Cleaning and Polishing Marble Floor Tiles

It’s not our local area but following a recommendation to this client by another customer we were asked to have clean and seal these Marble tiles in the hallway of a house in Farnborough.

Marble Tile Cleaning and Polishing

There was no sealer present on the Marble tiled floor so gave the floor a clean with a dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which is safe to use on stone floors, Pro-Clean is also very effective on grout so we took the opportunity to get into the grout lines as well. Once we were happy with the tile and grout we removed the soiled cleaning solution using a wet vacuum and washed the floor down with clean water. The next step was to use a set of diamond encrusted burnishing Pads fitted to a rotary buffing machine to polish the floor. The pads come in a set and are very effective at restoring the shine back on Marble, Limestone and Travertine etc.

Sealing Marble Tiles

Once the floor was polished we applied two coats of Tile Doctor Ultra-Seal which provides a high level of surface protection whilst maintaining the natural look of the Marble tiles. Once the sealer had dried we buffed the floor again using a white polishing pad.


I’m, afraid I forgot to take any photographs before we started cleaning so you can see the difference we made to the floor, needless to say however the customer was very happy with the results.


Source: Marble Tiled Hallway Cleaned and Polished

Putting the shine back on Black Slate tiles

This black slate tiled floor installed in a hallway of a client's house in East Sussex had seen its share of foot traffic and as you can see from the photograph below the tiles had dulled and grout become stained.

Cleaning black slate floor tiles

We set about scrubbing the floor with a rotary machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad together with a dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which is an effective Tile and Grout cleaner especially recommend for stone floors due to its alkaline formula. It’s also quite good at stripping sealers from floors however this wasn’t too much of any issue in this case as most of the old sealer had been worn off. The next step was to get into the grout lines with stiff brushes to give the grout a good scrub, this step has to be done by hand as the scrubbing pads can struggle to reach the grout. The next step was to remove the soiled cleaning solution with a wet vacuum and wash the floor down with clean water to remove any remaining cleaning product and neutralise the floor before the next step of sealing.

Sealing black slate floor tiles

Once the floor was dry we came back to seal it using two coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which put the shine back into the tile and will protect the tile and grout from stains going forward.



Source: Cleaning and sealing black slate tiles in East Sussex

How to Refinish a Saltillo Tile Floor

A Saltillo tile floor is made of elegant Saltillo tiles that are molded by hand. Saltillo tile is a type of terracotta originating from Mexico and can be bought in various colors ranging from hues of yellow, orange and red. A Saltillo tile is unglazed and is vulnerable to water-staining because of its porous nature. Installing a Saltillo tile floor can be a bit challenging since Saltillo tiles absorb the water from grout, thin-set mortar and grease pencils. Sealing a Saltillo tile floor is mandatory. Instead of replacing your old Saltillo tile floor with new Saltillo tiles you can refinish the Saltillo tile to bring back its beauty and save money as well. Below are the materials that you need along with the instructions on how to refinish a Saltillo tile.

What you'll need

• Vacuum Cleaner
• Floor Stain
• Vinegar and Water
• Old Towel
• Mop
• Chemical Stripper
• Sponge
• Sealant

Step 1-Prepare the Saltillo Flooring

Remove all the furniture located in your working area. Ask somebody to help you lift heavy furniture. Clean the Saltillo flooring of any dirt, dusts and debris by using a vacuum cleaner. Mix a solution of water and vinegar and apply the mixture on your Saltillo floor using a mop. Wipe the excess water using an old towel.

Step 2-Apply Chemical Stripper

The next step is to apply chemical stripper to remove the existing finish of your Saltillo tile floor. Removing the existing finish is necessary to allow the stain you will apply later to sink into the Saltillo tiles. Read the manufacturer’s instruction of your chemical stripper as to how long the chemical stripper should be applied on the Saltillo tile floor. With a damp brush, remove the layer of sealant on the Saltillo tile floor.

