Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Cleaning Terracotta tiles in a Kitchen

This Terracotta tiled floor was laid in the kitchen of a property located in Horncastle, Lincolnshire. The tiles were well maintained and in reasonable condition compared to some floors I have worked on but they had started to look tired and dull in some areas and so the customer wanted them deep cleaned and resealed.

Terracotta Horncastle Before Cleaning

Cleaning Terracotta Tiles

I began the job using a strong solution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean, which is a heavy duty alkaline product ideal for cleaning natural products such as Terracotta and stripping off old sealers, this was scrubbed in with a black pad fitted to a rotary machine. We repeated the process a couple of times and also used a stiff hand brushes along the grout lines where the pads can often struggle to reach. Once happy the floor was clean it was given a thorough rinse to remove any remaining chemical and left it to dry.

Terracotta Horncastle Before Sealing

Sealing Terracotta Tile

We left the floor to dry and then returned then next day to re-seal it. Tile Doctor Seal and Go was used to seal the floor, it’s a topical water based sealer that doesn’t give off an odour when it’s drying and also offers durable stain protection together with a low sheen finish which I think you will agree has added a nice shine to the floor. Terracotta is very porous and this floor actually took five coats of sealer before it was fully sealed. Applying a sealer does take a long time to apply as you have to wait for it to dry before applying the next coat.

Terracotta Horncastle After Sealing

The work took two days in all, you can see the difference for yourself.



Source: Terracotta Kitchen Tile maintenance

How to Re-Grout Ceramic Tile

Grout that is stained, cracked or falling out can be a serious detriment to the appearance of your tiled surface. Whether it is your floor, countertop, bathroom wall, or tub surround, it looks bad. It can also present problems if water is getting behind your tile. By leaving cracks, you are opening the door for mildew and mold to start growing behind tiled surface.

While it may seem like a complicated problem to fix, re-grouting your tile surface is a job that you can do yourself. With a little patience you will have it looking like a professional job in very short time.

1. Use the Right Type of Grout. The first thing to do is to determine what kind of grout you are going to use. Obviously, if you have a specific color, then you need to make sure you match it up correctly. If you can, break off a loose piece and take it with you to a home improvement store so you can hold it up next the samples. This will ensure that you get a good match.

Typically, if the space between your tiles is larger than 1/8", you'll want to use sanded grout. The sand gives the grout more strength and allows it to hold together better in the larger gaps. If the space is 1/8" or smaller, use an un-sanded grout. The absence of the sand will allow the grout to flow smoothly into the narrower space and you don't need the tensile strength that you would when filling larger gaps. One key thing to remember: Never use sanded grout if you have marble tiles. The sand in the grout will scratch the surface of the marble and it cannot be repaired. Your marble should have been installed with a 1/8" or smaller gap anyway, so this shouldn't be a big issue. But if it is, go ahead and use the un-sanded. The other will ruin your floor.

2. Clean and Remove Existing Grout. Once you have selected the proper type and color of grout, it's time to get down to work. Before you do anything else, make sure the existing grout is clean. Use a commercial grout cleaner to make sure any soap residue, mildew and other everyday grime has been removed, and then allow it to dry thoroughly.

At this point you need to remove all of the damaged, cracked, or crumbling grout. This is done using a grout saw, which you can pick up inexpensively at a home improvement store. Use the saw to break away any loose material. It has a rough carbide cutting surface which actually grinds out the grout more than it cuts it. You must make absolutely certain that there is no loose material left between your tiles. If there is, it will start to fall out later underneath your new grout and all of your hard work will have been for nothing.

Next take a wet rag and dampen the grooves where the grout is going to be applied. Since grout is actually a masonry product and not a glue, some moisture is necessary for proper adhesion. You want to make sure that you don't have puddles, but it is important that the area be damp.

3. Apply Grout to the Spaces. Once you have mixed the grout according to the manufacturer's specifications, you can begin applying it. Use a grout float to spread the mixture evenly over all the of the surfaces that need to be filled. Once they are all full, go back over them with a wet finger to smooth each joint. If you find some low places as you are smoothing the joints, go back over that entire area with the grout float and then smooth it with your finger again.

Once all of the grooves are even and filled, go over the area with a squeegee to remove any excess grout from the face of the tiles. This can also be done with a grout sponge. Try not to wipe over an area to many times, as you may disturb the grout that is drying in the grooves. Don't panic if you do mess it up; just float some more grout over the area and start again.

