You'll Need
  • Porcelain Tile Clay Mix
  • Glaze
  • Kiln
Step 1: Prepare Porcelain Tile Mix
Prepare the porcelain clay mix according to the packaging instructions. The mix can be obtained online or through a stonemason or tile and flooring store. The mixes come in a variety of colors and styles so you have a broad selection to from which to choose.

Step 2: Create Porcelain Tile Molds
Create molds for the number of tiles needed to complete the job. The tile molds will need to be arranged in order to be fed into the kiln for the first firing.

Step 3: Place Tiles in Low Fired Kiln
Once the porcelain tile molds have been arranged, place the molds into the kiln. The initial firing of the kiln heats the molds up and bonds the pieces together. The kiln should be set on a low heat temperature. Seek assistance in setting the kiln temperature if you have never worked with one in the past.

Step 4: Apply Glaze
After the initial firing, remove the tiles from the kiln and allow them to cool. When the tiles are cool to the touch, apply a glaze to the tiles. This will help to further bond the porcelain molds and help them become tiles. The glaze will be fused to the tile molds during the final firing.

Step 5: Place Tiles in Kiln for Final Firing
Place the tiles back into the kiln for a full firing. This process will seal the porcelain tile ingredients with the glaze and make the final bonded tiles. This process strengthens the tiles and makes them impenetrable to water and moisture.

When the final firing is completed, remove the tiles from the kiln and allow them to cool before handling them. When the porcelain tiles become cool to the touch you can apply paint or shellac finishes to the tiles. Use your imagination to create whatever look you want with the porcelain tiles.

Try different porcelain tile mixes and experiment with different colors to create your own porcelain tiles. You can become creative and add decorative patterns and shapes within the tile molds before the initial firing. If you are working at a pottery studio, ask the owner for tips and suggestions they may have to create a unique porcelain tile.


Thursday, July 3, 2014

Detailed Victorian Floor Restoration

This particular Victorian tiled floor had been installed in the hallway of a house in Stow Park, Gwent around 130 years ago. Despite its age it was in a good condition and the detailed pattern although dirty was still very distinctive, the customer felt however that the floor was spoilt by the total erosion of the stone step at the front door which had suffered from the 130 years of footfall that had occurred across the threshold.

Victorian Tile Issue Resolved in Gwent Before

They asked me for any suggestions to make it more pleasing on the eye so I chose various colours from the main floor area and created a new entrance step leading to the main hallway comprising of 150 mm x 150 mm original style red and black floor tiles and 150 mm x 75 mm original style black round edge tiles.

Victorian Tile Issue Resolved in Gwent After

Cleaning a Victorian Tiled Floor

The difference between the old and new was fairly obvious so once the tiles had been laid and the grout had gone off I returned to give the original Victorian tiles a thorough clean. There were some stubborn stains on the floor so I decided to scrub in a couple of strong products called Tile Doctor Remove and Go followed by Tile doctor Grout Clean-up rinsing in between the stages. Remove and Go is a sealer and coatings remover that as well as cleaning will remove old coatings such as sealers from the tile, this is important if you wish to re-seal the floor as you can get unexpected results if you add one sealer on top of another. Grout Clean-up removes mineral deposits such as the white salts from effloresce, rust and grout smears. The floor was given a thorough rinse following the cleaning process to ensure no product was left on the floor that could upset a sealer.

Sealing a Victorian Floor Sealing

Aided by the warm weather it wasn’t long before the tiles were dry enough to be sealed and so I applied two coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which adds a nice subtle sheen to the floor as well as providing on-going stain protection.

Victorian Tile Issue Resolved in Gwent After Sealing

I think you would have to agree my solution worked out well and the new tiles look part of the original floor.





Source: Expert Tile and Grout Maintenance advice