Step 3-Mop the Saltillo Floor

After removing the existing finish on your Saltillo tile floor, mop the floor using the same vinegar and water mixture you concocted on step one. Dry the floor with an old towel after.

Step 4-Apply the Stain

Staining your Saltillo flooring is like applying a protective layer on your Saltillo to minimize the effect of water damage, wear and tear and prevent mold and mildew infestation.

Apply the stain using a large sponge. Wipe the Saltillo floor tile with the stain in small circular motion. Cover the entire Saltillo tile floor with the stain and allow the floor to dry. Add 2 or more coatings of stain on your Saltillo floor according to your preference. Always allow each coating to completely dry before adding another coat.

Step 5-Apply Sealant

Purchase a sealant that is specially made for Saltillo tiles. Any neutral penetrating sealant or film forming sealant would do. You can choose between a matte or glossy sealant for your Saltillo tile floor. Apply the sealant on the Saltillo tile floor and allow the sealant to completely dry before allowing foot traffic.

In cleaning your Saltillo tile floor never use harsh chemicals as Saltillo tiles are fragile and prone to staining. A simple mixture of water and vinegar will do the trick. Never flood your Saltillo tile floor when cleaning. Instead, use a mop and immediately wipe the excess water with a clean towel.


Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Talking About Saltillo Tiles

How often does Saltillo Mexican tile need to be resealed?

Saltillo Mexican tile is a popular artistic touch to add to your home. This type of tile takes a bit more care and maintenance than regular tiles. Sealing is a very important part of maintaining these tiles.

• Many people like to put a neutral or light stain over the porous tiles to deepen the color and help to seal them. When you notice that water doesn't bead up on the tiles, it is time to reseal them to protect them from dirt and stains as saltillo tile is very porous.
• Generally when saltillo tile is sealed, it will have a bit of sheen or a gloss appearance. When that sheen dissappears, usually in traffic areas first, it is time to reseal them to protect them.

Source: How often does Saltillo Mexican tile need to be resealed?

Does Saltillo tile sealer change the color of Saltillo tile?

Saltillo tile sealer is used to seal and protect Saltillo tiles from damage and water penetration. There are many types of sealers and stain/sealer combinations you can use.

• Saltillo tile is very brittle and porous so it must be sealed often. Sealers can help protect from the fading of color, especially if used outdoors.
• All Saltillo tile should be sealed on a regular basis to protect it from stains.
• Saltillo tile sealer may darken the tile slightly, even when a clear sealer is used. This darkening isn't permanent and will fade as the sealer is worn off the tiles and absorbed into the tiles.

Soucre: Does Saltillo tile sealer change the color of Saltillo tile?

Is Saltillo floor tile easy to clean and maintain?

Saltillo floor tile is relatively easy to clean, but you will have to clean it often. You can mop this type of tile with a wet mop, water and a stone cleaner. However, Saltillo tile gets scuffed and dirty easily, which means that you will have to clean it frequently just to keep it looking good. You also have to remember to seal the tile every year with a penetrating stone sealer. This type of tile is very porous, so if you do not seal it, it will stain easily.

Source: Is Saltillo floor tile easy to clean and maintain?

Removing Linseed Oil from Terracotta Floor

This Terracotta floor in Leamington Spa had been sealed previously with Linseed Oil; apparently the tiler had dipped the Tile into the oil to make sure he had an even coverage. Linseed Oil is a traditional way of sealing terracotta however it makes the tiles significantly darker and over the years it becomes increasingly difficult to maintain.

Cleaning Terracotta Tiles

To remove the oil and clean the floor we used a 50/50 mix of Pro-Clean and NanoTech Ultra-Clean, the strong cleaning power of the alkaline Pro-Clean mixed with the tiny abrasive particles in the Ultra-Clean combine together to make a powerful cleaning agent. We left the solution to dwell and soak into the tile for twenty minutes giving it time to break down the oil before working it in with a rotary buffing machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad. We then scrubbed and cleaned the grout lines by hand using stiff grout brushes and picked up the soiled cleaning solution using a wet vacuum. Last step was to rinse the floor down to remove any remaining chemical and effectively neutralise the floor before sealing; to do this we used a high pressure spinner tool which is an industrial system fitted into our van that delivers high pressure hot water to a lance whilst simultaneously removing the resulting water with a secondary suction action.