The manufacturer should provide you with fairly accurate details concerning how long the product needs to dry. Once it has dried, take the time to inspect your work carefully. Grout can shrink while it is drying, and you may notice some grooves that have small gaps at the edges. If this is the case, you need to repeat the application step. Don't be frustrated - it's fairly normal to have to do this twice. When you are shopping you may want to inquire as to whether they carry any non-shrinking grout. It could potentially save you this extra step.

4. Seal the Grout. After you are completely satisfied with the grout work, there is one more step you need to take. The grout needs to be sealed to help protect it against further stains and mildew. The sealer is available at the home improvement store and usually comes already mixed in a handy applicator. Follow the directions and apply it directly to your completely dry grout.

When this has dried sufficiently, take a wet rag or a sponge and wipe any remaining residue off the face of the tiles. This will create a haze on the face of the tile. Allow that haze to dry, and then come back one more time and wipe it off with a dry rag. Underneath you will find your tile looks brand new, with a beautiful grout job to match.

If you are unfamiliar with the materials used in tiling, the grout and the float may seem a little awkward at first. Don't give up though. You'll get the hang of it pretty quickly and then realize that this is definitely a job that you can do yourself.


Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Cleaning Slate tiles in a shower

This bathroom in Richmond, Surrey was tiled in Slate on the walls and floor to create a wet room effect. Overtime the old sealer had perished allowing soiling and shower products to stain tile and grout there was also evidence of heavy Limescale deposits.

Slate Wet Room Before Cleaning

Cleaning the Slate Tiled Floor

We decided to give the tile and grout a deep cleaning using a strong mixture of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean combined 50/50 with Nanotech Ultra Clean to make it more effective. To get the cleaning solution to stick to the wall tile and grout it was decanted into a spray bottle and sprayed on to the tile, this combines it with air making it lighter and allowing it to dwell on the vertical surface. The solution was then worked into the Slate tile and grout by hand using a stiff scrubbing brush and then washed off using clean water, this process had to be repeated a number of times until we were happy that the tile and the grout were clean again. Pro-Clean is also an effective sealer stripper so will have removed any remaining sealer from the surface, this is important as the new sealer may not have been compatible with the old. There were a number of areas that had stubborn Limescale deposits so we treated them with Tile Doctor Remove and Go which is a very strong product that as the name suggests will pretty much remove anything but is safe to use on Tile and Grout. Once this process was complete the whole area was given a thorough wash down with water a number of times to remove any remaining chemical and neutralise the surface ready for sealing.

Sealing Indian Slate Tiles

We left the floor to dry off overnight and came back the next day to re-seal the tile and grout. We choose to do this with Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is an impregnating sealer that will sit in the pores of the tile and grout rather than on the surface and help protect it for longer, it’s also a great product to use on natural stone such as Slate as it really brings out the natural colours in the stone.

Slate Shower After Cleaning

Certainly my customer was pleased with the results and left the following message:
Jon was friendly and professional, working to a very high standard and keeping me well informed throughout the process.



Source: Slate shower room maintenance

Monday, July 29, 2013

Sanded Grout Installation Techniques

Sanded grout is used to reinforce concrete and seal joints or voids, like in between tiles. It is made up of a mixture of water, sand, gravel and cement. Sometimes, sanded grout has a color tint to it. It is applied in a thick liquid form like mortar and hardens as it dries.

Sanded Grout Installation

Wipe the tile surface clean with a grout sponge first. Make sure all spacers are also removed. Dampen the surface with water. Hold the rubber grout float at 45 degree angle and apply the grout into the joints, filling them completely. Use the grout float to remove excess grout. Use the tool’s handle to tap the joint, which will help pack the grout. Be sure that the grout is not just sitting on top of the joints. 

Fuller Installation

Dry grout powder can be applied over the surface right after grouting for fuller joints. When the grout begins to darken, use a cotton cloth to pack the joint. Clean the tile face. When grout firms, a haze will appear on the tiles. Wipe the haze and clean all grout that remains on the surface of the tiles. A dry towel can be used to buff the remaining haze after 24 hours.


Source:  www.DoItYourself.com

Thursday, July 25, 2013

Cleaning and Sealing a Victorian Tiled floor

Details below of a Victorian tiled floor we did recently in in St Margaret’s, Shepperton. The floor had not been maintained for a while and was in need of a mechanical scrub clean and a new seal, building and renovations have been on-going for some time and so in some areas there was a lot of ground in dust and soil.

Cleaning Victorian Tiles

We set about cleaning the floor using Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which was applied with a mop and left it to dwell on the floor for five minutes in order to give it chance to soak into the tile and get to work on the dirt. The solution was then worked into the floor with the use of a rotary scrubbing machine fitted with a scrubbing pad. The soiled residue was then vacuumed away and the floor was rinsed through, the process was then repeated until we were happy with the overall condition of the tiles.