Terracotta Tile Sealing

We let the floor dry overnight and returned the next day only to notice that in a number of places linseed oil had dried on the surface to form some oil spots. These had to be removed before we began the sealing process so the spots were treated with a strong sealer remover product called Remove and Go and the floor was re-cleaned using an industrial steam vacuum. We left the floor to dry again overnight and came back the third day to seal it, this time I’m pleased to say the floor was clear of the Linseed Oil and so we began to seal it using Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is a breathable colour intensifying sealer which brings out the natural colours in the tile surface as well as providing durable stain protection; Four coats were sufficient to seal the floor, it is a time consuming task however as you need to make sure the sealer has dried before applying the next coat.


This job had taken three days and I had only quoted for two however we stuck to our original quote and only charged for the two days.


Source: Removing Linseed Oil from Terracotta

5 Slate Flooring Repair Tips

Accidents, or just simple wear and tear, can stain, crack or chip even sturdy slate flooring. What is great with slate flooring, however, is that you can repair such damage with the help of tools and materials that can be bought easily at a hardware or home improvement store. When embarking in a repair project, consider these repair tips.

Tip 1 – Fill-in Cracks with Epoxy Glue

Small cracks on slate flooring tile should be filled in immediately, to prevent further damage to the tile. This repair tip, however, is not a guarantee that the tile has been put back to its damage-free state; this is just a temporary solution.

Epoxy glue comes in clear or opaque color. Color can be added to match the surface of the cracked slate tile.

Tip 2 – Repair Chips with Grout

Grout protects the tiles from chipping around the edges. Sand the jagged edge of the chipped tile. This is to create the illusion that the slate tile is naturally shaped as such, and the irregularity of its shape is just part of the stone’s unevenness in shape and texture. Buy a grout mix that matches the color of the old grout. Remove the old grout around the chipped slate (all four sides). Apply the mixed grout. The grout will fill-in the chip on the slate tile. With this procedure, you will not only repair the chip on the tile, you will also restore the grout to its pristine condition.

Tip 3 – Use Nail Polish to Color the Grout or Epoxy Glue

If you were unsatisfied with the color of the grout or epoxy glue, or that color did not blend well with the stone, you can use a nail polish to color the area. Nail polish works like a tinted varnish. It can give a glossy look, as though sealer has been applied the stone.

Select a color in tone and hue that is nearest to the stone’s natural color. Work on a small area to test if the color blends well with the slate’s color. If not, remove the nail polish with acetone. Remember to apply thin coats of nail polish to achieve good color consistency.

Tip 4 – Replace the Damaged Slab

There are times when the damage in the slate tile cannot be repaired by a simple epoxy glue or grout. When such is the case, you have to remove the damaged slab and replace it with a new one. This type of repair can also be done without the help of a professional. Careful attention, however, must be placed on the removal part: the damaged slab should not be forced off the floor, so as not to damage nearby tiles. Tip: chip the damaged tile on its center using a chisel and a hammer, to break away the slate tile into pieces.

Tip 5 – Prep the Area

Whether you plan to repair damage in your slate flooring with epoxy, grout or replace the damaged slab altogether, you have to prepare the surface for such repair activities. First, clean the area, specifically the damaged area with soap and water and allow it to dry completely. Second, strip it of sealer, paint and grease with acetone stripper. Lastly, sand the surface to ensure adhesion of epoxy, grout or mortar. 

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Remove Adhesive from a Concrete Floor

Adhesives on concrete floors add an ugly look to the floors. Removing adhesive from concrete floors is a tedious and difficult task; knowing how to remove adhesive from concrete floor can help maintain the beauty of concrete floors.