Twickenham Victorian Floor Before

Sealing Victorian Tiles

Due to moisture being held in the substrate we had to allow seven days for the floor to dry and tests were performed with a damp meter to ensure the floor was ready to accept a sealer. Four coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go were then applied which is a recommended Sealer for Victorian Tile, offering good stain protection and adding a low sheen to the surface. Sealing the floor also makes cleaning it much easier going forward, it is however a slow process as you have to let each coat dry before applying the next.

Twickenham Victorian Floor After

We can maintain all types of tile, stone and grout servicing the Twickenham and the surrounding areas so please get in touch for a free evaluation of your floor.



Source: Learn more about maintaining Victorian Tiles

Tuesday, July 23, 2013

How to Lay Outdoor Tile

An outdoor tile will not only beautify the surface of your patio but will also help prevent unwanted accidents due to slipping. Anyone can lay outdoor tiles and this project can be done without the help of a professional. Here are steps for you to follow if you want to try it.

What you'll need

  • Grout mix
  • Measuring tape
  • Tile glue
  • sponge
  • Tile cutter
  • Outdoor tiles of your choice


Step 1 – Measure the Area to be covered with Tiles

To identify how many tiles you will need, you have to measure first the area to be covered with it. Make sure to include space in between the tiles where you will be putting the grout. You also have to decide whether you will use small or big tiles to help you find out how many tiles you have purchase.

Step 2 – Prepare the Surface for Installation

For better adherence, make sure to clean the surface where you will install the tiles. This should be devoid of dust, grime, or anything that may interfere with adhesion of tiles to the surface.

Step 3 – Installation of the Tile and Grouting

Put adhesive glue on the back part of the tile and place each tile according to the desired pattern. Leave equal spaces in between tiles for grouting. Cut tiles whenever there is a need to do so. After this, apply grouting mixture in between the tile, enough to cover the spaces. Remove excess grout mixture using a wet sponge. Allow the grout to cure and tiles to fully adhere to the ground.


Monday, July 22, 2013

Slate Tile Maintenance

This slate tiled floor was installed in a Kitchen in Burton on Trent, Staffordshire. The owner of the house felt it was time to get it cleaned and re-sealed so gave us a call.

Cleaning black slate floor tiles

We set about cleaning the kitchen floor with a mixture of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean mixed 50/50 with Tile Doctor Nano-tech Ultraclean which was worked into the pores of the slate tile using a slow speed rotary machine fitted with a Polyscrub scrubbing brush which can reach down into grouting as well as scrubbing the floor. I then used a wet vacuum to remove the resultant soiled solution before rinsing the floor down twice with cold water, this also neutralises the floor prior to sealing.

Slate Floor Before Cleaning

Sealing Slate floor tiles

I left the floor overnight to dry then came back next day and used a damp test meter to verify the floor was dry and ready for sealing. Once happy I proceed to apply three coats of Tile Doctor Seal & Go which as you can see from the photograph below has really brought out the natural colours in the slate. I used a water test after the third coat was dry to see if the water would form bubble on the surface thus indicating it was dry, which it did thereby indicating the floor was fully sealed.

Slate Floor After Cleaning

Overall the job took two days and I’m happy report the customer was amazed with the outcome and very pleased.


Source: Learn more about cleaning Slate tiles

Thursday, July 18, 2013

How to maintain Terracotta Tiles

This Terracotta tiled floor was laid in the kitchen of a property located in Shepperton, Middlesex. It had been laid eight years prior and had an initial sealer applied. Over the years the customer had applied polish to help maintain a shine however the sealer and polish were now in a bad state and holding onto dirt. You can see this in the photographs below which show the tiles looking quite dull and the grout grey.

Terracotta Tiles Before Terracotta Tiles Before

Cleaning Terracotta Tiles

I started the job using a strong solution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean, which is a heavy duty alkaline product ideal for cleaning natural products such as Terracotta and stripping off old sealers and polish, this was scrubbed in with a black pad fitted to a rotary machine. We repeated the process a couple of times and also used a stiff hand brushes along the grout lines where the pads can often struggle to reach. Once happy the floor was clean it was given a thorough rinse to remove any remaining chemical and left it to dry.

Sealing Terracotta Tile

We left the floor to dry for 48 hours and then returned to re-seal it. Tile Doctor Seal and Go was used to seal the floor, it’s a topical water based sealer that doesn’t give off an odour when it’s drying and also offers durable stain protection together with a low sheen finish which really enhances the natural colour of the tile. Terracotta is very porous and in the end the floor actually took six coats of sealer before it was fully sealed. Applying a sealer does take a long time to apply as you have to wait for it to dry before applying the next coat.