What you'll need

• Chemical adhesive remover or hot water
• Floor scraper
• Tile and glue removing tool ( Optional)
• Absorbent cloth

Step 1 – Pour Hot Water

Boil water and pour on the surface to be cleaned off the adhesive. Let the hot water remain on the surface for few minutes. This will soften the adhesive and makes it supple. Chemical adhesive removers can also be used to soften the adhesive on concrete floor. Citrus based adhesive removers are commonly used to remove adhesive from concrete floors. Wait for around 30 minutes after applying adhesive removers on concrete floors.

Step 2 – Scrape the Adhesive

Scrape the softened adhesive using flooring razor scraper and dispose it. There are also tile and glue remover tools available in the market. The tile and glue remover tool has an 8-inch long blade which scraps the surface moving back and forth. Be careful not to scrape with a sharp instrument that can scratch or gouge the floor.

Step 3- Wash the Floor

After scraping the adhesive from concrete floor, wash the surface with sufficient water.  Wipe ups any loose adhesive with an absorbent cloth.


Source: www.DoItYourself.com

16th Century Quarry Tile Cleaning and Sealing

We were contacted by a customer interested in our no obligation home survey who wanted a quotation for restoring their Quarry Tiled floor. It was an interesting property which would probably be best described as a quirky old cottage dating back to the 16th century; it was probably built to house workers from the neighbouring farm and the owner had decided to renovate the original quarry floor tiles which were in a bad way and effected by damp due to a lack of damp proof course and the tiles being laid straight onto a bed of peat. It’s quite amazing when you think that these tiles had been laid over 400 years ago and were still serviceable.



Cleaning Antique Quarry Tiles

We started by steaming off all the old Sealers, Soil and Waxes that had been applied over the years, we then applied neat Tile Doctor Pro-Clean mixed 50/50 with Nano-Tech Ultra-Clean and left it dwell on the floor for twenty minutes, the two products combined create a powerful cleaning agent which is still safe to use on tile and stone. The tiles were then scrubbed using a rotary machine fitted with a black pad to work the solution into the floor and then it was left to dwell for a further twenty minutes. The dirty solution was then removed using a wet vacuum which I can highly recommend for removing liquids from floors.

The next step was to use our Tile Spinneret tool which is fed from a heavy machine fitted into our Van. Often referred to as a truck mount system the tile spinner power rinses the floor with a high pressure warm water jet wash and at the same time sucks the soiled water back to a recovery tank in our van ready for disposal.

The customer had to make a visit abroad at this point so we left the newly cleaned floor for six weeks to allow it to fully dry out fully before we came back to seal it.

Sealing Antique Quarry Tiles

When we returned six weeks later we found a couple of areas were still showing a slight damp problem and so we dried the tiles concerned with heat guns to make sure it was bone dry. Now that the dirt had been removed from the tiles we could also see that they had lost most of their colour and so it was necessary to apply a specially formulated red tile colouring product over the whole floor which we left for an hour to soak in before using a polishing machine to make sure it was well ground in and evenly distributed across the surface of the quarry tiles. The last step was to seal the tiles to and for this we choose a product called Tile Doctor Seal and Go which I can highly recommended for sealing quarry tiles and it gives a nice low sheen effect. Six coats of sealer where needed in total which took some time to apply as you have to let the sealer dry before applying the next coat. Last step was to buff the tiles to a nice shine using our polishing machine fitted with a Buffing Pad.

This restoration was a tough assignment and certainly took some time, but I think you will agree our efforts have made a significant improvement to the floor.

Source: 16th Century Quarry Tiles Restored

Cleaning Odds and Ends

Mini-blinds

Putting off the job? Can't blame you, but here's an easier way to clean them. For general cleaning fill a spray bottle half full with water add a squirt or two of Ivory Liquid dish soap then finish filling with water. Ivory is inexpensive and makes a great all-purpose cleaner.  Spray on a lint-free towel. Turn the slats toward you and wipe down going easy so you don't bend the slats. Reverse the slats, walk around behind the blinds and wipe once more. It only takes few minutes, so clean one set every time you dust to avoid that miserable buildup.