Terracotta Tiles After Terracotta Tiles After

The work took two days in all and you can see the difference for yourself, the floor now looks much improved certainly the customer was very pleased with the end result and now has a floor that is easy to maintain for the future. I cover Shepperton and the surrounding areas so please feel free to contact me.    




Source: Learn more about cleaning Terracotta tiles

Tuesday, July 16, 2013

How to Seal Outdoor Tile

Outdoor tile is made to be sturdy, and to withstand a great deal of exposure from wind, rain, snow and other elements. However, just because this tile is built to last for a long time, does not mean that it won't require some protection on your part. Over time, it's common for outdoor tile to suffer from a wide variety of different problems, including staining, cracking and more. By sealing your outdoor tile, you help to protect it against damage and to extend its life. Read on for additional information on how to go about sealing your outdoor tile.

What you'll need

  • Tile and grout sealer solution
  • Paint brush
  • Grout mixture
  • Trowel
  • Grout float
  • Sponge
  • Clean cloth
  • Broom and dustpan

Step 1 -- Clean Off the Tile

Use your broom and dustpan to clean any debris off of the surface of the outdoor tile. You should ensure that the tiles themselves are completely clean, before you attempt to seal up the tile. This will protect the appearance of the tile, and help to be sure that there won't be any dirt or other debris caught under the layer of sealant.

Step 2 -- Apply the Sealant

Use the paintbrush to apply a thin layer of the tile and grout sealer solution to the surface of a tile. Be sure that the layer of sealant covers the entire surface of the tile, and that it's even throughout. Also, be sure that the sealant does not drip down off of the top of the surface of the tile onto the grout. Allow the sealant to dry over night, before you continue with the procedure. This will help to ensure that the coloration of the tile is not affected by the application of additional grout.

Step 3 -- Apply the Grout

Mix up a batch of the grout and trowel it into place in the seams between the tiles. Use the float to smooth the grout into the gaps between the tiles. Clean off any extra grout that stands out above the surface of the tiles. After approximately 15 minutes, wipe down the grout with a wet sponge. After about an hour, clean off the surface of the grout with the cloth. Allow the grout to dry completely, which typically takes about 2 days, before continuing.

Step 4 -- Seal the Grout and Tiles

You'll now need to seal up the tiles once again, this time with the grout as well. Use the paintbrush to apply an equally thin layer of grout and tile sealant solution to the surface of the floor. Make sure that the solution covers all parts of the tile surface and the grout in between tiles as well. Allow the sealant to dry over night once again.
If desired, you can repeat the final step in this procedure, in order to provide an added layer of protection for your tiles and grout. All of the materials and tools necessary for this project are available at your local hardware store and home improvement center.



Saturday, July 13, 2013

Add a Rustic Touch to Your Home with a Terracotta Floor

If you want to add a rustic charm to your kitchen, garage, or floors as a whole, consider installing a terracotta floor. This design choice works well in country homes or those looking for a Spanish flair. Terracotta is a warm copper color that complements most decor, and it can add a touch of elegance to any space. If you think you want to add this look to your home, consider some of the benefits below.

It's Unique
Since terracotta is made of clay, you never get two tiles that look just alike. They all provide a slight variance in color and pattern that looks great, no matter where you put it. People often use terracotta backsplashes because of this unique look, but flooring is the most popular application. In a rustic setting, this unpredictable pattern works very well with the natural looking design.

It's Easy to Install

Terracotta is very easy to install if you know what you are doing. It works just like any other tile. You simply provide a surface to adhere the tile to, allow it to set, and then grout it. Because of the porous nature of this material, it is actually very easy to cut for awkward corners. It is these pores, however, that also hurt the durability of the terracotta. If you add a sealant to the surface of the tile though, you should have no issues at all.

It's Easy to Clean

Since you have to put a sealant over the terracotta tiles, cleanup is a breeze. Most liquid beads up on the surface, so all you have to do is wipe up a mess with a paper towel or mop. These floors don't show stains or dirt easily either, so they can still make your rustic space look good, even if they are dirty. Oftentimes a little dirt actually helps to add some charm to the tiles. Thus you may not have to clean as often as you may think.

It's Comfortable

Even though a lot of rustic furniture is made from wood, most people manage to find comfort in that material. Terracotta flooring is no different. It may be a hard tile, but it is not as hard as a lot of other tiles on the market. Thus you may find walking on terracotta to be a comfortable option for your home, especially if you have small children. This floor doesn't get cold as easily as some other materials, so you should be fine to walk on it in winter months.