If your blinds have reached the Cape of No Hope, removal becomes necessary. Pull up the tabs on each end and slide the blinds out. If the blind refuses to slide out, heat with a hair dryer for a few minutes. The heat expands the metal and they pull right out. 

Work early in the morning or later in the evening to avoid water-spotting problems. Hammer two nails into the side of your home and hang the blinds from the nails. Don't worry, it only takes a year for your neighbors to regain their composure from the laughter.

Spray the blinds with a foaming bathroom cleaner (Dow is a good one). Spray the pull cords with shaving cream. When the dirt has left the scene of the grime flip the blind over, reverse the slats and spray again. Wipe with a clean very damp sponge and dry on a large bath towel.

Pleated Cloth Shades

These shades present many cleaning problems. Never use a cleaner of any kind on day-night shades. They stain easily. Vacuum often to prevent dirt from taking control. Be sure to clean the bristles of your vacuum attachment before you vacuum.

Hardware stores carry a dry sponge you'll find in the wallboard section. Use the sponge dry and wipe over the surface. The micro fiber towels do a good job as well. Dampen with water and wring out all the excess moisture. Quickly wipe over the blinds. Do not get excess moisture on them. Store the shades in a closed position whenever possible to keep the pleats well defined.

Wood Window Shades

Vacuum regularly. To clean, remove them laying them on a towel on a linoleum floor. Scrub with a soft nylon brush dipped in Ivory and water. 

Popcorn, Textured Ceilings and Wood Beams

Slip a lint roller replacement tube over a paint roller holder. Attach to a handle and roll the ceiling, removing dust and cobwebs without smearing the cobwebs everywhere.

Stone Fireplace Fronts

They are so warm and cozy in the winter and so miserable to clean in the spring. Foaming bathroom cleaner does a wonderful job on soot, but first saturate the bricks with an all-purpose cleaner and allow to soak a few minutes.

Thoroughly spray the bricks with the tub cleaner. Scrub with a stiff bristle brush dipped in Ivory and water. Reapply the bath cleaner as needed. If the soot refuses to budge, resort to TSP (trisodium phosphate) found in hardware stores. It is toxic and not highly recommended, but it cleans bricks. Keep the room well ventilated, wear gloves and a mask, protect your skin carpet and any furniture close by.

Chandeliers

A chandelier at the top of a two-story entry can be the dickens to clean. Two choices: 1. Ignore it. 2. Drag out the ladder and go to work. Here's an easy way: Find a lightweight cotton sock - not one from your last fishing trip - place it over a thin feather duster and attach to an extension handle. Spray the sock with window cleaner and it does a fairly good job. A stepladder is necessary though, for a thorough cleaning.

To clean the glass baubles, place a terry towel in the bottom of a sink, partially fill with water adding some automatic dishwashing detergent and rubbing alcohol. Remove the baubles from the chandelier, let them soak and dry.

Sprays are available that clean without removing the baubles if used frequently. Protect your furniture and carpet by laying down plastic, then newspaper. You can mix your own spray by partially filling a 32 oz spray bottle with water, add one tablespoon of automatic dish washing detergent, ¼ cup rubbing alcohol and 1/3 cup vinegar.. Finish filling the bottle with water. This is a wonderful window cleaner too.

Outdoor Furniture

Outdoor furniture generally pleads for cleaning at the first sign of spring. Remember always test an inconspicuous spot before using a new cleaner.

Mix a bucket (make sure the bucket is clean) with liquid dish soap, some Borax and ½ cup hydrogen peroxide per gallon of water. Saturate the furniture thoroughly and allow to set 15 minutes. Scrub with a nylon scrub brush and rinse. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's guidelines for cleaning. Some fabrics will not tolerate peroxide.

If any of the metal has rusted, first try using a rust remover found in automotive stores. If the rust refuses to budge, use a #800 sand paper to sand the metal and repaint.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Types of Resilient Flooring

Resilient flooring is a classification of floors with qualities that make it 'bounce back.' Typically, a resilient floor will resist stains and water and is comfortable to stand on for long periods of time. Resilient floors are often seen in institutional structures such as schools and hospitals.

Rubber

The most expensive type of resilient flooring is rubber. However, all rubber floors are black, and so it is used in limited applications. Manufacturers of rubber floors will often provide the option of lock-in pieces to provide the consumer optional temporary placement.

Cork

A comparable material to rubber is cork. With a variety of colors and patterns, cork is a great option for homeowners.

Vinyl or Linoleum

The most common materials used for resilient flooring are vinyl or linoleum. Both products come in a variety of colors, patterns and sizes. Linoleum, a natural option made of linseed oil ('lin'-oleum), tree resin, cork dust and pigments, comes in sheets and tiles. Vinyl floors are very versatile and available in a wide range of applications. A popular vinyl option is the plank, which simulates expensive hardwood floors.

Sometimes, in a workplace, you will see a combination of flooring. For example, in a hair salon, while the floor is a resilient vinyl or linoleum, the workstations usually have additional padding for the hairdressers provided by areas of rubber resilient flooring mats laid on top.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Cleaning Linoleum and Vinyl Floors

Proper care of your floor prevents damage, extends its life and keeps it looking new for years. How do you properly care for your flooring?

If you enjoy going barefoot or even if you don't, kick your shoes off at the door. Why remove your shoes? If you have a rough board that needs smoothing you grab a sheet of sandpaper for the job. Guess what's on the bottom of your shoes?  Sand and dirt grind away at the surface causing them an early death.

A closer look at the bottoms of those shoes and you'll find oil, dirt and heaven only knows how many tidbits of left over dog deposits. Small wonder why your floor stubbornly refuses to come clean.  Do wear slippers or socks inside. The oil from the bottom of your feet also dirties the carpet.

Always vacuum or dust hard floor surfaces before mopping.
Linoleum floors generally require only warm water for cleaning. Most detergents won't rinse clean leaving behind a sticky residue. That residue becomes a magnet, attracting dirt off the bottom of your shoes. It builds up, deteriorating the sealant and leaving you with the hard job of stripping and waxing.

If you find your floor requires a cleanser, use Ivory Liquid dish soap. Fill your sink with suds, mop away then rinse with a clean towel. Ivory rinses clean so the sticky buildup never causes problems. Other detergents can be too harsh for the floor so stick to Ivory. Mix Ivory in a spray bottle of water as a floor prespray or all-purpose cleaner. It's inexpensive and quite a good cleaner.

Some linoleum floors have grooves so deep you can sink a submarine. Grab a nylon bristle brush other brushes might scratch fill your sink with warm water add a good squirt or two of Ivory dish soap and scrub the floor. Rinse with a clean towel. Your floor needs this deep cleaning only twice a year.

Black heel marks? Not a pretty sight. Spray a little WD40 on a towel, lightly rub and they disappear without scrubbing. Rinse thoroughly with sudsy water or the floor might be slick.

If your floors still don't pass the white glove test, it may be time to strip and wax. Open the windows, turn on the fan, put on some marimba music and prepare for a good workout.

Use straight ammonia and a towel. Pour the ammonia in one area and spread around with a dishtowel. Let that set 15 to 30 minutes. After 15 minutes treat the next area. Go back to the first spot and scrub with a nylon brush. Repeat until you finish the floor. Mop up the ammonia with a clean, damp terry towel. Then rinse with 1/2 cup of vinegar per gallon of water. The vinegar removes any lingering ammonia.

Good floor wax can be found at janitorial supply stores. You pay more, but the finish lasts a long time without yellowing. Apply the wax with a clean dishtowel. Let the first coat dry several hours, then apply a second coat. Do not machine wash a towel you have used to apply wax. The wax sticks to the side of the washer and can damage future loads of clothing.



Source: www.DoItYourself.com