It's Ageless

As time goes by, your rustic terracotta floor will look better and better. The unique patterns on each tile start to reveal themselves after years of wear. The tiles themselves lose some of the artificial smooth texture, and they start to become more realistic. If you are looking for a set of tiles to grow with you, these are definitely it. You should have a beautiful floor for years to come.



Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Thursday, July 4, 2013

How to Remove Old Grout from Used Travertine Floor Tile

A member of the limestone family, a travertine floor tile is reputed to be a durable and aesthetic flooring option. Grouting of travertine tiles is usually sealed during the installation process to ensure their durability and protect them from getting dirty. This makes the grout lines very resilient. This is why removing old grout from travertine tiles is a bit tricky. Commercial grout-removal chemical solutions might help to cleanse the grout and loosen it but they cannot displace the hardened, old grout, i.e. they are more suited for removing recently-laid grout. These chemical solutions can also cause discoloration of the tiles. Further, these solvents contain toxic chemicals that are harmful to the environment. An eco-friendly and more effective way of removing old grout is explained below.

What you'll need

  • Water
  • Soft-bristle brush
  • Drill bit (with diamond-edged drilling disk)
  • Vacuum cleaner
  • Grout scraper
  • Grout saw
  • Rotary tool
  • Hammer
  • Chisel
  • Dremel tool
  • Razor blade
  • Steel wool

Step 1 - Preparing Travertine Tile Surface

Start by cleaning the travertine tiles. Thorough cleaning with warm water helps to moisten and soften the old grout to some extent. You can also use a soft-bristled brush for rubbing the very thin grout lines. This is critical since the blades of the drill cannot access the very small crevices. The scrubbing ensures better grout removal in such a scenario.

Step 2 - Weakening Old Grout

Using a grout saw or a rotary tool, chisel a thin groove within the old grout line. It is better to start chiseling immediately after the cleaning, since moistened grout is easier-to-penetrate. Once a thin line has been established along the grout, expand it using the grout scraper. The scraper is very useful for scooping-out small sections of the old grout. If any section of the old grout seems impervious to this method, you can use the conventional combination of a hammer and chisel to tap and loosen the old grout.

Step 3 - Drilling Out Old Grout

You can use a Dremel tool or a power drill for this step. However, a power drill ensures better results since its blades offer deeper incision into old grout lines. Load the drill with the diamond-edged disk. Position the disk’s edge within the weakened groove of the old grout and turn-on the drill. The spinning blade effectively digs-out the old grout. Slowly, move the drill ahead, i.e. towards the opposite end of the tile. You need to be very careful while using the drill since lowering it too much can harm the edges of the travertine tiles. You can repeat the drilling until most of the grout lines are comprehensively removed.

Step 4 - Finishing Drilled Grout Lines

You need to remove the loose debris and grout dust from the drilled grout line. This is best done with a handheld vacuum. Please note that among very old travertine tile surfaces, miniscule deposits of grout might still be visible. You can use a razor blade to scrape-away these grout bits. To ensure that the travertine tiles are properly prepared for re-grouting, clean the emptied grout lines with steel wool.



Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Monday, July 1, 2013

Deep Cleaning Ceramic Tiles

These ceramic tiles situated in a large flat in Bravington Road W9 which is near Kensal Town in the City of Westminster, London. The tiles had been in place when the client moved into the flat some years ago and were badly in need of deep cleaning, attempts to remove the dirt using a steam cleaner had been successful but very slow. In the end the owner, realising that cleaning more than 75 square metres of tile herself in this way was going to take too long, decided to call in professional help from Tile Doctor.

Ceramic Tile Cleaning Before

Cleaning Ceramic Tiles

Using Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which is a heavy duty alkaline cleaning product and a medium brush on a Numatic buffing machine I lifted most of the ground-in dirt from the tiles before rinsing and scrubbing the floor again with a black buffing pad and scrubbing the grout clean by hand using a stiff grout brush.

Ceramic Tile Cleaning During

I then thoroughly washed the floor with a mop and fresh water which was then removed with an aqua vacuum, this process was repeated until I was satisfied the floor was clean. When the floor was dry it revealed an nearly as-new ceramic tiled floor with a pleasing sandstone imitation design. The photos show the floor before cleaning with a mark around where a piece of furniture had been removed and then the uniformly clean floor after the cleaning process was complete. The customer was delighted with the restored condition of her floor and amazed that it could have been made so clean.

Ceramic Tile Cleaning After



Source: Ceramic Tiled Floor Cleaning